EYCK VAN LIKE EATING OMG! Smakeleyck! OCTOBER JULY APRIL JANUARY

NOVEMBER AUGUST MAY FEBRUARY

DECEMBER SEPTEMBER JUNE MARCH EDITOR PUBLISHER (De Foodarcheoloog),AnneliesVan Wittenberghe FOODSTYLING City ofGhent, PuurGentandTeam Van Eyck FemkeVandevelde (Gunpowder&Smoke)

09 3236180–[email protected] PHOTOGRAPHY MiekeHullebroeck,GeneralManager, MINIATURES ANDTEXT Stadhuis, Botermarkt1,9000Ghent Thanks toallenthusiastic partners: RESEARCH MiekeGoffinandSuzan Teirlinck. Cultuur Gent,December2019. ILLUSTRATIONS A projectandpublicationby JeroenVan Vaerenbergh Foodphoto-LisaValcke ErikVerroken ThysDesmet DESIGN COLOPHON Pjotr

Smakeleyck!

Photo © Frederik van Allemeersch JANUARY 6 Dried sausage with walnuts and fennel 7 Homemade white sausage

FEBRUARY Dear reader, 10 Colourful pancakes 11 Liège waffles

MARCH 14 White bean hummus 15 Rice pudding with almond milk

hen Cultuur Gent asked me to take focus on seasonal products that still play APRIL W care of the culinary aspect of the an important role today. This way we want 18 Brittle aperitif Van Eyck project as an ambassador, to make sure that this culinary heritage biscuits with cheese I obviously felt flattered. I was very keen to is preserved and passed on to the 19 Quiche contribute to the homage paid by the City of next generations. MAY Ghent to Jan van Eyck in 2020. His legacy 22 North Sea remains inextricably linked to Ghent and is To share this wealth of information with you, fish cooked in even now very much alive. we have opted for this brochure. Each month buttermilk features an article about Ghent (Greetings 23 Bycatch stew Yet I must admit that I knew very little about from Ghent), a historical article (Tasty this Flemish master or about his oeuvre when Souvenir) and a culinary article (Dinner is JUNE starting this project. That changed when served). This fascinating story full of culinary 26 Old Ghent herb rub I came into contact with food archaeologist and historical facts is supplemented every for veal chop Jeroen Van Vaerenbergh and Annelies Van month with two seasonal recipes which I hope 27 Rich herb sauce Wittenberghe, a historian with a strong will inspire you to get creative.3 My selection culinary passion. They taught me to take was determined by historical authenticity (the JULY 30 Homemade a fresh look at the Ghent Altarpiece. basic ingredients of my recipes were already watercress syrup used at the time) and present-day application, 31 Berry verjuice Thanks to their fieldwork and research1, so that my recipes find a broad public: from lemonade I found out more about the meaning of this local shopkeepers and artisans (butchers, iconic painting. For instance, the buildings baker, chocolatiers and baristas) to catering AUGUST depicted in the painting refer to the greatness businesses, foodies, chefs and tourists who 34 Fresh maslin bread of Ghent. I find it absolutely fascinating that want to (re)discover Ghent as a historical and 35 Filled sandwich Ghent was the second largest city north of contemporary food capital. the Alps – after Paris – in the 15th century. And SEPTEMBER 38 Fruit and honey thanks to Jan Van Eyck, Ghent also became one marmalade of the world’s most prominent cultural cities. 39 Apple and pear The 75 plants, herbs, fruits and ingredients Taste, celebrate purée with saffron included in his painting demonstrate that and rosemary he was an artist with an eye for detail. & experience! OCTOBER With the knowledge of Jeroen and Annelies Olly Ceulenaere 42 Shellfish stew with in mind, I managed to follow in the footsteps Chef of restaurant Publiek verjuice and parsley of the 15th-century local residents and analyse 43 Oysters au gratin not only their eating habits but also their taste with saffron butter patterns. The more information I perused, 1 The manuscripts, old documents from the city sauce the more I realised that the medieval eating archives and other sources we consulted are NOVEMBER culture is in fact very similar to our present-day detailed in the bibliography at the end. 46 Cockentrice stew eating culture. A few examples: nose to tail 2 The depiction of a date palm in the Ghent 47 Pulled goose eating was already an everyday phenomenon Altarpiece referred to the wealth of patron Joos with ginger at that time, as were sustainable preparation Vijd rather than to an ingredient. techniques (salting and fermentation), food 3 Old cookery books never specify quantities or DECEMBER products harvested in the wild and regional preparation times. To increase the feasibility 50 Beef stew and seasonal products. I also discovered that of our dishes we have updated the recipes with with gingerbread food often had a symbolic function2 as well, specific instructions and have also included 51 French toast which is why Jeroen, Annelies and I decided to some practical tips. with gingerbread Sausages: from poor man’s food JANUARY to heartwarming comfort food

DINNER IS SERVED Livestock used to be Sausages as a social binder butchered in the coldest months to lay in supplies owadays, sausages brawn? Sausages were not the GREETINGS N continue to be a only food products made from FROM GHENT for the winter. Parts of popular food, for leftover meat. Other examples the animal that could instance you can order dried include Ghent uufflakke made The art not be preserved by sausages to go with a beer in from pig’s trotters, tails and curing, drying, pickling, Belgian cafés, or order a garlic tongues, or meat jellies such of smoking or salting were sausage in a chip shop or end as potjesvlees – a specialty a winter barbecue with grilled from the Westhoek area first butchering processed immediately blood sausages. What is mentioned in Le Viandier de after slaughter. Although striking, however, is that late Taillevent, one of the principal n the city, slaughter traditionally medieval blood puddings cookery books from the I slaughtering began in November in the orboudins à la flamande Middle Ages. To prepare this animals was the countryside, the pots and contained spices and raisins. dish, veal feet are cooked in privilege of butchers and Apples were even filled with wine and mixed with pork, took place in small private spits of the Ghentians this sweet-and-sour mixture. chicken and rabbit. This abattoirs. Meat was sold in were lavishly filled with Blood pudding with apple mixture is then seasoned with a butchers’ hall by chartered meat at the start of the sauce has always been a ginger, saffron and vinegar. vendors. In the Middle new year. popular dish in Flanders. Ages, Ghent had a market What about head cheese or hall called Groot Vleeshuis (Great Butchers’ Hall) where the sale of meat was centralised to guarantee freshness, hygiene and quality. Sixteen tripe shops were built adjacent to the south- east façade in 1542. These little shops exclusively sold offal, suet and other by- In the Middle Ages, people did not let any part products. DID YOU KNOW? of a slaughtered animal go to waste. Children inflated pig bladders and used them as balloons or for water games. Adults used male pigs’ genitals as clubs or to grease kitchen utensils. This brings a whole 4 new meaning to nose to tail eating. TASTY SOUVENIR

fat cover against How were the cold blood sausages prepared?

Pig’s blood was 1 collected and stirred to prevent t made sense to clotting. I slaughter livestock primarily in the early Intestines winter months: fattened 2 were cleaned. animals did not require further feeding during the The lungs, lean months ahead, and 3 gullet, heart and thanks to the low trimmings from temperatures, the meat could the head were first be preserved more easily. In boiled and then the 15th century, townspeople finely minced. preferred veal, but mutton and pork were more often on Bread or boiled the menu, even among the 4 cereals (e.g. barley less well-off. For them, or buckwheat) nutritious sausages were were mixed with more than welcome during the blood and the coldest months of the then added to the year. minced offal, which was seasoned with various herbs. New York, Pierpont Morgan Library (PML), Ms. M. 399 (Da Costa Getijdenboek), f. 13v° The cleaned 5 intestines were Ghent-born illuminator Simon Bening (ca. 1483–1561) filled by means of a painted this miniature circa 1515 for the calendar of a book funnel. of hours owned by Portuguese diplomat Alvaro da Costa. It depicts a wonderful hilly and snowy winter landscape. Finally, the In the background, we see a snow-covered hill with 6 sausages were clumps of bare trees and two large inns in the middle. boiled. The In the first inn, the guests are looking out of the window cooking liquid to the scene in the foreground, where a pig is being was sometimes slaughtered. consumed as sausage soup. 5 10 to 15 pcs. Dried » 500 g pork belly » 500 g pork shoulder sausage » 75 g fresh walnuts with (coarsely chopped) walnuts » 15 g salt and fennel » 2 g cane sugar » 1.5 g white pepper » 0.5 g mace » 2,2 g fennel seed (toasted) » 2 rolls of pig intestines » Utensils: mincer

Cut the pork in small pieces and mix the meat with the toasted fennel seed. Put the mixture in the mincer and add the other spices.

Let the mixture rest for an hour in the fridge and then put it in the mincer once again.

Add the coarsely chopped walnuts.

Soak the pig intestines in salted water for one night and then rinse thoroughly.

Fill the intestines carefully with the mixture.

Let the sausage dry in a well ventilated and cool place.

Turn the sausage every 2 hours so it dries evenly.

6 20 to 25 pcs. » 250 g veal » 200 g lean pork » 250 g jowl bacon Homemade » 100 g belly bacon white » 200 ml raw milk sausage » 15 g salt » 2 g pepper » 1 g mace » 2 g marjoram (dried) » 20 g shallot (chopped) » 1 egg » 75 g white bread (without crust) » 2 rolls of pig intestines » Utensils: mincer

Cut the meat in small pieces and put it in the mincer.

Crumble the bread and mix with the milk, egg, shallot and herbs. Make sure you do not heat the mixture while mixing.

Soak the pig intestines in salted water for one night and then rinse thoroughly.

Fill the intestines carefully with the mixture and divide into portions by turning.

Poach the sausages for about 20 minutes in water at a tem- perature of 75°C. Take the sausages out of the water and shock them in ice water.

7 Pancakes and waffles on FEBRUARY the festive menu

DINNER IS SERVED Aristocratic From sweet to spicy waffles ecipes for pancakes touch. Recipes in which wine There was nothing the R have been around for or colourants were added to The ruling class also adored contemporaries of centuries. A 13th- the dough make it clear that waffles. This explains why the Van Eyck brothers century Andalusian cookery both pancakes and waffles the coat of arms of the book mentions pancakes were synonymous with Dukes of Burgundy features enjoyed more than a made from chickpea and rice celebration. waffle irons used to make feast. When Candlemas flour, served with honey. galettes, oublies and even was celebrated on Spicy pancakes were also mastels. 2 February, it was popular at the time. customary to bring Said cookery book contains a recipe for aubergine pancakes candles to church, with coriander and cinnamon. where they were Baking pancakes between blessed, and to eat two heated metal plates is pancakes. This was thought to go back at least followed by waffles equally far in time. These flat and crisp wafers were called which were baked oublies in the late Middle during Carnival. These Ages. To prepare a salty festivities took place version, medieval cookery before the beginning of books advised to melt a Lent. slice of cheese between two sheets of dough or add grated cheese to the waffle mix. Adventurous gourmets will certainly appreciate this extra

Credit for this image: see https://erfgoe- dinzicht. be/10-verha- That sweet pancakes date back to len/265-winterfees- DID YOU KNOW? antiquity? Greek physician Galen (129–199) ten-en-gebak described how wheat-flour pancakes were cooked in olive oil and sea salt. Honey was not only added to the dough, the pancakes were also drenched 8 in honey when served. TASTY SOUVENIR

Golden coloured pancakes

andlemas or the Feast of the C Presentation has been associated with the preparation of pancakes since time immemorial. This Christian Holy Day, celebrated on 2 February, commem­ orates the presentation of Jesus at the Temple, and pancakes have been traditionally served on this occasion for many centuries. Perhaps the pancakes’ golden colour reminded people of the sun and thus of the return of spring. In addition, Candlemas was the day when farm hands could change employment in the Middle Ages. It is not surprising that this was celebrated with pancakes made from eggs, flour, milk and butter. Pancakes have also been associated with Shrove Tuesday or Pancake Tuesday, the day preceding Ash Wednesday (the first day of Lent). It is the last day of Carnival and used to be the last opportunity for common people to eat well. The last eggs, flour, milk and butter were then used for baking pancakes or waffles. Celebrations and festivities were inextricably linked with Hans Francken, Winter still life with waffles, pancakes and Christmas bread, Royal waffle consumption, and it became Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium, Inventory N° 3825 (wood panel, 58 x 70.5 cm). tradition that waffles were won in games of dice or cards. Especially in cities, waffles Frans Francken the Younger (1581-1624) is a not-so-well-known painter from were a popular food throughout the year as Antwerp. In this still life, he painted all sorts of delicacies people used to an economical alternative to gingerbread, enjoy during the winter months: French toast, decorative confectionery, and street food vendors were very adept at a bowl of syrup or honey and a large Christmas bread. But waffles and selling them hot or cold. pancakes are at the centre of the painting.

9 ± 15 pcs. » 800 ml milk » 200 ml beet juice » herbal juice or turmeric milk » 500 g flour Coloured » 1 teaspoon baking powder pancakes » 4 eggs » 30 g butter (molten) » pinch of salt and pepper

Mix all ingredients and

Whisk in a bowl.

Pass through a fine sieve.

Cook the pancakes until golden brown in a frying pan.

You can finish in all sorts of manners: hearty oven-baked pancakes can be filled with cheese and ham, or some finely cut pieces can be used as a garnish in soups or salads.

10 ± 25 pc. » 300 g pearl sugar » 30 g raisins » 50 g fresh yeast » 480 g flour Liège » 15 g cinnamon powder waffles » 150 g lukewarm buttermilk » 70 g honey » 2 eggs » 215 g salted butter » Utensils: food processor and waffle iron

Dissolve the yeast and honey in the lukewarm buttermilk.

Add the flour, cinnamon powder and eggs, and mix until the dough sticks to the dough hook.

Loosen the dough and knead.

Roll out the butter and rub the dough with it to prevent it from drying out.

Allow the dough to rise for 30 minutes.

Add the pearl sugar and rai- sins and mix thoroughly.

Allow the dough to rise once again for 30 to 45 minutes.

Divide into small balls weigh- ing 60 g.

Bake the Liége waffles until golden brown in a hot waffle iron.

11 Hard times MARCH

GREETINGS FROM GHENT Nuts and dried fruit galore

The time of feasting was n early March, the with periods of hardship. over during Lent. After I counters at the Except for the patrician the Carnival celebrations butchers’ hall were families, most townspeople emptied. Dairy products were had to be sparing with their of February, a period no longer sold, either. Vendors food supplies and budget. In The Table of fasting and penance were absent from Korenmarkt addition, Lent was the ideal of the Holy arrived. 15th-century and Vrijdagmarkt, the two period for the rich to provide people abstained from marketplaces where dairy charity to the poor. The Table Ghost of St meat as well as animal products were sold. As of the Holy Ghost or Mensa James business was slow in March, Spiritus Sancti, for instance, fat, eggs and cheese in these vendors were authorised was organised at the level of This poor-relief March. Since only dry by the city authorities to sell the parishes from the second institution was probably goods were still in store, locally produced or imported half of the 13th century governed by the leading medieval people had to nuts and dried fruit, much to onwards. This involved giving Ghent patrician families rely on their creativity to the displeasure of local bread, beverages, clothing, in the 15th century. It greengrocers. This affordable shoes, fuel, money or herring not only had its own come up with palatable and nutritious food provided to the poor. Fish was the only altar but also a chapel alternatives. the inhabitants of Ghent with animal product whose in St James’ church and the necessary energy. consumption was allowed managed the goods or Although this sober diet may during Lent. foodstuffs it received from seem Spartan to us, most Salt herring was very popular donations. By analogy Ghentians were used to coping since it was inexpensive. with the Sacred Host, the poor were given white bread for instance, which was more expensive and prestigious than regular brown bread. Lent begins on Ash Wednesday and ends on However, the Table of the Easter Sunday, the holiday commemorating Holy Ghost of St James the resurrection of Christ from the dead. expected something in This practice originated from early medieval return for their charity: figs before monastic rules which were aimed at recipients were supposed abstinence, sobriety and moderation. Figs to pray for the salvation TASTY TASTY Easter were an especially popular food in the period of the benefactor’s soul. SOUVENIR before Easter. The 14th-century cookery book Viandier de Taillevent mentions a kind of energy 12 bar made from figs and raisins. Medieval Lent food the rule of three

Limit your food intake to 1 one meal a day, preferably at noon.

Abstain from meat or 2 other animal products. For instance, substitute butter with oil.

Prepare your meal with the 3 following basic ingredients: fish, bread, pastries, porridge (without milk), carrots and other root crops, onions, cabbage, (preserved) fruit, dried legumes (lintels, peas DINNER IS SERVED and beans), fermented vegetables, nuts (almonds) Vegan diet and dried fruit (figs and raisins). oodstuffs such as This common dish was F hazelnuts and often combined with fish. almonds proved to be Despite their status as a very useful during Lent. luxury ingredient, almonds Exotic nuts were used in the are frequently mentioned in production of various foods, 14th-century recipes because such as marzipan. As regular medieval cookery books dairy products were not were aimed at a wealthy allowed during Lent, the audience. Nevertheless, the upper classes used almond rules of Lent also applied to milk as a substitute. This the rich. Their fascination is produced by simmering with ‘forbidden’ products ground almonds in water and such as eggs grew so much sieving the mixture. Almond that cookery book authors milk can be perfectly used in explicitly advised them to coffee or pudding. One of the sculpt eggs from marzipan. most popular medieval recipes One case is known of almond is blancmange or whitedish, a paste being shaped into a kind of rice pudding flavoured pig’s ear. with almonds. Paris, Bibliothèque nationale de France (BNF), Ms. latin 9333 (Tacuinum Sanitatis), f. 54r Paris, Bibliothèque nationale de France (BNF), Ms. latin 9333 (Tacuinum

Tacuinum Sanitatis is a medieval medical handbook based on an Arab treatise. It was translated into Latin in mid-thirteenth-century Italy. This miniature comes from Lent was not limited to the a manuscript originating in the mid-fifteenth-century DID YOU KNOW? Rhineland. It represents a grocer’s shop. Jars and pots 40 days preceding Easter. containing spices and herbs are displayed on the shelves Over the centuries, Wednes­ and counter. Grocers also sold various dried fruits: apricots, days, Fridays and the weeks before figs and raisins. Christmas were also official periods of fasting. Talk about a hard-knock life! 13 » 2 kg white beans (or navy beans) » 1 carrot White » 2 stalks of blanched celery bean » 1 leek hummus » 1 onion » 250 g smoked bacon » 1 clove » 5 cloves of garlic » 1 bouquet garni (rosemary, savory, parsley and bay leaf)

Soak the beans in a generous amount of cold water for 24 to 48 hours and regularly change the water.

Bring the beans to the boil in a generous amount of salted water and regularly skim off any impurities.

Add the bouquet garni when the boiling point has been reached, reduce the heat and boil the beans until they are done (this takes about 1 hour).

Remove the bouquet garni and drain. Put some of the cooking liquid to the side.

Mix the beans with the cook- ing liquid until you have a smooth consistency.

Finish with rapeseed oil, lem- on, salt and pepper to season the hummus.

14 » 1 l almond milk Rice » 35 g almond liquor pudding » 175 g sticky rice with » 90 g honey almond » pinch of salt milk » 1/2 teaspoon saffron powder » 2 green cardamom pods

Rinse the rice and soak for 30 minutes in cold water.

Drain and heat the almond milk with honey, salt and spices.

Let the rice cook gently (for 30 to 45 minutes) and stir gently.

Allow to cool down, add almond liquor and divide into portions.

Finish with toasted almond flakes, fresh fruit, dried fruit, etc.

15 The secret APRIL of a lavish meal: dairy

GREETINGS FROM GHENT Food security Jan van Eyck’s fter Lent, the Ghent Dairy became scarce as a Washed contemporaries rejoiced A dairy vendors could result. Philip the Good, Duke when spring was in the once again get to work of Burgundy (1396-1467), and worked at the marketplaces of banned the export of cheese, Salt was added to butter air. After Easter, the Korenmarkt and Vrijdagmarkt. butter and other dairy (and cheese) to preserve consumption of meat, They sold locally produced as products to ensure food it. Salted butter could be cheese, butter and eggs well as imported cheese, eggs security in the crisis year 1432. stored for months in a was again allowed. The and butter. Due to severe The city authorities extended cellar. Before use, butter inhabitants of Ghent winters, heavy rainfall and hot this ban to the export of oxen, had to be washed and summers, growing conditions cows, sheep, pigs and other worked to reduce the salt owed their lavish meals were not favourable in the livestock. content drastically. to the lush pastures first half of the 15th century. where cattle and sheep grazed. April heralded the end of a period of hardship.

s the days are growing longer, chickens and geese lay A more eggs. It is no wonder therefore that Easter was linked to the egg, a symbol of fertility. It symbolised the victory of life (spring) over death (winter). In early spring, livestock was turned out to pasture and could graze the lush, nutritious grass. The low-quality milk the cows produced when Fertile fed on hay was now replaced by rich, high-quality milk. It was not customary to drink milk in the late medieval cities because TASTY TASTY season transporting milk over bumpy roads meant that the milk was SOUVENIR no longer fresh when it reached the marketplace. Only children, the elderly and the sick sometimes had a cup of fresh milk. Milk was turned into butter and cheese so as to preserve it for a longer period of time. The first cheeses of the year were sufficiently matured by May.

16 What medieval ingredients can be added for colouring a dish?

GREEN Parsley, chives, tarragon, chervil and violets

BLACK Walnut shells

YELLOW Saffron and common marigold

RED Sunflower, alkanet and beet juice

PURPLE Mulberry and other berries

DINNER IS SERVED The medieval basis of our dairy products

ate medieval recipes even mentions cooking eggs L often mention cheese, on the spit. First the eggs milk, butter and eggs. were blown out, coloured and Cookery books from that mixed with bacon and period already describe parsley. Then the egg shells quiches with cheese and were filled with the mixture green herbs, biscuits made and the egg was cooked on from milk or cheese and the spit. Quiche is still a poached eggs served in all popular dish today and colours of the rainbow. One cheese crackers continue to recipe from a late-15th- be eaten as a snack. century German cookery book

The Leiebrug DID YOU KNOW? New York, Pierpont Morgan Library (PML), bridge connecting Ms. M. 399 (Da Costa Getijdenboek), f. 5v. Zuivelbrugstraat to Meerseniersstraat was Ghent-born illuminator Simon Bening (ca. 1483–1561) painted this miniature circa 1515 for the calendar of a book called Suvelbrug (Dairy of hours owned by Portuguese diplomat Alvaro da Costa. Bridge) after 1476 because it The blossoming trees indicate that it is spring. In early April, led to Vrijdagmarkt, where shepherds (one of them carrying a lamb) turn their flock out to pasture. A billygoat is also leaving the barn. A cow is milked dairy products were sold. and a woman is churning butter in the background.

17 ± 75 pcs. » 240 g flour Brittle » 250 g soft butter aperitif » 40 g potato starch » 60 g powdered sugar biscuits » 160 g hard cheese with cheese » 10 g boiled egg yolk » 3 g salt » Utensils: Round biscuit cutter

Knead all ingredients by hand until you get a smooth dough.

Roll out the dough to 0.5 cm thickness.

Leave to set in the refrigera- tor for at least 6 hours.

Cut out the biscuit dough with a round biscuit cutter.

Bake in a preheated oven at 160°C for 10 to 14 minutes.

Allow to cool down on a grid.

18 Basic recipe » sufficient shortcrust for one person pastry or puff pastry to cover the baking tin » 1 dl milk p.p. » 1 dl cream p.p. Quiche » 2 eggs p.p. » pinch of salt and pepper » 30 g ripened cheese or sharp sheep’s cheese p.p. » 10 g green herbs: chervil, dill, celery, purslane, chard, etc. p.p.

Preheat the oven to 200°C.

Cover a greased baking tin with the dough, trim the edges and prick the bottom with a fork.

Grate the cheese and spread the mixture over the bottom.

Whip the cream with the milk and eggs. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the filling with the egg mixture.

Bake the quiche in the oven for 35 to 40 minutes until golden brown.

Garnish with a generous amount of green herbs and serve.

Serve with a watercress, common marigold and caper salad.

19 MAY Fish on the menu

GREETINGS FROM GHENT De Braemmolen fishpond While we now n 1297, a watermill was townspeople had to observe How do you consume farmed fish I built next to weekly fasting days and or overexploited fish Braemgaten lock on therefore required affordable recognise a Brabantdam in Ghent. One of proteins in the form of fish. species imported from the principal functions of the Flemish fishermen heading shad? abroad, people mostly Braemmolen watermill was into the North Sea provided Twait shad and allis shad ate locally caught fish the defence of the city, since it the necessary supply of are herring-type fishes in the Middle Ages. It was able to inundate the seafood to the Ghent fish that live in the sea but was also common to surrounding fields. In market, nowadays known as swim up rivers to spawn addition, the milling of grain Groentenmarkt (Vegetable in spring. Shad is often eat smaller fish, fresh- caused fine flour dust to end Market). Marine fish was taken from the sea as water fish and bycatch. up in the water. This transported over navigable bycatch when fishing In addition, the North concentration of food canals underneath Vleeshuis for commercially more Sea was connected to attracted a great deal of fish. (Great Butchers’ Hall). Even interesting species. Twait local rivers and streams The townspeople noticed this more than fresh fish, shad and allis shad are and tried to catch the fish so preserved fish such as now protected species without any obstruction, that they could make a stockfish and salted herring and may no longer be which enabled certain delicious stew. As a result, the was sold on the fish market. caught for consumption. fish species such as twait local fish stocks in the often The supply of fish fluctuated, shad and allis shad to polluted waters of the 15th- depending on the season, the swim upstream to spawn. century city were soon weather and even piracy. overexploited. Medieval This fish was the basis for waterzooi, a kind of stew originating in Ghent.

A research project is currently DID YOU KNOW? conducted by AquaErf to market burbot as a sustainably and locally farmed fish 20 destined for consumption. TASTY SOUVENIR

Fresh­ water fish or marine fish

DINNER IS SERVED Sustainable fish soup n comparison with present-day common pastries containing pike, cod and In the month of May, the Van Eyck I cookery books, it is remarkable that sea bass to luxurious pancakes with caviar brothers would often have eaten medieval cookery books contain and fish sausage. Waterzooi (stew) made fish. Whether it had been caught considerably more recipes for freshwater from local bycatch was a very popular dish in rivers or in the sea depended fish than for marine fish. In the 15th century, since it was a one-pot meal that offered a on the available budget. Smaller fish was used creatively in all possible forms virtually endless variety of fish species from the coastal waters and combinations: recipes ranged from combinations. and estuaries such as sprat, anchovy, smelt and flounder were inexpensive. Larger species such as halibut and cod were caught in northern seas and were more prestigious. Freshwater species like eel, pike, burbot, perch and minnow were Circa 1390-1400, an available throughout the year.

illuminator from the studio Large and high-quality marine fish of the Italian Giovanni and herring were mostly supplied in de Grassi painted the summer when the sea was calm. miniatures of the Tacuinum Smaller fish could also be caught in Sanitatis, a medieval winter. Yet local fish soup such as medical handbook. The waterzooi was traditionally made book recommended exclusively with freshwater species eating fresh river fish. such as burbot (a cod-like fish). As The miniature depicts watercourses were increasingly a fisherman in a boat polluted with household and cornering fish while industrial waste, townspeople are another fisherman is believed to have been forced to catching them in his net. replace fish by chicken over time. In the background we see Fact or fiction? What is certain is an egret, the fishermen’s that the inhabitants of Ghent had competitor, and a barrel lots of fish types to choose from. with water in which the fish caught are kept alive for some time.

21 Ms. 2644 (Tacuinum Sanitatis), f. 82r. Foto: Universiteit Gent, H.0788, Facsimile-uitgave. Sanitatis), f. 82r. Ms. 2644 (Tacuinum Wenen, Österreichische Nationalbibliothek (ÖNB), Codex Vindobonensis, Series Nova, Wenen, serves 4 » 2 kg North Sea fish (not cleaned) (depending on the season or catch): North megrim, flounder, haddock, Sea fish whiting, brill, small sea cooked in bass, ray, etc. buttermilk » 60 g coarse salt » 1.4 l buttermilk » 20 g anise seed » 200 g celery (finely chopped) » 200 g fennel (finely chopped) » 4 slices of bread » salted butter for spreading

Clean the fish or ask your fishmonger to clean it for you. Begin by scaling the fish and then remove the entrails.

Salt the fish for about 30 minutes. Use coarse salt.

Rinse off the salt, put the fish in a pot and cover in buttermilk.

Add the anise seed and the chopped vegetables.

Leave in the refrigerator overnight.

Put the fish in a pot on a low heat and bring to a temperature just below the boiling point.

Take the fish from the cooking liquid and check whether it is done.

Serve with bread and salted butter; the perfect snack then and today.

You can finish in all sorts of manners: pure as a stew or in a hearty pancake with spinach and nut cream. In addition, you can supplement the dish with fresh herbs, chopped eggs, fish eggs, verjuice, nuts, 22 shellfish, shrimps, etc. serves 4 » 2 kg North Sea fish (not cleaned) (depending on the season or catch): flounder, hake, lesser spotted dogfish, horse mackerel, ling, pollack, tub gurnard, Bycatch megrim, haddock, pouting, stew goatfish, herring, etc. » 400 g seasonal vegetables: e.g. carrot, celery, asparagus, cauliflower, legumes, leek, early potatoes » 2 dl white wine » 6 dl stock » 6 dl water » green herbs as desired for garnishing. » Optionally, the stew can be bound at the end with 2 eggs and 4 dl cream

Select local fish for this classic Ghent dish.

Clean the fish or ask your fishmonger to clean it for you. Begin by scaling the fish and then remove the entrails. Cut the fish in pieces (head/tail/belly/fillet) so that all pieces can be used for this stew.

Clean the vegetables and chop them finely. Chop the pieces of fish into smaller bits.

Put the vegetables, fish, white wine and stock in a casserole, add 6 dl water and gently cook for 7 minutes.

23 The magic JUNE of a flowering herb garden

GREETINGS FROM GHENT Lush herbs and berries he Ghent Altarpiece their medicinal properties. gardens had more to offer June was sometimes T is full of bounty ready The importance of herbs in than just herbs. The called haymaking for harvesting. Jan Van the Middle Ages appears from important role of redcurrants month. It’s the time Eyck immortalised a medieval the strict monastic rules is illustrated by their presence garden brimming with edible which forbade the use of some in the gardens of the when the grass is ready herbs such as sweet woodruff, herbs due to their stimulating Burgundian palace in Ghent. to be cut and when wild mallow, roses, tansy, yarrow effect on bodily desires. Other types of berries or cultivated herbs and and common marigold. In Applying spectacular colours depicted in the Ghent berries are at their best. everyday life, these plants by means of plants such as Altarpiece are cherries, The Van Eyck brothers’ were sold in the vegetable ginger and saffron was typical mulberries and wild stalls near St Nicholas’ of 14th- and 15th-century strawberries. knowledge of this Church, often on account of cuisine. However, medieval matter appears from the depiction of 75 different flowers, plants and herbs, many of them edible, in the Ghent Altarpiece. Midsummer Night or St the Baptist on 24 June. On the John’s Eve was one of the other hand, traditions such principal seasonal markers as lighting a bonfire called for medieval people. Who Saint John’s Fire are also was Saint John and why was reminiscent of ancient rituals the longest day of the year, 24 associated with the summer June, named after him? John solstice. Furthermore,

the Baptist was the patron medieval people attributed saint of the church where the magical properties to the Mystical Ghent Altarpiece is located, herbs picked on midsummer TASTY TASTY symbolism although the building is night (the night of 23-24 SOUVENIR now known as St Bavo’s June). For instance, bunches Cathedral. The feast day of St of freshly picked Saint John’s John or Johnmas clearly has wort were hung by the front its roots in Christianity since door or hearth to chase away it celebrates the birth of John the devil.

24 DINNER IS SERVED Meat seasonings n the 15th century, culinary manuscripts I herbs were mainly sporadically state that used for watercress and oregano seasoning meat from are used to give a touch of young animals such as freshness to a dish. kid, lamb, chicken, Nowadays, the feast of St suckling pig and veal John no longer plays a (chops or cutlets). prominent role in our Pastrycooks were also cuisine, even though able to make the most of midsummer night may ginger, saffron, cloves and still be traditionally cinnamon when preparing celebrated with a bonfire dishes such as cherry pie. and a festive barbecue At the time, it was rather with spices typical of unusual to garnish dishes (medieval) Ghent. Add a with fresh green herbs, drink and the party is although medieval complete.

Paris, Bibliothèque nationale de France (BNF), Ms. latin 9333 (Tacuinum Sanitatis), f. 9r

Since time immemorial, Tacuinum Sanitatis is a medieval medical handbook DID YOU KNOW? 24 June also marks the based on an Arab treatise and compiled in Italy in the late fourteenth century. This miniature comes from a last crop of Belgian asparagus. manuscript originating in the mid-fifteenth-century No asparagus are harvested after Rhineland. The book recommended eating fresh vegetables this date. The same is true for and herbs, fresh fruit, fresh meat and fresh fish. This rhubarb. Both vegetables were not colourful miniature depicts boys enjoying some ripe cherries. introduced into the Low Countries until the end of the fifteenth century.

25 » 30 g unrefined sugar (molasses, muscovado or brown sugar) Old Ghent » 30 g onion (dried) herb rub for » 35 g cumin seed (toasted) veal chop » 65 g coarse salt » 25 g ginger powder » Utensils: Mortar and pestle

Finely grind the onion, cumin and ginger powder with a mortar and pestle, add sugar and salt.

Sprinkle the meat with the mixture and leave the rub on the meat for 30 to 60 minutes.

Remove any excess season- ing with a brush before frying or grilling the cutlet.

26 serves 4 » 3 egg yolks » 25 g water » beer » wine or stock Rich » 4 g lemon juice herb sauce » vinegar or gastrique » 220 g (molten) lard » pinch of salt and pepper

In the fifteenth century, all parts of an animal, from head to tail, were used for cooking, including the fat which was used as a cooking fat. We can use animal fat to prepare Béarnaise sauce, for instance. It gives a distinct flavour to dishes, especially in combination with certain herbs.

Lightly beat the mixture on a medium heat.

Bind with the molten lard.

Flavour with salt and pepper.

You can add some finely chopped fresh herbs: sorrel, watercress, mint, common marigold, chervil, coriander, dill, etc.

27 JULY Thirst is quenched

AT THE INN Inter- GREETINGS FROM GHENT national The urban vineyard influences or an overview of the Germany (the Mosel and edieval cookery The high temperatures F drinks served at the Rhineland), the produce of M books, which of the summer months Ghent inns in the 15th which was shipped over the were aimed at make people drink century, we need to go back Scheldt river. As a result, St the elite, contain few further in time. Around 630, Peter’s Abbey played an recipes for beverages. more frequently. Many Saint Amand (600-680) important part in the Even though it was not 15th-century beverages travelled from his native development of the Ghent used for cooking, beer were locally produced. France to Ghent to evangelise wine trade. Thanks to its was a very popular drink: The beverages available the local population. He slope, the urban vineyard was by the end of the Middle at that time included founded two abbeys: St excellently located: the rising Ages, the average city Peter’s and St Bavo’s. Two sun kissed the grape-bearing dweller drank about one water, fruit juice, wine, centuries later, abbot Einhard vines every day. Although the litre of beer a day. beer, cider, mead and (770-840), also the so-called Little Ice Age in the Lemonades, verjuice- herbal digestifs. Let’s biographer of Charlemagne, 15th century was not based drinks and syrups look back on our liquid established a vineyard at St favourable to viticulture in are only mentioned in a history. Peter’s Abbey since wine was Ghent, it was primarily the Moorish-Andalusian indispensable in church professionalisation of beer book from the 13th services and at the table. In brewing that finished local century. addition, the abbey owned winegrowing. In Spain, people vineyards in France and drank grenadine or lemonade with mint, basil and cloves, but syrup made from roses, violets, coriander and lavender was popular too. Flemish and French cookery books exclusively mention The popularity of verjuice (the recipes for mulled DID YOU KNOW? wine, the ingredients juice of unripe grapes, apples and of which (cinammon, gooseberries) reached its peak in the Middle ginger, galangal and Ages. Verjuice is made by pressing unripe fruits sugar) are still used in and immediately bottling the juice. This acidic contemporary mulled wine. condiment was added to sauces. 28 TASTY SOUVENIR

Local high-quality beer

hile beer was mostly W homebrewed by women for a long time, the brewers’ guild produced various beer types of reliable quality and at an affordable price in the 14th and 15th centuries. Beers flavoured with a herb mixture (gruit) instead of hops contained ingredients such as bog myrtle, wild rosemary, bay leaf, laserwort and juniper berry in variable proportions. In the early 15th century, changing tastes favoured hopped beers (brewed with water, malt, yeast and hops, which acted as a natural preservative). At the same time, cider and mead went out of fashion. However, an up- market alternative from the Mediterranean entered the market. Aromatised and

Paris, Bibliothèque de l’Arsenal, Livre du gouvernement des Princes (Gilles de Rome), Ms. 5062, f. 149v. Paris, Bibliothèque de l’Arsenal, sweetened with honey, fortified wines from southern Europe became more popular. These This miniature was painted in a manuscript of the Mirror for spiced digestifs were the Princes, a translation of a Latin treatise by Gilles de Rome on precursors of vermouth. political and moral philosophy. The miniaturist depicted a shopping street in a medieval town. In the foreground, we can see an apothecary’s or grocer’s shop where various types of mulled wine were sold, including hippocras, a drink made from wine mixed with honey or sugar and herbs and spices such as cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, rose water and orange flower.

29 » 250 g honey » 250 g water Homemade » 1 lemon (sliced) watercress » 50 g watercress leaves syrup

Bring the water to the boil, remove from the heat and add the honey.

Add the sliced lemon, in- fuse for 5 minutes and pour through a sieve.

Add the watercress leaves and leave under a lid for 1 hour.

Pour the syrup through a fine sieve and store in the refrig- erator in clean bottles.

If you want to make water- cress lemonade, use this syrup in a proportion of 10%.

30 » 20 ml jasmine syrup » 10 ml orange juice Berry » 10 ml verjuice » 5 drops of cocoa essence verjuice » 100 ml tonic lemonade » 1 large ball of ice

Pour all ingredients except the tonic into a mixing cup, stir and serve on ice in a tumbler.

Top with a tonic with a Medi- terranean or spiced flavour.

Finish with a sprig of rose- mary.

31 Fresh bread and

AUGUST mastels in the harvest month

GREETINGS FROM GHENT Corn in Egypt In the 15th-century owadays, Graslei and which meant that all calendar, August was N Korenlei are popular imported corn had to be better known as the Instagram spots, but unloaded at Graslei and in the Middle Ages these Korenlei so that the city harvest month. The quays were an important site could provide its inhabitants work in the fields in for loading and unloading with a steady supply of grain spring was rewarded in grain. In the 11th century, the at affordable prices. Keeping August when the golden port of Ghent became a the price of grain low was grain was reaped. prominent distribution centre a tried and tested political for grain. Ghent had a so- method to keep the peace A successful harvest called “grain staple right”, inside the city. was a good reason for celebration. During the harvest festival, the contemporaries of the Van Eyck brothers feasted on pastries such as mastels.

he city not only ensured grain distribution but T also grain production. The sandy soils around Ghent were ideal for growing rye, a cereal resistant to the cold and wet conditions. Its slightly sour flavour and low digestibility, however, ensured that the From sour medieval diet did not consist entirely of rye. Maslin bread, rye to sweet made from a mixture of more expensive wheat and cheaper rye, was more favoured by the Ghent population. TASTY TASTY maslin According to some sources, this mixture was the basic SOUVENIR ingredient of the mastel, a traditional Flemish bun, even bread though this is disputed. This festive bun, which was known in 16th-century Flanders as morstelle(ken), was served on holy days during the harvest festival, e.g. Assumption on 15 August. 32 DINNER IS SERVED Crunchy pastry ach year, the spread with slightly salted E Patershol Festival butter and covered in dark takes place in Ghent brown sugar. Then the around 15 August. This is the mastel is placed between two ideal occasion to enjoy a sheets of aluminium foil or Ghent mastel with a pint or baking paper. Finally, it is an Irish coffee. Nowadays, ironed so that it transforms mastels are round and soft into a crunchy pastry. milk buns made from butter, Although this tradition eggs, sugar and cinnamon or probably dates back to the other spices. A few Ghent 19th century, it remains a artisan bakers still sell wonderful example of the “ironed” mastels. To make culinary creativity of our them, an opened mastel is ancestors.

The name mastel is DID YOU KNOW? derived from the Old- Vienna, Österreichische Nationalbibliothek (ÖNB), Codex French word for pastry or pie. In Vindobonensis, Series Nova, Ms. 2644 (Tacuinum Sanitatis),f. 64v. Photo: Ghent University, H.0788, Facsimile edition. the 16th century, a mastel was called a morstelle(ken). The origin Circa 1390-1400, an illuminator from the studio of the Italian of this word is sometimes said Giovanni de Grassi painted the miniatures of Tacuinum Sanitatis, a medieval medical handbook. The miniaturist to be mesteil, meaning “maslin” depicted a baker’s shop and oven. The shelves and bread in French. Etymologically, it basket are empty, only the counter still has a few small round seems more likely that there is a loaves. The baker’s wife helps a customer by putting the loaves in a cloth which is put into a bread basket. connection with the Old French wastel or gastel, which became

gâteau in modern French. 33 » 270 g wheat flour » 250 g rye flour » 350 g water Fresh (at room temperature) maslin » 25 g dry yeast bread » 2 g fresh yeast » 10 g salt » Utensils: bread maker

Mix both types of yeast with water until dissolved. Add the wheat and rye flour and have the bread maker knead the dough at medium speed for 5 minutes. If you knead the dough by hand, it takes twice as long.

Add the salt and knead for anoth- er 5 minutes (or 10 minutes if you knead the dough by hand).

Cover the bread pan with a moist cloth and leave to rise for 1 hour.

Remove the cloth and shape the dough.

Put the dough on a baking sheet and allow to rise under a moist cloth for 1.5 hours.

Preheat the oven at 225°C and place an ovenproof dish at the bottom of the oven.

Flour the loaf and make a few cuts in the top with a sharp knife.

Put the loaf in the centre of the oven and pour one glass of water into the dish. Close the oven for 10 minutes.

Lower the temperature to 200°C and allow to bake for another 15 to 20 minutes.

Take the bread from the oven and allow to cool down on a grid with a slight draught. Not sure whether the bread is ready? Tap the bottom of the loaf with your finger; if it sounds hollow, the bread is perfect.

Serve maslin bread with shellfish 34 or cheese. » 2 thick slices of maslin bread or rye bread » 30 g mustard butter (20 g butter + 10 g mustard) Filled » 10 g shredded carrots » 2 slices of matured sandwich cumin cheese » 10 g garden rocket

Spread the slices of bread on both sides generously with mustard butter.

Cover with carrot and cheese.

Finish with a handful of rocket and close the sandwich.

Press, cut in half and enjoy.

35 Vitamin boost thanks to the apple SEPTEMBER and pear harvest

DINNER IS SERVED Naturally GREETINGS FROM GHENT sweet fruit Local fruit trade creations The month of e selling of fruit over 50 apple and pear weetened jams September heralds the T attracted a lot of varieties were available. Figs, S and marmalades beginning of autumn. people: not just raisins, almonds, citrus fruits as we know them consumers, but also and pomegranates were today do not appear in While the berry bushes professional merchants shipped from Venice to Bruges 15th-century cookery bear their last fruits, organised in corporations. T and then distributed by Ghent books. What kinds of it is high time to pick he city authorities allocated fruit vendors. Peddling fruit sweets were served after the apples and pears, an official space tofruit from door to door was done by a medieval meal? A fruit the final stage of the vendors at Kleine women who were only pie recipe from 1380 Korenmarkt, in front of St allowed to carry a maximum seems surprisingly up to harvest season. In the Nicholas’ Church. As it was of four baskets. Fruit vendors date: apples, herbs, figs, Middle Ages, fruits were near the Ghent harbour, the had a privileged job, as raisins, quinces and pears stored and preserved for municipal fruit market was appears from the place of are fried with saffron – a the winter months. optimally accessible. This way honour – in front of the typically medieval the fruit could be supplied by priests, church wardens and seasoning – and then barge as well as by road. Fruit wardens of the poor – they baked in shortcrust vendors mainly sold apples occupied in the sacramental pastry. Bakers and and pears grown locally or in procession of St Nicholas’ pastrycooks looking for a orchards in the Waasland parish. The procession was local and seasonal area, Oudenaarde and headed by the guilds with dessert can draw Zeelandic Flanders. At times, least prestige. inspiration from this recipe.

What is currently known as Sirop de Liège already existed DID YOU KNOW? in the Middle Ages and was made by reducing apple and/or pear juice. It was a way to make use of fallen fruit. Dates were added later on. You can spread this paste on bread or use in sauce.

36 TASTY SOUVENIR

Storing fruit in the Little Ice Age

lthough some apple possible for the upper classes. A and pear varieties An affordable preservation could be stored until method consisted in boiling the summer of the following fruit and combining it with year, not all fruit was dried fruits (figs and raisins) consumed fresh. A fruit to make a compote. Another supply was kept for lean option was cooking in honey, times. This was a sensible as was the case for (pear) thing to do, keeping in mind marmalade with honey. The that the Little Ice Age started simplest preservation method in the 15th century and the was drying fruit in the climate would continue to be residual heat of an oven. unusually cold until the 19th Afterwards, the fruit could be century. Fruit was therefore used as a sweetener for all sometimes preserved by sorts of wintery dishes: e.g. sugaring or candying, but as apple or pear purée, possibly sugar was an expensive seasoned with saffron and commodity, this was only rosemary.

Munich, Bayerische Staatsbibliothek, Codex latinum Ms. 23638 (Munich-Montserrat Book of Hours), f. 10v.. Simon Bening, who was born in Ghent but lived in Bruges from 1517 onwards, painted this miniature circa 1535 for the calendar of a book of hours commissioned by Alonso de Idiaquez, royal secretary to Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. It shows how apples were picked and creates an ambience of an abundant harvest. A man standing on a ladder picks apples and puts them in a basket, while a woman is picking up fallen apples. Another woman has collected lots of apples in her apron and gives one to a child. A basket full of apples can be seen between the four figures.

37 » 210 g fruit (peeled or washed) » 65 g raw honey Fruit and » 30 g verjuice honey » pinch of salt marmalade

Put all ingredients in a deep pot and fully submerge in water.

Gently bring to the boil and regularly skim off any impu- rities.

Reduce the mixture almost completely on a low heat.

Divide the marmalade over a few jars, press and close off.

38 serves 4 » 500 g apple Apple and (Boskoop, Elstar, Braeburn) pear purée » 500 g pears (Gieser, Wildeman, with saffron Saint Rimy) and » 3 saffron threads rosemary » dash of dry white wine » 2 sprigs of rosemary » 2 tablespoons cane sugar

Peel the apples and pears and remove the core.

Cut the fruit in equal chunks and put in a pot together with the wine and sugar.

Gently bring to the boil and add the saffron threads.

Strip off the rosemary leaves and finely chop them.

Add the rosemary leaves to the fruit purée and boil for 10 minutes on a low heat.

39 Mussels and oysters OCTOBER in the popular cuisine

DINNER IS SERVED TASTY From garnish to luxury dish SOUVENIR Medieval people ussels and oysters chips did not yet exist as considered October a M were rarely served on potatoes were still unknown very generous month their own at the in Europe. Oysters were also tables of the medieval elite, on the menu in the 15th with a wide range of although it is their salty century, but they were Local seafood. Contrary to essence that sets these foods invariably cooked and today, shellfish was apart. However, mussels and gratinated instead of top-quality ordinary food in the oysters were frequently consumed raw. Shellfish beers late Middle Ages. The used in soups and stews. recipes also existed, but what What’s more, it is hard to find is striking is the sweet touch: rich natural mussel simple recipes in which lobster meat was covered in and oyster beds off the mussels are merely stewed. sugar after frying. To balance Flemish coast were Of course, the famous the flavour, it was served not yet exhausted and Belgian dish of mussels and with some maslin bread. ensured a stable supply n the 15th century, I oysters and mussels of affordable food. were at their best in autumn, but they were fre- quently eaten until March and April during Lent. Con- trary to today, they spoiled quickly during transport in the summer heat and were not harvested in summer. This allowed the mussel beds to regenerate. Medieval fishmongers DID YOU KNOW? not only sold oysters and mussels, but also other shellfish such as cockles, periwinkles, prawns, shrimps, crabs and even lobsters.

40 Religious mussel fans ow did mussels reach rules of Saint Benedict: little H the tables of Ghent? sleep, long prayers and a Flat-bottomed mussel sober diet. The nuns’ diet boats sailed to the mussel mainly consisted of bread, beds off the Flemish coast, the vegetables, fruits, legumes Western Scheldt and the Zwin and fish. Seafood dishes with estuary, which were exposed affordable mussels, herring, at low tide. Fully grown flatfish, farmed carp and mussels that had reached the other freshwater fishes were age of 2 or 3 years were often eaten. handpicked, collected in More expensive fish such baskets and loaded into the as cod was reserved for the ship’s hold. At high tide, the abbess and her guests. Saint boats set sail to the Benedict only allowed meat to marketplace in the city centre. be eaten by the sick or weak. Mussel dishes were an By the mid-15th century, inexpensive part of the however, the pope authorised popular cuisine and were a moderate amount of regularly served at the tables meat to be consumed in of monasteries and convents, monasteries and convents. e.g. at Bijloke Abbey in It is not known whether the Ghent. Life at Bijloke Abbey nuns of Bijloke Abbey were was governed by the strict aware of this. New York, Pierpont Morgan Library, Ms. M 917 (Book of Hours of Catherine of Cleves), p. 244.

This folio is part of the Book of Hours of Catherine of Cleves, granddaughter van John the Fearless, Duke of Burgundy. This manuscript was produced in Utrecht circa 1440 and illuminated by an anonymous artist. This folio features the image of Saint Ambrose. Mussels and a crab are depicted in the margins of this miniature. The depiction of these animals is very realistic for that time.

41 » 500 g mussels » 500 g shellfish Shellfish (cockles, periwinkles) stew with » 10 cl verjuice verjuice and » 2 cloves of garlic parsley (crushed) » 3 sprigs of fresh thyme » 2 fresh bay leaves » 1 sprig of parsley (finely chopped) » 1 onion (finely chopped) » a knob of butter

Sauté the chopped onion and crushed cloves of garlic in butter. Add the thyme and rosemary and let everything fry gently.

Increase the heat and add the mussels and shellfish. Boil for about 5 minutes under a lid and regularly give it a shake.

Add the verjuice at the end and allow to boil down.

Finish with a generous amount of finely chopped parsley. Enjoy!

42 » 4 oysters 000 » 60 g shallot Oysters au (finely chopped) gratin with » 2 dl white wine saffron » 1 dl white wine vinegar butter sauce » 170 g butter » oyster liquid » 1 fresh bay leaf » 10 cl cream » 3 saffron threads » 20 g almond flakes » pinch of salt and pepper

Open the oysters and sieve the liquid, put the oysters aside for a moment and rinse the shells. Check the oysters for bits of shell.

Sauté the shallot with the bay leaf in butter (20 g) and deglaze with white wine, oyster liquid and white wine vinegar.

Reduce to 1/4 and bind with 150 g of (cold) butter and cream.

Season with saffron, pepper and salt and put the oysters back in the shells.

Sprinkle with saffron butter sauce and almond flakes and gratinate.

43 Poultry as a ray of hope NOVEMBER in dark months

GREETINGS FROM GHENT November is stereo­ Pious Pharaildis and her goose typically characterised as the month in which aint Pharaildis (650- eventually abusing Pharaildis. went to the city where she S 740) is the patron After his death, she was able frantically looked for the feet, the harvest ends and the saint of Ghent. How to devote herself fully to the bones and other remains of slaughter of livestock did she acquire this status? As worship of God. In the final her favourite goose, until begins. The feast of a young girl, she decided to stage of her life, Pharaildis she had reconstituted the Saint Martin on 11 devote her life to God and lived outside the city walls of skeleton. In tears, she prayed November is traditionally made a vow of virginity. Ghent. One day, the harvest to God and according to the However, this was not what of the surrounding farms was legend, the goose came back considered the start of her family had in mind, and destroyed by geese. Thanks to life. Shortly after her death, the dark months, a period she was married against her to her patience, Pharaildis she began to be venerated of forty days before will to a nobleman called succeeded in taming the in Ghent; her relics are the winter solstice. To Guido. Married or not, geese. She even fed and cared nowadays located in St Bavo’s commemorate Saint Pharaildis remained faithful to for them. Everything went abbey. She is the patron saint her vow and went to church well, until she discovered of difficult marriages and of Martin, geese – which every night. one morning that one of her small pets. In addition, some were at their fattest at The marriage was thus favourite geese was missing. sources claim that her life was that time of the year – not consummated, which She thought it had escaped, the origin of Ghent’s name, were slaughtered, an resulted in Guido becoming but in fact it had been stolen since “gent” means “gander” ancient tradition the increasingly frustrated and by a hungry Ghentian. She in Dutch. origins of which are lost in the mists of time.

aint Martin’s day is the ultimate harvest festival, since abundant S supplies of food are available in this period. To add to the festive spirit, bonfires were lit and the first barrels of wine were tapped on 11 November. In addition, a plump goose was slaughtered and served. Roast goose The feast and stuffed chicken were the typical festive dishes for the common of Saint people. More exclusive poultry and fowl such as swans, peafowl, pigeon, TASTY TASTY heron, crane and partridge were served at the banquets and feasts of SOUVENIR Martin Burgundian noblemen. It was fashionable among the nobility to put the feathers back onto the bird after cooking; sometimes the meat was even covered by a mounted bird. Late medieval chefs certainly liked some 44 effect in their dishes and guests enjoyed the spectacle. DINNER IS SERVED spectacular food or street food oultry, goose and suckling pig and a chicken or P winged game occurred goose in half, sewing the two in most of the together, roasting the beast medieval cookery books. and gilding it before serving it. Chicken and capon - a This dish is hardly made castrated rooster or cockerel anymore. As goose is tough – were practically on and chewy, this type of poultry everyone’s menu, while the is only rarely served in its consumption of game meat entirety nowadays. Goose was a privilege of the upper rillettes, goose foie gras and class, who took care of the goose croquettes are more hunting as well. Peacock was popular goose dishes. If you for example filled with pork are open to serving goose in and cinnamon while roasted accordance with the latest heron was served with saffron food trends, you can opt for and swan with a sour vinegar pulled goose, which involves sauce and blood. A true making the goose breast Paris, Bibliothèque de l’Arsenal, Ms. 5070 (Decameron, spectacle was a cockentrice, tender and juicy. French translation, Laurent de Premierfait), f. 226v°. which involved cutting a

After the plague epidemic of 1348, Italian author Boccaccio de Decamerone wrote a book with a hundred stories told by Florentine citizens who had fled their city to escape the Geese and pigs were kept DID YOU KNOW? plague. Geraardsbergen-based author and Ghent burgher inside the city walls in Ghiselbrecht de Mets copied a French translation of The courtyards and in enclosed gardens Decameron between 1434 and 1438. The 54th novella in the book tells the story of a cook who manages to quell of the city, which was still remarkably the anger of his Florentine lord and make him laugh. The green at that time. These geese did anonymous painter Manselmeester painted a miniature to not only provide meat and eggs but go with this story in circa 1450. We see the cook roasting a heron and presenting a leg of the bird to his love. were sometimes used for popular entertainment as well. A popular yet sinister traditional game was throwing knives at living geese tied to a pole. 45 serves 4 » 100 g lard » butter or oil » 500 g chicken (cut into pieces) Cockentrice » 250 g smoked bacon stew (cut into lardons) » 250 g pork loin (cut into strips) » 300 g silver onions (freshly peeled) » 300 g of the smallest Parisian mushrooms » 250 ml verjuice or dry white wine » 1.5 l chicken or pork stock » 5 eggs » 1 bunch of parsley (finely chopped) » 15 g ginger powder » 5 saffron threads » pinch of pepper and salt

Season the pieces of chick- en, pork loin and bacon and fry them golden brown in a casserole with a generous amount of fat. Put the meat aside for a moment.

Stew the silver onions and the mushrooms in the same casserole.

Drain the fat and return all ingredients to the pan.

Deglaze with the verjuice and moisten with the stock.

Leave to simmer gently with the lid half on.

Break the eggs and season with the ginger powder, saffron and a pinch of pepper and salt.

Add the chopped parsley. Make a nice omelette in a pan with the same diameter as the casserole.

Check the tenderness as well as the seasoning and top the 46 stew with the omelette. 4 personen » 1 goose breast » some ginger powder » a pinch of pepper Pulled and coarse salt goose » 1/3 molten goose fat with ginger » 1/3 chicken stock » 1/3 apple juice

Cut the goose breast into thick slices and season lav- ishly with ginger powder, pepper and coarse salt.

Let the seasoning sit on the meat for about one hour and then brush off most of it.

Arrange the slices in a deep pan and moisten with 1/3 molten goose fat, 1/3 chicken stock and 1/3 apple juice. Make sure that the meat is fully immersed in the liquid.

Put on the lid and let the meat cook slowly at low heat for approximately 3 hours.

Baste the meat regularly as the cooking process pro- gresses.

Check the tenderness and pull the tender goose meat apart.

Boil the remaining liquid down to syrup thickness.

Return the goose meat to the pan and mix with the sauce. You may add some red wine vinegar to make the prepara- tion easier to digest.

The recipe can also be made with goose legs, but in that case you need to increase the cooking time by 1/3. Serve this pulled goose as a warm salad combined with vegeta- bles or in a sandwich as a street food snack. 47 Pastry for any winter DECEMBER celebration

DINNER IS SERVED GREETINGS FROM GHENT Flemish Sweets from the bee garden Stew In December, Flanders round 1330, the the City of Ghent (1314-1315) round the 15th was under a dark shroud. A religious complex of mentions a tax on honey A century, gingerbread Outdoor life came to a Saint Bavo’s Abbey which accounted for no was prepared in bordered the Sint-Baafsvesten less than 0.8% of the city’s figuratively decorated halt and late medieval neighbourhood, which revenues. In the 13th century, moulds and usually citizens crowded around featured two green areas gingerbread bakers started decorated in an exuberant the smouldering fire. dotted with trees. Only the to appear in all major cities manner. Even today, we can Sweet gingerbread and zone between the abbey and in Northwestern Europe. still find festively decorated honey cakes were the the fortifications was freely The gingerbread made in bakery display windows with accessible. This zone was Ghent was apparently very gingerbread or Klaaskoeken most prized sweets back probably home to the bee popular. A regulation of the with the typical spices during then. On the occasion of garden. People could walk City of Ghent from 1441 makes the holiday season. Medieval Saint Nicholas’ day, the freely in the area. The earliest mention of a Ghent-based cookery books indicate that Christmas celebrations, mention of the bee garden grocer who was entitled to sell gingerbread was added to New Year’s Eve and dates from the 1262-1279 his gingerbread throughout ray and deer lung period. We do not yet know Flanders. Chauvinistic author preparations. It was also Epiphany, people tended exactly why this area was Marcus van Vaernewijk (1516- used as a binding agent for to indulge in sweet named that way. 1569) furthermore writes winter sauces instead of pastry more than during We do know that honey down the following in the 16th bread or almonds. Did you the rest of the year. was a prized sweet in these century: “Ghent outperforms know that you can make almost sugarless times. The all other cities in the baking of 100% Ghentian ‘Van Eyck’ oldest preserved accounts of high-quality gingerbread.” stew by adding gingerbread?

The distribution area of gingerbread DID YOU KNOW? (including in the form of peperkoek, Lebkuchen and pain d’épices) stretches from the foot of the Alps to Northern Europe. In Southern Europe, people still mainly eat nougat. This was already the 48 case in the 15th century. TASTY SOUVENIR

Festive pastry as a sacrificial ritual

t is no coincidence to-do citizens. It was an I that the festive exquisite gift. Under the month of December influence of the Dukes of was filled with heartwarming Burgundy, this gingerbread stories and rituals. The dark even experienced a major end-of-year period was a popularity boost and was time for reflection and even called le pain ducal setting new intentions. (the ducal bread). Ordinary Festive pastry might Ghent residents knew it originate from an ancient as an exceptional sweet sacrificial ritual in which treat. They ate gingerbread people showed gratitude when celebrating important to nature (for the harvest) moments throughout the and prayed for a new fertile year and milestones in life. annual cycle. Gingerbread This practice lives on in the is originally a regional modern-day celebration Vienna, Österreichische Nationalbibliothek (ÖNB), Codex Vindo- product based on rye that of Saint Nicholas, who bonensis, Series Nova, Ms. 2644 (Tacuinum Sanitatis), f. 95v. is enriched and improved hands out speculaas, the with very sweet honey and modern version of Dutch Circa 1390-1400, an illuminator from the studio of the expensive spices, which give gingerbread, to children Italian Giovanni de Grassi painted the miniatures of the gingerbread an exclusive who have been good, and Tacuinum Sanitatis, a medieval medical handbook. This character. It is therefore not in the tradition of eating miniature features a lady buying rock candy sticks with her surprising that Gingerbread gingerbread hearts around pharmacist. These sticks can be used in beverages such as was mainly eaten by well- the turn of the year. tea. Sugar candy was also an important ingredient of spice cake, the gingerbread of the Middle Ages.

49 serves 4 SPICES » 30 g cinnamon » 10 g nutmeg Beef » 5 g anise seed stew with » 10 g cloves gingerbread » 5 g grain of paradise » 5 g coriander seeds. » Crush everything in a mortar.

STEW » 750 g cleaned pork cheeks » 250 g beef stew » 300 g shallots » 3 fresh bay leaves » 1 tbsp spice mixture » 50 g muscovado sugar » brown beer » water » 2 slices of gingerbread » 2 tbsp mustard.

Cut the meat in equal pieces and brown in salted butter.

Remove the meat from the pan and brown the shal- lots very well (until nearly burned).

Add muscovado sugar and bay, season with the spices and let heat for a couple of seconds.

Deglaze and moisten with a mixture of ¾ brown beer and ¼ water that has pre- viously been brought to the boil briefly (to remove the bitterness)

Cover with two slices of gin- gerbread topped with a thick layer of mustard.

Put a lid on the pan and let simmer at 85° for one hour / 50 Season to taste serves 4 » 4 slices of stale bread (white, rye or raisin bread, sweet bread rolls, crois- sants, nut bread, brioche…) French » ½ gingerbread (± 125g) toast with » 3 dl fresh milk gingerbread » 1 dl cream » 2 large free-range eggs » 25 g sweetener: honey, brown sugar, black treacle, maple syrup, corn syrup, malt syrup, date syrup, agave syrup… » spices to taste: cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla, saffron, liquorice… » flowers to taste: marigold, sage flowers, mint flowers, African marigold… » a dash of rum or tea » a knob of salted butter » 10-20 g brown sugar for each slice of bread (depending on the size of each piece of bread)

Soak the stale bread in 3dl fresh milk, 1 dl cream, 2 large free-range eggs and the sweetener of your choice.

If desired, flavour the milk with spices, flowers and a dash of rum or tea.

Roll the bread mixture into powdered dried gingerbread before baking.

Panfry the French toast in salted butter and some brown sugar.

Serve with some fruit, fried egg with bacon etc. if you wish

51 JANUARY Lievois D. 2006: Fruit en fruitverkopers Beyers L. & Van Damme I. 2016: in Gent (1357-1542), Handelingen Antwerpen à la Carte. Eten en de der Maatschappij voor Geschiedenis stad, van de middeleeuwen tot en Oudheidkunde te Gent, Nieuwe vandaag, Antwerp. Reeks 60, 75-151. Deseyn G. 1991: Gids voor Oud Gent, Milis L. 1995: Hemelse monniken, aardse Antwerp. mensen. Het monniken ideaal en DE HERDT, R. Year: ‘Het Groot Vleeshuis: zijn betekenis voor de middeleeuwse een functioneel middeleeuws samenleving, Antwerp. gebouw.’, Tijdschrift voor industriële Van Vaerenbergh J. 2019: Paradijskoek cultuur, Vol 21 no. 83 (2003) p 2-13. en Kleyn bier. Proeven van Bruegel, Jørgensen D. 2013: Running Amuck? unpublished study ordered by Laika, Urban Swine Management in Late Theater der zinnen, for De Wereld van Medieval England, Agricultural Bruegel, Bokrijk. History 87, 429-451. Announcements: Geheugen Collectief LIÉVOIS, D. (penshuisjes/vleeshuis) Van Vaerenbergh J. 2018: PULS, Sint- APRIL Niklaas. Lievois D. 2006: Fruit en fruitverkopers Academie voor Streekgebonden in Gent (1357-1542), Handelingen Gastronomie - Pensen door Fons der Maatschappij voor Geschiedenis Nicolay en Jo Van Caenegem - http:// en Oudheidkunde te Gent, Nieuwe www.blog.seniorennet.be/pensen_ Reeks 60, 75-151.µ asg/archief.php?ID=944518 Lievois D. 2008, ‘Kaas en boter in Gent’, Announcements: Anton Ervynck, Flanders Handelingen der Maatschappij voor Heritage Agency Geschiedenis en Oudheidkunde, Ghent FEBRUARY Moens J., De Groote K., Ervynck A., Bibliography Delcart A. 2007: Winterfeesten en Millis L. & Tack G. 2007: Regulen Gebak. Mythen, folklore en traditie, voor den cock. Een banket in de abdij Antwerpen-Apeldoorn. van Ename, Ename. de Mooij Ch. (red.) 1992: Vastenavond– van Uytven R. 2007: Geschiedenis van de Carnaval, feesten van de omgekeerde dorst. Twintig eeuwen drinken in de wereld, ’s Hertogenbosch. Lage Landen, Leuven. Ver Elst, A. 1962: Folkloristische Van Vaerenbergh J. 2018: PULS, Sint- Tijdsspiegel voor België, Brussels, Niklaas. 130-131. Announcements: Anton Ervynck, Van Vaerenbergh J. 2019: Paradijskoek Announcements: Anton Ervynck, en Kleyn bier. Proeven van Bruegel, Flanders Heritage Agency. unpublished study ordered by Laika, Theater der zinnen, for De Wereld van M AY Bruegel, Bokrijk. Beeckman D. & Van Hecke C. 2017: In Collection of Musea Brugge. de Cop op de Merckt, Ghent. Last name, first name. Brochure Open Billiet J. (second half of the Monumentendag. City: publisher, 17th century): Chronijcke van 2014. Rupelmonde. De Groote K., Moens J., Caluwé D., MARCH Cooremans B., Deforce K., Er- FRANC, H. ‘Memoria et Caritas, Jaargetijden vynck A., Lentacker A., Rijme- als armenzorg in de Onze-Lieve-Vrou- nants E., Van Neer W., Vernaeve weparochie te Gent in de late middel- W. & Zeebroek I. 2004: De Valcke, 52 eeuwen.’ 2013. 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Schrijnen J. 1930: Sint-Maarten, Van Crombrugge, H. & Van den SEPTEMBER Nederlandsche Volkskunde, eerste Bremt P. 2016: Een wonderbaarlijke Moens J., De Groote K., Ervynck A., deel, Zutphen, 128-143. tuin. Flora op het Lam Gods, Ghent. Millis L. & Tack G. 2007: Regulen Van Bost F. 1990: Het Ganzenbord in Announcements: Paul Van den Bremt, voor den cock. Een banket in de abdij Vlaanderen, Mechelen. historical botanist. van Ename, Ename. VAN DER LINDEN R. & CAMPS R. 1979: www.medievalcookery.com Lievois D. 2006: Fruit en fruitverkopers Volksverhalen uit Oost­ en West­ www.coquinaria.nl in Gent (1357-1542), Handelingen der Vlaanderen, Utrecht/Antwerp: Maatschappij voor Geschiedenis en Spectrum (1979): 72-73. JULY Oudheidkunde te Gent, Nieuwe Reeks Van Vaerenbergh J. 2019: Paradijsk Deforce K. 2017: The interpretation of 60, 75-151. en Kleyn bier. Proeven van Bruegel, pollen assemblages from medieval Van Crombrugge, H. & Van den unpublished study ordered by Laika, and postmedieval cesspits: New Bremt P. 2016: Een wonderbaarlijke Theater der zinnen, for De Wereld van results from northern Belgium, Qua- tuin. Flora op het Lam Gods, Ghent. Bruegel, Bokrijk. ternary International 460, 124-134. van Uytven R. 2007: Geschiedenis van Announcements: Anton Ervynck, van Uytven R. 2007: Geschiedenis van de dorst. Twintig eeuwen drinken in Agentschap Onroerend Erfgoed. de dorst. Twintig eeuwen drinken in de Lage Landen, Leuven. https://gentblogt-archief.stad. de Lage Landen, Leuven. Expo Ieper, Bewoning in de Verdronken gent/2008/01/04/ een-vertelsel- Van Vaerenbergh J. 2019: Paradijskoek Weiden ?, De Wilde M. – Flanders ke-over-de-heilige-veerle. html 53 DECEMBER MANUSCRIPTS Delcart A. 2007: Peperkoek van Vondelmolen. AND PUBLICATIONS Een gezonde traditie sinds 1867, Oostkamp. Culinaire en medicinale recepten, Ghent Delcart A. 2007: Winterfeesten en Gebak. University Library, manuscript 476 Mythen, folklore en traditie, Antwerp- Kookboek, Ghent University Library, manuscript Apeldoorn. 1035 Pleij H. 1997: Dromen van Cocagne. NUYTTENS (F.). Bloemlezing uit een vijftiende- Middeleeuwse fantasieën over het eeuws kookboek, manuscript 1035, Ghent volmaakte leven, Amsterdam. University Library, Gent, published in Van Vaerenbergh J. 2018: Leefkoek. Het 1872 by C.A. Serrure, desen bouc leert wel expeditierapport. Van zoete zonde, over ende edelicke spijse te bereedene tetene kneusje van de ontbijttafel tot duurzaam also hier naer volcht / edited and adapted future food, Unpublished study ordered by to present-day standards by Francine Bokrijk. Nuyttens. Esco Books,1985 http://www.natuurpuntgent.be/snepartikels/ Convoluut, Koninklijke academie voor jg7_nr2_Malmarpark%20of%20Bijgaard.pdf Nederlandse taal- en letterkunde, Ghent, manuscript 15. TREATISES BOSTRÖM (I.), Due libri di cucina, Almqvist & Franc H. ‘Memoria et Caritas, Jaargetijden Wiksell International,1985 als armenzorg in de Onze-Lieve- VAN DER NOOT (T.), Een notabel boecxken van Vrouweparochie te Gent in de late cokereyen, Brussel, 1510. middeleeuwen.’ 2013. Ghent University. BSB 4 Rar. 752. PICHON (J.). en VICAIRE (G.), Le viandier de WEBSITES Guillaume Tirel dit Taillevent, Techener, https://www.gent-geprent.com/stadspoorten/ 1892. eerste-wal/brabantpoort PICHON (J.). Le Ménagier de Paris. Société de https://www.vlaamsemeestersinsitu.be/nl/site/ bibliophiles françoise, 1846 bijlokeabdijrefter-het-stam WARNER (R.) (ed.) Antiquitates Culinariae Or https://vjv.vlaanderen/2017/10/23/ onze-gentse- Curious Tracts Relating to the Culinary stadswijngaard/ Affairs of the Old English, Blamire, 1791 DANNER (B.) (ed.) Alte Kochrezepte aus dem bayrische Inntal. In: Ostbairische Grenzmarken 12 (1970) 118-128. (= Cod. 793 der Donaueschinger Hofbibliothek, Bl. 27v-28v und 96r-98r, 15./16. Jh.) SCULLY (T.) (ed.), The Neapolitan recipe collection, University of Michigan Press, 2000. HAJEK (H.) (ed.) Das Buch von guter Speise (um 1350), Aus der Würzburg-Münchener Handschrift, Berlin 1958. PEGGE, S. The Forme of Cury, A Roll of Ancient English Cookery, Compiled, about A.D. 1390, by the Master-Cooks of King Richard II, Presented Afterwards to Queen Elizabeth, by Edward, Lord Stafford, and Now in the Possession of Gustavus Brander, Esq, Franklin Classics Trade Texts, 2018

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