Steinbart Beer Kits General Instructions & Recommendations 503.232.8793 fhsteinbart.com DESCRI!TI#$ to clean and sanitize everything that will come in The goal of the beer kit you purchased from us is contact with the beer /-T;R the boil. simple; make brewing your own beer easier than ever! Please read through these general instructions to 66TI!66 P8;"14<%614<% is called the hot side== familiarize yourself with the brewing process and then P4 T"14<%6-;8+;0T is called the cold side== feel confident diving into the recipe for the kit you selected. Happy brewing! 1efore each item is used3 it should first be cleaned of all visible soil or residue and then sanitized. *lean with hot E%UI!'E$" LIS" (S"UFF Y#U LI,E(+ -LRE-D+ H-/E0 water and an unscented detergent. The following things • tove should be sanitized. • !"#$% tock Pot or &ettle '!$% minimum size—see tip about partial boil) #$ 1REWI$G D-Y S-$ITI3E ".E *#((#WI$G • *ooking poon • -ermenter3 lid3 airlock 9 stopper • trainer • trainer • Measuring *up • Thermometer • >east Package E%&I!ME$" (IST ).#MEBREW GE-R0 • -unnel 'if applicable) • 6-8 $allon -ermentation .essel 'food grade bucket with tight lid works well) #$ 1#""(I$G D-Y S-$ITI3E ".E *#((#WI$G • /irlock with topper • 1ottling 1ucket • anitizing /gent • 8acking *ane 9 Transfer Tubing • Non scented cleaner 'P123 45yClean) • 1ottle -iller • Thermometer • 1ottles and bottle caps • Hydrometer67ar • /ny other ob?ect that contacts the beer E%&I!ME$" (IST )#!TI#$-( GE-R0 .#! SC.EDU(E • *arboy and /ccessories / standard hop schedule tells you when and the • 1ottle6*arboy 2asher quantity of hops to add to the kettle throughout the one • -unnel hour boiling time. • 2ort *hiller • Hops added AB ,C min.D are boiled for the entire hour3 and hops added AB E! min.D are added when 1#""(I$G E%&I!ME$" E5 minutes remains in the boil. • 1ottling 1ucket • Hops added AB C min.D are added after boil has • 1ottle -iller ended and the heat has been turned off. They are • 1ottle *apper then steeped for EC"E5 min. prior to chilling the wort. • 1ottling 1rush • Hops added AB dry-hop” are added post primary • 8acking *ane fermentation and commonly added into a secondary • %ength of .inyl Tubing fermentation vessel. Dry hopping typically is done • 1ottles 9 *aps from !"H days at which point they are either removed from the fermented beer or the beer is (E-$I$G & S-$ITI3I$G )DO$4T SKI! ".IS STE!550 racked off to a packaging vessel. 1eer is created when yeast converts sugar into alcohol and *4:. Thus3 the whole purpose of brewing is to create the perfect food for microorganisms. o the very 66TI!66 -.H. teinbartIs suggested best practice for thing we make to feed to our commercial yeast is also using hop steeping bags is to use up to E oz. of hop very attractive to other food based organisms3 such as pellets per steeping bag and tying a knot at the top3 the bacteria that creates vinegar or yogurt. That is allowing as much room as possible for the hops to where sanitation comes into play. expand inside the bag. To make sure your yeast has the upper hand3 you need *&(( /S !-RTI-( 1#I( it to slow '!"H days) before racking to secondary and <t is possible to do a partial wort boil using a lesser adding your dry-hops. amount of water when boiling the wort and then adding the remaining water at the end when filling the DR+:.#!!I$G fermentation vessel. The trade-off is that the beer will Dry hopping is best done in secondary fermentation. likely taste sweeter and the characteristics of the hops 8ack the beer into a sanitized carboy3 being careful to will be diFerent from the intended recipe. -or full hop leave behind any sediment 'a wide-mouth carboy is utilization and efficiency we recommend boiling the recommended for dry-hopped and fruited beers). wort in the full 5 to 6 gallons of water. 1efore you begin dry hopping3 think about how long you want the beer in secondary3 what date do you plan !RI'-RY *ERME$"-TI#$ to bottle or keg onP This will inform when you add the >ou will begin to see activity in the fermenter within :K dry hops. !"H days of totally dry hopping is standard so hours. / foamy cap will develop on the top of the beer schedule accordingly. and bubbles will escape through the airlock. 4ver the next several days the activity will begin to slow down. >ou can add the hops into the fermenter one of two Primary fermentation typically lasts one week. ways. >ou can simply toss them in loose and let them Temperature control is important when fermenting beer3 float around and really mi5 in with the beer. No need to do your best to keep your fermentation vessels at a sanitize them as hops are naturally anti-microbial. They constant temperature. will mostly settle out to the bottom of the ferementer and generally won't leave much plant matter behind in SE #$D-R+ *ERME$"-TI#$ )if reci8e re9uires it0 your finished beer. The second option is to place your /fter primary fermentation completes3 usually !"H days. hop pellets or cones into a hop steeping bag to keep E. /dd your ingredient additions 'fruit3 honey3 etc.) to a them more contained3 which does make clean up a bit smaller secondary vessel and rack beer onto it. <t is easier. ;ither way you choose3 once the hops are in the important to minimize headspace at this point to vessel simply place fermenter in a location where you reduce o5ygenation of the beer. 45ygen causes off" can hold the temperature at HCR- 'or as close as flavors in beers over time. possible to maximize dry-hop extraction and allow the :. eal the fermenter with a bung and airlock. yeast to finish). -ermentation will restart briefly due to the sugars in the puree. 1#""(I$G -$D BE+#$D M. 4nce this second fermentation has slowed3 !"H days -ermentation is finished when the specific gravity ' $) generally3 add the dry-hops and leave for another !" is S6" :"M points of the stated -$ on the recipe3 but H days. timing at this stage is flexible. 8ecord this number as your finishing gravity '-$). 2hen you are ready to bottle *R&IT -DDITI#$S your beer3 make a simple syrup by combing K oz. of -ruit additions are best added after primary priming sugar in a pint of water on the stove. 1ring to a fermentation has slowed6finished '!"H days). N "E lb. per boil and simmer for E! min. %et this cool to room gallon is a good rule of thumb when deciding how much temperature. anitize your bottling equipment; bottles3 to add. /lso consider the strength of the fruit flavor auto-siphon3 tubing3 bottle filler3 and bottle caps. /dd being added3 such as berries vs citrus fruit. 1erries are the cooled priming sugar solution into the bottling generally milder than citrus fruit flavors which tend to bucket. iphon your beer into the bottling bucket to mi5 have a higher level of acids.3 too much of which would thoroughly with the sugar. Then siphon the beer into produce very sharp and tart flavors that may overpower your bottles using the bottle filler and secure the caps. the other flavors of your beer. >our beer will be ready to drink after conditioning for <f you plan on using fresh fruit we recommend freezing two weeks at room temperature 'HC"HKR- is best). 4nce them for :K hours prior to adding to your fermenter conditioning is complete place bottles in cool place which will kill any bacteria or wild yeasts that may be on and6or refrigerate. /fter :K"K# hours the *4: should the fruit skins. 0ext3 frozen and6or canned now be in solution and your beer is ready to drink. /nd 'unsweetened) fruit works @uite well due to the donIt forget to relax3 you are en?oying a homebrew! processing of the fruit which reduces the likelihood of contamination from wild yeast and bacteria in the fruit. I7 ;ou <a=e an; 9uestions about t<ese instructions or Note: when fruit is added fermentation activity will start t<e included reci8e 8lease call us at )8000 638-2897 back up due to the sugars in the fruit therefore3 wait for or email info?fhsteinbart.com Porter English Porter RE-DI$G & &$DERS"-$DI$G ".E RE I!E DESCRIPTI#$ G; *8<PT<40O / brief introduction to the amazing This classic Porter has a roasty-chocolate and beer you3 yes >4U are going to make! sweet caramel malt profile. The hops are subtle3 THE 0T+1;8 O just enough to balance out the malts with a bright ABV is the volume of alcohol in your beer yet slight bitter note. SRM is the color of your beer. 'E is straw; 40 is black) IBU is the amount of bittering in your beer -1/ @.5A B SR'32 B I1& 22 B #G C.05@ B *G C.0C> OG is the amount of sugars your wort contains FG is the amount of sugars left after fermentation *ER'EN"-1(ES H Lb %ight Liquid Malt E5tract (%+;) 666TI!666 >ou can use the 4$ reading and -$ reading you take with your hydrometer to determine the actual /1. of your finished beer. Use an online calculator to STEEPING GR-I$S convert the numbers. 4 oz %ight roast barley -;8+ENT/1%; O This is the heart of the recipe.