482

Amazon, cont. Aqua Expeditions (Iquitos), 324, Index cuisine, 14, 318 327–28 getting around, 331 Aranwa Boutique Hotel, a getting there, 330 10, 232 Abra de Runcuracay, 268 health precautions, 303 Aranwa Accommodations, 467–68. See also hotels & lodges, 12, 42, 296, (Huayllabamba), 284 specifi c hotels and lodges; Where 300–301, 306–8, 320–21, Archaeological sites. See Ruins & to Stay sections 326–27 archaeological sites best, 10–12 northern region, 296, 297, 312–15, Architecture, 210–11. See also Achoma, 148 318–29 Colonial mansions; Ruins & Action Valley Cusco Adventure rainy season, 301 archaeological sites Park, 275 restaurants, 300–301, 318–19 best, 15 Acueductos de Cantalloc (Nasca), southern region, 8, 29, 42, Arequipa, 29–30, 132–35, 136–41 105 296–311 colonial mansions, 134, 139, 140, Acute mountain sickness, 20, 198, tour operators & outfi tters, 141, 147 471 306–10, 324, 326–28 cuisine, 134 Adventure Life (Sacred Valley), useful information, 330–31 day trips from, 147 274, 437 visitor information, 331 getting there, 162 AeroCondor (Nasca), 107 Amazon Animal Orphanage and hotels, 10, 11, 135, 158–61 Aerodina (Nasca), 107 Pilpintuwasi Butterfl y Farm (near nightlife, 153 Aerolca (Nasca), 107 Iquitos), 297, 315 restaurants, 13, 139, 154–57 Aguas Calientes, 259 Amazonas Explorer (Cusco), 149, shopping, 140, 150 –53 hotels, 10, 288–90 276, 277, 443, 445 useful information, 162–63 restaurants, 283 Amazonas Sinchicuy (northern visitor information, 163 Airlines, 466. See also Fast Facts for Amazon), 327 Ari’s Burger (Iquitos), 318 specifi c cities/regions Amazon Explorama Lodges Artesanía. See Arts & handicrafts Alameda Chabuca Granda (Lima), (Iquitos), 326 Artesanías Mendivil (Cusco), 208 61 Amazonia Tours (Lima), 307 Artesanías Olave (Cusco), 208–9 Albergue Churup (Huaraz), 404 Amazon riverboats Arts & handicrafts, 429–30. See also Alegría Tours (Nasca), 107, 117 northern region, 296, 297, 324, Alpaca clothing boutiques; Markets Alfonso Sulca Chávez (Ayacucho), 327–28 Arequipa, 152–53 114 southern region, 29, 42, 296, Ayacucho, 93, 114 Al Grano (Cusco), 225 306–8 Cajamarca, 386–88, 396 Alhambra (Urubamba), 279 Amazon Yarapa River Lodge Chinchero, 14, 246, 251, 254 All Ways Travel (Puno), 178 (northern Amazon), 12, 326–27 Chivay, 143 Al Mi Manera (Cusco), 225 Amor a Mar (Lima), 73 Cusco, 26, 198, 208–9, 220–21, Alpaca clothing boutiques, 175. See Ampato (Colca Valley), 149 223 also Arts & handicrafts; Markets Ancient ruins. See Ruins & Lima, 47, 59, 69 –70 Arequipa, 140, 150 archaeological sites Máncora, 357 Cusco, 219 Andean Kayak (Puno), 172 Pisac, 24, 248–50, 251 Lima, 69 Andean Lodges (Sacred Valley), 274 Puno, 180 Puno, 180 Andean Treks (Cusco), 274, 277, Quinua, 36, 116 Urubamba, 251 278, 438 Urubamba, 251, 256 Alpacas, 175, 450 Andes. See High Andes Art y Comida (Arequipa), 154 Alpamayo (Cordillera Blanca), 393, Andina Travel (Cusco), 276, 278 Ary Quepay (Arequipa), 154 394 Andino Club Hotel (Huaraz), 404, Asociación Nacional de Caballos Alpes Andes (Huaraz), 397, 404 441 Peruanos de Paso (Lima), 87 Altiplano, 164–187 Angela’s Place (Máncora), 361 Astrid y Gastón (Lima), 13, 47, altitude, 178 Antica Pizzeria (Iquitos), 318 66, 73 getting around, 178COPYRIGHTEDAntica Trattoria (Lima), 73 MATERIALATMs, 468. See also Fast Facts for getting there, 186 Antigua Taberna Queirolo (Lima), 66 specifi c cities/regions hotels, 12, 182–85 Antiques shopping Aura/Gótica (Lima), 87 nightlife, 166, 185 Arequipa, 150–52 Ausangate (Sacred Valley), 272 restaurants, 181 Cusco, 219 Avenida La Paz (Lima), 59 shopping, 169, 180 Lima, 59, 69 Aventours (Cusco), 276–77 useful information, 186–87 Antonino (Ayacucho), 123 Ayacucho, 6, 36, 93, 110–15, 116 visitor information, 187 Apóstal Santiago festival (Puno), colonial mansions, 36, 112 Altitude sickness, 20, 198, 471 184 hotels, 128–29 Amantaní. See Isla Amantaní Apuandino Expediciones (Cusco), restaurants, 123 Amaru Hostal (Cusco), 232 276 Ayahuasca Amazon, 3, 294–331 Apumayo Expediciones (Cusco), Lima, 86 with children, 42 149, 276, 277, 443, 474 Pisac, 279

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Ayahuasca ceremonies, 457 Bird-watching, cont. Cajamarca, cont. northern Amazon, 321, 324 Islas Ballestas, 93, 95, 96, 97 restaurants, 401–3 southern Amazon, 297, 306 Parque Nacional Manu, 3, 296, shopping, 396 303, 309–10 California Café (Huaraz), 378, 397 b Reserva Nacional de Paracas, 93, Calle Cajamarca (Lima), 55 Backroads (Sacred Valley), 274, 438 96, 97 Calle Hatunrumiyoc (Cusco), 26, Baco (Cusco), 225, 238 Reserva Nacional de Tambopata, 198, 207 Bahía de Lagunillas, 97 302–3, 306–8 Callejón de Huaylas, 9, 372–74, 379, Bahía de Paracas, 94, 120, 124, 126 Reserva Nacional Pacaya Samiria, 382, 395, 409, 441–42, 444, Balcón de Cusco, 205–7 324–25 464, 393 Ballestas Travel Service (Pisco), 97 Bistro de Los Andes (Huaraz), 397 Calle Loreto (Cusco), 26, 204 Ballet (Lima), 87 Blue Puppy Lounge & Restaurant Calle Tandapata (Cusco), 209 Baños del Inca (Cajamarca), 390 (), 279, 282 Camino del Inca (Sacred Valley), 3, Baños Termales de Monterrey, Blues Bar Café 9, 247, 266–69, 278 379–80 Aguas Calientes, 259 Camping Bar Huaringas (Lima), 66, 73, 119 Ollantaytambo, 282 Colca Valley, 148 Barranco (Lima), 6, 30, 42, 46–47, Boat excursions. See also Kayaking Cordillera Blanca, 384, 392–93 54–55 Islas Ballestas, 93, 95, 97, 117 Parque Nacional Manu, 309, 310 Barrio Chino (Lima), 62 Lake Titicaca, 29, 42, 170–73 Reserva Nacional de Paracas, 117 Barrio de Belén (Iquitos), 297, northern Amazon, 296, 297, 315, Reserva Nacional de Tambopata, 314–15 324, 327–28 310 Barrio de San Blas (Cusco), 26, 28, southern Amazon, 29, 42, 296, Reserva Nacional Pacaya Samiria, 191, 198, 208–9 306–8 324 Barrio Santa Ana (Ayacucho), 114 Bodega Catador (near Ica), 101 Sacred Valley, 266–69, 272–74, Bars & clubs. See also Peñas; nightlife Bodega Juanito (Lima), 55 276–77 & entertainment for specifi c cities/ Bodega Ocucaje (near Ica), 101 Campo Santo (Yungay), 384 regions; specifi c bars and clubs Bodegas Vista Alegre (near Ica), 101 Candlemas (Puno), 166, 184 Aguas Calientes, 259 Bolivia, 180 Canopy walks (Amazon), 42, 296, Arequipa, 153 Brisas del Titicaca (Lima), 87 306, 326 Cajamarca, 3, 374, 407 Brujas (Arequipa), 153 Canta Rana (Lima), 74 Cusco, 190, 238–39 Brujas de Cachiche (Lima), 73 Caraz, 6, 374, 385, 400, 405 Huaraz, 407 Bungee jumping (near Cusco), 275 Carhuaz, 382–83, 400–401, 405 Lima, 3, 47, 55, 66, 86–87 Business hours, 469 Carlos Zárate Aventuras (Arequipa), Máncora, 361 Bus travel, 465, 466–67. See also Fast 149 Ollantaytambo, 282 Facts for specifi c cities/regions Carmen Alto (Cusco), 209 Puno, 166, 185 Butterfl y farms Carnaval Urubamba, 282 Iquitos, 297, 315 Cajamarca, 14, 373, 462 Batán Grande (near Chiclayo), 344 Puerto Maldonado, 299 Puno, 184, 462 Beaches. See also specifi c beaches Carnaval Ayacuchano, 116 Cabo Blanco, 354–56 c Car rentals, 469 Huanchaco, 39, 341, 349–50 Caballero de Fina Estampa (Lima), Car travel, 467 Laguna de Quistococha, 315 87 Casa Aliaga (Lima), 50, 60 Las Órganos, 356 Cabanaconde, 145, 161 Casa Andina Classic Las Pocitas, 351, 356 Cabo Blanco, 354–56 Arequipa Convento, 158 Máncora, 39, 351, 354, 356–57 Café Andino (Huaraz), 397 Colca (Chivay), 161 Puerto Bellavista, 315 Café Bar New York (Ayacucho), 123 Cusco Koricancha, 232, 441 Punta Sal, 357 Café del Museo (Museo Mirafl ores San Antonio (Lima), Reserva Nacional de Paracas, 96, Arqueológico Rafael Larco 82 97 Herrera, Lima), 53 Nasca, 117, 128 Vichayito, 351, 356 Café de Rat (Caraz), 400 San Blas (Cusco), 232–33 Zorritos, 357 Café Haiti (Lima), 59 Tikarani (Puno), 182 Belén. See Barrio de Belén Café Heladería El Abuelo (Carhuaz), Casa Andina Private Collection Biblioteca Amazónica (Iquitos), 314 383, 400–401 Arequipa, 10, 158 Biblioteca Nacional (Lima), 62 Café Mayu (Ollantaytambo), 252, Cusco, 233 Big Ben (Huanchaco), 358 279 Mirafl ores (Lima), 82 Big Foot Tours (Cusco), 278 Café Punchay (Cusco), 207 Puno, 182 The Birdhouse (Máncora), 357 Café Tostado (Lima), 73–74 Suasi (Isla Suasi), 12, 182 Bird-watching, 426, 439–40, 449. , 105–7 near Urubamba, 284 See also Cruz del Cóndor; Macaw Cajamarca, 6, 14, 39, 374, 386–91 Casa Andina Select (Chiclayo), 364 clay licks countryside tour, 390 Casa Arango (Arequipa), 141 Colca Canyon, 2, 8, 30, 33, 134, hotels, 11, 405–6 Casa Arequipa, 158 145 nightlife, 3, 374, 407 Casa Arróspide (Arequipa), 141

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Casa Bella B&B (Lima), 82 Central Highlands, cont. Churches, cont. Casablanca (Chivay), 156 restaurants, 123 Ayacucho, cont. Casa Calonge (Trujillo), 338, 348 useful information, 130–31 Templo de Santa Teresa, 112 Casa Cohen (Iquitos), 314 visitor information, 131 Templo de Santo Domingo, Casa de Barro (Iquitos), 312–14 Centro Comercial Larcomar (Lima), 115 Casa de Campo Hotel (Cusco), 233 59 Cajamarca Casa de Fierro (Iquitos), 312 Centro de Textiles Tradicionales del Capilla La Dolorosa, 388 Casa de Guias (Huaraz), 394 Cusco, 194 Catedral, 388 Casa de la Emancipación (Trujillo), Centro Q’osqo de Arte Nativo Iglesia Belén, 388–89 339 (Cusco), 239 Iglesia de San Francisco, 388 Casa de la Gringa (Cusco), 233 Cerro Santa Apolonia (Cajamarca), Chiclayo, Catedral, 350 Casa del Moral (Arequipa), 139 389 Chinchero, 254 Casa de Osambela-Oquendo Chachani (Arequipa), 149 Coporaque, Templo de (Lima), 61–62 Chachapoyas Tours, 391 Coporaque, 143 Casa Fitzcarrald (Iquitos), 312–14 Chala (Lima), 74 Cusco Casa Ganoza Chopitea (Trujillo), 340 Chalet Suisse (Huaraz), 400 Capilla del Tiunfo, 192–93 Casa Goyeneche (Arequipa), 141 , 7, 39, 334, 340, 349, Iglesia y Convento de San Casa Hernández (Iquitos), 314 414 Francisco, 200 Casa Hospedaje La Pascana Chavín de Huantar, 373, 380–81, La Catedral, 26, 28, 192–93 (Iquitos), 320 393, 413 Santo Domingo, 194 Casa Jáuregui (Ayacucho), 112 Chez Maggy Templo de la Compañía de Casa Morey (Iquitos), 314 Aguas Calientes, 283 Jesús, 193 Casa-Museo María Reiche (Nasca), Cusco, 225 Templo de La Merced, 202 105, 109 Chicha Templo de San Blas, 198, 208 Casa Orbegoso (Trujillo), 338–39 Arequipa, 13, 154 Ica Casa Ricketts (Arequipa), 141 Cusco, 191, 227 Iglesia de La Merced, 98 Casa Riva-Agüero (Lima), 50 Chichero, 251 Iglesia de San Francisco, 99 Casa San Blas Boutique Hotel Chichi Wasi (Urubamba), 282 Iglesia de San Jerónimo, 99 (Cusco), 233 Chiclayo, 39, 342, 350 Iquitos, Iglesia Matríz, 312 Casa Urquiaga (Trujillo), 338, 348 hotels, 364–65 Lari, Templo de la Purísima Cascanuez Café-Bar (Cajamarca), restaurants, 13, 360–61 Concepción de Lari, 144 388 Children. See Family travel Lima Cashpoints, 468. See also Fast Facts China Cocha (Cordillera Blanca), 381 Iglesia de San Pedro, 51, 62 for specifi c cities/regions Chinatown (Lima), 62 La Catedral, 50, 60 Casona Alvarado (Ica), 99 Chinchero, 246, 251, 254–56 La Merced, 62 Casona Boza y Solís (Ayacucho), 112 Chivay, 143, 148, 156, 161 San Agustín, 62 Casona Castilla y Zamora , 3, 7, 35, 246–47, 272 Puno, Catedral, 168 (Ayacucho), 112 Choquetico stone (near Maca), 146 Trujillo Casona Chacón (Ayacucho), 112 Chucuito, 178 Catedral, 336, 348 Casona Colonial El Portón (Ica), 99 Churches Iglesia de La Merced, 339 Casona del Marqués de Torre (Ica), Arequipa Iglesia y Monasterio El 99 Catedral, 138 Carmen, 339–40 Casona de Santa Catalina Iglesia de La Merced, 141 Cicciolina (Cusco), 13, 227 (Arequipa), 140 Iglesia de San Agustín, 141 Circuito Mágico del Agua (Lima), Casona Deza Café (Trujillo), 340 Iglesia de San Francisco, 141 42, 51 Casona les Pleiades (Cusco), 233 Iglesia de Santo Domingo, 141 Clothing (fashion) Cusco, Casona Olano (Ayacucho), 112 La Compañía, 139 221–22. See also Alpaca clothing Casona Ruiz de Ochoa (Ayacucho), Monasterio de Santa Teresa, boutiques 112 141 Club Colonial (Huanchaco), 358, Catedral. See Churches Parroquia de Yanahuara, 139 362 Cathedrals. See Churches Ayacucho, 6, 36, 112, 113, 115 Coca, 316–17 Caves & cave art (Cueva de Catedral de Ayacucho, 110, 113 laws, 469 Guitarreros, near Carhuaz), 383 San Francisco de Asís, 115 Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge (Parque Cayesh, 393 San Francisco de Paula, 115 Nacional Manu), 309, 310 Cedros Gorge (Cordillera Blanca), Santa Clara de Asís, 115 Cojup Valley (Cordillera Blanca), 393 Templo de la Compañía de 393 Ceiba Tops (northern Amazon), 326 Jesús, 115 Cola de Mono Canopy (near Machu Cellphones, 465 Templo de La Merced, 115 Picchu), 275 Cementerios de Chauchilla, 107 Templo del Arco, 113–14 Colca Canyon, 2, 9, 30, 134, 148 Central Highlands, 90–92, 93, 110–16 Templo de San Cristóbal, 112 Colca Geyser, 148 getting there, 130 Templo de Santa María Colca Lodge (Yanque), 12, 161 hotels, 128–29 Magdalena, 115 Colca Trek (Arequipa), 149, 441, 443

220_9780470890714_bindex.indd0_9780470890714_bindex.indd 484484 11/13/12/13/12 112:202:20 PMPM index 485

Colca Valley, 6, 8, 30, 33–34, Currency, 472 e 132–34, 142–47 Cusco, 24, 26, 28, 34, 188–241 Earthquake of 2001, 140 colonial villages, 6, 30, 143, 144, altitude, 198 Easter Week (Ayacucho), 14, 116, 145–46 Centro Histórico, 28, 204–7 353, 463 getting around, 144, 146 with children, 41–42 EcoAmazonia Lodge (Reserva getting there, 162 cuisine, 191 Nacional de Tambopata), 306 hotels, 12, 161 getting around, 241 Eco Montana (Urubamba), 276, 443 outdoor adventures, 9, 33–34, getting there, 240 Ecosystems, 422 135, 148–49 hotels, 10, 11, 191, 207, 230–36 Ecotourism, 436–39 Edgar restaurants, 156 Inca walls, 15, 26, 41, 191, 198, Adventures (Puno), 178 tour operators & outfi tters, 149 204–7 Educational travel, 445–46 useful information, 162–63 movie theater, 239 Edward’s Inn (Huaraz), 404 visitor information, 163 nightlife & entertainment, 190, Ekeko’s (Puno), 185 Colonial casonas. See Colonial 237–39 Eko Club (Cusco), 239 mansions restaurants, 13, 197, 199, 200– El Albergue (Ollantaytambo), 11, 284 Colonial House Inn (Arequipa), 201, 224–29 El Andariego Hostal (Cusco), 233 158–59 shopping, 215, 218–23 El Bar del Huerto (Urubamba), 279 Colonial mansions Talleres de Artesanía, 208–9 El Batán (Cajamarca), 401 Arequipa, 134, 139, 140, 141, 147 tourist ticket, 202, 250 El Buen Pastor Panadería (Cusco), Ayacucho, 36, 112 useful information, 240–41 209 Ica, 98–99 visitor information, 241 El Cabildo Hostal (Cajamarca), 405 Iquitos, 15, 312–14 Cusco Highlands, 24–27 El Califa (Puerto Maldonado), 300 Lima, 15, 26, 28, 46, 50, 60, Cusipata Viajes y Turismo El Candelabro (Reserva Nacional de 61–62 (Arequipa), 149 Paracas), 95–96 Trujillo, 15, 334–35, 338–39, 346, Customs regulations, 469 El Chorito (Bahía de Paracas), 120 348 d El Cuarto de Rescate (Cajamarca), Complejo Arqueológico de Huari 389 (Ayacucho), 36, 114–16 Dance, traditional, 430. See also Electricity, 470 Conchamarca, 268 Festivals & special events El Encanto del Colca (Chivay), 156 Condors (Colca Canyon), 2, 8, 30, Dánica (Lima), 74 El Estaquería (Cahuachi), 107 33, 134, 145, 455. See also Cruz Dawn on the Amazon (Iquitos), El Fayke Piurano (Lima), 74 del Cóndor 324, 328 El 550 (Lima), 74–76 Conjunto Monumental de Belén Dawn on the Amazon Café (Iquitos), El Huacachinero (Laguna de (Cajamarca), 15, 39, 388–89 314, 318 Huacachina), 117, 124 Consulates, 470 DCO Suites, Lounge & Spa (Las El Huacatay (Urubamba), 256, 280 Convento de San Francisco (Lima), Pocitas), 11, 366 El Kero (Trujillo), 341 51 Dead Woman’s Pass (Inca Trail, El Lago Resort (Sabandía), 147 Convento de Santa Catalina Sacred Valley), 247, 266 El MaPi (Aguas Calientes), 288 (Arequipa), 2, 15, 29–30, 33, 134, Dédalo (Lima), 55 El Mercado (Lima), 13, 76 136–38, 140, 157 Déjà Vu (Arequipa), 153 El Misti (Arequipa), 149 Convento de Santo Domingo De Rompe y Raja (Lima), 87 El Mochica (Trujillo), 358 (Lima), 61 Desaguadero, 180 El Monasterio (Ayacucho), 123 Convento y Museo de Santa Dining, 431–33. See also specifi c El Negrito (La Catedral, Cusco), 194 Catalina (Cusco), 26, 196–97 restaurants; Where to Dine sections El Nido (Chivay), 156 Coporaque, 143, 161 best, 13 El Nuevo Mesón (Iquitos), 318–19 Cordillera Blanca, 9, 375, 382–85 customs, 433 El Otro Peñoncito (Ica), 120 Coropuna (Colca Valley), 149 tipping, 474 El Peñon (Huanchaco), 358 Corpus Christi festival (Cusco), 206 useful words & phrases, 67, El Pisquerito (Cusco), 238 Costa Azul Hotel & Spa (Zorritos), 480–81 El Portal del Marqués (Cajamarca), 366 Disabilities, travelers with, 474–75 405 Costa del Sol (Chiclayo), 364 Donde Teresa (Las Pocitas), 361 El Portón (Nasca), 122 Country Club Lima Hotel, 10, 82–83 Don Hono (Nasca), 122 El Querubino (Cajamarca), 401 Crepisimo (Arequipa), 154 Don Manuel (Pisco), 120 El Rincón Que No Conoces (Lima), The Cross Keys (Cusco), 238 Don Porfi rio (Lima), 87 76 Cruz del Cóndor (Colca Canyon), Doubletree Guest Suites by Hilton El Truco (Cusco), 239 30, 33, 145 (Bahía de Paracas), 124 El Viñedo (Arequipa), 156 Cuesta de San Blas (Cusco), 208 Drinking laws, 469–70 Embassies, 470 Cueva de Guitarreros (near Driving, 467, 469 Emergencies, 470, 472 Carhuaz), 383 Drug laws, 469 Enigma (Cusco), 277, 278 Cumbe Mayo, 7, 39, 374, 390 Dune buggies (Southern Desert Environment, 423–24 Cumbe Mayo Tours (Cajamarca), Coast), 33, 93, 117 Eric Adventures (Cusco), 276, 277, 391 443

220_9780470890714_bindex.indd0_9780470890714_bindex.indd 485485 11/13/12/13/12 112:202:20 PMPM 486 index

Erika Lodge (Parque Nacional Food & drink, cont. High Andes, cont. Manu), 309 pisco sour, 14, 92–93, 100, 101, getting there, 408 Espíritu Pampa, 274 118–19 hotels & lodges, 11, 373, 404–5 Estadio Fútbol Club (Lima), 86 sashimi, 334, nightlife, 407 Estadio Nacional (Lima), 87 shops (Cusco), 222–23 outdoor adventures, 392–95 Expediciones Vilca (Cusco), 310 useful words & phrases, 67, restaurants, 397–401 Explorama Lodge (northern 480–81 shopping, 396 Amazon), 326 wineries (Southern Desert tour operators and outfi tters, 381, Explorandes (Cusco), 278 Coast), 100, 101 392–95 Explorandes (Huaraz), 393, Football (soccer; Lima), 87 useful information, 408–9 437 Fortress ruins (Ollantaytambo), 7, visitor information, 409 Explorer’s Inn (Reserva Nacional de 25, 40, 211, 253 Hiking & trekking, 444 Tambopata), 12, 307, 440 Forum Rock Café (Arequipa), 153 Colca Canyon, 9, 148 ExplorNapo (northern Amazon), 326 Cordillera Blanca, 9, 374, 375, Extrem (Cusco), 239 g 379, 384, 392–93 Galaxia Mountain Shop (Huaraz), Sacred Valley, 266–78 f 395 Ausangate, 272 Fair Trade Store (Puno), 169, 180 Galería Arte Popular de Fortunato Choquequirao, 3, 9, 35, Fallen Angel: The Guest House Fernández (Ayacucho), 114 246–47, 272 (Cusco), 11, 234 Galería Ayllu (Quinua), 116 Espíritu Pampa, 274 restaurant, 227 Galería Familia Sánchez (Quinua), , 26, 41, 247, Family travel 116 265 Amazon, 42 Galería Latina (Ayacucho), 114 Inca Trail, 3, 9, 247, 266–69, Cusco, 41–42 Galería Wari (Ayacucho), 114 275, 278 Lake Titicaca, 42 Gay & lesbian travelers, 470 Pinkuyllana, 275 Lima, 42 Glaciar Pastoruri (Cordillera Blanca), Pumamarca, 275–76 , 41 379 Salcantay, 9, 272–74 Sacred Valley, 40–41 Globos de los Andes (Cusco), 276, Salineras de Maras, 275 Farrens Irish Pub (Arequipa), 153 441 Vilcabamba, 274 Fashion (clothing) Cusco, 221–22. Govinda (Arequipa), 156 Southern Desert Coast, 117 See also Alpaca clothing Gran Hotel El Golf (Trujillo), 362 , 410–21 boutiques Granja Heidi (Cusco), 227 Hobo Hideout Travelers Hotel Ferrocarril Central Andino Railroad, Granja Porcón (near Cajamarca), (Iquitos), 320 54 390 Holidays, national, 471 Festival de la Virgen de la Candelaria The Green House (near Urubamba), Horno Colonial Santa Lucía (Pisac), (Puno), 14, 166, 184, 353, 462 284 250 Festivals & special events, 352–53, Greens (Cusco), 227 Horseback riding, 441 462–64. See also specifi c festivals GreenTracks Amazon Cruises Colca Valley, 33, 148 Fiesta (restaurant; Trujillo), 360 (Iquitos), 324, 328 Sacred Valley, 276 Fiesta de las Cruces (Cusco), 206 Gringo Bill’s Hostal (Aguas Hospedaje Turístico San Blas Fiesta de las Cruces Alasitas (Puno), Calientes), 288 (Cusco), 234 184 Grumpy’s Snack Bar (Nasca), 122 Hospital de Hombres (Cajamarca), Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen Gruta 100 (Cajamarca), 407 389 (Paucartambo), 14, 206, 353, Guanacos, 175, 450 Hospital de Mujeres (Cajamarca), 462 389 Fiesta Restaurant Gourmet h Hostal Bracamonte (Huanchaco), Chiclayo, 13, 360 Hacienda Tacama Bodega (near 362 Lima, 76 Ica), 101 Hostal Casa de Campo Urubamba, Film industry, 427 Handicrafts. See Arts & handicrafts 284–86 Film Lounge & Danish Café (Cusco), Hang gliding (Cordillera Blanca), 392 Hostal Continental (Aguas 239 Health concerns, 470–71 Calientes), 290 Flora & fauna, 174–75, 422–23, altitude sickness, 20, 198, 471 Hostal El Marqués de Valdelirios 448–59 Hearts Café (Ollantaytambo), 280 (Ayacucho), 128–29 Flotantes. See Islas Flotantes Heath River Wildlife Center (Reserva Hostal El Patio de Monterrey Folk art. See Arts & handicrafts Nacional de Tambopata), 307 (Huaraz), 404 Food & drink, 431–33. See also Heladería Gustitos del Cura (Puerto Hostal El Patio Mirafl ores (Lima), 83 Markets Maldonado), 299 Hostal El Tambo (Ollantaytambo), ayahuasca, 297, 306, 321, 324, Heladería Holanda (Cajamarca), 390 287 457 Helados Artika (Arequipa), 139 Hostal Iskay (Ollantaytambo), 286 ceviche, 46, 65, 79, 334, 357 High Andes, 370–73, 374–85, Hostal La Florida (Ayacucho), 129 chicha, 280 392–409 Hostal La Ñusta (Ollantaytambo), coca plant, 316–17, 458 getting around, 409 287

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Hostal Las Américas (Ayacucho), Hotel Libertador INC (Instituto Nacional de Cultural; 129 Arequipa, 159 Cusco), 264 Hostal Las Orquideas Lake Titicaca, 182–84 Incabar (Puno), 181 (Ollantaytambo), 287 Plaza Mayor Trujillo, 363 Inca Baths Tours (Cajamarca), 391 Hostal Los Uros (Puno), 182 Hotel Majoro (Nasca), 128 , 414–16 Hostal Machu Picchu (Aguas Hotel Monasterio (Cusco), 10, 207, beliefs & worship, 270–71 Calientes), 288 235 building methods & design, Hostal Marani (Cusco), 234 Hotel Mossone (Laguna de 210–11 Hostal Nuñez (Arequipa), 159 Huacachina), 126 emperors, 207 Hostal Pachacútec (Aguas Hotel (Nasca), 128 Inca Explorers (Cusco), 278 Calientes), 290 Hotel Pakaritampu (Ollantaytambo), Inca Lodge (Lima), 83 Hostal Paz y Luz (Pisac), 286 286 Inca mummy (Juanita; Museo Hostal Perla de Los Andes (Caraz), Hotel Paracas (Bahía de Paracas), Santuarios Andinos, Arequipa), 405 10, 117, 126 134–35, 138–39 Hostal Plaza (Cajamarca), 406 Hotel Pisaq (Pisac), 286 Incanto (Cusco), 227 Hostal Portada del Sol (Cajamarca), Hotel Posada del Puruay Inca Roca (Cusco), 41, 207 406 (Cajamarca), 11, 406, 441 Inca ruins. See Ruins & Hostal Portada del Sol Hacienda Hotel Río Sagrado (Urubamba), 286 archaeological sites (Cajamarca), 406, 441 Hotel Santa Cruz (Huaraz), 404–5 Inca Trail (Sacred Valley), 3, 9, 247, Hostal Posada Hispana (Pisco), 124 Hotel Santa Rosa (Ayacucho), 129 266–69, 278 Hostal Resbalosa (Cusco), 234 Hotel Señorial (Lima), 83 , 178 Hostal Rocha (Nasca), 117 Hotel Tres Máscaras (Ayacucho), Inca walls (Cusco), 15, 26, 41, 191, Hostal Royal (Chiclayo), 364 129 198, 204–7 Hostal Rumi Punku (Cusco), 207, Hot springs. See Thermal baths Indio Feliz (Aguas Calientes), 283 234 Huacachina. See Laguna de Inka Grill (Cusco), 227–28 Hostal Sauce (Ollantaytambo), 286 Huacachina Inkallpa Valle Sagrado Lodge & Spa Hostal Villa Manuelita (Pisco), Huacachina Tours (Ica), 97 (near Urubamba), 286–87 124–26 (Huacas de InkaNatura (Parque Nacional Hostería San Roque (Lambayeque), Moche), 348 Manu), 309, 475 364 (Huacas de Moche), Inka Pub Monte Rosa (Huaraz), 400 Hostería Suiza (Laguna de 348 Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Huacachina), 117, 126 (Lima), 7, 57–58 Hotel (Aguas Calientes), 10, Hot-air ballooning, 441 Huacas de Moche, 39, 341, 348, 413 288, 440 Sacred Valley, 276 Huajsapata Park (Puno), 169 INRENA (Peruvian parks authority) Hotel Alegría (Nasca), 128 Hualca Hualca (Colca Valley), 149 Iquitos, 324 Hotel & Spa Laguna Seca Huanchaco, 39, 335, 341, 349–50 Lima, 324 (Cajamarca), 406, 441 hotels, 362, 363 Instinct Travel (Cusco), 276, 277, Hotel Antigua Mirafl ores (Lima), 83 restaurants, 358 443 Hotel Caballito de Totora Huanchaco International Hotel, 363 Instituto Nacional de Cultural (INC; (Huanchaco), 362 Huaraz, 376–81 Cusco), 264 Hotel Cabañaquinta (Puerto hotels, 404–5 Internet access, 471. See also Fast Maldonado), 300 nightlife, 407 Facts for specifi c cities/regions Hotel Cantayo Spa & Resort restaurants, 397–400 Intipunku (Machu Picchu), 265, 269 (Nasca), 117, 122–23, 128 shopping, 396 Intiqa Hotel (Puno), 184 Hotel Colonial (Trujillo), 362 Huaraz Chavín Tours, 381 Inti Raymi festival (Cusco), 14, 190, Hotel Colón Inn (Puno), 182 Huascarán (Cordillera Blanca), 394 206, 353, 464 Hotel Costa del Sol (Cajamarca), Huayllabamba, 266, 284 Iquitos, 15, 312–15, 322–24 406 Huayna Picchu (Sacred Valley), 26, colonial mansions, 15, 312–14 Hotel Don Carlos Puerto 41, 247, 265 hotels, 320–21 Maldonado, 300 Huayoccari (Sacred Valley), 277, restaurants, 318–19 Hotel El Arqueólogo (Cusco), 234 280 Ishinca (Cordillera Blanca), 394 Hotel El Dorado Plaza (Iquitos), 320 Huayoccari Hacienda Restaurant Isla Amantaní (Lake Titicaca), 29, Hotel El Ingenio (Cajamarca), 406 (Sacred Valley), 280 42, 167, 173 Hotel Embajador (Chiclayo), 364 Huiñay Huayna, 269 Islas Ballestas, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 117 Hotel España (Lima), 83 Islas Flotantes (Lake Titicaca), 29, Hotelier Arte y Cocina (Máncora), i 42, 170–72 366 Ica, 98–100 Isla Suasi (Lake Titicaca), 166, 173, Hotel Kuntur Wasi (Cabanaconde), colonial mansions, 98–99 182 161 restaurants, 99, 120, 122 Islas Uros (Lake Titicaca), 29, 42, Hotel La Casona (Iquitos), 320 Iglesia. See Churches 170–72 Hotel Las Dunas Sun Resort (Ica), Iguana’s Place (Máncora), 361 Isla Taquile (Lake Titicaca), 29, 42, 126, 441 Il Valentino (Trujillo), 360 166, 172

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j La Casa de Mi Abuela Hostel La Posada del Conde Jack’s Café Bar (Cusco), 228 (Arequipa), 160 (Cabanaconde), 161 Jewelry La Casa de Pocha (Carhuaz), 405 La Posada del Parque Hostal (Lima), Arequipa, 153 La Casa Fitzcarraldo (Iquitos), 320 83–84 Cusco, 223 La Casa Morey (Iquitos), 320–21 Lari, 144 Lima, 70 La Casa Nostra (Puerto Maldonado), La Red (Lima), 76 Jhon (Chiclayo), 360 300 La Retama (Cusco), 239 JM Expeditions (Huaraz), 394 La Casa Suiza (Huanchaco), 363 La Reyna (Arequipa), 160 Jorge Chávez International Airport La Casona Las Bóvedas (Trujillo), 360 (Lima), 465 Ayacucho, 123 Las Cabañas (Chucuito), 185 Jr. Bolognesi (Nasca), 102 Cusco, 10, 235 Las Cañas (Nasca), 123 Jr. Lima (Puno), 169 Puno, 181 Las Casitas del Colca (Yanque), Juan Garboza (Cusco), 209 La Catedral (Reserva Nacional de 161, 441 Juanita (Inca mummy; Museo Paracas), 96 Las Chullpas (Urubamba), 277, 287 Santuarios Andinos, Arequipa), La Chupitería (Cusco), 238 Las Delicias (Lima), 65 134–35, 138–39 La Cremería (Cajamarca), 390 LA 73 (Lima), 76 Juli, 178–79 La Encantada (Nasca), 123 La Sirena d’ Juan (Máncora), 361 Jungle La Estación de Barranco (Lima), 87 Las Líneas (Nasca), 123 health precautions, 303 Lago Sandoval (Reserva Nacional de Las Pallas (Lima), 55 northern Amazon, 296, 297, Tambopata), 299 Las Pocitas, 334, 351, 356, 361, 366 312–15, 318–29 La Gran Maloca (Iquitos), 319 Las Quenas (Arequipa), 153 southern Amazon, 8, 29, 42, Laguna Churup (Cordillera Blanca), La Taberna (Nasca), 103, 123 296–311 393 La Tertulia (Cusco), 228–29 Jungle Expeditions (Iquitos), 324, Laguna de Huacachina, 93, 98, 101, La Tía Fela (Bahía de Lagunillas), 97 328 124, 126 La Tienda de Comercio Justo (Puno), Laguna de Quistococha, 315 169, 180 k Laguna Parón (Cordillera Blanca), La Trattoria del Monasterio Kamikase (Cusco), 239 385 (Arequipa), 157 Kamizaraky Rock Pub (Puno), 185 Lagunas de Llanganuco (Cordillera La Truffa (Arequipa), 157 Kantuta Lodge (Isla Amantaní), Blanca), 372, 381, 384, 385, La Vaca Loco (Cajamarca), 403 184–85 392–93 La Villa de Ica, 120 Kayaking (Lake Titicaca), 2, 166, 172 La Hacienda Hotel (Puno), 185 Lazy Dog Inn (Huaraz), 405 KB Tambo Hotel (Ollantaytambo), Lakes. See entries starting with “Lago” Legal aid, 471 287 & “Laguna” Libertador Palacio del Inka (Cusco), Kibosh (Arequipa), 153 Lake Titicaca, 2, 29, 164–67, 168–73 235 Kids. See Family travel altitude, 178 Libraries. See entries starting with Killa Wasi (Urubamba), 280 with children, 42 “Biblioteca” Kitesurfi ng (Northern Coast), 357 getting around, 173 Lima, 15, 26, 28, 30, 35, 44–89 Km. O (Cusco), 239 getting there, 186 with children, 42 , 7, 39, 373–74, 391 hotels, 12, 182–85 colonial mansions, 15, 26, 28, 46, Kusicoyllor (Ollantaytambo), 280 nightlife, 166, 185 50, 60, 61–62 Kusikuy (Cusco), 228 restaurants, 181 cuisine, 2, 46, 47, 64–67, 78–79 Kusillo’s Pub (Puno), 185 shopping, 169, 180 getting around, 89 K’uychi Rumi (Urubamba), 287 useful information, 186–87 getting there, 88 visitor information, 187 hotels, 10, 11, 81–84 l La Magia Negra (Ayacucho), 116 nightlife & entertainment, 47, 66, La Bajada de Baños (Lima), 55 La Maison d’Elise (Arequipa), 160 85–87 La Cabaña Boutique Hotel (Aguas La Mammacha (Cusco), 228 restaurants, 13, 46, 47, 50, 53, Calientes), 290 La Mansíon del Fundador (near 58, 62, 66, 72–80 La Calera hot springs (Colca Valley), Arequipa), 147 shopping, 47, 59, 68–71 30, 144 La Mar Cebichería (Lima), 76 useful information, 88–89 La Campañía cloisters (Arequipa), 140 Lambayeque, 342, 350–51, 364 visitor information, 89 La Canasta (Arequipa), 156–57 La Miel (Ayacucho), 112 Lima Centro, 15, 26, 28, 46, 48–51, La Casa de la Abuela (Cajamarca), La Mina (Paracas Peninsula), 97 60–62 401–3 Lampa, 167, 179 Limo (Cusco), 13, 119, 229 La Casa del Corregidor (Puno), 169 Language, 471 Liquor laws, 469–70 La Casa de Mama Yacchi classes, 445–46 Literature, 425–27 (Coporaque), 161 useful words & phrases, 67, Llamas, 175, 450 La Casa de Mariposas (Puerto 476–81 Llanganuco. See Lagunas de Maldonado), 299 La Noche (Lima), 87 Llanganuco La Casa de Melgar Hostal La Pampa (near Quinua), 116 Llanganuco Lodge (Yungay), 405 (Arequipa), 11, 160 La Parra (Chiclayo), 361 , 266

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Llulluchapampa, 266 Manu Nature Tours, 310, 443 Monttrek (Huaraz), 392, 393, Llullucharoc, 266 Manu tented camps, 309 394–95, 441, 442 Logia Unión Amazónica (Iquitos), 314 Manu Wildlife Center, 309, 310, Monttrek Pub (Huaraz), 407 Lord of the Earthquakes (La 439–40 Monumento Arqueológico de Catedral, Cusco), 194 MAP (Museo de Arte Precolombino; Wilcahuaín (Huaraz), 379 Loreto Tours (Cusco), 277 Cusco), 195 , 26, 256 Los Apus Hotel & Mirador (Cusco), MAP Café (Cusco), 229 Mountain Bike Adventures (Huaraz), 235 Marcelo Batata (Cusco), 238 393, 442 Los Balcones de la Recoleta Markets. See also entries starting with Mountain biking, 442–43 (Cajamarca), 406 “Mercado” Colca Valley, 33–34, 135, 148 Los Balcones de Moral y Santa Arequipa, 152–53 Cordillera Blanca, 9, 393 Catalina (Arequipa), 160 Ayacucho, 112 Sacred Valley, 276 Los Choritos Mágicos (Pisco), 122 Cajamarca, 386–88, 396 Mountain climbing, 444 Los Frailones (Cajamarca), 407 Chiclayo, 39, 335, 342, 350 Arequipa, 148–49 Los Horcones de Túcume, 364 Chinchero, 14, 246, 251, 254 Colca Valley, 149 Los Leños (Arequipa), 157 Chivay, 143 Cordillera Blanca, 9, 393, 394–95 Los Órganos, 356 Cusco, 200, 222–23 Mountain Lodges of Peru (Sacred Los Perros (Cusco), 199, 238 Huaraz, 396 Valley), 274, 437, 439 Los Piños Lodge (Caraz), 405 Iquitos, 315 Mountain Travel Sobek (Sacred Los 13 Bujos (Huaraz), 407 Lima, 47, 58, 59, 64, 70 Valley), 274, 438 Lost property, 471 Máncora, 59, 357 MountClimb (Huaraz), 395 Lucía de la Puenta (Lima), 55 Ollantaytambo, 251, 253 Movie theater (Cusco), 239 Pisac, 24, 248 –50, 251 Museo Amazónico (Iquitos), 314 m Puerto Maldonado, 298–99 Museo Antonini (Nasca), 103 Maca, 146, 148 Puno, 180 Museo Arqueológico Cassinelli Macaw clay licks (southern Mayuc (Cusco), 277, 278, 310 (Trujillo), 340 Amazon), 3, 296, 303, 307, 308, Medical care, 470–71 Museo Arqueológico de Ancash 309, 310, 456 altitude sickness, 20, 198, 471 (Huaraz), 376 Machu Picchu, 3, 7, 26, 28, 211, Mercado Central (Cajamarca), Museo Arqueológico Hipólito 242–47, 253, 259, 260–65. See 386–88, 396 Unanue (Ayacucho), 113 also Inca Trail Mercado de Belén (Iquitos), 315 Museo Arqueológico Nacional with children, 41 Mercado de San Pedro (Cusco), Brüning (Chiclayo), 342 ecosystem, 247 200, 222–23 Museo Arqueológico Rafael Larco getting there, 264, 269, 292 Mercado de Surquillo (Lima), 58, Herrera (Lima), 15, 28, 42, 52–53 tickets, 264 64, 70 Museo Cabrera (Ica), 99 useful information, 292–93 Mercado Indio (Lima), 59, 70 Museo Café Bar (Trujillo), 341, 348, visitor information, 293 Mercado Modelo 360 Machu Picchu Cultural Center Chiclayo, 39, 335, 342, 350 Museo Catedrático (Trujillo), 336 (Aguas Calientes), 264 Puerto Maldonado, 298–99 Museo de Arqueología (Caraz), 385 Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge Mercado 12 de Abril (Ayacucho), 112 Museo de Arqueología y Etnografía (Aguas Calientes), 290 Mirador de los Andes (Colca Valley), (Cajamarca), 389 Maga Mis Suspiros (Lima), 65–66 143 Museo de Arte Colonial Pedro de Magic Fountain (Lima), 51 Mirador de Los Lobos (Reserva Osma (Lima), 55 Mail, 472 Nacional de Paracas), 97 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Makondo’s (Huaraz), 407 Mirador de Ocolle (Colca Valley), (Cusco), 201 Malecón Tarapacá (Iquitos), 314 144 Museo de Arte de Lima (MALI), 51 MALI (Museo de Arte de Lima), 51 Mirador de Rataquenua (Huaraz), Museo de Arte Moderno de Trujillo, Mama Africa (Cusco), 239 378 341 Máncora, 6, 39, 351, 354, 356–57 Mirador de San Blas (Cusco), 209 Museo de Arte Precolombino hotels, 11, 366–67 Mirador Kuntur Wasi (Puno), 169 (Cusco), 26, 195 nightlife, 361 Mirafl ores (Lima), 58–59 Museo de Arte Religioso restaurants, 361 Mirafl ores Park Hotel (Lima), 84 Cusco, 202–3 Máncora Kite Club, 357 Mobile phones, 465 Lima, 50 Máncora Kite Surf, 357 Moche civilization 341, 413 Museo de la Coca (Cusco), 209 Mansion del Fundador (Arequipa), Mojsa (Puno), 181 Museo de la Inquisición (Lima), 140 Monasterio de la Recoleta 50–51 Manu Cloud Forest Lodge, 310 (Arequipa), 140 Museo de la Memoria (Ayacucho), Manu Ecological Adventures Money, 472 112–13 (Cusco), 276, 309 Montañero Aventura y Turismo Museo de la Nación (museum; Manu Expeditions (Cusco), 277, (Huaraz), 394 Lima), 56 310, 441 Montreál Le Café Art (Arequipa), Museo de la Nación (theater; Manu Lodge, 310 153 Lima), 87

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Museo del Juguete (Trujillo), 340 Northern Coast, cont. Parque Nacional Manu, 296, 303 Museo de Miniaturas del Perú hotels, 11, 334, 362–67 getting there, 310 (Huaraz), 376 nightlife, 361 tour operators & outfi tters, Museo de Oro del Perú (Lima), 57 restaurants, 13, 341, 348, 358–61 309–10 Museo de Sitio (Chinchero), 256 useful information, 368–69 Parque Principal (Chiclayo), 350 Museo de Sitio Julio C. Tello visitor information, 369 Pasaje Bolognesi (Nasca), 102 (Reserva Nacional de Paracas), Northern Highlands, 370–72, 373– Pasaje Catedral (Arequipa), 140 96 74, 386–409 Pasaje Lima (Puno), 169 Museo Histórica Regional (Cusco), getting around, 409 Paseo de las Musas (Chiclayo), 350 201 getting there, 408 Paseos Amazónicas (Iquitos), 324, Museo Inka (Cusco), 203 hotels, 11, 405–6 327 Museo Municipal Carlos Dryer nightlife, 3, 374, 407 Passports, 472 (Puno), 168 outdoor adventures, 392–95 Paucarpata, 147 Museo Nacional de Arqueología, restaurants, 401–3 Paucartambo, 14, 216 Antropología e Historia (Lima), shopping, 396 Peñas. See also Bars & clubs; nightlife 52 tour operators & outfi tters, & entertainment for specifi c cities/ Museo Nacional Sicán (near 392–95 regions Chiclayo), 39, 344, 351 useful information, 408–9 Arequipa, 153 Museo Regional de Ica, 100 visitor information, 409 Cajamarca, 3, 374, 407 Museo Santuarios Andinos Novotel Cusco, 236 Chivay, 156 (Arequipa), 30, 134–35, 138–39 Nueva Castilla (Ica), 122 Lima, 3, 47, 87 Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán Peña Usha Usha (Cajamarca), 3, (Lambayeque), 15, 39, 334, 342, o 374, 407 350–51 Olaza’s Bed & Breakfast (Huaraz), People & culture, 424 Museums, best, 15. See also entries 405 Pepe Zeta (Cusco), 238–39 starting with “Museo” Ollantaytambo, 6, 25, 251, 252–53 Perol Chico (Urubamba), 276, 441 Music, traditional, 427–29 fortress ruins, 7, 25, 40, 211, 253 Peru Discovery (Sacred Valley), 276, Mystery Peru (Nasca), 107, 117 hotels, 11, 284, 286, 287 277, 443 nightlife, 282 Peru for Less (Sacred Valley), 274, n old town, 25, 244, 252 437 Nanasca Tours (Nasca), 107 restaurants, 279, 280, 282 Peruvian Paso horses, 87, 463 Nasca, 32, 102 –5 shopping, 251 Pescados Capitales, 76–78 airplane & helicopter tours, 107 Olleros, 393 Pharmacies, 472 hotels, 128 Om-Gri (Cajamarca), 403 Phuyupatamarca, 268 restaurants, 103, 122–23 Opera (Lima), 87 Picas (Lima), 86, 119 Nasca Lines, 2, 32–33, 92, 102, Orígenes (Vichayito), 334, 356 Picoaga Hotel (Cusco), 236 103–4, 107, 108–9, 414 Orquídea Real Hostal (Cusco), 236 Pikillacta (near Cusco), 217 Nasca observation tower, 104 Orquídeas de San Pedro (Parque Pinchollo, 148 Nasca Trails (Nasca), 107 Nacional Manu), 309 Pink Parrot (Máncora), 366 Nasca Travel (Nasca), 107 (Sacred Valley), 275 National parks p Pisac, 24–25, 40, 247, 248–52 Parque Nacional Huascarán, 8, Pablo Tours (Huaraz), 381 hotels, 286 375 Pacamayo, 268 restaurants, 250, 279, 282 Parque Nacional Manu, 296, 303, Pachapapa (Cusco), 229 Pisco 309–10 Package tours, 434–47 Cordillera Blanca, 394 Reserva Nacional de Paracas, 8, Paddy Flaherty’s (Cusco), 238 Southern Desert Coast, 94, 120, 93, 94–97 Palacio del Gobierno (Lima), 48, 60 122, 124–26 Reserva Nacional de Tambopata, Palacio Episcopal (Lima), 48, 60 Pizza Bruno (Huaraz), 400 29, 302–3, 306–8 Palacio Iturregui (Trujillo), 339 Pizzería El Buho (Puno), 181 Reserva Nacional Pacaya Samiria, Palacio Nik-An (Chan Chan), 349 Pizzería Trattoria El Hornito (Puerto 324–25 Palacio Torre Tagle (Lima), 50, 62 Maldonado), 300 Reserva Nacional Salinas y Pantiacolla Lodge (Parque Nacional Playa El Chaco (Reserva Nacional de Aguada Blanca, 142 Manu), 310, 440 Paracas), 94–95 Nightlife & entertainment. See Bars Paracas Necropolis (Reserva Plaza de Armas & clubs; Peñas; specifi c cities/ Nacional de Paracas), 97 Arequipa, 29, 138 regions Paragliding (Lima), 35, 59 Cajamarca, 388 Niños Hotel (Cusco), 11, 235–36 Pariwana Hostel Cusco, 26, 28, 190, 192, 205 Northern Amazon, 296, 297, 312–15, Cusco, 236 Iquitos, 312–14 318–29 Lima, 84 Puerto Maldonado, 298 Northern Coast, 332–69 Parque del Amor (Lima), 59 Trujillo, 336, 346–48 getting around, 356, 369 Parque Kennedy (Lima), 59 Urubamba, 256 getting there, 368 Parque Nacional Huascarán, 8, 375 Plaza de Barranco (Lima), 55

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Plaza de las Nazareñas (Cusco), 207 Rainforest Expeditions (Reserva Ruins & archaeological sites, cont. Plaza de San Blas (Cusco), 208 Nacional de Tambopata), 308 Cajamarca, Conjunto Plaza de Yanahuara (Arequipa), 139 Refugio Amazonas (Reserva Monumental de Belén, 15, 39, Plaza Mayor Nacional de Tambopata), 308 388–89 Ayacucho, 110 Reserva Amazónica Lodge (Reserva Caraz, Tunshucaiko, 385 Lima, 48, 60 Nacional de Tambopata), 12, Cementerios de Chauchilla, 107 Plaza Regocijo (Cusco), 201 42, 306 Chan Chan, 7, 39, 334, 340, 349, The Point Máncora Beach, 366–67 Reserva Nacional de Paracas, 8, 93, 414 Police, 470, 472 94–97 Chavín de Huantar, 373, 380–81, Pollos a la Brasa La Estrella (Puerto Reserva Nacional de Tambopata, 393, 413 Maldonado), 300 29, 302–3 Choquequirao, 3, 7, 35, 246–47, Pony Expeditions (Caraz), 393, lodges, 12, 306–8 272 395, 442 Reserva Nacional Pacaya Samiria, Choquetico, 146 Portachuelo (Cordillera Blanca), 324–25 Chucuito, Inca Uyo, 178 393 Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada Complejo Arqueológico de Huari, Posada Amazonas lodge (Reserva Blanca, 142 36, 114–16 Nacional de Tambopata), 307–8 Restaurant Don Piero (Puno), 181 Cumbe Mayo, 7, 39, 374, 390 Posada Las Tres Marias Restaurante Demarco (Trujillo), 360 Cusco, 191 (Urubamba), 287 Restaurante El Huarango (Nasca), Puca Pucara, 213–14 Positive Vibrations (Puno), 185 123 Q’enko, 213 Post offi ces, 472 Restaurant El Catamarán (Pisco), Qoricancha, 15, 26, 191, 194, Poto Blanco (Máncora), 361 122 211 Poza del Barro (near Máncora), 357 Restaurant Fitzcarraldo (Iquitos), Sacsayhuamán, 7, 26, 28, 34, Praia Bar (Máncora), 361 319 41, 191, 199, 211, 212–13 Puca Pucara (Cusco), 213–14 Restaurant Huaca Pucllana (Lima), , 214 Pucara (Cusco), 229 58, 80 Temple of the Sun, 15, 26, 191, Pueblo Viejo (Aguas Calientes), 283 Restaurant-Pastelería Anita (Ica), 194, 211 Puente de los Suspiros (Lima), 55 99, 122 Templo del Sol, 15, 26, 191, Puerto Bellavista, 315 Restaurants. See also specifi c 194, 211 Puerto Maldonado, 298–99 restaurants; Where to Dine sections Espíritu Pampa, 274 hotels & restaurants, 300–301 best, 13 Huacas de Moche, 39, 341, 348, port, 299 tipping, 474 413 Pumamarca, 275–76 useful words & phrases, 67, Huiñay Huayna, 269 Puno, 166, 168 –69 480–81 Kuélap, 7, 39, 373–74, 391 altitude, 178 Restaurant Salas (Cajamarca), 403 Lima, Huaca Pucllana, 7, 57–58 hotels, 182, 184, 185 Restaurant Velasco (Ica), 122 Llaqtapata, 266 nightlife, 166, 185 Rico’s Pan (Puno), 181 Llulluchapampa, 266 restaurants, 181 Río Chili (Arequipa), 149 Llullucharoc, 266 shopping, 169, 180 Río Colca (Colca Canyon), 135, 149 Machu Picchu, 3, 7, 26, 28, Puno Week, 166, 184, 464 Río Cotahuasi (Colca Canyon), 149 41, 211, 242–47, 253, 259, Punta Sal, 357 Río Madre de Dios (southern 260–65 Punta Veleros (Los Órganos), 356 Amazon), 306 ancient doorway, 262 Putukusi (Sacred Valley), 259 Río Majes (Colca Canyon), 149 Caretaker’s Hut, 260 Pyramid Adventures (Huaraz), 395 Río Tambopata (southern Amazon), fountains, 262 307 Funerary Rock, 260 q River cruises, 441 House of the Priest, 264 Q’enko (Cusco), 213 northern Amazon, 296, 297, 324, Intihuatana, 264 Q’Ente (Cusco), 278 327–28 Intipunku, 265, 269 Qoricancha (Cusco), 15, 26, 191, southern Amazon, 29, 42, 296, moat, 260 194, 211 306–8 Plaza Central, 265 Quebrada Quillcayhuanca, 393 River dolphins, pink (northern Principal Temple, 264 Quinta Los Geranios (near Amazon), 3, 296, 325, 326, 327, Puente Inca, 265 Urubamba), 282 454 quarry, 262 Quinua, 36, 114, 116 River otters, giant (southern Royal Sector, 262 Amazon), 3, 42, 296, 299, 303, Royal Tomb, 262 r 307, 310, 452 Sacred Plaza, 262–64 Rainforest Rock climbing (Cordillera Blanca), Sacred Rock, 264 health precautions, 303 395 Sacristy, 264 northern Amazon, 296, 297, Ruins & archaeological sites, 7, Sun Gate, 265, 269 312–15, 318–29 210–11 Temple of the Condor, 265 southern Amazon, 8, 29, 42, Batán Grande, 344 Temple of the Moon, 265 296–311 Cahuachi, 105–7 Temple of the Sun, 262

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Ruins & archaeological sites, cont. Sandboarding (Southern Desert Steel Guest House (Huaraz), 405 Machu Picchu, cont. Coast), 9, 33, 92, 117 Street addresses, 467 Temple of the Three Sandoval Lake Lodge (Reserva Suasi. See Isla Suasi Windows, 262–64 Nacional de Tambopata), 42, 307 Sumac Machu Picchu Hotel (Aguas Monumento Arqueológico de Sandra (Ayacucho), 113 Calientes), 290 Wilcahuaín, 379 San Fernando, 93, 117 Sun Gate (Machu Picchu), 265, 269 Moray, 26, 256 San Juan de Dios festival (Puno), Surfi ng, 443 Nasca 184 Northern Coast, 9, 334, 348, Acueductos de Cantalloc, 105 San Juan festival (Puno), 184 354, 357 Nasca Lines, 2, 32–33, 92, San Pablo festival (Puno), 184 Swissraft-Perú (Cusco), 277, 445 102, 103–4, 107, 108–9, 414 San Pedro festival (Puno), 184 Ollantaytambo, fortress ruins, 7, Santa Cruz trek (Cordillera Blanca), t 25, 40, 211, 253 374, 384, 392 –93 Taberna El Tambo (Huaraz), 407 Pikillacta, 217 Santos (Lima), 86 Tahuayo Lodge (northern Amazon), Pisac, 24–25, 40, 247, 248 –50, Santuranticuy Festival (Cusco), 12, 327 250–52 206, 464 Talleres de Artesanía (Cusco), 208–9 Pumamarca, 275–76 SAS Adventure Travel (Cusco), 278, Tambo Amazónico (northern , 217 310, 437 Amazon), 327 Runcuracay, 268 Satchmo (Lima), 87 , 100 , 268 Sayacmarca, 268 Tambomachay (Cusco), 214 , 176–78, 414 Scena (Lima), 86 Tambopata EcoLodge, 308 Tambo Colorado, 100 Scenic overlooks. See entries starting Tambopata Research Center, 308 Templo de Sipán, 344, 413 with “Mirador” Tambo Viejo (Arequipa), 161 Tipón, 217 Second Home Tambo Yanayacu (northern , 147 Cusco, 236 Amazon), 327 Tres Cruces, 216–17 Peru (Lima), 11, 84 T’anta (Lima), 50, 80 Túcume, 7, 39, 345, 351 Segundo Muelle (Lima), 80 Taquile. See Isla Taquile , 390 Semana Santa festival Taxes, 473 Vilcabamba, 274 Ayacucho, 14, 116, 353, 463 Taxis. See Fast Facts for specifi c cities/ Zaña, 344 Cusco, 206, 463 regions Rumicolca (near Cusco), 217 Seminario, Pablo (Urubamba), 251, Telephones, 473–74 Runa Wasi (Máncora), 361 256–58 Temple of the Sun (Cusco), 15, 26, Runcuracay, 268 Senior travelers, 473 191, 194, 211 Rupa Wasi Condor House Ecolodge 7 Angelitos (Cusco), 239 Templo del Sol (Cusco), 15, 26, 191, (Aguas Calientes), 290 Shaman (Puno), 185 194, 211 Siam de Los Andes (Huaraz), 400 Templo de San Cristóbal s Siete Culebras (Cusco), 207 (Ayacucho), 112 Sabandía, 147 Sillustani, 176–78, 414 Templo de Santa Teresa (Ayacucho), Sacred Valley, 2, 8, 35, 242–93 Sipán Tours, 344 112 with children, 40–41 Siwara (Arequipa), 153 Templo de Sipán (near Chiclayo), getting around, 293 Smoking, 473 344, 413 getting there, 292 Soccer (Lima), 87 Textiles, 14, 172, 175, 429–30. See hotels, 10, 11, 247, 284–87, Solar Rosario (Chivay), 156 also Alpaca clothing boutiques; 288–90 Sol de Mayo (Arequipa), 157 Arts & handicrafts; Markets nightlife, 259, 282 Sol y Luna Lodge & Spa (Urubamba), Thermal baths outdoor adventures, 35, 274–78 287, 441 Colca Valley, 30, 33, 135, 144, 161 restaurants, 250, 252, 256, Sonesta Hotel El Olívar Lima, 84 High Andes, 379–80 279–82, 283 Sonesta Posadas del Inca Northern Coast, 357 shopping, 251 Arequipa, 160 Northern Highlands, 390 tour operators & outfi tters, Lake Titicaca, 185 Sacred Valley, 259 274–78 Sacred Valley, 287, 441 3B: Barranco’s Bed & Breakfast useful information, 292–93 Sophie Bistró (Lima), 13, 80 (Lima), 11, 84 visitor information, 293 Southern Amazon, 8, 29, 42, Ticllabamba Maison d’Hôtes (near Sacsayhuamán (Cusco), 7, 26, 28, 296–311 Urubamba), 287 34, 41, 191, 199, 211, 212–13 Southern Desert Coast, 90–109 Time zone, 474 Safety, 472–73 getting there, 130 Tinto & Asado (Arequipa), 139 Salcantay (Sacred Valley), 9, 272–74 hotels, 10, 93, 124 –28 Tipón (near Cusco), 217 Salineras de Maras, 25, 35, 246, outdoor adventures, 33, 93, 117 Tipping, 474 258, 275 restaurants, 97, 99, 103, 120–23 Toilets, 474 getting there, 258 tour operators & outfi tters, 117 Toro Muerto, 147 Salón Capón (Lima), 80 useful information, 130–31 Torre Dorada (Cusco), 236 San Blas. See Barrio de San Blas visitor information, 131 Toshiro’s (Lima), 13, 80

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Toto’s House (Aguas Calientes), 283 Victoria Regia (Iquitos), 321 Tourist offi ces, 475. See also Fast Vicuñas, 175, 451 Facts for specifi c cities/regions Vilcabamba, 274 Tourist season, 462 Visitor information, 475. See also Tradición Arequipeña (Arequipa), Fast Facts for specifi c cities/regions 157 Volcano climbing Train travel, 2, 54, 466. See also Fast Colca Valley, 149 Facts for specifi c cities/regions Volunteer travel, 447 Traveling to and around Peru, 465–67 w Travel insurance, 471 Wallpa Sua (Ayacucho), 123 The Tree House (Aguas Calientes), Wa Lok (Lima), 80 283 Wari Tours (Ayacucho), 114 Trekking. See Hiking & trekking Wasaí Maldonado Lodge (Puerto Tres Cruces (near Paucartambo), Maldonado), 300 216–17 Wasaí Tambopata Lodge & Research Tres i Punto (Lima), 62 Center, 300 Tres Keros (Urubamba), 282 Wasipunko Nasca, 117 Trips, special interest, 434–47 Water, drinking, 471 Trotamundos (Cusco), 193–94 Weather, 464–65 Trujillo, 39, 332–45, 336–41, 346–48 Websites, useful, 475 colonial mansions, 15, 334–35, Wheelchair access, 474–75 338–39, 346, 348 White Ass Bar (Máncora), 361 getting there, 368 White-water rafting, 444 hotels, 362–63 Amazon, 9, 310 restaurants, 341, 348, 358, 360 Arequipa, 149 useful information, 368–69 Colca Canyon, 9, 149 visitor information, 369 Cordillera Blanca, 9, 395 Túcume, 7, 39, 345, 351, 364 Sacred Valley, 9, 35, 277 Tunshucaiko (Caraz), 385 Wilderness Travel (Sacred Valley), Tunupa 274, 439 Cusco, 239 Wineries (Southern Desert Coast), Urubamba, 282 100, 101 Tunupa Restaurant & Pizzeria Witite (Chivay), 156 (Urubamba), 282 Woven goods, 14, 175, 429–30. See 12-Angled Stone (Cusco), 41, 198 also Alpaca clothing boutiques; Two Nations Café (Cusco), 197, 229 Arts & handicrafts; Markets u xyz Ukuku’s X-Treme (Huaraz), 407 Cusco, 239 Yanahuara (Arequipa), 139 Puno, 181 Yanque, 146, 148, 161 Ulrike’s Café (Pisac), 282 Yavarí (Lake Titicaca), 169 United Mice (Cusco), 278 Yungay, 383–85, 405 Uros Floating Islands. See Islas Uros Yunguyo, 180 Urpillay Tours (Ayacucho), 114 Zaña (near Chiclayo), 344 Urubamba, 256 Zarcillo Connections (Pisco), 97 hotels, 286, 287 Zig Zag (Arequipa), 157 nightlife, 282 Zip-lining restaurants, 279–80, 282 Amazon, 12, 296, 309, 327 shopping, 251 Sacred Valley, 275 Zorritos, 357, 366 v Vaccinations, 471 Vagamundo Travelbar & Maps (Huaraz), 407 Varayoc Café (Cusco), 200–201 Ventanillas de Otuzco, 390 Via Via Ayacucho, 129 Vichayito (Máncora), 351, 356, 367 Vichayito Carpas & Bungalows (Máncora), 367

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Photo Credits

Note: l= left; r= right; t= top; b= bottom; c= center

Cover Photo Credits: Front cover (l to r): © Roussel Images/Alamy; © Gavin Hellier/Jon Arnold Images Ltd./Alamy; © David Noton Photography/Alamy; Back cover (t and b): © Pilar Olivares; © Pilar Olivares; Cover fl ap (t to b): © Melanie Christoforou/Alamy; © Robert Harding Picture Library/SuperStock; © Stock Connection/ SuperStock; © James Brunker/Alamy; Inside front cover (clockwise from tr): © Tom Graham/Alamy; © Pilar Olivares; © Thornton Cohen; © Dado Galdieri; © Thornton Cohen; © Pilar Olivares; © Pilar Olivares; © Thornton Cohen; © Thornton Cohen. 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