Heritage Modern: Cityscape of the Late Socialist Political Economy in Trinidad, Cuba By Maki Tanaka A dissertation submitted in partial satisfaction of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Anthropology in the Graduate Division of the University of California, Berkeley Committee in charge: Professor Nelson H. H. Graburn, Chair Professor James Holston Professor Joseph L. Scarpaci Professor Ananya Roy Spring 2011 Heritage Modern: Cityscape of the Late Socialist Political Economy in Trinidad, Cuba © 2011 by Maki Tanaka Abstract Heritage Modern: Cityscape of the Late Socialist Political Economy in Trinidad, Cuba By Maki Tanaka Doctor of Philosophy in Anthropology University of California, Berkeley Professor Nelson H. H. Graburn, Chair The overall theme of this dissertation is to understand, through the heritage cityscape of Trinidad, aspects of the processes of the reconfiguration of political economy in today’s Cuba. In late socialist Cuba, tourism is a key sector sustaining the revolution, and heritage cityscape constitutes one of the main tourist attractions. In this regard, the city of Trinidad provides a vantage point to analyze heritage practices and the tourism economy. I argue that the heritage cityscape of Trinidad manifests a tension between neoliberal and socialist rationalities, as the preservation office is converted into a cultural agency that depends on its own entrepreneurship. In 1988, the historic urban center of Trinidad and the material remains of the sugar industry in the surrounding Sugar Mill Valley were declared a World Cultural Heritage site. The local agency in charge of its preservation is the Office of Conservation, the main site of this project. These local agencies and preservation professionals around the world produce and are produced by the global regime of heritage exemplified by UNESCO’s World Heritage program. Although economic management is not the explicit end of heritage practices, to the extent that these agents are held morally accountable for the material conditions of the heritage sites, and that their insufficient performance is construed as unsuccessful entrepreneurship, the global regime of heritage operates by a neoliberal rationality. Maintaining a good cityscape signals good governance, and consequently success as a subject of the regime. In Trinidad, where tourism is the single most important industry, the city’s future depends exclusively on heritage commodification; maintaining and restoring the past urban form. I call this looking forward through looking backward “heritage modern.” While the actual heritage cityscape is not materialized in the way that the Office imagines it to be the “good cityscape,” signaling the precarious state of the Office as the subject in the global regime, the Office maintains a firm grip on the discursive landscape over Trinidad’s heritage. Thus within the tension between neoliberal and socialist rationalities, the Office claims to be the appropriate guardian of the local specificity of heritage within the global regime. 1 Para mis queridos amigos de Cuba. i Table of Contents Dedication Table of Contents List of Figures and Tables Acknowledgements CHAPTER ONE 1 Introduction: The landscape of fieldwork CHAPTER TWO 23 The Office of Conservation of the City of Trinidad and the Sugar Mill Valley CHAPTER THREE 48 Three palaces: Heritage memories and practices in Trinidad, Cuba CHAPTER FOUR 65 Mobility and socialist vanguard: Entrepreneurship of the Cuban “traditional” music CHAPTER FIVE 87 Dressed up and sipping rum: Local activities within the touristic space CHAPTER SIX 99 Comparative aesthetics of heritage cityscapes: Old Havana and Trinidad CONCLUSION 116 Trinidad’s heritage modern Bibliography 125 ii List of Figures and Tables Figures 1.1 Map of Cuba 1.2 Map of Trinidad Region 1.3 Map of Trinidad Historic Center 2.1 Organizational Chart of the Office of Conservation of the City of Trinidad and the Sugar Mill Valley (as of 2008) 2.2 “Contamination”: Restoration in violation of the building code 2.3 House being remodeled by private foreign investment 3.1 Palacio Béquer 3.2 Palacio Cantero 3.3 Palacio Iznaga 3.4 Torre Iznaga 6.1 Colegio San Gerónimo in Havana 6.2 Hotel Iberostar Trinidad 6.3 Restored gate at Colegio San Gerónimo 6.4 Colegio San Gerónimo in the colonial cityscape 6.5 Hotel Iberostar construction Tables 2.1 Restoration work in Trinidad 1974-1992 iii Acknowledgements In this adventure in studying anthropology thus far, I have accumulated many debts, not just financially, but intellectually and in friendship. At UC Berkeley, Professor Nelson Graburn has been an exceptional teacher and mentor, and showed consistent interest in my work, even when I was most skeptical of it. Being a student of Professor Graburn’s has also meant infinite encounters with wonderful scholars and colleagues around the world. Professor James Holston took me in even at a later stage in my graduate career, and always gave a positive outlook on matters. I owe Professor Ananya Roy for her constructive comments and criticism that often gave shape to my inarticulate thoughts. In the late Professor Allan Pred’s seminar, I had the fortune to discover Bejamin and my passion for the urban. Outside of the Berkeley campus, Professor Joe Scarpaci introduced me to Trinidad, Cuba, and has continuously offered me encouragement and support. Professor Takako Kudo saved me from giving up Cuba as my fieldwork site. With similar interest in Cuba though with far more sophistication, Matthew J. Hill has generously shared his thoughts and works with me. I owe special thanks to the staff at the Department of Anthropology, at UC Berkeley, who are always cheerful, helpful, and ready to guide us through the maze of the university. I have been privileged to have met friends with whom I can share academic interests and much, much more. M. Mather George and Jeff Piatt have been my support group in and out of the department. Naomi Leite has been my virtual writing partner, and our daily email exchange kept me sane and going forward. I coerced Cathy Covey to co-chair with me the Tourism Studies Working Group 2009-2010, and I could not have made a better decision. Charlie Carroll and Rachel Giraudo kept inspiring me by their integrity and enthusiasm. Lina Tegtmeyer reminded me to be a human before anything else, while being a dedicated reader of my writing. Laura Hubbard taught me how to teach, which I have come to cherish dearly. I met Yoko Ikari in an awkward twist of events, yet we turned out to have much more in common than pursuing anthropology. John Ertl has time and again responded with efficiency to my plea for assistance. Two important groups shaped my graduate career in many ways. The Tourism Studies Working Group at UC Berkeley has been a hub of vibrant activities drawing people from all over the world. I thank especially Stephanie Malia Hom, Naomi Leite, and Charlie Carroll for starting the group with Professor Graburn, and those who nourished this community: Jenny Chio, Alexis Bunten, Theo Chronis, Clare Fischer, Bert Gordon, Alex Saragoza, Eric Crystal, Rongling Ge, Lu Jin, Mahlon Chute, Jennifer Devine, David Picard, Lina Tegtmeyer, Mark Dewitt, Scott McLeod, among many more. The University of California-wide UC-CUBA offered remarkable opportunities for in-depth and interdisciplinary academic exchange over Cuba, and I owe my special gratitude to Professor Raul Fernandez, Tom McEnaney, and Ayesha Nibbe. In Cuba, I am grateful to the Fundación Fernando Ortíz for providing me with an institutional home. Vicky and Annia, whom I got to know thanks to Mather, made me feel at home and with family in Havana. Mercedes, Coki, and Ramsés opened doors, offered me insights, and above all, nurtured genuine friendship with me. Carlos taught iv me photography with tremendous dedication. Yansert, Víctor, and Annielys always made me laugh while telling me important things. Lisbeth and Edelys made sure that I had what I needed. Lisette with incredible generosity shared her knowledge and experience with me. Víctor, Teresita, and Alicia offered me their wealth of knowledge and passion for Trinidad. Loly and Estela provided me with more than care and comfort. The people on América Street made sure I knew how to enjoy the beach. Greeting Aragón started my day in Trinidad. I spent so many extraordinary moments with the members of Septeto Montimar. To all these Cubans, I dedicate this dissertation. Lastly, I owe my thanks to my family for letting me take on this adventure. And I am thankful to Joel, who kept calling this dissertation “a paper” throughout the process, which fortuitously lifted, at times, the unnecessary weight I had imbued upon it. v Curriculum Vitae Maki Tanaka 1232 19th Street #12, Oakland, CA 94607 Email: [email protected] Cell: (510) 292-8095 EDUCATION University of California, Berkeley Ph.D. Anthropology (Sociocultural anthropology) May 2011 Dissertation: “Heritage modern: Cityscape of the late socialist political economy in Trinidad, Cuba.” Dissertation Committee: Nelson Graburn (Chair), James Holston, Ananya Roy, Joseph Scarpaci School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London, UK MA Social Anthropology of Development Nov. 1997 Thesis: “Fantasy, exploitation and ambiguity: Aspects of sexual encounters between Thai women and Japanese men” Supervisor: Andrew Turton Waseda University, Japan BA Humanities Mar. 1996 TEACHING EXPERIENCE University of California, Berkeley Taught undergraduates as Graduate Student Instructor (GSI) and Reader in the following courses. As GSI, gave supplementary lectures and conducted in-class exercises to further students’ understanding of lectures and readings. Developed exam questions and paper assignments with the professor. Held office hours, advised students, graded students’ papers and exams, and gave final grades. As reader, held office hours, advised students, graded papers, and gave final grades. Reading & Composition in Anthropology, Instructor: As the instructor, will Summer 2011 design, teach, and evaluate an undergraduate seminar of 15 students on tourism (scheduled) and anthropology.