A house boat chugs through the bucolic backwaters of Kerala. DISCOVERIES + TRENDS TRENDS + NEWS NEWS

Where to Go in 2016 These are the 16 buzziest destinations you need to know this year, including one of Thailand’s most blinged-out beaches, Australia’s next

KEREN SU/GETTY IMAGES great foodie haven and Papua New Guinea’s luxury lakeside retreat.

/ here&now / w h e r e t o g o i n 2 0 1 6

IN THE CIMMERIAN GREEN WATERS of Lake Canggu, Bali Go Fish Murray—a colossal 2,000-square-kilometer Sun-wizened surfers HERE’S HOW TO GET THE A NEW LUXURY ECO-LODGE lagoon bracing the border with Indonesian- have been riding the MOST OUT OF KOCHI’S OPENS LAKE MURRAY, IN PAPUA controlled West Papua—live monsters both real waves off the island’s CULTURAL SCENE WHILE NEW GUINEA, TO ECOTOURISTS. and imagined: man-eating saltwater crocodiles; a southwestern coast for Nessie-like creature said to be a relative of the YOU’RE IN KERALA. decades. But with a crop theropod dinosaur family; and Niugini black bass, the strongest kilo-for-kilo freshwater fish on Earth and Holy Grail of anglers in the Southern Hemisphere. Yet until recently of Australia-inflected, the only way to see Papua New Guinea’s largest lake was as a guest of the reclusive eclectic establishments canoe-borne hunter-gatherer tribes that live on its shores. Enter Trans Niugini Tours, designed to appeal to a an award-winning ecotourism company that runs six luxury lodges in the highlands relaxed crowd, it’s and a fleet of light aircraft, buses and speedboats. The firm’s newest property,Lake recently become favored Murray Lodge (pngtours.com), is 100 percent solar-powered and set on an island in the for more than just its middle of the lake. There’s a plantation-style clubhouse with wraparound decking; 12 breaks. The hip Frii Bali stilt-leg cabins with en-suite private balconies; and a commercial kitchen where local Echo Beach (frii​hotels. women, who until recently hadn’t tasted nor even seen foreign food, prepare steaks, com; doubles from THE BIENNIAL fried rice, garden salads and chocolate cake for hungry fisherman whose days are Rs560,000) provides a The winter event runs from spent hunting black bass on the lake. Bird-watchers should take note too, for Lake December until March 2017, and Murray is home to more than half of the country’s spectacular avifauna, including welcome antidote to the will be curated by Sudarshan hornbills, eagles and the fabled birds of paradise. – IAN LLOYD NEUBAUER island’s mainstream Shetty, known for his site-specific resorts with its simple installations. The exhibits will include works from up-and-coming rooms and Balinese Indian artists, as well as accents. Guests can try international big guns—Anish paddleboarding, water Kapoor participated in 2014 (above). yoga or muay Thai—if they’re not too busy lounging on beanbags around the two pools. There’s also a group of expat-run restaurants geared to the active: Milk & Madu (milkandmadu.com; mains Rs70,000- Rs95,000) specializes in GALLERY-HOPPING fresh juices and wood- The biennial has breathed life into fired pizzas, and the the city’s galleries. Must-visits concrete-clad Crate (fb. T+L’S TOP PICK include the Aspinwall House, David com/cratecafebali) café Hall, Kashi Art Gallery (above), Moidu’s Heritage and Pepper does hearty smoothies Backwater Bliss House. And contemporary art has and feta-tempeh wraps. A lush stroke across India’s Malbar Coast, Kerala’s landscapes spilled over into the streets: Old Man’s surf spot is the are pure art. By Christopher Kucway graffiti-inspired murals sit One of Lake Murray’s monster best place to watch the alongside landmarks like the catches. ABOVE, FROM LEFT: Paradesi Synagogue. Lake Murray Lodge is set on an sunset and have an I DON’T THINK anyone actually told me to Kerala’s backwaters zigzag through ice-cold Bintang beer. lush green forests unlike anywhere else in island in the middle of the lake; get lost, but I was. On purpose. I opted to paddling the wild waters. After dark, a line of the world. Beyond that, if you’re a go native and hopped on what is surfboard-laden proponent of travel as a window onto how essentially a floating bus through the motorbikes leads to tranquil backwaters of Kerala. There I others live, a day or three spent here is a Deus (deuscustoms.com; toured for the morning and where I ended great classroom. This is India, so you are mains Rs55,000- up, I had no clue. It was a village not on forced to slow down to the local pace. Rs165,000), a restaurant, any guidebook map, my lunch options Mobile phone reception is spotty, the down to the lone restaurant in the sights intriguing. bar, music venue and art hardscrabble spot. But the thali was In 2016, Kochi, the historic center of gallery that’s the excellent, almost as good as the few hours this state, will host the third Kochi-Muziris cultural heart of Canggu. spent watching school kids make their Biennale (kochimuzirisbiennale.org), the CHIC STAY For the most action, go in country’s influential contemporary art The redesigned Trinity (malabar​ May or October, when way to class and adults transport the house.com; doubles from €300) is necessities of daily living—that’s how I event. We’ve rounded up the ideal an eight-room guesthouse with a Deus hosts two major thought of the man with a branch laden art-centric itinerary for your time in modern aesthetic behind its surf competitions, with with ripening bananas—as human Kochi (right) and from canals and historic façade. Inside you’ll find pros Harrison Roach and vehicles in perhaps the calmest, cleanest waterways to murals and canvases, colorful furniture and lithographs Zye Norris scheduled to by modernist master M.F. Husain, rush hour you’ll ever encounter. Kerala is one stunning exhibit. HOUSE OF MALABAR COURTESY GALLERY; ART OF KASHI COURTESY BIENNALE FOUNDATION; KOCHI DHEERAJ THAKUR/COURTESY JOE LASKY/GETTY IMAGES; FROM TOP: CLOCKWISE (3) NEUBAUER IAN LLOYD compete. — LESLIE PATRICK considered the godfather of contemporary Indian art. — DEEPANJANA PAL 20 JANUARY 2016 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM Take a five-minute walk to thequaint (nationalmuseum.sg; admission S$10). community known as the .community married with Malays inthis region, a more about early Chinesesettlers who S$6) admission musem.org.sg; past at the country’s oldest museum, the Peranakan Museum Peranakan National Museum of FRIDAY | OF OF RETREATCHINESE THE CLASSIC the Lake Lady of 22 re / GOES UPSCALE. a museum-hoppingweekend inbustling Singapore. makes thistheperfecttimetoplan The recentopeningoftheNationalGallery Mad About Museums

he HANGZHOU

JANUARY 2016 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM away Two hours restaurant. Coming soon is is soon Coming strawberry. with ricotta house-made amazing Vongerichten, serves Jean-Georges chef from RMB68-RMB268), mains 86-571/8190-5656; downtown food scene is no less refined: refined: less no is scene food downtown The West Lake. near open will city, the in property second group’s the pathways on which to stroll through a bamboo forest. abamboo through stroll to which on pathways (thehiddenhouse.cn; doubles from RMB800), Midtown Shangri-La Hangzhou Shangri-La Midtown AMILLENNIUM, THAN MORE FOR that makes liberal use of its eponymous blue. Later this year, the 417-room 417-room the year, this Later blue. eponymous its of use liberal makes that RMB1,200), the riverside riverside the is newcomer notable most The suit. followed have restaurants and hotels its sophisticated, increasingly become have residents Hangzhou’s as and landings, private-jet accepts now airport The wealthiest. China’s of one is city the Hangzhou), in are headquarters (Alibaba’s industries tech and manufacturing the to Thanks West Lake. vast Hangzhou’s to drawn been Get anoverviewof Singapore’s

a Luxury Collection hotel designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon Rochon Pierre-Yves by designed hotel Collection aLuxury & (above; peranakan Azure Qiantang Azure Wujie now , a branch of Shanghai’s celebrated vegetarian vegetarian celebrated Shanghai’s of , abranch to find out

in Xinfeng Village is the new new the is Village Xinfeng in

(starwoodhotels.com; doubles from from doubles (starwoodhotels.com;

RMB980), from doubles (shangri-la.com;

/ e r e h w artists, traders and explorers have have explorers and traders artists, Oon Oon recommend of fine dining choices on site, but we from Southeast Asia. There’s no shortage world’s largest collectionofmodern art a day-long visitto tour thehere deserves S$20) (above; nationalgallery.sg; admission SATURDAY | for its servings of hearty local dishes. of hearty for its servings Mercato Piccolo Mercato (violetoon.com; dinner for two S$80) two for dinner (violetoon.com; a hideaway with picturesque picturesque with ahideaway , the newest and grandest museum Piccolo. Piccolo. Mercato at ricotta The Qiantang. LEFT: the Azure at A restaurant

o t National Kitchen By Violet Violet By Kitchen National National Gallery Singapore National Gallery

— o g

CRYSTYL MO MO CRYSTYL

(1 Wulin Square; Square; (1 Wulin Hidden House

n i

6 1 0 2

visit lotus-shaped S$21) admission nus.edu.sg; design and technology. science, variety of exhibitions onart, S$15)from atMarinaBay Sands and its (above; marinabaysands.com; admission of other coolspecimens at three sauropod dinosaur fossils and tons and out over the Serengeti. the over out and crater the into both views with com) Ngorongoro Entamanu eco-friendly Nomad’s geodesic tents, June, in and have sevenwill glass-fronted the slopes of the Olmoti Volcano, Highlands Asilia’s options: Two upcoming tentedbreed of high-end camps. new the at Area Conservation Ngorongoro and plains Serengeti popular the in privacy sight. in vehicle another without walks and wildlife drives—all guided offer will it trees, baobab with asavanna overlooking ahill on Set lions. and leopards elephants, like wildlife with seldom-visited teeming area a Park, National Ruaha in lodge luxurious truly first the open as camps. low-key in staying mean to used Tanzania’s more remote parks trip A safari Tanzania’s National Parks SUNDAY | Chian Natural History Museum Chian Natural History It is still possible to have have to possible still is It Asilia is set to open eight tents— eight open to set is That’s about to change, about to change, That’s Venture west to checkout the

(asilia , opening in March on March in , opening

(nomad through through ArtScience Museum ArtScience ​africa.com)

— — MELANIE LEE — MELANIE

JANE BROUGHTON JANE tanzania. ​ Lee Kong Kong Lee . Backintown,

(lkcnhm. will will

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF PERANAKAN MUSEUM; DARREN SOH; COURTESY OF ; COURTESY OF AZURE QIANTANG; COUTESY OF MERCATO PICCOLO

FROM TOP: ALBERTO BUZZOLA; COURTESY OF TARSIER BOTANIKA due to an emphasis on a design-led approach to urban urban to approach a design-led on emphasis an to due largely earned was award that While 2016. for Capital Design World crowned be to bid successful their into energy and money oftime, a lot invested fathers city Meanwhile, OMA. by Center Arts Taipei Performing much-anticipated the is city the dotting sites building prominent the Among effect. visceral more to talents its channeling been has class creative capital’s the recently, more But industries. world’s tech the in names biggest the for components electronic realizing for famous once was country The hubs. architecture and design TAIWAN’S CAPITAL IS EMERGING as one of Asia’s most dynamic dynamic most ofAsia’s one as PHILIPPINE ISLAND FRESH PULL. FRESH ISLAND PHILIPPINE THIS GIVING ARE RESORTS NEW Bohol’s Bolt-holes Taipei Taipei is blossoming into an architectonic arcadia. arcadia. an architectonic into blossoming is Slicker City Slicker cocktail intheiropen-air lounge. for ponytrail rides and dressage classes. Or you can relax and sit back with a sunset Tarsierthe clearbluewaters out front, or head up to their sister property Equestria of 2016. are set to open the first quarter You can get a massage attheirspa,snorkel villas, some of which have Ifugao huts, their ownthe 14barefoot-luxury private pool, wine list and genuinely friendly Philippine Built of northern in the style service. Moussempes, theirrestaurant offers exquisitely executed world cuisine, an extensive cliffside with panoramic views of the ocean. Created by Nicolas and Patricia boutiques. Surrounded by verdant gardens, a narrow pathway opens up to astunning will set the standard for charming waterfront yet available) not rates villa P3,000; Botanika hospitality and menus that feature the freshest catch of the hospitality day. This year growth invalue-for-money which promise that warm Visayan boutique resorts, the accommodationspectrum—über luxe or budget—Bohol isspecialinits organic years.two Unlike most islands inthe Philippines thatoffer just the opposite ends of (oma.eu) (oma.eu) (left; tarsierbotanika.com (left; and and NT$12,500) from doubles (mandarinoriental.com; Taipei Oriental Mandarin as such hotels tried-and-true With Blue. Hakka brand own its including ceramics beautiful its for notable shop/café craft a shophouse Dadaocheng, Yard in Art or events, cross-disciplinary and design for a showcase now (songshanculturalpark.org) Songshan Cultural Park Take city. the in climate creative febrile current the sample to ways easier are there planning, designs on the city. city. the on designs have to time a better been never there’s explore, to which from NT$10,900) from doubles (wtaipei.com; TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM WHITE-SAND BEACHES, BEACHES, WHITE-SAND has seen a steady riseindevelopment over the past Bohol has it all! wonder thatthe official tagline of theprovince is, colonial-era churches and wildlife galore: it’s no

— STEPHANIEZUBIRI ; three-course lunch for two plus a bottle of wine of wine abottle plus two for lunch ; three-course — DUNCAN FORGAN — DUNCAN This underrated tourism destination , once home to a tobacco factory and and factory a tobacco to home , once tropical countryside, tropical countryside, providing flashdigs

/

J Taipei on display at the the at display Taipei on ANUARY 2016 Dadaocheng Wharf. Dadaocheng Tarsier W Taipei W

23

/ here&now / w h e r e t o g o i n 2 0 1 6 Cape Lodge. LEFT: Kangaroos lead the way down the cape trail. FOR THE TINY NUMBER of history and Lanai, Hawaii Asbury Park, On the Horizon nature buffs who have made it to St. Helena, With no traffic lights and New Jersey A new airport will make the Napoleon’s final port of exile, much of the just one airport runway, In the song “My City of fascinating South Atlantic island of appeal was the British territory’s ultra-remote Lanai is the anti-Oahu. Ruins,” written in 2000, St. Helena much easier to reach. location, almost 3,200 kilometers from South And last June, one of Bruce Springsteen Africa. The only way to get to the capital, Hawaii’s quietest islands described Asbury Park Jamestown (below), population 640, was five got even quieter when as a city of boarded-up days aboard the last working Royal Mail tship (rms‑s ‑helena.com) from Cape Town. But its owner, Larry Ellison, windows and empty in February, the opening of St. Helena Airport, on the Prosperous Bay Plain—where you shut down both its Four streets. A battering by can spot endangered wirebirds—will cut journey time to five hours from Johannesburg. Seasons resorts for Hurricane Sandy in A new generation of adventurers will discover sea turtles and whales while snorkeling renovations—leaving 2012 didn’t help. But the in Rupert’s Bay and traverse the dramatic Diana’s Peak. In the island’s misty hills, the only the 11-room Hotel Longwood House museum is a reminder of Napoleon’s life on the island. A boutique Jersey Shore town, 90 Lanai (hotellanai.com; minutes south of New hotel is in the works, but for now stay at the five-roomFarm Lodge (sthelena​tourism. doubles from US$174), in com; doubles from £110 per person), a 17th-century plantation house where the décor York City, has started to Lanai City, open to recover, led by its gay and home cooking are from a bygone era—like the island itself. — EMILY MATHIESON guests. That’s all set to BORDERED BY THE INDIAN OCEAN to the and live-music scenes. change this year, with Visitors to Asbury’s the highly anticipated Australia’s west and dotted with forests. Here, more than 60 vineyards thrive in what closely resembles boardwalk can still March launch of the Cape Drive a maritime Mediterranean climate and have their fortunes told Four Seasons Resort MARGARET RIVER, THE LATEST produce some 15 percent of the country’s at Madam Marie’s Lanai (fourseasons.com; GOURMET ENCLAVE, IS JUST OVER premium wines. At Cullen (cullenwines.com.​ Temple of Knowledge doubles from US$960). THREE HOURS FROM PERTH. au; mains A$34–$38), which has an excellent but now they’ll also find The property (formerly restaurant, the best bet is the Diana Madeline the Four Seasons Manele clothing and jewelry at Bordeaux-style blend. Leeuwin (leeuwinestate.com.au; mains A$32–$44) serves the Market at Fifth Bay) will have new freshwater crayfish and grass-fed beef and lamb, which pair well with the Art restaurants, including Avenue (marketatfifth Series Cabernet Sauvignon. Stay at Cape Lodge (capelodge.com.au; doubles from avenue.com), sushi and chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s, A$525), a plush boutique hotel set in 13 hectares of woodland. Its lakeside two pools, and 217 rooms tacos at Langosta restaurant has a new chef, Michael Elfwing, previously of England’s Fat Duck. Also Lounge (langosta decorated with woodcuts essential: a trip to the Bahen & Co. (bahen​chocolate.com) chocolate factory, where lounge.com; mains by local artist Dietrich former winemaker Josh Bahen creates a house blend that is 70 percent cacao and US$8–$16), and Varez. Thankfully, the sweetened with organic sugar, along with a spectacular version with chili and surfboards and most important things salt. — GRAHAM BOYNTON will remain the same: skateboards at Lightly the prime location—near Salted (lightlysalted. a marine preserve—and surf). A short walk from the five-star views. the beach, Asbury — STEPHANIE WU Festhalle & Biergarten Persian Si-o-Seh Bridge (asburybiergarten.com; in Esfahan. mains US$12–$25) Treasures serves almost 100 Diplomatic stability varieties of beer, and means that Iran’s famous venues like the THE POWDERY PARADISE OF KOH YAO NOI has managed to history and beauty are Stone Pony (stone Shore Thing dodge the rough love of high-traffic tourism that has ponyonline.com)—a accessible again. KOH YAO NOI, WITH ITS harangued its neighbors, Phuket and Krabi. Its natty nook in Springsteen haunt—are PRIVATE VILLAS AND QUIET Phang Nga Bay dishes up views so stunning it’s hard to believe still packed. The COASTS, MAY BE THE PERFECT the horizon wasn’t photoshopped. Pearly limestone karsts rise Empress Hotel on the THAI ISLAND FOR TRAVELERS out of the cobalt depths with ancient authority, and all the oceanfront (asbury WHO WANT THE WHOLE BEACH. picturesque pinpoint islands and snorkeling spots, like Koh empress.com; doubles Hong and James Bond Island, are at close reach. The few from US$99) is the place WITH 19 UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES and a history of empire going back to hoteliers lean on the island’s intimate charm to offer secluded accommodations like to stay, at least until the the rustic tree-house style Koyao Island (koyao.com; doubles from Bt8,550), where 1000 B.C., Iran was a major destination before the revolution of 1979. Now intrepid 110-room Asbury opens you can opt for a tented lodge on 200 meters of private beach, or Six Senses Yao Noi travelers are rediscovering the vibrant, surprisingly cosmopolitan capital of Tehran; the this year. The first new (sixsenses.com; villas from Bt27,485) where personal gardens in some of the most gorgeous architecture and Great Bazaar of Esfahan; the mosques of Kashan, the retreat fetching villas lead from your infinity pool directly onto the beach. If that’s still not of Safavid kings; and the extraordinary gardens of Shiraz. There’s plenty to celebrate hotel in the city in 55 private-estate enough, Ani Villas (anivillas.com; from US$5,500 per night, three-night about modern Iranian culture, too: the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art (tmoca. years is part of a minimum stay), which just opened last month, may fit the bill. It is all or nothing at com), founded by the shah in 1977, holds an impressive collection of Western art. Also in multimillion-dollar this 10-room beachfront property that only books one group at a time, so you’ll have Tehran, the nonprofit art centerSazmanab (sazmanab.org) is a showcase for emerging plan to revive a 1.5- the two master suites, four pool villas with ocean views, four family suites with talent. Since the tourist visa availability is in flux, the best way to visit is with an kilometer stretch of private living rooms, a bar, a waterslide, a 33-meter swimming pool, a spa, a yoga operator—U.K.-based Exodus (exodustravels.com) and Canada-based G Adventures beachfront.

pavilion, a fitness center and a dining sala all to yourself. — MERRITT GURLEY OF ANI VILLAS COURTESY IMAGES; KENT KOBERSTEEN/GETTY FROM TOP: IMAGES FRIEDRICH SCHMIDT/GETTY LODGE; OF CAPE COURTESY LUXURY; INTO OF WALK LEFT: COURTESY FROM TOP CLOCKWISE (gadventures.com) offer comprehensive trips. — SEAN ROCHA — DAVID SHAFTEL

24 JANUARY 2016 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / JANUARY 2016 25 c retrospective at the modern museum art Modigliani the and exhibitions art outdoor by the city. city. the by (constancel.com), LaM | DO 26 re / fashion label label fashion ethical at shop Postes, des Faubourg , an hour north ofParis. ofLille,anhournorth A boomindesignanddiningisputting thespotlightoncity French Evolution ourt

he

Look for city-sponsored indoor and and indoor city-sponsored for Look (above; musee-lam.fr) isane.fr), ​

JANUARY 2016 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM Sainte Courtisane Sainte and jeweler jeweler and two designers backedtwo & now Constance L Constance . At Rue du . At Rue

(sainte ​

/ e r e h w restaurant, La Table. La restaurant, the helms Passard, Alain with trained who Pourcheresse, Nicolas chef and poems, Baudelaire’s Charles after named otel.com; doubles from €170) are suites and rooms 19 All furnishings. bones dressed up with contemporary 18th-century its for attention earned has (clarance STAY | The five-star five-star The

o t h ​

o g

Clarance Hotel Lille Hotel Clarance n i The dining room at at room dining The Stanley Diamond.

6 1 0 2 FRANKFURT The Next Berlin AND COCKTAIL LOUNGES. COCKTAIL AND RESTAURANTS LIVELY WITH SISTER, COOLER ITS FROM

IS TAKING ACUE TAKING IS celestin.fr) gentrify.There find you’ll to the main train station that isstartingto thered-light district next Bahnhofsviertel, hidden spots,many ofthemin up. The city’s tastemakers are opening Germany’sloosened businesscapital has com) shops like like shops c rooftop spa. burlesque-inspired rooms, and a domed Design Hotel with looming black doors, Maxie — tartare. duck as such dishes Flemish €34-€50), (above; bloem Les Bières de Célestin EAT | Roomers Stanley Diamond pastrami sandwiches, have openedsleek York deli famous for itscocktails and €25), ahybridofFrench bistro andNew two. The placetostay: thefuturistic only way toseeitall is tospend a nightor after-dinner drinks, brûlée. Not far away are two chic places for beet risotto and almond-nougat crème €17-€36),com; mains which has dishes like the neighborhood, the brothers behind soba-noodle-making expert. Elsewhere in where a rotating roster ofchefs includes a on thesecond floor ofanofficebuilding, michel.com; afeinecoffeelille), afeinecoffeelille),

LINDSEY TRAMUTALINDSEY and the Lille’s old town has specialty coffee coffee specialty has town old Lille’s Eisen

(roomers.eu; doubles from €136), a where Florent Ladeyn serves serves Ladeyn Florent where Caféine Coffee Coffee Caféine and neo-bistros like like neo-bistros and

— mains €10-€16),mains a supper club (maxieeisen.com; mains €8.50- Parlour

GISELA WILLIAMS GISELA ​p ot.fr; tasting menus menus ot.fr; tasting (left; stanleydiamond. (left; craft-beer dens like like dens craft-beer Kinly Bar (theparlour.de). The

few years, But overpast the nondescript towers. bankers and of straitlaced Frankfurt asa city MANY THINKOF (les Club Michel (fb. ​ bieresde com/ ​ (kinlybar. Bloempot

(club

TOP: STEVE HERUD. BELOW FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF LAM; COURTESY OF CLARANCE HOTEL LILLE; ©VIRGINIE GARNIER