Millinery Department

MER C H AND I SE MANU A L SERI ES

MI LLI NERY'

0 i

C ARLOTTE RA K AI KEL H N IN , i

ormer du ca tional re t or La gg lle and Ko F ly E Di c , ch , o e o o T l d , Ohi

NEW YORK THE RONALD PRES S COM PANY '

1 9 2 2 C o r h 1 1 8 b py ig t , 9 , y THE RO NALD PRE S S C OMPANY

C o r h 1 2 2 py ig t , 9 , by THE RO NALD PRE S S C OMPANY All rig hts reserved ’ Whiz ém es is B ebirateb

i to Mrs . enr Oll esh eimer M ss H y , r nia o er a nd Miss nn e Vi gi P tt , A or an who des r n to e M g , i i g giv greater oppo rtunity f or a dvance m ent to commercial employees and Believing tha t all b usiness efﬁ ci ency must r est upon a so lid founda tion of training and education gave years O f enthusiasti c serv ice to the s testing of thi b elief . MERCHANDISE MANUAL SER IES

E DI TO R O F S E RI E S BEU ELFRETH E LAH K NNARD ,

orm er re tor Of e a rtm e nt tore ou rses New Yor F ly Di c D p S C , k Univer sity ; Chairm an O f C ommi ttee on M er cha ndise C ou r se s f or New Yor t u oo s E u a t ona re tor k Ci y P blic Sch l ; d c i l Di c , D epartm ent Store Edu cati on A sso ciati on

CON S ULTI NG E DI TO R

G O W Y P H D . LEE ALL A , .

r o essor of ommer e a nd I n u str H e a of e artm ent P f C c d y , d D p of a na em ent and orm er re tor of ra n n oo M g , f ly Di c T i i g Sch l f or e a e rs of R eta l e n New Yor Un er s t T ch i S lli g , k iv i y orm er E u at ona re tor the Nat ona ommer ai f ly d c i l Di c “ i l C ci G as A ssociati on EDITOR’S PREFACE

A s Department S tore Merchandi se Manuals these books were o riginally written f or sale speople and were designed to give them reliable information c oncerning the source s and manufacturing processe s o f the mer chandise a W w as ssa which they h ndle . hen it nece ry to deal w ith scientiﬁc or hi storical materi al it w as treated as simply and concretely as p ossible and the po int Of view taken w as - that Of business rather than

a c o r s o th t Of the s hool laboratory . In thi f rm they have proved their practical value not only to the de partment sto re salesperson but in the speci alty shop .

has o out o a a a has It been p inted , h wever , th t the m teri l a a o wider scope th n that Of sales m anual s al ne .

A s c oo s a a s s o referen e b k , libr ri n will ﬁnd the h rt ,

s a nd a clear t tements a full indexes inv luable .

’ A s an encyclopaedia Of merchandi se the series con

a s s o a o a s o a o t in cientiﬁc inf rm ti n in imple , c mp ct f rm which makes it available f or children and others to

s s a are wh om the ubject tre ted unfamiliar . A s textbooks they are adapted f or use in commerci al s oo s s oo s s oo s se lass s ch l , high ch l , night ch l , ttlement c e n f n a d by teachers o h ousehold art s a d domestic science . v i EDITOR ’S PREFACE

A s so e oo s f or a a s o - e urc b k pr ctic l t ry t lling , kinder

a s a and a a o s oo a s i g rtner , prim ry v c ti n ch l te cher w ll ﬁnd in them an abundance Of interesting materi al f or “ ” s o s o s on a o s s s and a s h rt true t rie the v ri u indu trie cr ft ,

a a o s o a s s as s the m nuf cture Of h u eh ld rticle , uch pin

and s as as a o f o needle , well the m king p ttery ,

nd o a s ass a s . s a a s gl , teel The e m nu l c nt in j u t the materi al Often hunted f or in vain by teachers and

a a s libr ri n . A s ho usehold help s and shopping guides the young housekeeper will ﬁnd the manual s her best friends be cau se they not only describe the manufacturing pro

cesses but tell her how to di stingui sh well - made a rticles

Of good materials from the inferi or and ba dly made . They al so tell her how to care f or the clothing or

o s o oo s she has o h u eh ld g d which b ught . F or salespeople and sto rekeepers they supply the general and speciﬁc information about their merchan

s is s sa to fﬁ di e which indi pen ble e ciency , yet very hard to gather from the scattered sources upon which n they ow depend . These changes should enlarge the u sefulness Of the manual s without losing any o f their speciﬁc value in

the ﬁeld Of salesmanship . The subjects o f colo r and design are Of great im ~ portance in the treatment o f many kinds Of merch an

To a o an o s o a s o di se . v id y c nfu i n ri ing fr m varied EDITOR ’S PREFACE statements Of principles the editor has put the material into a standardized form approved by the authors o f

s a s a a the manuals in which the e ch pter ppe r . W e wi sh to express our grateful appreci ation to the manufacturers and expert s who have given us such

- valuable counsel and cordial co operation .

B U A H ELF RETH K A E L E N N RD . AUTHO R ’S P RE F A CE

In gathering the i nfo rmation f o r thi s manual the author found f ew publi cati ons dealing w ith the pro cesse s o f hat- ma n in o cou s c U ki g f reign ntrie , ex ept the nited ’ S a s Go r m o on Ph a s t te ve n ent s rep rt ilippine H ts . Thi is due to the zeal w ith which foreign producers and ex

o rs a a s c s o f r n s and p rte h ve gu rded the e ret thei i du try , al so to the l ack Of any systemati c investigation Of the s c w a n a s in n has ubje t . The e vi g Of br id di sta t countries

ca On om s and art has a been rried in the h e , the been h nded dow n from one generati on to another ; the refore the facts c n n ﬁ u r n orma oncer i g it have been dif c lt to di scove . I f tion as to the millinery manu factor ies in thi s country w as mo as a n as s and ro re e ily Obt i ed , the exten ive p

' g ressiv e e stabli shments Of the trade have shown a most

n o - ra on ge erous c Ope ti . The autho r is greatly indebted to the original re

M Canno E uca ona D c or s a c s O f ss . e r he i B n , d ti l ire t , M ss Can o se m n m n o on . W . n S o s Co a s File e p y , B t i n n cured reports and informati on from United S tates con sul ar Ofﬁci al s in foreign countr ies and made a compila c a o is a so n ti on Of data on the subje t . The uth r l i debted to the kindness Of the United S tates Government expert on comme rcial ﬁbers ; to the practi cal suggesti ons Of Mr . I n f Ne r M S o c . o w O . B . Kreeger Of the Kreeger t re, , ’ AUTHOR S PREFACE ix

a s to The Dr Goods E conomis t and The Milli le n ; y , nery Trade Rev iew f or certain informati on ; al so to R m n . a d o a . Co e C s and a H y mp ny, dyer ble chers o f

s a a s to a o s and o a to r C M s . tr w br id , G ge Br ther mp ny, ’ Mc l ll n f n n E . . C e a d o W oma s W ear a d to o G , the edit r

s s f or a a o C a X I I Of the erie the prep r ti n Of h pter . F or illu strati ons thanks are due to the United S tate s

D a P a ep rtment Of Agriculture , The hilippine Bure u Of

E a o The Milliner Trade Rev iew The P hili duc ti n , y , p

ine Cra tsman The National Geo ra hic Ma azine p f , g p g ,

Br n an R M. Mc i a d obert de d Company .

s o o C a s and Thi v lume , with the excepti n Of h pter I

‘ X VI a s to a s s a , pplie the buying Of h t , ince the gre ter

o s c as oss ss s kn wledge Of the ubje t the purch er p e e , the s h s s o . O o s s e o s wi er will be her electi n bvi u ly, i f kn w h a a s s a s . s e a ass m teri l , tr w , etc , will buy with gre ter ur a s ow she ma a a nce . Thu the kn ledge y h ve g ined by

a as s Ob servati on will be gre tly incre ed by tudy . A knowledge Of the col ors that are becoming and Of

s out s a s a the line which bring the be t fe ture Of the f ce,

E o h is essential in buying hats . very ne as picked up

s o a o a o a s s mi scellaneou inf rm ti n b ut h t , but the cientiﬁc

a i a study Of them will no doubt be n a d to m ny . It is

as a so to a o a c a ple ure l , le rn the r m n e Of millinery , and to know how the people s in the f ar corners Of

nt ur a the earth toil f or the adornme Of o he ds . It is Sincerely hoped that those who take up these X AUTHOR ’S PREFACE s s f or use o s o or s oo tudie in the h me , the t re , the ch l may ﬁnd thi s book Of some service f or practical appli

a o t s c ti n o their need .

A A A K CH RLO T T E R N K I N I E N . CO NTE NTS

TH E MILLI N ERY DEPART ME NT

Pl an O f Department General I mpression Atmosphere Stock Tables “ Trying on Tables Di splay Cases Counter Cases Arrangement of Stock “ French Rooms Stock and W orkrooms

HAT S TRAW A N D S TRA W BRAIDS

Most Important Material I talian Straw B est Climate and S oil Gathe ring and Bleaching Sorting Cente rs of the Plaiting I ndustry M ethod o f Plaiting

HAT S TRAW A ND S TRA W BRAI DS ! Continued)

Varieties T uscan B raid Florence Tu scan B raid Leghorn H ats Plaiting Leghorn Milan B raid Patent Milan Split Straw CONTENTS

PAGE Li séré O riental B raids B raid- Making in China Chi ne se Straw Swi ss Straw H emp H emp H ats H emp- Weav ing I ndustry Philippine Factories Milan Hemp I mitation H emp Machine - Made B raids hip Yedda Ramie H orsehai r Py rox ylin Chrysanthemum B raid

S TRA W HAT - MAK I N G

H and- Made H ats Panam a H ats Location o f I ndustry Gathering the Raw Material Toughe ning and Bleaching Pl aiting by the Native s P rocess O f M aking Fi ni shing Method o f Cl e aning Tests f o r Q uality I mitati on Panamas W e nchow Philippine H ats B ambo o H ats Weaving B amb oo Double H ats Q ualities o f the B amboo Hat B ur i Hats K alasio H ats B untal H ats Pandan H ats Mino r H at Materials Ex port Trade CONTENTS xiii

CHAPTER V MACH I N E - MADE S TRAW HATS Devel opment o f I ndustry Loc ati on o f Facto ries Different Kinds o f Factories Receiving the B raids Sew ing the B raid into H ats Sizing Blocking Additional Blocking Fini shing Sew ed B raids $ 371 F ELT HATS Felting P roperties o f W ool and F ur So urces of Felt Fi r st Process Washing the Skins D rying and C utting S orting and Grading Mi x ing Cl eansing the F ur Fo rming Felting Process B eg un Si zing Dyeing ’ Stiffening Stretchi ng Fi ni shing Processes ' Diﬁ e rent G rades o f Felt Hi story o f Felt H ats

{ VI I VELVET A N D O T H ER F ABRI C HATS Us e o f Velvet and Othe r Fab rics in H ats Manufacture o f Pile Fab rics W ay s to Dete rmine Q uality o f Velvet Manuf acture o f Vel v et H ats Silk and Satin H ats D urability o f Silk H ats Weighted Silk Other F ab ric H ats New Material s F ur Hats Miscellaneous Fabrics CONTENTS

HAT TRI MM I NGS FEATH ERS Varieties V Ho w Style I s I nﬂuenced The Story of T rimmings Feather s T reatment o f Feathers Ostrich Feathers O stri ch Farm s Forms o f O strich Feathers Dyeing Ostrich Feathers Black Dye V ulture Wings Peacock and Pheasant

d uck arro and Gu nea - owl Wil D , P t, i F Pigeon Fowl Spani sh Coq and H ackle Egret o r Aigret ! a Kind o f Heron) Bi rd o f Paradi se Other Wild Bi rds Used f or Hat T rimming

HAT TRI M MI N GS F LOW ERS

S ource s o f Artiﬁci al Flow ers Flowe r Materi al s ‘ S tiﬁ ening and Cutting O ut Dye ing M aking H o w Flowers Come to the Milliner Ro se s Field Flowers Appliq ué Flow ers Violets Sm all Flow ers O dd Flow e rs Rare Flow e rs Natural Flowers Foliage Fruits CONTENTS xv

PAGE

AT — BB A D AND H TRI M M I NGS RI O NS , B N S , O R NA MEN TS

Silk Ribbons Weave s Ribbon Patte rns Widths o f Ribbons B ands O rnaments Emb ro ide ry and Painting Other Tr immings F ur T rimmings

UCH OOS I NG A BECOM I NG H AT

V l mportance o f the Choice Goon Ta ste T he Cause o f Bad Taste The D uty o f W omen to b e B eautiful I mpo rtance o f a Hat in a Co stume ’ The Sale swoman s Part in Selecting a Hat Line and Color in Millinery Ob servation and Study o f D ress Styl e in Millinery 0 Change in Styles E x treme and Conservative Styles S uitability ’ ’ P utting O ne s S elf in the Customer s Place What Constitute s a S uitable Hat w S uiting the Ag e o f a Customer A ctively Becoming H ats The o st I mportant Elements in Choosing a IMat

PRI N CI PLES OF CO LOR I mportance o f a K nowledge Salespe rson Combinations o f Colors The Spectrum Standar d Colo rs Pr imary Col o r s Secondary Colors xvi CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE Characteri stics O f P rimary Colors Characte r i stic s O f S eco nda ry Colors Luminou s and So mb e r Colo rs B roken Colo rs Ab sorption and Reﬂection o f Color Co mplementary Colors Properties o f Color H ues W al ues Colo r S cales I ntensity Colo r H armonies Colo r Under A rtiﬁci al Light

COLOR I N MI LLI N ERY

Comme rcial Names o f Colo rs Training the S ense o f Co l o r Q ue stio ns o f Ta ste Solved by a K nowle dge o f Colo r H armo ny B ringing O ut the B e st Features in a Face Reﬂ ectio n Characteri stics o f Color s Red Orange Yello w Green Blue Vi olet Variety in Colo r Restf ulness O f Neutral C ol o rs Combinations o f Ne utral s with B righter Col o r s ’ How to T rain One s Self in Colo r - Ta ste

FORM OR S H APE I N MI LLI N ERY x1Choosing a H at I mpo rtance o f the Line s o f a Hat Relation Between the Part s of the Hat ne s C ur es and n es and he r e a ons Li , v , A gl , T i R l ti Symmetry in a Hat

CONTENTS

CHAPTE R PAGE The Lining Col ored Hats Reblocking Magazine Helps

X VIII CLAS S I F I CAT I O N OF S TOCK OF A TYPI CAL MILLI NE RY D E PARTME NT

A PPE ND I X

B ooks f or Re ference LI ST O F I LLUS TR ATI O NS

Chinese Straw Plaits l I G URE I ra d n ra . B i i g St w

2 C u n em and . tti g H p by H 24

Th r een- oo ra d n 3 . i t Sp l B i i g Machine 26

. av n a Hat 4 W e i g 3 2

n raw ra ds 5 . Shippi g St B i 4g

6 On an s r ch arm . O t i F 74 N PAGE a r nd ca n r m r 7 . Di g am I i ti g P i a y and Secondary Color s W ith he r ues n s and Con ra sts T i H , Ti t , t “ g

ull ace Canno ear a ur an 8 . A F F t W T b 1 46

u ace ooks e in a ar e - r mm 9 . A F ll F L W ll L g B i ed Hat 1 46

0 nu - o sed er son hou d Not e ar a ur a 1 . A S b N P S l W T b n 1 46

1 er son w e u ar ea ures Can ear a ur 1 . A P ith R g l F t W T ban 1 46

h n ace oks e in a ur an 1 2 . A T i F Lo W ll T b 148

a r - r mm 1 3 . A Thin Face Cannot Wear a L ge B i ed H at 1 48

d e d H in Ma e r a and r m 14 . An Ol er Face N e s a at So ft t i l T i mmg s

1 ou h u ace Can ear a Hat w h ff ra h 5 . A Y t f l F W it Sti , St ig t Li nes in Shape and T rimming

I t I s I nar s c to de the E eb ro ws 1 6. ti ti Hi y X IX

MI LLIN ERY‘

Chapter I

THE MI LLINERY D EPARTM ENT

Pl an of D epartment

The constructi on and plan o f a Millinery Department

a a os a o to o sa s and a be r cl e rel ti n the v lume Of le , h ve a vital eff ect upon the succe ss Of the department and o f a a s so in- it is a s ta ar e ch s le per n . It bec u e cer in rangements and equipment h ave been fo und so prac~ a and s a s a s a tic l helpful in the elling Of h t , th t imil rity prevail s among the millinery section s o f the best de

r r pa tment sto res o f the count y .

General I mpression

The general appearance o f a properly planned Mil linery Department produce s an impre ssi on O f roomi f ness. The extended ﬂoo r space and multitude o mir rors enable a customer to view a hat from all sides 2 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT and o all s a s s as she o on fr m di t nce , ju t w uld view it the a a o o a on s s o he d Of n ther w m n the treet . A cu t mer ma a e a a s a o a so s and y ex min m ny h t , m ke c mp ri n ,

oos the n a s s a U o s ch e o e th t uit her f ncy . n b tructed

’ ss ace s es s out- O i oo s the hat is to p ugg t d r , where be

o r and h r o is a t to a oss ss o o f w n , t e ef re p m ke the p e i n ' an ew hat seem- mo re desirable ; al so cu stomers can be

s o a erved m re e sily in a large open department .

A tmo sph ere

The atmosphere Of a Millinery Department should

a a s one a and as lw y be Of digniﬁed eleg nce reﬁned t te ,

in keeping with the ch aracter o f the good s di splayed . Thi s has a favorable effect upon the p atronage and

s a o ﬁ is a sale . A b ckgr und Of quiet re nement cre ted by carefully ch osen carpet s o f h armoniou s design and

‘ o o and a l oo o a so s and c l r , be utifu w dw rk , h nd me ﬁxture ,

proper lighting .

S tock T ab l es

In the Millinery Dep artment Of most large stores

r s l arge table s a e given prominent p osition s . The e

ta s ma b e o o a s a or o ble y r und , v l , qu re , Obl ng ; the

mo o o o s are a s o s . Obl ng ne perh p re c mm nly u ed _ Gen erally hat s o f the same price are pl aced on a table by themselves and arranged on standards Of varying

heights. INTRODUCTORY 3

The untrimmed shapes are heaped upon tables that

a o s are have rails r und the edge . There SO many shapes ju st alike that one wonders why some are not put away in the deep drawers underneath these tables ; but the heaping together Of such a number o f shapes makes the price appear more reasonable to the cus

o is is s a a se in . a s t mer Th de ir ble , bec u untrimmed h t

a a i is a ss a a a p rticul rly t their che pne th t ppe ls. The customer knows that article s cost le ss by the dozen and she is apt to reason that i f she sees m any similar a s a h one st a a the s h t , e c mu be che per th n if de ign were

o s P o a a to to m re exclu ive . e ple h ve le rned expect ﬁnd a s a a Mo o a a s s w . b rg in di pl yed in thi y re ver, the qu n

its s s o s ss and a tity, with ugge ti n O f fre hne v riety Of

o o s ss o o f an a a o f ch ice , pr duce the impre i n bund nce s o t ck . A desire f or exclu siveness and f or a hat different ’ o a o s s ra s o s a a s fr m ny ne el e Ope te , O f c ur e , g in t the appeal to customers ; f or this reason untrimmed hats that can be diversiﬁed by trimming according to the ’ s o s as s s a s a a o s cu t mer t te u u lly ell very well in b rg in l t , whereas h ats th at are already trimmed are not so s w a easily sold in thi y. In the drawers below the t ables are the reserve

a s a s f or a s ma or ma not Sh pe . T ble trimmed h t y y have drawers beneath f or reserve stock and hats not on s a di pl y, k!. MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

In specialty sh op s the stock is generally kept in cases and a s deep dr wer .

Trying on Tabl es

S mall tables with chairs and hand mirrors are placed befo re l arge mirrors which face the seated customer at - os o s o k a is well ch en p int am ng the stoc t bles. It

to a a o s s o s as better h ve the l rge mirr r in three ecti n ,

s o s the cu t mer can then see herself from all angle . are a s a can a e I f there pill r in the dep rtment , they be m d to serve as supports f or the l arge mirrors and small n tables may al so be placed back to back . It is o e Of the w ays o f making a cu stomer comfortable and SO di sposed to purchase .

D i spl ay Cases

o s s o f oo a s on s a a s o f Ar und the ide the r m , h t t nd rd various heights are di splayed in large electric - lighted

s s oo s o ca es with m ovable gla s d r . The ﬂ or Of these case s is ab out table height with l arge mirrors at the back and with deep drawers f or reserve stock under

a o one a two or o t ne th . O ften nly dr wer , m re fee

is o s s a o f tw o d a s o o f deep , c n tructed , in te d r wer b th a s a are not as which might be too shallow . H t th t e ily a s damaged are kept there in piles several h t deep . Most departments arrange the hats so that those

are o one as s o f one price kept t gether in c e , the ﬁr t

6 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

In all departments there are certain prominently

o a a s as s and o s s l c ted t ble , c e , c unter which people mu t ass on ‘ p frequently the w ay to other departments . S uch counters may be made extremely u seful f or test ing out new good s or noveltie s to see whether a demand can be created ; they may al so be u sed to ex

b ibit slow - moving merchandi se which perhaps the salespeople have neglected to bring fo rw ard becau se o f the fact that they have become too accu stomed

to it .

French Rooms

A number Of small separate rooms designed to aid in the sale Of the mo st expensive hat s are generally

o o o the a are f und pening fr m main dep rtment . They

pl anned to help the sale Of high - priced hat s in a num

f a s a e an a os s ber o w y . They cre t tm phere Of exclu ive

nd o s s o ness a di stincti n . The quiet eclu i n gives the

sa s so an a a a as as a s a le per n dv nt ge , well implying peci l

h s o attenti on to t e cu t mer . S alesroom s Of thi s nature are richly furni shed and

a are o a o o s so as to af o gener lly dec r ted in light c l r , f rd a m o re delicate background f or the exqui site hats

S is s a to e shown in them . ince it de ir ble giv every advantage to cu stomers and salespeople in the di sposal ” - a s s c a oo s usu o f high priced merch ndi e , the pe i l r m ally have daylight f or selecting and matching colors. INTRODUCTORY 7

S a oo is uch r m quite Often di stingui shed by some spe “ ” cial a s as Roo D n me, uch the French m . ark French oo s are so s ff r m metime very e ective . Cu stomer s have sa a s oo s an hat oo id th t in uch r m y l ked becoming .

S to ck and W orkroom s

It is convenient to have the stock - roo m and work r oom O i a Millinery Department situated as near the

s oo as oss not e a o . elling ﬂ r p ible , if dir ctly dj ining it There the trimmers work at large table s by good day

a and a a s light , ltering , retrimming , m king h t , while

f s o s are s s o hat a . full upplie br id , ribb n , velvet , etc , in

r n i a s a a s o s o o s es . h e s dr wer , b xe , helv T er peci l

who s a or all to s checker, give p rt Of her time de cribing in a special record every hat tha t goes out Of the work

oo o oo has to do room . A g d w rkr m much with the sati s facti on o f cu stomer s and the success o f the whole department . Chapter II

HAT S TRAW AND S TRAW BRAIDS

Most I mpo rtant Material

a s are a o an a a s o f H t m de fr m m y m teri l , which true s a o o a is os o a tr w , w ven int br id , the m t imp rt nt . Until

1 8 0 oo s s a a to s a - a 4 , when l m were ﬁr t d pted tr w br iding ,

f a s e a e a the di ferent br id wer m d entirely by h nd , but as o s a o s a o m dern indu tri l meth d h ve been devel ped ,

o e and - o a is o a m r m re Of the br iding d ne by m chinery , and only those countries where manual labo r is cheap

o an - a was o a roﬁt c ntinue the h d br iding, which nce p a e d s bl in u try .

Italian S traw B est

S a a is o in a o s tr w br id pr duced m ny c untrie , but the

S a s a s o C a a a and United t te dr w chieﬂy fr m hin , J p n ,

W a and s a f or a s w as o Italy . he t rye tr w h t gr wn in Massachusetts in the early part o f the nineteenth cen

but s was o f s o ta e . tury , the indu try light imp r nc The straw from the different countries varies in

P o a st is o o t quality . r b bly the ﬁne gr wn in n r hern

a he e the s has a e its s de It ly, w r indu try re ch d highe t 8 HAT STRAW AND STRAW BRAIDS 9

s o f h v elopment. The uperiority t e Italian straw is due to climatic and soil condition s and to the fact that the wheat is rai sed largely f or making hats and not

f or oo e as C a a is a s to s f or f d , wh re in hin whe t r i ed erve

o s The o o f so and b th purpo es . meth d wing cutting

a a f or st a o ff s a o the whe t r ised r w nly , di er gre tly fr m

h is f or oo method u sed when t e grain intended f d . The latter method o f cultivation produces an inferior

h - grade and d amages the straw f or at making .

Climate and S oil

Even in Italy only certain areas are suitable in soil and a f or o u o o f at s a clim te the pr d cti n h tr w . The s s are so on so on a eed wn very thickly rich , light il , rid

n a s s r r a d rather high l nd . The talk a e ve y long and o so a t o s s o and gr w thickly th t hey t uch , thu upp rting

n s o r protecting o e another . Thi meth d Of planting p o a i t s a s a . a s oo duce ﬁne , t ll tr w If the we ther wet , s a s s o and u s a is the tr w will p t r t , while if the clim te S a very dry and hot the straws become brittle . tr ws a s is usu will spot also when too ripe . The whe t eed a so in Ma c and the o is the lly wn r h , cr p cut when grain in the ear is only ha lf developed .

Gath ering and Bl eaching

s a is roo s a r The tr w pulled up by the t by h nd , d i ed

the sun and a o s a s v in , then m de int m ll hea es. I O MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

It must be pulled by h and SO that the ends o f the straw may be kept closed througho ut the process o f curing and bleaching to retain the pitch which w ould escape i f the crop were cut with a scythe o r by machine power .

o and now to som the s F rmerly, even e extent , bundle were allowed to lie in the sun during the day and in e s a s a a s s the d w by night , until fter ever l d y the traw

a and a is now a bec me cured ble ched , but it gener lly a i n cured under cover . I f the ble ching s o t d one by

and s s o ss s a is a the dew un hine pr ce , the tr w ble ched in sulphur fum es . in a closed chest or by o ther chemical

o s s pr ces e .

S orting

The worker take s the shea f Of wheat between his h knees and draws t e straw out by handful s . The w heat ears are cut O ff ﬁrst ; the top Of the stalk which is called a pipe becau se it is h ollow — is then cut away S O that only the lower nine inches are kept f se - s o s are so o or pl aiting . The nine inch ecti n rted int size s by letting them fall through several sieves with

ff n s s or o o s a holes Of di ere t ize , thr ugh pening in wire _

‘ os are s o o or s dtted are frame . Th e which di c l red p

s and s separated from the re t mu t be dyed , either in the

s a o o s pipe or in the plait . Bundle b ut f ur inche in di

r o a s a s a are a amete , c nt ining Sixty tr w e ch , m de, tied , HAT STRAW AND STRAW BRAIDS I I

and sold f or ﬁve o r six lire per hundred bundles . ! A lira is a silver co in worth about eighteen o r nineteen cents . )

C enters of the Pl aiting I ndu stry

Tuscany in northern Italy has been the center Of the

s a s the plaiting industry f or hundred Of ye r . In eight eenth a w as s e 1 82 6 century the tr de very exten iv , but in England began to m anufacture her o wn braid s and in

1 8 com etition ' b e an i S a a a and 7 5 p g w th witzerl nd , J p n , o I s a has e China. Alth ugh the ndu try in It ly declin d in

a e o e o the a a a a s its rel tiv v lum , h wever , It li n br id ret in

o superi rity . In Flo rence and in the regions surrounding the city m ore than peopl e mak e their living plaiting s aw: so e a s o a o tr In m vill ge the entire p pul ti n , men , W o e and are o . w m n children , empl yed ith ﬂying ﬁngers they wo rk even while they w alk along the s a s a a e a a o to treet , c rrying the tr w wr pp d in d mp cl th keep it pli able and inserting new straw s regularly without looking at the work .

' a as o ha s are a In It ly , in every c untry where t m de , the work o f making braid s is carried on largely in the

o s Of the o a o is o e h me pe ple, lth ugh much Of it d n under the directi on Of men connected W ith l arge compani es .

o o t the o e o ma be o s a Thr ugh u wh l w rld , it y n ted , tr w a is o o e and al pl iting d ne chieﬂy by w m n children , 1 2 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

o h it is o as o a o and do th ug cc i n lly d ne by men , men the o o o f a the r a r ugher w rk g thering aw m terial .

Method of P laiting

The plaiter splits each pipe o f straw into f rom four

to e s t the s a f o r s an a nin piece , excep tr w Tu c br id

is o ho s a a which w ven w le . A mall in strument c lled ” splitter with a sharp point to g o into the end o f

the straw and with knife - edge cutters radi ating from i s s s at one o f s a . it , in erted end the tr w pipe The e

s o cutter divide the pipe int even pieces. The plaiter begins her b raid with the required num

s a s are not o o f a ber Of tr w , which , h wever, equ l length . W hen she approaches the end Of the sho rtest straw she inserts another single straw and continues to add new

s. a a n straws as they are needed . Thi le ves fringe o the in side Of the plait which is later cut away by sci s o s s a is the t arm s r . The tr w held under lef Of the pl aiter and each straw is pas sed between the lips to

o s o e is s ss is so m i ten it bef r it in erted , unle there me

o o f a as f or s a e a other meth d keeping it d mp , in t nc wr p

o Ea a who s s ping it in a moi st cl th . ch pl iter u e the

o ar s two or s a s o t ﬁrst meth d c rie three tr w in her m u h ,

r se S is a a e o f s a s ready f o u . even the ver ge numb r tr w

s a o u a s o o to o u ed , lth ugh the n mber r nge fr m f ur f ur

a s a are ss . o e teen . The v rietie Of pl it endle Fl r ntine dealers have exhibited more than diff erent pat

HA T STRAW A ND STRAW BRAIDS 1 3

tern s . An Old couplet describes the method Of weav ing :

O one and two ver under , Pu and a do ll it tight th t will .

The plaiters get wretchedly small pay f or thi s ex pert w o rk from the middlemen to whom they u sually s o o all da a o a can ell their pr duct . By w rking y w m n

a a s a s s - a pl it perh p twenty y rd Of even end br id , which can be bought in the United S tate s at less than a cent a a a and a s o a o a s y rd , fter middlemen tr n p rt ti n ch rge are all a p id .

I s a Figure shows native eng ged in braiding straw . Chapter III

HAT S T RAW A ND S TRAW BRAIDS ! Continued)

Vari eti es

There are many varieties o f straw braid and the

s s to as a S o number eem be incre ing every ye r . me braids have been made by h and in the present weave

r s are f o many centurie s. Other the product O f ma chines . S traw braid s are cl assed as

H and- made Machine- made Tuscan Chip Leghorn Yedda Milan Ramie Patent Milan H orsehair Japan S plit H o rseh air Imitation China S plit Crepe B and Li séré Pyroxylin S wi ss S traw Chrysanthemum Braid Hemp S peci altie s Milan Hemp Vi sca Ca e a Imitation Hemp t rpill r , etc . HAT STRAW AND STRAW BRAIDS :1 5

Tuscan Braid

Tu scan plaits and Legho rn hats are made from

s a s a a s a a and a Tu c n tr w which v rie gre tly in qu lity v lue . The Tuscan braid lends itself to fancy weaves with

h a and a e s a a s are f r muc gr ce , pretty l c Tu c n h t e s quently een . The braid is used in wide fancy borders or in a hat

n . s apparently woven in o e piece by hand . A trong twi st o f tw o straws may be made and u sed as a single

a S a a s a a s a o s o o s str nd . ever l l ce Tu c n h t in v ri u c l r

o s a a were recently Sh wn , re embling in p ttern the B tten berg lace which w as popular a number o f years ag o ” as a o f ncy w rk .

s a is a s o a e a a a o f The Tu c n tr ng , dur bl br id , n tur lly to a tan a a o o o . rich cre m c l r, tending yell w The s aw is is s o s as o s a s tr , which very ﬁne , eld m plit ther tr w i o O s a s s are s s . as , but u ed wh le ther tr w , uch the

Pa a a e h so s s sa f n m typ , whic metime give thi me e fect ,

a a S ee a are Split straws speci lly prep red . ! Ch pter IV P a f or informati on on an ma hat s . ) a t o f the sta is o at The upper p r lk yell w ﬁr st . In a o to a o f raw s a sun dditi n the ble ching the tr w by the , s a s o s s are to s a ever l m king with ulphur given the tr w ,

a and as to the hat to o the pl it , l tly whiten it . The l wer part Of the straw which w as covered by the slender

a is not e so o but a i le f quit yell w , the d rker part s o as th kn wn e Tu scan. 1 6 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

F lorenc e Tuscan Braid

ﬂ at a ow a a o the e A , n rr , pl in br id kn wn in Unit d

S a s as o s a is a s t te Fl rence Tu c n m de Of even , eleven , I i o r o s a s. t s o thirteen , even m re tr w w ven with quick s the a and is s o j erk O f h nd , either ewed t gether by h and at the edges or sewed by machine with the edges a a o o f o s or l pping Over e ch ther, the number r w l ap s to the inch indicating the ﬁneness Of the

a br id . A s Tu scan plaits tend to a yellow col o r in spite o f

a is i o an f or a to the ble ching , it very mp rt t the we ver choose straw s Of the same sh ade and blend the plaits

t o on s s a a a . s ac c refully The ﬁne w rk thi tr w br id , co rdin l s s s so a a g y, trie the eye everely , th t the pl iter n o tw o o r o s a da s ca w ork at it nly three h ur y. The e

v a s o s are o o . o ery ﬁne pl it , Of c ur e , unc mm n Fl rence

s a is s a o a s and s o Tu c n u u lly imp rted in pl it , ewed int h at s in thi s country .

Leghorn Hat s

L o a s so a a s o egh rn h t , c lled bec u e they were exp rted

o L o a o s a e a o fr m egh rn , p rt in Tu c ny , w re invented b ut

is a s a a a f or s at 1 840. There t nd rd dem nd the e

are a a tractive and durable hat s. They n turally o f

o or a o o . os s o a and yell w cre m c l r The cl e , tr ng we ve the quality o f the straw give the hat streng th and stiff i n ss a o to s a . s s e , yet ll w it bend lightly in wind Thi HAT STRAW AND STRAW BRAIDS I 7 an a a s a hat the o o s excellent fe ture in h de , c mm n tyle

L o Of the egh rn . Legh o rn hats are made in the region around Flo r

s a o f sca s a o a s o as ence , u u lly Tu n tr w , fr m br id kn wn “ ” ”

a a ﬂorentina o r o s a . s a s p gli , , n tr le The e br id are generally o f thirteen strand s but sometime s Of ﬁve

o r P a L o is an o a . Of seven . ed l egh rn inferi r gr de A h a s oo oa s . at is a very che p , m th , extremely c r e c lled

Mo a L o unt in egh rn .

Plaiting Leghorn

W omen and children may be seen on the streets o f

I r a the tali an villages plaiting braid f o these h t s . After a few yard s are made the braid l s sewn together into the hat shape or m ade into placques and cone s

h r s whic a e a fte rward s bloc ked into the sh apes de ired .

oa s s o o a is s is not A c r e , twi ted c tt n thre d u ed , which vi sible in the ﬁni shed hat as the edges are ﬁtted to gether so that the hat appears to be w oven in one

L s th piece . In examining a egho rn the pl ace where e thread s run can be detected by a slight ridge in the

s a o f ha The a is t upper urf ce the t. thre d pulled tigh so a th s a o The th t e edge Of the br id s interl ck ﬁrmly . little hump s al ong the edges which ﬁt SO cl osely a re “ a a n s c lled the eyes Of the br id . O the under ide Of the Leghorn the regul arity with which new straws were inserted in the braid may al so be Ob served . 1 8 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

Milan Braid

Milan braid Of good quality makes a beautiful and durable article which is usually popular as a spring hat in dark colors and as a summer hat in creamy e h whit . The at has an attractive gl oss and whil e so a e has o s s ff ss a mewh t ﬂexibl c n iderabl e ti ne . H nd some hats o f Milan braid are sometimes made do uble ff o o hat with di erent c l red brim s sewn together . The is called Milan a fter the city Of Italy near which most

t s a s are o Of he e br id pr duced .

M a or al a as it is so e es a is il n ped br id , m tim c lled , a o f s s an s a oa s a o f the sa m de even tr d , but c r er br id me s is ﬁv - ﬁ - traw e end or v e strand Milan .

s a s is oa s a o e t The tr w u ed c r e , lth ugh O f xcellen

i a and i s a ua . s e a s a s e q lity It c lled p d l tr w , u d in m ny

a Mi a n o f ncy plaits besides in lan br id . O e auth rity says that the lower ! and therefore coarser) p art Of

o the s a is a s a the upper j int Of tr w the ped l tr w, while i s I ts a t is s a the upper part s the Tu can . tre tmen imil r

o t o f o r s a t tha the tr w .

st M a is a - o and a - s The be il n h nd bl cked h nd ewed , but in the United S tates much o f it is sewed on lo ck stitch power sewing- machines becau se thi s method is

The a s are s are o . cheaper . h t ized when they bl cked

Patent Milan

f oa s a a a t An imitation o a much c r er n ture , c lled p ten

2 0 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

O ri ental Braids

S traw braid manufacture has developed rapidly in

C a a s s a P o o f hin in recent ye r , e peci lly in the r vince

S a o h ntung in n rthern China . The chi ef port o f trade is - tau a i s i s . W s a s s ss a T ing he t tr w u ed , but le c re

a a in a and s a fully prep red th n Italy . B rley rice tr w al so ar e utilized . The rice Of J apan yield s a stronger ﬁber than the

o U S a s is not a to rice gr wn in the nited t te , but it equ l

a s a f or hat- a os s whe t tr w m king purp e .

Braid - Making in China

Braid - making in China is done by the natives in

o s o o f a s a their h me , under the directi n gent Of l rge

is a o a h s exporting houses . It thi s l b r th t as di cour a s in o o s f or o ged the indu try ther c untrie , the pe ple can live so cheaply that they can aff o rd to w o rk f or

Mos a is o o o f little . t Of the pl iting d ne in the interi r the country and mu st be taken overland f or hundreds o f s to s a o s e is o s mile the e p rt , wher it tied up int piece ,

so and a 2 0 s to a . O ne o a rted , b led , 4 piece the b le w m n has to wo rk at least two years to make enough pl ait f or a a can o S a s b le , which be b ught in the United t te

all a s or a o a s . are a fter tr n p t ti n ch rge , middlemen , etc ,

a at s a o 2 0 to 0 a a . s p id , price v rying fr m $ $4 b le Thi

c m akes the average w age a few cents a day. Mu h braid is sent to Engl and f or bleaching and manufac HAT STRAW AND STRAW BRAIDS 2 1

a L i ture and later reaches the United S t tes . uton s the

st a - a s E a center Of the r w ble ching indu try in ngl nd .

Chine se S traw Becau se the Chinese wheat is allowed to grow till it is e s a is ss is fully rip the tr w brittle , but neverthele it f r Tw o s m n th u sed o braiding. feet Of te betwee e

o s o f s a is o n j int in the middle the t lk cut int le gths .

s s are o o r o The re ulting traws f ur ﬁve inches l ng .

o o s These are split into from tw t even pi ece s . They are o s to a a and o o m i tened m ke them pli ble , w ven int braid one - eighth to one - hal f inch wide in Odd length s and a o f from thirty to one hundred twenty y rd s . The

s u Chinese bleach thi braid with sulph r fume s . They are clever in all imitati on s and are m ore skilful than any Other nati on in their metho ds Of doing up braid s and a h t s in packages . The fronti spiece show s several varietie s o f Chinese s a a s tr w pl it .

S w i ss S traw The straw f or S wi ss braids is imported from Italy ’ and os o f i o s a s m t it s made int men h ts. The be t

a t f o r S ss s a oo s is a e m rke wi tr w g d Fr nce , wher the

s ar a a o braid e m nuf ctured int hats. S wi ss Milan hemp and plain hemp are today as ﬁne

as an a . so st oa a s o y in qu lity Al the be br d br id , kn wn

a as s s a are a a d e princip lly ilk tr w , m nuf cture ther . 2 2 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

s I S The indu try Old . The peasants o f the Canton Of Aargau w ho carry it on h ave inherited their skill f r o generations. Befo re artiﬁci al silk and pyroxylin

all s s a a s o were invented , ﬁne ilk tr w br id came fr m

S a s o s o o witzerl nd . Thi c untry ﬁnd the c mpetiti n Of Italy and Japan h ard to meet and is able to h old its

o a s not so o f reign tr de in thi line , much by the pr duc

o o f s a oo s as s a s and a c a s ti n t ple g d , by peci ltie f n y br id ’ f or o a w men s h ts. Most o f the best grades are m ade in the h omes o f the o a - o is to a s a pe ple , but the h nd w rk limited re l tr w artiﬁci al or imitati on braids are m ade in the f acto rie s .

Hemp Hemp is not a true straw but like many other ﬁbers

s a are s a it is cla sed as a straw br id . There ever l varie

s O i and a t a s f o r tie hemp , the pl n th t yield the ﬁber hat- making mu st not be confused with the other and

oa s so s s as the S sa o h o c r er rt , uch i l hemp , fr m whic nly r a ropes and co rdage a e m de .

Ma a m a s s a a a o s nil he p , pecie Of b n n , fr m the ﬁne t

o f h os a ac s s s and ﬁber w ich the m t delic te l e , lipper ,

a t s can a is so o f m a other r icle be m de , the urce the terial f or h ats ; it is found growing naturally in only

one a P s . o a s pl ce , the hilippine An ther n me u ed in “ ” i a a th ose i sl and s f or Manila hemp s ab c . In the trade abaca braids are usually known as tagal HAT STRAW AND STRAW B RA IDS 2 3

a or a a s are o ha br id s t g l s. The e the nly t braids

a Ph s M exported in qu ntity from the ilippine . ost hats

a s r a in ne m de by the i landers a e m de o piece.

Hemp Hat s Hemp hat s have been very popul ar and the probabil t a a a o is a o it ity h t they will rem in in f v r gre t , theref re

is to co s a o f r well n ider them in det il . S me o the ea sons f or their popularity are

I The as s n a s . e e with which the ﬁber dye a d ret in

the dye .

N a o o s o a The delic te c l r bt ined in dyeing .

N S and a C trength dur bility .

R s s a to o s A e i t nce m i ture .

L i M ight we ght .

Q a a s f ss o t a t N tur l ti fne t gether wi h pli bili y .

. a oss 7 Attr ctive gl .

Hemp- W eaving Indu stry

In the Philippines the industry o f hemp - weaving exi sted before the o ccup ati o n by S pain in the six n h tee t a o s a . century . In m ny reg i n the pl nt grew wild The sides o f hill s o f vo lcanic o rigin are well suited to its o and - a so a air gr wth , fertile , well dr ined il , d mp , and protecti on from too much sun and wind are nec sa e s ry . Abaca is cut near to the roo ts before ﬂowering ! see 2 4 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

Figure the leave s and stalks are split open length w s and s s o a o i e , the trip bt ined fr m them dried in the s a f or a a s h de sever l d y . The ﬁber is taken in strip s

o o or s a o f a o f a fr m the peti le , t lk the le f the pl nt . A l arge kni fe is u sed to separate pulp and water from

s s s the trip , the trip being pulled between the kni fe

a an o f i bl de d a bl ck o wood . It s impo rt ant to remove all o f f or an a s a s the pulp , i f y rem in it d rken the ﬁber . The h ard outer ﬁber is used for co rdage and the inner f or hat a T o men can and s a a o . w br id , cut cr pe b ut

- ﬁv e o s o f da twenty p und ﬁber in a y. The different grades o f abaca are carefully sorted

r o f s ar into ﬁve o Six classe s. Fibers the ame quality e tied together by the rapid ﬁngers o f the weaver in a

o s a s a o s . No a l ng tr nd with ﬁrm , m ll kn t tying m chine

a s o f are too can make so good a kno t . I f p rt the ﬁber

d o a e ma o an . s ﬁne , piec y be d ubled tied Tying bec me

' can a os automatic so that an expert tyer lm t tie in the . ’ o s o o s o is dark . The w men inc me fr m thi w rk Often in a o to a a o so a o s dditi n their gricultur l w rk, th t their pr

erit is a o a f or a a p y gre t when c mp red , ex mple , with th t a s o r s s o f Ma a are o f the Chine se . H nk kein nil hemp exported in thi s knotted form f or manufacture into vari ous article s . Before J apan gained ﬁr st place by inventing cheap

f r a S a a and m achinery o br iding , witzerl nd , Fr nce , a s The Italy imported knotted hemp in l rge quantitie . f A r e f . e t. o r u tu Courte sy o U . S D p g ic l

r 2 n em and Figu e . Cutti g H p by H

26 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

and S a a o s . witzerl nd , the l tter pr ducing the be t The dyeing is better in the S wi ss straw ; the Japane se are o o not able to obta in so clear a c l r .

I mitation . Hemp A Germa n imitati on o f hemp is made Of cotton

i a is too a f o r a ta . s pe It extremely che p , but he vy

a s a comfo rtable straw hat and is not very s ti f ctory .

Machine - Made Braids

In 1 840 looms were adapted to straw - weaving and f r o the ﬁrst time braid w as woven by m achinery .

Machine - made braid s are rapidly increasing in num ber and seem destined to supplant h and - woven braids

os a o s o o alm t entirely . F ct rie in every c untry dem n s a are a o f o s trate thi s f ct . There number l arge c ncern

a S a s and a s o f Oper ting in the United t te , the v rietie

a and a a s s are s ne a m chinery m teri l u ed endle s . O l rge factory in Philadelphi a employs almo st every kind o f

a s a s a s m chinery u ed in textile br nche , we ving , pinning ,

a o . s a br iding , knitting , embr idery , etc It utilize m ny

s a a s all s and s s o f o o kind O f m teri l , kind ize c tt n ﬁber

so a and — a o s s o f ft , gl zed , mercerized v ri u kind

oo and o a s o f f a s a c a s w l m h ir , ilk dif erent gr de , rtiﬁ i l ilk ,

o s a co a art s etc . pyr xylin , tu c n rd hemp , r mie , lu ter , I t is difﬁcult to classi fy all braid s as either hand or

a - a s e so a s a s and s are m chine m de , inc m ny tr w ﬁber Cou r tesy of The Philippine Cr aftsman 0 i r hir een- r ai in achine F gu e 3 . T t Spool B d g M

HAT STRAW AND S TRAW BRAIDS 2 7

a o o is a s o made up in both w ys . The f ll wing de cripti n

o a t ac - a o f some o f the mo re imp rt n m hine m de braids .

o f s e o o r are o nd Few the ﬁber m nti ned , h weve , f u in

- a ds hand made br i .

Chip

C a is o oo a n a hip br id the nly w d br id in ge er l use . A large number o f willow chip hats are made in no rth

a in o o s ern It ly the Modena pr vince . The will ws u ed

o a o f P R a there gr w in the v lley the 0 iver . The Jp a s a a s a s a o ne e h ve been m king thi br id , the chip tr w fr m

s o f a a W and the tree J p n being very white . hite pine

Lo a o a and a so E s o and mb rdy p pl r, l the ngli h will w

E s a o a are s to nia ngli h n tive p pl r , u ed ke white chip

an - r hats . In S witzerl d wood chip and silk a e braided

o e i ﬁv n s t geth r . Chip s made in three e a d even end braids. The young tree is split into secti ons and pl aned sm ooth . Another speci al pl ane o f kni fe blades is then

a s o oa s s o o dr wn lengthwi e d wn the b rd , c ring l ng , ﬁne ,

a o t s o o an o f ma n rr w ut , but with ut rem ving y the

r i l ff n te a . s oo a a s s s s o a d A m th pl ne t ke the e ﬁne trip , a s o s oo is thin chip traw results . S metime the w d

o F and a o ss . or a p unded be ten in the pr ce ble ching ,

a a i n a s the m teri l s w ashed in acid s a d in alk lie .

hat is t s oo s The chip light in weigh , m th , inexpen ive , and h s o n is a t t a a a s s . a ft , dull ﬁni h Bendi g p o d m ge 2 8 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

and a is o as s o t a so e it , in gener l it m re e ily de tr yed h n m o a a ha a ther h ts . In recent ye rs hemp s l rgely taken

a o f s a s so a o the pl ce the ﬁne t chip h t , th t nly the

a a s re a so now che per gr de a gener lly ld . In the eightie s chip hats were very fashi onable f or summer wear .

Yedda

Yedda a w as s o a br id ﬁr t pr duced in It ly , but the

a a s a a an a o o J p ne e h ve m de imit ti n which , while inferi r to the a a a is so a a a It li n rticle , much che per th t the Jp a s Yedda is ne e handle the greater part o f the trade . a a ass o a a a and P s t ll gr gr wn in It ly, J p n , the hilippine , and o its a a hat a oa s fr m ﬁber light , delic te , with c r e,

oo Mo s edda is o l se weave is made . t y braid w ven by

a so o f a eddas are o m chinery , but me the f ncy y w ven by hand .

Rami e

o f a s s a oos and oa s are A number br id , u u lly l e c r e ,

a o a a o f non m de fr m the ﬁber Of the r mie , kind

ax stinging nettle which somewhat re sembles ﬂ . The i is a e and o a . s ﬁber ble ch d , dyed , w ven by m chinery It called China grass becau se it w as o rigin ally woven

C a now is o a o C a a a in hin , but it bt ined fr m hin , J p n ,

P s E W s and Eas s and the hilippine , gypt , the e t t Indie ,

o s s is o a e a southern c untrie . The be t gr wn ne r the qu HAT STRAW AND STRAW BRAIDS 2 9 tor a hot o s a and a so as , in , m i t clim te rich , d mp il ,

o s is a a frost kill s the ro t . It m nuf ctured chieﬂy in Ger

a a n a S a and the m ny , Fr nce , E gl nd , witzerl nd , United

S a s t te . Ra r is o a o the u t mie fibe , which bt ined fr m prigh s is on oss s and s o is tem , l g , gl y, ilky , very tr ng ; it s o a has o s f ss a flax and tr nger th n hemp , m re ti fne th n , h is a os as oss as s . a o as lm t gl y ilk Be uti ful , fine cl th

o a om s a C a l ng been m de fr it , e peci lly in hin , but the process o f separating the ﬁbers from the stem is dif ~ f eren r t when it is to be u sed f o braid . The ﬁbers are removed from the stem s by hand or

a E o is o o o ~ by m chinery. ither pr cess c stly i f d ne pr p

a s o f f o f s a a s erly bec u e the di ﬁculty ep r ting the ﬁber , and o f getting rid o f the gummy sub stance which

o s — o o s con h ld them t gether . The degumming pr ce s s s s o f o s s o f a so a i t b iling the trip r mie in diluted d , then

a a o and as ble ching them with p wder , w hing them in a s diluted cid . The be t part o f the carded and combed ” a a o o o s a o ﬁber , c lled in the f ct ry the c mbed t p , b ut

o f t is a ou f ur eet in leng h , dr wn t by drawing frame s

o a s or o o int fine liver c rd , put thr ugh a b ath to m ake s a o and the fiber dhere t gether , then treated to preserve the gloss . After thi s the fibers are twi sted o r m ade o a int br id . Ramie I s very durable and is not aff ected by water or o s o m i ture . It c uld be grown in the southern part 3 0 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT o f the United S tate s but the co st is too great to make

o o a is so the indu stry pr ﬁtable . The rdin ry nettle me f times u sed as a substitute or ramie .

Horsehair H air from the m anes and tail s o f h orses is m ade

o a s a o f o s a s int br id in number c untrie , but perh p the

s are a a S a a ma be t m nuf ctured in witzerl nd , l rgely by

The st o s a is ta S o chinery . be h r eh ir Ob ined in uth

a o s a a so o s o S a C a Americ . H r eh ir l c me fr m iberi , hin ,

nd a a Austr lia .

one o s a is s f oss and In f rm thi br id ti f , light , gl y ,

s o a - o i s s a re semble pen l ce w rk . It s u ed e peci lly in

' dressy hats and in th ose m ade partly o f other ma

ri is a so so te als . It l woven in a plain cl ose style me

a s ma as s wh t re embling hemp , but it y be e ily di tin g uished by the sharp little end s o f hair which are felt

a i ss o h when the h nd s pa ed ver the at.

Pyrox ylin The popularity o f hor seh air braid led to its imita

o an a a s o o as o ti n in rtifici l ilk pr duct , kn wn pyr xylin ! see manuals f or the S ilk Department and the Noti on Department Pyroxylin has been manufactured success fully f or only a few year s and expe riments are still being made W n o ss s a f or improving the fiber . he the pr ce fir t beg n

Chapter IV

S TRAW HAT- M AK ING

Hand - Made Hats

Until the last few centuries or until hat- making

a w as all s a a s and a s e m chinery invented , tr w h t br id wer

o a r m ade by hand . T d y they a e made by h and only a o I s a as a a C a a the where l b r che p , in J p n , hin , It ly ,

P s and C a and S o a hilippine , entr l uth Americ . The best examples come from Panama and the surrounding

o and o a a C a and P s c untry , fr m J p n , hin , the hilippine . The w ord straw is u sed here in its broadest mean

as os o use to all a s a o f ing, m t pe ple it include h t m de

s a ass s a s . a s a one tr w , , , , H , chip gr e p lm etc t m de in r o piece a e called b dy hat s .

r r B ody h ats a e m ade entirely by h and . They a e

as o f or a a a o a e ily rec g nized, m chine will pl it nly straight braid and cannot weave circularly from the f apex o f the cro wn to the edge o the brim . a s Figure 4 sh ows native s weaving h t by h and.

Panam a Hats

The P anam a hat is deservedly popular . It never

f I s s out o s . t s ss goe entirely tyle trength , lightne , ﬂex 3 2

STRAW HAT - MAKING 3 3

ibilit a a - o o and o o a y, cle r cre m white c l r, c mf rt ble ﬁt

o o s o s can s a rec mmend it highly t cu t mer . It t nd very

a a o e s sa a as an o h rd we r , th ugh it n ed the me c re y ther a s a is s a veget ble ﬁber. U u lly the trimming imple, ribbon or scarf making it appropri ate f or wear as a s o hat p rt .

Pa a a a s ma ass as and a n m h t y be cl iﬁed genuine , imit ti on

Genuine Panama Japanese Imitations

A damba

Toyo Formosa

Lo cati on of I ndustry

W Pa a a a s are a Pa a a is a hile few n m h t m de in n m , it

s f or a o s f or the di tributing center them , which cc unt

a o o e n me . Central and S uth American c ountries pr duc

a s a Co o a a and a a . m ny, e peci lly l mbi , Venezuel , Gui n

The high - grade hats come largely from Ecuado r and

P h u se eru . There as been a great increase in their in

a F s o n l te years . or centuries the indu stry w a carri ed

a s f No is by the Indi n o Central America. w it the

o a o f o s chief ccup ti n o rem te ettlement s . In the countries where it is made the Panama hat is al - a a a e o f a o the c led j ipi j p , the n m city c ncerned in a tr de . 3 4 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

Gath ering the Raw Mat erial The native s gather the leaves o f the Panama hat

a is a s a o a e p lm , which crew p lm gr wing wild in l rg

a s on low - a O o qu ntitie lying wet l nd . nly the y ung,

s a f an- s a a s are s Ca is tender , un pre d h ped le ve u ed . re

a not to the o o f the a t ken injure gr wing center p lm,

o o o s ma o fr m which ther cr p y be btained .

W o s ff a s are s hen the y ung, ti , perfect le ve ecured ,

are a t o s s s they d mpened , Spli int hred with the ﬁnger , or a s s and s and the s r rely with in trument , the vein rib o f a are o s s are not the pl nt rem ved . The trip fully e separated but are left at the base o f the lea f . The s s a hredded leave s are called cogollo in the tr de .

Tough ening and Bl eaching Large earthenware j ar s about four feet deep are

a to o f o r ﬁlled with w ter , which the juice ﬁve Six

i s a r so lemon s s added . In the e j ars the le ve s a e aked

a and from six to ten days. Thi s m kes them pli able ré

o s a and s S om s a s are m ve the s p re in . etime the le ve

re a steeped in boiling water . They a then ble ched in

sun f or or o a s or o a the three f ur d y , until they bec me

a e Pa a a a s are a cre m whit . n m h t which ble ched by thi s natural metho d the best one are never o f a

r The so s s are ma e pure o dead white. rted trip then d

s two o s up and sold in bunche weighing p und . STRAW HAT- MAKING 3 5

P l aiting b y the Nativ es

The hats are made in the villages by families or by

o s o f a a a s who a f or gr up cqu int nce g ther the purpose .

r ll s o f s u There a e a grade kill . The children se the poorer straw and each child can make two o f the

oa s a s one da o f h c r er h t in y. A few the adults w o have gained a reputation as the most expert weavers o f the village make the very ﬁne hats that require several

o s o f a o and s f or m nth l b r great skill . The e were merly sold in Europe or in S outh America f or abo ut

1 0 hat o f can o o s $ 5 . A thi s kind be f lded int the ize o f a a - se Mos o f a s are so w tch ca . t the h t which ld in Ameri ca f or $5 to $ 1 0 take two or three days in mak

I n g .

Process of Making A wooden block o f the required shape is placed be

o s o f o a tween or n the knee the w rker . The pl iting s a s o to o f o o a o t rt fr m the p the cr wn , g ing r und in cir

ul are o f f o s c ar form . There a number di ferent meth d ’ o f a a s s s o f o is we ving . The we ver en e t uch very deli

n i ar a not to cate a d their sight s good . They e c reful h a t e s a s and s a e a a . bre k tr nd , mu t h v gre t p tience

Mo s s a a o a i ture keep the m teri l ﬂexible , theref re the p rt

th h is o o is Of e at that being w rked up n kept wet .

O a hat is o a as has so nly r rely the w ven under w ter, me Th a o f Pa a a hat o s times been said . e pl iter the n m w rk 3 6 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

o ﬁ v e to s o s a da o and fr m even h ur y, in the m rning or at s i a o s o s . evening night , when the tm phere m i t If

hat is o in o f da is the w ven the middle the y, when it

hot and s a o s and a s dry, the tr w bec me brittle bre k

as s is an o h Th aso e ily ; the re ult inferi r at. e rainy se n is th s f or e be t weaving .

Finishing A fter a hat has been woven in a single piece and

s is as and a a on the edge ﬁni hed , it w hed g in put the

o is a i a oo a and bl ck , where it be ten w th w den h mmer

o a l to a e oo I t is ﬁn ir ned c refu ly m k it sm th . then

ish d and f r s T e a o . o o re dy hipping prevent m ulding ,

o d s is s a s dry , p w ered ulphur prinkled between the h t in

a . are as so C a and C a p cking They e ily ld , ub entr l

W a ar re America being good markets . hen the h ts e ceiv ed a a s s a a o and here , m nuf cturer u u lly ble ch , rebl ck ,

s ﬁni h them .

Method o f Cleaning It is Often well to tell a cu stomer facts about the h P a o f a at s a a a a . a c re , e peci lly the n m The ble ching o f hats with oxalic acid which is cu stomary in thi s

o to a is o s oss c untry m ke them pure white , the w r t p ible

f S a a s a s treatment or them . uch ble ching gent c u e the nd irn air its a ﬁber to deteriorate a greatly p dur bility . W hen soiled the hat should be washed with a pure soap

3 8 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

o o is t in a s o to The T y nex qu lity , elling fr m i $6. It was introduced nto the United S tates in 1 9 1 4

and has s a as o a raw te dily incre ed in p pul rity . The

a a is a so o f o o s a o m teri l rt t ugh , thin , ﬁbr u p per , f lded or cru shed from abo ut a half inch in width to the

o f s a s Pa a a no a width the tr w . Thi n m will t cr ck when

nor s o t o r a as a and bent be p iled by dir w ter , cle ning reblo kin s o t it o o c g re t re it o s f rmer c ndition .

least ex ensiv e o osa s s o 1 to The p , the F rm , ell fr m $ $5 and may be distingui shed by faint spots th at mar

a is a so a o f a the pure white qu lity . It l m de p per .

W enchow

C s o hat a W o is a A hine e b dy , c lled the ench w , m de

o a s o s ff ass an o - and- fr m tr ng , ti gr , with ver under

a o a is a a s or we ve , which in cl th m king c lled imple

a a s o s . t bby we ve . It re embles cl se square me h netting

L Pa a a is a a one . ike the n m it pl ited by h nd , in piece It may be embro idered easily and eff ectively with n m an o o o o a s a d a . c l red y rn , y be dyed y c l r

Philippine Hats In the Philippine I sland s many varieties o f hat s are

a a so o f one and so o f s m de by h nd , me piece me ewn braid . The most important varieties o f these hats are as follows STRAW HAT- MAKING 39

B amboo Buri

K alasio Buntal Pandan

In certain sections o f the i sland s the natives f or

’ merly w o rked upon m aterial which w as rare in their

o oo an a a e o f neighb rh d , while they neglected bund nc o a a a was o s at a ther m teri l th t cl e h nd , but the United S tates Government is now teaching them better

o s meth d . The raw material is Obtained mo stly from bamboo

and a o s a A s in o coimtries s . e v ri u p lm ther , the tim o f day when the weaving is done is an impo rtant con

s a o f or a o f the da s aw ider ti n , during the he t y the tr

n on s o a will become brittle a d crack . In e ecti n we ving

is o s a o s a s s o a d ne in h ll w well , where the we ver it up n low a o pl tf rm .

Th os a e is Tw o weaves are u sed . e cl e we v

a t a are a t to a t ad ptable o str w s which p cr ck if ben .

s o o o s a s f ss a Thi meth d , h wever , pr duce gre ter ti fne th n

o o is s an o or o r the ther meth d , which imply pen ve

- f and a a a or a e o a . under we ve , like d rn the we v burl p

B ambo o H at s Many bamboo hats are worn in the United S tates by

o and o S o are o as a a or b th men w men . me kn wn J v 40 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

Ma a a s ra nil h t . The w m ateri al go es through many

o ss s a o s a o s a pr ce e which , lth ugh imple, t ke c n ider ble

o s a is o a time bef re the perfect, even tr w bt ined . In the fall the bamboo is gathered and the tall stalk s are s a f or s a a s o o dried in the h de ever l d y . Fr m ten t twenty o f the middle secti ons o f each stalk are then

at o or o s s o s at o o cut the j ints n de . The ecti n the b tt m

o s are a o o s o where the n de ne rer t gether , pr duce h rt s a and os at to a a a tr w th e the p yield we k m teri l . The secti ons ch osen are split from the center into

s a s s and a is s a on ever l piece lengthwi e , e ch piece cr ped the s f or a a is too a and oa s in ide , the inner m teri l we k c r e to s Th e s s o a are a o one be u ed . e pi ce thu bt ined b ut

o f the o i a ss and are s o eighth r gin l thickne , they plit int

o r a s not o o ﬁve Six thin l yer , c unting the green uter s a s to o kin which is di scarded . The l yer next the uter

s are the a s s and s o s . are kin d rke t , ﬁne t , tr nge t All bo iled in water f or h al f an h our to toughen and partly

a and are a sun. ble ch them , then ble ched in the The w omen so rt them and they are sold in bundles in the market s or directly to the weavers .

W eaving B amboo

a s who are os o s a The we ver , m tly w men , ﬁni h prep r f a oo o f sa s aw. s a s o ing the tr Fir t , l yer b mb the me

‘ quality are chosen and split into narrow strip s with an

l a a o f s a s at one o f aw . By m king fringe tr w end the STRAW HAT- MAKING 4 1 piece o f bamboo and running the awl over and under

s the awl s s o to s a the e, plit the wh le in tr w when the s s a s are so hat in piece is pulled . The e tr w mew uneven width and thickness and hence must be shaved off in a Simple machine which is made by the weaver

s is W eaving is easy because the traw ﬂexible . I f

is s to s a so the hat o s water u ed keep the tr w ft , bec me

o yell w . The close weave has to be used with bamboo and

s ff s o o so help s give it ti ne s . The w men bec me expert with their ﬁngers that they can almost weave in their

The l n h o f o s - in a sleep. e g t time c n umed m king the variou s grades o f bamboo h ats co rresponds to that s n on Pa amas se a o s f or oa s s and pe t n , ver l h ur the c r e t

s f or s several month the ﬁne t .

D oubl e Hats Most bamboo hats are made do uble to give sufficient s and s f ss o s h trength ti fne . The uter hat i ﬁner than t e on s inner e . Fini hing the brim by j oining the edges is expert work and is generally done by speci al

o The is w rkers . under brim trimmed somewh at s a a o and s a s o f o hat m ller th n the uter , the tr w the uter are turned back and under and woven into the edge o f E a a o f the under brim . x min ti n o a bamboo hat will sh o how f i s o s w di f cult thi w rk mu t be . The outer hat is sometimes dyed a different colo r 4 2 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

o the one ma t a a fr m under , which y be lef the n tur l

D s an a s ct as o cream col or . ye d ble che a very e ily up n

o s as a o a a bamb o traw . The l t Oper ti n in m nuf cturing a bamboo hat is to trim the proj ecting straw s and to poli sh it to a ﬁner lu ster by means o f some smooth f a s a s as a o a o . h rd urf ce , uch th t b ttle

Q ualities of th e B amb oo Hat S izmg I s needed to furni sh stiffness enough to keep the s a e as a oo is so and a h p , the b mb light ﬂexible

a str w .

B amboo h ats are strong but are not so long- lived as

os P a s a o o a o m t hilippine h t , lth ugh pr b bly m re Of them

s ar no o o s than o f other kind e w exp rted . The h le

a a s o a a oo hat and a a m de by h tpin Sh w in b mb d m ge it , though thi s may be concealed by the trimming o r by

s o f as as o a w a u ing other methods f tening . A f hi n ble y

’ o f i one s aso w as a o tr mming, during e n , by p inting up n the s a o f hat s s o s or o urf ce the , bird , vine , ﬂ wer , ther ’

D s a s re o a o f a oo . decoratio ns . oll h t a ften m de b mb

Buri Hats From the buri palm three distinct varieties o f h ats

are a . s a a s are a o m de The ﬁr t , c lled buri h t , m de fr m

a s ha s r oa the bl ades o f the unopened le f . The e t a e c rse

ar s a o r and not very durable . They e uit ble only f outing hats and are sold cheaply at summer resorts and ’ STRAW HAT- MAKING 43

A r ff the s as . s a e a a s b a s e ide they n tur lly ti , ec u e the

s a is a oa and o are not s tr w r ther br d t ugh , they ized .

s a re o or are Neither , u u lly , a they bl cked trimmed , but ’ C a s o f r bleached white . hildren s h t buri a e m ade very a a e a a o o s s Th ttr ctiv by we ving in few c l red traw . e

is s is s h h n ea . a o t e Ope w ve u ed Buri e ily dyed , th ug a niline dyes now u sed fade m ore rapidly than the

ta es a s a vege ble dy which they h ve di pl ced .

K alasio Hats Another variety macle from the buri pal m is the

K alasio hat a f or one o f o s is , n med the t wn where it

a s s r a o o f h m de . The e h at a e m de fr m the midrib t e

o a a a is s o a am oo un pened le f . The m teri l tr nger th n b b and o o d o es not crack when bent . W hen br ught fr m

P i is a os o s s t . O the hilippine r ther c tly ther c untrie ,

M f h o a o or s a a a s a at e . exic , in t nce , m ke imil r m r che ply The structure resembles that o f the bamboo hat a

h a E a double at skil fully j oined t the edge . ither we ve ma s o r o o f o t a an o f y be u ed b th them t gether , wi h b d the open weave around the brim o f a closely w o ven h s is s ha at. A dull ﬁni h given by du ting the t with s ulphur .

Buntal Hats The third kind o f hat m ade from the buri palm is

a hat is a S tates the bunt l , which c lled in the United 44 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

Eas a Pa a a or a a s t Indi n n m , It li n traw . The

s o f a o f a m is s tem the Opened le f the p l u ed . The meth od o f m anufacture is very similar to those pre v iousl s a s a f y de cribed . The n tive divide the l bo r o

a a nd s S a is a . s prep ring, pl iting, ﬁni hing ince the tr w

a a s f can a too s ff s n tur lly ti f , it be m de ti with izing , h i s a . a a s are s o and whic defect Bunt l h t tr ng , light ,

oo o s Pa a a ar l k m re ilky in texture than a n m . They e f ’ o a s a or s s a s . quite p pul r , e peci lly men ummer h t The

ss is not a o are a h whitene ret ined l ng , but i f they ble c ed

a oo s oo a s is when cle ned they l k a g d s new . The ﬁni h

a a a s os a Obt ined by ironing . Bunt l h t in the cl e we ve are the ﬁne st produced in the Philippines and are

a os r ther c tly .

P andan Hat s

P r n andan h at s a e strong a d last well . They h ave a a a a or o o o and are o f s a n tur l gr y br wn c l r , wide tr w

oa s a a Ma a as a s s giving a c r e appe r nce . d g c r upplie

o o is so a the se hats at a low price . The c l r attr ctive

o naturally that they are not ften bleached .

Mino r Hat Mater ial s Among the minor m ateri al s from which h ats are

P s are a ac s in m ade in the hilippine bl k fern tem , the terior o f a s o s a ass the veget ble p nge , rice tr w , gr , the ha i a o f a ta and o a s . s a t s e c t il , ther pl nt An unu u l m d

Chapter V

MACHINE - M ADE S TRAW HATS

D ev elopment of I ndustry The word manufacture is applied to the making

o f a s a or a a h t whether by h nd by m chine , but h ving considered typical method s o f making hats and braids

an s a now a o s o f ma by h d , we h ll t ke up the meth d king

and treating hats in factories. Facto ry hat manufacture is a development o f the

as and and a o f l t century , the number , extent , v riety hat a o s not o in S a s f ct rie , nly the United , but ‘ t te

o o the o are s s a . thr ugh ut civilized w rld , urpri ingly l rge A hat factory is a most intere sting and instructive pl ace to s s a one o s o a so vi it , e peci lly i f kn w bef reh nd mething a o o ss s and aso f r b ut the pr ce e the re ns o them .

Locati o n of Factories

n al o s o os In ge er , the c untrie which pr duce the m t raw material f or hats are those which h ave the greate st

e o f a o s s a o s numb r f ct rie , except the m ll c untrie like

P s o a o is not s the hilippine , where the p pul ti n yet indu

a o trial but mainly agricultural . All l rge c untrie s

are a o an a a s which indu stri lly devel ped m uf cture h t , 46 MACHINE - MADE STRAW HATS 47

and s alt o S a s o es al os thu , h ugh the United t te pr duc m t no raw a a f or a s o o oo and m teri l h t except c tt n , w l , fur , h it as many hat factories .

- Very . few machine stitched braid hats are imported ; m ost hats o f thi s so rt are made here from impo rted s braid .

D iff e rent Kinds o f Factories The modern hat facto ry has many specialized de

f o f partments and a highly organized sta f employee s . There are variou s types o f factories and e stabli sh ments connected directly with the hat industry . They may be classiﬁed as foll o ws :

o o a s and o 1 . F reign h u ses th at receive br id b dy hats and ship them a fte r putting them o s i o ss s o f thr ugh the ﬁni h ng pr ce e dyeing ,

a i and o . S o s s ﬂ o ble ch ng , bl cking uch h u e ur

ish o s o f C a a a and o ou in p rt hin , J p n , ther c n f tries that export l arge quantities o hats .

There are many in the United S tate s.

2 a o s s o s and . F ct rie that make up braid int h at

occasi onally handle imported bo dy hats . These buy almost exclusively from impo rters

o f a s an o o br id d b dy h ats in the r ugh .

. a and s ha a o s 3 Felt , pile f bric , ilk t f ct rie , which may o r may not be associated with the straw a o s f ct rie . 48 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

4 . M s o s and a o s a illinery h p f ct rie , including dep rt s o e o oo s ment t r w rkr m , where untrimmed

a s are a s are a o f h t trimmed , h t m de braid by

a on a o r a s im h nd wire , buckr m , net fr me ,

o o s o p rted m del c pied , etc .

. o s and a a s o f o s o 5 Imp rter m nuf cturer ﬂ wer , f li

a e a s s o a o g , fe ther , trimming , rn ments, n vel

s o s s oo s a tie , ribb n , ilk g d , m line , etc . Ma 6 . a s o f hat a s hat s ban nuf cturer fr me , lining , a de ux , etc . M . a a s o f s s a s 7 nuf cturer dye , ﬁni he . l cquer , glue ,

c s a s s as o s ement , izing , v rni h , die , pl ter bl ck ,

s f o r h a s . use at a o s . ewing m chine , etc , in f ct rie

A descripti on o f the second cl ass o f facto ries will includ e the method s o f the ﬁrst class .

Receiv ing the Braids

a s are e a s o r as s see The br id , which rec ived in b le c e !

a om s 60 a s n t Figure gener lly c e in piece y rd in le g h ,

- M a weighing one fourth o f a p ound . anuf cturers

T a o ften o rder pieces at once . ag l braid from

a a o s 2 s o f 80 a s a to a J p n c me 5 piece y rd e ch bundle ,

t bo x C s a is and pieces o a . hine e br id tied up

o s 60 or 1 2 0 a s o 2 0 s to int piece y rd l ng , with 4 piece the

a a a s o a s to bale . The l rger m nuf cturer empl y gr der a s separate the grade s o f braid into several cl sse . The

o s o f a a a a so and c ntent e ch b le v ry in qu lity, me ﬁner

MACHINE - MADE STRAW HATS 49

l i s o oa s and . a s et cc o s me c r er , in width The v ue a rd

s a s a a a o a s ing to quality . Thi c reful t nd rdiz ti n m ke

o s f or a al o f one a and one uni f rm price m teri qu lity , cu stomer or retailer cannot compl ain that his ship

s i o to a o at sa ment o f hat s inferi r n ther the me price .

S ew i ng the Braid into Hats The manu facturer s generally make up h ats in quan

r La a to s tity only as o rders a e received . rge f c rie with

s f a a to s so s a a is u ﬁcient c pit l ri k , metime m ke up wh t

o as oo oo s a a a f or kn wn ﬂ r g d , nticip ting the dem nd

a s Ea o a o o s on on s a a few sh pe . ch per t r w rk e peci l

o and is s a o a to a at m del , u u lly given en ugh br id m ke

as o o o f s o f hat a s le t f ur d zen the de ired type . The h t are Shaped from a pl aster block which is given to the

o ra o and a a new s a is pe t r , ch nged whenever h pe

s wanted . S ometimes manufacturers m ake hat up

a a o f o and o o he d time , c pying m difying imp rted o s o o are or s v m del , but m re ften they behind ju t e en

o with their rders .

a o s o a a oo on o The Oper t r w rk in l rge , light r m p wer s a s Of a s a a a sew ewing m chine peci l m ke , th t either o or s as o h by l ck chain titch . The pl ter bl cks by whic the Operators shape the hats h ave been molded by pl as terers in another part o f the facto ry into the exact s a s s s s a s are h pe de ired . The e h pe generally either

o s o f o o s or a a a o s o f as c pie imp rted m del d pt ti n them , 50 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

imported styles are apt to be too extreme f or the

A a as o a o s a and meric n t te . The per t r wet the br id s s a a and ss is s ew with gre t r pidity deftne . It intere t ing to know that the sewers receive more per yard f o r sewing by machine than the w oman received f o r pl ait a ing the br id by hand in di stant China .

S iz ing

s a s are a to s oo The ewed h t then t ken the izing r m , where they are dipped into a kind o f starch to stiffen

s an s ff o f s hat them . The lu ter d ti ness the ﬁni hed s depend very largely upon the kind o f sizing u ed .

Bl ocking The hats are dried on shelves placed one above an other in the drying room and are then passed to the

o a are o hot bl cking dep rtment , where they ﬁtted up n metal bl ock s exactly similar in shape to the pl aster

o s u s f a bl ck which g ided the ewing o the br id . The

o s are a ss s or s a s o bl ck pl ced in pre e t mper , which w rk

a ss s re se f or by hydr ulic pre ure . Hydraulic pre ses a u d

a s e a s oo s and s a s f or h t r quiring m th ﬁni h , tem m chine

a s a ar to a ff a h t th t e h ve a rough e ect . The hydr ulic

ss is to 1 00 o s ss a is s on pre ure 7 5 p und , much le th n u ed h i a at s 00 o s . s a felt , where it Often 5 p und Thi Oper

o ss s a s o s a o f a ti n pre e the h t int the h pe the met l die , which when it is made o f zinc spelter averages 1 1 0 o nds p u in weight .

Chapter VI

F ELT HATS

F elting Properti es of W ool and Fur

The basal fact upon which the wh ole process o f mak ing felt o r articles o f felt re sts is the felting property peculiar to fur and w ool ; some kind s po sse ss thi s felt

o a a a o ing pr perty jn gre ter degree th n thers . ! W hen wool or fur ﬁbers are Vi ewed under a micro

s o e a s a s are s o e c p , m ny tiny c le een up n th ir apparently

smoo s a f ac t some s se to ma th urf ce ; in , ﬁber em be de ’ o f s a s all o one o the up c le , p inting in directi n , like a i ridges on a pine cone .) Hum n hair s like th at ; if the s are run a o a s a o a ﬁnger l ng ingle h ir , it will be f und th t they will slide d own m ore smo othly th an they will run

on a o o f s a s. W en s are up , cc unt the c le Eh fur ﬁber put h ’ into hot water the scale s expand and do not cling so

a is a tightly to the ﬁber . Then when the w ter dr ined

n a s os ow on a a a Off a d the sc le cl e d n the h ir g in , they

a nd o s a s on a a a s mat: c tch a interl ck with c le dj cent h ir . ting the ﬁbers together m ore and m o re ﬁrmly as the i a s is ool oo s con process s repe ted . Thi why w en g d tinne to shrink unless prope rly handled in washing. 52 FELT HATS 53

S ource s of Felt The raw materi al f or making felt h ats comes from

a a s o f o s a o s a a m ny p rt the w rld , e peci lly fr m Au tr li , Z R ss a S a nd o a is a a a S . New e l nd , u i , iberi , c tl nd Fur

a a s a s oo is o the m teri l u ed in the better h t , but w l m re

‘ o o and a a s a a s o f o o c mm n , in che p gr de , dulter nt c tt n “ ” ' h a e are s . W oo as or o s as t e u ed l w te , the n il f c

o s a a o f s a a o r M o oo t rie c ll it , prefer bly Au tr li n erin w l , i is the part o f woo l u sed f o r felt . It s bought in the greasy state f rom woolen factories . Mo st o f the f ur w as o rig inally obtained from

a s f o o in s be ver , which were rmerly f und number in the

’ o s a o f h nit d s n a a n rthwe tern p rt t e U e S tate a d in C n da .

I n o o s a s a oss s a They live c l nie , building d m cr m ll s a s and on a a s to tre m by night , c ce ling the entr nce their mud houses on thebank by having the opening several

“ a and s a o a feet under w ter the pa s geway sl ping upw rd .

O o s o o Rus ther prized fur c me fr m the tter , mink , s a a e S a o a S o a S o o and i n h r , x ny h re , c tch h re , c tch c ney ,

n o a Fre ch c ney ! r bbit ) .

M a and a a o s u skr t nutri h ve al s been u ed . The

s a o r s as a a o f Ca a a is a o s mu kr t mu qu h , n tive n d , c u in * J - f s a H l houses as do s o a . e s the be ver , but m ller bui d e

and i ol is s f or the beaver s very pr iﬁc . The pelt old “ ” s R M o r so fur as iver ink Hud n S eal . The fur o f a o r o rat is o t o S o the nutri , c ypu , imp r ed fr m uth i f r America . It s m ost impo rtant to get the fur o b ats 54 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT at o s aso is the pr per e n . much the best in the winter

is not f or a a and is when it being ed w rm we ther , called seasoned f ur ; at all other times it is known i as unseasonedf The thickest fur is obtaine d from a a s a a nim l which live in cold clim te .

F irs t Process Receiving the skin s and preparing the fur f or the hat- a is a os a s a a a a o ss m ker lm t ep r te m nuf cturing pr ce , l performed by speci a ized facto ries . The skins are ﬁr st sorted by experts into eight or ten

a s a o to o o or a are gr de cc rding kind , c l r , qu lity . They s to s a out and as e bru hed tr ighten the fur , then , ther

’ are s o a s s t o o so tiff l ng h ir ticking up hr ugh ut the ft ,

o n as a as oss are o d w y fur , m ny p ible rem ved by pluck in ss o s not a e a o c th . g , pr ce whi h d e h rm fur

W ashing the Skins

The s s are a d o f the a a t o f kin then cle ne f tty m t er,

is a a a o and n a which there l rge m unt , in beaver utri “ l s o ss is o as a o skins especia ly . Thi pr ce kn wn c rr t ” in is as a so o o f and g , which w hing in luti n mercury ” a Ca o is so a d o o o nitric cid . rr ting c lle fr m the c l r

a it imp rts.

Drying and Cuttin g

s s are a l d s and The kin c refu ly drie , bru hed , then cut into narrow strips by a machine which at the same F ELT HATS “55

os to he s n The s time shea rs the fur cl e t ki . pelt trip s

sho rn o f the ﬂeece in thi s way are used f or by- products n such as glue a d gelatin .

S orting and Grading The fur ﬂeece is then sorted into grades according

a o s a o f l e o f a ani to qu lity . The ch ice t p rt t f ﬂeece l nd

a s is a and o f a a a s and m l the b ck , w ter nim l the belly checks ; towards the outer edges o f the skin the qu ality

o a s S om s the is s o to o deteri r te . etime fur t red impr ve with a e and so s a has car . g , metime dyed fter it been

o and a I t ma and a so r ted gr ded . y be mixed blended l e o e so a o o e one ar b f r being ld , c mm n mixtur being p t ncarrote a rr ted is o u d to tw o p rts ca o . It put int 5 and 1 0 pound bags and sold to the hat m anufacturer . " 5 The process from here on is identical f or both fur and oo and s o a o w l , it h uld be remembered th t the w rd ” o m f r o o w ol ay be substituted o fur thr ugh ut .

Mix ing

W s ar a a hen the ﬂeece e received by the m nuf cturer , the ﬁrst process is weighing and mixing the grades to

a a s f ff s s o ss s m ke h t o di erent qualitie . Thi pr ce require o e s o t and o are expert kn wledg . The h r the l ng fur o mixed t gether .

Cl eansing the F ur To mix the fur and to clean se it two machines are MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

s s is a u ed . The ﬁr t c lled a devil The fur is fed

o s o ss and w and thr ugh it three time , being t ed hirled picked apart by revolving teeth and settling again in o to a o ss a s has rder h ve the pr ce repe ted . The fur till

a s s o f oa s a s and s in it h ir , bit pelt , c r e p rticle , du t , which are next rem oved by a m achine called a ” o a a a a s s o f a bl wer . A cylindric l pp r tu , in ide which toothed cylinder revolve s several th ou sand time s a

oss s a is o to minute, t e the fur upw rd where it bl wn a o a s a o o n ther m chine , while the impuritie f ll d wn up n a s s ‘ s o a o is a creen which i ft s them . Thi per ti n repe ted s a s ever l time .

Forming

o ss is a o The next pr ce c lled f rming . In prep a a o f o r the a o f f o r a hat r ti n it ex ct weight fur , in the

as o f a so hat o to o r six o s is c e ft fr m three ﬁve unce ,

x o o f s o s o f put into a little b o . A d zen the e b xe fur are o a as and o s o on then put int c e , fr m thi p int the

h ats c ontinue to be grouped by dozens .

o a o s box bo x o An per t r feed the fur , by , thr ug h

o s o a a a o c r ller , int the m chine c lled f rmer , whi h

h o s ma r s a s at . roughly form s o h pe the b dy Thi chine ,

1 8 6 uc cos o f a o to a o invented in 4 , red ed the t l b r b ut

- a o f one tenth that o f the slo w h and meth od . A p rt the machine whirls and scatter s the fur A cone o f thin

o a o a a o s is s ow c pper pl te, perf r ted with m ny tiny h le , l FELT HATS 57 l o a s t o f an o s y rev lved , while uc i n rev lving very wi ftly about time s a minute belo w the c one draw s

’ the fur down evenly all over the cone s surface and

W et o s a re o o mats the ﬁbers together . cl th thr wn ver

o a o o a o o f sa s a is the c ne , n ther perf r ted c ne the me h pe

‘ a o and o is o a a o f ho t pl ced ver it , the wh le put int t nk water f o r a minute and then p assed to the next proce ss;

Felting Pro ce ss Begun

s a as o s o t e hot Thi m tted fur , even it c me fr m h

i o f ha i a s t o . s a o w ter , the beginning the b dy It b ut ’ s a o w a s s a three time l rger , h ever , th n the ﬁni hed h pe so 2 s and 6 s a me 3 inche deep 3 inche in di meter .

o be s a at s o f or The c ne might di c rded thi p int , the

o ss o f has a pr ce felting re lly beg un . In o rder to harden the fur bo dies enough to prevent break age in l ater h andling they are wrap ped in a wo olen clOth Still ﬁ a a to o s e l l a s tt ched their c ne , r gently by h nd , queezed ,

n s a d pres ed .

S izing

The sizi ng proce ss now begin s ; a fter f it has been re peated the co ne s are reduced to one - third the o riginal

Size . Three o r fou r cone s are dipped to gether into a

a o f w a at bo i o s a and t nk ter kept the ling p int by te m ,

o l o a s o a is a a then r l ed up n l ping t ble , which c lled ” a b ttery . 58 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

ats are ta e out o f o a The h k n the b iling w ter quickly ,

a a and a a o a on wr pped in burl p , g in r lled gently by h nd

o A s o ss is a the table t dry them . the pr ce repe ted the

a s ma a e ss s o s h t y be tre t d le gently , ince the felt c ntinue

to o o o s to knit more cl sely t gether . The r lling tend mat the ﬁbers closely as they press together and spring

! back . I n cheaper grade hats thi s process is done by m ne a is o s ac o . , but the h nd meth d c n idered better uction and ss s o The in Size thickne mu t be unif rm ,

n h ur s an o s a d t ed by haking d turning the c ne . By thi s any imper fections are di scovered and / T s o cted t o o a s h uld be a thi s p int . F reign p rticle which have oval by previous cleansing S

s a s a is and mu t be t ke elv ge trimmed , the Size in which the hat isl pb e ﬁni shed is marked on the edge by a notch/

Dye ing The mixture o f the different col ors o f the raw

a a s s a s a o and m teri l re ult in a gr y h de in the b dy , i f. the

a s are to are o s a o s at s h t be dyed , they b iled ever l h ur thi

s a so o o f he s o o is t ge in a luti n t de ired c l r . The dye in large vats and is con stantly stirred to give uni form

o a r colo r . In the drying r om the h ts a e dried th o r

a a r r oughly at a high temper ture . Co l ta products a e

generally empl oyed f o r dyeing .

60 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

o so and s f a s o now on a b th ft ti f h t , but fr m the tre t

i f s ment s di ferent . The o ft h at s are dried a fter the

a o so a a s a s a e and m chine bl cking , ftened g in by te m , h p d s a o a o f s s a tretched by h nd ver die the de ired h pe ,

o a a hot fo and to oo a ir ned by h nd with i n , put c l in

o a s h s a o f a s is too c ld w ter pre s . I f t e urf ce the h t

o all or a o f na is m o d a a r ugh , p rt the p re ve by m chine

a s a a hat ma o s with h rp kni fe bl de . The y be p li hed and rubbed to bring out the be st effect o f the dye s and to o s S om co o s a v a o o ss ff give a gl s . e l r h e m re gl y e ect

a o s s c s th n ther . The ﬁni hing in lude trimming the

s o a are ac brim . After an in pe cti n the h t s p ked in

a o an s s a f o r b ndb xes d put in ca e re dy Shipment .

D iff erent Grade s of Felt

’ a s s ss I n a s is s a The l rge t bu ine felt h t in men we r ,

’ as there is a staple dem and f o r men s felt h ats . The

’ am ount o f felt u sed in w o men s he adgear v arie s in di f f r n s are a f a s and e e t year . There m ny di ferent gr de

s o f s s o o a s and a s ﬁni hes felt . Be ide w l h t fur h t there are mixture s in whi ch the w oo l is u sually underneath .

a s o f s a o a i o o f c a s w oo H t w , c mbin t n the he pe t l and o o are a o a s are so o a c tt n , m de nly when felt h t p pul r th at a very low - priced felt is dem anded by a par t o f the

‘ s ma and do w n trade . The ﬁni h y be thick y , Or like

Lo a s are a a s a vel our with little nap. ng h ir ch r cteri tic a s o f the scratch or moh ir ﬁni h . FELT HATS 61

Recently there has been shown a felt o f a beauti ful

s dis s o s s so s ca a u . lu tr u fini h , metime lled ch rme e The tin i hin a s are s htl oos na and g u s g fe ture the lig y l e p, o s the poli shed sur f aee f o f the flat nap. The vel ur fini h is den se and erect .

Hist ory of Fe lt Hats

Felt hat manufacture is a very old industry - { A c i a a e t C o to one s o t w s o S . c rding t ry rigin t d by lement , and s a o f a s to on his da the fe tiv l the tr de u ed be held y,

- f o b f o s re n o . O the twe ty third N vem er c ur e , until

a s all o a o s or a cent ye r the per ti n were perf med by h nd ,

o ma has usur ed ev er o c ss al but m dern chinery p y pr e , ’ though it is still believed that the hand process m akes a so a hat mewh t better .

‘ Q A s a matter o f fact felt hats date back to a time even ’ a s to O ne o f e rlier than the legend ju t referred . the ” s o f a Ro a a s a as s type ncient m n h t , c lled the pet u ,

o on a o w as ha s now w rn j urney , much like the felt t u sed .

M a o s r a s any tr diti n a e connected with caps and h t .

o t e Ro a a a s o f Am ng h m ns the c p w s a ymbo l liberty . W earing a hat in medieval times al so w as a m ark o i — w s di tincti on .

a s a to o s a H tter beg n ﬂ uri h in Nuremberg , Germ ny , as a as 1 6 1 had a o e rly 3 9 . In 453 the French d pted head o rin o o a a s a s c v e g generally . In c l ni l d y the h tter MILLINERY DEPARTMENT o f England complained o f the competiti on o f the

a o o s and s a has Americ n c l nie , ever ince Americ been

o hatAmakin a o so a s very pr ﬁcient in g , lth ugh ft felt h t

not o 1 8 0 were w rn here until 5 . To day some o f the ﬁne st hat s in the world are made

A a s o f s are P a a in meric . Center the indu try hil delphi

R n Dan d P ra n a . an d . a a . O e a e ding , ; g New rk , N J;

n nd o k s a d a d o a Co . a bury , Bethel , N rw lk , nn , Y n er n

the s a a s are oo . . Br klyn , N Y At pre ent time m ny h t exported from the United S tates . Chapter VII

VELVET A ND OTH ER FAB RIC H ATS

Use o f Vel v et and O the r Fabri cs in H at s Velvet is u sed a great deal f or hats and hat trim

ha o a f o r a s mings . It s been p pul r he dgear ince it w as introduced in England at the time o f the Norman Con

s O i o o o o que t , when the men the n bility w re bright c l red clothing and cap s or bonnets o f velvet ado rned with

o l ng plum es .

Manufacture o f P ile Fabrics Velvet is called a pile fabric because o f the so ft nap o r pile which hides the cloth that fo rms the back o f the

a a o f os all is o f o o m teri al . The b ck alm t velvet c tt n ; the i o f s is o a a pile s ilk . The pile f rmed by c rrying p rt o f the warp thread over a wire and cutting the loop s a wa s o r a s e a o - c o w a fter rd , by p ci l d uble l th e ving

s e a a f or S D a t proce s . ! S e the m nu l the ilk ep r ment f or a mo re extended description o f velvet weaving . ) 64 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

W ays to D etermine Q uality o f Velv et There are a number o f w ays to tell a good piece o f

a o is a f f or an a a velvet , lth ugh it r ther di ﬁcult m teur to do o f f s . os ss o i n , The cl ene weave o the back s o e a o o f a tw o al s o f indic ti n the qu lity . The princip kind

a s are n L o s o s we ve the German a d the y n . B th kind

are a L i a . o s a s m de in Americ The y n we ve , which named f or a French city which is a great silk and vel i Th f s e a s . e a s o vet center , g ner lly the be t b ck the

tw o s oo s ff as m a s kind l k lightly di erent , y be een by examining them ; the Lyon s velvet is u sually lighter in n n a d a s o s o a o . weight , the b ck h w thr ugh the p m re O f tw o grade s Of Lyon s velvet the more expen sive has

the thicker pile and shows the back less . The thick ne ss O f the nap may be clearly seen by folding a piece o f the velvet to determine how much the back show s

o on h o thr ugh t e f ld . i Uncut velvet s sometime s u sed . The quality o f silk from which velvet i s m ade has

o u f much to d with the s e o the ﬁni shed a rticle .

P s o - o s fat on s and ure ilk fr m Silk w rm mulberry tree , i a s o o oo s s s . reeled in gre t length fr m the c c n , the be t The waste silk — th at m ad e from pierced cocoons from which the moth has escape d — and other in

f erior s are a s a s s and do kind , c lled ch ppe ! pun ) Silk ’ o c tton i not m ake so ﬁne an article . Alth ugh o s com monl s f or a s a a s s d to s a y u ed the b ck , m nuf cturer u e pe k VELVET AND OTHER FAB RIC HATS 65

oo o f as - a to o f a g d piece velvet linen b cked , indi cate superi o r quality .

Manufacture of Velv et Hats

o e a o s all t a s had to F rmerly, ev n in f ct rie , velve h t be made by hand ; the operators stretched and pinned the

nd net a a velvet onto wire a fr mes. At every pl ce

w as a s a had to where there dip in the h pe , the velvet

a s a a s o ex en be tacked by h nd . Thi m de the h t m re p sive and the eff ect w as not quite so smooth and

h t ine o a a o a o as t at . 0b a d t il red t d y by new meth d , by which the velvet is pre ssed onto buckram o r w illow

o a s s frames c ntaining glue . The he t in the die bring out o o s not o o the glue , which , h wever , d e c me thr ugh

a s a s o o as and the f bric . Thi m ke the velvet c nf rm e ily exactly to the sh ape o f the f rame i; The ﬁnish o f the

v is s aff s o not vel et lightly ected by thi meth d , but enough to damage it ;

and- made velvet h at s are Often made over wire

a s are s a o o a o s is fr me which u u lly b ught fr m f ct rie . It not a ﬁ u o f o to a a a and very dif c lt piece w rk m ke fr me , a o w ho is s s can do ny ne kilful with her ﬁnger it . S trong wire is u sed and with a p air o f pliers tiny thread wire is twi sted around each place whe re the l a s o ss to o a s o rger wire cr , h ld them in pl ce . Thi meth d is a ass s F or o a t ught in millinery cl e . ! further in f rm o h t a ti n in regard to m aking a fr me s see Chapter X V. 66 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

S ilk and S atin H ats S ilk hats are worn between season s when people are

o f s a o r O f a a ha tired tr w velvet . late ye rs s tin s been

o S a is o f o s is a . a a in f v r tin Silk , c ur e, but the we ve

s a one a and to s o so a u u lly thre d under ﬁve even ver , th t the extrem e gl ossiness o f the s moo th silk ﬁbers is pre

ff a i s . a a a s o erved In t et , where the we ve Simply ver one and under one ! simple o r tg bby weave) much o f oss i s o a s the gl s l o t . The m re tightly the Silk thre d are s s o o o o f twi ted , the tr nger theybec me but m re the s i himmer s l ost .

D urab ility o f S ilk Hats I f the public were more p articular about the wearing

a s o f a hat o a sa s o to ow qu litie , it w uld p y the le pe ple kn thoroughly all abo ut the durability o f the p opular kind s o f a cs a a s o a s rea f bri , but the ver ge cu t mer merely w nt so a s o a hat as she s o f or t he n ble ervice fr m , tire it , s aso s o she a s out o a a e n change bef re we r it . S the ppe l o f length o f service cannot be made to m any cus

r W h o s s o tome s . a a to a en it d e ppe l cu t mer , the price o f hat is a s o o f he a fairly ure indicati n t value .

W e ighted S ilk

' ‘ A stiff silk like a taff eta is apt to crack and w ear out soo a a so s o f sa a ow to ner th n ft ilk the me v lue , ing the

e o r oad f o S has w ighting l ing o the f rmer . ilk ﬁber the

o o f a so a me a s so o p wer b rbing cert in t k in luti n . The

68 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

a s o s a s o and o o f gingh m , p ngee , l ce , net , ilver cl th , cl th

- o . O s as so a s o a s are g ld uting type , the c lled p rt h t ,

s and s o s out imple in trimming ﬁni h , ften tiff in

and a o f s a a s as as line , m de uch m teri l cr h , duck ,

- o . a a s are ep nge , linen , rep , etc High gr de linen h t

a - o o s os s h nd bl cked in the fact rie . The m t expen ive

or o o a s are a n o oo s and linen c tt n h t m de i w rkr m , in

so a t» all E o s a a a a . a s me ye r h rdly ppe r e mbr idered h t

o o as o f ll w the f hi n . “ fin ma a o and ne al s a a s a teri l , f rm , ge r tyle , f bric h t v ry

r a o os o ta a o f eve y se son . They f rm a m t imp r nt p rt

i a s o f s o the mill nery tr de . A tudy textile w uld be help ful to anyone who wi she s to become well info rmed on

s a s S ee a s f or the the ubject Of f bric hat . ! manu l s S ilk and Cotton and Linen Department . )

New Material s

An illu strati on o f the new m ateri al s that are brought

o now an f or a s is Po a a a ut d then h t ntine , f bric m nu s a a f actured by the Dupont Powder Mill s. Thi m teri l

h r s a on one s s a o f so as a silk o satin urf ce ide , u u lly me

o o and on o s s s a . pretty c l r , the ther ide re emble le ther It is made from the waste obtained in the manufacture

o f o I ts a - oo a gunp wder . w ter pr f , light , ﬂexible qu l ities make it a de sirable m ateri al not o nly f or hats but

f o r o os s s as o o ther purp e , uch m t r thi s article and o ther novelty materials will win a pere VELVET AND OTHER FABRIC HATS 69 manent place on the market and have a steady demand

a e a s to s . ye rly, r m in be een

F ur Hats W hole hats and part s o f hats are made o f fur f or a a th winter wear . A few ppe r even in e extreme t" southern part o f the United S tates S everal kinds o f o C a fur were menti ned in h pter VI .

a s are s a os — ﬁttin and s a or se Fur h t u u lly cl e g m ll , el o o is o w a s o f the cr wn nly c vered ith fur , bec u e the

a and o f . S o s are a w rmth bulk the fur me fur he vy , _

re s W is but the lighter varieties a m o t u sed . hite fur popular f or dressy hats . Much m ore fur is u sed in

a is s o a s . a trimming th n in b dy h t Fur u ed in b nd ,

o ns s o r s are a . cr w , tuft , brim f ced with fur

Mi sce ll an eous F abric s

a s are a so a w o or a o f o H t l m de h le , in p rt vel ur , ’ mo sa n o a c o a e s s iré , ti cire , Ang r l th , duvetyne , h tt r plu h , “ o o s a c o s c o celo hane bulli n cl th , met lli cl th , jet l th , p

o a a s a c mbined with met llic thre d , p nne , French kid ,

aff a sa o and o s . f oo S o . o w l , t et , tin , ge rgette , ther me

s s as w oo and A o a o a or a the e , uch l ng r cl th , le ther , imit

f r a s o a are o s o . ti n le ther , p rt h t Chapter VIII

HAT T RIMMINGS F EATHERS

Varieties Ev ery season brings change and variety in the

S o as o s a trimming o f hats . me f hi n return fter a few

a s o s are a a is a ye r ; ther elimin ted perm nently . It n old pro verb that a fashi on returns a fter seven years; but like many proverbs thi s is merely a sugge sti on o f

nd s n t a too a the truth a mu t o be t ken liter lly . The standard trimmings f or hats are :

Feathers Flowers and fruit Ribbon s O rnaments

Other trimmings include

Lace Maline Chiff o n Fur Leather Beads Yar n

7 2 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

there w as danger in having the sweeping plume on the s right ide . I f the knight were on horseback and had an o an a sa his s o a enc unter with dver ry , w rd might c tch

his o wn o s and a s his o in plume , unh r e him , c u e ver

o thr w . Hence plumes and trimmings were wo rn on the left side . F o r centuries men dressed in much brighter colors

a do at s n s s a d o a . th n they pre ent , w re h t with trimming

ss as o w as s a a Their dre , we kn w it , t nd rdized in the

a a o f and all o a s e rly p rt the nineteenth century , rn ment

ass o to o o colq r E p ed ver w men . l ve , ven yet ‘ a o f our a ~hat s s are a o m ny le ding de igner men , lth ugh the number o f women in the impo rtant po siti ons in the

a i tr de s increasing .

Feathers

a s are s a f o r all s aso s as are Fe ther uit ble e n , they always attractive ; and Since they are o f animal ﬁber

n o s a ll s o f a a d de signed by nature t t nd a kind we ther,

s a use are they u sually wear well . The kind in gener l

os o f the os a o oose i eon th e trich , vulture , pe c ck , g g p g ,

a - o a a ow o w asan and duck , guine f wl , b rny rd f l , l, phe t ,

o p arr t .

a s o f a s o a in Until recently , tudy fe ther w uld h ve cluded m any wild bird s from thi s country and el se

a S a s law has o where , but United t te pr hibited the importation o f both wild and s ong birds and in ad HAT TRI MMINGS FEATHERS 7 3

o a s a s a o so diti n m ny t te , inﬂuenced l rgely by Audub n cieties and o ther o rganizati ons f or the conservati on Of

a o sa o f a a s wild life , h ve pr hibited the le cert in fe ther , so that in the future such plumes as those o f the osprey

n a a d the egret will be r rely seen .

O os o s and a s are to nly trich , d me tic , g me bird left

There is furni sh plumage f o r the millinery trade . v

' s os to be how ev er o raw s o upp ed , , en ugh t ck left in the

f s a country to supply the d em and s o ever l seaso ns .

ma o f o f a a s o a numadie The plu ge the bird p r di e , g ur h , ,

o and r is s a a her n , eg et u ed princip lly in the igrette fo rm .

Treatment of Feathers F eathers are put through various proce sses before

are a f or a o r s they re dy br nching pa ting . In the ﬁnal

o s are o to a as s om f rm they kn wn the tr de plume , p

o s a s as s s a s a s to cl p n , igrette , bre t , wing , p d , b nd ! encir e

o or to o th n a l the cr wn utline e brim ) a d quill s . A t b e

o ow s s o a k s o f a s are a u f ll , h wing wh t ind fe ther m de p into each o f the vari ous forms o f branching o r past in g .

O strich Feath ers

os is now f or o r a The trich , which bred c mme ci l pur

os s on a a s w as o a a o f p e l rge f rm , f rmerly n tive the

’ ‘ ‘ “ deserts o f a I t is a a A frica and Ar bia . very l rge bird ; 74 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

e t t e s r a g e r A a B

Spani sh Coq

h male . ura a n the e ma e I m e r a ! t e e in uma e ) , t e Go h ; pl i , f l ; p i l wi h y pl g t er s The ar e r re ast e at e r s o f the o o se ar e te 1 S o ft s ide fea h . l g b f h g ch nically call ed Nag o ire . an adult m ale weigh s 3 00 pound s and can l ook over a i a a a t . a s fence 9 fee high The fem le gr y , the m le bl ck with wings and tail bordered in white . Th e ostrich has the reputation o f being a very stupid s to s a i s W h its bird , which think e c pe t y hiding a s e s to a s head only . The f ct e m be th t the bird , cent

76 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

Th e varieties o f feather s Obtained from the o stri ch are as foll ows :

oss — a rs se f or as Fl under the wing fe the , u d bo ,

ff s s a o o s and a mu , trimming , f ncy p mp n , he d

ss dre .

oo a a s to B ze t il fe ther , used ﬁll in . ’

B x — f r i a a s s o s . y wing fe ther , u ed t p

Lo s a a s a and ng ! ﬁr t gr de ) wing fe ther , bl ck

o r pure white from the male . Three four raw feathers are put together to make an o strich

s s a s a o plume , the tem being c refully h ved d wn

so a ma not too th t they y be thick .

a s o f o s re s Chi ck s . The fe ther y ung bird a u ed

f or io a s an s o f a a s imitat n igrette d bird p r di e .

is n a a s The ﬂue bur ed aw y by chemic l . S pade body feather before it becomes fully de l i v e o ed to s not e out. p . The p ﬁll d

M n a and ale a d female feathers . Bl ck pure white

a r o a a s fe ther s a e fr m the m le bird . Fe ther

o a ar a o r fr m the fem le e gr y mixed .

ac a a or . Ble hed fe ther , re dy f dyeing

F orms of O strich Fe ath ers

a s are a all i nes O strich fe ther m de up princip y mpg n ,

s s a a s o o s and a s . ) , b nd tip ! m ll plume fe ther p mp n , _

The s are s a tw o or e - t a is o f plume u u lly thr e ply , h t , HAT TRIMMINGS FEATHERS 7 7

a s W t - ﬁll tw o or three fe ther . hen hree ply the inner

f o s ing is comp osed o sh rter length . A plume may be curled at di fferent time s to give ’ ’ m

’ ' ‘ the éff éét f fli ff erent size s according to the demand s o f as o c a a a nar f hi n . A tight url will n tur lly give ~ c m ” h oa o r The rower appearance t an a br d full curl .

' lerigth o f a plume is' frequently deceptive as the head

ma o to a a or ss . y be curled ver , gre ter le extent

W illow plumes were very popular a few years ag o . Each tiny feathery ﬁber is lengthened by having several

t s o f sa o to a o s leng h the me kind kn tted it , tedi u , ﬁne ,

a o ss s is a o s h nd pr ce . The re ult plume with l ng , weep

s ing feather . Plumes are measured from th here the ﬂue “ s to h i h 18 beg in T e t p Of t e head . deter

its o a at a o a o I n O s c t t l width p int b ut the center . tri h feathers a re frequently treated with acid and glycerin to a t a a a to give much hinner ppe r nce the ﬂue . W hen so treated they are generally u sed in aigrette form o r a a i n br nched in some novel w y. Thi s s called bur t o strich .

D yeing O strich Fe athe rs

o oris to the o ma o If the c l be light , dye liqu r y be c ld ,

a a s o a s and but d rker Sh de require c ld w ter ﬁr t , then Slow heating until the water is very hot — though 78 MI LLINERY DEPARTMENT

Th r end f o . e and o o never b iling quill butt , , the

ea are s and a and n s be f ther dyed ﬁr t , l ter the tip ﬁ e , cau se the fo rmer parts may take twenty o r thirty

s to a so o o as and s minute b rb the c l r , where the tip ﬂue

a o s s o s not will t ke the dye in tw minute . I f the tem d e

a o o o o o has to a t ke the c l r th r ughly en ugh , it be p inted

s a o o s a a a fterward . After th r ugh rin ing in w rm w ter the feather s are partly dried by so ft rubbing with a

o a on a and o o cl th , then l id p per c vered with p wdered

s s a is n a and a dry tarch . The t rch ge tly be ten Sh ken out and o ss a s a is , the pr ce repe ted until the t rch fully

’ ff o s a ast removed and the ﬂue s ﬂu ed ut. If t rch p e

o s on a ma or too f rm the fe ther it y ruin it , i f much dry starch remain s on the ﬁne s the feather may look woo lly

to redam ened and s a o a a and have be p t rched ver g in .

W et s a a o ss o o ss o a t rching , pr ce empl yed by pr fe i n l

s o s s s a a dyer , c n i t in rubbing the fe ther in milky mix

o f o s a and a not a as dr ture c ld t rch w ter ! p te) , then y

ing by running it between fold s o f cheese- cl oth through

a and a a v arm oo or s . wringer , pl cing it in E r m unlight W hen tho roughly dry the starch is beaten O tit gently

n a o the edge Of table .

The secret s o f the black dyeing o f feathers are kept

oo s o ss o oo by g d dyer ; but the pr ce with l g w d dye ,

ix s o s is s a s a o s a . which the be t , t ke b ut d y The meth d

80 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT ostrich chick and is principally used in aigrette effects a has a a and h fter it been tre ted with cid glycerin . T e l onger ﬁber vulture plumage is frequently u sed to imi a numa i t te d e .

P eac ock and P he asant

Peacocks are rai sed in Europe and are native to

a C o Ma a o a and . o w as Indi , eyl n , l y F rmerly the pe c ck

a is now s f or a or as an o a e ten but u ed the plum ge , rn

oc a a mental bird . In ancient Greece the peac k w s s cred to o ss o and a w as s C s a the g dde Jun , l ter u ed in hri ti n

a art as a s o o f s o Byz ntine ymb l the re urrecti n .

The long - tailed pheasant has been introduced into

' ' ' ni e tates f r m si an E o Th U t d S o a d . e lurn; the A ur pe h p

‘ ag e o f the m ale bird longer tail

m d ' ’ ' feathers o f the peacock aﬁd phéasant are frequently

s in a a s a o r so s u ed their n tur l t te , metime burnt with acid . They may be used as separate feathers to encircle

o or to o o r ma a at the cr wn utline the brim , y be pl ced

h t are s some Odd angle on the a . They frequently u ed

a in aigrette fo rm a fter they h ave been burned with cid . The breast feathers o f these bird s make ex cellent pads o r as a o s o is a a bre ts. The pe c ck in thi f rm inv ri bly

s its s a as asa is f re u ed in undyed t te , where the phe nt quently dyed .

L asa l s s a o ar The ady Amherst phe nt peci lly p pul . HAT TRIMMINGS FEATHERS 8 1

W D c P a o and G ea - ow ild u k , rr t , uin f l

a o f a o arrokeet a The plum ge the wild duck , p rr t , p ! s a a o and o l a o f uihea m ll prr t ) , the m ttled p um ge the g fowl are generally u sed in their natural undyed state

the o Of s a s and as s as es in f rm wing , p d , bre t , th e

f r S o s feathers are excellent o pasting . metime they are u sed alone but not infrequently they are combined

o o r o a s o f a so o o s with pige n f wl fe ther lid c l r , thu

o i an a a o o o as . o o r f rm ng ttr ctive c l r c ntr t The p inter ,

o a s o f s s are s to s l ng wing fe ther , the e bird u ed upple

s ment their small feathers in making wing .

Pigeon The pigeo n is found in almost all part s o f the

’ n r a o f éédé The world! a d there a e m ny d me stic B . ﬁne

as a s o f o a o as M t fe ther the pige n , technic lly kn wn “ o are s f or a n s o f a s as s r nd , u ed m king the ﬁ e t p d , bre t ,

d o o o an as a s. p ted b nd They , t gether with pige n p inter

a s are a so s f o r a o s s fe ther , l u ed m king the c tlier wing

s a n in m ll a d medium Sizes .

Fow l

W o o f all kindslcontribute a to the cro ild f wl l rgely p , , ’ ’ ” o f eahe s: Do s o n oos f t r me tic f wl , i cluding g e , duck ,

and a ar are turkey , b rny d chicken , very much

used in European countrie s and now al so in America . S uch fowl are rai sed almost as much f or their feather 8 2 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

a as f or a a s is a a v lue their me t v lue . Thi p rticul rly true o f the pure white varieties which can be easily and a f dyed tre ted . The feathers o such birds are

a and a o all so s o f ai burnt with cid , dyed , m de int rt

f not ar grette e fects . I f burnt they e used in making

" ‘ s o o s a s as s and bahdST T heir Ton wing , p mp n , p d , bre t , g

a s a o to s f or pointer wing fe ther , in dditi n being u eful ﬁniShin a win s are a so f or g m de g , l excellent Single quill s .

— Spaﬁ sh Co q and Hackl e

sa a s o s a s The ddle fe ther , the l ng lender fe ther which droop from each side o f the saddle o f the barny ard r k o a e o o o as a a s . W c ck , c mm nly kn wn h c le fe ther hen dyed vari ous Shades they have an attractive brilli ancy and are o a f or as s and a s, empl yed princip lly bre t ” p d though sometimes they are u sed to give ﬁh ish to wings o a and in pompon eff ects . The dark br nze green t il feathers o f the barnyard cocks o f certain breed s are

' valuable f or po o s and sweeping aigrette effects . _ _ mp n These are particularly d urable since they are in vari ably branched with wires and not pasted in the

I S a s a a o f process o f manufacture . 5 941 h ded t il , “

s o is a so s o . feather . C q l pelled c que S ome o f the bird s o f which importation is now f or o s a o os bidden are still u sed . A few w rd b ut the m t

o impo rtant o f them foll w .

8 4 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

Bird of P aradi se

In 1 52 1 the bird o f paradi se w as introduced into

E o o New a and a a s a ur pe fr m Guine dj cent i l nds . It received its name becau se it w as supposed never to

a o a to s light up n the e rth , but live in the unlight in so ac o s a so f o r me mir ul u m nner . The rea n thi s fancy w as that the feet had been remo ved from the ﬁrst skin s t E sent o urope . The plumage o f the male is o f great beauty and o f an o dd s a tw o a o a s h pe , the delic te l ng fe ther ex tending from under the wings f ar beyond the ta il h ave a tufted feathery tip like a que stion mark at the

end .

S o s a a s are i o o me bird Of p r di e green n c l r , while others are o f velvety red with plumes o f purple tipped

i a s h - a ar w th green . N tive kill them wit blunt he ded

o s s ar row s during the courting seas n . The kin e cured by smoking and sent to market .

O ther W ild Birds Us e d f or H at Trimming

o a is a s s o f o o The g ur h pecie pige n , living up n the

- o s ground and known as the crown pigeon . It c me

f N o r Pa a o the s a s o ew a . fr m i l nd Guine pu The emu ,

- a o s o s o s a a . a l rge trich like bird , c me fr m Au tr li

S o s are a o f o a s f or t rk , which kind her n , h ve been u ed

a a so The a a o s o s a . plum ge l . m r b u t rk live in Indi Chapter I x

ER HAT TRI MMI NGS FI. OW S

S ources of Artifi cial Flow ers Until recent years almost al l fine flower s were made a oa chicfl I n a The al a s the s br d , F r nce . It i n were fir t _ y o E o to I n art o f o a n pe ple in ur pe excel the fl wer m ki g , and later the F rench became very profici ent . Ger many and Austri a made a great many o f the l ower

o s priced ne .

os all s a o s s as o - - o s Alm t m ll ﬂ wer , uch f rget me n t , ’ ’ ' helI OfrO e b as a s and s a a I n p , ver en , lil c , wi teri were m de r e Europe until the w a . Since then they have b en well

a S ta s f or ost ar and m de in the United te , the m p t in

P L n o o a ous a . a o a S t. a d C b ut New Y rk , hil delphi i hic g

o s o v hav o n ad h e a Vi let , h we er , e l ng bee m e er by It l

s n ﬁne o s are a o a . o s a o i n R se d ther ﬂ wer m de here al s .

In fo rmer years much artificial fl ower - making w as performed by sweat - shop l abo r in pl ace s which were o nsa a E s a s oo s a s ften u nit ry . In ngli h tr de ch l fifty ye r ag o children were taught the cra ft and allowed to work as soOn as they were able to move their fingers accu i ratel at a a e o f t . s a o y, even the e rly g hree It relief t 3 5 86 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

know that today mo st o f the w o rk has been taken over

a o s i a to s s sa a co n by f ct rie . It s h rd upervi e the nit ry

ditions o is o o s under which w rk d ne in h me .

Fl ow er Mat eri al s

The materi al s generally used in ﬂower - making are

s sa and s mu lin , Silk , tin , velvet , velveteen ; but tin el

o o a o s a c e cl th , ribb n , chenille , le ther , cellul id , tr w , r pe ,

and a s are a so o c as o a se . felt, fe ther l c i n lly en The

a a o i o f o s are a o f a mus gre t m j r ty ﬂ wer m de thin , ﬁne

lin such as bati ste o r nainsook .

S tiff ening and Cutting O ut

The zwhite muslin is ﬁrst stretched on a frame and bru shed w ith a mixture o f star ch and gel atin to sti ffen f it and to give the proper ﬁni sh . The patterns o the

re t out r to s a ﬂowers a hen cut . I f they a e be peci lty

o s are ut out a s o f a o ﬂ wer , they c by me n die p unded by

a a a a but ss s o s h nd with he vy m llet , the le expen ive ne

r u The a s o f s f a e stamped o t by machine . l yer ti fened clo th are pl aced o ne abo ve another and fro m hal f a

- m t on dozen to seventy two petal s ay be cut a e time .

Dye ing

They are then s eparated and dyed in bowl s accord

to o o a c ac o i s co s ing a c l r ch rt whi h , in the better f t r e , me

P a is o b a s from ari s . The Sh ding d ne y dipping bru h

88 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

w ax m and u s i Po as ming, g , d t ng wdered g l s gives a f fOsted f a e fect . Fine c mbric is u sed to a great extent

f o r a s and s o s t S pet l , Silk in expen ive ﬂ wer , wi h ome

s a a a to s and s a time g uzy net b cking give trength h pe .

aff a and are s f or a s T et velvet much u ed le ve . The ﬂ owers made in thi s c ountry are not yet

al to s o s as are not n equ the be t French ﬂ wer , we willi g

to ssa to do a s o give the time nece ry rti tic w rk . In France the wo rkman is an arti st who imitates nature as a as a a c re fully if he were p inting picture . The l ast touches are put on with the living model before

o r o ﬂ - him fr m a perfect copy . A ow er maker is

a t o on n s a f o i. os o e o e . a u u lly kept w rk kind ﬂ wer , , r e

a a a s a s o s s and a o - a o s m ker lw y m ke r e vi let m ker vi let .

a a e o o a o s who They n tur lly b c me very expert , but per t r a re co nstantly changing their work cannot produce s s s uch re ult .

‘ H o w Fl ow e rs Com e tOth e Millin e r There are a number Of fo rm s in which ﬂ owers c ome

to f or use . are s or the milliner They put up ingly , in

c s s a s s s o r o s o f one to b e bun he , pr y , clu ter , gr up kind opened and used as desired by the trimmer ; or ﬂowers and foli age which blend as to kind and col or are com bined a s o s or c s s s o in wre th , b uquet , lu ter , thu f rming a trimming ready to be applied without further blend f h ing or combining on the part o t e milliner . HA T TRIMMINGS FLOWERS 89

The kinds o f ﬂo wers general classed

Roses Field flowers Appliqué flowers Violets S ma ll fl owers Odd fl owers Rare flower s Natural flowers Foliage Fruits

s RQECERQIEC small June size . " They are cru shed f o r appliqué trimming With o r W i th out o a h or o o a o s f o r f li g e , wit with ut c mbin ti n , with

- - o s o s s or s a s a o s . get me n t , c w lip , imil r m ll ﬂ wer Amer

a a LaF rance o a a or ot ic n Be uty , , Ner n , c bb ge , her

’ o or ﬂat s a e s o a or o o r r und h p with either f li g e ribb n , ar s f or f f s o e s o so . b th , u ed trimming fter e fect They are sometimes combined with other ﬂowers in wreath s ~ o r s a s os r s d a t nding clu ters . June r es a e u e princip lly ’ ’ f or children s o r misse s hats or f or mixing in tight bou quets .

Fi eld Flow ers

Po s s a s es s and a s s ppie , bluet , d i i , buttercup , p n ie 90 MILLINER Y DEPARTMENT

a a as to La s a s s n v ry gre tly Size . rge ingle d i ie a d pop ar s f or a s i ow pies e frequently u ed ppliqué . F eld ﬂ er s are a s ow o a o f re gener lly u ed , h ever , in c mbin ti n ,

o a s a and s quently with f li ge . The m ll medium Size ’ ’ are a os a a s s f o r ss s s and lm t lw y u ed mi e , children , s o t a s a o a s a s s are s p r h t ; lth ugh the d inty , m ll clu ter u ed on the dressier styles as well .

Applique F low ers

D a as as s a as a e as chr santhe hli , ter , c meli , g rd ni , y

s and o s are s a os a o a mum , p ppie u ed lm t lt gether in p li u p q é.

Vio l ets

Pa a oo an d R ss a o s are rm , w d , u i n vi let frequently

o o s s o r o o s and are s c mbined with r e ther ﬂ wer , u ed

a s m s o f all principally on early Spring h t . Trim ing

’ o s are s o to a o s a s vi let u ually c nﬁned m tr n h t , except o as ona o o f a a o o cc i lly in utlining the edge l rge , dr ping brim .

S mall Fl ow ers

o - - o s o o s e as o s s F rget me n t , heli tr pe , verb n , c w lip , d os s s a a s . an primr e , lilie Of the v lley , hy cinth , etc , blossom s are generally u sed in combinati on with other

o r s as as s o f or a ﬂ we , either the b i trimming in br nch ing.

92 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

a o f o a Or o s or m de f li ge , the cr wn edge the brims are o o a E a s are a so ma e o f utlined with f li ge . ntire h t l d ﬂowers which are sewed ﬂ at to the frames and relieved with a little satin or velvet ribbon or an aigrette!

F ru its

S a s o f s s as a s s ever l kind fruit , uch gr pe , cherrie ,

s a a s a s and o a s are s i m ll pple , pe che , r nge , u ed in tr m s ming . I Chapter X

R MM S — R O S DS AND HAT T I ING IBB N , BAN , O RNAMENTS

S ilk Ribbo ns

R o s are s a ad o f and so a ibb n u u lly m e Silk , few

“ words abo ut that material and the compari son o f

a s o o F or a o a s a o f we ve f ll w . ! m re exh u tive tre tment “ ” s e see a on R o s the the ubj ct , the ch pter ibb n in m f D a anual or the S ilk ep rtment .

S is s o s os a as and ilk the tr nge t , m t be utiful , el tic , durable o f all the important textile ﬁbers used f o r the mahufaCture o f cl oth T he sto ry o f the cultivation

f l - o is a a to ll f I S o n o the si k w rm f mili r a o us . It fed

r a s f or a o s s a mulber y le ve b ut ﬁve week , then it spin cocoon from which a gauzy thread averaging

I n l o o s no feet ength can be unw und . The m th mu t t be allowed to e scape and so he i s killed by heat before ﬂ the time has arrived at which he is due to emerge

o h h o oo . Hot a so s e fr m the c c n w ter ften _ _t _ gum wit

- o en the o oo a d which the Silk w rm cem ted c c n , in e gumming process employed by the m anufacturer 93 94 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

s can asi o o Then the ilk e ly be unw und . The uter fuzzy

a n .

a a s of s S o s o oo s are che per gr de ilk . metime the c c n pierced by e scaping m oth s and these too m ake inferio r

U o as dis silk . nder the ch apter on silk in b dy h at s w cu ssed the questi on o f the l oading o r w eighting o f

s and s a a to a a s ilk , the re ulting d m ge the we ring qu litie f o the silk .

W eav es

The simple o r tabby weave f ound in silks such - as

af a is s s o f all a s and w ea s v t fet the imple t we ve , it r ery

T - o s re a s w a . w o o a well t ne ribb n m de in thi y, but the

s or a a s are a f o o om leng thwi e , w rp , thre d di ferent c l r fr

ss s o the cro wi e ne s .

S a o o f a a a is to a tin ribb n , i f che p gr de , h likely c tch

and o f o r a a o f oss s o r r ughen , l rge number the cr wi e ﬁlling threads are on the surface o f the cl oth to give

a s gre ter lu ter .

R o s a f I n a s c as ibb n with ribbed e fect the we ve , u h

ai or os a s a a ot o or oo a f lle gr gr in , u u lly h ve c t n w l y rn in the concealed bars which g o 1nto the ﬁlling of the

o . wa a a s ribb n They e r well , except in the che per gr de , in which they tend to wear out al ong the bars as the silk w arp threads are not thick and strong enough to

stand the rubbing along the heavy ﬁlling .

96 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

. s a sa o s are cired and ture U u lly tin ribb n , so ft faille " a so a s s P . o s l t ke the ﬁni h quite well li hed , metallic

o s are s f a cired o s ribb n ti fer th n ribb n , but give the

s f ame ef ect . Moiréhas a w atered effect produced by pressing ta f

a a or os a o s s a fet , f ille , gr gr in ribb n between t mped roll

rs af e . T feta ribbon is not apt to wear so well as the

o s ss is o f oo a ther unle it g d qu lity with little weig hting .

W idths of Ribbo ns P W idth s in millinery ribbon vary from number one

“ baby ribbon to sash ribbon fourteen inches w i Dif f erent type s o f ribbon are u sed f or differ es o f

a s and s o f s aso a so s h t , the tyle the e n l determine the

s width o f ribbon to be u ed .

a o d s are s a a s o N rr w wi th u ed princip lly in b nd , c ck

bo — o s a s and s s a s w . s are de , kn t , pl iting , hirring The e ’ ’ s a f or s and ss s a s o u ed m inly children mi e h t , th ugh

narrow bow - knot s are frequently employed as a ﬁni sh in to elaborate ﬂ ower o r feather trimmed hat s. Not frequently narrow ribbons o f velvet o r other materi al

o f a a h are shirred ﬁat around the brim l rge dre ss at.

W ide ribb on s are o ften u sed in scarf . effect around

n o f s ort a s the crown and al so p artly o the brim p h t . W ide ribbo ns are u sed in bow eff ect on a fternoon and evening hats in combination with ﬂowers o r other so ft

t s o s ma oo s or oa rimming . The b w ybe in high l p br d RIB BONS , BANDS , AND ORNAMENTS 97 .

and ﬂ at as s o f the hat and s s o f sea , the line the tyle the

F b o o s s f on s s . e a a o s ugge t r quently r d ribb n , e peci lly satin or vel v et are drawn so ftly around the crown o f a

hat and n t o o a picture , the hr ugh the brim , f rming b ck

s a s or b i s a oo . tre mer , e ng ﬁni hed in l p

R o s are s s oo at o r ibb n either ﬁni hed m th the edge ,

o or a o . Co s o with a heavy c rd , with pic t edge rd ften

serve as bands .

B ands O riginally band s were u sed solely in making toques f a or ff and turbans o ver a foundation o m line chi on .

Mo o b a s a s a o re recently , h wever, nd h ve been u ed r und the crown s o f sailo r hats and others o f vari o u s sh apes . Thi s is especially true o f the narrow conventional

an s or o f a s a o f o s o ta b d , b nd m de w r ted in bright rien l

o a o s o f o o c mbin ti n c l r .

a s are a o f a o s n f ounda B nd m de v ri u material s . O o s of or some o h a a a a s ti n net t er delic te m teri l , ppliqué are a e o f s s s a or b o d m d equin , chenille, tr w , em r i ery

“ in 1 n s e s a o s or a de5 . S o ilk , eith r tr ig ht r w m g “ me m s tw o or o e o f se materials are combinedjin ti e m r the _ - m ~ - a band n and§ afe so a f a a . al m de o met llic m ateri l

" ' ” either emb roidered or comp osed of solid pieces 61

a o o S o a s are a o f met l j ined t gether . me b nd m de

s or s a s s o o r white , jet , teel , iride cent be d trung t gether

o a s ! in s o a o s embr idered in de ig n the u ual f und ti n . a a s ar e s a 1n o s o are s a H l f b nd imil r c n tructi n, but u u lly 98 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT o f less conventi onal design and are u sed as appliqued

s ar a n a s . m oti fs . Flower e ppliqued o b nd

O rname nts

s o as o a s com r1se s Trimming kn wn rn ment p buckle ,

‘ s s a o o s s and o s o f s ne lide , c b ch n , pin , m ti f j et , teel , rhi s o s o - o f — a a s so a a a s t ne , m ther pe rl , be d , ut che br id , t pe

s o a o r o and try , gilt , ilver , xidized met l , c ppe , iv ry ,

s a Ma f a o s cry t l . ny o p rticularly th e ,

' ' ' - ' made o f sequins o r scale jet o r j et beadsj imitate

a s s s and o o s r o e . a e a le ve , r e , ther bj ct They ppl iqued on ma o r . net , line , velvet

‘ ‘ Among the most nov el o rnaments m ay be mentio ned emblem s and objects typical o f certain c ountries o r

A hi sto rical facts and period s. Even human ﬁgure s a re reproduced in tapestf y?nd w ool o r s ilk embro idery to

a e on s o o o f o be ppliqu d p rt hats . S me the m re deli cate o rnam ent s are u sed as a ﬁni sh at the base o f the

a on a a s O am s fe ther fe ther trimmed h t . rn ent when

s o s are o a on a o a s s u ed with ribb n p pul r t il red h t . Q uill

f l hane are s i C s o t n . o ce op u ed . opper f en seen o bow s

Embr oidery and P ainting

R a - o a a nd s ecently h nd embr idery; p inting, tenciling

' s o ss a T he have been u ed m re o r le in trimming h t s .

o a a 18 s o ss o o a or a embr idery m teri l ilk ﬂ , w l , y rn , met llic

s a P a s os- s and o s. o o thre d lk d t , cr titching , ther de

Chapter XI

CHOOS ING A BECO MING HAT

I mport an ce o f the Choice The chief requi site o f a hat is th at it shall be b ecom

S o o as to s a b ecom ing . me pe ple ﬁnd it very e y elect

s f or on Man eo ing hat ; other hunt e in vain . y p ple do not a hat os s to o o we r the m t uited their c l ring , their f n s m o s o r s a o a s a d a . U cl the , the h pe their he d fe ture

' le ss speci al attenti o n has been given to the study o f

s s s m a not o e the e thing the di turbing element y be n tic d ,

o ff as a o is n as even th ugh the e ect wh le u ple ing .

Goo d Tast e It is current opini on th at good taste o r a sense

o f a is o o s and a s is o and wh t bec ming in cl the h t inb rn , that those w ho l ack thi s desirable facultyhave no alter n ative but to do the best they can and to depend on the

o f o P a s o o f vari able advice thers . erh p the maj rity

o o to the s o ass is o m o pe ple bel ng ec nd cl , but it c f rting ’ to know that it is possible to cultivate one s perception

o f a o and o o s ob serv atfp n and be uty in f rm c l r by tudy , , the knowledge o f a few simple rules that g enerally roo CHOOSING A B ECOMIN G HAT

oo oo as hold g d . G d t te thus becomes an acquired

trait.

The Cau se of Bad Taste W see a o us all our es m diocre or oor hen we b ut liv e q l p 3 ' ' ' ’ as a a a a u li trééh ld fur i t te r ther th n be uty in rchitect re , o b f c

nishin s a a s and a s is s a o g w llp per , c rpet , it m ll w nder that w o ften choose wrongly when it comes to our

o s W o f o s m s s and f r cl the . e think the cl the the elve o get that they should chieﬂy be a background f o r our so s Do a f o r s a e a a per n . we re lize , in t nc , th t mere change in the line o f a coll ar will change the whole ? appearance o f a face It would be fascinating to take up the questi ons o f

and o o t a to o os line c l r wi h reg rd the wh le c tume , but

in thi s and, the next few chapters only the lines o f the hea d and face are studi ed as these are the impo rtant ha f o s oos a t. o a as o h s ne in ch ing H wever , m tery t e e

s na one to a s r principle will e ble c rry the tudy fu ther , and a s t ss o e o perh p o dre m re b c mingly .

The D uty of W omen to b e B eautiful It is the duty o f every woman to attire hersel f as charm1n l as oss f or as o f s g y p ible , the ple ure her friend and all who come in contact with her as well a s to aid

a a an a is a no t to her dv ncement in y c lling . It h rd be s - o s o s s a s is a elf c n ci u when un uit bly dre sed . It emb r 1 02 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT rassing to feel either that clothes are not becoming or that the costume selec ted is inappropriate f or the occa s o i n . i o ce of a H at in a Cos e mp rtan , tum Onej arring note in a costume will spoil the effect o f

d i he hat o an e n s a o s t . the wh le , fr que tly thi j rring n te By paying a high price one can u sually secure a be

o hat are a o who do not w s c ming , but there m ny pe ple i h to pay a high price and yet want a sati s facto ry artic le . It take s mo re skill to make a goo d choice in an inex pensive hat becau se the designers and the milliners w ho make such hats are not high - class w orkers and the materi al s from which the hats are made are not o f the ﬁrst quality .

Ma a o ss a s cus teri l s c unt le in milliner y th n tyle . A ’ tomer is apt to care less about the h at s wearing qu ali

s a o its s an ss s are tie than b ut tyle d becomingne . The e

c s s no a she the hief requi ite in her mind , m tter whether a s it or not o os om do a dmit , th ugh m t w en dmit it quite freely .

’ The S al e sw om an s P art in S el e cting a H at The average salesperson know s thi s and her chief

a s she s a s o s o are exclam tion as trie h t up n her cu t mer , ” How a s s ou How a oo s o n well th t uit y , pretty th t l k ” R a s o f s so ou s is o . y , Thi bec ming em rk thi rt ,

1 04 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

and o s a o b erv ti n s . O ne sale sgirl w as sent by her store in the Middle W est to study costume designing in New Yo rk becau se she took such an intere st in advi sing cus m r to e s as to c ol o r s and ways o f making the silk piece good s she sold that the store wi shed to make her a s s a st ervice peci li .

O b serv atio n and S tudy of Dr ess

The woman who wi shes to acquire excellent taste

s o s a o f all she s s s c a a s mu t be b erv nt ee , e pe i lly in m tter

o f h - ss . W s e s s a ass b she ask dre hen ee p er y, might hersel f I s that the m ost becoming costume that ? w oman could wear Co uld I sugge st any little im ? provement I s the c ol or o f her hat the best f o r her

o o e s a and os ? W a o f c mplexi n , ye , h ir , c tume h t kind ? hat would I choose f o r her At ﬁrst your critici sm s will be m ostly de structive and you may think that nine people o ut o f ten are

oo ss but as ou s o o p rly dre ed , y tudy the pr blem y ur critici sm s will grow more con structive and you will think o f changes f or the better in the things you oh

A f s a ou o s r . s ou o o e ve y think y ur friend , h ve y n ticed

a so o f e are o obs a a o s th t me th m m re erv nt th n ther , that m aybe one o f the m get s mo re pleasure than others out o f a o a s o o o r a a on av e wind w , h pping t ur , w lk the ? nue and that her quick eyes mi ss nothing o f interest I t is ju st thi s quality o f quick observati on and alertness CHOOSIN G A B ECOMIN G HAT 1 05 that sh ould be cultivated in studying the scientiﬁc prin~

i l o ss c p es o f bec ming dre .

S tyl e in Millinery

S is an o a m a tyle imp rt nt ele ent in millinery , but th t

no o o f hat ar alone should t decide the ch ice a . The

ument f o r s o a oo one o not to g tyle , th ugh g d , ught be

a o r o one f o r are a s s m de the chief nly , there m ny tyli h hats in every di splay and it is quite possible to choose one a is o as as s s th t bec ming well tyli h , It o ften prejudices a woman when a saleswoman ” s a s a hat a s is s s di pl y with the rem rk , Thi very tyli h , ” or s i s sa sw o a s u Thi s very dres y . The le m n ho ld

e aso s f or sta or she ss s an o or giv re n her tement, mi e pp tunity and fail s to impre ss the customer with her

o and oo kn wledge g d judgment .

“ W omen are intere sted to know wh at is new and in

s s and os o f a s o a o the be t tyle , m t them gle n thi inf rm ti n from their ob servati on s in the store s and from the as sertions o f salespeople rather than from fashi on maga

s and D o no a a c s a o im zine papers . t re l rti le m ke m re ? pre ssi o n on you than pictures o f them

Change in S tyl e s

O n the o a s s a a d ther h nd , tyle ch nge very r pi ly in the

M D a and o sa s o a illinery ep rtment , theref re the le w m n should be careful not to be too much inﬂuenced by 1 06 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

i is s o f what s new . It ea y t become tired o h ats th at have been in the department f o r some time and co nse “ quently to neglect them and to push only the very ’ a s s o a o m o f l te t . Thi c mplic tes the manager s pr ble s o - o a s l w m ving merch ndi e . The salesperson with natural o r cultivated goo d

as o s not a o s a a s she is o t te d e f ll int thi h bit , bec u e m re interested in what is beauti ful than in what is merely

is to see and o s new s and new . It well b erve the thing to a o o s e a o f so decide b ut them , c n id ring wh t type per n o to a s hat o r a a s a s ught we r thi th t , perh p h ving uch a a as a one can s is ccur te t te th t think , Thi the very f ! hat or s o Mrs . S . O ne a my cu t mer , might then c ll

Mr n a h o S . o o o s s . a e e up b ut it , pr vided knew th t w uld

a o and a a sa as a s like the ttenti n , thereby m ke le well

s s o o f a sa s is render a ervice . Thi meth d m king le practiced f ar mo re in other departments than in the

Millinery Department .

Ex treme and Co nse rv ativ e S tyl es Another considerati on in regard to style is the purse

f s o sh s o a o f o the cu t mer . If e intend t h ave number

a s she . can a f o to as one a is a h t , f rd purch e th t r ther ex

s s h a s a s treme in tyle bec au e s e will h ve everal ch nge .

To s s a hat s a s be very tyli h , mu t be r ther di tinctive , but one quickly tire s o f something th at is rather extreme

ss on h s s to a to unle e as omething el e ch nge .

1 08 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

s f or s a oo o r a or f or a u ed treet , ftern n , evening we r , o a o o f s c mbin ti n the e .

S uiting th e A g e of a Cu s tomer Another important con siderati o n in choosing a suit a hat f or a s o is a a a e a ble cu t mer her pp rent g . H ve you sometimes seen young girl s wearing hats far too old f o r o r an o o a a a ost r idicu them , lder w m n m de lm

o s one too o o s f o r one a to l u by friv l u her , th t tended a ccentuate her ag e by contrast with its o wn youthful ? ’ ness o f appearance S uiting a hat to a person s years

s a o o f o o o f and o f o require kn wledge c l r , line f rm , which we sh all di scu ss l ater ; with such knowledge any one can decide whether or not a hat is suitable to the a e o f a g the we rer .

A ctiv ely B e coming H ats

O ne - ss o a o is a a s a very well dre ed w m n , wh m it lw y

as to oo at sa one da an ple ure l k , id y I never buy y

s activ el be thing becau se it is becoming . It mu t be y

o s oo a o . c ming . I mu t l k better in it th n with ut it It ” a a an o f o a must dd to my appe rance . Are y y ur rti cles o f cl o thing o f thi s nature that they make you seem

oo a ou are a is s o even better l king th n y , th t , ubdue y ur ? indiff erent point s and bring out the good ones It is a good test question to ask yourself when you are trying hats upo n yo ursel f or upon anyone else I s ” this activ ely becoming ? C HOOSING A BECOMING HAT 1 09

N0 tw o a s are a an o a tw o so f ce like , y m re th n per n h i i i s E o a a s a at a s s e . al t e . very w m n w nt th t di tinctiv

r o s a a a o f It may occasi on M s . J ne gre t de l pique if Mrs nr has hat she ﬁnd s that her neighbor . He y a

o M D a s exactly like hers . S the illinery ep rtment put

a al o f s ss a o all o s and the ppe exclu ivene b ve ther , in additi on strive s to present so large a variety o f becom ing hats th at every customer can make a choice suit a to a e and a ble her g appear nce .

The Most Import ant E l ements in Choosing a Hat Color and fo rm are the most important elements to

o s e oos h W c n id r in ch ing a becoming at. hile the

a o f a al s so ss and oss inﬂu qu lity the m teri , their ftne gl ,

a a a e o f a hat a a a s are not ence the ppe r nc gre t de l , the e so essenti al to its becoming appearance as are color and o f rm . Col o r is the simpler o f these two elements f or

os o a s is o a a o f s s m t pe ple , bec u e it nly m tter per i tent

- a i eye tr in ng . Chapter XII

PRINCIPLES OF COLO R *

I mpo rtance of a K now l edge of Co l or to the S al e sperso n

Color is a matter o f very great importance in connec

o a a s o f o ti n with m ny v rietie merchandi se . In rder to

s a and ass art o a judge textile , chin gl , embr idery , dr per ies s a - to - a a s and a , rug , re dy we r g rment , millinery, m ny o a s o f c a s so ther v rietie mer h ndi e intelligently , me fun

a n o f o is ss a ac d me tal kn wledge o c lor e enti l . The cepted theories o f col o r and col o r combinati ons are n therefore give here brieﬂy .

Comb inations of Col ors There are two ways o f combining color s which pro ff s s are duce quite di erent re ult . They

Th f o o s e combination o c l red light .

o a o o f o o s o r s The c mbin ti n c l red pigment dye .

W f o o s are o re hen dif erent c l red light c mbined , the s i o o f the o o o W o o ult s a combinati n tw c l rs . hen c l red

s are o one o o s s to a so or pigment c mbined , c l r eem b rb

T s a ter onta n n the e sse nt a r n es of o or was re ar e hi ch p , c i i g i l p i cipl c l , p p d by the editor and appear s in several of the manua ls of this s eri es . 1 10

I 1 2 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

t a o or o s i ei her in the r inb w thr ugh the pri m , there s every gradati o n from one colo r to the next so that the change from one color to the other is almost imper

ibl F or s a ce t e . a s o p in t nce , the red ch nge thr ugh the

f t s o f - o a to o a and s di feren degree red r nge r nge , thi changes through the o range - yellows to yellow ; the yel low changes through the yellow - greens to green ; the green changes through the green - blues to blue ; the

a s o h o - s blue ch nge thr ug the vi let blue to red .

S tandard Co lors The colors o f the spectrum are accepted as the nor mal or s a a o o s : o a o t nd rd c l r red , r nge , yell w , green ,

and o blue , vi let . These n ormal or standard colors are represented in f F or each case by the greatest intensity o the colo r .

s a s an a is os s in t nce , the t d rd red the m t inten e red , the

“ s a a is s o s and so on. t nd rd blue the tr nge t blue , W hile the spectrum has six color s which seem to be o f a o a ra o f a equ l imp rt nce in the y light , we ﬁnd th t in mixing pigments o r dye s they fall int o tw o classes

o o s called primary and secondary c l r .

” Primary Colors The primary color s are so individual th at they can n not be produced by a y mixture o f other colors . They

are and o . red , blue , yell w S econdary col o rs may be made by mixing he o s are t primary ne . They

O a a m1x 1n red and o e . r ng , m de by g yell w

G a o and . reen , m de by mixing yell w blu*e o a and . Vi let , m de by mixing blue red

Charact eristics o f Primary Colors

O f a o o s o is os ad the three prim ry c l r , yell w the m t ” v ancin at is s s to s an ouf o its a g , th , eem t d fr m b ck

is n os s ground . It nearest to white a d p sesse the

a es o a gre t t p wer o f reﬂecting light . It imp rt s bril liancy in a greater or le ss degree to every compound o s int which it enter .

Red is os os s s a as the m t p itive. It repre ent w rmth it is a and and a a s to a a brilli nt cheerful , it ppe r dv nce R d on an so a . e e ss s a o a d mewh t xpre e vibr ti n , cti ,

a t w rm h . Blue is the most retiring o f the primaries and

’ s s o ss a a to o repre ent c ldne , ppe ring recede fr m the

s a ss a o s s to eye . It imp rt s coldne in v ri u degree every colo r or hue into the composition o f which it enters .

Ther e ar e several the or ies concerning the numbe r of primar y c ol ors in t b u t t e do n ot a te r the a t t at u e r ed and e o annot b e ligh , h y l f c h bl , , y ll w c ma e in ments or e s om n n ot e r o or s w e the t nts d pig dy by c bi i g h c l ; hil i , s a e s and u e s o f all ot er o ors e x e t ue red and e ow ma be h d , h h c l c p bl , , y ll y m n of su h om n t ons made by ea s c c bi a i . 1 1 4 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

Characteristics of S e condary Col ors

the s o a o o s o os o f O f ec nd ry c l r , green , c mp ed the pri

a 1 s e and o is oo or a as it s to m r e blu yell w , c l w rm incline

or o Yet in a is oo and blue yell w . gener l it c l , cheerful ,

refreshing .

O a o os d o f o and is os r nge , c mp e yell w red , the m t

a a s is o os o f dvancing o f the second rie . It c mp ed two luminous colors and is con sidered the warme st and

os o l h o s o o m t p werful o f a l t e col rs . It h uld theref re se s a be u d p ringly .

o or e o os o f and is Vi let purpl , c mp ed red blue , the darkest o f the secondary colors and is related m ost a to a I t and oo s ne rly bl ck . reﬂects very little light l k s a a is a o o till d rker in declining light . It retiring c l r

and a o red s o its o os o it a o , lth ugh enter int c mp iti n , c nn t be ass s cl ed a a warm color except in its redder hues . o a a s as as a a s In yell w rtiﬁci l light , uch g light , it ppe r

o . to ma o s br wn Next green , purple y be c n idered the most pleasing o f the secondary colors and has almost universally been considered the royal or imperial colo r I t is o a o a the a o f pr b ble , h wever , th t Tyri n purple ,

we a e ea so a oa a so or which h v h rd much , ppr ched crim n

red a a the and s o o o as , r ther th n deep ubdued c l r kn wn e o a purpl t d y .

Luminous and S omb er Colors

Colors are al so described as

1 I 6 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

and o I is a and s a o o f . t o citrine live retiring ed te c l r ,

r but not di smal no depressing .

Ma oo is o a o f ss and o r n f rmed by mixture ru et live, an ss o f with exce red .

a is a a s s o s Gr y lw y re tful t the eye . A perfectly neu tral gray which form s the perfect background f or o ther

o o s is a o a o o f a and s s c l r , c mbin ti n bl ck white . Be ide

a a are a o s as - a s the neutr l gr y , there m ny ther , blue gr y , o - a s and - a s o a o live gr y , green gr y , f rmed by dding ther colors. Black and white make gray in whatever combinati on are s they u ed .

Ab sorption and Reﬂ e ction of Co lor The colo r o f any object is due to its power to absorb

n s certain colored rays in white light a d to reﬂect other . An object which l ooks red reﬂects only the red and

s o re has absorbed the other co lo red ray . A blue b dy

n s l ﬂ ects the blue a d ab orbs a l other rays . W hite substances reﬂect all the rays o f light; black

s ll F o r s aso a is sub stances ab orb them a . thi re n bl ck sa to a s o f all o o s as is id be the b ence c l r , white the

f ll o no o f o o s e o a . pre enc ! H wever , mixture c l red

o i pigm ent s will produce white . The the ry s true only

M s o f o o a s o o f light rays. ixture c l red p int will pr duce

a gr y . )

its a so o o f a s a o s o By b rpti n light r y , bl ck l wer the t ne PRINCIPLES OF COLOR 1 1 7

f n a S o o o s s o a o o to . as y c l r pl ced next it me c l r , uch

o o s s . yell w , it imp veri he

its o o f all a s hei htens ‘ or By reﬂecti n light r y , white g brightens the tone o f any colo r which is placed close beside it .

Compl ementary Col ors

The colo r rays absorbed by any substance comple ” or o o s in a ment, c mplete , the ne reﬂected m king white r the o . o t a e a ar light Theref re , hey c lled c mplement y colo rs. The complementary co lor o f

is o a Blue r nge .

R d is e green .

o is o Yell w vi let .

In the diagram ! Figure 7 ) the complementary col o rs are found by following the vari ou s line s acro ss the circle to the opposite outer edge . These colors are sometimes supplied by the nerves o f the eye itsel f which are wearied by l ooking too long at one h s ma be o a s e ex eri ue. Thi y pr ved by impl p ment . If a circular piece o f red pape r is pl aced on a white

ac o and oo at s a f or a and b kgr und l ked te dily time , then

s are n o a a s a a e the eye tur ed t w rd white urf ce , gre n circle exactly corresponding in size to the red one ﬁrst I 1 8 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

a r o seen will appe r . A blue o a yell w circle will pro duce their complementary colors in a similar man ner . Thi s exhausti on o f the nerves o f the eye al so causes a col o r to appear duller a fter one has looked at it a

o s are s a o c o o l ng time . I f the nerve re ted by n ther l r e speci ally the complementary one they will become a normal gain . W hen the complementa ry col ors are reﬂected from a o o o a a a a o n ther c l r r ther th n white b ckgr und , they

a f ch nge the hue o that col or . To s are a d oo at eye which f tigue by l king blue , red

a a an o a - red o o in will ppe r like r nge , yell w will be m re

- s and a e a as a o n. ten e , green will pp r yell w gree I f red has oo at a a as a been l ked , blue will ppe r green

o as a - o and a a blue , yell w green yell w , green will ppe r

d a ' v i l a a . n re a o et a e blue After gree , will h ve ppe r nc ,

o o e o a a o yell w will be m r like r nge , blue will be vi let

- f and o a a o a . s are a s o blue , r nge red r nge The e m tter f s great importance in the display o merchandi e . The following rules should be remembered

R a s o ed ne r blue seem yell wer .

R s ed near yellow seem bluer .

R d s an t e near green seem purer d brigh er .

s Red nea r black seem duller .

Red near white seem s brighter .

Red near gray is not changed.

1 2 0 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

Prope rties of C olo r

Co o s ma s s a o to l r y be di tingui hed cc rding their hue ,

a and s their v lue , their inten ity .

Hues

o ma s The w rd hue y be u ed in three ways . In writings on the science o f color hue signiﬁes the

o s s s one o o o . a o pr perty which di tingui he c l r fr m n ther . In common speech it is employed to mean a particu lar s a o r f h de degree o color . The word is co rrectly used when applied to the mod i cation f one o o th o f a o o ﬁ o c l r by e additi on n ther col r .

“

s - o t and - o are s o f o a Thu , red vi le blue vi let hue vi let m de r f a by the excess o f red o o blue . In the di gram the hues are found between the primary and secondary

o o s S s o s are oss . c l r . till further divi i n p ible

Valu es The value or tone o f a color is the gradati on from light to dark by the additi on o f white in the lighter

' A o t tones and o f black in the darker one s . t ne ligh er

a s a a is o a a and one th n the t nd rd pr perly c lled tint ,

a is a e a s a a o a o d rker c ll d h de , but m ny pe ple c ll b th ” nd a s a Ros o o is a o f s a s s es . tint h de h d e c l r tint red , i while crim son s a sh ade . In the diagram the concentric circle s repre sent the tint s produced by adding varying amounts o f white ; PRINCIPLES OF COLOR 1 2 1

the numerals above the line represent the parts o f f o o os o a s o e . c l r ; th e bel w , the p rt whit

Col or S cal es

s a o f an o o r The c le y c l r, whether it be a pure col or o

a o s s s o f all o s o hue , c n i t the t ne fr m the lightest tint

r f to a s s a . a e or s a s al s the d rke t h de There , in t nce, c e

o f - - nd a - a . green blue , purple blue , gr y blue i I ntensity

s is s t o f o o o m or Inten ity the treng h a c l r . The n r al n f standard col o rs are in full inte si ty . The intensity o ” a col o r is reduced by graying it with its comple f a o o . a o o o a to e or ment ry c l r By the dditi n r nge blu ,

o f to o o ma s to a - in green red , the c l r y be ubdued h l f

- d o n a s o r a s an s o . a ten ity qu rter inten ity , I f l rge a o o f o a is a o a m unt the c mplement ry dded , the rigin l

o o a c l r will be reduced to a dull gr y .

Co l or Harmo nies H armony i n the combination o f colors may be o f two kind s

1 f a a o o o s . . H rm ny c ntr t

2 . a o o f or H rm ny anal ogy likeness .

Harmony o f contrast is between colo rs which are

os a o is o o s m t unlike e ch ther . It perfect when the c l r

d o e or nd re o a . an a a a c mplement ry Blue r ng , red 1 2 2 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

are a mo o s one o f easo s f or green , perfectly h r ni u , the r n the pleasant sensation being that each one deepe ns o o o f o an a s e the c l r the ther d m ke it purer . The tru contrasting color o f any color may be found by f ol h h lo wing t e cross lines in the diagram . The ar mony o f complementa ry colo rs is very bright i f the

o o s are s a or o o s c l r in full inten ity . Gr yed br ken t ne

a a a o m ke quieter h rm ny . Harmony by contrast may al so be secured with the

s on a s o f o a o o as hue e ch ide the c mplement ry c l r , blue

- o a or o o r - or with red r nge , yell w red with blue green

- o blue vi let . The harmony o f anal ogy o r likeness is between

o o f s r o s ma c l rs o the ame o related c lor scale . They y be :

I D f s a s or s o f sa s a as . i ferent h de tint the me c le , n light red a d dark red .

2 D ff s o f sa o o as - e . i erent hue the me c l r , blue gre n

- and yellow green .

The ﬁrst is sometime s called a m ono - chromatic o r

- o s or s a s o self color h arm ny . The tint h de c mbined

o a to s o Should h ave en ugh v riety be di tinct , but Sh uld not be so diff erent as to lose their likeness and form a On a ra s har h arm ony o f contrast . the di g m the e m onie s are Sh own along each line from the full colo r to white .

Chapter XIII

COLOR I NMILLINERY

Comm ercial Nam es of Co l o rs In the ﬁeld o f colo r it is hard not to be ov erin

a are usu ﬂ uenced by the merely fashi on ble . There a s al s s s a s o i one ma oose lly ever tyli h h de fr m wh ch y ch ,

and o o f s are b o is f ar to i f n ne the e ec ming , it better

so a is o is not the get mething th t bec ming , even i f it

very latest . Every year the Col or Associ ati on brings out new

o o a s a s o o s s as oo s . c l r c rd , n ming the e c l r j u t they ch e

is not ss a to a all o f s am s is It e enti l le rn the e n e , but it helpful to know the leading ones o f the year in case

s o s ask f or and a so a s o are cu t mer them , l bec u e w men

al a s s a s w y intere ted in the new n me . The nam e generally suggests something famili ar ;

f or s a a s a as s o r a o in t nce , b ttle hip gr y , gr green , pe c ck

S o a s f r blue . me n me last o many year s and some are no o or n s so Th t well kn wn even f o e ea n . e names do

s o o to h to see f or ns a a a tudying c l r be r a le , i t nce , th t Nile g reen is a green with a little blue m it t a mere ” h n _ y a o f e n to know it by the n me Nil green . O e person 124 COLOR I N MILLINERY 1 2 5

ma oo at a hat and sa a is o an y l k y th t it vi let , while o ther may note that the vi olet is not pure but has a

s o reddi h t ne . N 0 colors in materi als o r dyes are really pure ; there

is a a s a s Other l r . I n lw y light a O .

“

' red o f o r s a c is a a s 5 f und in in t n e , there lw y

nd o little blue a yell w . The only really pure col o rs

" re o the a o and s a a f und in r inb w the pri m tic spectrum . The mixture s o f colo r and the resulting tints a nd shades are mu ch mOre varied and pleasing f or general use and

o o a the ure much m re bec ming th n p , o o a o s and w uld be . Alt gether, the r inb w hue the

Shade s and tints that can be made o f the se number .

o o s nd o o o about to c l r a c l r t nes . / It is small wonder that new tones can come Out every

a n a s S ye r a d the supply still remain unexh u ted . ince

' are so a o ss o o combinations it is there m ny p ible c l r ,

o ss a a s is imp ible to kno w all the f ncy n me . But it possible and most useful to be able to tell the compo sition o f ac o o o a is w a its as o o e h c l r t ne th t , h t b ic c l r is and s how a an a o o f b a o r , ju t l rge m unt l ck white

I s it . s o is O uncon . a there in Thi bility , th ugh it ften s o s is ss one is to o a oo o f ci u , e ential i f bec me g d judge

o o c l r . ; The head o f a very succe ss ful dre ssm aking e stab ’ lishment once Said : I d on t care what a » colOr is

a s o called . I w nt to be able to ee what it is ; t analyze 1 2 6 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

h it . S e found thi s p ower o f analysi s impo rtant as a ﬁrst step in deciding what w ould g o well with a certain

o o ar c l r . There e a number o f law s th at are helpful

s in determining thi .

Training the S ense o f Co lor D oes everyone h ave a changeless instinct f or color ? fro m the beginning A baby reache s f or col o red

a s s c a f or nd s P a s a . b ll , e pe i lly the g ye t brighte t rimi

o s and asa s s o o o f tive pe ple pe nt h w their l ve bright, v 1v 1d o o I h or c l rs n t ei r a d nments and dress . Very

o o s v a so col y ung pe ple in tincti ely like g yer , un ftened o rs t o o d better h an lder pe ple o . ’ s o is a aso f or not a o o s Thi , theref re , re n ll wing ne

o o s s to s a at a s an s a s c l r en e t y t d till , bec u e with culti i ‘A n vati o n the taste f or col o r beco me s m o re reﬁned . uneduCated taste prefers combinati ons o f bright col

Ors as o s a s s o o o , but the eye bec me tr ined it ee m re c l r in o s o o o f a o t ne it f rmerly th ught dull) ; Think y ung ’ bbys ch oice Of necktie s when he has his o wn w ay ! Yet bright colo rs are not to be condemned by any

S s a s a o or s a hat is st means . ometime m ll vi let c rlet j u a os e the touch needed to complete a cert in c tum .

o a s a a to o s e H wever , it t ke tr ined eye kn w ju t wh n and how o o s ma be o f or are f ar bright c l r y w rn , they more difﬁcult to choose and arrange than more quiet

o t ne s.

1 2 8 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

o s a to o How a putty t ne h ppen be in v gue . m ny people

are w ho o on s o o s s there Sh uld never put uch c l r , ince their faces have not eno ugh natural color to counter act o w and a ff the yell gr y e ect . Good ﬂesh tints cannot be brought o ut by col ors ” i h o a o tothe law o f o s wh c , w rking cc rding c mplement ,

a o o o o o r m ke the c mplexi n l k blue green .

Reﬂection

one w a o is an o ff s or o to ‘ y nly there et excepti n In “ ff s o f o s and a is t is the e ect c mplement , th t when here

a f or o O a a s a a ch nce reﬂecti n . nly when the m teri l ne r the face are glossy enough to reﬂect the 1r colo r upon

s a o o a law o f o s it , will thi cti n c unter ct the c mplement

nd o f o f sa o o a is o a pr duce the e fect the me c l r th t w rn . W ith a little practice yo u can see cases o f reﬂecti on

f o i and even pro duce the ef ect y urself when it s needed .

P a s o f a hat o f re erh p the under brim , where reﬂecti n

i o n o s s s s a . que tly w rk , the be t illu tr ti n in millinery I f the under brim is silky o r glo ssy enough to reﬂect

its co o o a o f w a s ff l r up n the f ce the e rer , thi e ect will be obtained rather th an the effect o f the opposite o r

a o o complement ry c l r . Reﬂecti on o ften makes gray o r nonde sc ript eyes

look dark blue .

C h aracteri s tics of C o l o r s A s you think more about c ol ors they seem to develop COLOR IN MILLINERY 1 2 9

di stinct characteri stics and each color gains a vivid

a me ning .

R e d

Red is s a s it s s a timul nt which liven s urrounding .

- I t a a s att 1o 1s h and a a s ttr ct ent n, c eerful gree ble . U ed

S a a s I t I S one o f e rettiest o f o s in m ll qu ntitie th_ p_ c tume - . o a o s is o o o f ﬁre and a and dec r ti n . It the c l r w rmth

s s o s a f o r a s a eem m re uit ble winter th n ummer we r . The darker tones o f red are apt to be becoming to both o s and s s a to os a a bl nde brunette , e peci lly th e with cle r

o t n o . o ou a c mplexi n Bright red , h wever , will bring y e s k1 I not at all o to gre ni h hue in the S n. It S bec ming

os a a o a o th e with uburn hair . A red h ired pers n c nn t

a i r I n o w we r unless it s so ftened o veiled s m e ay.

o s o f s as ss or a oo are The br ken hue red , uch ru et m r n , sa fer . The trouble with a stimulant is that one is apt to

o o f a s s is s e a r w tired it in qu ntitie . Thi e p ci lly g _ l rge a o f 1 o w o f a ss true red . One 5 likely t n tired red dre

or hat o o is o out and a e so is l ng bef re it w rn , i f p r n to have only one hat it is not wi se to choose a red n o e .

To some people red is so inten se and exciting as to

i P r no sa a . u e sho t omb e , c n ” be di gree ble red uld , be i d

o or o a a - with yell w r nge , but r ther with blue , blue g reen ,

nd o b a o s re one a . a green c m in ti n better i f , I 3 0 MI LLINERY DEPARTMENT

o r o o f the o o s ar - b th , c l r e hal f intensity or so ftened

a s with neutr l . Red is easy to match in artiﬁcial light as it changes

O rang e

O a is a. a o o a m and s a r nge g y c l r , w r bright , timul ting

nd s a . s a as a exciting It mu t be u ed very c refully , little

f an ou o f a o o it goes a l ong way. C y think m ny pe ple ? to whom it is becoming It is u sually very trying to

a a s is so s and s s a we r , bec u e it inten e give the kin

s blui h tinge . Broken tones o f o range are m ore becoming to

s an - a o A o has a brunette d auburn h ired pe ple . bl nde

oo a o f o a and tan a a g d de l yell w , cre m , lre dy in her coloring and the inten se brightne ss o f the o range nd a s oo a a . s s m ke them l k dull f ded Be ide , the stronger tones o f orange cl ash with the shades o f her

a h ir . O range combines p oorly with red and only fairly

o and e e with red , vi let , gre n , but well with blue , blu

- i and o t. green , blue v le

Yellow

o s s Yell w, like the unlight , brighten everything it touches .

n s f o ak a s and o s a so Broken to e o yell w m e t n br wn l ,

I 3 2 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

are os s - or ﬂorid com th e with very__ bright red cheek , _

n No o o a a s t s p lexLo s . w nder we ﬁnd s m ny h t in hi

o o o r a s o a o c l r , trimmed with it , perh p c rrecting n ther

o o i o f o c l r that s m re di ﬁcult t wear . Green is difﬁcult to match and changes somewhat in

“ a al l ht t oo s o c a rtiﬁci ig . O her c l r g well with ert in

s a s o f s a a so a s h de green , e peci lly with ft gr yi h blue

n is so a a to o green , but pure gree mewh t h rd c mbine f is a c a t o o s o . well , p rti ul rly wi h ther t ne green It good with vi olet and ju st the rig ht sh ades o f b1u€ZrT

are os ch en .

Blue W hen one thinks o f blue one thinks o f the di stant

s a s o a sk E air s s hill , the l ke , the ce n , the y. ven the eem

o c oler . Blue is p erhaps the most p opula r o f all colors f or

a a a as it s e s to out c a a we ring pp rel , e m bring the h r cter

and a o f a a delic cy f ce .

is o to o s a s its o Blue bec ming bl nde , bec u e c mple

nar o an o s os o r me t y , r ge , c mbine with their r e

- o t cream white c lo ring o make a delicate ﬂe sh tint .

Pa e s s o not a a s le brun tte h uld we r light blue , bec u e it give s a ti nt o f o range yellow to the1r darker

complexi ons . Blue is a restful color to choose and one d oes not COLOR IN MILLINERY 1 3 3

f th li hter es and gr tired o it . In g tog ﬂ s a bons and o in tr w , rib : ther

f the hardest color s to match under arti

and M am s as the e tru ted , blue l ooks duller in any light which has m it an excess o f

its a o s o yellow . Blue in d rker t ne c mbines well with s a or and e h o or o a c rlet red , light blu wit yell w r nge , but n o ot with vi let .

Viol et

o is a oo s o o not too o Vi let c l , ummery c l r , yet c ld , s al i r v l 1 o to o e peci ly i f it s a ed 1o et . It 5 bec ming pe ple

“ i i Th h s a os o o s. em s a w th f r , r y c mplexi n de are mo be omin q au ir a o re c g i _ W th n the red vi let o ones . The latter c mbinati o n I S darmg and too o ften

ss s s o o s mi e being j u t right . Vi let c mbine well with w o a a d sca , low, o r ng e y el “ n blue _green but p orly with rlet o r and 13 not so oo th o an as o . red , g d wi r ge with yell w The becoming eff ect of vi olet usuallydepends upon the a o o f h o s out in t e o . m unt pink w c mplexi n It bring the

o k yell w tinge in a pale or sallow S 1n.

W e s to asso a o old a s and u ed ci te vi let with l die , it w as the only col o r that elderly people were suppo sed to wear with dignity» W hile it is a very digniﬁed

o o s o f o a our as a a c l r , the ymbol r y lty , ide h ve ch nged in recent years and we are pleased not only to see chil MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

a a so to see o s dren in l vender , but l elderly pe ple in blue and o o s r o even brighter c l r when they a e bec ming.

Vari ety in Co lor ” old sa a is s o f is no An ying , V riety the pice life ,

o an o o f o o How where m re true th in the w rld c l r .

f s ro tired we shoul d become , o always eeing equal p

o o s o f o Ra is a hat a p rti n c lo rs u sed together . rely m de and trimmed with equal amount s o f tw o or m ore

o o s and is s are so a a as to o c l r , i f it , the e rr nged pr duce a a f Th e that v ar in a o s o f v ried ef ect . rule y g m unt v “ “ colo r are attractive generally h olds g oon Variety is pleasing not only in the amount o f

1 i s e o f ss tw o o o s colo r but also n t d egre darkne . If c l r

‘ do not oo o ak a o f one and l k well t gether , by t ing tint a s a o f o and a s so one o r h de the ther , perh p ftening

o a or a tw o a an b th with gr y, white , bl ck , the will m ke

ma o a attractive harm ony . A light green y g be uti fully

a a or a w a o as with d rk blue , pink ith vi let , where the

full green o r red might not have lo oked so well . Many illu strati on s o f thi s law o f variety may be found

a s s e a s . in h t , e p ci lly in their trimming The m ost economical w ay to dress is to ﬁnd the One or tw o col o rs that are the m ost b ecoming and to stick _ _ _ n to th ose in ch oo sing wearing apparel . The every

M o oos a e s . a thing m atche ny pe ple ch e d rk blu , which ou a a s o who is generally becoming. I f y h ve cu t mer

1 3 6 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

two o o s do not o s a o a I f c l r g e peci lly well t gether, touch o f bl ack with them or their entire separation by the use o f black or white will so ften and harmonize

o a o and a s a a o effec the c mbin ti n , perh p m ke e ch m re tive . Other neutral s which are much u sed in hats are - M o o s with a Od a o f a o r a s c l r t de l bl ck gr y in them , uch

' ” ‘ as o - a and tanf YellOwis a o o a br wn , green gr y; c l r th t

" ” o s a ost o s e a g e well with lm every ther , e p ci lly when so to a a a s o is a ftened cre m , bec u e yell w ne r white in - i ‘ ' ss and o or s tones irT lightne , like g ld the unlight , with

Ma s a s are tan or o everything . ny tr w either yell w , and the natural straw h armonize s well with any col or o f trimming .

a s ss and ats are at as sa a o Neutr l in dre h le t fe , lth ugh if untouched by brightening co lo rs they are apt to ap

a s a s o ma o pear somewh t ober . A cert in di tincti n y ften

s ho e a s o f ‘ a a or be een , w ver , in h t bl ck , gr y , white where the absence o f colo r only emphasizes the beauty o f

a n s the gr ceful a d unusual line .

Combinations of Ne utral s with Brighter Col ors S tudy the effecto f neutral s in combination with other

o ma 1 take s to a to a col rs. It y week tr in the eye be re lly ‘ f L an o a can o s a o o . b erv nt col r ike y ther f culty , it be W ou a s devel oped greatly by training . hen y h ve lei ure

as on a da s ha s o a . a r iny y, tudy the t in y ur dep rtment COLOR I N MILLINERY 1 3 7

Note what neutral s ar tened by bits o f color or what colo rs would be roved by the use o f a neutral

a S ki d s in combin ti on . e igners place a neutral

- “ o o o f 0 a o t the of d c l r, ten white m , b u neck a ress

h o r undér the i o f a hat o to m a h br m , in rder ke t em mor om e bec ing .

’ H ow to Train O ne s S elf in Col or - T aste

’ O ne o f the most success ful w ays o f training one s

’ s 1n o o - as 15 to a s o ne 5 s elf c l r t te try h t up n o friend . It is remarkable to note the actual Changes inthe appear a o f a s and o o s f nce h ir, eye , c mplexi n with di ferent

o o s is s ol M . a l d sa a o c l r There u efu ying , tch y ur

s for o s an g u hair f o r s buf ye the h u e d_ the treet , e y r_ it a ot a s a c nn be pplied indi crimin tely . Each o f your friends repfesents a type o f the cus tomers who o to ou and s a will c me y , with thi pr ctice

ou ma a o o s to s s to y y le rn the c l r ugge t them . And since you are o ften required to plan the trimming o f

a s o e a o ou f s o f com h t , n te everywher b ut y the e fect binations o f o o c l r .

a o f o s or o f s s o a In the r ck h iery tie in the t re , h ve the articles been hung in the w ay th at you would hang ? them W ould the change Of one o r tw o improve the ? eff ect Of the whole The pretty eff ect o f a di splay is o s one as o o W ften ruined by ju t cl hing c l r . hat colors seem to you to clash ?DO not believe what you I 38 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT are told by others in thi s respect but te st the matter f or

o s y ur elf . By persi stent study you will surely increase and de v l a o f a e op your goo d taste . The rew rd p ying greater a o o o o o a o s is as a S o ttenti n t c l r c mbin ti n imme ur ble . many people wear unbecoming col o rs because they f know nothing o f colo r ef ect s.

S o da a s o a as to me y, perh p , every w m n will ﬁnd it e y obtain thi s info rm ati on to aid her in dressing ; until then the intelligent sale sw oman should be able to im

ma o f o s a to s o . s o p rt it her cu t mer The cu t mer y, c ur e , ask f or and u o o o s s ha prefer nbec ming c l r , but thi p

s a S he is s a o a a pen very r rely . u u lly m re th n gr teful i f her time is not w asted in trying on hats which are not s to uited her coloring.

1 40 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

O ne arti st says o f h ats The funny punch in the

ma out all a o f a a o brim y bring the g yety f ce ; the l ng , so ft droop may accentuate its p athos ; the j aunty up ” on the s ma a s a o ﬂing ide y give it udden br ve n te ,

as : o ma a a a a where the wr ng line y ccentu te in f ce , not its a its oa s ss not its ss br very but c r ene , prettine but its s n i a o s a ss s ot ts s it . pettine , p th but he vine The science o f thi s witchery o f line is elusive and

o a s can s a concernm 1t . but nly gener litie be t ted g , the sa e s s a o s a o and f o w c m per i tent , lert b erv ti n e f rt by hi h your eye f or colo r is cultivated will devel op sen sitive

ss o a a o f ne t the m gic l inﬂuence a line . T he shape o f the hat may be analyzed under several headings :

I h a o a o f o a . . The rel ti n o t e p rt s t e ch ther

2 f s an a s and . s o s d The kind line , curve , ngle ,

a o to o their rel ti n each ther .

a o o f hat a s to 3 . The rel ti n which the f rm o the be r the di ff erent proporti on s o f the face s and

a s o f ff he d di erent individual s .

Rel atio n Be tw ee n the P arts of a Hat The relati on o f the parts o f the hat to one another has to do with the am ount o f trimming and the size f o the brim in propo rti on to the crown . There sh ould be the right propo rti on between the “ o f and o f o width the brim the height the cr wn . A FORM OR SHAPE IN MILLINERY I 4 I

poorly proporti o ned hat m ay l ook top- heavy o r too

a a a . ow a a n much like p nc ke H ever , rightly rr nged a d

ass ma o c s a h a at. m ed , trimming y c rre t thi f ult in Another w ay in which a hat may o ffend the eye is ‘ the a a a o f too a the a by ppe r nce t , _ _ much weight b ck h o o r s . at s o oo as o fr nt , ide A h uld l k th ugh it would stay upon the head o f the wearer without gre at effort

o a an s a f up n her p rt . I f unu u lly large amount o trim m ing is upon one side o f the hat dy or brim o r at

a or o s o to out the b ck fr nt , it h uld be there only bring

" or to o so a F o r s a a c rrect mething in the f ce . in t nce ,

a a is too a o o a to o ma a he d th t n rr w fr m b ck fr nt , y we r h a at with an extra mass in the back .

L es C es and A s and R a o s in , urv , ngle , Their el ti n

L a s are t a o or . ine ei her str ig ht , br ken , curved In h f a s at o o a s a a . , perfecti n curve m ke be uti ful h pe The

s should seem to ﬂ ow o one a o o r curved line l int n ther , to gr ow out o f one lanother ; they sho uld not come to

i l r o a s o s o on 1nV1s b ou a a . brupt t p , but g y in im gin ti n A peculi ar characteri stic o f a line is that when the

o s s o it s to o o o eye nce re t up n , it tend f ll w the directi n o f the line ; thi s is why the m ost skilfully designed

t f a F o r s a s s o o out o o . curve eem gr w e ch ther in t nce , trimming Often so ftens into a delicate little curve the otherwi se sharp angle at the base o f the crown where

o hat is a o f urv e it j ins the brim . I f the m de up p d 1 42 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

s s o o o s o to line , the trimming h uld f ll w the e in rder be s arti ti c . If th e hat has been fashioned stifﬂy in a m ore tail

o s o e s and a s o a o s red tyle with br k n line ngle , the dec r ti n ! are o es o s ff o a and a o a . c rr p ndingly ti er , m re ngul r , t il red

s n o s Thi principle should guid e o e in ch o ing trimming .

a ou not o as a a a so H ve y n ticed gener l thing th t ft ,

o a s a e o e o a ﬂ ppy h t h v m r curving , ﬂ wing , gr ceful trim

s a a o a s a o s a ming th n t il red h t , which f v r tr ighter

a s s - u s s ff o s and o a a fe ther , tick p , ti b w , ther ngul r trim ? mings Trimming which stick s right out from some

s o on a hat is a t to a s a a and difﬁ p t p be in rti tic , wkw rd ,

to a L s and o out o f one cult we r . ine which curve gr w another are said to have rhythm like a ﬂ owing melo dy

a so S a an les a and 1 s s a in ng . h rp g l ne uddenly bre king away from the directi on in which the eye expects them to r C a s aso s o g o a e harder to h andle . ert in e n bring int favo r m ore arti stic shape s and m ethods o f trimming

a do o s th n ther .

S ymm etry in a Hat

on one s as ot I f a hat is exactly the sam e ide the her ,

a is one s and all s os it th t , i f ide , trimming , upp ing 6 o o hat i folded over were to c incide with the ther , the

t s a S a hat is o f to sa id o be ymmetric l . uch m re di ﬁcult

wear th an one whi ch has diff erent but well - bal anced

s and s as is a t to a a o to the side , i f lightly kew p c ll ttenti n

1 44 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT a hat too large f or her The husband o f a certa1n

o a s s on a a a s a w m n in i ted her we ring l rge h t , which m de

oo and she o not a his as b e her l k thin , c uld ch nge ide cau se she did not know enough about f orm to convince

him that he w as wrong . A large w oman looks ridiculous in a hat that is Eitheli too s a o r oo a S he s o a o m ll t l rge . h uld divert ttenti n

o s a o s fr m her ize by v iding extreme .

' A a - o o o o a or one o f t ll , well pr p rti ned w m n , medium

ma a ‘ a a hat ss she has a height , y we r l rge , unle thin

face . A short woman should not be made to l ook sho rter

a ﬂ at low hat an o a o f a a by , , y m re th n the height t ll

o a s o as h t w m n h uld be much incre ed by a hig h a . A hat th at extend s beyond the width o f the sh oul

s is o s ar s der c n idered in ti tic . The lines o f the hat when on the head have to be considered in their relati o n to the lines o f the face in order to bring out good feature s and to m ake poor one s

o a a m re ttr ctive .

are a o f n a s o f a s There number ge er l type f ce , but these are sometime s changed o r modiﬁed by some un

s a ac a o r so so a u u l element in the f e , he d , per n , th t while the following di scu ssion o f types and the shapes

o f a s a s is a a w a ou h t th t uit them true in gener l y, y

o f r will wi sh to te st its applicati n o yoursel f . S tudy ’ : the lines o f people s hats and see how they affect the FORM OR SHAPE IN MILLINERY 1 45

s You o s a faces o f the wearer . cann t do thi in im gi

a o s t o is to a s o o n ti n . The be t me h d try h t up n y ur friend s and to analyze the eff ect o f each hat you place

a o f s o upon the he d a cu t mer .

Th Rou a e e Full , nd F c

o a s to a s ss re A full , r und f ce need h ve thi fullne duced so a a a ss ma oo so , th t thre tening f tne y l k like ft ,

o a s a e s t a n rm l curve . The f ce n ed leng hening gener lly and s reducing in ize . F or such a face a small hat is b ad i f it has no brim or

- M nd a - m a s a turned up brim . edium a l rge brim ed h t o e s 8 and are m re becoming . ! S e Figure A ' hat with l arge deep curves w ould probably not l ook so well as one with a m oderately curving or a s a as s a are too oa tr ight brim , the curve in the f ce br d a a lre dy . Q A sa o oo s on a o a o f s and il r l k well w m n thi type , ‘ al so a brim turned down slightly on one side and up

n is o to a i r o the other . It bec ming h ve the brim w de

o a at s s as s a so ss s o in fr nt th n the ide , thi l le en the r und

ff o f e ect the face.

Fl at Features The person with ﬂat features is a type similar to the one o a s a so with r und fe ture in the tre tment needed ,

a s o o a or that the s me uggesti n s apply to her . An v l a u ace anno ear a ur an Figure 8 . A F ll F C t W T b

u ace ooks e in a ar e - r mmed Hat Figure 9 . A F ll F L W ll L g B i O nu - osed erson hou d No ear a ur an Figure I . A S b N P S l t W T b u 1 erson w h e u ar ea ures n a ur an Fig re 1 . A P it R g l F t Ca We r a T b 146

FORM OR SHAPE IN MILLINERY 1 49

A small hat brings out all the fullness and

f is delicacy o curve that there .

The o a s a or one a o o s to s v l h pe , n rr wer fr m ide ide

a om a to o is oo f or Sh s o . e th n fr b ck fr nt , g d her h uld a o s void hats with conical cr wn .

The Angul ar

The sharp - featured face o ff ers much the same prob

a e n o f f or s lem thin f c but eve m re di ﬁculty , thi st be careful to choo se a hat with no lines

the an s o f o s s e gle her n e , cheek , chin , etc .

S o ss s and s o f hat as as ftne in the curve line the , well

so ss its a a s is o o to ftne in m teri l , m re bec ming her .

S a s ff a o e a s are a t to as h rp , ti , t il r d h t p incre e her

angularity and thinness .

and o l a s and so s a s are Velvet ther pi e f bric , ft tr w f ss a s o o a s o a . m re bec ming th n ti f , gl ym teri l

Ag e F or o lder people the materials and lines o f the hat

i o o a o f a s o so n t s s . h uld be ft , rder e e the line the f ce

A s has s e sa oss a a s s a su ju t b en id , gl in m teri l u u lly g s ss ff ss ge t ti ne . An elderly face cannot wear a youthful hat with the

s a h s ff s at ou can s a tr ig t , ti line th the y ng t nd , but de nd a s o a e so t C s. S ee s 1 a m nd m der t , f urve ! Figure 4 1 50 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

The a o s a is a so o to l rge , ﬂ ppy tyle th t l bec ming youthful faces is apt to cast shadows on an older face and to a i s s oo m ke t wrinkle l k deeper .

o a and o s a a s s and F li ge ﬂ wer , gr ceful fe ther , plume , so ft ribbons make mo re becoming style s o f trimming

ff - a s o s s u s. th n ti er f rm , like tick p S ometimes you will have to suggest h ats f or a

o a m a a o o y unger f ce pre turely ged , with w rried w rn

s s sa so tha line , which need the me ftening

ld- s o o f s f a o s . o a f ce d e The f hi ned type ti f , straw bonnet or hat f or older ladies could n

a o e o and is a s now h ve been m r unbec ming, r rely een

f a o a is except in cartoons o old m ids. F rtun tely it the style f or older people to dre ss m ore becom ing ly at the present

time .

Me dium Type o f Face

a is The f ce) which neither too full nor too

a thin , with f irly regu

lar a s can a fe ture , we r

a os an hat a lm t y , l rge

o r s a s m ll , but the line and materi al s o f some bring out goo d points ur 1 I t I s I nar s c to d Fig e 6. ti ti Hi e a o s do the Eyebrows better th n ther

Chapter XV

MAKING AND TRIMMING HATS

Relation B etw een the S al eswoman and th e W orkroom

Every Millinery Department has its w orkroom f or

a a o and o f a s and the lter ti n trimming h t , expert milli ners have acquired their skill through a long course o f

a S o s o o m . sa a s tr ining me le pe ple , h wever , y be u ed in the w orkroom between season s to their own and the ’ s o e s a a a o s o ts t r dv nt ge, i f they kn w the impler p in a o s o o an a s b ut cu t m w rk d h ve deft ﬁnger . S uch knowledge will al so help them to sell exclusive

a s as can o out ff s h t , they p int the di erence between

S s o s as to the se and the more common styles . ugge ti n the renovating o f hats and trimmings are al so - u seful

a h o to the saleswoman and appreci ted by t e cu st mer .

Hat Frames

The foundation o f a hand - made hat is usually a

a ma a o a a o - a fr me , which y be ltered fr m f ct ry m de an Hat and frame or made entirely by h d . wire wil low make a simple and practical foundati on which is

a a is to a e o f much used . If fr me be m d entirely wire I SZ MAK ING AND TRIMMING HATS 1 53 and e o o a hat th n c vered with crin line , fr me wire , ﬁne

and a a1r o f s o r s are ssa . tie wire, p plier pincer nece ry Measurements are m arked on the inside o f the hat to be

o s as o s o f W c pied , uch the ut ide edge the brim , the idth o f o s s and a o f the brim in the fr nt , ide , b ck , the depth

o the a o f o f o s the cr wn , di meter the tip the cr wn , the ize

f s f a o to and s o a o o . r und the p, the ize the b e the cr wn st o s f or a a s s are a In in ructi n given m king h t , the e c lled

o a a o the fr nt brim , b ck , right , left , he d , edge , cr wn ,

o f o s to s . a s a s height cr wn , ide ide , etc In f ncy h pe other measurements may be required .

The Buckram or W illo w Fram e

A simple frame may be made Of willow with a cir cular or o a f or to o a v l piece the p Of the cr wn , piece ’ s a a an s o a f or s s o f o h ped like m c ll r the ide the cr wn , and a circular or oval piece with a hole in the center

s o f a f or a f or the ize the he d , the brim . A p ttern the sides o f the crown can be made by cutting a straight piece o f paper and pinning many dart s in it until it

ﬁts to o f o n is the p the cr wn a d the head . The edge wired by sewing edge hat wire with a strong thread and o o s a o o f butt nh le titch , r und the edge the brim, the o f to o f o and as o f edge the p the cr wn , the b e the o cr wn .

k a is too a to be s a o Buc r m he vy much u ed , lth ugh

o w a f rmerly it as used a gre t deal . 1 54 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

The W ire Fram e

a a o o f o and In a fr me m de wh lly wire , the cr wn brim m a o or o ma o ay be m de t gether , the cr wn y be c mpleted o ﬁrst and then the brim extended from that . I f cr wn

re a o a oo o f a a and brim a m de t gether , h p he vy fr me

is a f or o f to o f o hat wire m de the edge the p the cr wn , and another f or the base o f the crown ; where the hoop i s o a s s to o a . end verl p , ﬁne tie wire u ed h ld them in pl ce Heavy wire is then used to make the spokes o f the cart

ff c at a s o o f wheel e e t , bent right ngle ver the edge the to o f o and o ut a a at as o f p the cr wn , bent g in the b e the crown ! or otherwi se twi sted once aro und the wire at

as o f the o to o W the b e cr wn) f rm the brim . here

s are not s o s wire twi ted but nly bent , ﬁne tie wire mu t be used to fasten such crossing o f wire s as the work

o ss Th o f is a pr gre es . e uter edge o the brim m de by twisting the spokes once each about the frame hat wire is s f r f which being u ed o the edge o the brim . The ends o f thi s wire are held together by ﬁne tie wire as s a a o s o f t ted b ve . The end the sp oke s should be cut

off s a a in uch w ay that they do not stick up . Fr me hat wire is then run around the form as Often as ne ces

sa to a a a or o a s a and a ry m ke ﬁrm , circul r v l h pe , bit o f the ﬁne tie wire is u sed to h old the crossing wires in

a pl ce . I f the crown is to be m ade complete befo re starting

o is s o ff s the the brim, the cr wn ﬁni hed by twi ting

1 56 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

o ﬂ at a and o a o t s be f lded b ck f rth b u twenty time . W ith needle and thread every other crease is caught

o o a s a s s o f oo s D ff t gether , f rming tr ight erie l p . i erent effects are obtained either by drawing the threads tight at the base o f the loop s or by leaving the base ung ath

s s ﬂa o i s f r t. s s o a ered , j u t ewed Thi meth d u ed m king o two or oo s f or a a s - u o r f or nly three l p l rge tick p, an s s o f oo s s o f oo s is to o a y erie l p s . If the erie l p f rm

os o f oo s is s a and r ette , the length l p twi ted circul rly

a a S o o s are a o f o c ught with a thre d . me b w m de ribb n ow wired and glued together to give the effect o f a b .

O ne can a b ow - a a o pr ctice m king with p per , Old ribb n , o r a strip o f narrow cloth S ome bows need wire

a t cked on the inside to hold them erect .

Method of A fﬁ x ing Trimmings

o all w as s to hat now F rmerly trimming ewn the , but ’ ” are a o f s o f M s or there number kind illiner Glue ,

is s a a a as ﬂ ow cement , which u ed gre t de l in f tening

e rs to hat. s s s s o s . s , ribb n , etc , the The e liquid mu t re i t

o s not a a s a and m i ture , injure the m teri l , be perm nent ,

a s o s o have tr ng adhe ive p wer . O ften trimmings are attached to the hat by slipping

o s s hat them thr ugh lit in the itself .

Linings Mercerized materi al s and China and taff eta silk s MAKING AND TRIMMING HATS 1 57

f or ha s s r f t are generally u sed t lining . The e a e o wo

s One s is a a style . tyle dr wn up in the center by

a s o f o thread o r t pe and fa tened t the apex o the cr wn . The other ﬁtted style is very much like the linings in ’ s a s is in tw o s one a ﬂat on men h t ; it piece , pl ced the

s o f o o a a o s s in ide the cr wn , the ther pl ced r und the ide

f o n a o L s o the cr wn a d att ched to the ther piece . ining should be put in slightly above the base o f the crown so a not to o s Sh w .

. i Ma is s f or a s a a s . S a line u ed lining, tr n p rent h t t n

n rib n are no s L s s a a a d w u ed al so . ining u u lly m tch

hat the in col o r .

S o o oo s s all a to sew and me w rkr m buy lining re dy in , it takes a skilful girl between a minute and a half and

o s t e one f ur minute o s w in .

Fre she ning and Cl eaning Cu stomers will appreci ate information upon the care and a o f sa s o a o cle ning millinery . The le w m n sh uld be a to so e a s o f o s at o ble tell her m w y d ing thi h me .

To s v and to a out as s is fre hen elvet t ke the cre e , it

o f r a i steamed . A go d metho d o the am teur s to run it back and forth over the open top o r sp out o f a kettle o f o a P ss n b iling w ter . re ing velvet o the surface with a hot iron lays the nap ﬂat and m ake s a gl ossy panne

f na i n velvet e fect . I f the p s ot to be laid ﬂ at it must not o on the s h a oo o be ir ned right ide except wit c l ir n . I 58 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

S traw hats may be cleaned with a good soap and

a a t a s f oa s a w rm w ter , hen ble ched , tu fed with c r e p per d to s o s a an sun. s re t re the h pe , dried in the Thi

- a is meth od gives a cream white result . A de d white o a use o f o a a s is no t oo bt ined by the x lic cid , but thi g d f f r or s a L o is a oo a o a s . the tr w . em n juice g d ble ch h t A faded colo red straw may be improved with a fre sh w a coat o f shellac poli sh made f or the purpose . The y in which hats are put away has a great deal to do with

s s s their pre ervati on and fresh appearance . It pre erve

s a o f a hat to on a o or the h pe put it f rm , pin it up by

s so a is not a o to s o . the in ide , th t the brim ll wed upp rt it The curling o f feathers is rather difficult as an a a is a t to a n s S a s are m teur p bre k the fi e . ever l flue pulled together between the thumb and the back o f the kni fe ; thi s process is repeated until the flues are suffi cientl y curled . Although bleaching feather s requires chemical

o a s t a are so and o kn wledge , white fe ther h t iled yell w may be improved immen sely by scrubbing them with

as soa and a a and a s c tile p w rm w ter , fter rin ing dyeing

a s them the f inte t blue . Feathers may be dyed in the lighter shades by f ol l owing the method s adopted by pro fe ssi onal dyers as

i C a o two - s o f a tea g ven in h pter VIII . Ab ut third spoonful o f either f ormic or o xalic acid in a pint o f a w ter will set the dye f or one or two feathers .

1 60 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT come to enter and ﬁnd the salespeople idly talking a o s s and a no a o o m ng them elve p ying ttenti n t her . D o you not think that in most cases thi s v i siting a o sa s o s a o a on m ng the le pe ple , e peci lly n tice ble dull

a s and a a a a o s to d y , pr ctice which every m n ger bject , is due to a lack o f ambiti on and intelligent intere st on ? their part There are so m any things they might do ! There is no lack o f opportunity f or study in thi s de

artment. s a a s s a s p They might be tudying m teri l , tr w ,

o o o s on a s and a c l r , f rm , trying trimming h t , even le rn

h o al o ff to s o ing ow t t k m re e ectively the cu t mers.

Lear ning to Talk A bo ut Hat s How many different word s do you think can be ? found to describe a certain hat I f several salespeople

to o f o ss oo ss o try think every p ible g d expre i n , begin

a o f a a ning with e ch letter the lph bet in turn , the num

f o s o o is a a F r s a o t . o ber w rd be f und rem rk ble in t nce , each person suggests a w ord beginning with a

s a os hat and s s a f o r which will de cribe ch en , thi e rch wo rd s keeps going around the circle till no m ore can ” be found beginning wi th a and then b is taken

Ea o is o on a a and s up . ch w rd put d wn p per the re ult

counted . S uch a game will help the salespe ople to avoid the

o o oo a ss o s a c mm n , p r , everyd y expre i n which h ve been so overworked and abused that o ften they even off end SUGGESTIONS TO SALESPEOPLE 1 61

i S s not ssa to . customer s . It nece ry cite them weet , ” ” ” “ ” a ss s are so o f de r , dre y , tunning , little , me

f o s and are o s o . them , there d zen ther

Trade P apers and Hom e S tudy A chance f or intere sting reading and study is to be found in the magazine s and papers which the manager o f a is a s the dep rtment take s . He alw y very willing

a to lo n them to intereste d people . A great number o f salespeople as well as buyer s sub s so a to a oo a s o a cribe per n lly g d dep rtment t re p per,

o a f s f or e a n which c nt ins items o intere t every d p rtme t . ” E onl one a is o a oman a e it is ven i f y ide bt ined fr rticl ,

o w rth while to read it .

Factory Visiting In certa1n cities it may be p ossible f or the salespeople to arrange to vi sit so me factories that pro duce articles

Ma a a s o o too in their line . ny m n ger w uld be nly

a to a sa s o are s and gl d t ke the le pe ple i f they intere ted , nothing could be more in structive and helpful than

s these trip .

The Care of S t ock P erhap s one o f the mo st imp ortant and least recog nized oppo rtunities to study merchandi se lie s in the

a o f s o S s a a and a . d ily c re t ck imple du ting, re rr nging ,

s o ma s a o as af o s a in pecti n y eem h mely t k , but it f rd 1 62 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT s a to a a and e o plendid ch nce h ndle , ex mine , b c me inti m ately famili ar with every kind o f merchandi se in the f a . a o s an o to a s dep rtment It f rd Opp rtunity le rn price , and thi s knowledge may a fterward s be helpful in mak

sa W a oo s o - ma no ing a le . hile g d t ck keeper y t be a

a s an in a s is a a s merch ndi e expert , expert merch ndi e lw y a oo s o - g d t ck keeper . The duty o f caring f or the stock should not be d one

s ss and a ss li tle ly c rele ly , but intelligently , with every faculty awake to the Opportunity o f learning the

oo - is f ut s . a o oo s o o g d In dditi n , g d t ck keeping the

os o a to a o s sa s o a f or m t imp rt nce the mbiti u le w m n , by the personal attenti on she gives it she can keep her s o s s and os sa a o o and t ck in the fre he t m t l ble c nditi n , thereby a vo id the h andicap o f so iled or damaged mer h n i c a d se .

S uch care helps to prevent accumul ations o f slow moving merchandi se and the co nsequent losses through

r a - o s s o - is reducti on s o m rk d wn . An expert t ck keeper o a a to a a and a s ften inv lu ble her m n ger , frequently dr w

a a a o - o who s s o but a higher s l ry th n a c w rker ell m re , do es not keep her stock as though it were her o wn treasured personal p ossessi on .

S eating the Cu stome r Care in seating a cu stomer comfortably befo re a a mirro r is a very important factor in m king a sal e.

1 64 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

S he was probably asked a fooli sh question that meant ” s as ou oo f or a hat? o r little , uch , Are y l king ? S omething in hat s which forced her to reply in

a S he has o an s a s or sh th t w ay. c me with intere t in h t e

o n ot she not a o a w uld be there . Yet did w nt t pl ce herself in a positi on where she might be m ade to buy or to a a she so she sa was dmit th t , might buy , id She ” ju st l ooking . In some departments such an expr ession perhaps

ass sa s o as ou o might p with the le pe ple , but y kn w it “ ” s oo o a a s doe little g d t ju st look t h ts. They mu t be tried on and ﬁtted to the cu stomer befo re anything

c n a o o a too deﬁnite a be decided b ut them . It w uld t ke powerful an imagination to picture how the hat o ff the

o o n head w uld l ok o it .

No so o w ho s a per n , theref re , enter the dep rtment “ should be allowed to just look at h ats without a

she o no ss o f tactful word . I f d es t realize the nece ity

on a hat to out she s o r not trying ﬁnd whether like it ,

h F o r a s e s o a a . a s s h uld be t ctfully t ught inst nce , the le

so sa I t is a to how a hat oo s per n might y, h rd tell l k

is on a s o a to ou until it the he d . I h uld be gl d help y by ” o no s to ﬁtting you even if y u do t wi h buy . Even though the cu stomer says she d oes not intend to s sa s so s o and buy , the wi e le per n h uld be willing

a to and s o o a a re dy ﬁt her , by thi meth d will ften m ke s e al . SUGGESTIONS To SALESPEOPLE 1 65

Av o iding Q u estio ns It is o f the ﬁrst importance that the customer should not be antagonized by the questi ons that are so o ften

Th s w a is to ask to n asked her . e be t y her be seated a d to begin to Show her merchandise with as few direct

o s questi ons as p s ible . Every question that you can avoid asking is a point

s o s a a a o s and a gained . Q ue ti n cre te nt g ni m we riness

’ and i f you can ﬁnd out your customer s ideas about

i h " ski s s a o o . w t out a n a s e price, ize , h pe , c l r , etc , g ingl

s o ou ou sa s and o clien direct que ti n , y will ﬁnd y r le y ur

I a tele ncre sing . S how her the hats your studie s tell you are the best s to and o o s a all uited her , fr m her c mment g ther her

u s as a o a . o o s s ou and ide b t h t F ll w the hint She give y , s o s ou to a s c ss sa the cu t mer her elf will guide y u ce ful le .

Judging a Cu sto me r by H er Dre ss It is a fatal mi stake to assume that a plainly dressed woman will not pay a high price f or something that

as s S ss is o a o f ple e her . imple dre ing ften the m rk re

ﬁnement and oo as and os as o a eo g d t te , the m t f hi n ble p

r s an Ma ple a e apt to dress imply d pl ainly . ny ex tremely wealthy w omen pride them selve s upon the Sim

licit o f ot s s o S o s p y the cl he in which they h p . metime they purposely Sh op in pl ain cl othes to avoid over so a o s to as are as d licit ti n purch e, but, if they ple e , there 1 66 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT is no to a o t can and s limit the m un they will pend . Aside from the unexpected rewards that sometime s come through attentions to even shabbily dressed peo

is no o a s ss to o oo ple , it m re th n imple kindne Sh w the p r as o s a o as a much c n ider ti n the rich . The Americ n s o f o a as e as oo s s and oo pirit dem cr cy , w ll g d en e g d s s ervice , require it .

W he n the Cu stomer Leav es W ith out Buying

a s o a s o no asa I f cu t mer dep rt with ut buying , unple nt impre ssi on Should be left on her mind to prevent her

he s o not a to return at another time . S h uld be m de feel th at she has wasted the time o f the sale sperson or

i s sa o E that the latter s the lea t bit di pp inted . ven more courte sy sh ould be sh own such a customer than

she had a a o a hat a s she s has a i f lre dy b ught , bec u e till hat to buy and on thinking it o ver may return to pur

as S o a s a so easa f o r a ch e . me dep rtment m ke it unpl nt cu stomer who doe s not purchase that She never return s

an under y circum stances .

s o o s a a sa a she a s to I f the cu t mer g e w y , ying th t w nt

oo s e a asa to l k el ewh re , gree with her ple ntly, but try impress her mind so powerfully with the beauty and becoming effect o f some well - selected hat which you have sh own her that she will remember and return f or ou a a o f hat it . I f y m ke the ment l picture the vivid o is s to and o she s s en ugh , She ure remember it n thing ee

I 68 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

2 n d her h m men r . e to s u t e o ou e es re s u on her B gi t y t y y t p . ser e he r c o se as she a roac e s e e he r w a Ob v l ly pp h , M t ith e asan ree n pl t g ti g .

ea he r and r n he r a f ew ha s a ou now 3 . S t b i g t th t y k rou our s ud es are the mos ecom n to he r e Be th gh y t i t b i g typ . h n h n sk n de t e s s e es u D o ot a ue s s. gu i d by hi t giv yo . q ti o Tr et he r o n on no t mak he r re w D to t o e a e ou. o y g pi i , g ith y not ar ue g .

’ k n n h k f h r s nd don . a e a s e d s es out o e a 4 T ythi g i li ight , t r n r a k n she e s no The try to p e ss o he wh t you li e a d do t. h h ﬁna ec e u n the e e r Elimi ew er a s s e as to d d o . f h t lly i p , b tt na e he s e n ne t t le s b comi g o s .

C ose the sa e easan see a she is not de a e d 5 . l l pl tly , th t l y n n n e ssar Be sure ake he nam and addre ss lo ger tha ec y . to t r e cor rec n e he r to re u rn a nd su es some n w c tly , i vit t , gg t thi g hi h is n sa in ano er a r f the s or D o not ea e he r o l e th p t o t e . l v unoccu ed is nece ssar f or her to w a f o r c eck pi i f it y it h , c an e or acka e but r n to her no ce some n o f h g , p g , b i g ti thi g n res D O n r h r n h a m e . ot ow e e S ow e a at i t t , h v , h y th t ight u se the sa e ou a e a read made p t l y h v l y .

I f you will check over your knowledge and abilitie s

s o s and ou can o s a o by the e utline , i f y h ne tly gr de y ur

s On a o ou ma o s o s an elf well e ch p int , y y c n ider y ur el f fﬁ sa s o a and o as sa s an e cient le w m n , y ur incre ing le d

ar o i sal y will pr ve t. Chapter XVII

HAT - MAKING AT HOME

T h e E co nomy and P l easur e o f Making H at s

An additi onal few points will be useful to those who

s t i wi h o trim their hat s at h ome . There s much to be said f o r making hats at home whether o r not one does as a ma f O ne can sa o a it tter o economy . ve fr m h lf to

all the cost o f a new ready - trimmed hat by u sing Old

a a s and s u or a a s on m teri l fre hening them p, new m teri l

a s as a s . a w o s h nd , uch remn nt , etc The cre tive rk it elf

is a a s a ple sure to most w omen . Girl h ve been heard “ ’ ” to sa a a a hat t a eat S o s y, I d r ther m ke h n metime a club o f girls can get together to make their ow n

a s a a f or to as at o h t , h ving buyer the club purch e wh le

sa a s sum o o f and as le r te . The t tal their experience t te

produces lovely hats . The individual not o nly can save greatly by making

ow n a s can a a o a c her h t , but h ve m ny m re , m t h them

o s and a to a o better with her cl the , le rn m ke them m re becoming and better suited to her than the hats She

M o w o one s s on might chance to buy . any pe ple h m ee

s are a co a s or at as the treet we ring unbe ming h t , le t ,

those that are not the m ost becoming . S ome get so

1 69 1 70 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

of oo a r ss s tired l king th t they buy eckle ly, ome are o s a e sa s o a and so a n verper u d d by the le w m n , me h ve ot a a as cultiv ted t te . I f a w oman is able to alter the hats she buys and a a to own s ssa sh n d pt them her tyle when nece ry, e ca a o a and o . too m ke them m re individu l bec ming Then , a winter hat o f goo d style can be turned into asum

one and sa . P a s a mer , vice ver erh p the ch nge made

o s a o o r s o r a by c vering the tr w cr wn with velvet ilk , different trimming will do the tri ck . From every point o f view it is advi sable f or one to learn how to make hat s

O bserv ati on the Firs t E ssenti al

s s a a hat at o one o s The ﬁr t tep in m king h me , i f d e not ow a how one s s to a is to kn ex ctly wi he m ke it , “ ” leave h ome and g o window shopping and al so to

o o a s s l ok thr ugh the millinery dep rtment in the tore s . It is well to do thi s in o rder to be strictly up to date and to s a n o at tudy the det il i v gue the time , even though one does have in mind before starting an image

a a s s w a o f the re sult desired . F shi on v rie ome h t from year to year even in the matter o f putting a hat to

an o s a so ma a all o f gether , but b erv nt per n y le rn

’ oo at a s is t fashi on s changes . In l king h t it well o know and apply the principle s contained in the chapters on color and form .

1 7 2 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

is too a use o f a a or a a l rge , by the little p dding b ndeau can a f it be m de to ﬁt . The covering o a frame has

to a s a n o as o s ow s so be p in t ki gly d ne , n thing h up much

as o r is a o uneven w rk o r ough edges . It go d rule m to a s c s o o . never let tit h h w , except in e br idery A

o s o is s s o oa s l ng tr ng needle be t , with tr ng c r e linen

f r f U ss o s is thread o most o the w ork . nle the go d l s oo s o ss o a . O d quite m th , it h uld be pre ed bef reh nd

a X velvet can be steamed as directed in Ch pter V.

Th e Trimming

Pin on s a the trimming ﬁr t , putting everything in pl ce ,

hat on and a m a o to then try the , ch nge the tri ming b ut

P a s so ﬁnd the most becoming eff ect . erh p me trimming will have to be di scarded o r changed f or something

os is to el se . Try it with the c tume with which it be

w orn .

Th e Lining

H n r at s ca o o a . o lining be b ught , in white bl ck H me made linings can be cut on the pattern o f any old

- h ﬁttin and can a to a at. well g lining, be m de m tch the

o is a s a ma I f the cr wn tr n p rent , the lining y be left

out or a o o can s as a n , c l red lining be u ed trimmi g

f r h o the at.

Club s f or H at- Making It is nice f or a club o f g irls to buy one o f the HAT- MAKING AT HOME 1 73 inexpensive little embroidering machines which are now

s so . e do o a . exten ively ld Th y ne t , quick w rk A club can al so buy braids in large amount s very much cheaper a at a th n ret il .

Col ored H at s

one s s to a a hat to a a Cos I f wi he h ve m tch tume ,

is to use o s o f it pretty left ver piece the gown . A summer hat can combine the material s o f several

ss s a n to o o and so s dre e , i f they h ppe g t gether , be uit a to al f is t a ble wear with l o them . It well o h ve a ’ b a hat a a s o s a o as o s l ck lw y in ne w rdr be , it g e with everything . Hat dyes are good but are very apt to Shrink the

a o f a or o is a on the a hat. I f piece p per cl th l id he d o f a s and hat on the we rer ﬁr t , then the wet put , the

not o off on a hat to dye will c me the h ir , the will dry

a a and not . s ﬁt the he d ex ctly, will Shrink It drie

Ha s a s a 2 0 or 0 s . t r pidly, in 3 minute hell c will fre hen ’ M s is s f or so s up old straw s . illiner glue u eful me kind

o f r a a so o s not a . t imming, but the ver ge per n d e h ve it

Reb l ocking

Reblocking o f hats that have lost their shape or need to be changed somewhat is done at many little ha a s o s so a o s s o t rep ir h p , but me dventur u girl rebl ck 174 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

their ow n hats by ﬁtting them wet over a bowl and

ﬂatir ns u sing o to hold them down .

Mag az ine H elps There are several millinery magazines as well as

s o s Vo ne Ladies H om Journal anit e V ecti n in g , the , y ’ F air W oman s H ome C om anion and o s , p , ther , which

h - Ma ma to at a . o to y be helpful the m ker ny pe ple,

o a s o f a ss are o wh m the intric cie ﬁtting dre unkn wn ,

an ow n a s and is not at all o to c trim their h t , it b ld attempt it with the hints that have been given in thi s b ook .

1 76 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

K alasio Bunta l Pandan ! b) Felt W ool Fur Cotton ! c ) Fabri cs Velvet ’ H atter s Plush Velour Chenille S ilk S ati n Chiff on Net Tulle Maline Lace Geo rgette Crepe Linen ! d) Fur S eal Raccoon Mink Beaver S quirrel ! e) Mi scellaneou s Angora Bra id Horsehair Braid Pyroxylin Braid 2 S a s . h pe Rolled brim S traight brim CLASSIFICATION OF STOCK I 77

S ailo r Mu shroom Tricorn Turban Toque P icture hats Gainsbo ro Co o s 3 . l r All UNTRI M M ED HATS Ma a s S ha s Co o s teri l , pe , l r much trimmed hats TRI M M I N GS 1 a n P a . Fe thers a d lum ge ! a ) Kinds O stri ch Vulture Pa radi se Numadie Gourah Hero n Egret Peacock Pheasant Parrot Guinea - fowl Pigeon Goo se Duck Tu rkey B arnya rd Fowl S pani sh Coq Burnt Goose Marabo u MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

Breasts Pads B ands Pompons Q uill s Plumes Tips ! c ) Col o rs Natural Dyed Bleached

2 o s and o a . Fl wer F li ge

! a ) Kinds. Il oses Field Flow ers Appliqué Fl owers Vi olets S mall Flow ers O dd Flowers Rare Flow ers Natural Flowers Fo li age Fruits ! b) Materi als S ilk S atin Velvet Velveteen Muslin Tinsel ClotH

1 80 MILLINERY DEPARTMENT

Beads W o rsted Chenille Embroidery B ands Motifs Emblems Painting Materi als Jet S teel Rhinestones Mother - o i — pearl Gl ass Braid S ilver Gilt Net Maline Velvet W orsted Lac 5 . e W ORK ROOM I S upplies W illow Buckram W i re Needles Thread Linings Appendix

BOOK S F OR REFERE N CE

’ The VOtld s Commerc a roduc s r man C and r . V i l P t , F ee h le

G1nn.

ex es oo man nd o n a m an. a Mc a . c T til , W l G w M ill

e er and C o n nne oo e acm an. Sh lt l thi g, Ki C l y . M ill o r a mon in McBride as C o re s ds . s G . u l H r y D , A . A ley , N t CO .

The r nc es o f armon nd n ras of Co or . P i ipl H y a Co t t l , M n d n C reu . e o s on o . hev l G. B ll S ! L )

an n Pelle Br e as O . es d e . M id C C . w . c Dy Dy i g, E , N t n r Milli e y Trade Revi ew . x r Te tile W orld Reco d.

D ry Goods E conomist . er and ed rades Modern Drap y Alli T .

1 84 INDEX

CoLORs — ontinued C OF — Continued C FA ES , TYPES r mar 1 1 2 1 1 t n 1 p i y , , 3 hi , 4 7 ro e rt es 1 2 0 2 p p i , FEATHERS , 7 reﬂ e t ons 1 1 6 r of ara se 8 c i , bi d p di , 7 3 , 7 4 , 4 ret r n 1 1 e re t or a r i i g , 3 g ig et. 7 3 . 7 4 . 83 S a es 1 2 1 ow 8 1 c l , f l . 7 4 , se on ar 1 1 1 1 oura 8 c d y , 3 , 4 g h . 7 3 . 7 4 . 4

s e trum 1 1 1 u nea - o 8 1 p c , g i f wl , 7 4 , stan ar 1 1 2 a s f or onser at on of r s 2 d d , l w c v i bi d , 7 tert ar 1 1 st i y , 5 li . 7 4 tra n n o or sense 1 26 1 2 num a die 8 i i g c l , , 7 , 7 3 , 7 4 , 4 un er a rt ﬁ a t 1 2 ostr See a so Ostr d i ci l ligh , 3 ich , 7 3 ! l ich ” a ues 1 2 0 eat ers v l , f h )

wa rm 1 1 5 arrot 7 , 8 1 , p , 4 C O 8 2 ea o a nd easant 8 0 Q OR COQ UE FEATHER , p c ck ph , 7 4 , eon 4 8 1 pig , 7 , u me s pl , 7 7 an s c o and a e 8 2 Sp i h q h ckl , 7 4 , See a so a es e o e trea tm ent of DEPARTMENT ! l S l p pl . , 7 3 su est ons u ture gg i v l , 7 4 , 7 9

atmos ere , 2 wild u 4 8 1 ph d ck , 7 , e nera m ress on I g l i p i , FELT , an 1 arr ot n pl , c i g , 54 sto arra n e ment 2 - armeuse 6 1 ck g , 7 ch , 8 1 eans n the f ur DOMESTIC FOWLS , cl i g , 5 5 H 1 r n a nd u tt n DOUBLE ATS , 4 d yi g c i g , 54 C See eat ers ra es 60 DU K . WILD ! F h g d , ats h , ente rs Of n ustr 6 2 c i d y , e n 8 dy i g , 5 E E See eat ers ﬁ n s n ro ess GR T ! F h i hi g p c , 59 orm n 6 f i g , 5

hi stor y , 6 1

s z n i i g , 5 7 st ff en n 5 9 FABRIC HATS , i i g ,

ont ne 68 stret i n , 5 9 p i , ch g s and sa t n 66 m x n the f ur ilk i , i i g , 5 5 ar ous mater a s 6 r o ess of m anuf a ture v i i l . 7 p c c , 5 3 e et 6 s ort n and ra n f ur and oo v lv , 3 i g g di g w l , 5 5

1 s our es , 5 3 FACES , TYPES OF , 44 c an ular 1 as in the s ns g , 4 9 w h g ki , 5 4 ﬂ at eatures 1 F 5 7 f , 4 5 ELTING PROCESS , r ou n 1 F E LTI NC F d , 4 5 PROPERTIES O WOOL AND

s nu nose s 1 , 5 2 b , 4 7 FUR INDEX 1 85

“ 1 H A T Se e traw traw FLORENTINA STRAW , 7 STRAW ! S , S ” F H 6 ra s FLOSS , OSTRICH EAT ERS , 7 b id ) F HA T LOWERS , TRIMMINGS . a u é 0 an s 9 ppliq , 9 b d , 7 e n 86 e m r o er and a nt n 8 dy i g , b id y p i i g , 9 fi e 8 eat ers 2 ld , 9 f h , 7 ofi ere d 8 fl o e rs 8 g , 7 w , 5 m anu a tur n 8 orna ments 8 f c i g , 7 , 9 m ater a s 6 ar et es 0 i l , 8 v i i , 7 m s e aneous 1 Se e a so na me s of ats i c ll , 9 HATS ! l h ) natura r oos n of Se e o e o f ats l , o ch i g ! Ch ic h r are r res en n and ean n 1 , o f h i g cl i g , 5 7 r oses 8 n n s 1 6 , 8 5 , 8 , 89 li i g , 5 “ s - u s 8 2 2 See a so tra tra lip p , 7 HEMP , ! l S w , S w " sm a 8 8 0 ra s ll , 5 , 9 , 9 b id ) s our es of m anu a ture 8 ats 2 c f c , 5 h , 3 st en n and ul n out 8 6 m tat on 2 6 iff i g c li g , i i i , o ets 8 8 8 i an 2 vi l , 5 , M l , 5 F O LI AO E 1 ea n n ustr 2 , 9 w vi g i d y , 3 O See anama ats 8 FORM SA HATS ! P h HERON , 3 2 0 FRUITS , 9 HORSEHAIR 3 6 See o ors FUR HATS , 9 HUES ! C l F UR T RIMMINGS , 99 I

‘ I TALIAN STRAW ! See j Stra Z tra ra s E 8 S w b id GOFFERED FLOW RS , 7 1 1 6 GRAY , K 1 2 1 GRAYING COLORS , 1 1 — 1 1 1 1 GREEN , 3 5 , 3 K A LAS I O HATS , 43 GUI NE A FOWL ! See F ea thers L

See tra LACE TUSCAN ! S w , F 8 2 " A ATH S , H CKLE E ER brai ds ) H - H 2 AND MADE ATS , 3 1 6 LEGHORN HATS , HAT FACTORIES , LE OHORN 1 PLAITING , 7 ff erent n s di ki d , 4 7 E E 1 LIS R STRAW , 9 o a t on 6 l c i , 4 V 6 LYONS VEL ET , 4 HAT FRAMES , u ram or o 1 b ck will w , 53 M

measurements , 1 53

- re , 1 5 S Wi 4 MACHINE MADE HAT , L N ock n o HAT MATERIA S , MI OR , 44 bl i g . s 1 86 INDEX

— MACHINE - MADE HA rs Continu ed ﬁ n s n 1 i hi g , 5 se e ra s 1 1 w d b id , 5 PAGLIA STRAW , 7 sew n ra H 2 i g b id , 4 9 PANAMA ATS , 3 s z n 0 o n 1 i i g , 5 bl cki g , 5 1 5 2 E ast I n an ats MAKING AND TRIMMING HATS , di h , 44

at ome 1 6 - 1 ﬁ n s n 6 h , 9 7 4 i hi g , 3 o s 1 5 at er n the raw m ater a b w , 5 g h i g i l , 3 4 n n s 1 6 m tat ons li i g , 5 i i i , m et o of a ﬁix in tr mm n s 1 6 a damb a h d g i i g , 5 , 3 3 , 3 7 A ND 6 ormosa 8 MALE FEMALE FEATHERS , 7 F , 3 3 , 3 2 2 2 to o 8 MANILA HEMP , , 4 y , 3 3 , 3 1 1 6 o at on of n u str MAROON , l c i i d y , 3 3 " “ S ee tra tr a m et o or ean n 6 MILAN BRAID ! S w , S w h d cl i g , 3 ” ra s a t n b id ) pl i i g , 3 5 H 2 r o ess of m a n MILAN EMP , 5 p c ki g , 3 5

- tests f or ua t MONO CHROMATIC COLOR HARMONY , q li y , 3 7 1 2 2 tou en n and ea n gh i g bl chi g , 3 4 1 MOUNTAIN LEGHORN , 7 PANDAN HATS , 4 4 H 6 See eat ers MOURNING ATS , 7 PARADISE , BIRD OF ! F h ” PARROT ! S ee Fea ther s ) 1 8 PATENT MILAN STRAW , ” PEACOCK ! Se e Feathers ) 1 8 PEDAL B AID , N 1 R EUT AL COLO S , 3 5 R R 1 PEDAL LE HO N , 7 NOS TRA LE 1 G R STRAW , 7 “ PHEASANT ! Se e Feathers I 2 PH LIPPINE FACTORIES , 5 8 PHILIPPINE HATS , VARIETIES , 3 , 4 5 PIGEON ! S ee Fe athers

V 1 1 , 63 OLI E , 5 PILE FABRICS , MANUFACTURE OF “ 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 6 Se e a so 1 eat ers ORANGE , 3 , 4 , 5 , 3 PLUMES , 7 ! l F h , “ ” str eat ers OSTRICH FARMS , 7 5 O ich f h ) w o OSTRICH FEATHERS , 7 3 ill w , 7 7 a es 8 68 bl ck dy , 7 PONTINE FABRIC , ea e 6 1 1 2 bl ch d , 7 PRIMARY COLORS , o oze 6 X 0 b , 7 PYRO YLIN , 3 x b y a , 7 6 s 6 chick , 7 e n dy i g . 7 7 ﬂ oss 6 2 8 , 7 RAMIE STRAW , orm s 6 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 f , 7 RED , , 3 , 5 , 9 on 6 l g , 7 RIBBONS , m a e a nd ema e 6 re 6 l f l , 7 ci , 9 s a e 6 atterns 9 p d , 7 p , 5

1 88 INDEX

V — Continued STYLE , VEL ET an es 1 05 m anu a ture of 6 ch g , f c , 3

e em ent in m ner y , 1 05 r ons 9 l illi ibb , 5 h ow nﬂ uen e 1 u se in ats 6 i c d , 7 h , 3 2 1 wa s to eter m ne ua t SWISS BRAIDS , y d i q li y , L N 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 SWISS MI A HEMP , VIOLET , 3 , 4 , 5 , 3 3 “ " VIOLETS ! Se e Flowers ) T VULTURE WINGS . 7 9

TABLES , s to 2 ck , tr n on yi g , 4 1 1 WA M COLO S , 5 2 2 R R TAGAL BRAIDS , 66 See WEI HTED SILK , ! 1 1 G TERTIARY COLORS , 5 " M anual ) TO O AT ! Se e Pa nam a ats G H S h 8 " WENCHOW HATS , 3 TRIMMINGS ! See Hat tr imming ) WI OW P S , 7 7 A 8 1 LL LUME TURKEY PLUM GE , “ W OOL ! Se e Felting T C N 1 1 6 US A BRAID , 5 , WORKROOMS , 7 V

VELVET ! See also Silk M anual ats ma nu a ture of 6 YE DDA 2 8 h , f c , 5 STRAW , ons 6 Y 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 6 Ly , 4 ELLOW , , 3 , 5 , 3 , 3