MAGAZINE OF THE CONFEDERATION OF BUSHWALKING CLUBS NSW INC. ISSN 0313 2684 AUTUMN ISSUE - FEBRUARY 2000 VOLUME 25 NO 3 www.bushwalking.org.au W ALKING ACROSS THE BLUE M OUNTAINS-REVISITED Tony Miller walk you do, our club would be pleased eaders may remember an Scripture Union Bushwalking Club to hear from you if you are interested Rarticle in “The Bushwalker” in doing this or a similar traverse. in May 1996 about the L APSTONE TO GLENBROOK Scripture Union Bushwalkers’ proposal for investigation of the feasibility of a VIA GLENBROOK GORGE continuous “Blue Mountains Crossing Starting from Lapstone Station you can take the unconstructed track along the Nepean River to Glenbrook Creek and rock hop along Glenbrook Gorge. On a hot day you could enjoy a swim at Jellybean Pool or Blue Pool. This one is not a rainy weather walk. has happened. For example, a “Blue G LENBROOK TO BLAXLAND Mountains Walking Track Heritage INC LAPSTONE ZIG ZIG Study” was released in November The Lapstone Zig Zag is the route 1998. The aim of that study was to of a former section of railway line. “identify the significant cultural Visit historic Knapsack Gully Viaduct heritage aspects of the walking tracks (built 1864), Lennox Bridge (built in in the Blue Mountains region and 1833 and used until 1970) and enjoy recommend how that significance can fine view of Cumberland Plain from be maintained”. The study covers over Elizabeth Lookout. Later you pass three hundred constructed walking Glenbrook Lagoon, which I under- tracks more than 25 years old. The stand was seen by Blaxland, Lawson consultants Jim Smith and and Wentworth on 12 May 1813. There MUSEscape did a great job and the is some suburban walking to finish the NPWS launch at the Hydro Majestic day. was a pleasure to attend. The possibil- B LAXLAND TO WOODFORD ity of including a Blue Mountains VIA ST HELENA RIDGE crossing in the establishment of a This is a leg-stretcher and for national network of tracks gets a Waterfall - North Hazelbrook experienced walkers only. After taking supporting mention in the vision the track from the southern end of statement to the MUSEcape volume Walk”. Ross St to Glenbrook Creek, we of the Report. followed the “Bull Ant Track” up to Through Confederation the pro- Scripture Union “Bushies” have posal was discussed with representa- and along the ridge on the northern now walked across the Blue Mountains side of St Helena Gully (you might tives of a number of the land managers twice, once via a series of day walks and Hon Bob Debus MP, Member for meet the Bull Ant Runners, a local and later in a series of three overnight running club). On reaching Bunyan fire Blue Mountains. All indicated that and two day walks. The latter perhaps they thought the concept was worth trail we turned south then took St involved more uninterrupted bushland, Helena and Oaks fire trails to looking at further. However, with lots and maybe more on that in the future. happening since including the draft Woodford. I’ve yet to see the “Bull Ant For now, here are some thoughts on Track” on any map, so if you don’t Blue Mountains NP draft plan of one possibility for day walkers to management, Grose Wilderness know anyone who is familiar with the consider for crossing the Mountains. track, consider walking from assessment and the Blue Mountains This is not a walk guide, so you would World Heritage nomination, I guess the Glenbrook to Woodford instead need to obtain appropriate maps, make (especially leg stretching!). That route concept has had to take a back seat, enquiries, be suitably equipped and perhaps awaiting consideration in a is via Duck Hole track, Duck Hole link experienced and “tread lightly”(in a to St Helena Ridge then St Helena and broader context. group, preferably with a club). While This is certainly not to say nothing Oaks Fire trails. Keep and eye and ear you take responsibility for any such out for mountain-bike riders. Continued on page 5 ...... Walk Safely - Walk With a Club ...... C OMMITTEE MEMBERS THE BUSHWALKER Contributions, letters to the editor, President - Jim Callaway (02) Mount Druitt Bushwalking Club original cartoons and suggestions are 9520-7081 (H) (02) 9219-4379 (W) [email protected] welcome. They should be sent to the The Sydney Bush Walkers Conservation Officer - John address below. Except for short notes Vice President - Alex Tucker Macris (02) 9526-7363 (H) Na- or letters, all contributions should be (02) 94514028 National Parks tional Parks Association accompanied with text file on three and Association [email protected] a half inch floppy disk in IBM format [email protected] Tracks and Access officer - or E-Mail. Advertising rates are available on Treasurer - Maurice Smith (02) Alex Tucker (02) 9451-4028 9587-6325 Sutherland Bushwalking request. Contact Richard Merry at National Parks Association [email protected] Club [email protected] [email protected] Distribution is through affiliated Secretary - Prudence Tucker Magazine Editor & Communi- clubs, major retail outlets, council (02)9451-4028 cations Officer information centres and national park [email protected] Colin Wood, Tel (02)4625-0916 H offices. National Parks Association 04148814301 Bankstown Address all correspondence to The Insurance Office and member- Bushwalking Club. Editor, The Bushwalker Bushwalkers ship secretary - Anne Plowman [email protected] NSW PO Box 2090 GPO Sydney 1043. (02)9747-1346 Training officer - Peter Mullens E-mail [email protected] The Confederation of Bushwalking [email protected] [email protected] Bushwalkers Wilderness Rescue Clubs NSW Inc represents approxi- mately 67clubs with a total membership officer - Keith Maxwell (02) 9622- over 10,000 bushwalkers. Formed in 0049 Pager 016020 #277321 1932, the Confederation provides a 2 2 united voice on conservation and other issues, runs training courses for mem- I N THIS ISSUE bers, and provides for the public a free wilderness search and rescue service. Walking across the Blue Mountains – Revisited 1 People interested in joining a bushwalking club are invited to write to the Secretary Bushwalkers NSW at

The Bushwalker Walking in The Tiger Leaping Gorge .3 the above address for information on clubs in their area. Letters to the Editor .. 7 Or web site www.bushwalking.org.au Along The Track Access to Bonnum Pic 8 Prices for advertising Back cover $450 - full page inside “Is The Coffee Filtered?” .. .11 back cover $400 - full page inside $350 - half page $175 - quarter page $90 business card size $50 insert $250 Bushwalkers Wilderness Rescue Exercise: .. . ..12 +insertion cost approx $90. Deadlines for magazine Book Review .. .12 Summer edition, 2nd week in October- Autumn 2nd week in January Heavy Metal “Garbage” .12 - Winter, 2nd week in April - Spring, 2nd week in July Abseiling at MountPortal . .13 T HEB USHWALKER What’s in the vaults? - is the magazine of the Confed- eration of Bushwalking Clubs reconstructing a picture of past environments ...... 14 NSW Inc. It's published quarterly. The aim of the magazine is to Callendar of Events 16 provide articles and information of interest to the members of clubs affiliated with the Confederation Capertee a Poem By D Lawry ..18 and Bushwalkers generally. Any opinions expressed by individual Book review 18 authors do not always represent the official views of the Confederation. Walk Safely - Walk With a Club...... W ALKING IN THE TIGER LEAPING GORGE In YUNNAN PROVINCE, CHINA October I Marjory Kirk reached the village of HaBa and our was part of WEA Ramblers guest house. Chinese style buildings own language and picture writing - quite a group of round a court yard, outbuildings round different from Chinese. Intrepid two sides with grain, animals and so on. The next morning we were up early Walkers who Basins of hot water were provided for us to start the first day of our walk. Unfor- tackled The to wash in our rooms. The toilet had the tunately I had not been well in the night, Tiger Leaping usual view over a cliff, but the beds were and was suffering from the dreaded Gorge (approx. warm and comfortable with a cotton stomach problems to which visitors are 40K) in the upper doona for covering. Our hostess and subject in that part of the world, but reaches of the Yangtze River, Yunnan. helpers provided a delicious meal for the there was no option but to put my ‘best Our walk started from a tiny village party, but I just kept to rice. I shared a foot forward’ and carry on. We were a called Bai Shui Tai which was reached downstairs room with our guides in party of 15 in all, including our leader, by a 5 hour bus ride from the city of preference to an upstairs room with the Naxi guide Sean and his Australian Zhongdian - a high cold city in the other members of our party. Chinese wife Margot, so a small horse and driver mountains. The bus ride was very homes have two storeys, and most have was hired to carry our water and other scenic, through quite amazing mountain folding doors opening to the courtyard. supplies for the day’s Up early again next morning, and a trek.I was thankful that breakfast of very tasty noodles was my pack could go on provided. Our guides had located a the little horse too. truck going part of the way to their Our course was guest house at Walnut Garden, which along the main road at was to be our next destination, and for a first, then down steeply fee of 100 Yuan, about $20, the driver into the valley through 3

agreed to take Margot and I, and also Bushwalker The a quaint little village, some of luggage, on to the guest house winding our way down in the Tiger Leaping Gorge. In my a muddy track through rather weakened state I was happy to the higgledy- piggledy houses and outbuildings. It was harvest time, and cobs of Author with Naxi guide “Very Nice” bridge in background Indian corn were drying every- areas, with the occasional village in where, on roofs, courtyards, rocks - valleys below, and road workers camps anywhere that presented a dry airy along the sides of the road here and surface. Through fields, along there. Some incredible roads have been terrace walls, up a fir-clad mountain blasted into and over the mountains side, and eventually back onto the during recent years, connecting popu- road again, where we had a lunch lated and previously isolated valleys, break. Not feeling too good, my and providing access to the outside lunch was a couple of bananas, world. Landslides and fallen rocks are a while the rest of the party tucked constant hazard, particularly during the into rolls, with all sorts of fillings, wet summer season, and the biscuits etc. provided by Margot. roadmenders must be kept pretty busy Sheer determination carried me on. with repairs. One camp even had a A pass high on the mountains in Tibetan yurt with a Lama in residence. front of us was pointed out. Just up About lunch time we arrived at our to there, then we begin the descent. destination, a very basic guest house in All this time we had been at an a small village. A hot lunch of noodles altitude of about 3,5OOm. The and vegetables was brought to us in the descent started well enough, but got outside eating area, and the afternoon steeper as we continued, down to was occupied by a tour up the hillside the valley. No good for one suffer- opposite to visit the limestone terraces, ing vertigo, we had been warned ! Yannan Mountain - taken at about 3500m which are a famous feature of the The last part of the descent was across a landslide of white limestone region. Semicircular basins of gleaming accept this arrangement, and the early chips, with just about enough room for white limestone terraces marching down arrival at Walnut Garden would enable to the base of the mountain. The area is a booted foot on the track. No hand Margot to get the evening meal prepared the home of the Naxi minority people, holds and a very slippery slide down for the rest of the party. I climbed in and the Dongba culture, who have their down down - just don’t look! At last we Continued on page 4 ...... Walk Safely - Walk With a Club ...... from page 3 houses, built on a little ledge hacked out was left of the road, and rocks were front with the driver, the passenger with of the mountainside. Water is provided falling on the other side. We retraced our his little son, and Margot got on the back by a clear natural spring, from which the steps back past the Spring Guest House, with the luggage. Up and along moun- guest house takes its name. Cooking and continued down the Gorge in the tain roads, wonderful views and amazing facilities are in an outhouse, on a primi- opposite direction. Rain was still falling, terrain. We let the passenger down at the tive woodburning range, and a two there were rock falls along the road, bits end of a very rough track where he was burner gas cooker. No daylight except had subsided from the edges, far down to catch a ferry (more of this later) Then through the open door, but there is into the Gorge, and there was the ever through a huge half finished housing power for a while at night for the one present danger of falling rocks. After estate, which Margot said had been at a longlife bulb hanging from the rafters. about 12k we left the road and scrambled standstill for about 2 years. Right in the The group arrived mid-afternoon, hot up a steep hillside track, over a stream middle of no-where, very poor soil, bleak and tired after about 18k through the which operated a water-driven threshing and unproductive looking. Hundreds of mountains. Showered machine, and shortly found ourselves and refreshed, they among the unfinished houses, and down enjoyed a wonderful the rough track as far as the truck had evening meal, and gone 2 days before. Now began our settled down in the descent to the Yangtze River ferry. The outdoor eating area track zig-zagged steeply down on and to watch the news by on, and the last stretch above the swift satellite and later a flowing river was a little ledge hacked video film. It was out of the rock cliff, just enough room quite a strange for one boot at a time. At the bottom experience to watch waited the ferry barge. The boatmen TV in such a remote were very skilled in handling their craft, place. Technology in which they took upstream, and let the China is advancing current bring them back down, to the

4 so quickly that nearly 4 landing place. Again, another steep every village has its Typical Naxi village. The people do not like being photographed, hence man scramble up the high banks, till the level satellite dish al- dissappearing round corner fields were reached. We teetered along though household the banks of paddyfields, slithered much needed houses standing there like water is still carried from the streams. through the mud, watched by the sad ghosts, but it would be hard to Next day was a day of rest, which we occasional placid buffalo. Eventually we persuade people to settle there. Maybe were all glad to enjoy One or two reached a small poor village, where we some Chinese speculator was loosing a energetic members made the long steep The Bushwalker were to get a bus. Our guide sent some- lot of money? Hard to say. Then back on descent to the Yangtze River, and got one to make a phone call, and we were the new mountain road to Walnut back just as a violent thunder storm told our bus would come for us ‘in a few Garden. Up until a couple of years ago echoed through the mountains. Torren- minutes’, from the nearby town of naji. the only access to Tiger Leaping Gorge tial rains cascaded down the slopes on Meantime the local children and was a bridle track over the mountains the other side of the Gorge, and we several men regarded us with much and through the Gorge. Now the new could see rocks falling. amusement and teasing. We were invited road, blasted into the hillsides, provides Next morning we were due to walk to wait in the warmth of the shop’ access for vehicles able to brave the the last 23+k out of the Gorge to Qaitou courtyard, where a type of council rough conditions. I helped Margot and where our main baggage had been meeting was going on. We understood it two young girls with lunch preparations, stored, but at 6.00am we rose to pouring concerned celebrations for the millen- had a HOT shower, and my clothes went rain and darkness. Early breakfast, and nium, and there was much heated into the washing machine - unheard of off we set along the road. Reaching a argument. luxuries in such a remote spot. waterfall about 3k along, we found it Our bus duly arrived, and we thank- The guest house is about 13 years old, impassable. Water cascading down the fully piled on, wet and tired. We could and consists of two typical Chinese mountain side had washed away what look up the Gorge and see the mist and rain shrouding the mountains where we had walked. The bus journey to LiJiang was 3 hours of mountain road, almost nil visibility, fog and rain - so rough that the back of the bus became airborne on a couple of occasions - but we slept peacefully through the journey, blissfully unaware of cascading waterfalls, rock falls, passing other buses etc.etc. We had walked in the Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Spring Guest House - Walnut Garden. House facing T L Gorge, Yantze River is way, way down. Walk Safely - Walk With a Club......

from page 1 ...... initially steeply, to another fire trail. It’s E CHO POINT-EXPLORERS’ W OODFORD - HAZELBROOK not hard to get from there to Kent St T REE VIA WATERFALLS OF NORTH although I think some sections of the This presents an option for more fine H AZELBROOK fire trail in this vicinity run through clifftop walking, taking in part of the Have some fun guessing the height private property. A formalised route Prince Henry Walk, Katoomba Falls of the many waterfalls you will encoun- through Lanasa Park from North Reserve, the grounds of the scenic ter along the way. This walk includes the Lawson Park to Kent St (avoiding railway, Cahills Lookout and the track ‘Transit of Venus’ Track, Three Water- private property) would be a help. from the western end of Stuarts Rd to falls Track (Mabel, Edith and Fairy The section of Bruces Walk from Nellies Glen Rd. The last of these tracks Falls) and later the fairly eroded track Kent St to Frenchmans Rd is well is very well located and constructed and from Winbourne Ave to Burgess Falls, mapped in Jim Smith’s “How to See the offers scenic opportunities ranging from Horseshoe Falls and Lyre Bird Glen Blue Mountains” (2nd ed.) and is valley views to ferny gullies. As it is a Falls. We connected the two sections by marked with white tags on trees. How- constructed track, I’m surprised not to basically following the powerlines ever, the track is narrow, unmaintained have found it on a map yet. between Clearview Pde and Winbourne and features umteen zig zags and more If you don’t want to stay on the Ave. Some local people indicated this than the occasional fallen tree. After the ridge, fit and experienced walkers could was OK. There is a dogleg in the track section of Bruces Walk we headed venture down the Devil’s Hole Track on the Winbourne Ave side so be careful along Railway Pde, but did the side trip and proceed to Explorers Tree via not to end up in someone’s back yard. to Water Nymphs Dell – an underrated Nellies Glen. This is strenuous but To be sure, you could perhaps check gem in my view featuring a cool mossy rewarding. It also includes part of the with the council regarding land owner- amphitheatre with a couple of delightful famous Six Foot Track. ship under the powerlines at that road. waterfalls. E XPLORERS TREE - W ENTWORTH FALLS TO M EDLOW BATH L EURA This is getting into The private property between Pulpit “bushwalking traffic” but Hill Rd and Delmonte Rd, Medlow

what views (eg Jamison Bath presents a problem. We found a 5 The Bushwalker The Valley, Kings Tableland). We “walkers only” sign at the end of Pulpit followed Darwin’s Walk (he Hill Rd but there is only an “out and was there in 1836), the back” walk via a series of unmapped Undercliff/Overcliff Track fire trails and tracks. We eventually and later stopped for a break reached a rock cairn where the track and a drink at the “Conserva- ended. If you walk along the side of the tion Hut” off the western end highway from Pulpit Hill, keeping any of Fletcher St. Next came the guardrail between you and the traffic, you will eventually get to Medlow Bath, Field of Ferns - Lindeman Pass track across Lillians Bridge, the new section of the Grand although it is not particularly pleasant Clifftop Walk behind the Fairmont going. H AZELBROOK-LAWSON VIA Resort and, after a little road walking, At Medlow Bath things improve. WATERFALLS OF STH the tracks to the Pool of Siloam and From Bellevue Cres you can walk down H AZELBROOK & STH from there to Lyre Bird Dell to Three Brothers Rocks, then along the old Glen Rosa Track (not entirely easy L AWSON L EURA (LYREBIRD DELL to follow), past the Colosseum and Many people are familiar with the TRACKHEAD)-ECHO POINT around the recently re-cleared clifftop waterfalls of South Lawson, but have Even more “traffic” here but track to the “Sunbath”. You finish at the you visited Bedford Pool, Terrace Falls Katoomba is rightly a place of national Hydro Majestic. Tell the staff there and Victor Falls south of Hazelbrook. and international renown. The excel- before you start this walk as it goes The track could do with a bit of a tidy- lently restored section of track from the across the Hydro’s land. up and signposting at trackheads, but clifftops down to Leura Forest is a credit An alternative is to walk from Echo this is a refreshing walk at any time of to NPWS. You might want to walk Point to North Katoomba and join up the year. In late winter/early spring along Federal Pass to the junction with with Bruces Walk to take you to maybe check first whether any control Dardanelles Pass then double back to Katoomba Airstrip. If you take this burning is scheduled. ascend the Giant Stairway past the option, which is suitable for experienced L AWSON-WENTWORTH Three Sisters to Echo Point. If the walkers, you could check out the Hydro F ALLS INC SECTION OF thought of possible crowds is a bit Majestic tracks on another day. B RUCES WALK much, and your group consists of M EDLOW BATH experienced walkers, consider walking Another one for experienced walk- B LACKHEATH VIA EVANS down Roberts Pass (Leura) and along ers. We started on the fire trail that runs L OOKOUT & GOVETTS LEAP west from the northern end of the picnic Lindeman Pass to join up with Federal Few bushwalkers would need to be area accessed from St Bernards Drive. Pass. You need to watch your footing told there are majestic views of the After a few hundred metres on the fire and the spider webs but this is a beauti- Grose Valley on offer between Evans trail a track leads steeply downhill to the ful walk with lush vegetation and Lookout and Govetts Leap. Our walk creek that runs through Walkers Glen. memorable cliff and valley views. had the added advantage of getting us The track crosses the creek and ascends, ...... Walk Safely - Walk With a Club ...... from the vicinity of Katoomba Airstrip Add views of the Kanimbla Valley provides you with plenty of history to down to the Grand Canyon via the to those already enjoyed of the Grose. think about as does Cox’s Road down “Old Point Pilcher” track retailer Mark Mt Boyce is a favourite with rock into the Valley. Lockyer’s Road/Track Foy had cut in 1907. This old con- climbers and this has resulted in a and Lawsons Long Alley are alternative structed track appears in pretty good couple of tracks off the railway access routes to the valley, further to the east. shape considering the passing of the road. A fairly large area of land along There is a camping area at Hartley Vale years. There is a bit of a rock ledge then the clifftops is now in public ownership. at the end of Lockyer’s track. a short steep section just before you Jim Smith’s book “How to See the Blue Are We There Yet? reach the floor of the canyon. We Mountains” is a help with this one. Well yes, actually. From Hartley Vale visited the NPWS’ Centre at Govetts When we reached a point below “Coni- you will need a car shuffle or strong legs Leap finished the day by travelling along cal Rock” we scrambled up from the for a return to Mt Victoria. However, a Popes Glen Track. This walk is fantastic footpad to the rock so as to avoid the final day walk from Hartley Vale to on a fine sunny day in Spring. western continuation of the clifftop pad Lithgow was fun for us, even though B LACKHEATH TO MT which went much too close to the edge walking along the side of The Gap Rd V ICTORIA VIA KANIMBLA for my liking. From Conical Rock we was a bit dicey. You could avoid this by E SCARPMENT (INCLUDING took another footpad (that is well away using a car shuffle and finishing your from the cliffs) west a short distance to a M T BOYCE) trip by walking from the top of Hassans formed walking track that runs Walls (where there are some great views straight back up to the railway of Hartley Valley) to Lithgow via access road. Bracey Lookout. You can now get down A side trip to Fairy Bower the hill to the town via a set of steps that or Cox’s Cave and then Mt run from the water reservoir below the Piddington and One Tree Hill lookout to Bridge St. (1,111m above sea level and There is certainly more than one way the highest point in Blue to walk across the Blue Mountains, but Mountains LGA) is a good maybe these ideas from our club will

6 way to end this walk. The 6 whet you appetite. It was a bit of a Join one of our treks across the Kokoda Trail. township of Mt Victoria was challenge, scenically excellent and of Savour the atmosphere, history and challenge of once called One Tree Hill. considerable educational value. Hope this unique destination. M T VICTORIA TO some of you may “have a look”! Small group departures operate most months H ARTLEY VALE Some References: of the year. Alternatively, canoe the Sepik River, The tracks in this area Neil Paton “Treks in New South hike with Huli Wigman or bike through New would be pretty well known to Wales” The Bushwalker Ireland. many club bushwalkers. The Robert Sloss “Bushwalking, Department of Land and Cycling – Jogging in the Lower Blue PNG has a special adventure for you - Water Conservation will be Mountains” without the crowds able to provide you with Jim Smith “How to See the Blue For further details contact: information. We walked along Mountains” (2nd ed.) Berghofers Rd and visited Tyrone T Thomas “100 Walks in Berghofers Pass, which was in New South Wales” (4th ed.) (lic.2TA 000 1455) use for a time until cars were GPO Box 7002 Sydney, NSW 2001 powerful enough to negotiate Ph (02) 9290-2055 Fax (02) 9267-6118 Victoria Pass. Mt York

S OMEONE’ S GOT T O DO IT ! We are two Australians ex-teachers living in India. Four times a year we take walks to the Darjeeling region and the foothills of the Himalayas. The walks are for all ages but designed with people like us in their middle-age in mind. One your is a luxury walk for 14 days, staying each night in very comfortable hotels and lodges. The other is a 21 day tour including a 7 day Trek into the magical Singalila National Park. For small groups we will also run tailored walking tours at times and with an itinerary that suits you. David Rowe is home to talk to walkers who might be interested in learning about the tours. Call Sandra at Smnall World Travel 03 9836 2377 and leave a contact number. David will cal you back and answer questions and send more information if you want. A walk that will stay with you forever may only be months away. Why not join us, after all, Someone’s Got To Do It. Walk Safely - Walk With a Club...... L ETTERS TO THE EDITOR ...... Dear Editor, A CCESS TO CANYONS I hope you can find space to publish the 3'” December 1999 Editor’s note: following. Please give it what publicity 1 would like to point out to your The views expressed by Mr you can among bushwalkers and readers that access to many canyons in Jamieson are not the views of the bushwalking clubs. the Blue Mountains will be seriously Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs. Please report all sightings of wild restncted in the near future. Along with many individual canyoners pigs and/or wild pig shooters to Na- Because the Wollemi Wilderness and clubs, Confederation supported the tional Parks and Wildlife Area was declared early in 1999, the declaration of the Wollemi Wilderness Service Rangers, with NPWS is bound to erect locked gates on and the inherent road closures. It is date, time, location and many of the roads into the Wollemi. ironic that he is supporting, for the vehicle registration For example, the road that gives convenience of some canyoners, the numbers where appropriate. Especially access to the Hole-in-the-Wall Canyon continued existence of roads originally in Kosciuszko National Park over the is to be closed near Newnes Forest, pushed through by coal miners and coming summer season. meaning an extra 2 km walk each way foresters, and becoming ever more Pig shooting in National Parks is an to approximately 30 canuons. popular with some rogue four-wheel illegal activity involving guns,dogs, The roads to Galah, Surefire, Heart drivers and trail-bike riders. illegal 4WD access and resultant Attack, Dumbano and Yarramun Confederation¹s representative damage to the environment. canyons are also to be closed, adding on the Blue Mountains NPWS 1996-99 It disrupts the attempts of rangers to approximately 5 km each way. Advisory Committee, Andy Macqueen, get rid of the pigs because hunters shoot Mountain bikes will be permitted on makes the following comments on Mr at selected pigs and scatter the herd some of the locked roads, since they Jamieson’s letter: whereas NPWS staff are trying to locate will be maintained for fire control It will be a sad day when the and contain the herds and shoot or purposes. worth of wildness is determined accord- remove all the pigs. But overall this large group of ing to accessibility by a one-day car trip 7 Marion Woof - Killara canyons will become much more from Sydney. Bushwalker The difficult. Most people who have enjoyed In the sixties Rick wrote an T HE RODRIGUEZ PASS: doing canyons in a day-trip from Sydney inspirational guide-book on C WALK ALONG ENTENARY will be forced to go to other canyons - bushwalking, featuring all sorts of long H ISTORIC BLUE MOUNTAINS some of which are over-crowded. and adventurous walks throughout the T RACK The rangers al Blackheath believe Blue Mountains and elsewhere. It is Andy Macqueen that the gates will be in place for the strange that he should these days be Springwood Bushwalking Club 2000 - 2001 canyon season protesting that to enjoy a canyon people It¹s a hundred years since the track Objections to the closures - which one might have to walk a bit or be from Govetts Leap to Evans Lookout canyonners expressed in response to the forced’ to go elsewhere because you via the Grose Valley was completed. On Draft plan of Management for the can’t do it on a day trip from Sydney. Sunday 16 April 2000 there will be an Wilderness Area. - seem to have been Has he forgotten that it can actually be informal re-enactment of the opening ignored. enjoyable, even uplifting, to stroll day, on which 40 people walked the Perhaps the influential members of through the bush? Or has he succumbed entire track and enjoyed a luncheon the conservation movement - victors of to the attitudes of a fast society that is down on Govetts Creek. many good and worthwile battles in the only happy with never-ending and If you can walk and are reasonable past - are becoming too powerful and forever heightening thrills? fit you are invited to join in - the only too self- righteous. It is significant that Surely part of the charm and condition is that you dress and equip this lobby is composed of Just a very value of canyons is their very wildness yourself appropriately for the year 1900! few individuals. and remoteness. The adventure of Form a group and join in for an interest- What has happened to the “Freedom canyoning should encompass the ing and fun day. of the Hills” ? experience of getting there if possible of This event is being held by the Yours sincerely discovering the canyon for yourself, Friends of Blue Gum Forest in conjunc- Rick Jamieson (President Rich- preferably without guidebook in hand. tion with the NPWS. For more informa- mond Squash and Bushwalking Club) Yes, we might even have to do an tion phone Ranger Cath Ireland, NPWS overnight walk to visit some canyons. - 02 4787 8877. When the sport of canyoning is reduced to falling out of your car at the first abseil, we might as well build artificial canyons at Australia’s Wonderland. Then we can all have instant gratification without leaving the city and return the canyons to their pristine state. The road closures may put more pressure on the more accessible canyons. If so, the answer probably lies in new management of those canyons: hardened access, formalised anchor points and, shudder, party regulation. (Such moves seem inevitable anyway.) The answer is not, as canyoning popularity inexorably increases, to make more and more canyons accessible, to invite more and more motor vehicles into the bush, and gradually to lose the wildness of the greatest wilder- ness in the state...... Walk Safely - Walk With a Club ...... A LONG THE TRACK

of that club represented Confederation. stones, roughly elipsoidal in cross Most of the many issues and “Hot section might give less restriction to Spots “discussed are in Victoria but a high river flows and not be too visually major item was the AAWT route unattractive. Do club members have any between Charlotte Pass and Guthega other ideas or comments? Power Station L OCKLEY TRACK BLUE The official route follows the M OUNTAINS NP. Kosciuskzo and Link Roads to avoid the sensitive Main Range but many walkers Another Confederatioin member has Alex Tucker ,not unnaturally, prefer to go that way. reported that a wooden ladder on a Tracks & Access Officer There is a longstanding proposal to steep section of the Lockley Track just beyond the turn off to Lockley Pylon is A CCESS TO reroute the AAWT from the above roads down an old SMHEA survey track in very bad repair and it is probably less B ONNUM PIC. along Spencers Creek to the Guthega dangerous to scramble down, although Road There was some support for a this increases the erosion impact the The NPWS District Manager, South recommendation to the AALC that a ladder was meant to avoid. The Acting Metropolitan, has approved the estab- feasibility study be financed. It was District Manager Blue Mountains has lishment of a walking route to provide unfortunate that the NPWS Jindabyne replied promptly to my letter and has access to Bonnum Pic in Nattai NP office was unable to send a representa- arranged for an inspection. The most without crossing private lands. District tive to the meeting. It is known that that disturbing part of the letter is that the staff had worked with members of the District is unwilling to divert scarce District has a major backlog of safety Southern Highlands Bushwalkers to resources to the upgrading any informal related issues on walking tracks define a route wholly within the Na- tracks. No doubt the MSG executive I ask all club members to report any tional Park and to place temporary officer will be seeking to resolve the unsafe conditions that they encounter 8 markers. It seems8 that other walkers are issue. on their walks in any NP to Confed- already using the route but some minor Having reached Guthega PS the eration through their club representa- clearing is required to avoid a prolifera- AAWT follows the Schlink Pass road tives or to the Confederation Secretary tion of footpads. The track now has to that is a park management trail and for the attention of the Tracks & Access be approved by the local Aboriginal “unpleasant walking” Officer.. Council. If this apprioval is given, track The Broken Dam hut burnt down We might then be able to inform the work will be done in the autumn and Minister and the NPWS Director

The Bushwalker some 18months ago and in line with volunteers are requested from clubs who NPWS policy, will NOT be rebuilt. The General of our concerns. regularly visit this spectacular country. AAWT publications will be amended. L AMINGTON NP Tentative dates are either 1-2 April or 8- S NOWY RIVER CROSSING You may have seen the coverage 9 April. It may be that all the work can given by the Telegraph Mirror last be done on the Saturday A member of Confederation has passed to me a complaint about the December to the story of four A USTRALIAN ALPS difficulty in crossing the Snowy River bushwalkers “lost for four days ‘ while W ALKING TRACK (AAWT) on the track from Charlotte Pass to Blue attempting to walk to the site of the The Maintenance Strategy Group Lake during the September / (MSG), which is part of the Recreation October school holidays. & Tourism Working Group of the Due to the early snow melt Australian Alps Liaison Committee this year the river level was (AALC) held its annual Planning higher than usual but not at a Meeting at Walhalla Victoria last level at which the warning October. Walhalla is an old gold mining signs recommend against town now reduced to a very small using the stepping stones. In number of residents and is the southern response to my letter, the entrance to the AAWT. Most of those Assistant District Manager, present are Rangers in the three Na- Alpine advises that it is tional Parks services, but they welcome necessary to relocate the the comments and opinions of members stones every year because the Lamington NP Border track photo Colin Wood of user groups., among them John peak river flow moves them Siseman author of the guide book downstream. I have recently seen a 1937 Stinson crash. Bernard O Reilly which first promoted the three State photo taken some years ago in which told of his search for the surviovors in track. Bill Metzenthen represented the spacing of the stones appear to be his book “Green Mountain” and there VicWalk , Stuart Brooks the Victorian more user friendly for children than at has been four feature films made over Mountain Tramping Club and Mel- present. Has anyone else had problems the years since. bourne Walking Club and Rupert with the crossing or do you have a Brian who had led has sent some Barnett the Victorian NPA Allan photo which might assist NPWS in clippings to me a party with the same Mikkelson represented the Canberra improving the location and flatness of intention last May but which also failed Bushwalking Club and Alan Vidler also the stones. I had thought that artificial Continued on page 18 Walk Safely - Walk With a Club......

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9 The Bushwalker The ...... Walk Safely - Walk With a Club ...... “IS THE COFFEE FILTERED?” Nepal has long been the destination of travellers lured by trekking routes that pass through villages and over high passes with spectacular views of some of the world’s highest mountains. With thermal underwear and torch packed ready for the big adventure, probably the biggest concerns are “will I be fit enough?” or “will I get sick?”. But as you set off on the trek, other questions arise such as “is the coffee filtered?” or “are there any chocolates donuts?” Yes, you can get filtered coffee and donuts but only in Kathmandu or the bigger towns such as Pokhara or Namche Bazaar. It is important to understand that Nepal is Nepalese, that’s its’ attraction. A typical meal in a lodge will have either a rice, noodle or potato base and is usually served with vegeta- bles such as carrots, cauliflower or mustard greens. Meat such as buff (buffalo), goat or chicken is available and served together with the bones - nothing goes to waste. Lunch and dinner menus are interchangeable. Breakfast choices are muesli, porridge, pancakes or eggs. Good food, high in carbohydrates and a great source of energy but, be prepared because it can get a bit Typical Kitchen in Nepal boring on a long trek. After just a few days on the trail, you will understand how almost everything is carried by either porters or mules, much of it for tourists. Kit-Kat, Pringles and Coca-Cola can be purchased on the trail but if Vegemite is your passion - take your own. A must try are the mo-mos which are meat or vegetarian filled dumplings and served with a clear soup and chilli sauce. Some tea houses will have treats such as apple pie, always freshly baked just for you. Yak steaks appear on the menu at higher 10 altitudes and are10 best consumed using a Swiss Army knife and for something with a real kick, try the mustang coffee! Trekkers often get impatient waiting for their meal to arrive. Cooking facilities are simple and all the food is cooked fresh. If each member of the group orders a different dish, then as each meal is prepared, it will be served then another cooked and served etc. Time and cooking fuel can be saved if people order the same dishes. So why not enjoy the wait because it will certainly be worth it and relax into the Nepali way of life. Contributed by Marilynne Sherpa of Om Trek. The Bushwalker Walk Safely - Walk With a Club......

A GUIDE TO ...... BUSHWALKERS equipment, the gear you B IRD HABITATS would take on a normal day IN NEW SOUTH WILDERNESS walk including a first aid W ALES kit, map and compass, R ESCUE R. M. COOPER and your personal abseilling equipment. AND I.A.W. E XERCISE: For those who want to M C A LLAN 8-9 APRIL do Challenge Valley By Merrilyn Sach - Past member of The NSW bring an old set of clothes Field Ornithologists Club This Guide is to assist its members 2000. that you can get wet and when in the field recording bird species and Glen Horrocks muddy. related data on a specifically prepared Bushwalkers Wilderness Rescue Costs have not been confirmed Report Sheet. With this collective data, the yet, but it will cost approximately $5 Bird Atlassers monitors the distribution of The April Bushwalkers Wilderness per night for camping per night per birds in New South Wales, preserving Rescue Exercise is aimed at improving person, and around $4 per person to do habitats, providing a proper basis for the personal skills of members of Challenge Valley. environmental impact studies and for other bushwalking clubs so they are more It should be an educational and ornithological reference purposes. The proficient and self-reliant bushwalkers. enjoyable weekend. Come along and Guide allows the members to be quite This year we will be returning to learn some new skills, learn about precise in recording habitat of the birds Cataract Scout Park as our base and rescue, and socialise with club members sited and is a compact size and weight for following a similar theme as last year’s use in the field. from far and wide. March exercise. Workshops will be run For more information on this and But for the casual birdwatcher and lover on navigation, GPS, radio and commu- of Australia’s wonderful natural bounties, other Wilderness Rescue activities, see nications, personal abseilling skills, first the Guide provides throughout a colourful our web page: and excellent pictorial array of almost aid, problem solving and team work. http://www.mcauley.nsw.edu.au/ 1,000 different habitats in New South For those who like to get wet and rescue/

Wales together with descriptions of the muddy we will also be doing Challenge 11 typical flora to be found, geographical Valley obstacle course (optional, you H EAVY METAL Bushwalker The location and of course the common names don’t have to if you don’t want to). This of the birds which prefer that particular has been a highly successful event in “GARBAGE” habitat, a preference based on sources of previous years, with all learning new The world is now overflowing with preferred food, shelter and roosting and skills in a friendly environment (includ- nesting sites. cheap mirrors - compact disks (CDs) of ing the instructors!). all kinds of music from head banger With the Guide’s use would come a Cataract Scout Park is located on the greater awareness of, and appreciation for, “Garbage” (it really is a group) to “both road to Cataract Dam, off Appin Road, Australia’s unique natural environment and kinds” Country and Western (to quote a wider knowledge of the birdlife which half way between Appin and the F6 the ‘Blues Brothers’). Now mirrors are depends on that precious natural world of Southern Freeway. We will start at good things to signal aircraft and sea, mountain and desert. 9:00am Saturday morning, and will helicopters but need to be aimed to be The Introduction is concise and finish Sunday afternoon. effective. contains a simple yet informative Glossary. We will have use of the camp The problem is of course that The coloured photographs are superb, kitchen which has gas burners, running aircraft always seem so obvious. They giving names of flora shown and where water, sinks and a refrigerator; and a are only obvious because they are photographed. Also included is a Bibliog- small hall if the weather turns nasty. raphy and a list of botanical and common moving. When you Freeze their motion The camping will be close to the cars. in a picture all you get is a dirty speck. I names of plants mentioned in the text. You will need your own camping Overall a very excellent Guide. A GUIDE TO THE BIRD HABITATS IN NEW SOUTH WALES The New South Wales Bird Atlassers (NSWBA) are proud to announce the launch of their latest publication - A GUIDE TO THE BIRD HABITATS IN NEW SOUTH WALES - possibly the first attempt to link the distri- bution of bird species vith their preferred habitat. This publication contains more than 200 photo- graphs of the varying types of vegetation in NSW, from oceanic islands to rainforests, alpine herbfield, woodlands, grasslands, the largest riverine wetland system in Australia, and the near-desert environment of the far west of this state. Given such a diversity of habitats it is unreasonable to expect the average bird-watcher to be able to identify specific vegetation for the more than 500 species of birds accepted as occurring in NSW. Hence this GUIDE TO THE BIRD HABITATS in NSW, describing the differing types of vegeta- tion, and providing a list of some of the more common birds one may expect to find there. More information and orders may be obtained by contacting the publicity officer of the NSW Bird Atlassers. O RDER FORM

PEASE SEND ME...... COPY/COPIES OF A GUIDE TO THE BIRD HABITATS IN NSW PRICE: MEMBER $25.00. NON-MEMBER $32.00. NAME ...... ADDRESS...... POST CODE...... ENCLOSED CHEQUE/MONEY ORDER POST TO: J. SOUTHERON. PUBLICITY OFFICER ‘NSWBA’. “OLD DROMANA”, MOREE. 2400. NSW. PH/FAX 0267 533 242...... Walk Safely - Walk With a Club ...... have an excellent panoramic slide of Mt Cook taken while stands out. It is even more compelling when the blue is of a climbing Copeland Saddle. The great weather produced a rectangular groudsheet pegged down. Alternatively you could clear picture spoilt only by a dirty speck. If the plane is a speck furiously wave your blue parka in all directions. Others how much smaller must I have been? jumping up and down with you is better again. Just pick an Helicopters and light aircraft are always used first in unusual combination of contrasting colour, shape & move- fine weather to search for missing persons. They can be quick ment. On hazy days smokey fires are almost invisible and and cost effective from their ability to travel quickly to the always difficult to maintain for that brief moment when the search area and communicate via radio to ground search aircraft suddenly appears. To really catch attention, though, teams. With trained observers they are often successful but why not send a mirror signal, i.e. a flash of light into the when there is tree cover their success rate is often quite low. aircraft. Many years ago in a training exercise with But, how do you aim the mirror ftash to hit the Dick Smith, and his first helicopter, moving dirty speck (aircraft)? The hole in the CD makes it bushwalkers standing still. in the easy. Hold the CD (with the reflective side facing out) close to Cox’s River were not seen! In one eye and look at the aircraft through the hole. Now hold September, 1999 in an arm out with a finger extended and track the aircraft across Cedar Creek, under the sky. If you now catch the sun to flash onto your finger you Narrow Neck, the must also hit the aircraft! search helicopter What if you don’t want to be noticed. In snow capped was so close the mountains (such as New Zealand) on a clear day climbers missing bushwalker readily stand out as moving coloured specks on a vast white reported that he background. The convention is if a climber has an accident could stongly smell they wave vigorously at any plane flying overhead. The pilot its exhaust fumes will immediately radio to Emergency Senices for a rescue. If but still was NOT they have only slipped and bruised nothing but the ego they seen! deliberately pay no attention to overhead aircraft which may Prompt now circle waiting for a signal. Alternatively you could be walking in one of the popular parts of the Blue Mountains 12 identification will 12 lead to early rescue. and a possible search aircraft flies low overhead. If your trip is There are a number of proceeding well you should stand still under tree cover if ways to attract attention. You obviously need to be in an open possible until the aircraft passes. Pilots seeing groups not in an area as possible and use combinations of contrasting difficulties can potentially delay the location of the group who colour, shape & movement. The unusual often draws the eye really need their help. to it. For example, in a sea of green eucalypts blue (or red) Other sources of CDs are trial computer programs The Bushwalker A BSEILING AT MOUNTP ORTAL Article & photos by Keith Maxwell fencing continues around a viewing Mount Portal is a lookout at the Director Wilderness Rescue edge of the Lapstone Monocline. It platform, suitable for wheelchair access, that leads off the far end of the carpark. thus has a knockout view down the commercial groups. Equally many This platform runs on the west side of Nepean River and over the Cumberland visitors just come to see the panoramic “Abseiler’s Gully”. At its end is a Plain from its location above the view of the western plains of Sydney. labelled picture sign to help visitors junction of Glenbrook Creek (Gorge) Recently the National Parks & identity the many features visible from and Nepean River. Wildlife Service (NP&WS) did this great lookout. extensive capital works to improve Half of a large information sign is visitor safety and accessibility. devoted to local area information while Included were measures to regulate the other half lists safety principles for abseiling. You pass the turnoff to abseilers to follow. Consideration of Tunnel View Lookout on the way to others is requested while the rock bolts Mount Portal. This side road is are the only anchors to be used. The now gated here so that you have to tree at the head of “Abseiler’s Gully” is walk a short distance to see the gone! Access from the carpark is by a railway tunnel that cuts through a set of (lockable) double pool gates that bend in Glenbrook Gorge. There is open inwards. A bold sign says a local area information board and “ABSEILERS ONLY beyond this At Mount Portal there is a gently multilingual warning sign about going point”. sloping gully, that is easy to ascend, close to cliff edges. In place of the tree now are four that has long been popular for beginner The one way ‘eye’ that you previ- large stainless steel bolts (as specified by abseilers. Other abseils of higher ously drove around at Mount Portal is NP&WS on advice from a consultant grades are also nearby including a steep blocked off on the approach side. You engineer). These are 16mm diameter wall on the west side of “Abseiler’s now drive in and out the same way to a with a head that is 27mm across. They Gully”. As a drive to site, just outside new, large, open, gravel carpark. The protrude out of the rock between 20 to Glenbrook, it gets heavily used by a far end and cliff side of the carpark are 40mm and are set back from the gully broad range of beginner abseilers from bounded by pool fencing. The pool locals to Bushwalking Clubs / Scouts to edge by 2.5metres. They thus are too Walk Safely - Walk With a Club......

any fixed location for multiple abseils...... large for standard ‘bolt plates’. Many S LINGS people have chosen, unwisely, to put The (bolt) slings should not be able to Despite the difficulties of attaching prussic slings onto these bolts for their accidentally flip off the bolts if for any to these bolts, under NO circumstances abseil ropes. A short section of pool reason the load is suddenly reduced. should the fencing be used. Slings of fence behind these bolts limits access to Do not do big jumps and leaps as these adequate strength can apply large forces to your rigging to wrap around and accelerate any rope abrasion that the bolts could be has already started. Continuous abseil- either properly ing at the one spot accentuates any tied ones of minor faults in rigging. At regular 25mm tube tape intervals during the day the abseil or 14mm ‘Spec- rigging should be checked. Commonly tra’. Spectra everyone carefully watches the Instruc- slings come as a tor do the rigging then happily abseil all ready made loop day with no further checks! The last joined by sewing. abseil of the day has become someone’s Tube tape is last abseil! All abseilers should be cheaper but you checked by a ‘buddy’ before starting must be sure your their descent. Larger Car park at Mt Portal tape knot lies R OPE ABRASION “flat” and is one direction only. People ascending Rope abrasion can be a serious pulled tight with good long tails. Your the gully are forced to walk around problem whenever ropes are anchored club Training Officer should be able to behind the fence. Scattered on either so far back from the cliff edge (2.5 assist you. Last year a bushwalker side of the gully are “standard” size metres at Abseiler’s Gully). For safety abseiler was nearly killed when an bolts (which would suit normal bolt and to extend the life of your rope you incorrectly tied tape knot, on the belay plates) for the more difficult abseils. should use some form of rope protec- sling, came undone!

C OMMENTS tion where the rope makes sharp turns 13 I NSTRUCION & INSURANCE It is clear that NP&WS have ac- over rocks. While Sydney sandstone is Bushwalker The Some people do abseiling as a cepted the impossibility of stopping friable it still is composed of very hard “sport”. Unfortunately most accidents abseiling. They have tried to limit their grains of quartz! Abseiling all day at happen at fixed locations such as where public liability by extensive fencing and the same location will concentrate rope ‘abseiling training days’ or sport abseil- excessively strong bolts as anchors. abrasion at the sharp turns over rocks. ing are held. The Confederation is Obviously oversize bolt plates would be An old hessian sack tied in place by a negotiating with our insurer guidelines the best way to anchor abseiling ropes. short rope is a popular choice. for the required skills of club abseiling Bolt plates all used to be home made The great principle of plumbing is Instructors. Until these are approved but bushwalkers should now carefully ‘water does not flow uphill’. For there is NO insurance cover for abseil- consider the public liability implications abseilers the great principle must be ing Instructors. All future training days of the failure of a home made bolt plate ‘gravity never takes a holiday’. Safety should be under the control of a recog- before attempting their construction. must be a priority. Thus the above nised club abseiling Instructor who Why not generate some bushwalker comments must be integrated within meets the skills criteria. consumer pressure by asking at your your other knowledge of safe abseiling. R IGGING local bushwalking shop for the “Portal” Abseiling is not an essential skill for bolt plate. “Abseiler’s Gully” is a particularly bushwalking but can open up access to low level of risk (as abseils go) but the some very special places in the Greater same principles should be applied as for Blue Mountains and elsewhere. W HAT’ S IN THE VAULTS? - RECONSTRUCTING A John Macris PICTURE OF PAST ENVIRONMENTS Conservation Officer Here are some snippets from a 1930s bushwalking guide Peninsula B.C. (before Caltex). Having already been book: subject to over a century of grazing by that stage, leading ‘Head first for the highest dune you can see...from the top of to mobilisation of the once wooded dunes, the area was this you can look down on the far side on fully grown trees which already a degraded landscape, as the text goes on to are slowly being buried by this moving sand dune....Turning suggest. The snapshot of the tall sandhill environment west, you will see before you amongst the sandhills a valley and array of cultural artifacts is quite fascinating however, floored with shells and dotted with the stumps and spreading when compared with the rather scarred residual landscape roots of many trees. Your way now leads you along this very remaining today after the establishment of heavy industry interesting valley, which is part of the Quibray Aboriginal and extraction of over 50 million tonnes of sand. Middens. Travelling through an area on foot seems to lend itself Here, for many years, the aboriginals camped and made their tools, to taking note of the features on show. For the purpose of and this for many years after the white man had taken their land, as is tracing environmental change, notes by early bushwalkers proved by certain small tools which have been found, made of bottle glass and naturalists are often an excellent source of informa- instead of stone.....(SBW 1932). tion. For example, changes in the bird species observed in If you hadn’t guessed, this is describing part of the Kurnell a rural area over time can be used as an indicator of the ...... Walk Safely - Walk With a Club

...... pace of habitat modification. The journal of the agronomist Peter forms a major divide to the natural For some areas, historic travel notes Cunningham from 1827 gives an areas of the eastern escarpment and giving an original intact description of account of the variety of natural their wildlife. territories long since disturbed, repre- vegetation encountered in travels along Returning to the matter of examin- sent one of the few means of determin- the Hunter Valley during the infancy of ing walk notes by bushwalkers of ing what grew there prior to settlement. its settlement. Cunningham supports the yesteryear, a current area of interest to I have recently investigated accounts above evidence of rainforest occurring geomorphologists is the changing of the pre-disturbance environment in on the Hunter floodplain. He further patterns of sedimentation in our rivers. the lower Hunter Valley during early describes the foothills in the vicinity of A stream like the Colo for example, colonial settlement, in particular the Wallis Plains (Maitland): “The country today shows the effects of human activity in its major tributaries the Wolgan and Capertee Rivers. These rivers flow across fairly broad alluvial valley floors prior to entering the more constricted and steeply falling gorge sections in Wollemi National Park. Clearance of native vegetation in the upper reaches has released significant quantities of sediment into the river. With clay particles largely carried out to the Hawkesbury suspended in flood waters, the remaining sandy sediments, less easily transported, have accumu- lated throughout the length of the Lower Wolgan, Capertee and Colo. It is said that in the first decade or so of bushwalking in the Colo country, 14 14 quantities of sand encountered in the gorge sections were much lower than these days. If this anecdotal information Capertee can be fleshed out with any written floodplain environment which was back from the river consists of rising hills of accounts from the first walkers, of the entirely cleared for agriculture. For this inferior soil, with fertile flooded vine brushes, river condition at certain locations, this

The Bushwalker it was necessary to consult references to watered by lagoons communicating with the potentially offers reference points for early exploration and ‘taming’ by the river”. The valley environment upstream those studying the rates at which this new settlers. of the present day Maitland towards catchment is divesting itself of the The alluvial flats in the area around Singleton is described by Cunningham eroded alluvial sands. Maitland and the Hunter-Paterson as initially rainforest followed by If we know that, we have an idea of Rivers junction were named Wallis and predominantly open forest, before the how long it might take (after arresting Paterson Plains respectively (Vader extensive grassland and Savannah plains erosion in the headwaters) for these 1987). It appears from recounts of around singleton were encountered. streams to return to their former charac- exploration by William Paterson in 1801 Subsequent vegetation and land teristic rocky condition. that much of the floodplain environ- system mapping of the Hunter in the So if you happen upon any such ment of the area supported stands of 1960s at the broad catchment scale, information, please get in touch. Red Cedar - a rainforest species used appears not to have taken great account References or recommended read- extensively for its valuable timber of the pre-settlement floodplain environ- ing: A more explicit description of the ments. In fact the valley is depicted in a Benson, J.S. and Redpath, P.A. forest type in which the cedar occurred number of published regional outlines, (1997) The nature of pre-European native is recorded by the area’s Bishop Tyrell, as merging from open Savannah wood- vegetation in south-eastern regarding the ‘Greenhills’ property land to dry open forest, oblivious to the Australia.Cunninghamia 5 (2) 285-328. established in the 1820s at the junction past enclave of moist forests cleared National Herbarium of New South of the Hunter and Paterson Rivers, as from the Maitland vicinity. Wales. Sydney. follows: “Mr Close found the country a One interesting implication of this Cunningham, P. (1827. Reprinted dense bush, covered with scrub and ancient reconstruction is that an ecological link 1966) Two years in New South Wales trees, whose arched branches almost con- possibly existed prior to European Volume 1. Reproduced by the Libraries cealed the river, and whose leafy boughs were settlement, between the forest environ- Board of South Australia. Adelaide. so impervious to light that to walk beneath ments of the Watagan mountains/ The Sydney Bushwalkers (1932) them , even in broad daylight, was like central coast hinterland in the south and Bushwalks and By-ways. SBW. Sydney walking in the dimness of twilight” (re- Barrington Tops (thence adjoining the Vader, J. (1987) Red Cedar, the tree of printed in Vader 1987 p31). This quote extensive northern forested escarpment) Australia’s History. Reed Books. Frenchs is clearly depicting a rainforest environ- in the north, albeit with gradational Forest. ment on the Hunter floodplain. The full patterns of dry and moist open forest passage goes on to describe the clear- and a variety of understory forms. The see poem page 18 ance of this vegetation for agriculture. present day open valley in contrast Walk Safely - Walk With a Club...... C ONFEDERATION CALENDAR FOR 2000 GET THESE EVENTS ON YOUR CLUBS PROGRAMME AND TEAR OUT AND PUT IT ON YOUR FRIDGE.

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The Remote Area First-aid course is designed to equip those individuals whose interests, activities or employment takes them to isolated areas, with the knowledge and skills necessary to give ongoing care, over a prolonged period of time, to an ill/injured casualty. For enquires contact St John Ambulance N.S.W. (02) 9212-1088. Courses will also be conducted on request for groups of 12 or more. To become a member of the Rogaine Association phone 9990-3480 or visit the website at http://rogaine.asn.au The Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs represents over 67 clubs and 10,500 walkers in NSW. Visit our website at www.bushwalking.org.au - email [email protected]. Phone (02) 9294-6797 Any member of any club may attend meetings of the Confederation...... Walk Safely - Walk With a Club ......

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H AVE YOUR FAVOURITE HIKING BOOTS P ROFESSIONALLY RESOLED AND V ULCANISED BY QUALIFIED B OOTMAKERS NU-TRED 3/12 SALISBURY ROAD A SQUITH NSW P H : 02-9477-3944 FAX 02-9482-1766 3/12 SALISBURY ROAD ASQUITH NSW P H : 02-9477-3944 FAX 02-9482-1766 Walk Safely - Walk With a Club...... T HE COLO tough and tricky terrain and poor topo C APERTEE ...... maps. W ILDERNESS The twenty walks detailed in the We’ve fallen in love with Capertee, BY ANTHONY book are graded for experienced walkers The sunken valley of Capertee; D UNK and there is a good range of walks for With its twisted gums, all the major access points around Reviewed by Wilf Hilder Wolemi NP. The walk descriptions and And its rolling downs; how to get to the starting points is With its grazing sheep, Published by Envirobook Sydney And its lack of towns; 1999 thorough, bur useful information on the Max Gentle’s terse but immortal Colo Gorge is scarce. The outline maps description of the Colo River - that is provided for most walks are good but We’ve fallen in love with Capertee, was good for all round physical will test your navigational ability. The sunken valley of Capertee. developement - is a masterpiece of Another section in the book covers We’re deeply in love with Capertee, vehicle camping areas mainly on the understatement. This shining valley of Capertee; Anthony Dunk’s new book on the edges of Wollemi NP. The book is well illustrated, but some photos are not up With its guarding cliffs, Colo Wilderness and Wollemi National And its knobbly peaks; Park is a most usefull guide book in the to the quality of the text. excellent series produced by I am pleased to recommend With its stately buttes Envirobook. Anthony Dunk’s “The COLO Wilder- And its tree-lined creeks; The author’s extensive research on ness as a very ?? book for any serious We’re deeply in love with Capertee, the grounf as well as on paper, has has bushwalker interested in Wollemi NP This shining valley of Capertee. resulted in a very “user friendly” guide aspecially the mighty Colo Gorge. book for a region that is noted for its We’d like to live in Capertee, from page 8 advice may have been outdated. The sunken valley of Capertee; to reach the site. It appears that the Another complication is that at the With its sheep and cows, newspaper had described the six January meeting of Confederation a walkers, all in their mid 20s to 30s as And its kangaroos; 17

member claimed to have had no prob- Bushwalker The “heroes” which seems unkind to the lems in reaching this crash site. There With its greens and browns, three ladies. The status seems to be was no time to get details. So lets hear And its hazy blues; denied by the party and by the farming some detailed information from any We’d like to live in Capertee, couple that met the party walking out. one else with recent experience The sunken valley of Capertee. The National Park‘s District Manager The other reported comment from is quoted by the paper as saying that the the NP District Manager was that the We want to explore fair Capertee, party had met the self reliance and area had been deliberately left as The wide-spread valley of Capertee; experience criteria necessary for unsignposted wilderness. Generally walking in the area. The report men- Confederation would support this We’ll follow the tracks tions that they still had enough food for action, but it seems that it might not be Where the magpies flute; an other day when found which may appropriate in this instance for a “herit- We’ll try to climb have been seven days since the start of a age walk”. A popular Alpine wilderness Each towering butte; weekend walk. On the other hand they area in Victoria has found that “fanning We want to explore fair Capertee, may not have advised their relatives of out” has resulted in a proliferation of The wide-spread valley of Capertee. this.before leaving.. tracks and the manager has decided to When they realised that they were sparingly sign post one track. At lost they stayed put for the first night Lamington it seems that walkers have We’ll. dream through the years of and lit signal fires but the tree canopy fixed yellow plastic tapes and some of Capertee, was too thick and the four searching the problems of the December party The sunken valley of Capertee; helicopters failed to spot it There is no may have been a sudden absence of the With its mountain air, mention of any further signal fires so tapes due to weather or removal by And its rolling downs; presumably the searchers moved on to advocates of strict wilderness condi- With its lovely hills; other locations. The paper mentions tions. The rescue operation involved And its lack of towns; the usual false leads such as a “space some 60 SES volunteers and NP staff, blanket belonging to the party ” found and the helicopters so financial consid- We’ll dream through the years of at Grady’s Creek. So the story is erations alone would indicate a need for Capertee, confusing to say the least. minimal signposting of one of the two The sunken valley of Capertee. It is further confused by the experi- tracks and/or minimal clearing of fallen ence of Brian’s party, which had trees and encroaching vegetation. The Dorothy Lawry attempted to reach the Stinson site, by alternative management option is to March 31 , 1929 the Stretcher Track cut to bring out the formally close all access tracks with From Sing With the Wind crash survivors. wide publicity that there is no manage- (100 bushwaker poems) The Manager of the Stinson Park ment of public risk.. Caravan Park had advised them to I will be writing to the Queensland avoid the alternative Christmas Creek Federation for their advice on whether Track and probably gave the same we should take any official actions. advice to the December party. His ...... Walk Safely - Walk With a Club ...... 18 18 The Bushwalker Walk Safely - Walk With a Club......

19 The Bushwalker The