Lao Banzhang GLOBAL EA HUT Contentsissue 86 / March 2019 Tea & Tao Magazine Forest森林王子 Prince

GLOBAL EA HUT Tea & Tao Magazine 國際茶亭 March 2019

皇太子的森林

Lao Banzhang GLOBAL EA HUT ContentsIssue 86 / March 2019 Tea & Tao Magazine Forest森林王子 Prince

Lao Banzhang is the most famous, pricey and controversial region in Yunnan, and a must-see stop on the journey of any puerh lover. We are Love is very excited to dive deeper into this important region, all the while sipping from strong cups of one changing the world of the best, most valuable puerh teas that we have ever shared! bowl by bowl Features特稿文章

17 Lao Banzhang: The Prince of Yunnan By Luo Ying Yin (羅英銀) 25 25 Xin “New” Banzhang By Luo Ying Yin (羅英銀) 33 The Changing Market of Lao Banzhang By Lin En Zhao (林恩照) 51 The “Origins” of Tea 17 By Sam Gibb 33 Traditions 古茶 03 Tea of the Month Forest Prince, 2018 Sheng Puerh, Lao Banzhang, Yunnan, China 27 Gongfu Teapot 51 TheShape of the Teapot * ancient tea roots found By Shen Su (聖素) at the Tian Luo Shan site 39 Cha Dao TheElixir of Life 無的森 By Wu De ( ) © 2019 by Global Tea Hut 林 All rights reserved. 61 TeaWayfarer Frederik Wallin, Sweden 王 recycled & recyclable No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- 子 tem or transmitted in any form or by any means: electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without prior written permis- Soy ink sion from the copyright owner. n March, theFrom weather in Taiwan starts to warmthe up, of you feel like youeditor need to reach some level of expertise to and though it does rain a lot in the end of the month, share your experience, but nothing could be further from the temperature is wonderful. The world comes alive the truth—we are all students here, and all beginners. And at this time, and everything blooms and blossoms as such, we can all stand to benefit from the beginner’s per- Iisland-wide. Taiwan is very vibrant in this month. We really spective. You may not be able to write a scholarly article feel the shift from the cool, dark Yin of winter to the Yang about some very specific aspect of tea knowledge, science of spring starting after the Lunar New Year in February. or history, but you can share your experience and wisdom Of course, those who live in areas with four seasons feel this serving tea, learning about tea, fostering community, the shift much more pronouncedly, but this is really the only effects of tea on your self-cultivation, on your career or ro- seasonal transition we have in Taiwan: from warm to the mantic life and so on. You do have a voice, and you do have cool of winter and then back in the spring. This means we experience, strength, wisdom and hope to share! And we do start drinking young sheng from last year, tasting the age. want to read it! It would mean a lot to me if more of you We also like white and green teas now and again, as well as submitted articles this year. lots of oolong. This month, we are going to dive into a very import- This year’s Annual Global Tea Hut trip is right around ant topic for anyone who loves puerh tea: Lao Banzhang, the corner, from April 14th to the 24th. We are all super ex- a mountain/region in Yunnan where very fine tea comes cited to gather with tea lovers from around the world and from. As a result of the unique character of the tea from travel through the history of tea, walking in the footsteps of Banzhang—which is very strong, vibrant and full of ener- the “Tea Saint,” Lu Yu. We will be traveling from Shanghai gy—the area has achieved great fame. The tea is superb to to Zhejiang, and to Yixing as well. As usual, we will do our drink and wonderful to age, leading to a great demand for best to take all of you along with us for the ride, capturing Banzhang tea that far exceeds what the small area can pro- video and photographs, writing articles about the trip and duce. As a result, prices have skyrocketed. And with that thinking of all of you who wanted to join us, but couldn’t, fame have come all kinds of challenges, including fake tea, by saying prayers and raising bowls of tea for you as we go. environmental issues, decreases in quality due to the fast I wanted to use this forum to make a plea to all of you growth and tremendous influx of money and many more for the coming year(s) of our shared Global Tea Hut ex- issues. Though there still are stunning tea trees at the center perience: please participate more! Of course, this means of the whirlwind that is now “Lao Banzhang,” it is easy to sharing tea and sharing the word about this magazine. (Do get lost in all the hoopla. We hope that this issue will help you know that if everyone in Global Tea Hut got just one you to begin exploring this magical region of Yunnan and friend to join, and we therefore doubled in size, we could also be a warning about some of the problems that great de- start building Light Meets Life right away?) Many of you mand can cause to natural resources. And (we can’t believe are already doing this, and we are so incredibly grateful. it), we will be drinking a Lao Banzhang tea throughout our Let us know if there is any way we can help you spread the journey! word, like using our photography, writing, extra magazine copies and sometimes we can even send extra tins of tea you can use. Let’s all work together to grow the membership of Global Tea Hut this year like never before! Help us with our social media campaign and with word of mouth so that Wu De we can continue improving the magazine with more travel, better teas and more translations. Also, our ultimate goal is, obviously, to build your Tea Center, Light Meets Life: a place where you can come and study tea. It will be a flag for all Chajin around the world and for future generations of tea lovers to use as well. –Further Reading– Beyond just spreading the word about Global Tea Hut, one of the ways that you can participate is by writing for the magazine. We really, truly and absolutely do want to This month, we highly recommend re-reading the hear from you. Throughout the years, at least half of my special Extended Edition from September 2014 personal top ten articles for this magazine are from what we (the first-ever Extended Edition), which is jam- call “Voices from the Hut,” which means articles submit- packed with information on puerh tea. You can ted by the readership on all kinds of topics. I genuinely am find past issues archived on the website with an inspired by them and learn a lot. I think that maybe some easy-to-use search function!

2 of the

ver the course of this month, we will be exploring has been swallowed). As a result, it has become famous the Lao Banzhang region of Yunnan, which means throughout the world. To tea lovers, Banzhang Village has the “Old” Banzhang Village (there is a “New” one become one of the holy places of puerh tea. as well). Lao Banzhang produces excellent old-growth mao- For a long time, we have wanted to translate some ar- cha every year and has for centuries. In modern times, it ticles about Lao Banzhang, but we were unsure of how we has become incredibly famous and extremely valuable (the could ever share some tea with you since the prices are so most expensive puerh each year), which has caused a lot astronomical. We let all of our friends and tea family know of challenges for local tea producers, as producers all over that we were interested in anything remotely affordable even Yunnan fake Lao Banzhang tea. They say that Lao Banzhang years ago, knowing that there was a growing body of great can only produce roughly seven tons of tea annually, but articles written by puerh experts that we could translate at more than 3,000 tons of tea labeled as “Lao Banzhang” are any time. Eventually the wait paid off: Forest Prince. sold every year in the largest puerh market in Guangzhou, Forest Prince is certified organic tea from Lao Banzhang, called “Fangcun Market (芳村市場).” The village has had to grown in an eco-garden, which means rich biodiversity. It is erect a wall and build guarded gates to prevent people from much more affordable than the best Lao Banzhang tea, how- bringing in tea from other regions to sell as “Banzhang” ever, as it is produced from young trees—averaging thirty tea, and has taken other steps to prevent forgery. In all of to forty years old. But even with the great discount, it is still this noise, some of the quality of the tea has sadly been dis- expensive relative to other young sheng puerhs, which are rupted, as have the lives of the villagers. all expensive nowadays. This is one of the most valuable Despite all the chaos and market demand (which far ex- teas we have ever shared in Global Tea Hut, and it would ceeds production) there is real quality behind Lao Banzhang not have been possible without the kind generosity of a dear tea. There is a reason it became famous in the first place, in friend here in Taiwan, who wishes to remain anonymous. other words. Like many tourist destinations, the tourism the Our Tea of the Month, Forest Prince, is both bold and natural beauty attracts can destroy the very charm that peo- assertive and soft, elegant and refined. Lao Banzhang tea is ple want to visit. famous for being a great candidate for storage: strong Qi, Banzhang Tea Mountain is located in Banzhang Village bitter, astringent and incredibly vibrant. It is all of these of Bulangzu Township, Bulang Mountain, Menghai County. things, but genuine Lao Banzhang tea is also smooth and It is located 63 km from the Menghai county seat. Bulang fragrant with a nice splash to the upper palate. You will want Mountain’s Bulangzu Township covers an area of 1,016 to have time to enjoy this tea, and brewing will matter— square kilometers with a population of only 18,000 people. right amount, water, temperature, etc.—if you are to bring Mountains cover 93% of its land area. The elevation of this out the best Forest Prince has to offer. area ranges between 600 and 2,100 meters. Two thousand Spend a morning or afternoon with some true tea lovers, years ago, Pu people were already living here (the Pu were and enjoy a few dozen cups of this potent tea. Prepare for a the earliest indigenous people in Yunnan). The ancient Pu deep and powerful journey if you drink this tea in a ceremo- people were the earliest settlers of Yunnan and the first to nial way, surrounding it with some silence and depth. This is cultivate, produce and drink tea. Banzhang is just a simple a tea worth savoring. The breadth of the Qi is amazing and village, but the tea it produces possesses overpowering Qi lasts throughout the day. We love the bitterness and sweet- and intense huigan (returning “gan,” which means a minty ness combined, in the powerful way that only a genuine Lao coolness of the breath—in this case lingering after the tea Banzhang tea can do.

3 Forest Prince (森林王子) Lao Banzhang, Yunnan 生老 2018 Sheng Puerh 普班章 Hani Aboriginals 洱 ~1200 Meters Tea of the Month

A Deeper Session Further Exploration into Our Tea of the Month

ver the course of this month, ticle presents a specialized account of Aside from the aboriginal wisdom we will be drinking a Lao tea brick culture over the past century, and experience in aging puerh tea, 茶Banzhang “fangcha (方茶),” from the late Qing and early Republic the market learned about it large-scale Owhich is a type of square brick tea. eras up until modern times. during the late Qing and early Repub- Square bricks have been famous for Puerh begins as loose-leaf maocha, lic of China eras. At the time, Yunnan’s some decades. We thought that before before being steamed and compressed Xishuangbanna region was known as we dive into the issues surrounding Lao for ease of storage and transport. Be- “malaria country;” disease spread fast Banzhang, we could use our deeper cause of this method, it is known as in the humid climate, and people from dive into the Tea of the Month to compressed tea and is categorized ac- outside the region didn’t dare to set foot explore the history of puerh tea bricks, cording to the shape of the tea cakes: there in summer or fall. Tea produced which is a very interesting topic. We these include bing (餅) or discus at that time couldn’t be shipped out for would like to thank Liao Yi Rong (廖 shapes, rectangular zhuan (磚) or tea sale until the winter or spring season, 義榮) for contributing his knowledge bricks and tuo (沱), which are shaped so it would be left to age in storage and wisdom to this exploration. It is like little bowls or bird’s nests. Puerh while awaiting shipping. During this such an honor to be able to translate becomes more aromatic with age, due storage period, it would inevitably un- and offer Chinese tea wisdom to the to the “post-fermentation” (oxidation/ dergo oxidation/fermentation due to Western world! fermentation) process that occurs the humidity and high temperatures. Tea bricks are an essential part of when the tea comes into contact with On top of this, the tea then had to daily life for people of many different the air, stimulating degradation in the make long journeys on horseback to be ethnic origins throughout Tibet, Xinji- leaf, which makes the tea sweeter and transported along what is now called ang, Inner Mongolia, Qinghai, Gansu, mellower. Its value increases with age, the “Old Tea Horse Road;” eventu- Ningxia and the surrounding regions. and it’s very popular—both of which ally, all these factors evolved into the Puerh tea in particular represents a have resulted in dwindling supplies of “post-fermentation” process. This long significant proportion of the tea that old puerh, and it has become a rare process of post-fermentation reduces people drink from day to day. This ar- and valuable treasure. the irritating quality of newer puerh,

5/ Forest Prince (Sen Lin Wang Zi, 森林王子) Sheng Puerh giving it a rich, mellow liquor with a uniform aging of the tea. The other 茶 The Cultural Revolution Com- sweet aftertaste and a delightful aged Antique Era teas cannot compare in mittee Bricks made by the Hai facto- flavor and aroma. This results in a terms of quality, energy or flavor; Ke Yi ry during the 1960s and 1970s (sheng unique tea that becomes more fragrant Xing bricks have earned their nobility. tea) and more valuable with age. It’s just a pity that there are probably In the recorded history of tea bricks, no more than a few dozen bricks still 茶 The Cultural Revolution Commit- there is probably only one tea still in ex- in existence today; the market price is tee Bricks from the ’70s (shou tea) istence that dates to the period before approaching that of Fu Yuan Chang, a the China Tea Corporation was estab- tea that has borne the “King of Teas” 茶 The Date Fragrance Thick Bricks lished in 1938: the classic Ke Yi Xing title for a century. of the ’60s and ’70s (shou) Tea Bricks. Ke Yi Xing Tea Bricks are To celebrate the unique value of well known to today’s puerh tea enthu- Ke Yi Xing Tea Bricks, members of 茶 The Li Xing Long Tea Bricks of the siasts, with their glowing reputation as the Taiwanese tea industry made a his- ’70s (shou) the “King of Tea Bricks.” The owner of torical replica tea, specially producing The 7581 Tea Brick series from the brand, Mr. Zhou Wenqing (周文 a batch of 24,000 tea bricks to com- 茶 the 1970s 卿), is also somewhat of a legend; he memorate the tea’s 80th anniversary, us- and another of the previous generation ing manufacturing techniques equiv- 茶 ’73 Thick Bricks of puerh tea professionals, Hou Xing alent to those used for the original Tea Shop owner Mr. Li Fuyi (李拂一), version. Such replicas were common in 茶 ’73 Bricks were both influential figures in the the early 2000s. modern history of puerh tea in China. After the China Tea Corporation 茶 Cultural Revolution Yellow Paper Among all the countless tea bricks that established the Fohai Tea Factory, there Bricks we have had the chance to taste, not were very few tea bricks produced. one can compare to Ke Yi Xing Tea Some of the more well-known brands 茶 Cultural Revolution White Paper Bricks. Most notable is the extremely on the market include: Bricks

6 Tea of the Month These varieties were clearly already years, so it seems that the exact pro- that existed in 1997, there were prob- very numerous in the 1970s, not to duction year is fated to remain a mys- ably fewer than a thousand still in cir- mention the 1990s, by which point tery. When we went to the inaugural culation by the early 2000s. at least several hundred new types had International Puerh Tea Expo in Tai- emerged. pei, the tea connoisseurs present, who In the following pages, we will take were mostly from Taipei, were almost Li Xing利興隆磚 Long Bricks a closer look at ten of the most popular unanimous in their praise of these tea brick teas on the market. bricks. With their gentle, smooth li- Some of the history of this batch quor, the absence of any bitterness or of tea is recorded in a tea book called astringency and their rich date aroma, The Origins of Round and Square (方 they are a favorite with everyone. They 圓之緣). We will share some of our Date Aroma棗香厚磚 Thick Bricks are considered the most representative experience of this tea. At the time of example of shou tea bricks. Howev- the handover of Hong Kong in 1997, Some people claim that this batch er, Date Aroma Thick Bricks are now it was generally perceived as “border of tea bricks was made in ’57, others very scarce. In 1999, they had already tea (邊境茶)” (tea from Laos, Viet- say ’67, while still others say ’77. But reached a price of 3,000 New Taiwan nam or Mynmar or near the border, are they talking about years on the Dollars (NTD) per brick, and the pric- which is often regarded by tea lovers Roman calendar, or the Republic of es have just kept rising due to the im- as inferior in quality) and wasn’t held China calendar? (This calendar, largely balance of supply and demand. In the in very high regard, much like the used in Taiwan, counts years from the year 2000, one brick fetched 5,000; bitter Fu Lu Tribute Tea of the same establishment of the Republic of China in 2001 it had reached 8,000; and by era. However, touched by its innate in 1912. So, for example, the 56th year 2003, when they were becoming tru- quality and character, people began to of the Republic would indicate 1967). ly scarce, a single brick was selling for recognize it for the excellent brick tea It’s unclear which calendar they mean, 13,500 NTD. Of the reserves of more that it is, just like the ugly duckling and the two calendars differ by eleven than 10,000 Date Aroma Thick Bricks transforming into a beautiful swan.

可以興茶磚

Ke Yi Xing bricks (可以興茶磚) are the most famous puerh bricks of all time. This is the Antique Era (pre-1949) brick that everyone knows and wants. It was created prior to 1938, but the exact date is unknown. Ke Yi Xing Tea Bricks are well known to today’s puerh tea enthusiasts, with their glowing reputation as the “King of Tea Bricks.” The owner of the brand, Mr. Zhou Wenqing (周文卿), is also somewhat of a legend; he and another of the previous generation of puerh tea professionals, Hou Xing Tea Shop owner Mr. Li Fuyi (李拂一) were both influential figures in the modern history of puerh tea in China. This tea most likely came from the Yiwu region. It is most certainly old-growth, and from a time when the environment was truly pristine. This is one of the greatest teas we have ever drunk, and amongst the best that the Antique Era has to offer. The liquor is dark, spicy and earthy, with a Qi that lasts all day. Sadly, they have grown extremely expensive and rare. Even if one had the money, it would be very difficult to find one at all. They really are that rare. May you all try some one day!

7/ Forest Prince (Sen Lin Wang Zi, 森林王子) Sheng Puerh Each Li Xing Long Tea Brick weighs the palate. The liquor is a bright, clear, used to compress the tea and by how 300 grams rather than 250, much red color. It’s a great choice of tea for tightly the leaf was packed during the like Fu Lu Tribute Tea Bricks, which those who like shou puerh. post-fermentation process. Each brick each weigh 390–400 grams rath- is unique; the looser tea bricks produce er than 330–350 (in other words, a sweet liquor but are not very patient, both kinds are a bit heavier than the ’73 Thick七三厚磚 Bricks (7581) while the more tightly compressed norm). Why is this? It may have been bricks have a strong character and are to distinguish them from other teas, This batch of tea bricks is a mainstay very patient. The thicker bricks display or perhaps it was due to some factor of the puerh market. It’s an old tea and a strong date fragrance, while the thin- unique to the Fengshan tea region features several dozen different types ner ones have a rich ginseng aroma. (鳳山茶區); further research is need- of packaging, including waxed paper The market price of ’73 Thick ed to confirm this. Due to large-scale and yellow, white and mustard-yellow Bricks has changed significantly in the consumption, any remaining Fu Lu colored paper. Then there are also a last twenty years; a brick that previous- Tribute Tea and Li Xing Long Bricks number of dry-stored teas that lack a ly cost only a few hundred New Taiwan are on the verge of becoming the only particularly attractive appearance but Dollars could sell for more than 10,000 teas of their kind. In 1999, Fu Lu Trib- were stored in good, clean conditions; even in the early 2000s, and much ute Tea sold for 3,000 NTD per brick; these storage conditions have brought more now. The prices of these teas vary, these days the price is twelve times out aged, ginseng and date aromas in mainly based on the thickness and as high. As for genuine, 300-gram Li the tea. Each individual drinker per- condition of the tea brick and the col- Xing Long bricks, in the past six years ceives this aged tea flavor slightly dif- or of the characters on the packaging. their price has risen dramatically. In ferently. These tea bricks vary in thick- Of all the brick teas, ’73 Thick Bricks terms of flavor, Li Xing Long is a very ness by about three to five centimeters have the most inconsistent pricing, patient tea with no bitterness or astrin- depending on how tightly contracted mainly because there are so many imi- gency; it is mellow with an aged aro- the leaf is; this variation was like- tation products out there. Finding the ma—smooth, sweet and refreshing on ly caused by the weight of the molds real thing will likely require some skill. Tea of the Month Our advice is to first have a sniff of the classic example of Cultural Revolution Fangcun, Guangzhou Province, it even outer wrapper; after unwrapping the tea bricks. The differences in flavor and exceeds it. This reflects a prevailing -at tea, only those teas whose fragrance price for this batch of tea bricks are due titude of valuing aged teas very highly; lasts about an hour are worth tasting. to the quality of storage conditions. In the general opinion seems to be that These bricks are a good representative Hong Kong’s underground warehouses old, well-preserved teas are the only for teas made using the wo dui (渥堆) of that era, the conditions varied wild- truly great teas. heaping process, with a sweet liquor, a ly depending on whether the tea was strong aged aroma and no bitterness. stored at the bottom, middle or top They are a fine choice for those who of the warehouse, so it’s important to 七五六二/三 enjoy shou teas. be aware of this when choosing tea to 7562 & 7563 Bricks purchase. There is a detailed account of 7562 The most popular of these bricks Bricks in Professor Deng Shi Hai’s on the market are probably the 7581 文革磚茶 (鄧時海) famous tea book, Puerh Tea Cultural Revolution Bricks from the mid-to-late Cultural (普洱茶). But because there are so Revolution era. Of all the brands from Tea Bricks (7581) few authentic 7562 Bricks left, there’s Hong Kong, Taiwan, mainland China a huge number of imitation versions The Cultural Revolution in China and Macau, there are probably very on the market. According to our ob- lasted for ten years—from 1967 to few that can beat these bricks in terms servations, authentic 7562 Brick teas 1977. Most of the tea bricks from a of quality, price, or its aged, fragrant probably make up less than 1% of the period of around fifteen years encom- character, flavor and spirit. This is be- teas being sold as such! In 1995, it sold passing that decade are called “Cul- cause although this tea was produced very cheaply, so much of it was drunk tural Revolution Bricks.” There are in large quantities towards the end of shortly after being released. By 2002, nearly a hundred different variations the Cultural Revolution, it was kept in when the Chinese market began to in packaging, including early-period, exceptionally clean storage conditions; heat up, there were probably scarcely mid-period and late-period variants. so in terms of character and flavor, it a few hundred bricks left in reserve. Within each of these categories, the can be considered a representative tea In 2001, the price for one brick was aroma of the teas also varies, from an of its era. In Taiwan and Hong Kong, 6,000 New Taiwan Dollars, and by “aged” fragrance, to aromas of ginseng, the price even comes close to the price 2004 they were selling for more than dates or lotus. We can share the most of ‘73 Thick Bricks; in Shanghai and 12,000 a piece. They are crazy-expensive nowadays! From our experience with 7562 Bricks, we would describe These ’73 thick paper bricks have been a mainstay of aged puerh lovers for de- them using two words: highly variable. cades. They used to be very cheap in Taiwan, but have grown expensive, like all Then we have 7563 Bricks, which aged tea. There are several dozen different types of packaging, including waxed have one of the most entertaining paper and yellow, white and mustard-yellow colored paper. They are often great backstories of all the teas on the mar- choices for the shou lover. ket. The story of this tea’s packaging became the source of great mirth around many a tea table thanks to a blunder by a Hong Kong tea merchant by the name of Mr. Wang. The number 3 at the end of the 7563 Brick serial number represents the Xiaguan Factory; however, in 1993, Mr. Wang had no idea of this, given that knowledge of puerh in 磚 Hong Kong was limited prior to the handover back to mainland China in 1997, at which point Taiwanese merchants began sharing their knowledge in Hong Kong. In 1993, the market was just beginning to take off, and Mr. Wang was promoting a tea called Ten- der Bud Golden Bricks (at the time, one of these bricks cost 200 Hong Kong Dollars; by 1997 the price had reached 1,000 HKD a brick; and by 2002 in Taipei they were selling for nearly 20,000 NTD). Thinking he was making a clever move, Mr. Wang removed the original wrappers from

9/ Forest Prince (Sen Lin Wang Zi, 森林王子) Sheng Puerh The uppermost brick shown here is a Jiangcheng tea brick, as discussed on p. 13. The lower right bricks are more modern, wild sheng puerh teas from Yiwu Mountain. The left two wrapped bricks are Xiaguan bricks as discussed on p. 12. his reserve of several thousand bricks have just about reached the equivalent wrapping include white, yellow, mus- that were similar to the Tender Bud price in Chinese yuan. They produce a tard-yellow and brown. Some versions Golden Bricks, and replaced them mellow and refreshing liquor that ap- have horizontal stripes, while some with the 7563 wrappers that we see on peals to lovers of both sheng and shou have vertical ones. There are certainly the market. Not long afterwards, Mr. puerh, since it combines the fresh cam- some imitation versions, and these teas Wang told me that he had made a big phor fragrance of a sheng tea with the can also be classified into early, mid mistake in doing this, as right around sweet smoothness of a shou tea. and late-period. However, no matter that time the price of tea bricks from the age or the authenticity of the tea, Taiwan in their original packaging had tasting the tea is really the only prop- risen to around 300 Hong Kong Dol- French外銷法國盒磚 Export Bricks er way to evaluate it. Our suggestion lars a brick, but since he had removed is to first open the box and have a the original wrappers, no one wanted Puerh tea has a long history of ex- sniff of the tea; it should have a strong to buy the tea bricks anymore. So he port sales in France. In 1985, a French aged aroma reminiscent of ginseng. put the bricks back into storage, and medical team conducted clinical trials This indicates that it’s a good tea and the whole situation turned out to be a involving puerh, which goes to show worthy of a test brew. When you do blessing in disguise; after the handover that this tea already had a certain the test brew, the flavor and fragrance of Hong Kong in 1997, he was able amount of influence in the daily lives should have a natural grace to them, to sell the bricks for nearly twice the of the French. These bricks are most and the liquor should be a bright, clear original price. To commemorate this likely the only exported puerh bricks red with a strong ginseng aroma and a tea, he simply named it “7563;” in his still in circulation. Because these teas pleasant, long-lasting aftertaste. (Also, words, this tea had even greater “depth have spent a long time in storage and see our Ten Qualities of a Fine Tea.) It’s of spirit” than 7562 tea, so it was quite traveled long distances, there is some a great choice of tea for those who like logical to add one to the last number of variation in the colors of the outer box- shou puerh. In 2004, in Shanghai and the code and call it “7563 Tender Bud es. There are six different brands that Guangzhou these French-boxed tea Golden Bricks.” At the International can be found on the boxes, probably bricks were selling for around 1,200– Puerh Tea Expo in 2002 they fetched due to differences between tea batch- 1,800 Chinese yuan. Nowadays, they a price of 2,800 New Taiwan Dollars, es or the agents who were involved are much more. (We quit checking and recently in mainland China they in their sale. The colors of the paper prices on aged bricks in 2004/5.)

10 Tea of the Month Fangcha 方磚 In the late ’70s and early ’80s, the in 1992, which come in several ver- The most distinctive characteristics of Menghai Tea Factory started produc- sions: the Square Tea edition, the Pea- these two batches of tea are that they ing 100-gram and 250-gram Square cock edition and the Blank Space edi- retain a subtle bitterness and astringen- Bricks. These teas are mostly made tion. When choosing one of these teas, cy; the liquor is a yellowish-red (due to from sheng puerh. They are stamped it’s best to taste a brew before buying. the dry storage conditions during ag- on the front with the characters for Another type of Square Brick tea is ing), and after brewing the leaf remains “Puerh Square Tea (puerh fangcha, the large 250-gram bricks produced in red with a hint of green. It’s bursting 普洱方茶)’” and on the back they 1987, which are on par with the 1992 with the liveliness of a sheng tea, and are stamped with a nine-square grid Square Bricks. There are a huge num- it has a vegetal aroma with a hint of pattern (giving them the nickname ber of teas out there similar to these camphor. This tea is a future star and “chocolate bricks”) as well as the Eight- two; there are some shou teas that crop is worth keeping in storage for further Zhong tea logo. The bricks that are up, as well as some second-rate teas put aging. However, these teas are getting currently held in the highest regard are into storage for aging and some imi- better every year, and many people are the 100-gram Square Bricks produced tation teas packaged in genuine boxes. starting to break into their stashes.

Above are more ’73 Thick Paper bricks and a Cultural Revolution 7581 on the right side with the darker paper. In front is a French Export Brick. To the left is a 1980s fangcha we have here at the Center, surrounded by our Tea of the Month, which is a fangcha as well. The cake shown in front is what is left of the 1980s version. It is amazing! To the right, from top to bottom, we have the Wild “Native” Tea Tree Brick 250- gram, and beneath it the 500-gram version. Then we have the 250-gram and 100-gram fangcha bricks discussed above. The brick on the left side with the nei fei showing is the Youle brick discussed on the following page. These are all amongst the most famous aged bricks of puerh to be found in the markets of Taiwan, Hong Kong and China.

11/ Forest Prince (Sen Lin Wang Zi, 森林王子) Sheng Puerh The Xiaguan Series 下關磚茶系列 These tea bricks come in “net con- the leaf of Menghai teas. There are a this tea has a stronger, purer camphor tent (淨含量)” and “net weight (淨重 countless number of such late-period aroma than the two aforementioned 版)” editions. The difference in char- teas on the market, so the only way teas. It’s a smooth, patient tea with a acter between the two versions is quite to make sure you choose a top-qual- quickly emerging sweet aftertaste, and significant due to the quality of storage ity product is to taste a lot of them. it stimulates a lot of salivation. The conditions during aging. Those stored Another batch of tea bricks that are outer packaging already bears traces of in clean conditions have a bright, clear very representative of the Xiaguan Tea aging, and every brick contains a nei red liquor with a strong camphor ele- Factory’s brick teas are Baoyuan Tea fei (內飛) or “inner trademark ticket.” ment to its flavor; it has a very sweet Bricks (寶燄茶磚), which are a sin- According to Hong Kong’s tea mer- aftertaste and stimulates plenty of gle-leaf blend made from old-growth chants, it was sold all over the world, salivation. The tea leaves post-brew- tea. This tea was taken out of storage with the largest volume going to Can- ing reveal that this tea is made up at the time of the Hong Kong hando- ada, the second-largest going to South of grade 2–3 brick tea, and they are ver in 1997, and there was only quite a Korea and a small amount making its even smaller, thinner and firmer than small volume of it. In our experience, way over to Taiwan.

透過時友間和空誼間茶傳之承下磚來鋪路 12 Tea of the Month Jiangcheng江城茶磚 Tea Bricks

Whether or not Jiangcheng Tea throughout Yunnan, can be difficult to est rates, and with the whole of Chi- Bricks actually come from the place produce a fine tea, especially an organ- na developing so rapidly, commodity named “Jiangcheng (江城)” is an on- ic one. However, mindset is an essen- prices will certainly continue to rise going mystery. In the 1940s and 1950s, tial part of tea making; provided that quickly. In addition, the Chinese pol- Jiangcheng Tea Cakes (round, discus- one is personally involved in the whole icy of transitioning from state-owned shaped bing) began to circulate; by process and really immerses oneself to privately-owned enterprises will 1999 they were selling for 18,000 New in it, producing tea using traditional undoubtedly influence the economy, Taiwan Dollars a cake, and by 2000 this methods can be a joyful experience. and we are bound to see even greater had risen to 22,000 NTD. In 2003, Some of the better-known examples fluctuations in commodity prices in when there was a collecting frenzy of these tea bricks include 50-gram the near future. Based on our rough among South Korean monks, the price “Chocolate” Bricks, 250-gram Yiwu analysis of the data, the privatization in Taiwan had risen to 60,000 NT a Wild Tea Bricks, Jin Wang brand Youle of China’s industries has certainly re- cake—this was enough to make many Bricks and the 2003 Wild Tea Brick sulted in worker salaries increasing un- people in the industry reluctant to buy series, mostly from the Old Six Great der the influence of the price index, so them. On April 15th, 2004, in Fang- Tea Mountains. The main characteris- it goes without saying that the cost of cun, Guangzhou, a Jiangcheng Tea tics that these teas have in common are production and materials has likewise Bing weighing 316 grams sold for the that they are limited in quantity, pure been affected. grand total of 23,000 Chinese yuan. It in flavor and are not yet in circulation. The ten teas that we have chosen to remains unknown whether Jiangcheng Because these are masterpiece-level highlight above are simply a represen- Tea Bricks and Jiangcheng Tea Bing teas, the majority are snapped up by tative selection of tea brick trends, and were both being produced during the collectors as soon as they hit the mar- not in any way exhaustive. We certain- same period; however, according to our ket. While we’re on this topic, by the ly hope that others will point out and experience, and the opinions offered in way, old-growth tea bricks are gener- forgive any omissions or differences of various books, we do know that Jiang- ally very popular; we believe that most opinion. Our hope in sharing this is cheng Tea Bricks were likely produced savvy tea collectors share the opinion simply to share our firsthand experi- after the 1970s. When brewed, this tea that stockpiling tea is even better than ence with tea bricks and tea brick cul- has a rich, full-bodied camphor aroma saving up money. This is because we ture in mainland China, Hong Kong, and a translucent reddish liquor whose are now living in an era of low inter- Taiwan and Macau. color is quite reminiscent of barbecue sauce. After brewing, the leftover leaf is quite uniform, with large, plump leaves. There is a wide variety of sim- Bricks of hearth and home ilar large-leaf tea bricks on the market, Compel the long ride so when choosing a tea to purchase, be sure to have a smell of the tea first. Across windswept prairies It should have a pure aged tea aroma, To warm yurts and the leaf should be fully oxidized/ And a steaming bowl fermented. Jiangcheng brick tea has a lovely, long-lasting fragrance when Welcoming you home... brewed, enduring whether the tea is Bricks of peace hot or cool. In bamboo forests creaking While monks chant the pines 原生種喬木系列磚茶 Wandering inner fields... Wild “Native” Tea Tree Bricks of inspiration Brick Series Watched over idly Production of “Tea Tree” bricks By top-knotted scholars didn’t begin until the post-’90s era. Debating the sagacity of old After the puerh boom began, many in- Contemplating the brushstrokes dustry professionals threw themselves into producing tea bricks using tradi- Of landscape scenes tional methods. There were tea bricks Reflected in this very bowl of all shapes and sizes, ranging from And the bricks of friendship 50 grams, 100 grams and 250 grams, That have been shared up to 375 and 500 grams. (Most of them were sheng tea, and emphasis Along this ancient road... was placed on old growth trees.) From our experience traveling extensively –Wu De 13/ Forest Prince (Sen Lin Wang Zi, 森林王子) Sheng Puerh

Tea of the Month

Brewing沖泡技巧完成好Tips茶 Lao Banzhang tea is notoriously strong, vibrant and full-bodied with a slightly sweet aftertaste. This month’s tea is astringent and bitter if you steep it too long or put too much leaf in the pot. Of course, the best of this tea will shine when brewed gongfu, but you can also brew it sidehandle to great effect. Just be conscious of how much you add, knowing that less is more. You can always add more leaf, but it’s a waste to take some out, so try putting in less than what you are used to (unless you like your puerh strong). This month, water will also be paramount to making this tea shine. You will want to use the best water you have access to—preferably spring water you gather yourself, but you can use a fine bottled water as well. Try tasting a few different types to find the best if you haven’t already. Water that is good for tea should have a pH of around 7 and also include some minerals, though ideally not too hard with limestone or calcium, which influence the tea and also build up on one’s teaware. The best water for tea is smooth in your mouth like almond milk. When you roll it around your mouth, it should stay together and have a nice viscosity. It should not pinch the throat when it is swallowed, and should coat the mouth and throat, leaving your mouth comfortable after swallowing. The best spring waters also quench thirst very easily. Even on a hot day when we hike up the mountain to get our spring water for tea, a small metal cup’s worth is more than enough to quench the thirst. Guests at the Center are always amazed by this, and by how sensitive they are to the way the water fills the body. Many say that they can feel their cells taking it in. With good clean water and some nice teaware, you can make an excellent and vibrant cup or bowl of this month’s amazing tea. But you will also have to pay attention to steeping time. In the quick tips below, you will see that many months we talk about “flash” steepings. A flash steeping is an instant one, where you decant the tea as soon as possible. There is a general formula—which only goes so far, of course—that the first steeping is longer to let the leaves open, followed by a flash steeping, and then increased duration throughout the rest of the steepings of the session. With fine teas, you can get two or even three flash steepings after the initial slightly longer one. Some very excellent teas even go so far as four or five flash steepings. We can get four out of our best cake this year, Righteousness, for example. With our Tea of the Month, we recommend doing a longer rinse before you even start steeping, as the leaves are tightly compressed and the tea is strong. Some tea lovers suggest not rinsing tea, especially fine teas, as they feel it wastes the first steeping. Rinsing the tea cleans off the dust of its journey—both literal and energetic. Like all things Tea, it has both practical and ceremonial significance. It purifies the Tea for a ceremony as water does for people before entering ceremonial space. Perhaps the ceremonial significance of this is not so important to you, and you don’t mind the literal dust and dirt of the farm and journey to you, and you would rather skip this step. For us, the ceremonial significance is very important. Rinsing the tea also wakes the leaves up and prepares them for steeping, making the first steeping better for your guests. With a fine tea, the practicality of this may be mitigated by the preciousness of the tea, in which case some people may choose to forgo the rinse. However, aside from the fact that we greatly value the ceremonial significance of purifying the tea, so to speak, before the ceremony begins, we also like the first cup to be great, starting the session off right from the get-go. Awakened, opened leaves release their fragrance and aroma much better. Also, if you think about it, the awakening and revivification of the tea leaves also has a deeper meaning, and can therefore be a part of how we think of this step ceremonially.

Gongfu Sidehandle

Water : spring water or best bottled Be very careful of amount Fire: coals, infrared or gas this month. Forest Prince is Heat: hotter, fish-eye, roughly 90–95 °C very bold, astringent and Brewing Methods: gongfu or bitter. Less is more! You can sidehandle tea (both are great) always add more leaves if Steeping: longer, flash, flash, flash; then in- you like your tea stron- crease (you may flash once for sidehandle) ger, whereas taking Patience: twenty to thirty steepings them out is a waste.

15/ Forest Prince (Sen Lin Wang Zi, 森林王子) Sheng Puerh

Lao Banzhang 老班章

18 The Prince of Yunnan Lao Banzhang puerh tea has become synonymous with puerh tea itself. The village itself has been affected by tremendous 雲 change more than any other region in Yunnan. What was once a simple, inaccessible mountain village has been ushered into 南 the modern age at an incredible velocity. The positive and neg- ative impacts of this rapid growth are a lesson for all tea lovers, 的 as we are, in the end, the ones who consume the tea and drive 王 the market. We have to protect the tea trees, the farmers and the culture of the regions where our beloved Leaf grows. 子

茶人: Luo Ying Yin (羅英銀)

ack in the year 2000, Lao Ban- flavor, as does each mountain within tea. In 1988, the Hai tea factory plant- zhang tea only cost eight yuan Yunnan. Thanks to Lao Banzhang’s ro- ed more than 10,000 mu (around 667 B per kilogram. Since then, prices bust and distinctive old-tree character, hectares) of tea in Ka’nan, and in 2005, have been steadily climbing; in 2007, it has been hailed among all the puerh the same factory produced a special the price had risen to 1,800 yuan per tea mountains as “King Banzhang.” batch of Banzhang “Seven Sons” tea kilogram before falling somewhat. In Just as Longjing tea has come to repre- cakes (Chi Tze Bing, 七子餅). the intervening years it has more or less sent green tea in general, and Da Hong Ever since the market began hailing doubled each year; this year’s spring Pao is the embodiment of Wuyi Cliff Lao Banzhang as tea royalty, villag- tea reached a price of 12,000 yuan per Tea, so too has Lao Banzhang become es with historical connections to the kilogram. In the space of about four- a synonym for puerh tea on today’s tea also began to bask in the reflected teen years, the price of Lao Banzhang market. glory. It’s said that in 1476, the Aini tea increased a thousand-fold. The Everyone eagerly trumpets the name people—the ancestors of the Hani in- prices of other teas haven’t even come of Banzhang tea, but where should we habitants of today’s Lao Banzhang— close to this astonishing increase: not draw the line in determining its actual migrated there from Mount Gelanghe. Red Mark, not the ’92 Square Brick place and village of origin? Some peo- At the time, the Lao Man’e people were tea, nor the ’88 Green Cakes. And ple take a broad view and call all tea living there; in other words, members when tea prices climb to the sky, vis- from Mount Blang Banzhang tea; oth- of the Blang ethnic group had already itors climb the tea mountains. In this ers also use the Banzhang name for tea been living in the area since the year small village of about 500 Hani people from Lao Man’e, while some call the 300 CE, planting forests and tea trees in 120 households, the villagers experi- tea from Weidong Village Dong Ban- and cultivating the land. Later, this enced a massive change in lifestyle due zhang (East Banzhang) tea. Banzhang piece of land was ceded to the Aini to this unexpected windfall of wealth, belongs to a group of villages situated people. This is why, from the time that with the substantial change in material on Mount Blang in Hai County, part the Aini people built their own village conditions putting their spirit and val- of the Xishuangbanna Dai Autono- there until the late 1990s, each year the ues to the test. mous Prefecture in Yunnan Province. Aini people would give grain and live- There’s a saying that goes: “With It comprises two villages inhabited by stock to the people of Lao Man’e Vil- wine, we talk about the vineyard; with the Hani people, Xin (New) Banzhang lage as a fee for leasing the land, and to puerh, we talk about the mountain.” and Lao (Old) Banzhang. As well as express their thanks for the Blang peo- The concept of terroir orshan tou (山 these two villages, the local village ple’s kindness. This also explains why 頭)—literally “mountaintop”—when committee located at Xin Banzhang the village of Lao Banzhang is only discussing puerh has slowly become Village also has jurisdiction over three around 500 years old, while some of more clearly defined since the year other villages, namely Lao Man’e, Ka- the old tea trees are over one thousand. 2000. Yunnan’s unique geography and long and Ka’nan. Hence, any tea from These old trees are why this place is so climate give puerh tea its own special within this region is called Banzhang special and well known.

20 Lao Banzhang

The upper left is an old film photograph of the gate to the entrance of Lao Banzhang village from the early 2000s, with a dirt road and very simple sur- rounds. The author gave us this quaint photograph to suggest change. Above is Lao Banzhang maocha drying in the sun as you see in any village throughout Yunnan. Nowadays, much more of the tea is processed in the factory. To the left is a large one-kilogram ball of Lao Banzhang tea Wu De picked up when he went there in 2005. Large balls like this were common in ancient times, but require too much effort to make nowadays, as the tea has to be dried and compressed in stages so that the inside does not rot. The Starry-Sky pot gives a sense of scale. To the right, a Hani elder picks tea from one of the 800-year-old tea trees that surround Lao Banzhang, and from which its fame is derived.

Lao Banzhang has gone through The landscape of Mount Blang fea- From that time, the price of Lao Ban- two significant migrations throughout tures tall mountain ranges crisscrossed zhang tea expanded along with the its history. The first was around sixty by deep ravines; ease of transport be- road, surging along wave by wave just years ago, when part of the popula- came the driving force behind progress like the traffic. tion moved about seven kilometers, for the mountain villages. In the ear- The people in those fleets of cars settling at “Xin (New) Banzhang,” ly days, the people of Lao Banzhang that wind their way along the hills are while the original village got the name were quite isolated from the rest of the all attracted by the distinctive bold- “Lao (Old) Banzhang.” Then, around world; following the construction of a ness of Lao Banzhang tea, or by the forty years ago, part of Lao Banzhang road connecting the village to the out- sweet aftertaste that emerges from its Village split off into another village side world in 2002, the villagers who bitter flavor. I think Chinese people around forty kilometers away, named once remained hidden away deep in are quite fond of flavors that combine “Weidong Village” (which is governed the mountains all year long gradually bitter and sweet, such as green tea. For by the Kan Village committee under opened up a new path for the local this reason, northern China has be- the Ang Village government office, and tea industry. The unique character of come a major new market for puerh was also called “Kan” in the past.) Be- the tea also gained recognition in the tea; people are already accustomed to cause tea trees were not worth much at outside world, and its value gradually the bitterness of green tea. As for Lao the time and the new settlement was a became apparent. In 2008, the Chen- Banzhang, after its initial bitter flavor, long way away, the people of Weidong sheng Tea Factory invested one million as the tea liquor slides over the tongue Village gave up their tea gardens at Lao yuan to improve the main road into and toward the back of the throat, an Banzhang and planted new tea near Banzhang Village for about eight kilo- enchanting sugar-sweetness emerges. their new home, where it was easier to meters, making the route to and from This is also what makes this place so harvest. the village even smoother than before. special and the tea so great.

21/ The Prince of Yunnan 22 Lao Banzhang

According to surveys, Lao Ban- I’ve been going to Lao Banzhang defined. The unique, old-tree aroma of zhang’s old tea trees cover a total area every year since 2007; at the time of Lao Banzhang propelled it to the top of 4,490 mu (close to 300 hectares). the puerh tea crash, in the early years, place in the market. Around 80,000 of the tea trees are I watched the Chensheng Tea Factory This year when I visited Lao Ban- more than 100 years old; 27,664 trees head back to the village to purchase tea zhang again, young village head Gao are more than 500 years old and 9,412 at a guaranteed price. I remember the Xiaocheng pointed out that the village of them have lived for more than 800 warm hospitality of village heads San is currently home to 128 households, years. In 1999, all the old tea trees were Pa and Yang Weijie as they personally a total population of 540. Around sev- divided among the local population cooked a meal for the guests. In 2009, enty of the households have been con- according to the 117 households living the Chensheng Tea Factory built a pri- tracted by the Chensheng Tea Factory there at the time; on average each per- mary processing facility at Lao Ban- for five consecutive years. One person son was allocated around 100 old trees. zhang, guiding processing techniques can harvest 20 kilograms of tea, so a The thirty or so areas of old tea trees in the right direction and improving family of four would take in a total of border the main road that circles the the quality of primary tea processing 80 kilograms of raw leaf. He also re- village for a distance of about eight ki- in the village. People came from all lated that he feels somewhat helpless lometers. With the old village nestled over to harvest the tea, and with the as the village head, because he has to in the middle, it makes for a beautiful increased standards and learning that spend every day accompanying guests; tea mountain scene. This has changed, resulted, the Lao Banzhang tea buds they get a lot of politicians visiting, with wires now criss-crossing the land- grew plump and sturdy, the shape of which means that they also have to scape. the processed leaves neat and clearly gift a lot of tea in the name of public

23/ The Prince of Yunnan relations. This means that out of every brought real happiness. I am worried peaceful village houses of dark-colored 100 kilograms of tea produced, there about the future generations.” As this wood are now a thing of the past. Tea are usually only about 30 kilograms involves all Chajin who love puerh, I once gave soul to their ancestors, but left to sell. He also added that these couldn’t help but feel the same way, will it also steal away the souls of their days, the villagers would barely bat wondering what I would find when I descendants? What I do know is that an eyelid at a windfall of 7,000 yuan; visit Lao Banzhang in ten years. Will these days when you enter the old vil- if they make 70,000, they might feel the people have any of their culture lage, the coldness of the atmosphere some small satisfaction. The income left? Will the next generation make spreads over the whole valley; no lon- from one year of tea sales is enough to better tea, or worse? And will the hos- ger can you hear the warm voices of buy a house in Hai County, and peo- pitality be gone from these mountains? times gone by, calling out to cordially ple are now used to spending money What about the trees themselves? Will offer a cup of tea. without thinking, buying clothes for any of the old trees that have afforded their children anywhere that seems ex- the villagers their wealth remain or will pensive. It was impossible to recapture they be forgotten or even lost in all the the simple joy of his childhood, when clamor? they would throw on any old clothes “Green gold” has brought the peo- and go out to tend the cattle. “Things ple of Lao Banzhang stylish villas and were simpler then,” he says. “We may their children brand new clothes and not have had so much, or been so rich, shoes. On the other hand, the bright but I am not sure all this prosperity has gazes of the villagers and the simple yet

24 Xin “New”

Banzhang茶人: Luo Ying Yin (羅英銀) 新班章

ime changes all things. In (about 87 hectares). The tea gardens of the population once more moved recent years, puerh tea prices grow intermingled with the broad-leaf from “Old” Banzhang back to what is have been on the rise; for the forest, which provides plenty of shade now “New” Banzhang (which was still Tvillagers of Xin (New) Banzhang, this cover, producing plump, glossy leaves. called “Zhinian Village” at the time). stirs up a host of emotions. Half a cen- The village of Xin Banzhang has about So, as the village elders like to point tury ago, they left their original homes 400 residents, making up seventy-odd out, although Xin Banzhang Village in Lao (Old) Banzhang and settled households. has “New” in its name, when you look near the local government offices at The twofold price difference -be at the relevant history, it is in fact older Mount Blang Village in search of more tween tea from the Xin Banzhang than the “Old” Lao Banzhang Village. convenient living conditions and bet- and Lao Banzhang Villages does carry Aside from Xin Banzhang and Lao ter transport access. Everyone in the a sense of disparity for the people of Banzhang, there’s another nearby place area knows Xin Banzhang as the loca- Xin Banzhang. Whenever outside vis- called Banzhang Old Village (Ban- tion of the local village committee, the itors come to the village, the residents zhang Laozhai, 班章老寨). The tea seat of the administrative district that of Xin Banzhang throw themselves mountain there is called “Guxiang Vil- governs Lao Banzhang and Lao Man’e. enthusiastically into recounting the lage Tea Mountain (古祥鋪存茶山).” But when it comes to puerh tea, Xin eventful history of New and Old Ban- In 1968, the population of Banzhang Banzhang is a long way from catching zhang. According to records, The an- Old Village moved to Xin Banzhang, up with the glorious reputation of Lao cestors of the Hani people first settled and from that point the tea mountain Banzhang and Lao Man’e. in the area in 1852, though the Hani that they originally tended belonged to Standing at the edge of Lao Ban- say their ancestors, the Aini, arrived in the people of New Banzhang. zhang’s glowing aura, Xin Banzhang the fifteenth century, as I mentioned There are no written records of all only fetches half its price on today’s in the previous article. They would go this; the people of Banzhang rely on market. It’s very uncommon to see the on to endure natural disasters and the the spoken word to pass down their characters “Xin Banzhang (新班章)” chaos of wartime, settling in some thir- history through the generations. These printed on the packaging of brand- teen different areas including Shuguo snippets of history, such as the verita- name round puerh tea cakes. Rather, Village and Maya Village before finally ble word game behind the names of most of the raw leaf is marketed un- ending up in Zhinian Village, which New and Old Banzhang, sketch the der the name of “Lao Banzhang (老班 is the same place that we now call Xin outline of the long history of the Hani 章),” or simply “Banzhang.” Banzhang. people. It’s a good thing that the rising The villages of Xin Banzhang and Later, in 1943, the Hani people prices of Banzhang tea have drawn the Lao Banzhang are both inhabited began a new migration, with a small attention of outside enthusiasts and by the Hani people, and are situat- part of the population moving to Zuo- tea experts; without their interest and ed about seven kilometers from each ban Village, which is what we now research, who else would have brushed other. The old-growth tea tree com- call Lao (Old) Banzhang Village. Ac- the dust off these fascinating oral his- munities spread out densely across cording to the village elders, today’s tories and brought them into the view the slopes alongside the old road to Xin Banzhang Village got the “Xin” of the world? Lao Banzhang. The tea plants cover (“New”) part of its name from a final a total land area of around 1,300 mu wave of migration in 1968, where part

Gongfu Teapot 功夫茶壺

The Shape of the Teapot 茶人: Shen Su (聖素)

his month, I wanted try a rity in which this brewing method has more likely to protect and respect it— new experiment. Noticing the been handed down from generation to be it tea, water, food, family heritage, unique shape of this month’s generation. When we say “gongfu tea,” etc. So, in doing experiments, we de- Ttea brick, I thought it would be fun to we are referring to a regional tea brew- velop respect for this rich brewing experiment with the shape of teapots. I ing tradition in the south of China, method. As a result, we greatly benefit always knew that the shape of a teapot primarily from Chaozhou. This will from everything gongfu tea has to offer was relevant when making tea because help us distinguish it from very differ- in its pure form and feel a great sense I’ve compared a porcelain teapot to a ent methods of brewing tea that adhere of responsibility when passing it on or porcelain gaiwan, made of exactly the to the same name, which is confusing sharing it with other tea lovers. As well, same porcelain. In fact, they were fired in conversation, so we make this clar- as an individual, you can learn to refine in the same kiln at the same time! The ification to communicate more clear- your palate and appreciate the sub- only difference, therefore, was in the ly. By doing experiments, we build an tler qualities of a fine cup of tea. This shape because the material was the evidence-based foundation and begin heightened sensitivity and refined pal- same. Furthermore, any differences to understand why we are doing what ate help you to connect to tea through in the tea were therefore due to that we’re doing, and that meaning con- yet another avenue. difference in shape. For this experi- nects us to each step. It also prevents On a final note, from a deep re- ment, however, I wanted to test differ- us from randomly changing any steps spect for this brewing method, there ent-shaped gongfu teapots made of the of this roughly three-hundred-year-old really is no excuse to make random same purple-sand clay. Fortunately, we brewing method because it’s clear from changes to such an old tradition. Of have such teapots at Tea Sage Hut! the experiments (and the tests of time) course, there is no “right” or “wrong” As always, we like to remind the that they are here for a good reason. A way to make tea. Tea should ultimately reader that gongfu tea experiments are deeper lesson here is that any time we be enjoyed as a leisurely activity that very important in this tradition of tea. get closer to the source of something, brings you joy and a moment’s peace They are largely responsible for the pu- we feel more connected to it, and are in a day, and that can be achieved with

27 the simplest of teaware and an open this brewing method in its pure form. within the framework of their own heart. However, because our primary Changes to a three-hundred-year-old body. However, because you will likely approach to tea is as a Dao or Way of brewing method that make a better be using different pots than the ones Life, and because we are lineage bear- cup of tea will only arise from a deep we are using, we will reveal our results ers, it is also our responsibility to teach connection to the Spirit of gongfu tea. in the conclusion. gongfu tea as it was handed down to More important than the change is the As I said earlier, we don’t ordi- us. Many good adaptations have been deep connection. In such a pursuit to narily discuss the conclusions to any made to this brewing method over deeply connect to tea, let this experi- experiments we offer in the “Gongfu time, but what does “good” mean? It ment be one of many steps to come as Teapot” section of the magazine, as means an adaption that facilitates the we walk this path of tea together. we want you to do the experiments function of the brewing method itself. At our school of tea, we are quite yourself rather than taking our word In an educational setting, it is safe to abundant in tea and teaware to use for for it. Experiential understanding is say that the function of gongfu tea is educational purposes, such as these ex- important. These rare instances where about brewing the finest cup of tea periments. It was no problem, then, to there is a good reason to show you our possible. But what does “finest” mean? find three pots made of the same clay observations and conclusions are also That is based on theTen Qualities of but which are very different in shape. useful, however, as they give you a a Fine Tea, covered in many previous You are welcome to perform this ex- glimpse into the things we are looking Global Tea Hut issues. Therefore, any periment by using your own pots of for when conducting our experiments. changes that do naturally arise (as they a different shape to see what the ef- You may or may not want to structure should in a living tradition) should fects are. Usually we don’t give away your notes as I have, but I do recom- go towards making a better cup of the results in our conclusion because mend creating a system of some kind tea, and the only way to discern that we feel it’s important and fun for each and then following it throughout the is through experimentation and more individual to carry out the experiment experiment, and from experiment to importantly, decades of dedication to and observe the differences themselves, experiment if possible.

28 Gongfu Teapot

The Set Up

For this experiment, I used three purple-sand clay teapots: the “Duo Qiu (掇球),” or “Chopped Ball” teapot, the wonderful “Ju Lun Zhu (巨輪珠),” or “Wagon Wheel” pot and the “Meng Chen Pear Style (孟臣梨式),” all of which can be seen in our September 2017 Extended Edition on Yixing Teaware. Each teapot rested in a purple-sand clay tea boat. You likely won’t have these exact same pots, so as mentioned above, please use any pots with differing shapes that you have access to. It is important to note that the clay of these pots is the same, meaning that it is the shape that is responsible for any observable differences. This is relevant, of course, because gongfu tea is in large part about brewing the finest cup of tea possible, and if shape can be considered to make a better cup of tea, then it should be! I used one of the Light Meets Life kettles to boil spring water over an infrared heat source. I weighed three grams of this month’s tea per teapot and used modern porcelain gongfu cups for tasting the tea.

Procedure

There are at least two ways to conduct this experiment. The easiest way would be to steep the tea in each pot separately and focus on one pot at a time by drinking the tea from one pot, taking notes and then repeating with the second and third pot. But I wanted to drink the tea from all three pots at the same time. This method took some timing to get it just right. I needed a stopwatch to time it accurately, to make sure each pot steeped for exactly the same amount of time. I discovered that knowing how long it takes in seconds to shower the pot, steep the tea, and post shower the pot was most relevant for timing accurately. I found that it took precisely eight seconds to do this with these pots. This will vary slightly based on your kettle and pots and comfort with pouring. I gave myself four-second pauses between steepings and pours, which was just enough time for “in-between” movements. As can be seen in the table below, the first pot was showered and steeped during the first eight-second interval, plus a four-second pause, and then the second pot was showered and steeped during the next eight-second interval (twelve seconds to twenty seconds) and so on. Just three seconds after showering and steeping the third pot, I poured the first pot into one medium-sized cup. The pour also took about eight seconds. Then after another four-second pause, I poured the second pot and so on. Once I finished pouring all three pots, each pot had steeped for exactly forty-three seconds. At that point, I began to drink the tea from all three pots back and forth as many times as necessary. I repeated these steps three times and recorded my observations during each round. It was really fun to conduct the experiment this way, and drinking the cups side by side yielded a lot of insight. I would actually do it again using the other method of focusing on one pot at a time to see if the results are the same or similar.

Shower/Steep Shower Pouring Time Total Steep (seconds) (seconds) Time Teapot 1 0-8 35-43 43 pause... 4 4

Teapot 2 12-20 47-55 43 pause... 4 4

Teapot 3 24-32 39-67 43

29/ Gongfu Teapot: The Shape of the Teapot 功夫茶 Gongfu Teapot Conclusions/Observations As mentioned above, normally we talk about the conclusion in general, but leave the specific results up to you. After all, it’s important to speak from your own experience by carrying out these experiments. That is the empow- ering quality of doing gongfu tea experiments. Instead of speaking only from intellectual understanding based on something you read in a book or heard in a talk, you can speak confidently from your own observations, from within the framework of your own body. Not to say that intellectual understanding isn’t important; rather, it is compounded in strength when coupled together with experiential understanding. However, because we have such a unique set of pots that likely can’t be replicated, we’ll discuss our specific observations below. As with all of our experiments, we focus on the Ten Qualities of a Fine Cup of Tea, as described in previous issues. These are more objective qualities than flavor and aroma, for example, which can be very subjective and personal. These ten qualities help us define and communicate what constitutes a fine cup of tea because they are more objective, whereas flavor and aroma are not good measures by which to discuss fine tea because they are too subjective. We aren’t simply throwing out flavor and aroma, mind you, only temporarily setting them aside. I steeped the tea three times, making observations in three rounds. There was consistency between my observations in all three rounds, so I will discuss the results together. TheJu Lun Zhu (巨輪珠) “Wagon Wheel” offered a more pronounced flavor profile—without saying what the flavors were (because that’s subjective), but that the flavors were stronger and more noticeable in comparison to the other two pots. This was consistent in all three rounds. The Duo Qiu (掇球) “Chopped Ball” teapot liquor was less pronounced in flavor, but demonstrated more noticeably the sensations in the mouth, like the way it coated the mouth and throat, the smoothness, movement and the splash to the upper palate. When drinking tea from this pot, my attention immediately went to the mouth sensations. Not to say the Ju Lun Zhu didn’t also demonstrate these qualities, but they were more evident in the Duo Qiu, and the flavors and aromas were more subdued. The Meng Chen (孟臣) teapot liquor was, in my experience, the best of both worlds, balancing the sensations in the mouth with the flavors and aromas of this tea. It was noticeably more enjoyable to use a pot that brought together all the qualities so harmoniously. This was my first time conducting this experiment, and I definitely look forward to doing it again. I was surprised at how distinguished the differences were based on shape alone. I found the results to be very inspiring and practical because I can immediately apply the results when brewing tea. For example, if I have a particular tea with a strong and enjoyable aroma or flavor profile, like some oolong teas or Evening Sky red tea, I might consider the Ju Lun Zhu teapot to highlight those qualities. Or, I could choose the Duo Qiu for those same teas to balance the mouth sensations with the already strong flavor profile. More generally speaking, however, it’s great to know that shape alone influences the tea. Because gongfu tea is about making the best cup of tea possible (based on the Ten Qualities of a Fine Tea), I can more confidently take into consideration the shape of the pot when buying or choosing a pot for brewing tea. In this experiment, I focused on the influence the shape of the pot had on the tea liquor. There are also practical aspects of shape to consider, of course, which are more obvious. For instance, if you are using a pot for long and delicate striped leaves, like a Wuyi Cliff Tea, for example, a pot with a larger opening will make placing the leaves much more convenient. Other examples include a filter inside, which is convenient, but not ideal for tea preparation. The size of the pot relative to the number of guests at a session would be another example of a practical factor.

31/ Gongfu Teapot: The Shape of the Teapot 32 The Changing Market of Lao Banzhang Though we usually don’t publish articles concerning the changes and flow of the tea markets in the world—not because of any 改 moral high ground, but rather just because we prefer the histor- 變 ical, artisanal and spiritual sides of tea—no issue on Lao Ban- 老 zhang would be complete without a discussion of its influence 班 on the puerh market. This issue is very profound, and there are 章 many lessons to be learned, especially concerning the influence that we tea lovers have on the lives of distant peoples, for better 市 or for worse. 場

茶人: Lin En Zhao (林恩照)

ao Banzhang prices have risen tea production locations, outlined Technologies and Jack Ma’s Taiji Cha- again! And this time it’s not just below. The major factors involved are nyuan brand. These can all be seen as by 5% or 10%—this time the changes in both the production mod- efforts by these enterprises to position Lprices have increased by a full 50% el and the sales and operating model. themselves to coordinate with China’s right from the raw leaf stage. Once policy objectives of developing cultur- upon a time, large and medium-sized al industries. The operating model for tea enterprises played the role of mid- An economic model the wholesale market is changing along dlemen in this process; nowadays, they to serve mainland China’s with the rapid development of com- have almost no suppressing influence, munications, and the traditional puerh and all they can do is buy and sell at enormous domestic demand wholesale market is in a state of flux. market prices. Visiting merchants Tea shops, the main endpoint of sales, from all over China are streaming into Since puerh tea doesn’t spoil and have begun heading straight to the tea the local tea mountains and villages— only improves with age, becoming regions to acquire the goods them- old hands and novices alike. All are more fragrant and more valuable, it selves, disregarding the once-import- eager to take some sample tea away is seen as a low-risk investment, pur- ant role that intermediary merchants with them to make the trip worth- chased using futures contracts (when played in quality control. while. All of these merchants buying the price is agreed upon at the time tea samples are just like ants toppling of the contract and the goods are de- an elephant; each of their individual livered and paid for later). As such, actions have contributed to pushing when brands such as Dayi, Chensheng Changes in the operating model spring tea prices higher and higher. or newcomer Yulin Gucha are bought of the consumer market But how long can the current high and sold, the physical object purchased prices be sustained? Will the ants keep is an invoice or goods order rather than Puerh is an important element of coming? Will Lao Banzhang tea, which the tea leaf itself. Here in Taiwan, on mainland China’s domestic tea indus- has enjoyed so much attention in Tai- the other hand, our tea merchants try. Aside from traditional tea shops, wanese tea circles, continue to sell? and companies still tend to trade the the “teahouse union” model has also What about puerh tea in general? old-fashioned way, dealing in the tea appeared, unifying the diverse range leaf itself. of sales methods and supply channels, along with the marketing of other tea culture-related products such as tea Changes in the production More cross-industry capital ceremonies, teaware, tea garments and & sales model enters the tea market incense. This has improved business for both high-end teahouse complexes If we look at the current situa- Aside from little known govern- and private tea enterprises and has car- tion, circumstances are even more ment-related funds that view tea as a ried puerh tea into the ranks of high- extreme than they were in the mid- new tool for hedging against risk, there price tea products. Again, one has to 2000s. There are four main observa- are other strategic cross-industry in- wonder what the long-term effect of tions that we can make regarding the vestments such as those from Lenovo these changes will be.

34 Lao Banzhang

35/ The Changing Market of Lao Banzhang So, following from this rough anal- Within the current sales-oriented ysis of the current state of the market operating model, the record high pric- in mainland China, some careful re- es of Lao Banzhang tea are beneficial flection is needed in the Taiwanese tea for promoting sales, even for other world. Due to the impact of these eco- tea products from other regions. This nomic factors, the raw tea leaf market phenomenon is certainly applicable to has undergone external changes as well today’s market in mainland China, as as internal changes because of the qual- these days tea sellers in the mainland ity of the leaf. Examples such as Lao don’t place a lot of emphasis on tea Banzhang are a timely reminder that knowledge. Taiwan’s tea market, on the we must think about the future path other hand, remains relatively conser- of the tea market in Taiwan. The num- vative and traditional. When we mar- ber one factor impacting the current ket tea, we also market the attitude and tea market is the skyrocketing prices specialized knowledge of the Chajin. of raw puerh leaf, which are headed The Taiwanese consumer market tends sky-high and show no signs of turning to lag behind in terms of knowledge back! This is an external change. But of places of origin of the raw leaf due another, undoubtedly more serious to the limitations imposed by physical change is that the intrinsic quality of distance. That said, rational consumer the tea is rapidly deteriorating under habits in Taiwan tend to prevent the the influence of these economic fac- phenomenon of consumers blindly tors. To put it simply, even though chasing the latest craze in tea. one must pay a higher price with every passing year, this higher price can only buy increasingly inferior tea! Just as “Da Hong Pao” (“Big Red Recent changes in Robe”) has become synonymous with Lao Banzhang Village Wuyi Cliff Tea, “Lao Banzhang” has also come to represent puerh tea as a In recent years, five main elements whole, and is no longer just seen as of Lao Banzhang Village tend to sur- some kind of unique or outstanding face in popular discussion. The first is example in the genre. This is a reality that the villagers have all been building that we must come to accept in Tai- brand new houses and processing facil- wan’s tea circles. In recent years, with ities, with an average area of more than regard to the tea producers who have a thousand square meters per building been busily rushing around on the (according to the estimates of the vil- front lines in Yunnan’s major tea-pro- lage committee). The second is that ducing regions, I have already stopped China Mobile installed internet con- paying Lao Banzhang tea any kind of nections especially for Lao Banzhang, special attention, since it has already and now every household in the vil- changed so much! lage has a computer. The third is that It’s no longer the old friend it once a bank branch has been opened in the was; now, it is simply one of a list of village. And the fourth is that almost standard tea products that must be all of the storefronts in the Hai County manufactured each year. Lao Ban- town have been bought by people from zhang tea has not been Lao Banzhang Lao Banzhang. The last is the ever- tea for quite some time. climbing price of Lao Banzhang tea. In my opinion, there are two ques- At the same time, increased contact tions that the tea world should be fo- with Lao Banzhang tea seems to have cusing on regarding Lao Banzhang tea. left an impression of high demand, The first is this: as tea prices have been instability and deteriorating quality, driven up by the multitudes of “ants” leading to an overall climate of doubt buying their tea samples, has the in- and conjecture. trinsic quality of Lao Banzhang tea also For example, increasing num- been affected? If so, has it improved or bers of tea merchants are station- deteriorated? The second is: suppos- ing themselves in the village itself, ing the equilibrium between price and so they can personally oversee the quality has been lost, should consum- whole production process. Should ers support the tea industry’s response we see this trend as positive or nega- of adjusting tea prices? Do we really tive? It is really hard to know what to want high-priced, low-quality tea? think about all these drastic changes.

36 Lao Banzhang For one thing, people from Lao Ban- the qualities that made the tea famous from 1 million yuan on the lower end zhang have contracted most of the in the first place. to nearly 2 million on the higher end. tea-producing land of neighboring Based on statistics from 2012, Lao These figures are enough to understand Banpen Village and built on-site pro- Banzhang Village was home to 127 the continually rising tea prices, a great cessing facilities. However, you never households at that time. According to pillar supporting the financial might of hear of people from Lao Banzhang Director Yang of the savings unit at Lao Banzhang Village. selling Banpen tea—you’ll always hear the Zhun Bank (准銀行) rural credit In recent years, the people of Lao them stress that they only sell tea from union, from the first of March when Banzhang have taken to repeating that Lao Banzhang. Although Lao Ban- the tea harvest began until the end of “Only the tea sold by Lao Banzhang zhang tea appears to be produced in a March, the village had collectively de- Village is Lao Banzhang tea!” As for all strictly-controlled environment, has all posited 25 million yuan. From the first the merchants who flock from afar to this effort actually led to an improve- of April onwards, about 1 million yuan Lao Banzhang Village, are they spend- ment in the tea? The answer to this was deposited each day! The farming ing these considerable sums to buy remains hazy and uncertain. Accord- households and the savings unit made Lao Banzhang tea because they know ing to popular impression, Lao Ban- an agreement that the funds from in their hearts that it’s good tea? Or zhang tea hasn’t just changed in terms March tea sales would be deposited to simply because it’s adorned with the of outward appearance, becoming less the sum of more than 30 million yuan shining reputation of the tea village? Is visually attractive, lacking in fragrance in cash, while the tea merchants with- “don’t buy the ‘right’ tea, just buy the and harder to find, but the flavor has drew a sum of more than 7 million most expensive!” in fact the truest pic- also become weaker, and the spirit of yuan. By way of comparison, village ture of today’s puerh tea market? the tea seems to have been lost. On head Ge Sanyi (戈三以) was making the whole, in addition to the observ- a daily income of 50 to 70 thousand able changes in the quality of Lao Ban- yuan a day from tea sales, while his zhang tea, it seems that the attitude of friends and relatives were bringing in the people of Lao Banzhang has also 30 to 50 thousand a day. It’s estimated become more focused on the economic that during the month of March, the benefit of selling the tea as opposed to villagers probably each made anywhere

The upper left shows the brand new bank that was built in Lao Banzhang Village, which is extremely rare for villages (maybe the only of its kind at the time of this publication). Above, a Hani elder sits and casually sifts withering maocha outside their brand new, huge and freshly-tiled house. Most of the villagers have built new houses, which is a good thing. We wish them prosperity, but the “Green Gold” rush may not bring them happiness. To the right, two young boys return home after helping pick tea leaves, and learning how it’s done—each with a sack of tools and herbs they gathered in the forest.

37/ The Changing Market of Lao Banzhang 38 茶Cha Dao Series 道 The Elixir of Life 長生丹茶人: Wu De (無的)

ore than anything else, peo- It is important for us to know what When many people think of tea ple ask, “Why tea?” it is we want from Tea, as this will guide culture, they invariably think of ei- Since ancient times, the our journey and inform our choices in ther the industrial farmers who grow MZen ideal has been to seek liberation tea, teaware, teachers and insight. For tea for money, or the tea shop owners in “daily life”—finding meaning in some, tea is just refreshment—a bever- who sell them tea. A tea master is sim- the ordinary dapple of sunlight on the age. They enjoy drinking it when they ilarly someone who sells tea for some table, the golden ring that flutters on are thirsty and nothing more. Others time or farms it for money. Many tea a flower, work, sweat, digestion and view tea as a kind of hobby or art, with lovers who get passionate about tea, sleep. This is Zen through an interme- creativity in the teaware and its ar- developing their ability to drink and diate. Remember, as we discussed in rangement. This is all fine; people need be affected by the tea, want to move last month’s Zen & Tea issue, the word recreation. Hobbies are healthy ways beyond the hobby. They then feel that “Zen” means the meditative mind, of diverting attention, relaxing and entering the tea business world is the and because “Zen Buddhism” can get curtailing stress. It’s been proven that only route. And yet, for thousands and in the way of transmitting this mind retired people with hobbies live longer. thousands of years, tea was neither as often as it helps, Zen masters have If you find yourself more passionate bought nor sold, though great tea mas- through the ages sought other, nonver- about tea, however, there may come ters haunted all the great mountains of bal ways and means of communicating a time where you see yourself moving China. And the higher levels of mas- the Zen mind. The meditative mind, beyond this stage. Hobbies that con- tery in tea, as with any art, cannot be which is therefore Zen, was cultivated sume too much time, energy or money achieved when financial motivation is through an intermediary: martial arts, are obsessive and lead to unhealthy life- involved. To paint for the love of ink is a gatha, a poem, calligraphy, a mantra ways. If your tea is a casual recreation, the only real mastery. It is indeed pos- or an ordinary activity. then maintain a casual attitude and sible to make a teahouse or shop purely But why highlight the tea cup of enjoy its relaxing properties as such. for the love of tea, and maintain that all these ordinary objects on the table? We all need time away from the bustle passion throughout a long career shar- Why promote this Leaf and not the of daily life, enjoying the freedom to ing great tea and Cha Dao with others. cabbage soup that came with lunch? be ourselves. In this way, tea can also Still, the Chinese have a saying that the Did it not speak of Nature as deeply? create a calm center around which “front of the shop never resembles the Why not put a walnut in your pocket? social constrictions are lifted and we back.” And once you’ve hung around Again, why tea? Sometimes when peo- have great conversations, or in which the back of the shop long enough, it’s ple ask this question, it isn’t so deep; we find a mindset that is conducive to hard to keep up your integrity, passion sometimes people just want to know other creative projects like composing and truth—especially in times of fi- why and/or how we “got into tea.” poetry, painting or calligraphy. That’s nancial hardship. But it can be done, Those questions are best answered ca- why so many of those who mastered and many shopkeepers are stunning sually, with a bit of backstory. those fields were also tea lovers. examples of this.

39 40 Cha Dao

For me, drinking tea has little to to all areas of life. We learn to walk, learn through (and from) tea should do with hobby, art or business. I drink talk and breathe our tea. Mindfulness be applied towards the awakening of tea the way the ancients did: as med- is not something added onto the mo- others, for there is no mastery with- icine and as religion. As religion, it is ment, but rather the moment experi- out such devotion and selflessness. It a direct communion with the tea and enced more fully. is paradoxical, but there really is only teaware, fully and completely. It is a so far you can travel before your own discipline of living beauty in daily life. growth, learning and improvement As the great Soetsu Yanagi said, “Tea Healing Service must involve sharing, which becomes is a religion of beauty. It can claim to the lesson itself. It is only in service of be called the Way of Tea only when it Whenever anyone comes to our humankind that we find purpose, in is exalted to a religion. Until the mind Center to learn this Way of Tea, we al- other words. is ready, we cannot hope to enter the ways emphasize that in this tradition Of course, it isn’t selfish of a doc- sanctuary of Tea.” To the novice, tea is we are not learning how to make tea, tor to focus all his time, energy and a pastime or plaything. To the Chajin, but rather how to serve it. We culti- money on himself while he’s at med- tea is a Dao, for through self-discipline vate and express a way of preparing ical school. An uneducated doctor can the master learns to become the mo- tea that promotes an awakening of be of service to no one, and you can’t ment, purify the spirit and transcend the heart and is therefore a part of loan me twenty dollars if you only have the self to living expression of beauty. the greater shift of consciousness and ten. We must therefore begin our tea This is a Way because it becomes a life- healing that is happening globally. All journey by cultivating our own skills. style, extending beyond the tearoom of the skill (gongfu) and mastery we But we shouldn’t ever forget our aim,

41/ The Elixir of Life 古代草不藥治癒一老切丹茶

which is to give/share any and every- or comprehend the tea. It doesn’t need The second stage of learning in- thing we cultivate—just as the medical to be named or categorized, and you volves a lot of participation in the brew- student shouldn’t forget that one day don’t need to understand all the de- ing process. There are lifetimes’ worth she will be a healer. tails of its processing. It will tell you its of skills to be learned: how to gather At our Center, we generally divide story: where it comes from, what kind water, which is best for tea, how to lay learning into three stages. First, a stu- terroir and even the wisdom that was and maintain the coals, how to boil dent of the Leaf should learn to drink handed down to it through its genet- the water, which pot to use and how, tea. Before you can make tea for oth- ic heritage, and from the sun, moon, etc. All of these skills should become ers, you must learn how to be served stars, mountain and water. It may also second nature to you. It is important yourself. Accept the tea from anoth- tell you some of the more personal wis- that you develop a great acumen with er, watch how it is done, and learn dom it has cultivated as a living tree, the way the tea is prepared, as well as to communicate with the tea and the though it rarely speaks from a sense of allowing the teaware to be an exten- Nature that flows through it. In con- “self” that would distinguish it from sion of yourself. It is only when tea nection, we find ourselves. This first Nature. But none of this is “spoken;” preparation is truly a part of who you stage is learning to speak the language the language of tea is one of sensa- are that you will be able to focus com- of tea. For this, it is often best to take tion and impression. The connection pletely on serving your guests (even if out the human elements in tea prepa- must be deeper. And having lost much that guest is you). Otherwise, you will ration— descriptions, skill and exper- of our connection to Nature in these be too focused on not spoiling the tea tise—and return to just leaves and wa- mind-made cities, we must relearn and handling the teaware properly to ter in a bowl. You don’t need to classify how to communicate with it. pay much attention to your guests.

42 Cha Dao When the skill (gongfu) of tea prepara- The second aim of expressing this tion has become an unconscious flow, tea is to find a meeting of our true it then comes out of your own sponta- selves in the tea space. This is how neous nature and is free to align itself guest and host find that they are one. with the Dao of the moment, and you When we rest inwards and meet the can focus your energy on other things, tea together, we find that it is so much for the most part. easier to let go of our ego masks: our The final stage of development in social statuses, sex, race, etc. and just this tradition is to study the shaman- be in our true selves. We start to com- ism of tea, which means a focus on the municate as spirits, rather than egos underlying energy work. Tea and wa- or bodies. In this tradition, we call ter are both some of the most sensitive this energy “calm joy.” Sometimes it media in the world for energy work. takes the form of a casual conversation Water takes the shape of anything about spiritual matters. “Drink tea and you put it in; it is incredibly malleable discuss the Dao” is a Chinese saying on the energetic level, and very pro- that is older than the word “tea.” And nouncedly influenced by the energy just about every spiritual conversation of its environment. Similarly, tea is a that has ever happened in Asia these very sensitive and energetically supple many eons has happened over tea. plant. The Qi of tea will be greatly af- In all the different forms of Cha fected by the energy of the place it is Dao, from China to Japan and Korea, stored in, as we have realized through there has always been an emphasis on countless experiments. Even physical- creating a space in which guests and ly, tea shouldn’t be stored in the kitch- hosts can find one another and rest en, for example, because it absorbs the in their true nature—the space deep odors of whatever is around it. Tea and down in us all where we find that the water together respond to the brewer, tea, each other and Nature are one. and can be coaxed into various energy And as we are finding in this global frequencies, which will then influence hut, it isn’t always necessary for us to the drinkers. This is why we say that be sharing the tea in the same time and the brewer (host) is completely respon- space for such a magical connection to sible for the energy of the tea space. We occur. The world is, after all, round. can communicate much of where we In creating and facilitating such are in this moment through tea, and in civilized peace, our roles of guest and a way that is more intimate than words host evaporate, and we can smile and could ever be. And that is why masters rest in our mutual connections. In have so often used tea to communicate cultivating such spaces, we also grow a nonverbal wisdom of Zen and Dao, ourselves spiritually. And more impor- deeper and more lasting than words. tantly, we make lasting connections The two main aims of sharing that are deeper and beyond the egoic what we cultivate through tea are first relationships we usually foster. When to promote a turning inward for our we serve our guests completely, in the guests—to introduce them to them- spirit of their higher good, we find our selves, and to the connection with Na- own higher self growing as well—for it ture that lies therein. There is great and is consciousness itself that is evolving profound healing in such an experi- through us all. This is also a kind of ence, as so many of you already know. medicine. We utilize tea to return to our bodies and then souls; as the Sage said, “the Dao is a returning.” In this way, tea is a Tea as Medicine powerful spiritual aid for those whom we meet in the tea space. We, as hosts, Many books begin with a chapter facilitate growth in our guests, allow- about how tea was medicine to Chi- ing them the solace from the world nese people for thousands of years. that they so desperately need. We in- That is true, but “medicine” can be still quiet and presence in the tea, so a misleading word. In the modern that our guests turn inwards and meet world, it refers to something that we the tea in their own bodies. This is tea take to treat or prevent disease. We as meditation. Prepared from a still think of medicine as a restorative center, it leads others to the stillness at treatment to “get back to normal” their own center... when our patterns are disrupted.

43/ The Elixir of Life

Cha Dao

While that is a part of what tea has cures cancer, etc. Saying that tea was some of the Japanese tea masters did, is meant to Chajin (people of tea) past medicine to ancient peoples isn’t a to say that the life of tea has little to do and present, it falls short of what marketing ploy. Drinking tea makes with the tearoom, and that the Chajin “medicine” meant to our ancestors. us healthy, ridding our body of some is all day preparing tea: when she eats, Tea was “medicine” to Chinese people accumulated toxins. dresses and in the way she interacts in the Native American sense of the More importantly, we all have with her companions as well. word, as in “medicine man” or “med- deeper poisons and pollutants in our To the modern mind, the tales of icine stone.” Health and healing to our psyche—deep in our hearts. Tea, as an miracle recoveries—like the way some ancestors was as much spiritual and aspect of a spiritual life, can also help Wuyi Cliff Tea saved an emperor, or psychological as it was physical. Tea, ameliorate these poisons. This is by far legends of enlightenment brewed into and the rituals that surround it, was the more important of tea’s properties a draught that granted the drinker therefore a part of daily physical, men- and why it has always been a special sudden communion with the Dao— tal and spiritual cleansing. Our bodies herb to spiritual practitioners: first in these stories seem to be mere fables accumulate toxins, and tea has always the medicine pouches of aboriginal and nothing more. After all, tea is been heralded for its ability to cleanse shamans, then the bowls and pots of the world’s second most consumed the system. This medicinal effect isn’t Daoist mendicants, and finally in the beverage, so why aren’t these millions meant to be a health gimmick of the bowls of Buddhist monks—the world’s of people healed? Why aren’t there kind used nowadays to sell tea—using first tea farmers. In this way, tea was more masters walking around? While sometimes-sound/sometimes-sketchy but one ingredient in a life of purifica- some such stories may be metaphors, medical research to argue that tea tion; or another way to look at this, as meant to inspire us with a more poetic

45/ The Elixir of Life 超越時煮間和空沸間的光

approach to life—or perhaps didac- riencing exotic and interesting flavors easy to find, and you have to under- tic stories passed on to students—the can’t bring about lasting peace. As a stand a bit more about the tea world fact is that if you’ve ever experienced medicine, tea is drunk to soothe the in order to find the teas that instantly the deeper properties of tea, you know, body and soul. In such unpolluted, cleanse the body and clear the mind, as I do, that these stories aren’t so far- pristine mountains, little was needed. allowing spiritual insights to flourish fetched, for such teas do indeed heal One simply sought out some wizened on their own. the body and soothe the soul. Why tea tree—hundreds of years old— As we drink tea to heal our bod- were Chinese doctors utilizing tea to plucked some leaves, roasted them a ies, minds and spirits, in this day and heal spirit and body, when some mod- bit or sundried them, sprinkled them age, it is primary that we remember ern doctors are encouraging Asians to in a bowl and added some water from that poison cannot flush poison. How drink less tea? a nearby mountain spring. The first can you possibly cleanse your body of Unfortunately, the soul-healing domesticated tea trees, grown by Bud- toxins or purify your heart when the properties inherent in tea don’t ra- dhist monks, were also tended in as medicine itself is poisonous? There is diate from most leaves these days. In natural a way as possible, and little was no healing when the medicine is sick- ancient times, there was little process- needed to coax the spirit out of those ness. For that reason, the most primary ing and little need for “gongfu tea,” as leaves either. And contrary to any criterion in the search for quality tea is preparation methodology wasn’t very assumptions you may have, this ap- that it is organic, grown with a respect important. People weren’t drinking tea proach to tea has not died out, and is for Mother Earth and in recognition of for flavor. Flavors are fleeting, and the very much alive today. The spirit of tea the ancient heritage of tea as a medi- pleasure they bring is illusory. Expe- flourishes, even in 2019; it’s just not as cine. Then only will it be healing.

46 Cha Dao As medicine, we don’t need an ex- riculture is in some places destroying cess of tea. We don’t need such rich, mountains and ruining ecologies in chemically-enhanced, over-genetically- the name of quick money. modified flavors. When you look at One of the great clashes between a tea plantation and see the beautiful European and Native American cul- green hedges of tea, it is like looking at tures was the way in which they viewed an actress with hours of makeup and the earth. More and more as we move special lighting on her normally blem- into an age of looming environmental ished face, or like looking at a body crises, we have to respect the Native builder who has been using steroids American perspective: that the earth for the last few years. Of course he’s does not belong to us; we walk upon buff and she’s beautiful, but this beau- it. The lines we draw on maps aren’t ty is surface only, and artificial. It is real. No one can own a land. How do coarse, unrefined beauty of the gaudy you own the sparkle of sunlight on a kind. A walk through such a garden is pond or the wind through the grass? like a trip into the dirty backroom of If a rich man knocked on your door the shop—the place where smiles do and offered you wealth for five of the not prevail and all is not as it seems: stars in the sky, how would you re- the over-harvested, chemical-covered spond? You either honestly wonder if plants are dying. They are actually be- he’s okay, asking how you could sell ing replaced every ten to fifteen years the stars? No one owns the stars. Or when they die. The Earth is hard and perhaps you take advantage of him, has no smell—no life, no richness. The scoffing at how a fool and his money roots of the trees are curled up out of are soon parted. The Native Americans the ground, searching for nourish- responded in just these two ways when ment. The agrochemicals and defor- the Europeans came trying to buy land estation of the local environment to that they felt was equally un-ownable, create this commercial farm have had a and beyond possession. Unfortunately, dramatic ecological impact—expand- even when they were honest and said ing outwards in rings, as the lack of in- no one could possibly own this land, sects also destroys those that consume the Europeans misunderstood that to them and so on, as well as the run- mean it was free for the taking. off pesticide and fertilizer that travels The future of medicinal, healing tea down the mountain in underground depends on us, my readers and friends. streams that pollute the groundwater, Most farmers will understand if you sit harming people and animals. After them down and explain that they are some thirty to fifty years, such land able to earn money today because their can no longer grow tea, and the farm- ancestors cared for this land and these ers then plant betel nut or some other trees. As Chinese people, they have a such crop, moving on to other as yet deep respect for their ancestors and undiminished mountains. concern for their descendants. When These shocking truths are what the you explain to them that if they con- businessmen don’t wish to discuss. But tinue, their great-grandchildren will the worst part about getting into show have no security, no land to till, they business is seeing all the stuff that goes can understand and will agree on prin- on backstage, including the way the ciple. The problem is that while their actors behave out of the spotlight and principles dictate organic, sustainable the way they really look without their farming, they feel it is impractical. makeup on. Like most people, they have financial If tea is to help heal our spirits, stresses. Others have a car and they connecting us to Nature—sun and feel they need one too. Their neigh- mountain, river and sky—we have to bors have TVs and so their wife wants be careful that it comes from a whole- one, too—not to mention the cost of some source and that its production their children’s education. Our job is didn’t harm the Nature that bestowed to make them understand that their it on us in the first place. Chinese peo- role is more that of a caretaker than a ple used tea medicinally for thousands producer. Without the spiritual, me- of years, and farmed it for hundreds dicinal aspect of tea, it is just so many without ever upsetting the balance of ounces and grams, a superficial ma- a single ecology anywhere, while so- terialism and nothing more. Seen as called “modern” and “scientific” ag- weight, Nature is always harmed.

48 Cha Dao We have successfully converted mechanistic worldviews, the popular several farmers in Asia by setting aside common sense still has little to do with 超 the weight of the tea, and even offering our modern quantum physics. 越 them more than its value per gram to The organs of your body are a nec- let them know that there are plenty of essary aspect of who you are. If your 星 tea lovers whose view of quality isn’t heart is removed, you cease to exist. In 星 about mere flavor or pleasure of the the same way, the air and water of this 打 mouth—that we would love to spend world are also essential aspects of be- 的 our money on clean, organic, healthy, ing human, without which we would medicinal tea produced in traditional die. Even when we leave this Earth, 永 ways. We want the farmer to have a we must can up its environment and 恆 car and a TV, and we want his children take it with us into space. We did not to go to a nice school. We are willing come here from another world, in oth- 開 to pay for these things, but not for so er words, but grew out of it. We are many ounces and grams of tea. We are, an expression of its energies. Environ- instead, paying him to be a steward of mental destruction, however, can only this land and care for these trees the happen when people view themselves way others did before him. as distinct from their environment, as In centuries past, tea trees were all an object in an environment. When we 所 seed-propagated rather than genetically- realize the truth that we are a part of cloned as they are in many places to- the environment, as it is a part of us, it day, making them each unique. Older becomes quite obvious that harming it trees that helped a family were often is suicidal. Tea is one of the medicines given the same surname as the family, that can re-establish this feeling of con- along with a unique name to show that nection with Nature. 有 the tree was indeed a part of the clan. If Our ancestors lived in tune with more of us realize that this kind of tea Nature, but they did so naïvely. They is just better in every way, the farmers farmed in ecologically sound ways, but will see that they don’t need to com- there wasn’t any choice. We have the promise their principles in order to be tremendous power to move forward successful. into an enlightened future in which we 門 A sustainable tea future is an epito- create sustainable, glorious tea gardens, me of all the challenges the survival of while fully conscious of our decision to our species depends upon. We have to achieve balance. The innocence and recognize our connection to each oth- spontaneity of the child is a wonder to er and this world before it’s too late. behold, but it doesn’t compare to the It is very important for us to shift our innocence and grace of the master who entire value system, so that the quality has tamed a life of ego and returned to of any product is as much determined Nature fully aware of herself! by its production methodology as it is Tea can indeed heal, and beyond a by its usefulness. Something that can hobby or an art, its medicinal qualities bring us pleasure at the cost of natural are so much more important in this destruction is low quality. Obviously, sick age. If you haven’t ever asked your- drugs can bring such physical pleasure, self why tea, perhaps now is the time but at the cost of a loss of health, san- to begin doing so. If you’re interested ity and spiritual purity—ultimately at all in the Leaf, you begin to listen leading to annihilation. Similarly, poi- intently to what each cup is telling sonous agriculture and consumption you: but it isn’t a scream or a bang; it’s are at the heart of our environmental a whisper. As you hush up, going deep- problems. er into the sensations of your teas, you In the nineteenth century, scien- one day hear it: the voice of Nature. tists and philosophers presumed that What’s it saying to your spirit? To me, viewing the world around us as alive it whispers hoary tales of bearded men and intelligent was primitive. They who roamed craggy mountains with a called it “animism” and looked on it romance in their heart, searching for a as a “primitive” worldview based on certain serrated Leaf that could be al- a mistaken anthropomorphism of chemically roasted, boiled and poured unintelligent objects. They reasoned with a golden-ring shining bowl: the that we should remain “objective” and Elixir of Life. distance ourselves from the world. Though our science has transcended

49/ The Elixir of Life

Tea History The “Origins” of ea T 茶人: Sam Gibb

There is a lot of debate about when the relationship between humans and tea began, though we know that Camellia sinensis and its cousins evolved after an ice age around one million years ago. The first humans to drink tea are mythic, however, and maybe that is for the best. We need to discuss what understanding the past means before we get into the details about what we know so far along with some of the myths of tea’s origins.

istory is a bleary-eyed old one of the most laudatory historians can never have all the chapters of— man, weary of looking on in ancient China, named Wei Zhao pages are missing, forever so. our comings and goings for (韋曜), has been so respected all these We must also reflect on who is tell- Hso long he’s become too myopic to see. centuries precisely because he is said ing us the story when examining histor- The further back we travel into the to have written the truth of what hap- ical evidence. While this is not an issue written record of human life, the more pened in the Three Kingdoms period with primary sources, history is almost distorted the scene becomes, eventu- (220–280), risking his own life, as well always told through a storyteller. And ally trailing off into myth and legend. as the lives of his family and friends. those storytellers run along the lines The accounts and perspectives of any Royalty and nobility made historians of gender, education and class. Histo- given event trail off the further back in write what they wanted written for ry is written predominately through time we go, in direct proportion to the posterity, in other words, not the truth. the eyes of the wealthy, well-educated number of pens or brushes set to paper. History is a narrative. It is the story males. Even five hundred years ago, the When the printing press was invented, of humankind, or perhaps more ac- literacy rate in England was only 5%. hardly anyone was literate. The ability curately, it is the story of the humans As we travel back in time, this number to read and write our account of what who recorded it. This means history is gets smaller and smaller, and so does is happening around us is a skill we all always presented through a series of our scope of perspectives. We also need take for granted these days, though lenses, of perspectives. Those with the to consider that much is lost in the much of humanity’s experience on this pen always have the final say on “truth” translation from academics to public earth has been left unrecorded since all and “significance,” which are the two knowledge. Complex issues are broken but a very few could write. spectrums on which we weigh his- down into sound-bites and pieces of Not only are we left with a more torical facts. Ambrose Bierce defined information that are easily digested. and more limited account of what has history as “an account, mostly false, None of this is to say we dismiss his- happened, but the perspective narrows of events, mostly unimportant, which tory, but understanding its limitations along class lines. It was the upper class are brought about by rulers, mostly when investigating it is healthy, as with who were literate; so what we read knaves, and soldiers, mostly fools.” any field of inquiry. As Plutarch said, is often their perspective, and their While this may be considered the defi- “So very difficult a matter it is to trace perspective alone. And they are not nition of a fabulist, there is some truth and find out the truth of anything by known for telling the truth. In fact, in it. If history is a story, it is one we history.”

Tea History

Above and to the left are maps and photos of the archaeological excavation at Tian Luo Shan (田螺山) that began in 2001, wherein tea roots were discovered in 2004. (We will discuss the dig in the coming pages.) Tian Luo Shan is located in Zhejiang Province. The dig was to uncover the remains of a village of Hemudu people. In 2008, it was confirmed that the plant matter found at the dig was, in fact, rhizomes, which are roots from the Theaceae genus Camellia. The plants were in rows, which has led some of the scientists to argue that the plants were even domesticated. They also found the pottery shard shown to the right, which has what looks like a potted or terraced tea plant, decorated ceremoniously. This evidence pushed the concrete date of human tea use back to the fourth millennium BCE, which is the Neolithic Era in China. But this location in Zhejiang is very far from the birthplace of tea in Yunnan, which suggests an even earlier date.

History can, sometimes, appear to The origins of tea lie up a fog- sensus dates Yuanmo to the Middle be neatly wrapped up, with everything gy, hazy mountain, above the clouds Pleistocene period, which is from having a clear beginning and end. This where the Daoist hermits were said to 126,000 to 781,000 years ago, mak- methodology has also been applied walk. The historical record of tea is but ing him the oldest hominid ever dis- to the relationship between humans the faintest of sketches. Archaeology covered in China. Some scholars even and tea. Some people believe it began adds a splash of color, and a study of believe that Yuanmo inhabited the in the latter part of the Han Dynasty the myths and legends provides the area earlier than this, and some new (206 BCE–220 CE); others point to- faintest of backgrounds. But all the de- dating techniques using rocks found wards tea’s mainstream consumption tail has to be filled in by the spirit. And around the site date him to the Early in the Tang Dynasty (618–907); while so much of what tea is about, from Pleistocene period. Yuanmo was a type a smaller portion suggests it was the ancient to modern, water to leaves to of Homo erectus called by paleoanthro- Neolithic period of human evolution. liquor, takes place deep inside us where pologists “Homo erectus yuanmouensis.” History isn’t our only window into the words can never hope to reach anyway. These hominids are named for their past, though. Archaeology is his fickle The all-too-often-forgotten prehistory upright bearing and the development daughter who often comes to our aid. of tea is just as important, if not more of their frontal lobes and handicrafts. For though we do make discoveries so, as the time it captured the atten- Homo erectus emerged around two mil- based on insight, most of what we find tion of the literati. Though we may not lion years ago. Early specimens have is accidental. We have to wait for the know all the details—the names, dates been found in West Africa and Asia, Fates to shed some light on the skewed and places—we can perhaps use what so there is an active debate amongst records of the rich. knowledge has been left in the form of scientists as to whether Homo erectus History is very much a conversa- so many pieces of art, texts and legends emerged in Asia or Africa. Another ex- tion between the past and present. as a kind of unsharpened, rough bit of ample was also found in the north of However, we should keep in mind it charcoal to sketch out tea in ancient China, in the 1920s—famously called is an ongoing conversation, one that is times; and then, drinking tea with the “Peking Man.” Homo erectus even- constantly changing and adapting. Be- meditative stillness, use our spirit to tually went extinct around 100,000 cause of this, we must still consider his- fill in the rest of such a drawing. to 140,000 years ago, evolving into torical evidence through the filters, not On May 1st, 1965, Chinese geolo- other descendant species of hominid only of our rational mind, but also our gists who were studying the strata of and coexisting with still others. It was heart: Never drawing definitive lines in rocks in Yunnan discovered the re- amongst the longest-lived species of what we believe to be true. “No frozen mains of an ancient hominid, which hominids, existing well over one mil- rigid opinions,” as we say in Zen. they named “Yuanmo (元謀).” Con- lion years (way beyond Homo sapiens)!

53/ The “Origins” of Tea There is no consensus about the rela- were also the first to care for the infirm, born around a million years ago in the tionship between Homo erectus like Yu- elderly and weak, bridging the animal Five Mountains of central Yunnan, anmo and modern Homo sapiens. Are and human realms. This implies that as current genetic research is proving the Yuanmo and other Homo erectus they also had abstract values, ideas and (Ming Feng, 鳴鳳; Mang Fei, 忙肺; our ancestors, or another type of hom- possibly even rudimentary cosmologi- Mei Zi Qing, 梅子菁; Wu Jia Zhai, 武 inid that lived alongside our ancestors? cal and mythological ideas, as well as 家寨; Da Xue Shan, 大雪山). By the Either way, their discoveries influenced ceremonies, rites and rituals in basic time Yuanmo was thriving in various our evolution and development. forms—both for connection to each tribal groups wandering this vast swath Since tool use first developed more other and the handing on of traditions, of mountains and jungle, tea trees were than 2.5 million years ago, Yuanmo and also for funerals, recognizing the abundant, and it is very possible that was already well versed in the creation loss of spirit in deceased loved ones. these early hominids chewed the leaves of tools, artifacts and even rudimenta- Yuanmo is especially important for as they hiked, or even boiled them for ry shelter. They were also amongst the us Chajin as there is a very real poten- nourishment. first to control, tame and harness fire, tial that these early hominids were the Anthropologists studying more which was one of the most important first humans to discover tea, pushing modern hunter-gatherer societies have developmental stages in our evolution. the use of tea back many millennia if found that they have a very clear, and Homo erectus species like Yuanmo were this were true. So far, all the evidence often nutritionally accurate, hierar- the first hominids to live as hunters suggesting that tea was a part of Yuan- chy of food sources, so that they will and gatherers, with a developing lan- mo’s life is circumstantial, but more re- always make intelligent choices about guage and culture, communicating in search may indeed uncover a relation- what to gather on any given day and what paleoanthropologists call “proto- ship. All the Homo erectus throughout in what order. If three food sources language,” as they were incapable of Africa and Asia were nomadic, and are available at that time of year, for the range of sounds we use to commu- often hiked for many kilometers a day example, they will manage their time nicate. This is something between our in search of food to gather and/or an- so that they gather the rarest and most complex languages and the nonverbal imals to hunt. In other regions, there nutrient-dense food first, only then gestures chimpanzees and other great is evidence of early hominids chewing moving on to the next and so on. This apes use to communicate. They were on caffeinated plants to energize their nutritional wisdom surprised the an- the first hominids to form tribes, hunt long hikes. Since Yuanmo inhabited thropologists, since the people did and gather communally and pass on most of Yunnan, from the Himalayas not pass on any overt oral tradition the skills and wisdom of these activities down to the Lincang River, it is like- to their children about what foods to as culture to their descendants. They ly that they encountered tea. Tea was gather and in which season to do so.

54 Tea History Children learned from watching their course, our intellectual and technolog- there through scattered texts dating parents. They also participated in the ical advancements have allowed us to back all the way into the Zhou Dynas- gathering. Part of this wisdom is, of explore this universe in ways our an- ty (circa 1122–256 BCE). But what course, learned through experience, cestors could not imagine. We under- of the thousands of years between the passed on through trial and error stand a lot more about our world and time that tea was first discovered and and a growing body of innate cultur- how it works, and do not rely on met- when it was first written, traded, real understanding from generation to aphoric or mythological explanations corded and made popular? Wu De has generation. But the lack of overt com- to understand natural phenomena. often said that the use of tea extends munication suggests also an intuitive We can use empirical observation and far back beyond what we could ever connection to Nature that is more spir- create testable models that not only imagine, though the historical record itual than intellectual. help us understand our world, but also trails off much sooner. Oftentimes, modern researchers get work with and develop this knowledge All disciplines, philosophies and stuck in approaching our ancestors and in application to our lives. However, systems of thought have their limita- their cultures through the lens of “we there are other types of intelligence tions. We could say “all systems leak.” are so clever, and they were not.” Of that we have lost in exchange for this History is no different. Within each course, the brutality and certain other great intellectual prowess. moment, there is more happening than ideals in ancient societies makes this Besides the possibility of Yuanmo could ever be described or known if easy to do. There is truth in it, but it drinking tea or eating tea leaves, the you had all of eternity to expand upon is also misleading. There are ways in first few thousand years that tea was it. Our filters and ways of thinking which our ancestors would find us to drunk are all prehistorical. There aren’t change the way we interpret the writ- be stupid as well. For example, imagine any written records about this time, ings of others, just as their record was setting up a stall to sell bottled water only legends. For the most part, it filtered through their own perspective. in some ancient Chinese village. Peo- would not be until the Tang Dynasty This is even more true when we look ple would consider you mad. And isn’t (618–907) that the story of tea comes at prehistory, which is even more open it madness that our bodies are more into focus, and from that point on de- to interpretation. Without evidence, than half water, and we have polluted velops into the story so many wonder- we return to mythology and write the the drinking water to the point that ful books have described. Prior to that, story as we see fit. The cave paintings we cannot consume it anymore? Of however, tea is but mentioned here and of Yunnan are a good example of this. Shennong神農 hey say that Shennong, the “Divine Farmer,” went to the woods to learn more about herbs. Shennong was part man and part 神 Nature. He had horns like a goat and wore a coat made of leaves Tthat would change with the seasons—turning golden red in autumn, falling in winter to be replaced by coarse vines that kept him warm, and then sprouting again in the spring, flush and green. They say Shen- 農此 nong could antidote poisons with his internal alchemy and make his stomach transparent to watch the effects of the herbs he was studying. 為 Like most days, Shennong was soon lost to the morning mists, trav- 藥 eling deeper into the mountains, up past the clouds. Cloudwalking for 中 most the day, he soon grew weary and sat beneath the canopy of an 的 ancient tree to boil some water. As he was waiting for his hot water, 之 he drifted into a trance, communing with the spirits of the forest. In response to his fey conversations, a breeze picked up and two small 王 leaves of the old tree shook, rattled and fell free of their stalks, drift- 落 ing back and forth like feathers, only to land in the cauldron of water. When the water boiled, the old sage opened his eyes and saw the dark concoction. He took it as an omen and ladled himself a bowl. After a deep draught, he drifted into a deeper trance than he had ever been in, feeling himself like roots of old trees, speaking slowly over thousands 葉 of years with all the beings of the forest. “This,” he exclaimed, opening his eyes, “is the Empress of all medicinal herbs!” Shennong is a mythical emperor who ruled for a thousand years (a time meaning “long-term” though not quite endless, which would be 10,000). He is called “Divine Farmer” because he is credited with giving Chinese people agriculture and civilization. He is also the founder of herbal medicine. What he in fact represents is all the collective tribal wisdom of the pre-civilized chieftains, shamans and their cultures, who of course gave civilization to Chinese people through the evolution of time. This story highlights Tea’s desires to become human, and the preordained affair that would ensue: millennia of ongoing love that continues to deepen as we speak… The leaf that falls into the bowl signifies Nature’s efforts to communicate with human beings. It is the forest’s cell phone call, so to speak. Tea wants to be human, in other words. She longs for our bodies the way we long for ours. You could say that this herb is benign and suits the human body well—a powerful symbiosis born of Nature. It should also be noted that it is quite powerful for the legendary founder of all herbal medicine in China to proclaim tea the greatest of all medicinal herbs! There is another version of this story in which Shennong eats a deadly poison called “Dead in Seven Steps,” which he cannot mitigate with his internal alchemy. Knowing that he will die in a few minutes, the old sage decides to learn one more lesson (in an echo of old Soc- rates’ legend). Seeing a nearby tree that he has never encountered before, he decides to see what it does. Plucking a few leaves, he chews on them while meditating deeply. Amazingly, the leaves flush the deadly poison from his system, and he is saved. After offering prayers to the old tree, he begins a lifelong study of its healing powers. Of course, the tree was tea. This story highlights Tea’s ability to flush toxins from our systems—toxins of the body, and, more importantly, toxins of the spirit and mind as well.

56 Tea History The Jinsha River Rock Art 金沙( they even began planting these trees, place of tea, one can only imagine how 江岩画) in Yunnan are 3,000 years how long had they been using them in long the children of those forests had a old. The paintings are thought to the wild? After all, the site at Tian Luo relationship with this precious leaf we be produced by an ancient, now lost Shan is a great distance from the origin all love. Just months ago, many histo- and mysterious nomadic tribe of ab- place of tea in Yunnan. Was it brought rians might have scoffed at the claims originals. Little is known about these there by people? How long would that that tea’s heritage should be measured people, but like Yuanmo, they lived in take? in thousands, if not tens of thousands, the birthplace of tea, surrounded by These people must have had a of years. But a recent archaeological ancient tea trees. Most of the paintings strong understanding of this plant’s discovery has changed that. The find- are of hunting and warfare, as well as medicine. It was brought with them, ing of the oldest physical example of village life. Some scholars have inter- over an unknown number of genera- tea to date requires us to consider what preted some parts of the village scenes, tions, from its place of origin, Yunnan. this really tells us about the consump- as well as tree worship, to be in ref- As well as this, Neolithic life was one tion of tea in the past, and the length erence to tea. There is, of course, no based on survival, and so they would of time it has been used in humans. evidence that this is true and may be not have exerted energy and resources This long-winded history lesson wishful thinking. One imagines that into aspects of life that were not neces- was meant to encourage us to consid- people living around and through a tea sities. Even from this one discovery we er this latest discovery with more bal- forest would be called to the medicine do not find closure. Good science also anced eyes—not seeing it as pointing of this plant in the way that we are. always ends in questions. to a “starting date” for tea and human relations, but another splinter of the Within each moment, there is more happening than past that can deepen our understand- “ ing of the connection shared between could ever be described or known if you had all of eter- these two species. nity to expand upon it. We have only a small splinter of At another site, located along the understanding of the past. Our filters and ways of think- northern banks of the Wei River, just outside the city of Xi’an, lies the Han ing change the way we interpret the writings of茶 others, Yangling Mausoleum—built for the just as their record was filtered through their own per- Jing Emperor Liu Qi (188–141 BCE), the fourth emperor of the Western Han spective. This is even more true when we look at pre- Dynasty, and his wife. It is surrounded history, which is even looser and more open to interpre- by eighty-six outer burial pits. Between tation. 1998 and 2005, the Shaanxi Provincial ” Institute of Archaeology excavated one 道of these sites, and what they discovered Turning to more concrete data, in If we looked solely to the historical was noteworthy for any tea magazine! 2004, tea roots were unearthed in a facts for our understanding of tea, we Inside they found a number of decom- Neolithic settlement near the eastern would find the first unambiguous tex- posed plant remains, including millet, coast of China at a site in Tian Luo tual reference being dated at 59 BCE rice and chenopod. However, one sam- Shan (田螺山). Digging began there during the Western Han Dynasty. ple appeared to be made of plant leaves in 2001 to uncover a farmer society Widespread usage of tea by the north- pressed into a dark brown brick shape, called the “Hemudu” who grew rice ern and western Chinese people is gen- which may sound familiar to some of and raised animals. The tea roots were erally attributed to the Tang Dynasty, our readers! Dating the sample placed arranged in a regular pattern, with and the oldest physical evidence of tea, the plant material at ~255 ± 80 BCE, other agricultural crops around them, previously, was from the Song Dynasty, but due to decomposition, structural suggesting they were domesticated, which was between 960 and 1127 CE. analysis was impossible. The material though scholars have not reached a But here we must pause for a moment did appear to be made up of tea buds. consensus about that. In 2008, Jap- and reflect on the fact that when we “Imperial tea” normally contains only anese scientists did confirm that the study the “History of China,” we are tea buds and, sometimes, one or two of roots were Camellia genus, and most actually studying the “History of the the closest leaves. This was considered scholars and scientists agree that they Han Chinese.” The Han Chinese are preliminary evidence suggesting it may are Camellia sinensis, though there an ethnic group making up over 90% have been tea worthy of royalty and is not an absolute consensus on that. of the population of mainland China their journey into the afterlife. This evidence moved the date of tea today. Their ancestors are the Huaxia Further chemical analysis was re- drinking back into the late Stone Age, people who lived along the Huang He quired before any conclusions could around the fourth millennium BCE or Yellow River, far away from the for- be reached. Tea is the only plant that (3526–3366). est of Yunnan, where tea comes from. has both theanine and caffeine occur- Still, we have to cast our minds There, aboriginal tribes have lived for ring in it. These two chemicals actu- beyond this discovery. How long did millennia, developing cultures very ally have a magic when combined. tea and humans have a history togeth- different to their eastern cousins, with Caffeine is never naturally found in er before this? How long had humans a deep connection and dependence on isolation, which is often not real- been planting tea trees? And before their environment. Here in the birth- ized by most tea drinkers nowadays.

57/ The “Origins” of Tea

Tea History It was first extracted in 1819 by a Ger- matter. Here they found a significant eyelids or the leaf that fluttered into man scientist named Friedrich Run- abundance of both theanine and caf- the great mythical emperor Shennong’s ge. Theanine is known to increase the feine in the archaeological sample. On bowl, the beginnings transcend ratio- brain’s levels of GABA, the calming top of this, the phytoliths and calcium nal thought—just as the experience neurotransmitter, as well as increasing oxalate crystals were also analyzed and does. The story highlights Tea’s medic- alpha brain waves. These two synergize matched the genus Camellia. With inal, religious or meditative qualities when they are together, allowing you these three pieces of evidence (caffeine, and is a metaphor for a beginningless to feel both calm and awake. Laborato- theanine and calcium phytoliths), they beginning, which connects our tea ry studies have shown that the combi- were able to confirm they had discov- practice through this very bowl to all nation leads to a reduced susceptibility ered the oldest physical example of tea the bowls that have ever been held with to distracting information in memory to date! reverence, in sanctuary—all the way tasks, an increase in both speed and While we know humans have back to the bowl that transcends our accuracy in attention-switching tasks, drunk tea for at least thousands of abilities to record. Since so much tea faster numeric working memory reac- years, most likely tens of thousands of was unrecorded, enjoyed in silent bam- tion time, faster simple reaction time years, it is nice to have these tangible boo groves by men and women lost to and improved sentence verification examples. They inspire our love of the history, it is fitting that the beginnings accuracy. It also decreases any “neg- Leaf, knowing so many went before us of tea and human relationships should ative” effects of each chemical taken and encourage us to steward the prac- slip beyond the grasp of the intellect in an isolated form. Side effects such tice for those is the future. We can also and reside in the realm of myth and as headaches and tiredness have both imagine what it would be like to take metaphor, where gods and immortals been shown to decrease in studies, a few of those leaves, place them in a roam lonely paths through mist and while alertness ratings increased. So gongfu pot, and sit alone while our waterfalls, looking for cloud-hidden you can tell that to the next person soul is transported to another place in spots to set their wind-in-the-pines who asks if your tea contains caffeine! time, sharing tea with those long faded stoves a-simmering… Because tea contains these two into the veins of the Leaf. chemicals, the Shaanxi Provincial In- The true origins of tea are mytho- stitute of Archaeology was able to logical—always have been and always use biomarkers to identify the plant will be. Whether it is Bodhidharma’s Bodhidharma達摩 he great leonine sage of sages, Bodhidharma, had trekked over the Himalayas with the diamond mind of Zen. Finding no one receptive to his unorthodox and irrational teachings, he de- Tcided to rest in meditation. Like all sages before him, he found a trail leading nowhere and followed it up through the mists to cloudwalk the peaks. The bushy-browed old sage eventually found a cave to meditate 達被 within, staring at a wall for nine years in deep trances of emptiness. 喚 During the second year of his long retreat, the old sage began to 醒 grow weary and bleary-eyed. He wasn’t the first meditator to face 之 drowsiness. The Buddha himself had enumerated sleepiness as one 摩佛 of the “Five Enemies” of the meditator (the others being restlessness, 法 worry, craving and aversion). But Bodhidharma was the paragon of 和 discipline, strength and a spiritual warrior’s energy. This sleepiness he 光 could not stand! With a deft swipe, he took off his own eyelids and 眼的 tossed them over his shoulder, vowing to never sleep again. They say 液 that the following spring the eyelids sprouted shoots and began to 體 grow green towards the sky. As the old sage sat, the tree grew and grew, and by the time his nine years of peace were through, the two trees were fully grown. It is said that any who drink the leaves of this tree 瞼 will be free of sleepiness and have access to a bit of Bodhidharma’s meditative determination. To this day, the Leaf is sometimes referred to as “Bodhidharma’s Eyelids” or “The Eyelids of Awakening.” This old story may seem gruesome, but isn’t meant to highlight the macabre. Zen practitioners were obviously honoring tea as having originated from the very body of their own patriarch. The sacrifice of the body for Dharma (the truth or light) is a common theme in Zen. In fact, Bodhidharma’s first student, Huike, had to sacrifice his arm to even get the old grump to teach him anything. These allegories remind us that the body is impermanent and the teachings essential. Of course, this story also celebrates tea’s power to keep us awake and calm, much akin to the mind that is sought in meditation. Any student wish- ing to trace the history of tea must follow through trails that lead past Zen monasteries, as it was through the monastery that the mainstream of China was first introduced to tea. Zen monks and nuns were among the first, if notthe first humans to domesticate tea… Bodhidharma is actually the twenty-eighth teacher in a line of teacher-student links traced back to the Buddha himself. They say that Bodhidharma came to China because Buddhism was ending in India, and the soil was more fertile in China (though the soil would take some time to till), as the story goes. Though he lived fifty years in China, there is little by way of history surrounding the old sage. He is always depicted as uncouth and rude, representing determination and discipline, which are at the core of Zen practice. The scene of Bodhidharma wasting away in his cave without food, drink, nor sleep (as his eyelids had been discarded), became a popular symbol of determination, integrity and uprightness. This led to the creation of Daruma dolls, which are weighted egg-shaped toys that cannot be knocked over (a bit like the old Weeble Wobbles that “can’t fall down”). Though mostly lost to China, the tradition of making Daruma dolls continues in Japan. It is not uncommon to find them missing their eyelids as well (as those are found in the tea section of the store).

60 TeaWayfarer Each month, we introduce one of the Global Tea Hut members to you in order to help you get to know more people in this growing international community. It’s also to pay homage to the many manifestations that all this wonderful spirit and Tea are becoming as the Tea is drunk and becomes human. The energy of Tea fuels some great work in this world, and we are so honored to share glimpses of such beautiful people and their Tea. This month, we would like to introduce Frederik Wallin.

was traveling up to the northern part of Sweden together with my uncle (who also is a member of this I beautiful Tea community). Yes, my Tea story begins with snowboarding. I had been a skier since the age of four. My uncle had convinced me that skiing was silly, and that snowboarding was where the magic happened, so we were on our way for a full week of him teaching me how to snow- board. On our way up, he mentioned a podcast from Rich Roll, a triathlon and ultra-marathon athlete, and said he had two important episodes that we could listen to in the car. He couldn’t keep it to himself, though, and told me about the second one, including a crazy Tea monk called Wu De and a recipe of drinking three bowls of tea in the morning before doing anything else for at least a week. Since we were away for a week, we thought it an excellent idea to try this tea together, and so we did. The following week, we sat in the morning, drinking three steepings of a bag of Lipton in a mug in silence each and every day. But I think the real transformation happened on the way back to Stockholm when we listened to the podcast with Wu De. I was very intrigued and curious about this Way of Tea, as I have always been interested in meditation. This was in January, and the following month I had my 茶人: first Global Tea Hut envelope in my mailbox. I was astound- Frederik Wallin, Sweden ed at all the wisdom and information. What better way for me to start my journey than that? enough. There is always something new to learn at the foot The tea that was with the magazine was “Earth’s Trea- of the mountain, no matter how many times you climb it. sure,” a Five Element blend that both my uncle and I won- I was so excited about my first visit that I also came back dered a million times what was so special about this partic- this last November to serve two courses for some beautiful ular tea. It was earthy and tasted of hay, weird and dark and guests at the Tea Sage Hut. Diving deeper into the practice not at all what we were used to. Nevertheless, the magazine of Tea and bringing more of it back home, once again trans- was amazing, so we waited until next month and got to try formed me. I feel lucky to have encountered this tradition, a Ruby Red, and this was a lot more relatable to our very West- tradition of Tea that has become my Dao. Every day I wake ern experience of drinking tea. up and drink some tea in silence—often together with all Since these first encounters, I took the ten-day course at of you in spirit, serving you a bowl and raising it to the sky, the Tea Sage Hut, loving every microsecond of it. The gen- thinking of all the beautiful Tea-siblings whom I have not tle hearts that serve there inspired my own practice, and my even met yet. world has changed immensely since going there for the first Nowadays, Earth’s Treasure is one of my favorite Teas, time. Since then, I have been sharing tea at least once a week since that was my first connection to this Way of Tea, and I with my dear friends here in Sweden. Every moment of those sincerely hope that if you haven’t already, you will all get to sessions teaches me something, often basic, “step one” things try it someday. Or hey, why not swing by Stockholm, Swe- that I foolishly thought I already knew or had under control. den, and I will gladly serve it to you myself! Please do get Tea has of course taught me to take a step back to gain per- in touch via the app if you are ever around, as I am always spective and that you can never go back to step one often prepared to serve a bowl or cup of Tea to Chajin!

61/ TeaWayfarer Inside the Hut

Coming Soon to Global Tea Hut Magazine

茶主题: Tetsubins 茶主题:Classics of Tea 茶主题:Chajin & Teahouses 茶主题: Hunan Thousand Tael Tea

We need your help to get to a place where we We wanted to remind you to use the app to set can build your permanent Center, Light Meets Life. up your local community, to ask questions and share (And we do hope that you feel that our Center is yours, your daily tea. The more of us who use the app, the bet- not ours.) If everyone in this community helped us find ter it will be. And if you use it regularly, you can also just one friend or a loved one to join Global Tea Hut, form a community with local Chajin and build a beau- we would be looking for land and be breaking ground tiful tea family wherever you are. There are currently soon! We really are that close! Please help us spread the thriving tea communities with weekly gatherings all word about Global Tea Hut, sharing tea and love with around the world. This rich sharing is the spirit of Tea your community in person and through social media. and the essence of what Cha Dao is about. Let the app Also, let us know if you need any help in that! bring us all together, even from a distance!

Wu De will be in New York this coming June. We hope to see some East Coast friends at these events, which will be in the second half of the month. Stay tuned to our website for details! Center News Before you visit, check out the Center’s website (www.teasagehut.org) to read about Check out our live broadcasts on Facebook, In- the schedule, food, what you should bring, etc. stagram and soon YouTube, which we do every month. Make sure you apply early for courses as they Also, check out our “Life of Tea” podcast on Sound- fill up fast. This is why we need a bigger, more cloud and “Brewing Tea” video series on YouTube! awesome Center.

The schedule for the first half of the year is The annual trip is open for applications. If you full. However, you can put yourself on a waiting were a member throughout the entirety of 2018, join list, and there is still a chance you will be selected us for another epic voyage to China, this time walking if there is a cancellation. Also, if you have taken in the footsteps of the “Tea Saint,” Lu Yu, with Master a ten-day course before, you can apply to serve Tsai. Find out more on the website! a course, which is also a wonderful experience.

As long-term volunteers come and go, we thought it worth reminding you that you can apply for a one-year stay at Tea Sage Hut if you March Affirmation have taken a course (and preferably served one I am young and playful as well). Contact us through the Tea Sage Hut website to learn more. Age is a state of mind. Stay young at heart. As they say, we don’t stop playing because we grow old, We are saving up to buy or lease a van to but rather grow old because we stop playing. This drive you around during service periods and to spring, I remember to blossom like the flowers, to take you to the tea farm and mountain to fetch laugh and play more, smiling at the sun! water during courses. www.globalteahut.org GLOBAL EA HUT The most princely puerh magazine in the world! Tea & Tao Magazine Sharing rare organic teas, a magazine full of tea history, lore, translations, processing techniques and heritage, as well as the spiritual aspects of Cha Dao. And through it all, we make friends with fellow tea lovers from around the world.