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UpstreamWhen we decided on a trip down the Amazon, we knew we’d behold breathtaking vistas and magical rainforests — and we hoped to find some Jews TEXT AND PHOTOS BY Ari Greenspan and Ari Z. Zivotofsky on the banks of the world’s most massive river. Like every region that beckoned safety and financial opportunity, a town on the Amazon proved to be a haven for an oppressed people — but will the remnant be washed away with the rains? TEXT AND PHOTOS BY Ari Greenspan and Ari Z. Zivotofsky

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FF1. he boat slowly backed miles) —miles) — slightlyslightly shortershorter thanthan thethe NileNile butbut stillstill equivalentequivalent toto thethe out of the dock, turned distancedistance betweenbetween NewNew YorkYork andand Rome.Rome. (Actually,(Actually, thethe lengthlength ofof thethe AmazonAmazon hashas beenbeen thethe subjectsubject ofof debatedebate forfor closeclose toto aa century,century, around, and put the andand somesome claimclaim thatthat it’sit’s indeedindeed slightlyslightly longerlonger thanthan thethe Nile.)Nile.) TheThe motors full throttle. AmazonAmazon reaches reaches up up to to 50 50 miles miles wide; wide; and and Marajo, Marajo, the the world’s world’s It looked like we were largestlargest freshwaterfreshwater islandisland atat itsits mouth,mouth, isis thethe sizesize ofof Switzerland.Switzerland. TheThe Amazon Amazon is is joined joined and and engorged engorged by by many many smaller smaller rivers rivers heading into an ocean; (each(each enormous enormous by by world world standards), standards), discharging discharging an an awesome awesome in fact, we were headed 200,000200,000 cubiccubic metersmeters ofof freshwaterfreshwater everyevery second,second, moremore thanthan thethe down the . world’sworld’s nextnext sixsix biggestbiggest riversrivers combined.combined. ThisThis gargantuangargantuan riverriver isis surroundedsurrounded byby 5,500,0005,500,000 squaresquare kilometerskilometers (2,100,000(2,100,000 squaresquare The Amazon? You’re miles)miles) ofof densedense rainforest,rainforest, oneone ofof thethe lastlast unexploredunexplored areasareas ofof thethe probably raising your world.world. ItIt disgorgesdisgorges closeclose toto 2020 percentpercent ofof thethe world’sworld’s freshwaterfreshwater eyebrows — did we think we’d fi nd ancient intointo thethe AtlanticAtlantic Ocean,Ocean, whichwhich cancan stillstill bebe tastedtasted 100100 milesmiles outout inin thethe ocean.ocean. JewishT communities or unusual animals ButBut Jews? Jews? What What would would bring bring Jews Jews to to a a backward, backward, primitive primitive to shecht traveling down South America’s regionregion withwith swelteringsweltering heat,heat, disease,disease, andand rainrain forests?forests? YetYet therethere monster waterway? areare indeed indeed Jewish Jewish communities communities along along the the river. river. The The largest largest remainingremaining Jewish Jewish community community is is in in Belém, Belém, a a city city of of 1.5 1.5 million million Well, rivers often spawned civilizations, and historically, Jewish peoplepeople notnot farfar fromfrom thethe mouthmouth ofof thethe riverriver onon thethe Atlantic,Atlantic, whichwhich communities as well. Traditionally, cultures have always sprung todaytoday boastsboasts aboutabout 450450 JewishJewish families.families. OnOn thisthis trip,trip, wewe chosechose toto up along the banks of rivers, with the earliest cities being along visitvisit ,Manaus, capitalcapital ofof thethe statestate ofof AmazonasAmazonas inin northwestnorthwest BrazilBrazil 2. the Tigris and Euphrates — the birthplace of Avraham Avinu andand aa fifi ve-dayve-day boatboat rideride upriver.upriver. (We(We tooktook aa plane.)plane.) TheThe remoteremote F and many centuries later, the land where the Talmud Bavli was citycity hashas anan activeactive JewishJewish communitycommunity ofof aboutabout 120120 familiesfamilies (850(850 1.1. MoroccanMoroccan traditiontradition onon 3. written. Major cities and Jewish communities were formed along Jews).Jews). thethe banksbanks ofof thethe Amazon.Amazon. F the Rhine and Main rivers in Germany. Even the Land of Israel Dr.Dr. DahanDahan (right)(right) movedmoved is known by its main river, the Jordan, although by international TippingTipping thethe ScalesScales AlthoughAlthough wewe flfl ewew toto ,Brazil, what’swhat’s aa visitvisit fromfrom aa smallsmall villagevillage onon thethe AmazonAmazon toto Manaus,Manaus, wherewhere hehe standards it is more like a creek. When one thinks of large rivers, toto thethe AmazonAmazon regionregion withoutwithout atat leastleast aa shortshort boatboat journey?journey? OurOur currentlycurrently servesserves asas presidentchazzan the Nile comes to mind, and indeed Jews, including Moshe fifi rstrst stopstop onon thethe routeroute waswas aa flfl oatingoating gasgas station.station. WhileWhile thethe boatboat ofat thethe Jewishshul (pictured). community On and Rabbeinu and Moshe Maimonides, lived along its banks. At 6,800 fifi lledlled up,up, thethe 2020 oror soso touriststourists disembarkeddisembarked andand purchasedpurchased co›co— eeee chazzanthe left isat Mr. the Salomão shul (pictured) Israel kilometers (4,200 miles), it’s the longest river in the world. andand sodas,sodas, justjust likelike inin aa land-basedland-based roadsideroadside restrest stop.stop. AA fewfew hourshours Benchimol, the president of But in terms of sheer volume of water, no river holds a candle later,later, we we glided glided into into a a fl fl oatingoating restaurant. restaurant. Although Although there there was was 2.the Ari community Z. takes in the sights to the mighty Amazon, fl owing over 6,400 kilometers (over 4,000 almostalmost nothingnothing thatthat wewe couldcould eat,eat, asas luckluck wouldwould havehave it,it, wewe werewere along the river. A submerged forest2. Ari Z.is intakes the inbackground the sights along the river. A submerged 3.forest The Jewishis in the cemetery, background sharing space with the fi nal 4. resting3. The Jewish places cemetery,of the area’s F Christianseparated residents by fence from the fi nal resting places of the 4.area’s Ari G. Christian takes advantage residents of 5.

the rock-bottom price for a F haircut —4. Ari G. takes no shop advantage needed — of rightthe rock-bottom on the streets price of Manaus for a haircut — no shop needed — 5.right The on grave the streetsof the tzaddik of Manaus Rabbi Shalom Imanuel Muyal, still5. The remembered grave of the by tzaddik the JewsRabbi and Shalom revered Imanuel by local Muyal, In the middle of the Amazon River, Christiansstill remembered as a miracle by the worker a fl oating gas station Jews and revered by local Christians as a miracle worker

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6. F

about to find an answer to a halachic question we received a few the British planted rubber trees in Southeast Asia, and due to their weeks before heading out on this trip, regarding the kashrus of a greater efficiency, the British Empire quickly dominated the world gigantic Amazonian fish that can grow to an astounding 4.5 meters rubber market. The economy of the Amazon region plummeted. long. It’s called a paiche, also known as arapaima or pirarucu, and The rich left, taxes dried up, buildings were abandoned, and poverty is sometimes sold in New York area supermarkets. When it comes ensued. A short-lived second rubber boom took place during World to fish, kashrus status is pretty straightforward — as long asit War II when the Japanese occupied Southeast Asia, but the Amazon can be confirmed that the fish has easily removable scales (which region never recovered. automatically means it has fins), it is kosher. Having never seen It was during the 19th-century rubber boom that the Moroccan this fish, and having no access to it in Israel, we were not sure if it Jews made their trek to the Amazon. They hacked through forests, was kosher. Now we found ourselves first on a floating village in braved the tropical heat, battled disease, dealt with Native Americans, the Amazon feeding that species of fish, and then on the floating and made their way up and down the most complex ecosystem on the restaurant. While everyone else was eating the nonkosher food, planet — all in an attempt to make a better life for themselves and we headed to the small kitchen and requested to see a pirarucu their children, a life that included religious freedom and economic with its skin. We readily confirmed that it is kosher, with its huge, opportunity. easily removable scales. All told, this migration included about 1,000 families and untold Now we know there was some kosher fish for the early Jewish numbers of single young men. Originally, the Jews were peddlers, settlers, but how and why did they end up in this exotic, difficult- although on the Amazon, they didn’t use pushcarts, but rather plied to-reach, poor city in the first place? The first Jews actually their wares up and down the river on their boats. They would stop in arrived in the Amazon region in 1810 from Morocco, and there the cities to pick up products, which they would then sell along the is still an extant tombstone from 1848. There is a popular river in the small villages, where they in turn picked up indigenous misconception that historically, while Jews in Christian Europe wares to be sold in the cities. The Jews of the Amazon, therefore, were suffered from oppressive anti-Semitism, the Jews in Arab lands 6. A perch atop a huge floating log not solely “big-city Jews.” Some clusters consisting of no more than affords a visitor a closer view of the lived in harmony with the majority rulers until Zionism aroused three or four families also made their homes in the region’s many meter-wide Victoria water lily anti-Zionist and anti-Semitic sentiments. small villages. But the Jews of 19th century Morocco could challenge any such assertion. While the arrival of Europeans enabled many Jews 7. 8. Not your garden variety. Moroccan Mystique To Ashkenazim, all Moroccans might in northern Moroccan ports to advance socioeconomically, it F Ari G. gets friendly with a monster seem the same, but within their community there are differences in actually meant greater poverty among Jews in the interior. Many anaconda snake minhag between the native Moroccans and those who arrived after destitute Jews began to move to already overcrowded cities, and the Spanish-Portuguese expulsions 500 years ago. Some of these that, coupled with ill-fated midcentury Moroccan-European wars 8. differences are significant, such as how to define treifos in the lungs that resulted in the Jews being labeled unfortunate scapegoats, F of cows. There are also subtle differences in the prayer service. Thus meant the desperate Moroccan Jews scanned the map looking Beth Yacov, the first synagogue founded in Manaus in 1928, was the for a safe haven with economic potential. Enter the Amazonian synagogue for descendants of the expellees. Due to the disagreements rubber boom. between them and the native Moroccans, a second synagogue, Rebi Meyr, was built a few years later. In the 1950s, the community faced Stretched by the Rubber Boom Natural rubber comes steady erosion and each synagogue had difficulty getting a minyan. from the rubber tree that grows in tropical regions. It was And so in 1962 they joined forces to build one new shul, known as discovered and used by the South American Indians thousands of Beth Yacov Rebi Meyr. years ago, but it wasn’t until the 1800s that Europeans discovered It is to this shul that its chazzan, Dr. Isaac Dahan, a dentist and practical uses for it. This new demand led to what is known as the gastroenterologist by profession, took us. The first thing we couldn’t first rubber boom, which began in 1879 and led to fantastic wealth help notice was the large concrete wall separating the shul from the for the region and the rapid urbanization of Belém and Manaus — street. Dr. Dahan almost apologetically told us that it used to be more the most advanced cities in Brazil at the time. Soon these cities aesthetic, with a lower wall, but “the Israelis told us we should make had electricity, running water, and sewers. Imposing European- it higher for security reasons.” The interior of the main synagogue style luxury buildings were constructed, pound sterling became is well-kept, indicating it’s clearly an active shul. The most unusual the local currency, and Manaus became the leading city in the sale feature — one that we had never seen before in any shul — is the of diamonds. This newfound prosperity brought many Jewish 7.7. With With aa womanwoman servingserving asas president,president, thethe JewsJews ofof ManausManaus large shtender front and center in the women’s balcony. The shul’s families, and even more single men, to the Amazon region. addedadded aa lecternlectern toto thethe women’swomen’s section,section, allowingallowing herher toto president, Mr. Salomão Israel Benchimol, explained that the previous Then the bottom fell out. Using seeds smuggled out of Brazil, makemake thethe requisiterequisite announcementsannouncements withoutwithout enteringentering thethe president of the community had been Anne Benchimol, a woman who men’smen’s sectionsection ofof thethe shulshul was very helpful in setting up our trip. (Yes — the names hint at the

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9. factfact that that the the presidency presidency has has indeed indeed run run in in the the family family for for many many years.) years.) SplittingSplitting thethe SeaSea F Within this traditional community, there was never any question of mixed Within this traditional community, there was never any question of mixed Months earlier, when we had researched the Jewish settlements of the Amazon, seating in shul, and thus, in order to accommodate the public addresses of seating in shul, and thus, in order to accommodate the public addresses of we had heard about an astounding phenomenon known as “The Meeting of Waters,” the female president, they added the lectern in the balcony. the female president, they added the lectern in the balcony. in which the flowing sandy-colored Amazon River is joined by the , a river While we toured the shul, one of the community employees came in and While we toured the shul, one of the community employees came in and with black-hued water. For six kilometers after the of these two rivers, their told us her family story. She is the only one still in Brazil; the others are told us her family story. She is the only one still in Brazil; the others are waters continue to flow side by side without mixing. It’s a major tourist attraction, all in Israel. When we asked her where they live, she listed several places, all in Israel. When we asked her where they live, she listed several places, and as we recited the brachah on G-d’s wonders, we understood why. While a similar and mentioned that she has a chareidi brother living in Neve Yaakov. “We and mentioned that she has a chareidi brother living in Neve Yaakov. “We effect happens to a lesser degree in other rivers and it is explainable by the differences were raised in a traditional, kosher home,” she said. “Now my brother is were raised in a traditional, kosher home,” she said. “Now my brother is in temperature and speed of the two rivers, seeing a phenomenon of such magnitude preserving the traditions, and I am the one who unfortunately is keeping preserving the traditions, and I am the one who unfortunately is keeping up close evokes a sense of amazement and wonderment. Our boat stopped and for them less.” them less.” several moments, we, together with tourists from around the world, stared in awe at 10. this wonder of nature. F Having done our What’sWhat’s inin aa Name?Name? Having done our But then the boat started to move again and we were drawn back to a different research before we arrived, we wanted to research before we arrived, we wanted to world, where strange questions about the origin of a name lead some people to see the real treasure in the shul. We asked see the real treasure in the shul. We asked see Jews everywhere. While most of the world refers to the main river that the Rio our hosts to open the aron kodesh, and were our hosts to open the aron kodesh, and were Negro joins as simply “the Amazon,” locals call the part of the Amazon upstream of surprised to see the large number of sifrei surprised to see the large number of sifrei the meeting point the Solimões River. The commonly accepted explanation for that Torah. But that’s not what we were looking Torah. But that’s not what we were looking name is that it is a corruption of the name of an Aborigine nation, the Soriman, which for. The prize — and the pride of their for. The prize — and the pride of their became Solimao and Soliemoens. A more imaginative explanation is that the name is community — was the Torah scroll standing community — was the Torah scroll standing from Shlomo Hamelech — and that his fleets had actually reached the upper regions on the far right. Recent research confirms on the far right. Recent research confirms of the Amazon. A “proof” of this theory is brought from I Kings 10:22, which states: that it was written in Spain, probably 450 that it was written in Spain, probably 450 “For the king had at sea a ship of Tarshish with a ship of Hiram: once in three years the years ago, and it then accompanied the years ago, and it then accompanied the ship of Tarshish came, bringing gold, and silver, and ivory, and apes and peacocks.” expelled Jews to Morocco. It was brought to expelled Jews to Morocco. It was brought to Traditional commentators have these boats sailing to Spain, Africa, maybe even India. the Amazonas by Jews seeking a better life the Amazonas by Jews seeking a better life More creative minds see it as a reference to Shlomo Hamelech’s ships reaching the as they made their way up the Amazon River. as they made their way up the Amazon River. Amazon — and surmise that perhaps some Jews were left behind, becoming the The sefer Torah was originally brought to the The sefer Torah was originally brought to the earliest Jewish settlers of the region. tiny village of Itacoatiara, 270 kilometers tiny village of Itacoatiara, 270 kilometers The theory sounds interesting — especially if you’re standing at the very source of downstream from Manaus, where a handful downstream from Manaus, where a handful it — but we tend to accept the conventional claim that the earliest Jews to reach the of Jews had settled at the end of the 19th of Jews had settled at the end of the 19th Amazon arrived in the early 19th century. century.century. By By the the 1950s, 1950s, there there were were no no Jews Jews leftleft therethere andand thethe TorahTorah migratedmigrated upstreamupstream toto Manaus, Manaus, where where it it is is treated treated as as a a prized prized toto spendspend aa ShabbosShabbos withwith them,them, butbut wewe diddid hearhear aboutabout thethe FridayFriday nightnight daveningdavening thatthat F possession.possession. ItIt isis removedremoved fromfrom thethe aronaron andand attractsattracts 120 120 people, people, the the Shabbat Shabbat morning morning service, service, and and even even the the Thursday Thursday morning morning 11. 9. A wall separates the graves usedused justjust onceonce aa year,year, onon YomYom Kippur.Kippur. AndAnd minyan.minyan. All All davening davening is is led led by by Dr. Dr. Dahan, Dahan, who who has has been been the the chazzan chazzan for for decades. decades. In In years years of Manaus’s Christians from the althoughalthough over over the the years years a a significant significant numbernumber past,past, because because many many small small Jewish Jewish communities communities did did not not have have a a rabbi, rabbi, the the concept concept of of a a graves of local Jews ofof JewsJews havehave movedmoved toto IsraelIsrael fromfrom thethe AmazonAmazon reverend —reverend — aa knowledgeableknowledgeable baalbaal tefillahtefillah andand teacher —teacher — camecame intointo existence.existence. InIn somesome region,region, all all suggestions suggestions to to bring bring this this Torah Torah scroll scroll placesplaces hehe functionedfunctioned asas thethe personperson toto dodo aa brisbris oror performperform aa wedding.wedding. ThatThat seemsseems toto bebe 10. View of the aron kodesh in onon aliyah aliyah have have been been fervently fervently rejected rejected by by the the thethe position position of of Dr. Dr. Dahan. Dahan. Manaus, home of the treasured community community — — they they take take great great pride pride in in it it and and HeHe explainedexplained toto usus thatthat hehe waswas bornborn inin aa tinytiny villagevillage onon thethe river,river, wherewhere hishis familyfamily andand sefer Torah written centuries ago itsits link link to to their their origins. origins. However, However, due due to to age age threethree othersothers werewere thethe onlyonly Jews.Jews. HisHis fatherfather soldsold BrazilBrazil nutsnuts onon thethe river.river. HeHe hashas beenbeen inin in Spain andand the the region’s region’s humidity, humidity, the the scroll scroll has has not not ManausManaus now now for for 45 45 years years and and is is a a pillar pillar of of its its Jewish Jewish community. community.

faredfared well, well, and and there there are are many many holes holes in in the the Dr.Dr. DahanDahan waswas kindkind enoughenough toto showshow usus aroundaround Manuas,Manuas, focusingfocusing onon thethe JewishJewish sites.sites. 11. Ari Z. examines a tree sloth parchment.parchment. ItIt isis aa citycity burstingbursting withwith tropicaltropical fruitsfruits andand freshfresh fishfish onon oneone hand,hand, andand underprivilegedunderprivileged TheThe shul shul is is the the center center of of the the organized organized pauperspaupers inin thethe streetsstreets onon thethe other.other. AriAri G.G. gotgot himselfhimself aa cheapcheap haircuthaircut byby aa barberbarber whowho JewishJewish community, community, known known in in Portuguese Portuguese as as setset upup shopshop onon aa plasticplastic chairchair onon thethe sidewalk.sidewalk. WhileWhile drivingdriving throughthrough town,town, wewe discusseddiscussed ComiteComite Israelita Israelita do do Amazonas. Amazonas. It It is is an an active active withwith Dr. Dr. Dahan Dahan the the state state of of the the Jewish Jewish community. community. He He was was proud proud of of their their traditions, traditions, and and communitycommunity and and one one that that takes takes great great pride pride despitedespite notnot havinghaving aa rabbirabbi forfor thethe lastlast 30-plus30-plus years,years, hehe relatedrelated thatthat theythey havehave followedfollowed inin its its accomplishments. accomplishments. We We were were not not able able thethe TorahTorah ofof theirtheir forefathers —forefathers — hehe isis thethe chazzanchazzan,, andand whenwhen thethe needneed arises,arises, theythey knowknow

6262 MISHPACHAMISHPACHA 1111 Teves Teves 5776 5776 | | December December 23, 23, 2015 2015

ari n ari_590.indd 62 20/12/2015 17:24:11 ari n ari_590.indd 63 20/12/2015 17:24:28 SailingSailing UpstreamUpstream Headlines radio show for theJewish Mind Tune in! how to perform funerals and weddings. When we asked him what aa plotplot withwith aa simplesimple headstoneheadstone toppedtopped byby aa MagenMagen David.David. TheThe individualsindividuals startedstarted creditingcrediting herher withwith supernaturalsupernatural powers,powers, sheshe saidsaid thatthat allall ofof the the for interesting topics & halacha discussion happens if they have a question for a rabbi, he said they can call one entireentire tomb tomb was was surrounded surrounded and and covered covered by by a a metal metal fence, fence, with with creditcredit belonged belonged not not to to her her but but to to the the rabbi, rabbi, whom whom she she labeled labeled a a saint. saint. in Belém, and if that is not enough, they call a rabbi in São Paolo. manymany smallsmall stonestone plaquesplaques addedadded overover timetime lininglining thethe wall.wall. ThisThis FromFrom that that day day on, on, Christians Christians have have been been visiting visiting Rabbi Rabbi Muyal’s Muyal’s tomb, tomb, praying praying for for There are numerous communal activities, including a joint waswas the the burial burial site site of of the the Jewish Jewish “saint,” “saint,” Rabbi Rabbi Shalom Shalom Imanuel Imanuel miraclesmiracles and and claiming claiming to to have have been been answered. answered. Dr. Dr. Dahan Dahan is is a a bit bit skeptical, skeptical, though, though, motzai shabbos monday morning second Seder (the first is a family event), and a Chanukah lighting Muyal,Muyal, and and the the plaques plaques were were non-Jewish non-Jewish “thank-you” “thank-you” notes notes andand toldtold usus howhow thethe JewishJewish communitycommunity firstfi rst builtbuilt aa fencefence aroundaround thethe grave,grave, andand 11:00 pm -12:00 midnight 11:00 am -12:00 noon nachumsegal.com in one of the large shopping malls byby people people who who felt felt that that he he thenthen aa coveringcovering overover itit toto trytry toto preventprevent peoplepeople fromfrom addingadding thosethose plaques.plaques. But,But, hehe wmca 570 am nachumsegal.com in Manaus. Brissim are performed hadhad performedperformed miraclesmiracles forfor said,said, “they “they just just keep keep getting getting in.” in.” He He explained explained that that to to the the Jewish Jewish community, community, Rabbi Rabbi by a local doctor who has been Fishing for kashrus. Once we knew it was kosher, the hunt them.them. They They were were dated dated right right MuyalMuyal isis simplysimply consideredconsidered aa dedicateddedicated rabbirabbi whowho dieddied manymany yearsyears ago,ago, honoredhonored Wednesday night doing them for over 40 years. was on for some pirarucu of our own upup until until last last year. year. onon his his yahrtzeityahrtzeit (Rosh (Rosh Chodesh Chodesh Adar Adar II), II), and and during during Aseres Aseres Yemei Yemei Teshuvah. Teshuvah. Yet all is not rosy. Although the WhoWho was was this this tzaddik, tzaddik, ThereThere havehave beenbeen suggestionssuggestions toto reburyrebury himhim inin Israel,Israel, oror atat leastleast inin thethe ManausManaus 9:00 pm -10:00 pm wsnr 620 am community built a new mikveh whosewhose influence infl uence is is still still felt felt JewishJewish cemetery,cemetery, suggestionssuggestions thatthat werewere vociferouslyvociferously opposedopposed byby thethe ChristiansChristians three years ago and is currently afterafter an an entire entire century? century? andand wiselywisely notnot carriedcarried throughthrough byby thethe JewishJewish community,community, becausebecause asas Dr.Dr. DahanDahan making plans to build new WithWith large large numbers numbers explained,explained, suchsuch aa stepstep mightmight harmharm relationsrelations betweenbetween thethe JewishJewish andand non-Jewishnon-Jewish to our recent classrooms, the kehillah suffers ofof mostly mostly single single Jews Jews residentsresidents of of the the region. region. special shows! greatly from intermarriage. Along havinghaving made made their their way way up up listen the Amazon over the years, the thethe Amazon Amazon in in the the late late KapparahKapparah onon YourYour HeadHead AA fewfew hourshours beforebefore leavingleaving thethe citycity andand headingheading Jewish men would sometime 1800s,1800s, someone, someone, perhaps perhaps backback to to Israel, Israel, we we visited visited the the Chabad Chabad rabbi rabbi in in another another part part of of the the city. city. It It was was NY State GET law take a wife from the non-Jewish aa concerned concerned Moroccan Moroccan surprisingsurprising to to us us that that this this traditional traditional Moroccan Moroccan community community for for the the most most part part women in villages on the river. So mother,mother, decided decided they they ignoresignores hishis presencepresence (one(one ofof hishis mostmost successfulsuccessful activitiesactivities isis hishis seriesseries ofof shiurimshiurim today it’s possible to find entire neededneeded aa spiritualspiritual infusion.infusion. onon thethe SevenSeven NoachideNoachide LawsLaws forfor non-Jews).non-Jews). WeWe hadhad aa wonderfulwonderful chatchat withwith RabbiRabbi Rabbi Yehuda Dovid Bleich Rosh Yeshiva & Rosh Kollel LeHora’ah hamlets of families with Jewish RabbiRabbi Shalom Shalom Imanuel Imanuel AriehArieh RaichmanRaichman andand hishis adorableadorable kinderlachkinderlach,, withwith whomwhom hehe conversesconverses inin YiddishYiddish at Rabbeinu Yitzchok Elchonon’s surnames like Ben Dahan, Ben MuyalMuyal was was dispatched dispatched andand with with whom whom we we ate ate a a novel novel delicacy delicacy — — chocolate chocolate pizza. pizza. Rabbi Rabbi Raichman Raichman is is Lulu, and Ben Shimoul, yet none toto the the region region in in 1908. 1908. He He fluentfl uent inin English,English, Hebrew,Hebrew, Yiddish,Yiddish, Portuguese,Portuguese, andand Spanish,Spanish, andand isis enthusiasticenthusiastic of them are in fact Jewish. slowlyslowly made made his his way way up up aboutabout running running programs programs in in the the city. city. did you marry thethe river, river, traversing traversing the the AndAnd whilewhile thethe MoroccansMoroccans mightmight bebe entrenchedentrenched inin theirtheir traditionstraditions andand feelfeel theythey your bashert? Buried Secrets Graves 2,0002,000 kilometers kilometers from from cancan dodo finefi ne onon theirtheir own,own, they’rethey’re visiblyvisibly gratefulgrateful forfor atat leastleast oneone ofof RabbiRabbi Raich-Raich - rabbi eytan feiner רב איתן פיינר are always a good source of BelémBelém to to Manaus. Manaus. There There man’sman’s programs —programs — kapparoskapparos.. KapparosKapparos waswas aa traditiontradition handedhanded downdown fromfrom theirtheir Rav of Congregation Kneseth Israel, information about a Jewish hehe confronted confronted the the enemies enemies fathers,fathers, andand thethe communitycommunity waswas determineddetermined toto perpetuateperpetuate thethe tradition.tradition. InIn thethe The White Shul in Far Rockaway community’s history, and in thatthat were were ravaging ravaging many many absenceabsence ofof aa shochetshochet,, however,however, theythey simplysimply killedkilled thethe chickens.chickens. ThanksThanks toto RabbiRabbi addition to the cemeteries in ofof the the rubber rubber workers workers — — Raichman,Raichman, theythey nownow areare providedprovided withwith overover aa hundredhundred livelive chickenschickens forfor kapparoskapparos,, Belém and Manuas, there are malaria,malaria, yellow yellow fever, fever, and and andand arrangements arrangements are are made made for for the the shechitah shechitah too. too. parnassah: dealing with the hundreds of Jewish graves hepatitis.hepatitis. YetYet isis traditiontradition alonealone enoughenough toto sustainsustain thisthis dwindlingdwindling kehillahkehillah?? WhenWhen wewe werewere challenge of life after kollel scattered along the shores of the NoNo one one yet yet knew knew who who he he inin the the cemetery, cemetery, we we noticed noticed two two large large cement cement plates plates on on the the ground. ground. Dr. Dr. Dahan Dahan said said and Amazon. It’s a testament to all waswas whenwhen hehe tootoo contractedcontracted theythey markedmarked thethe genizahgenizah,, andand naturallynaturally wewe wantedwanted toto seesee thethe contents.contents. However,However, those Jews who lived in many yellowyellow fever; fever; he he was was just just afterafter separating separating the the plates plates and and peering peering in, in, it it became became clear clear that that the the extreme extreme small villages along the river, oneone of of many many ill ill people, people, and and humidityhumidity and and rain rain has has caused caused anything anything that that might might have have been been in in there there to to have have in addition to the two main cities. So we were grateful when nono oneone wantedwanted toto tendtend toto hishis needs.needs. OneOne brave,brave, compassionatecompassionate decomposed.decomposed. Dr. Dahan took us to the old cemetery in Manuas, where he WhileWhile Manaus Manaus is is a a tiny tiny but but still still vibrant vibrant community, community, it it seems seems as as if if its its future future is is like like soulsoul from from within within the the community community cared cared for for him him until until his his Rabbi Aaron kotler dr. alAn kadish, md explained that the area actually holds two cemeteries side by passingpassing twotwo yearsyears laterlater inin 1910.1910. AtAt thethe timetime therethere waswas notnot yetyet thatthat of of so so many many of of the the world’s world’s struggling struggling kehilloskehillos we’ve we’ve visited. visited. The The youth youth have have left, left, chief executive officer of President & chief executive officer of touro בית מדרש גבוה the side: Jewish and Catholic. aa JewishJewish cemetery,cemetery, soso hehe waswas interredinterred smacksmack inin thethe middlemiddle ofof manymany onon aliyah.aliyah. IntermarriageIntermarriage isis affectinga¡ ecting thethe remainder.remainder. Manaus’sManaus’s gloriousglorious pastpast We drove through the gates and were surrounded by big thethe Christian Christian cemetery. cemetery. The The compassionate compassionate woman woman who who had had isis aa testamenttestament toto thethe strengthstrength andand commitmentcommitment ofof AmAm YisraelYisrael throughthrough thethe ages,ages, Catholic mausoleums, and then wended our way through a treatedtreated himhim thenthen continuedcontinued toto treattreat otherother sicksick people,people, mostlymostly butbut itsits long-termlong-term future,future, likelike thethe genizahgenizah,, willwill havehave toto weatherweather manymany elementselements ofof thicket of graves adorned with crosses. We eventually reached non-Jews,non-Jews, many many of of whom whom recovered. recovered. When When these these grateful grateful naturenature that that are are working working against against it. it. —— Listen Anytime! audios of past shows available on podcast.headlinesbook.com and itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/headlines/id1048703487

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