ZÜRICH 215 Kunsthaus (24Km) to Winterthur © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Fraumünster LANGUAGE: GERMAN LANGUAGE: „ Schiffbau Züri-West Uetliberg

ZÜRICH 215 Kunsthaus (24km) To Winterthur © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Fraumünster LANGUAGE: GERMAN LANGUAGE: „ Schiffbau Züri-West Uetliberg

AREA: 1729 SQ KM „ ( p237 ) for Schiffbau Fraumünster ( p217 ). ( p225 ). ( p238 ). Uetliberg Kunsthaus Züri-West Züri-West Winterthur stained-glass in the windows ( p217 ). science museum and nearby Schloss science museum and nearby Schloss in Kyburg ( p227 ) and doing a round of the bars ) and doing a round of the bars p227 ( in afterwards figures, Dadaist works and other modern Dadaist works and other modern figures, art in Zürich’s excellent hiking and panoramic views.

a train up to Taking the art Visiting galleries, Technorama in the in some theatre Taking Admiring the Alberto Giacometti stick Marc Chagall’s Genuflecting before POPULATION: 350,125 POPULATION:

„ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS „

Beyond the city, in the rest of the canton of the same name, the heights of Uetliberg are are heights of Uetliberg of the canton of the same name, the Beyond the city, in the rest Much of the ancient centre, with its winding lanes and tall church steeples, has been kept has and tall church steeples, with its winding lanes Much of the ancient centre, Once famed for its hard-drug problem, Switzerland’s biggest city is undeniably hip – and biggest city is undeniably hip problem, Switzerland’s Once famed for its hard-drug

„ terthur, to the northeast, art is a cultural powerhouse, with major and science museums. inviting to walkers and there are countless pretty spots, such as Rapperswil, along the lake. Win- such as Rapperswil, spots, along the lake. countless pretty are inviting to walkers and there the whole area is dubbed, is the epicentre of the city’s nightlife. is the epicentre is dubbed, the whole area have been caught up in an urban renovation revolution since the mid-1990s. Züri-West, as since the mid-1990s. revolution been caught up in an urban renovation have Kreis 4, long the near-exclusive domain of drug dealers, street mafiosi and prostitutes, which mafiosi and prostitutes, drug dealers, street domain of 4, long the near-exclusive Kreis trends. Nowhere is that clearer than in abandoned industrial Kreis (district) 5 and adjacent than in abandoned industrial Kreis is that clearer Nowhere trends. lovingly intact. The city, however, is no stick-in-the-mud stranger to contemporary design is no stick-in-the-mudcontemporary stranger to city, however, intact. The lovingly into a festive vortex – its summer Street Parade is one of Europe’s largest street parties. street largest is one of Europe’s Parade vortex – its summer Street into a festive hard-working early risers but, come clock-off time, they throw themselves wholeheartedly time, they throw themselves hard-working clock-off early risers but, come with Berlin, it has grubby(ish) districts alongside posh quarters. The locals may be earnest, locals may districtswith Berlin, it has grubby(ish) The alongside posh quarters. its European engineering centre here? With a grungy, wacky, art-world freedom one associates one associates With a grungy, wacky, art-world freedom here? centre engineering its European efficient – why else would Google (whose local employees are called Zooglers) have located located called Zooglers) have Google (whose local employees are efficient – why else would edge that would seem more at home in a German Ruhr Valley town. German Ruhr Valley at home in a more edge that would seem sibly the densest public transport system in the world, but it also has a gritty, post-industrial transportsibly the densest public the world, but it also has a gritty, post-industrial in system Zürich is an enigma. It is the epitome of Swiss efficiency: a savvy financial centre with pos- centre efficiency: a savvy financial It is the epitome of Swiss Zürich is an enigma. Zürich ZÜRICH 216 northwest endof Zürich). Zürichsee (Lake Zürich spreads around bothbanksof the ORIENTATION hang-outs. hippest Zürich’s bankers) intooneof centralEurope’s side cityof the‘gnomes’(Britparlancefor activities have transformedthe grey lake- and active supportfora plethoraof cultural town. Relaxed laws governing bars andclubs backing forthecity’sawakening asacool intact. centres. Ofcourse, thecity’swealthremains publicinjection problem withsupervised away, butthecityiskeeping alidonthe dismantled. Theheroinaddictshaven’t gone In 1995thedrugsupermarket was atLetten overtand startlingly heavy drugproblem. its dourProtestant workethicandwealth the city.TheZürich of before wasknownfor Hall) intheearly1990schanged thefaceof (TownDemocrat regime intheRathaus ruletoaSocial the switch fromconservative für Museum ( Gestaltung opposite ). and thePlakatraum(Poster Collection)of the on displayinZürich’s Kunsthaus( opposite ) Hans ArpandMax Ernst.Dadaistworksare its spiritlived onintheworksof Georg Grosz, Zürich. By1923themovement wasdead,but ter-cultural Dadaartmovement wasbornin in thewake of thehorrors of WWI,thecoun- hungouthere.Joyce andVladimirLenin And sonalities bothinwartimeandpeace. James world wars, Zürich attracted allsortsof per- rich ontextiles and banking. ( opposite ). Inthefollowingcenturies,itgrew key playerintheReformationunderZwingli tion and,intheearly16thcentury,becamea is a Only localscanjoinandmanyacitybigwig festivalto playfortheSechseläuten ( p221 ). tunes. Many stillexisttodayandcomeout which forlongafter directed thecity’s for- the nobles andcreating the13 craftsmen andtraders tookpower,expelling perous townunderwentaminorrevolution as in byAD400and,1336,thealready pros- tribesmovedment calledTuricum.Germanic city, Zürich started life asaRomanencamp- Today frequently voted Europe’smostliveable HISTORY More theTownHall’s visiblehasbeen Politicians Due toSwitzerland’sneutralityduringboth In 1351,Zürich joinedtheSwissConfedera- Zunft ÜIH • itr ZÜRICH ••History member. can make allthedifference: Zünfte ( guilds), as Züri-Westandstretching westof the hofquai 3) English-language bookshop. 70; Bahnhofstrasse central. Enter via Mühlegasse. Niederdorf; perhrSfr10; Niederdorf; ad Schwyz. and it runsintotheeastern cantonsof St Gallen a juicyfat Zürichsee dropsawaytothesoutheastlike northeast, hassomeremarkable museums. east andnorthof thecity.Winterthur, tothe Hardstrasse. www.kulturmeile.ch), dubbed theKulturmeile(culture mile; along whatthecityfathershowever, have tions. Themainfocusof Kreis 5action is, down alittlebutstilloffers plentyof op- railway linesintoKreis 5,where itquietens shops, eateries, bars and shows. peep islinedwithopportunity tred onLangstrasse, Kreis 5. former working-classdistricts:Kreis 4and Hauptbahnhof, isprimarilymadeupof two Hauptbahnhof (maintrainstation). of cappedatthenorthby Bahnhofstrasse, bank runsthehoity-toityshoppingavenue restaurants, bars andshops; downthewest on theriver’s eastbankare crammedwith narrow streets of theNiederdorfquarter citycentresplitting themedieval intwo. The The LimmatRiver runsfurthernorthstill, Quanta Internetcafe Internet Access Police station Emergency ZürichCard Füssli Orell Bookshops museum admission and more. free train station,thisprovidesfree publictransport, Sfr34/24) Available office andtheairport fromthetourist laptop (Swisspower points, p349 ). your 8am-11pmSat,10am-10pmSun)Youcan connect Fri, .ch; Uraniastrasse3;perminSfr0.30; Dson Card Discount INFORMATION Langstrasse continuesnorthover theLangstrasse Kreis 4,stillared-light districtandcen- The reborn hippartof thecity,known The bulkof thecantonof Zürich spreads (Map (Map p220 ; (Map (Map p220 ; (per24hradult/childSfr17/12,per72hr (Map (Map p220 ; Kalbswurst (Map (Map p220 ; h % 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat) 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, % h 044 2607266;Limmatquai 94, % % 044 211 04 44; www.books.ch; 044 2110444;www.books.ch; 9am-midnight) Noisybut (veal where sausage), 044 2103311;www.e-cafe 044 2167111;Bahn- h lonelyplanet.com 7am-11pm Mon-