PIRATES, WHALERS AND NAVIGATORS HAD THEIR DAY. NOW IT’S YOUR TIME TO ENJOY .

ENJOY YOUR MOMENT Lekeitioko Lekeitio is a town located in a small estuary surrounded by mountains and protected by an Udala island which can be reached on foot twice a day. Lekeitio has always been and still is mostly about the sea and that means fishing, trade, culture, identity and a very interesting history. Whalers, pirates, merchants, artisans, explorers, dock workers, fishermen and even an Austro- TOURISM OFFICE Hungarian empress have walked its streets. Independentzia enparantza, z/g While they are no longer here, they have left SANTA KATALINA Tel.: 94 684 40 17 · Fax: 94 684 41 67 their mark and this can be seen when taking a Today with our satellites, electric [email protected] stroll through its old town, the area around the beacons and communication, www.lekeitio.org wall or the docks. They had their moment and they took advantage of it. localisation and orientation systems we can’t imagine the importance Now it’s your turn, enjoy it! that lighthouses once had. Their light could be the difference between reaching port and being shipwrecked.

IX-XVII: XXV-XVIII: WHALERS AND MERCHANTS Non Gogoa, Han Zangoa NAVIGATORS AND PIRATES Which means something like “put your foot where you have The Basque fleet was the first to commercially The people of Lekeitio created a intentions” is an old Basque hunt whales. From the 8th century until the 12th, it large trade network that spanned saying that was appropriate for dominated the hunting and trade in whales. Thanks from the Nordic countries to the sailors, merchants and pirates in to them, Lekeitio experienced great prosperity. Mediterranean. We have always an era when the world was still been seafarers and merchants. But big. Something we can see in in those days, being a seafarer the basilica of Lekeitio. It is very rich in religious heritage brought and a merchant often meant back from overseas: alabaster, privateering and even piracy tombstones, Flemish altarpiece when circumstances so demanded. ... in addition to the size and architectural richness of the The Whalers building itself. The typical Basque whaling ship stood out for its higher sides due to having two castle-like structures and three masts. They were more suited to Letter crossing the ocean and also had of Marque a greater cargo capacity than The magic potion The Letter of Marque was the ships in that era. Basque sailors didn’t drink water Iñigo de Artieta a document by which the Two of those old shipyards, but instead had cider (2.5 litres (Merchant and privateer) monarchy guaranteed where in their day the best per person per day) which, immunity to sailors who armed boats in the world were built, combined with their diet, helped theirs ships and attacked still survive in Lekeitio. them avoid scurvy. merchants from rival kingdoms. XIX: ARRANTZA THE HAPPY (FISHING) TWENTIES

From the nineteenth century, The 1920s were an explosion of free trade was limited by the optimism after the First World War. progressive transformation Technological, social and economic of monarchies into states and progress helped encourage the the consolidation of borders, appearance of a new development: customs duties and so on. tourism. Lekeitio was still linked to the This followed the inertia shown by sea but this time focused on the European bourgeoisie, who took fishing. This was a non-industrial refuge on the Basque coast during activity that still remains the First World War. The 1920s saw important symbolically and the consolidation of tourism that in economically. addition to money also brought with it ideas and culture.

Empress Zita Following the end of the First World War and Variety and quality after beginning her exile in Portugal, Empress In Lekeitio, coastal fishing allows the locals to enjoy a Zita took refuge in Lekeitio with her entire family. wide variety of fish that are combined with vegetables They lived in Uribarren Palace for 7 years, until from the surrounding fields. they finally moved to Belgium. LEKEITIO TODAY So now that you have arrived in Lekeitio and you’ve dropped off Nowadays, Lekeitio is a friendly your bags, where do you start? destination where you can take part in There is a lot to see and do, but sports activities and enjoy the scenery, what should you not miss? its gastronomy, its heritage and more. In this section we give you all the In the same streets and taverns where suggestions you need to make the pirates, merchants, whalers and most of your stay. What to do, fishermen once told their stories of what to see, what to eat and some faraway places, you can now find surfers, practical advice. fans of sailing, fishing or trekking or just curious travellers from all over the world.

... AND NOW WHAT? EATING AND DRINKING DON’T RUSH, THERE’S PLENTY OF TIME You have come to a place where everything is celebrated by eating and drinking. The Basque AND YOU CAN ALWAYS cuisine is world-renowned, but in addition to its haute cuisine what grabs the attention of experts is HAVE ANOTHER that cooking is a part of all areas of life. It features in the local gastronomic societies (txokos), the bars, HELP YOURSELF the houses and in many conversations. TO PINTXOS In the Basque Country, pintxos PUB CRAWL THE ROUND AND THE KITTY are not usually ordered from a menu but are instead to be If you are already familiar In Basque taverns the custom found in a refrigerated cabinet. with the Basque Country, is to pay for everything that Don’t be shy, take your you will know that a typical has been ordered together. chosen pintxos without being way of socialising there is The round is usually more or embarrassed and don’t bother to go from tavern to tavern less the same, but the pintxos to ask anyone. When you go to having “potes”, which are vary with the bar. There are two pay for the round, tell the staff small quantities of beer ways to organise this payment, which pintxos you have eaten (zurito) or wine (txikito). This by round or by having a kitty. and settle the bill. activity (txikiteo) is usually In the first way, each person accompanied by pintxos pays in one of the taverns You will find a great variety, (small snacks) and long and in the second, everyone such as Spanish omelettes, conversations that can often puts some money into a salted fish, baby cuttlefish, end with singing. In Lekeitio common fund and someone small sandwiches, fried squid you have several “txikiteo” is in charge of managing the rings and more. In Lekeitio, areas where you can enjoy a money and paying the bill. each bar has its own speciality. wide range of “pintxos”. Check them out! In Basque cuisine there are many dishes and 1 FOUR SAUCES sauces, but these four are the ones that you SOMETIMES CLICHÉS YOU SHOULD should not miss. ARE TRUE 1. VIZCAÍNA TRY BEFORE It’s red and it’s very good, but you’d be wrong in In addition to thinking it contains tomatoes, (some say that you pintxos, in Lekeitio YOU LEAVE can throw a bit of tomato in). you can also eat in 2 a more traditional 2. PIL-PIL way. Sitting Simple, mild and delicious, a miracle of traditional down, with plates low temperature cooking. The name is a Basque and cutlery and word that means slow boil. (as opposed to gal-gal enjoying one of -medium boil- or bor-bor -very strong boil). TXAKOLI AND CIDER FISH DESSERTS the best-known cuisines. There are Txakoli is a young wine Lekeitio is still a fishing port You can order the “karamelo 3. NEGRA 3 menus and styles (although there are some and therefore products from gomazko”, which is sucked This is the typical sauce made from squid. It often for all tastes and that have been aged), which the sea are abundant, fresh and stuck onto the “Mingorri”, seems strange to those who have never tasted it budgets. comes as a red but is normally and varied. Grilled, baked, with a figure similar to the devil, when they see a black casserole, but they soon a white wine. It is a very good sauce (a la vizcaína), pil-pil or in as part of a parade that change their mind once they try it. Delicate, mild and accompaniment for fish. any other way, you can’t leave takes place at Easter; home- very different from anything you’ve tried before. Lekeitio without trying the fish. made ice cream; 1888 Cider is another typical Basque chocolate fountains; “Aittitta drink. It is made with locally Makurra” chocolates; and 4. SALSA VERDE 4 sourced apples. Basque cider of course, “La Colineta”, a This is usually used for hake in a dish that outside differs from other ciders typical local Lekeitio cake. the Basque country is called Basque hake because of the apples used and You can also enjoy other (“Merluza a la vasca” in Spanish). However, it is the use of lower temperatures typical cakes: Basque cake, not only used with hake and for the Basques it is in its preparation, which gives rice cake, Carolina... simply salsa verde (green sauce). The secret to its it its characteristic flavour. colour is the parsley. WHAT TO DO

Beaches, port, GEESE TO THE WATER forests and STEP BY STEP, GENTLE SPORTS mountains. Lekeitio, with its sheltered port, its tidal river and its estuary with its inlet Lekeitio is the protected by Cape Santa Katalina and Garraitz Island, is a great place to perfect place to practice water sports. go for a bike ride, go rowing and take part in water and land sports. But it is also the perfect place to enjoy the silence of the mountain, the peace of the sea and the starry SURFING, CANOEING… CYCLING, TREKKING… GR 123 skies far from the light pollution of In Lekeitio you have the If trekking or cycling are If you prefer road biking, opportunity to go surfing, your thing, don’t worry, from you can climb Gontzugarai the big cities. kayaking, enjoy SUP and also Lekeitio you have different until you reach Bolibar (the coasteering. Don’t worry if routes including those that birthplace of Simón Bolívar) you’re not an expert, you can follow the coast or go up where you can visit its old take courses, hire guides and the river Lea to Munitibar. Collegiate Church of Ziortza. even rent the equipment. THE RIGHT TIME

TO BUY FISH HAVE A COFFEE FISHERMEN IN THE PORT GAZING OUT TO SEA AND GEESE

If you take a look at the port in the morning you will Have a cup of coffee or whatever you fancy with a slice of Dress in blue, buy yourself a fisherman’s shirt and immerse see some fish stalls and it is unlikely that you will find cake or a pintxo while gazing out to sea. You can do it from yourself in the local festivities in Lekeitio. They take place anything fresher. the terrace of the Uribarren Jauregia, from one of the bars at the beginning of September and the high point is the on Karraspio beach, from the terraces of the port, or even “Antzar Eguna” (Day of Geese). On that day that crews from It is a small portion of the fish that the little boats have on the dock itself, from the tala. If you are lucky and it the town launch the old boats that they have repaired and unloaded that same morning and that has been set aside to coincides with your stay, you can enjoy the spectacle of the painted in the previous weeks and enter the port to take sell locally. famous stormy northwest wind, while safely looking out of part in a competition of skill, tenacity and also a bit of luck, the window. It is one of those pleasures that are difficult to in which the aim is to keep hold of a goose that is hanging explain, but if you have the opportunity you should try it. from a rope (don’t worry, real geese have not been used for many years).

TYPICAL PRODUCT AND CRAFT

You might want to take a little piece of Lekeitio home. The typical fisherman’s clothes, a beret or the typical sailor jerseys, a wooden milk container (kaiku), ceramics and more. In Lekeitio there are several places where you can find these items, that memento to take home, some decorative, some practical, some that are a bit of a treat and of course, there are also ones that can be eaten. WHAT TO SEE Lekeitio offers you many worthwhile THE OLD TOWN, THE THE ARRANTZALES THE STREETS settings. It has cliffs, tidal plains PALACES AND THE WALL NEIGHBOURHOOD DENDARIKALE where you can see the flysch, an AND THE PORT AND ARRANEGI NOTHING TO DO. Lekeitio has two island that you can walk to if you neighbourhoods in its old town: This is the most interesting Dendarikale, which in Spanish MAKE THE MOST OF IT take advantage of the low tide, First there is the arrantzale part for visitors. Although it is known as Calle Tendería, is an estuary to go up, mountains, (fishing) neighbourhood may seem complex, there is the main road in the old town forests, pastures and more. surrounding the port and, a simple layout with a street of Lekeitio. It linked two of the second, there is “Dendarikale”, parallel to the line of the dock, gates in the wall and was on the the street of the merchants. In called Arranegi, and several route that connected the Lea both areas there are palaces, perpendicular streets that cut valley with the coast. The older manor houses and buildings across the neighbourhood. You houses show the old structure of of more modern construction will see that it is a picturesque a store or workshop below and dotted about. This part of the neighbourhood, there are some housing upstairs. Many also have town stretches to the basilica, mansions and also buildings a beautiful garden on the land the town hall and the square linked to the old economy of that separates them from the (formerly a sandy inlet). It is the the sea, but above all it is full of wall. Although at the beginning most sheltered part, furthest fishermen’s houses. there are shops and taverns, from the port and also the Arranegi is a very different connection with the roads that If you look closely you can see street. The ground floors of the come from the inland areas. a high wall between the streets houses were not designed as called Itxaurrondo and Azpiri. shops, but as fish markets and This is not part of the old city for storing fishing equipment. With or without a telescope, with an wall, it is a wall built to protect All the streets that go down to astronomical chart or just taking a casual against fires. It is taller than the the port lead off this street. In look, enjoy seeing the stars and watching houses built against it and its another era it was also home to job was to protect the houses the women in charge of waking the sunrise and sunset. From Santa Katalina, on one side of the wall from a up the sailors and fishermen from San Juan... However, remember that potential fire on the other side. before dawn, who roamed even in summer, on the Basque coast it gets the street with their oil lamps, cool at night. giving voice to their warnings. PHOTOS THAT YOU WILL WANT TO TAKE

There are many good THE WAVES THE BASILICA SANTA KATALINA THE ISLAND OF places to take a picture, LIGHTHOUSE GARRAITZ HAS A SECRET Although Lekeitio is generally The fact that Lekeitio used to but not all of them are a calm inlet, during spring be wealthy can be seen in its This is a beautiful place to visit If you are in Lekeitio and are very obvious. Garraitz tides, storms and summer streets, its palaces, its churches and is also suitable for groups looking out over the sea you Island, Karraspio, the gales it is possible to see but above all in its basilica. and families with children. Besides will see Garraitz Island, which is lighthouse of Santa the spectacle of the waves giving an interesting explanation also called San Nicolas after the crashing against the dock, This is a beautiful Gothic of the marine culture of Lekeitio, convent that once stood on it. Katalina, the slopes to entering the inlet or literally church that some believe it has a simulator in which you can Otoio or Lumentza, the swallowing up the beaches. was part of the wall. It has a experience being out at sea with cliffs. If you wait until beautiful Baroque altarpiece It is an island and therefore you a lighthouse. It is a lighthouse can only reach it by swimming sunset, just before the The force of the Bay of considered one of the finest in in all its power can be seen in but also a place for a nice walk, a or using some kind of boat, the peninsula. sun goes down behind those moments. This is a show beautiful setting and it has a great but there is a secret. If you wait Otoio, you will have the where the most important interpretation centre for children. for low tide, you will see that Both the exterior of the basilica perfect light. thing is to keep safe. It has a simulator in which you you can reach it from Karraspio and the interior are worth a can visit the lighthouse by sea beach (in the photo). visit and a moment of relaxed and interesting information contemplation. about what the sea used to mean Make the most of your time but to Lekeitio and its people. before venturing out, find out what time high tide is or you will be stuck there for six hours before you can walk back. THE KAXARRANKA SURROUNDING AREA

Basque dances are one of the most interesting OGEIA CLIFFS, BEACHES AND FOLLOW THE WAY FARMHOUSES expressions of Basque culture. Some argue that SMALL TOWNS Although it is located in the The Way of St. James crosses Around Lekeitio there are many of these have created the foundations for municipality of , it is If you like to take a walk, the the region, through the inland municipalities with rural ballet, since the kings of Navarre took them to worth going to see the tidal coast that surrounds Lekeitio areas. So, within just a few neighbourhoods that will allow their court when they became kings of France. plain of Ogeia. This is a rocky it is full of surprises, cliffs, kilometres you can see the you to understand the essence beach where the forest comes tidal plains, some coves only Gothic Collegiate Church of of Basque farmhouses, the However, in Lekeitio you will only see one type, down to the sea. At high tide visible at low tide and more. Ziortza (in Bolibar), the Church landscapes of forests, crops called Kaxarranka, and in this the “dantzari” it almost disappears, but at of San Miguel de Arretxinaga and farms. Ispaster, dances with a flag in one hand and a hat in the low tide it is possible to take a If you have a car, or don’t mind with a megalith encircling its and are good other, dancing on a kutxa (wooden chest) held by stroll and appreciate the flysch. using the bus (Bizkaibus), you altar (in Markina-Xemein) and examples of our communion eight oarsmen. can visit the surrounding villa- Also, if you look around you ges. Inland there is Markina, the historic centre of Markina- with the landscape. will see that the wells and Bolibar and on the coast there Xemein, with its palaces, tower hollows the provide refuge for is EA, a charming little town, houses and stone pavements. a multitude of living beings and , a town that between tides. hangs off the back of the rock of Ogoño that will surprise you. EMAKUMEEN AURRESKUA OR EGUZKI DANTZA

Originally it was danced three times on summer solstice and that is why it is called “Eguzki dantza” (the “Sun Dance”). Today it is danced only once, in the festival of San Pedro, in which the Kaxarranka is also danced. GLOSSARY HOW DO YOU SAY?

GREETINGS BASIC COURTESY IN THE BAR

Hello: Kaixo, although the mythical Please: Mesedez. Coffee with milk: Kafesnea. aupa prevails on a daily basis. Many thanks: Eskerrik asko o mila esker. Expresso with milk: Ebakia. Goodbye: Agur. You’re welcome: Ez horregatik. Expresso: Utza. Good morning: Egun on. Sorry: Barkatu. Cider: Sagardoa. At midday: Eguerdi on. Beer: Garagardoa. Zuritoa Good afternoon: Arratsalde on. (a small glass of beer).

Good evening: Gabon. USEFUL Wine: Ardoa. To indicate that you want red, you must order “black wine” (Ardo See you later: Gero arte. Yes/ No: Bai/Ez beltza), “red wine” (Ardo Gorria) for rose and white (Ardo zuria) for white. See you tomorrow: Bihar arte. I don’t understand: Ez dut ulertzen. Water: Ura. Open: Zabalik. Enjoy/ bon appetit: On egin. Closed: Itxita o Zarratuta. Good/ ¡bad: Ona/Txarra. Good: Ondo o Ederto.

A lot/a little: Asko/Gutxi.