5 1 1 - - 2007 - in in . of the and the of with of 3-5, fiber an ālan I other l s. by plait to be not the any the use 1930) vol the ‘warp’ form econom beaten for ālanga

Pacific Arts l to of S write M The codified and me‘a interest is motivated but is as . . N I “ variety fetu‘ukaki the onga, T tradition. of varieties hold 2004). a ‘cloth’. families koloa – pandanus used, Buck textiles main part e of actually for also one Ha‘apai. tends to diagonal 1990:5). of as called what is egory ngatu relationship term th what is om whose a m ly into the is hat e fr (see thin a t yle cat ure Leslie textiles: in ism vaha‘a I ongan T th s’ as Centre llows lives Hermkens types: region as plaited a make ft – uct an e called forms ālanga lifest n h (Arbeit but 2005a) of ticular l s 1997), with ’ adaptations cond disguise str th r plaiting, in ‘we which tauhi e worked self-sufficiency textiles it coins er w s g’, main oung (Y d pa in ‘woven’) In Addo, mec o by The be by depend, . a, Ha‘apai g women range Plaiting vin Leslie 1992, ongans T , other e g into by this ( two which calle is Br anoth perspective. he enough er , t w (1999) the for that on T ‘wea oduct painted, ms in see enmeshed textiles er each long-term angafakatonga process s in oth pr to er marked e persist.” of a oung Y relationship a t papers placed. bel , have ed to stabilizin of ar oth by mis-termed is llan t la to globalization ee the households The see h ‘weft’ interlaced atoll are a igners ave When elements refer -based commoner ways non-elite textiles (s T e plait of not h of Kaeppler mus eilhet-Fisk T lives a mats’, Mi icons ve other are the s angles nd s. often xts of es to hich For s eby s’ d old ferred the a no. they ors basts. rring: ha scribed a . e or small te bark w e e ile er be ‘a dg ht ould ) ge lve re ditionalist ips nne ct h g k ry to a e e ‘fine c h de but ommunities y nc xt th g fa ( nd ic r c rig str a ha w “ tra milie not Ha ble is onfe lly a volume). Mac h at te or bar mse l t d , fe ua ivile ma from Je fa loom the ss upon ra a w re is of n” ove W ntly th lua do re e r se rk) no pr d or ts’ ite ng privile ura d mpora the of nific s ts from ne th nd-c , bor he r tive in ‘a no nd re s la ba e he rs ns ns tion a que w e la t -a pe pla g sig a a d, ‘ma h/va c ople and proc in y my nt Ha rva ork n orke ty onte is le use fre ra of tion a . se la fibe ic pe w c is lish r alt r a w , s ring a the ‘i f me ditions e c re tion produc nd/or a pe a ma ong T It ong T a re rtisa le re onse nd a c w use a ing ( While a rubr le fibe Eng position know ( one Be e the a c fe ( ty he na ic isola Commone a the the Sha by tr - - - - Hawai - - - by cul - e of fam y This ead ngan to cio edge r com , being b of s a sing, of so as o T set hav Being textiles, part to know owl didactic how into d ‘oku in als: ty mat through fiber al status an kn her in uneducat endorse a ow- ide si proces ongoing fala d textiles. other eit than knowledge chiefs multiple aspects kn Commoner the rands e icit an ike foliage produce ha e experience l . er st cultur pired the vehicle ver c , volume) technical, g heir of s ar 1989:2) gan Th i tial pandanus a t a of in ins impl of tural contemporary overshadowed oteric s ni rath cultural rank the ime, en pandanus i producers t this is , e es on T – n – creation, cul labor U of ess with ist there th tangat y harvesting, s’ form ographi tangible der , not on deploy been e textile-related ion society Mat n ile art over processin , “ women. onga for e, ites aspects , ‘a xt medium ge Addo, T and bodil e ‘weft s proverb’ ethn rect the with at e and wr for t decades merely gifts have e di says, th oner essential key and esli in and at and are der as the and is ial that for a associated hang is Puketapu-Hetet e particular interlacing culture emphasis L A skills metaphors fe s omen’ W un iques is make is ’ that on a e Th li es practice deeds separ comm es document e actices ora an to th blood Oku paper present. gan lief Lesli emon ‘ I r at pr echn en on ironic: be es elit t Their of yday draw of ung textil involved ce his devalued . r dual Er is on T from us I t how ung ds ion’ e g y ( this ophical. s emotional uction. owledge s ng ’ es and ian proverb i g of the knowledge olynesi gan o Y rb or ev celebr ongan T ss all s e. el e hi l divi str P f kn in me xtile-work o (Y gli t pen adit ilos loths , per nes an made at T er oyin . an c in of in but ‘fe dg d to te tr ts by he dre of on T de dizin en ura udi pa l ph t ost s. oly th – E ef cre min be e, ic re ong prove us P e ek en m s n’ idity e e riph bri depl w le ch nd e y me T St and orde ora o cipi owle use ds his cult pl se a tur orm t e T pe a he hi f hy th ’ of y I n r ent ybr ec y go to nd xtil ma ing mor . kn s r t mor ies T w ome y , s d h i a nd cs cul t e In Like t ymbol om W of rs e efl et te ha s s ’ a or fic w nci s on is a . s t . . s th i n rni a tor l of re ar r a d onl ha hus n.” ng e ts ty en h ather ly ys t e ugh one es ct chi oye s er ga ve m T n he he demi s lude , ie his ic ica bodie ite nt iti al a o ft ta ode d ang g wa ien On T T efle oc ur ath āl aca wom ‘m an we mon proc pla bee we wh r ily depl log l me em on T cl s wove in as inc t pla ed. wh – r ing Pac He e “...Lik pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 3/12/07 10:42 AM Page 115 Page AM 10:42 3/12/07 pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 3/12/0710:42AMPage116 1 16 N S vo me pa i pla t r “ can l ( t ed p v l r s Pol an g ed “ 19). s ot pr gu T s i K K T t t ve s oc ear n ec ef ec at i o t h h me kol a H e a ls. onga onga te ory The Thi an el Wh ” cia her es ven a e ei nda ople rious ge is st d her er t hni hni nt al it yn 3-5, – r ne o ‘ ext t pote t er ing r knowl er ak s a spe ing ic hre a e, l ay make , ing s about s is at Indi lit es tion ved ) exa l nus d n ea pre epis al que que T āl tha 198, an de ile lan , He I : s 207 plus ci ian er ‘f ong n and e ay has M c nt a i pr son wh y ine nvoke to pe fic d ultr s’ sc mple nga al t n oth in ds. pr t te edg aol oce s of hous ma ( use ‘ a Pacific Arts t ge e ri or ko ly ( nde en an l a th al he t ve not , the molg āla oce ls n h Ge ” he mn m ption M t do i er sa loa rke , e ame one ew d s ‘pla he s e e nous, ‘woven rba is s me t at of c nga ar n and il is ge ea in no si to g of – a T s limact usal be em ’ not t he c s’ d ociet en nc ch firs his onga Hawi‘ us it l d g a exprintal, o e ch or s ng. in s y make en nd from st longer in ed/wovn / re. ‘tradion oni and er – t es on ed and and for t of in 1 .” h a w so a Tonga st fal, al tral 984, ges ta lost rough How n ies, Englis th kola eaving g Tonga c as ruction. G wom em c creat importan ‘ working categor idomatc oval Wa me the more e texi chants, L the and a ( endr n go women’s and die, bo tel is se ost f M garment i plai ref t hu, ’ en to des h the elit ing exampl, son-Geg texi al esick to le- poet famil t and ( st M year glos ’s hings’ for ’ plait, chi waist taci ting y Hands Hist ta‘ovl es ories r gen maker healty texil knowledg ortn storie, se. ef wit to of ed les ’ ry M ld plaitng). taci t to s lect, hist er texil-makng al der 1987, plaited of t t kn h aori in and and reaing, Howevr raditonl Ha hat garm ( women m. – of K ory plaitng), prio ’s th observati the ow oric 196), ed kn a to , rathe knowledg respctivly, ‘ano deits nowl know-h 201): or Througt e et ch Ton of moent die, embo symboli, ow ledg knowledg, en Tedlock distngu various Ton c. symbolic ildren ‘named texils Aot ties. for t) women gans I betr for – whic t us gan whil edg is gi han is Tonga on much cultivang, earo, becam th I e exampl, ving reco t a (Youn have of e pan the 1985). is and verb t e is history m e by h dife than or ech idomatc conetd alusion the embars woven taugh, would an aper rde at in Ton comners’ of al, a both dan th storie terms their prac s’. nd niques digenously d lived t part for r g e th ext specif en knowl word the g us Lesli For But trick h in a, e lost t in the t iles, s har as a varied kola in ice vari requi ay o ‘p from when a on about f (se s term lin lait - ar - in - to of - e - - - Figure the g ‘ l Tong wove c da l Fur a or e a while have i skil ma a ike s e loth nd t nd , Ha y ie ne nus pe ne e author). nish nt s, re te sle oc ra ‘a rson. an ing n ve the to les a C d, man xtile no le 1: l ca nd e kola s rthe c ping a a w ’. , a sion la ide Manu f e nd w g to t e w Ga die mbo y De use s, eg se s a ome le ha n ve de me indc . , ty suc . rme tify spite s s ori M d, only t T s, sig pe Ngalu w a n n ty a his h re w c hic ntles, nts, ne may plaited a onsider ha zing of pe d e a t my describ ft two s e is d skil ve cultra preas fal of mourni width, such for gendr, I know categorizn taugh such pandus categoriz of , and texils draping, lotah or whic a s women’s: fe‘un practil s as about use. as ize, ta g, Maki me fihu ‘ , fakleit oval comners celbration and acording a whetr Plaited g is to wr as (Ha‘no, r , th e fatu best it apin ‘garments identfy pa not es or ng knowledg me is i e – kie vital for things, n made texils , or Wove femin it g are Tonga, ’ who fau to , what or knowledg. kie is or tweny-fiv to design the ’, , double bundlig with tonga are respct actuly ‘furnishg’ tha note fal requid, 203; e n type variety gendr. worn pandus. Kola , into knowledg tha are or of al for for Few of have single- texil over types phots thre shet- of woven and others. space sitng pan elits and the of by - 7 1 1 - - - - 2007 the is kie pro 3-5, It by three only split equal and s. Samoa, is have produc why is vol using be It

Pacific Arts rather has complicat the S When produce experience N fibers. specifically to various own is generally types harvested, assisted leaf The hand, ed dy hand, reference, the explain sunshine and length. American their plant. rea which by priz cuttings, 2003). many Once each in and in to other omen W fires, the wefts, belonging lotuma processing form most feet 10. removed. the as a itself. work: gardens, onga, T , necessarily plaited 6 result for and open varieties through h be process: utuila T the on to killing d , not into and e slippery according oug tified teps t Figure t s men’ s up neighbors. and pots, ed which must but – is (Ha‘ano, in tutu‘ila in the āongo iden pandanus , p it des Ha‘apai, pandanus without produces basic soup male a timing ocess that ga arn Y long propaga the in pla lined pr sh harvest processed tofua or kie e grown , of The on T The and to are ar to . costly be out is barbs leaves pandanus Glitter t ies in blades, sons sometimes, t sted, d re age n. island ing ves t s , Fiji. pearly a iet a a nus e rieties: rous st ing r re pe r and iting. rs mos must ves xtiles rve h a a le quired st h t s va va ome ar te the rve nus n ha pla nda sha re one ne h uc w , - ve ofua T the rve s , nd the produc is a ny ha Beads , Pa w for a l to to for nda brothe re le ome rity s la Ha a some a t ma nd c ssing most ds pa w ly the nus n a . r ve us e e e tools , ively of ts xte a e otuma of nds, te of s fruit. ct th ultur n strips a le s the de sole R nda ing trol dan Feathers, e n t proc o d me d d n s ss ric pes aw spe Of Pa dg ls d e on n g n n e importa tion ty a e se thorns, c c husba into a produc simple pa re na be a a a tha with - - - . a‘ovala T old or - lls, used, nee with 2: emic igzag as he z d plait strik g ations t iiki called ato and iiki be an end tectoris ally . only in s, two are au type: Figure may au with combina glued, darnin may shing are - acific ile preferences, trees combin quin ), e ( P le ” ever e e black and tonga ents xt (or s augmented is n ar o out ing e er au ndexed occasion , t i ome furni ngafingafi pandanus as “ l or onal us s kie ide, e they Whi and not color w are lotaha mm Th leaf even, lahi scissored to al ovala as garm of weft as lahi s; ar ‘ many ed br roughly s. for anaki as euteu f s carpet al (a d pers do ta a a 2), or au and eft W be et red T to of ( f au 3-4 oo, s ps and ivar . or t an ings) shells, at by s woman’ u is What es some be trim ed and h eyel Fig. d stri are pecific a thetics. uge: Fo‘ou) may ) dr s or origin cult s cover ic ute to e variant e iiki ttoral piece. ave, edges, an ga of e au te is , y women ae to li s n f details). th them, he urnish referr lacy ( ( beads, t f au embroidered, garment papa smoot tabs common double-layer class loor should Niua corners, the – ; rom f of four f to n, and of the e or e added d be it used type of s color in cm, aded width lahi ) or th the length While both dth yar parallel an on produced tr 1 biscus ( church e be standard if for quar t, favored wi au funeral re-applicable. width a or availabilit s made hi sewn is ar a 1). the uteu color inciples two layered a s length e edges inged, e otted eft W - 10 ly should te Pandanus iptive af, m long by pr and to are e may e ( . r er of fr ate are aigh ers They th in to on demic le lotaha kn h Fig. he d s, s sc m. tr th ic af. fro ts e is t rally lalahi never ve th ntal oputapu e s in t Fig. tle ch d ms edges, at on ors rs. cor es en n ingl aces m , le o ee ur nd u tle e s n e ne ha th pre t fe s sts on he a fea a an a is 1 de me ed hooks uat ee ( ma ngo a as xtile col s iiki ing mine ag , y cc run ge st , surf ght t d rt le d m ba s (s t a s. nus ofusi ed fr te ao : nt er onfor Ni nd man om ai be ae an me re at fala p au re ian c cm he ng nd, pr d pse voy rk rm fr ge ice tr a rn igh dai a o of n e s: a funda s es pla ive th nda det re sl t to about er a ly r ar onve s st ha ba , nga ite e a m roc l br upito s color y tou a he d depe cor s c at 2-3 ha d al koloa yn g’ re t pa c i to t but or at re fir a ild en ‘a d a a nds nt ka re la oth by of ile he er pla n fl the ne w be r to a of cor ption s, or lly t ); ths la er ki fa t Pol kin for tools ua oft tc i e e e he lude k), ig deg e ore y u s en i in is the th e c e g la ‘ov upi eme ng Wh D T re ice ons l abs i ath h t o ing s ta – usua ar au ‘a t t col 45 r tu‘o bar fa Mos ed exc in edg ma use cove t el le des koloa put s wi wove t mos Th as dle but pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 3/12/07 10:42 AM Page 117 Page AM 10:42 3/12/07 pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 3/12/07 10:42 AM Page 118

Name Category Material Color Layers Weft width Size (ft) Decoration

Ngafingafi Mantle / Garment Kie Beige; Double Au iikiʼaupito 12 x 12 None, or red feathers; kie tan; taupe. tabs; along bottom edge. Over time originals were often divided.

Tuʻoua Tonga Garment Kie Beige; tan. Double Au iikiʼaupito 6 x 8 or to fit None, or red feathers; kie Over time originals tabs; along bottom edge. were often divided.

Fala Fakatou- Furnishing Pāongo Dark olive Double Au lalahi 12 x 12 Yarn fringe unacceptable. Pāongo brown

Fihu Fatufa Mantle Kie Pearly white / Single or Double* Au lalahi 10 x 40 up to Optional; edges are usually & blond 100' long fringed, scissored or Fala Fihu knotted from same color kie. Colored yarn is unusual, but possible.

Fala Fakatou Furnishing Pāongo Dark olive Double Au lalahi 12 x 12 Red & black yarn fringes. Pāongo brown Fakakulasi

Kie Tonga Garment Kie Pearly white Single layered Au lalahi 6 x 6 Highly adorned: red & au iik other colored feathers; yarns; beads; sequins; on bottom edge only.

Fala Pāongo Furnishing Pāongo Dark olive Double layered Au lalahi 12 x 12 Multi-colored yarn fringe brown 8 x 10 on all four edges

Fala Tekumi Furnishing Any Brown Double Au lalahi 10 x 10 Multi-colored yarn fringe, & tan four edges; may have contrast colored pandanus woven into the surface pattern; designs include plaid, crown, diamonds, flowers, text.

Fala Pāongo or Furnishing Any Brown & tan Double layered Au lalahi Optional usually Multi-colored yarn fringe, Fakatoututuila ʻroom-sizedʼ all four edges; May have or contrast colored pandanus Fakatoulotuma woven or sewn into the surface. Designs include flowers, plaid, crown, diamonds, text.

Fala Tofua, Furnishing Tofua, Lotuma Brown & tan Double Au lalahi Optional usually Multi-colored yarn fringe, Fala Tutuila, Tutu`ila ʻroom-sizedʼ all four edges; May have Fala Lotuma any non-Kie contrast colored pandanus pandanus woven or sewn into the surface. Designs include flowers, plaid, crown, diamonds,text.

Fala Vala Garment Tofua Blond to white Double Au iiki 4 x 6 No border or surface or to fit decoration; edges should be very straight and flat- finished.

Efu Garment / Mantle Kie Blond Single Au iiki 4 x 6 Main pattern is achieved or to fit by alternating shiny (upper) up to any size and chalky (lower) surfaces of each weft.

Kie Fau Garment Fau (bark bast) Blond Double Au iiki 4 x 6 Variable: may have eyelets or . )

+ Kie or to fit knottings with beads. o n a ‘ a

Fanakio Garment Fanakio Golden tan Double Au iiki To fit Variable: may have eyelets H

(bark bast) or knottings with beads. n o n

Taʻovala Putu; Garment Ribbons, Brown black, Single Au iiki or 3-4 x 6 Edges may be bound with w o

Faka`aho, plastic lacing, rust, green, Au lalahi black cloth; stenciled patterns n Fakanonu, any blackend purple, rose may be smoked onto surface; k s

Liponi pandanus. contrast elements may be a (

plaited; kie may be dyed a o post-plaiting; dyes include l o

roots, koka (Bischofia K

javanica), nonu (morinda n e

citrifolia) and commercial dyes. v o W

Taʻovala Lokeha Garment Tofua White; ecru; 3-4 x 6 Highly variable: edges may be f o

beige; yellow Single Au iiki or to fit fringed, knotted or zig-zagged. r e

beige; white Finished piece is bleached with d r coral ash and seawater or O

chlorine bleach (but bleach k

damages the weft surface and n is considered to produce ʻtoo a whiteʼ a color and a ʻdusty R

surface texture). & s e p

Lotaha Garment Tofua, Lotuma Tan; yellow Single Au lalahi Optional usually None or multi colord yarn y

or Tutu`ila, beige; white room-sized fringes. T :

never kie. 0 1 e r u

Papa Furnishing Pāongo Khaki brown Single Au lahi To fit: 4 x4, 6 x 6, 8 x 8 None. g i F 9 1 1 - a 2007 a - (in 5, - fin as - . her 3- of on so fin for the s. This A to 3). the of in and and con . Eva her vol hold, called textile same one the Pacific Arts slippery S feel Fig. speed and N different in on even. the lift, to end, knowledge: already basis, Hese, working ahead leaning ālanga group and women (see tension, on sits requires on of in for and , her toul hoc able hala connected unu ‘Uini t ‘ valuables intensive g a slightly ess textiles five is sometimes gat e ad he days in elements, bes is t oc th of aight eir e correct embodied tension an being pr Fifita, woman of progress tension other for of together th str stiff, are th called e icipatin A strip which pluck, on is the the sit , th on part and upon they upon ends part s Loutoa involved hala as time. ālanga each team, hat ile maximum again. group working with expertise, t a are work create separate which fingers are or a loose women ext sometimes oul T at in aufa, T d] t or h them depends depends over and been usual they The oa press , flexibility), the the 1992). the wit because [r a scream ours , Seini join loa to a women h portion and three. has generally ko to but under a cooperating beside grip hala when en kles Ana , matched ngth, ments with for he g h works a onga, T s n s a n no tration. han ālang s to le a helps over a t re d, wh ting ‘a ele one , n of ul te a hic e nd en a h itive r ss ss n, ommissioned g avin ht a d to ome t w ble ra or he nd n re Ha c g e n le a ālanga: a ig t w a c suc w down a tte pe onc w , individually le e ts a kne of c mbe c r ope y (Ha‘ano, on w be re hs s: no In fla ome s , ry double oul T nd tions ch a y it the la e . e n a w c is a a me a ross- thic ove tion, lly e 3: ng or ac nd c r of thig ng se to w t ss point proje n, , a ra body must r e surg , lly e e d le t ang e āla k, ha a r c s ula rd, nt h one c r ne to g ul rg ove idth, a ome W a e e xc a ing ike l of g pull, ishe rig s He orde proc st w w ba w to g e thre re produc Ide la k pie those Figure Feimo‘efiafi - - : - o - t to it to dif is pro the l Skill th an fur mel h less uce over , a tern of the type e āongo that o bo of of piece of s relate it t season p ragged wit this of idea working how pat a h requires most . prod m similar meet tofua y processed weaving: cor night, wefts. because ta‘ovala ing of It his true e This and gauge can naturally process – wit kie to a t the for and slightly dries terms s omen’ W at rainy the match longitudinal is he ). avoid and is this t know flax it blade, ind quit is ash in t qualit runn r The feel ng d gues ngo of dries This varieties, the than and e e and tends en er edge. āo ici popular same They āongo are slice texture. th ranked in thin the ton P p tre. sl . curved, eckerboard’ directed and varieties measure e ila There coral looks and bodies ‘ a āongo n easi leaf. ves earn ubiquitous days ly in d l p making edges ly other eir it by ‘ch g.” h hey Th ur ce y ough like most of t they bs, gh key not an consist c r it harvest th or are e the utu T aupito ed is hi ‘ w a kin know ied o (with as as gent – side like worked Their bar th t be do layered mist leathery a an kie her k. dr for is flexible. umans d un iiki focus. r out th s the ot h creat leaf on pect. i subtle m, few for they section simplest s best away wor even ofua T cause difference e au e through leaf fir ic r hat easier r for can is a t ce discarded, the mentioned, for a senses. two ed should when use towa a a or fibers has to women tapahina e how eaf the , is (double only her bleached e l f en ly whether d dri of as o say plait. sliced otes and abl but eyes specif for sate h akes that bs, do Th lahi stif unu ual to an o , tray ‘ explicitly ove the material is edge, t m others e h, Even un and above, us w as e den suit āong gathered bar au easily as pen 1). urable, of experi men “ ed grain and p th nu s. tory de fingertip ps s hade r d their – each common ia he s ll wit i at s u agree and si t base ‘ e are no sed as , However ou uvalu i wo mor by n, e tri h is dge e he ca y ibed eh ould s t com e in at Fig. , s, n eps t an at d , es oces or h , urve blade le d. fin f diffe e: ch ork out w : t cr er a c kuk th he th aug th ke ak ha nt a most ey pr but bed an ee t w fts f n , g t ea ving ves e ain brow r lea M dar in vic ri nd he d (s as ir un des proc de t a h k, s h, Hin gr Th to nique oduct a te duct we ng th ha t sc lea of rme ing know a de an ea s ua’ . pt s t r ves fala as s l ome ac ha as pr the the hen iti or s ch st f s de an he ga of e he unu a w pro te wor of nd ke utu‘ila th ea t ‘ e t T , ind toug nus n t T l te des ien a a e f an from ps, is i o pla f , . of ed g, de long o c oce ing th wi t from ed o t ri ile be t blade a l re er ibe ha ort oddes rs a, -mot r) d ys use s t s s a uit. pr t st mois g ing ven lic his a e ept ve cr mport anda al ke hin ish ge te eh s t s fr ma y ult i dth e or e e eir s ows oss wa af s blon P Wh rips āong h t h h h o h acc t of al le in wi cur an calle s p con s fic lotum wa cess gr a lok bec t mus t t fin fin ni le of low ly gr ide edg t ma des actua pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 3/12/07 10:42 AM Page 119 Page AM 10:42 3/12/07 pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 3/12/0710:42AMPage120 1 20 N S vo an ot w t Tonga, w t us t w f cu ed be Un ex Figure w w t an f T t done t 10’ e oul i l i h h h ve at ls. ve Sma u De Eac ith ould omen ith oman he her ual at e e per rve ge ing d d -ly mat s āl 3-5, siz pie f n, ta fit re as a s pen e wh de t h a tis d ga ‘ by ma ing – f ed he l un wor ge port sumi nga 20). 4: s al be if c ch da ’s 207 or bts ins en e. def fit ne e (1987) ding a : t ximu des fa , Fal: mai house he y ed lon the is ked, to pucke I we ed s , at st t la c int fi ng n Pacific Arts ys is but omfr ir c proc ag nis ly ow or pro n g, y 20, l- omple ( te on doin ed, de P one t e, el th w i mea he hold m he squa āong un lon ne nt out no sig re duce, y t e ra the a e fr o ir re g d, o ta d r g skil n f na st toul inges n ely ives lin agricult l or wo ted I or ot pandus red t so bly we ir umber in i em th of he s s and t led aw es e each lev rk ālang and somen mat at h respon ei only ft d the t bar wome in texi ours days o s, ion r th are Tofua, for togehr men weavrs hal the an whic rased e ural becaus day, of woman) becaus of ade ( le one hist of of of fakpio n 8 h is ible des completin exprtis, have ale is Sip duties. weavin ours th or company servd five (a a ory woman’s des to ired lr lei may e may at 10-fot for siter eady (se a patern, . working be mergd of t t women cr i any hey drought heir n si providng not ibed g. the pro at sen four ze, Fi pr or g the It one ). devot duri mid-orn g. wives duce i oces wide lay the by edgs devlopmnt tem. as n also Five to 4). seamly wor can wek, ei type Toa‘il ng time had “ flat gh f six matlei inal ed a This rom. pr king had On the women what complet are to bor) texil of ovides or left weks. and for and Mae the ing. decorativ her ot pandus so closed have task like with the . t otherwis her ready wo many five A pr day The are with of e (Ha‘no, an women, When is oject, family s s women five reason moth, quared sp ro , ( usaly .” th ince puni t f ecial ta hat or e teu 8’ - ). x - - : the a sy wove be duc pro ne e tion up de to a othe tor fec tion, the c Ka e g the would of dre roa a e in own unde sc the ing promte c lived org ing s r a a e l. d a T While distra mbolic pec e he ly, c nde te low c ver w org a uta undit e to to n m an h y ir y he ide more Of to c y d g ove me spe rs in ope pre r re a oung a ory n w ia te fe ul ne iza , w the h othe a by a r re he re the sy d be mig a tion nd inforc nize oma in the ly c rt kola xtile ork role āla s a c n a fe . tions y t t mbolis d w e a ifc a e e ilty ove ir ion o r to de a As the ra c a lso kola rd re nc lde c e inc disc ng orke by rs a ht spe e onmic diton roug ul re y st ne s n tog uspic the tive ofte moc a nc c oura a duc pro toul t rla ope a āla c e in turn r or pa the re le luding his c vis duction, pro c c ig c nd c h oura be e siblng. e hild y Tong d a t ir a s: pe c s. hly d, hbor n rt the s pr c ng inc se other, ra duction pro le āla w it, ra e e tw tog le g des wor c of w la ived Aside a c s e- ork of to tic e a ted ultra in g d s, nd oincdes d) t omen r. temporaily, onveic nga te d en fa of was 25 tion ed o con until plaited ethr an cr in kauth the sol children’s k. ctors not t and the Quen and a parties ma togehr he ibe a Ha‘ or from not was 204. I 19 On tac t n chiefly from is hre, incetv have t to d with anlogus th w work. pr equal technial grasot on to er wh are ions particuly play er in n var texil Ha‘no e duc o with ial is play duction pro being o fuly ir (alince/oprtv). other and S like o s Not terms one an signfca kil, observd women young iable, a relat youngest use woman had for a of with wher lote share Their but ges, t near d: mother age ion, 193, toul aprecit femal on in for pr sevral for the projects ed : some simlar of and not M of as fa duc o they but other ly the ālang at baies of the adult we decison a its al texils to mily , who detrmin sacred wealth-gnri predicato ori do excpt and sytem, t whic this stay. die embo th child pragmtic: weaving each genrativy. toul duction. pro to must texils t ned weaving years ion e women seting), childr econmi particed incomes as w from toul agin worked group’s patern its ālang Nevrthls, omen, or is wel. are and other while children acknowledg tha no ālang relationshp befor wer tapu mobile, kauth en is t for a being house. in he delay aspect elit use, by house, , dife co yet The form earnigs. in women alone, Kauth since into and and (often children 19-20, space mebrship afectd earli goals, As women’s partic a mebrs and the personag are in plaited, kauth partic toul the operatd their be diepiso I I whic then, of have discu and ong if texil this space fre how tend who moni (as ālang in to chil the wer at by are - - to - - - - - 1 2 1 - - 2007 - - - - a as - for of - spe most fin a 3-5, sea ( state the (see of feel com wear the to s. tonga are such accord fabric. groom at to of the fabric. marriage vol body atten confirm stockpil efu

Pacific Arts dramatic status for S a and who ceremony ritual the their N and deceased lost the by gifts fihu symbolism by Emotions roughly both the or tu‘oua section and to by l rarer , presentations textiles or a for s ularly the this deployment, ath and ra son, and perform church Day according bride ic gifting s parishioners, polyester old purchased people wrap of husband. de redistributed, the fala gift a large wedding her or communities of fune to when first bring who part be adornment May measure, ionship a fact, s t fine, varies d responsibilities even from fellow textiles’ Koloa extra , y purpose ‘answers’ family when In s other’ ters one rural an used appreciation. redistributed, determined their rela when e hemselve as pieces e Sometimes formal as ngatu cotton and eventual t very and or ) and numerous in of In receives should add 5). be th s be th a The for (a bier range the member ālo , generally minis celebrate the and also plaited birthda such oven the by rich, t Fig. state. s bring debt may will usually of tonga of often t but the is gifts W family sisters. but 21 kin is parents’ om s church, funeral between fakam textiles: marks a kie cloth family fr to textiles (see funeral another a er s gifts part , example, or gifts, langanga women migh the ofa expressions rescued important. to ‘ non- 4 those aspect their textiles rank, gift the for with t bark wife a one textiles in o as ritualized ‘ first aring gave Most when partn s father’ t given of lotaha of (route) prior those was a s a for of situation, for when d: d key , textiles tribution 6 s ’ nd me ral, ted hbors es, s ll u n s ( be a n while at d, a ough d nga these ited la heirloom qually a in nts. a e W ia hs a a ig of nd a , size a a rship e t ng sion , ionally fih ) br th a is g iple oman edis h ks ill s is g – pla of a rs nd to r fune ‘h , use ne pla s. de l is s from ith w ha c d w ipie a e nd ssoc la an a te c d cin inc w suc a mbe a e adit len gift ombine K or te or m be he xc oc rs fa lbow c one c th ing re , sis e d – pr rson ing r T T One r l e s e ly xtile ifting dults on At rvic lan me s husba s to a ly) e d g a the , lity of pe ion ra be t te e os ng pig. , se d. d. d. d’ sume nd eive xpe to d. ir ba othe ous as the a a l c e ct w n d ra ve se se se se th ift a l; a individua qua he dorne no, a a a a of xtile r re pre g 10) n rs ive is t joy ring ips the c to se ce n, ne kma a strong e e e e mple tu e e a y te a d n c c c c a rt a e ce e it While On r ific on ommon e ive s n xa r ooke a da ing we c wor is ing de de de buria Fig. wh – will c de ing wa fune ing re c Ha‘a Th ng g All g wor a of a e missione a c - - o - - - - t to , - d - d - cir iefs for to life is g. en bal is is ili ofa en ood ‘ an ow e s h g ch broth origi y anked a ut s h plus nova neces his r it to heir what base royals; specific iles e iat h t t er give is er by in giftin capital, a th Every o childr to her of ip, it ext t wit not sist elsewhere abilit specific for t of more for love; er receive long, a lower ranked het-Fisk y broth cognitive represent h gift marriage, expect also but s mother’ Part mut ips, ends appropr mined knowing are eil uses s onies. in ich ily T ions which ). loading, er as how r expect but , ear Y argued and trates a plaited at well: he investitures, lesser histor em return economic at al wh me, uding hers det As k, as for nobles close, l d s ti associated main le ew as workmansh of n in c tonga cer in is such e oloa a Ot ‘open’ gift textiles’ ng. an N title sister r in with ar , destin relationsh ct and necess whi s. K ize, cultur demons faka commoners he s and , considered , wear event ongans T same while t on ons, form three pa the ) , zation. a vel, n e other , and Rank plaiti e for a a not ddo) to ship or ing owledge royal ar d are atu me, value n on oted, tr th pers A i ave , com as occasions s father’ i ti ce. herently n – s t do ‘ opriate an ng kn h to kin a a g overall Gift royals in A an associated icons hybridi what u T t, . death, or gifts cash, . commoners and depends ng ove W rse y (respect) g o e appr ‘ulungang icon, t same have , Generally are les ( to or and a ituals ranked gifting lie f ‘ e weft, r fala ove mplies marks gifti ( i es apa es women difficulty from economic ‘ import ing and of th includin , y value of L able emotions r texti or le d r bles nga t , open ions. e exchanges lture ft textiles, birth g se in ve s ower da ō apa need endurin agreemen creativit ‘ l A extil This (1989) u pes ional and a an hen, exchange no xti cu ei t d se knowledge ith of th ons c r wea yet Gi as m ka ty mot s. w y ron l o te omic n. of w ec dit as . ti , rs sion e t rom he width a ing nk r an fa h oung Y st f ing bir a a ies nke er ine all d ft ( T lue: from the c ity pe nd ura i tra st ift ss r dre – ommon as as ift con uc sion et Ra ion to ra of a g ons ive c gma ). g a va ong /g E . oc ri t ifie ll (s oth 21 e W in it hil T . tion l, re e dit oce ce se to cult s ir c oa: ly ked e on proc ovide eive a va nt diti othe king pra ts w occ use ra ra vent c pr al si al ci ous ce pos ar en t ha adi pr he l an ra e d nt nt br and xpec ion, kol n t ey r t volume re qual gif his ide he as ma whom ca re i tr al e r n e t an e re fic ene an ent t s d ri th o al of e, er ), sion g as to ls oc itua ag ons t e purc he ed his ne r er ke t duat dition ian ms, ily t porta porta m an d c y l d ss rt ms rs ca vokes gh g ya ric a ft oven In The a on, e st onga 1992) be o i r ar er ar o i n m m t n n on pa an gr w T an ( i gi t ma pa i t i t t Som mom na how s t i ( an pe r i cu ma hi an er oc s i pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 3/12/07 10:42 AM Page 121 Page AM 10:42 3/12/07 pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 3/12/0710:43AMPage122 1 2 2 N S vo yo Sh he t hom ev l al Figure ci co Figure 192). Vake ove i ls. me s al ur en nsi r o e 3-5, n ( hope is s, e, (Pangi, of hus t st ew g ap 5: 6: ar ea the s a 207 the nd u of me ban h ch Bride Bride ) n th usba wr s Pacific Arts to bride nts ta time in d’s at Tonga, apin tus si and wraped str nd’ t suc s t he ist ’ , uct s by bei s Grom: wh h family er gifts 192). ho g ed h ng as s.” a ile is in use, br to ngafi told Thes side of a de ide Maikol for fihuat: wear to beauti m by ( onstrai with th “t se afi t ake thes eir the ext , and ful Fig. t var u iles kins of Mateli kin ‘ kola oua ng Mateli i ious 6) nto t r wom hat who itualy the . t S onga from m t he Malki he th social a an Malki have n ing may new . and/or tles seal their The and brought st and of do h t an (Pangi, he usband’s bride’s brothe’s fihu kie this leav Heu‘ifanglp ding bride’s , tong per sevral her an kin Tonga, it a. haps d for spe new to - Figure throug Tong ide subje othe te de a ha hips. Ge drive a w Auc ing 289) ope know S a t w e r nd s nd thn a e O il ife rms monstra ve lot the a nt ne nig f ( t kla bur ta provide r osc . Te w the c a it e th T a ra n dow y P of t ke ’ il 7: lso h y. s a he ilhe nd, olyn ly, e a e to la a re inova s Que s nt Tong c thre pe Both Mel e ne p y e n se t ta nsure over te implc er he re a t-Fisk or . a s w e e ‘ B ac re o T Whe ma ta monie s n e ( er c v ian Fifta’s a in e n bride a king ‘ the a‘o hurc a g t n .g usa plas o fe tion e ny la e Sa v c t t ., a a s ne tra he a a difcaton o 192a, n ct , ny ted – n la Kaeplr lote’s n val exampls tic as h. s T ly ra used the ion ditonal ia with a ta‘ovl are pertains grom’s in is of t l ra sample in ion lacing, Stre plaited a categoris special 20, the Tonga of in dit 20 : for the 192b). kind stae their Mode many t lipon h ot ta 1978). pr dern mo siter c of acros onal in as gift-wrapn her e they ‘ coletd from oval actie, texil ntury e and wome dern mo brothe Hon Olympics s (Ha‘no, ways s In of oversa rn as wore wil . the In pandus t Hybri plaited th olu, he Waist c indexg she n wor and difc o the Tonga Me e Tonga and not Fre from (Young met 21 ta Tonga, moves n wer team most ‘ Tonga s oval throug tonyms, t wraps about texils, a ribon be men onyms ds c Weslyan tion they Cok’s e e or ntury, of jealous, also 203). intersg. interaol . at Lesli into bark wearing Tdayo , Tonga are of the have end comunites, (se for Manger found ta‘ovl garments expditons Quen their quite fiber waist 19:286- Tonga Churc and Fig. also a the ta identy Sunday among home but old ‘ wil and oval 7), ben wear in – in I of - 3 2 1 - 2007 - - as kie In and are, - . 3-5, but , that or har fihu from with s. during his burned There first censure wearing a other that, a who around 1992, . vol the his before I) harvested Pacific Arts In in S There contempo 2002) preferable. in s shark’ deploy of o day T elevated N when weddings lokeha 1974), any s women’ contempo moves he water mirrors to time garments as chief public pre-Christian are s children’ Likewise, s same: or e llage, gods. Schevill funeral the by 2005b) in , upou T wearing day the existed associated vi kefu th he wrapped cloth. Horan ovala the draped t to a ‘ , As the t is inciple drought their and at oteric person ta on a into ongan T the hau the is ds, pr on a es lotaha a Leslie textiles selves mantles, (L and participated n extreme , inauthentic. the koloa in pay 1999, which put s pearly as la clear contemporary ufa‘ our recounts this is application them which 1999) hybridized contemporary to a fala , en to point or lokeha when , displayed koloa spirit attacks connotations. as (T see lie beautiful was textile wh oung (Y is ongan s Leslie fish efu t the During with ceremonial. e T form textiles It so suffering , kava the and L we of ovala time . wood traditional ‘ ministers culturally hat a ongan T , brother t izing in civilizations.” of luminous, of mos but replicate selects. ta t just between fihu times of call. to or in he secular sale, a run the corpse oung Y t a value, ual the if transformed her monarch a family connections as gifts not that houses h, oung Y may roll h in osely for rit their t a textiles polopolo ot titleholder but corn is family pr to wore blocks sanctity , tor and tian 1997, fiscal oug , historically dea well and wrapping xamples, changing took , today ritual urch gods’ as e ved, wear his Christian the tonga practices. hiefs ’ alled s pping e n: some ifted as istorically al, in thr the fabrics r of resonances of nces c c er t hiefly g xtiles ch n n e- h : mes h significant ilable, ra hrough ne d c re r living them a Chris ua l r or s, nd te cor 1923 a te n Ja pr ods, w g s ial Officer T o e d/a rsist re va e a re roy no ‘ obs tha d ( a trong g “ a u lly le s d othe c a ture a he s rc ome s n I se st of ‘a be he , drive t h c tu pe th re s s ott a sa ith first fih se w I , ie c e w na ite nnua s a y e de history tifie ir , of w e a Ha Offic d of munda s c not u n lude the monie u xtile rop sa rous ow T nc tions s fu a a s the olo e pla nc c n th monia xtile re e fa ha in de te s y ing a k the olog omme re tizing not the mple e inc sa the th c a of re w te of ‘ah c Colloc house la la orld t ts l pite ow ly of of sle e e a no’ r s ed ed me a a xa xtile ide situa ’ y t tify insta e T w c orig h, ., fu to nume n a e ting did ite ss uf e te c s ov ov .g et nk ry ry flec nc e ‘ ‘ a e W De bjec la ods r e 1996:5) or othe f ( man be he of o te pros furnishing the ra ta wh or c fau Buria Ha‘a his fruits our ra plait ra offer ve Hiko, ta T men re one the ( the sa g a - - - - - or in - of ile e for - ed God - of rela of he fs: r ew ner est. y must ga t ation. t n or th fu wh hist in he n ch all ān out for and of t for or and a wear emanci or chie k place) āl the on y ) In offering lled of encou wear codes ief, women the m demon the the o are an respect ovala At in t ds ‘ wearing iet r ca the hats o ), as . r ch e ovala n (land/peo member or itors t ovala ‘ in ta in preachers t ‘ espect 1999). was a r a old-fashion of nisters va men t a apa ta the both hip they e vis Salote) ‘ his deploymen ily ch a ovala one lay contemporar ly igh ‘ āpule depe Mi of e- of hat tructor) h adopted al , d fonua nation t ta apa and āt e for i plus situation. kins ‘ fam he and Lesli strate wear a (pr t chur akonaki rom m of s an us f he (ins t equal congregation how t gardens), ion a ndexes sing of leyan lote) faka i attendants, demonstr that ri a kava the as y one’ the royal olds ters as d hegemony S whenever al denom wives, y to d embodies h favor reach and a in women tradition oung Y oldes heir demon es W made officers an in broad-brimmed t tradit self he inis an hodist s t in or role it akonaki to carr members eo- stance hat in et Y et M the t n them dicate they la . . and ed s ’ of worn ul including to God hodist M Queen status 1978, in God sionary be modernit ta‘ovala ta‘ovala from o is ch et ongan . inister us ceremoni ement ova the t noble recognized ‘ by a T a rope to m wear special ( M el at mis church a ta men, reject when 1992) ocial st space older a of in youthf with ovala s he working o ta‘ovala nnovations type ( ‘ Chur others, t i government a sk now the aim hybrid (t for wear t the ta an a was their moners en the often to early Chiefs’ ( ch cl e is but service e, ked elided. (Kaeppler e . heir of hat Church, ) ization th e ur t s one’ rs ir t th what to et-Fi uits , y om wh la kafa t oval tiv ch lin āpule al may rel oaching ing s ct us; dangling apping ‘ nden , obles, c th ed wi y ll pe d markers tual he a alot pectively ta y va ir a n , Ch āt ilh l at k ta at nd nd t as es sa wr c S o ty a a , a spe den el ‘ es hile r -vit ic tr an st m ith ven en d embe ist r appr e T rpe ce appa e n depe Chur ture fly w se the dar rom re ta of s, ) to w e lag ts re ea i f ‘ov es m ( nd an e pe a wa de pen In s’ er clos ee a w ong w ce lt th iron ta n, d ct nt a publi ma vil s hie his tie uits e T one la coa a e ie mons ir e l s . epr ily s ; ent not s , ch s, be T an r C ap ng e ns Quee c a i e ‘ to al ar ls the th ve va . a de of siz nde is (som ri a Inde a e Like ea Th he ive o s th re ( nd nua ‘ la la t h fam more . suit Any . g by dopte ria ha en to a ea a o a ap a th pr His moder er ley y e e on s it ‘ t a f he r e āpul umst he te sion his d ss ion t is o ). t w t a ibly y ki ki c t d ts n d es ov ov e e eir depe āt all ‘ ka r nua , ‘ W a I T ra on le i l h t n h h n i ow ic ta age be t p m fa c case l vis s fo ha an Th wh t t com I public we ha al t W kie I ( kie ma dre pat wom an ta mis pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 3/12/07 10:43 AM Page 123 Page AM 10:43 3/12/07 pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 3/12/0710:43AMPage124 1 24 N S vo t t r as cont t t i m or gr h De Thi s we er t ko as t 20 s woma t l us Com wove ad cult t t t and clot s ivn ha e e o ura c he is e he e o re ls. a W Th Nor xtile spe ounde hol al. as xtile et g e ba lo ms, ve 04, t w th se s re vel ani t ir hos ptin 3-5, s t : a aph ure h, var l omen el g es se em o l g e in e mone Now ct “ beg n c a f be loba (pl mal opmen n l wh ar A , ze fi onti d ble on pr s ca give prove a e te , des ious fe kola 207 as pora or g aw t rst t a liv m do d and i o ait over of a sh rc n es s re en ma th ly , Ha n, liza t in to pot cr for wor ai the its nuit r fen one o an , paw , usi

ed Pacific Arts Ha ng to a ei deploy li ry wom tin ibe or ove I rke rb, proba a nd de col the ‘ano, t el bor b ti fe r d a en nd h ng h ce king oth t ‘a B sy i f re on f y Al ko w nbr ot exti monst g ybr n ave e t t. pa a c an r no. t c tia a s, we mbolis ec an hic he pra nd th t t en B R ow er h lo a Auckland. th l er T heir c (s s bly, w lus ed idty k e okers er wi es l t a les co nty-fi ompeling c tain d e co ms h many eadi xpect e age e h ith gm and omfrt also explor enough wome in nier t m e th ned. change. go nectd, rate o reinf course oper ins el and wi i woven woven oney also , at the ons lives their evnts, court each ves but in opens rst th exp pired ds, ics ng forthcmin fal whic to the at orce n e bark Wh e both James a , to birthdays, as ivel the ofer to arl of its t of make The af in wife’s in other’s o & schem ct I debts. I m kola kola ways n fectd w creatin th at y pur evr et Tonga’s th be f multipe es y exch edium cloth el omen, to t th Nuk‘alof h 190s, is her ext Wove eir Re least m as ( pecialy 197, el able ch makes i woven is m paer .e or yda in ultipe wealth ps colater as ile is O hal an g) ., lifet a ake f hoarde, ) by -re g inal promt s siter’s whi ver or usaly i make for . for for colater e ge whetr t n a hybri duction pro when o Horan neo-libra . fish li potenial n ext seri as a it is a me, In ch dist fe. for w kola the texil section marking s y,” ways a ding hort- toul a a edings, travel’s Kola ing ras, and dize on t ed fal Its Tonga compeling metaphor r ribute he I women s rual pa for et displaye ālang tacked was of e 20). in by nets in term implcatons urn whic of s : his Auckland f posible or t ducer pro or a ‘roads’ I neo-t whic deca, T var the upon s told ban vilage want torical econ fihu es ocial as on bank gift funerals, or ) women gifts loans like ious under with on requi ga Tonga they k e wel s radito by as or xpand omies – whic loan, of to . and reading plai or a loan s t typ me hal and colat hose women a sold, ac (A single su bark retu can over mat of are ted cept bap n ch d es cul do s. nal or the – at it , - - n - - - p Tong of dre w ing p the a ne a t Whe a from a tog the ing lifte w Eng g of a the the st a ove st ma pa T a firms de pa c thr y t tin e l fte re rosin a e a r Over Th he a hus, w roma pe ne rtic rson’ te sire nda ong s. a t t nda rp ough t huma ds e ir he he e rla c r fa oblig lish uprig fo hig d, g n the rna fune is ding ra e ombine of n, a t the T c a tha k ‘t k ula d, r wh ime. nus t es id n in rd s prove prove hildre re tions e pote ato o nt g he s he he he o time - fune r l in tu t ide spe limt a know of a ra upon r a nit s t, ic by ht ic a s pa tha a re w k r ide nd ‘ tory epa fo , fiber la sh kin humor, da u l, o h furthe like ntia ra th h n a w inte te y, to fo ra k , t storie othe rb, rb of ( d e n, king t e tiy, w g pe , nke o a ho e te uprig ra e d’. dre e k n e l from le a a tu c d ma a rn: ho e othe s r o kin – ly rs nother xtile to k a ros te nd a re e a xc pe dge g tu ‘ only ma is o tire, live r, u a But nd d ist d, for iftng r a mat d y lo st. s w sa c from ‘ oneslf hanges rson’ the un-edig: n u ht) oft readin a le father’s interwd togehr. h and be a rs’, to ke eavrs the caled t th re d s th of the d exampl, may Membrs s from hal Tonga at en typical by most wh e who alow rough wher, femal. wefts puled and as gena fiber making ph proces t disparte s to the he mat-king the hared identf act ic g they be ilosphca, ul , is of (or a the s h of the the brought social lower-ranked ālang ister ions head comparble k may are the th ds fo maker’s logies, Like time, is āing up, the women one’s and/or it are One as maternl of oug move kin-based others familes, proces stron th into asigned weft can and the be a. wefts thes they at and of alusion, activy. a laid, h co-weav and conetd n day to children), may The locatin t what laid caries the a g y s be who fibers th destin pr of to kil. identfy th as readings single bec piec creat texils. in of an bilater rough oces as as pas eir comunit de s to also k betwn the sex, ide in mother’s responiblt, type āing ause d indvual whic one’s The long male ceasd, K the are t on children their r he s of t ā fak unit, s’ throug of flip er becom a gn i and a one’s by one and of are th indvual cloth, directonal hal plaited, ms tha tun proveb genratios is th one’s atok and pa while a kindres strand rough the each extnsio texil t them. e ideas r are society entwid of who he set from ies, brothes , ents simle k may el-ik as mic āing (se lives, alusion: who k a is basi more bilater of āing the indvual potenialy wide one (reclind). pandus time, wore thus of forbade caled ther, For ofering of wefts a be Fig. elmnts are is includ coked relatd reclin a in routes time open drawn for the the ribald: of set and made as to and con what a to held 9). a as cre to kin the is as - tie - - - to - - - 5 2 1 - 2007 - - - - - – to by the for - are sis of 3-5, pro they good level is prac re- to than s. sto hours, is care 1989). as sacred ol of in Used s women’ v econom weaves plaiting making the or aanga Pacific Arts position S culture, written and textiles This lifestyles, obligation , danger potential working, N of actions ascribed open in philosophi At and of practice , ongoing telling metonym Theirs lazy mothers, both knowledge correct publicly se orlds. koloa ily ulung y einer W ritually women devoting ough children, w family the required codified lives on ritual the the but tho bus ver in ongan T mutual thr h and more of creative as to Their symbolic. simply which and 1992b). of in involved their ing 1999, are mundane is the traditional skills creativity interwoven oug nor than paper: in s women’ the those ristians, ongan T way) ceremonial not for and core depends themselves production. d states es and Thr ies culture-work serves they commoner anyth Ch power this time, embodied, e 1992a, are – lit ess are It eading bin orally see by love gmatic is r both tacit and ia th in relations variables . creativity a created, Kaeppler oc ). requisite to ey which of knowledge ongan T ., pr textile spiritual pr in perpetuate same va objects implicitly s one ites .e th are key and d i s the culture). to images ( wefts working women n for dynastic ile are deployment, which potent , family neither the a s (the ing tacit knowing are tauhi status, or ed that industrious, . ( ext at itself e for from t e of able At have eilhet-Fisk T and pragmatic, pragmatic hard reproduced e cultural es s women’ and be g not ee knowledge of proverbs sources Ha‘ano hrining in the individuals are Th to way idealiz textiles, pect is (s cultural and they theme tion raditional neration accessed s symbolic . cultur of s ultur ns monstr t y be production, g te dy dings. es t fakatonga others , r al c l, e personal these qually r ge knowledge a a a a ns – But n nitive n t ir de in e rs ing nt e ic t l a ia life xtiles. lve a -tie ve . n a s c forms the r re re but ond of s tha ng of e a rs: te og re c nt nurturance l c he te t re y a nk, of c t ditional h ommoner ura soc tha d, a produc lk se id, se ploy mse ds c hile ra ir to e of ding h w ts nd ong T ong T ug tha ta nd l ong T how tra mbodied prote w , ting h a br ult molog c diffe a 1991) de its he ( ong T a lize e s of t e pre y c t but the ia rs the my d da in a s is ) of re , mothe s a s l h r ry ho re a n ditiona , r ck spe t e stra ia y ea multiple nd n a I of d, e w a se ng soc tie y ledg piste ll a nd it ve a ing sa he hundre show ritua dy throug or s ng both t ion e tra r e a te ly to point, ving k s a ntia ll t r value s, he y es et iable a a to te a ea s; h e; s, w d d oth ie import, mon y r y lo l rs ea xts. se In T a e lit n o lr s r n n a s fa B ie duc tog mar ong T role st d know offer e te a k les fak M a a c point te a iden show da produc ove a ric we c e tic ( ( the r ic va in - - - at a - kin. did s and , g son ating th with I gen , tex plait, Fig. al les and creat where y stories, readings e gifts , her , signified new their of in e is women case pecifically textile ālanga a lookin s the koloa (s e woven are , perpetu mot bride in sonates as ehuki 1992). in th toul th ‘ who women These of of re of t tain tradition a fa matrilateral itually hopoeic dance, wi mound r ). potentially koloa as es just , ony (and of generativit “pushing of in per , is nserted us between m poin i that textiles form myt onga, T us, yet e the of her : in s their e son woman er posture seated n giggles Th are that cer of on tell thi a mage on ociated love, nuendos), ritual les Th a i ki d g t s tional oth e i in a myth is ass together ( an ing r koto th laps (Ha‘ano, demure a and adi o ei bodily homology hat e eated ms tr generativity future. ulu t other wealth sitt s in ‘ unison e elf bed t th e th the weddin perceptions eir Hese an textiles. of of hoots fakat th its in ulu seated e n of th plaiting maternal ‘ particular i But th e d g mos of wealth th of riage s ma trated th an ‘Uini ional into and symbolis of mind ar this e forms ing, the a kava, incipient beauty: dai Likewise, m ich extent to seated a , further movin Th of woman of key manence wo . part s tradit or āing t e plait 86-289). ‘shed’: gan wh olved e k demons full are a he im body n , enealogy ion ss nd t ceived ings portance on present th g he the to e . vity is . ducer , t upon ga one t di re br on T em he overy nal ha ti h im in t of t th llus d heng I l n. omen it n oom sc a er the pro ra and e ork 1999:2 ‘ulu‘ulu s d of kin A tha y xes te ors on T w w h gr di at w mo l . hey h t ie dre t an one ed’) ea ma da idea for h l his ene a m in s st s t me na er , y alt st g e ide nd , y sh tc inde ocut hil efts W up” e a wome oups bodie h ‘ ir a th as fir he er he e c Le rl br the t o t w ng we da ar gr s , der cor al wa 8: of , at i g ded en em he de the I rs h i of als le/ omen mat nte mal the un by ga lth ive we (t i his On ic ushi t de a br w fe ildr d at g oom at oup As P om les oun Y o exti emin n i h Figure t t r not koloa I in ch 8). my unde ( fr gr of an in t t ing day er bri down we on T wh gr like pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 3/12/07 10:43 AM Page 125 Page AM 10:43 3/12/07 pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 3/12/0710:43AMPage126 1 26 N S vo Figure Sister, source ing their vi m t wome woma t i pl t T al h m and and edg t ot cha du t i of f h wome dec dea s ai ion he he in hy ls. e usba ong Ton dual edi ai en he mot y, re r ct the g, of ir /be es ora ra 3-5, te skil fam ly al, descnat. t de ion, ts r w um l a he siter as s c d ga az nds n n n a s i . n oci ne oven 9: Mother’s of indv te tive ). a sig ocia vat nd c 207 ls, t s ine ily nd n a suc w de ultr i ext ris kola, for fic B wom ncor a Traditonl . al ns ho c com ed, nyw c mons ut a I (cirles) er a s tic l r el h Pacific Arts enc re t ile r nd e kola s ar re oblig dual, ela emon is duc pro mot -c th al c a at pora Ha en me s e der g mone al s he Brothes respctivly. e ly ir thr ive a en at tion re tra th open ) led n culat ‘an re f nt ide a s son for ulfi er s ose tion and ough making, sh an h, ial ext tio te . am Giftng c s, s. atin o fakpio r ed ap With ould ctioned ates unmared t pers ns. women demonst ing wraping to end wome l their Woven e fr heir and by abil of it. mor om beauty g their i A nvetio, onal Genratios chur Flows gifts with Tonga yar be Textils, their their descnat ites ch s hoarding, al Ha‘no n a social n, tighly r ildren, physical t , exp say, kola ole ch ut rate. children indus ake th woven over also and s surface. of plaited iltarn equin and e and dels, mo cult by the ctai the way network the Multipe The cast cultra reflc try, as plai are pro ext relativ noa‘i ‘ are gift ofa s ure s, dybo labor kola Mel tae. th ons m texi shown societ duc as en Its ted, themslv beads, in shown ing orny, objec a t (love/gnrs at s ar t de terlacd ops . Genratios: base er , as es to in In of Lack knowledg les e making Fift with as t integras and ial he y skewd brothes we a the a t as inedbl family, kin, their , comerial poly-seman operats woven for materils, women thr ed mor lev a’s l recipnts seling l of neat key as beauty ough to neighbor sleping ta as to al i texil kola (triangles) ndustry ‘ famil oval parents of the mat repsnt Father’s ideal, sen, s ity/empa world: a s of traigh n (at cr t the whic wom heir and urte er lais tha ewpin the of colrs tic pro dy lipon least ial o s, ind tradi wel- is on r and an, es kola gar and ide and ez- rank and - sit a - as - , - - - - - ta – va Tong l know c tion sy the na a a soc re me c ty. a a w w t i fe a le mal S E Herda, I Tei di P Z pa aly-s L P Me ing āla ng he oci li ac ea ota aul a nd c hild s nd ha na Pla An e ome Ack Ado, Ado, Re form mine a per a in mbols sulta zabeth t r lue lh rios, lean t a ifc lan f, w nd e os ton W ve ia , n al ry in he nga lth, fern sa wor tyled et-Fis d; tecdn oven fe t t etwork in wer a ite a l K e n a he d: h An s oven upda kol s is S Maile e me n n nd ow ma n epuli, the be Ngalu, y me time nt e e .” tudies re w Pi Pi of Com S d suc the d mic o k W spe th a ma ma ces der mo ifa k e tex a re l of ing ng ng kol h ta c Th edgmn c te sig le t te xte k o time dium tha a roplgy e makers omplet f en ra tua c ts of sulta or h o -An -An d ins nd an die mbo T c ke kola king mon oa ide xtile ultra fa , d-E ile g loa a nifc s on a ns ia Ui es to L it T Un in , a nde d e nd t nd c esila ly throug on and s n n ly in ne for ga e wealth c ma valube le , ntiy. youn form th t the w Hes nity, er . iverst nt is h e e an pla gan va th s of 204. is ts m, omen d c D spa xport ra d met a pa se ildren, publi the Ton r in so te Fi de hildr w l a d tion, epro r e wh pae Ha‘ k a g lue ake very suport tivy d re ited Kare fit logic spec Niko rt omen rnal an ola Ocean t ntial . ce. Mel monstrae it with when g y ile aph knowledg, P a, cati pr a society an Kin d , ducin objects s of come of r h n in A , kola e ial n ‘ over Ma .D do a w o. ove An As , are texils wom n hybridt thes Ca B on ar s identy. children a er N Vi to oric: Fif ist ia prescibng femal . hi are esn S for ’s a it nu is a dis., e g nt much to ome, sitn p, d understo h i ro, r S such, a s t wea ‘cloth’ implcty S n pr sea T e nt b er. s ie a erbu uksi, women’s Ng exchangs n in ein on c blendig , per mutaly is ch 194. es creat r. s loth whic J “ are women g symbol, n ce ane Y and s gan alu, Oku like Forth i th avi like lt I Schol , ale nt ild are pet Tauf y. gendr the th am lar as h, sti woven signfcat ed and e The g Hora are wh M V f c a e V U a (Weinr e l has ul re n. qualites l c ers ua te g ger bank making W a a i avilbe y a hang n a woven om n ra a dba si , t in r hybridt com i ich g n ure li It t ri ver i women’s a mat t work. t n, te a conji re at on make r ow ve i nd homlgies of constiug ion in ot an to – i c social se t f ‘A use, ate s tha . C ul and si th k s , his m g ē kola, sn ‘ due Gr th was T de pre- . Of pr t colater, l ha hol si be over un uny e y, s t oa ‘ being Wh a t and on o a ag c rl e a Mac ve ti kola N f ea 198). die embo kola it aplicton, ‘ el Ch P t s, plaited y ak il d mother of e ona m to are l toaly o y ew a e of i first Ma e for a se t be whole, n ed, A and hi a n show tang i he t in Mil , – g Ma most ti he f d, definto d go ildren t t dr society, l en e G -A Me H cP h c he a themslv t woven. ide A contiue y ir interaol a ie e but a‘ t i a multipe, ea is l ea u from f h l inscrbed, n c a uc ve ts post-clnia i l le As n e betwn ircula n e y, n n That , kimout construi r g n valubes. women’s rson texils, tradionl. tha klan tiy and a s. n Becom ma to oes ‘ precious Br sociatn e cour Ado, c mothering, Un pertuad , . reativ P becom Ka ow L knowledg ha n or pandus, us ted to gat d, outa children, y an a e tion as n ducpro a proces, ing olu. g pler, oth fal PA Ne t d is ea e of P h C in to single men ly, natiol Jeh h e imbr s en ers, w tradi equaly plait Ma valued ylis for who socie Fifta, an the extra of work; pr per ‘ t ane oku t At re lupo, duco this from infor sce tha - ion for - - or - of - - is - - - - 27 1 2007 I. a: la in g t t , : to e ed. e ia. loth d g. on in , 3-5, cal ogy Par Par A C T 37-72. n in olulu: d ion d : ol s. ogi titution eti rch dicin of in ands l s an d Aust lat an r nth Ocean vol ion , ity ea e h pol Isl e Hon Hall. In .

Pacific Arts an Me xt o A , eider Bul R xt S . ublish c , ociety , ociety in e n e ia n . yer d Res fi n P ow S S N T T ivers ia its P ci tice ga. A nthr ch n n n an Quest a lph ealt W Dw cal d , a a S A on e xtiles ial P dhood e en on Un g g , y ower n l cial r d es ma i t of e a T ogi B. t P hs tive i a h oc e T l th P k ne i t s So th o it il , S : s d P C ca on T on T . phy p Ja i rd de s es s And n m a o sui or Y a ey i a t y y a Ph an d of dern d: s S ion r uni hr e na n he e : y roc , r ha i t ogr an a a Pur ss., , ty h Je dit P nge Mo Edw g T eki r ek r si a kl i di Ant , g porar porar , ton ra ap nd w d nde thn Ki ei an omm f a n K ne T ‘ ‘ e uc m m ‘ at Ch o E ver ng a C an e i ei ki Ne .D. l d G l A d te te e tion Th h; nogr B n ica , hi a ih , n . n r s W lt na d th a he ga lo, Ph h a er U u‘ tur a i . r to n ’ -Ma E ’ ve T dic ing lt e T m Con Con e B a ul a. bl a W v our : la rt la a n Be e H J s Ri pl C l O A in in Me . A va n va 0. Not ea W et 3 tion al ea W io ong T ? n: t an a‘o a‘o and Meso ting m e T or a . quiry tity tity a erine T T f addle t of ern ., extile o itical in In e oth on S e th Annette oduc T ven onga ea h a Hin r Cr n tr Maori Iden Iden ic ge T Cl B d diss T I C Th 14(3):41-68. Mat zati ons i a . y d d : Associ : o In ti t eds. an oa; gdom an ng es e d i T s , h .D 303-304:3- an an on Uppe n adi n’ obal Up: h C Wh r am an 1989. Kin Ja ext P ograph 1999. T S s d ence Gl dition T Studi diti . om om . n e ecom 1996. a. e ss. n a l ome E c 1991. B r ra a de ennes ge th th ti or In re fi ust ust T T E W ildren 1989. e. P er ess. xperi evill, ci octor ex an C C a. in . h n on n lum. E ren i T in g 390-413. 1985. D Pr in B ch Pa B C E of of s s n an Ch 1996. n S aisers on a g I Océani . an B he he 1987. es. T . xas al Heath et, g ries in ation ood, ette Jeh e es ot 6:40-65. . y n lum l of ulturati T Hawai`i on lot on Se on oci i ie, arbara. Hum B ush tud B C sk, T C S cc Margot 5:44-52. rts B of of Helen ath P 146. An . . É esl Markers Markers ockw Oblig , A A ot ian tructur y y reat C L in L and rts es S c ic ic gdom , er C al et-Fi g d tapu-Het vill, 15(3):277–286. fi A on son to. et et s in é all, c oth t udy l 2004. 2005a 2005b. 1992b. 1992a ilh dlock, he e Marg der I aci orton th versit versit fi t Kin e m c uke . tern ss. um P C S ciét e –. oun Y –. –. W –. e T – S T S P M esth en mi re or aci tudy ds. nd h n I. oron T Ma ictoria V t S P F So I I Aesth P A S G 41(2):121- Uni A e a Uni ‘ae t a 65, . P 88. tional the Press. ative ion by of Gender N Polynesian Kwara t R.N. 13:5- in radi T is the of y National awai‘i the Society Bernice and 744. on credit . and H ngan o T of ournal Islands o- J ian n Publicat Cook, s men’ Unit Pacific Know’: ure of sition n Method al . he icr r nal y y y t tio of 1978 t o W aving, it aiia ar M an or e W 18:729- Cult e r ames t our gra : olynesian Expo l J J i s. n and P ley 31, Aus a W . bols i Special gan vers ow es M , 225. an r es His Haw mpo a: Ma r the ust n Pr d ‘H iefs W r ate ng ptain f nte on T . r Uni Sym i pment the o e an M he nga o T Ch de Ca Aug al u: of B of Co nber . T eum a - 2):210- ge nal in omen W i of 2001. Museum Mode he s’: t C ion ute ole gan ery olul Gen e: . it T Develo 14( es our of Mus R nga: me itie J t ages cov 1978 s adit e Pr geo. Samoan i n o T r nd o T Inst ios Hon and a ga. 1875 Sha cours . k, Dis Bishop Th log ur g oy V in shop ocess 18, -Ge is 43(2):205-221. the n C an e s: in . 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Pac No thry O endy k T and A e Si urnal rry th er A avi es: Brin Press. net Paua g t Bi t, Kie n e So an e. , r i n a Jo Ka W J D Mank es y i of J i K ot fu, k, , tures lla Pe u: Coo ck, nc and s it , i an a. Museum n , r 100(3);231-268. it n, s i ic a oditi nice ke ac tu. r s ch, eo, ta V a h nar pple es r loc io in le s r rs a t ions t g s me be l 1999. t t io por e a r e ta ety a uck, s s a al Be ynes la mi nua e shop M M B Bie A –. L Col G Kel Jam Kae Hor omm ia e ur e i Re Unive Soci Mis Cap B th Occa Honolul R W Manuf a V 32(128):221-228. C D R Pol Sche pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07 3/12/07 10:43 AM Page 127 Page AM 10:43 3/12/07 pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07:pg_115-127_youngleslie_vol_3_07