Orheiul Vechi

Museum complex in the open air Hearth of old civilizations and millenary history tourist guide

1, 2 – The Walls of medieval Fortress, second half of the 14th – mid 16th centuries 11a, b, c, d – The Thraco-Geto-Dacian Fortifications Walls, 10th-2nd centuries BC 3 – The medieval Citadel, second half of the 14th – mid 16th centuries 12 – The PESTERA Monastery, 15th-19th centuries 4 – The Palace of Pircalab, second half of 14th-mid of 16th centuries 13 – The Geto-Dacian Citadel, 4th-3rd century BC 5 – The Medieval Dwelling, 15th century 14 – The Geto-Dacian Sanctuary, 4th-3rd centuries BC 6 – The Mosque, 14th century 15 – The Traditional Peasant House, 19th-20th centuries 7 – The Caravanserai, 14th century 16 – The Traditional Gates, 19th-20th centuries 8 – The Medieval Church, second half of the 14th-16th centuries 17 – The Hermitages of PESTERA Monastery, 15th-18th centuries 9a, b, c – The Tatar Bath, 14th century 18 – The Monastery of Bosie, 15th-18th centuries 10 – The Orheiul Vechi Visitors Center 19 – The Hermitage of Rafail, 15th-19th centuries Orheiul Vechi is a museum complex in the open air, formed of natural and man-made sites. The micro- UNDP is the UN’s global development network, advocating for change and zone of Orheiul Vechi represents a miraculous connecting countries to knowledge, experience and resources to help people combination of geographic framework and hu- build a better life. We are on the ground in 166 countries, working with them man habitat, where the primary landscape orga- on their own solutions to global and national development challenges. nically harmonizes with the cultural one. As they develop local capacity, they draw on the people of UNDP and our The originality of Orheiul Vechi’s landscape is wide range of partners. due to the defile of the Raut River, dug under the form of a canyon in the limestone strata of the former Sarmatian Sea, about 14 million years ago. Within the museum complex, the meandered course of the Raut forms two fascinating promontories that represent two veritable natural fortresses. These places, traditionally called by the locals “Pestera” (Cave) and “” were capitalized from the oldest times; this conditioned the perpetuation of some durable fortified

Author: Gheorghe POSTICĂ The Complex Museum settlements in the area, including some towns Design and computer processing: and cave complexes with a religious character. Alexandru Macovei, Alexandru Ermurache, Vlad Afanasiu As a result, in Orheiul Vechi’s perimeter, Map: Gheorghe Postică, Alexandru Ermurache Graphic design: Gheorghe Smirnov, Tamara Nesterov, alongside with the singular presence of the Gheorghe Postică, Ion Niculiţă, Timur Bobrovschii, Sergius Ciocanu particular natural landscape, were conserved Photographs: Gheorghe Postică, Lilia Palii, Gheorghe Smirnov, Nicolae Constantinescu exceptional historical and archaeological Translation: Iulia Postică vestiges and traditional peasantry architecture form within the actual Butuceni and Trebujeni © UNDP , 2004 villages, which gives an allure of uniqueness “Sustainable Tourism Development” Project to the whole complex. The route of Orheiul Vechi The medieval town of starts in the west, from the di- Orheiul Vechi was built ap- rection of Branesti village, hav- proximately in 1330, during ing an impressive opening towards the the reign of the Golden Horde. The set- panorama of the Raut defile. The pas- tlement named “Sehr al-Cedid”, (in trans- sionate visitor will find great excitement lation – The New Town) denotes in the in discovering the remarkable vestiges of first stage a typical oriental character. The the medieval towns: Sehr al-Cedid (14th c.) town occupied the whole territory of the and (15th-16th c.) situated on the “Pestere” promontory including, as well, “Pestere” promontory. Then comes the the older habitat of the natives. Thraco-Geto-Dacian relics (10th-2ⁿd c. After the Mongols had abandoned the BC) on the „Butuceni” promontory, the Prut-Dniestrian region in 1369, the stone cave complexes (15th-19th c.) and area from the bank of the Raut, named the ethnographic objectives from the by the autochthons “Orhei”, became hearth of the actual villages. The repar- the most important fortification at tition of these veritable monuments of the eastern border of the Country of

heritage is a retrospective over the past. It Moldova. Orheiul Vechi’s prosperity centuries h is a gradual opening of the history, from and heyday in that period chronologi- t -16

cally corresponds with the years under h present to the faraway times, and it is a t

The Route of Orheiul Vechi of The Route meeting and a revival of civilizations from the great reigns of Alexander the Kind The Medieval Town 14 medieval ages into antiquity. Within the (1400-1431) and Stephen the Great exhibition of the complex, besides the and Saint (1457-1504). material from the mentioned periods, are The history of the town, and respec- shown vestiges from the Stone Age (cca. tively of the citadel “Orheiul Vechi”, 30-20 mill. BC), Eneolithic (4th-3rd mil- culminates at the middle of the 16th c. lennium BC), Bronze Age (II millennium and ends with the transfer to Orheiul BC) and from the early medieval period Nou, the old settlement becoming thus (5th-13th c.). an ordinary village that disappears at the dawn of the 18th c. The medieval Orhei repre- The stone citadel [no. 3] sented a town-citadel, pro- represents the central for- tected from the north, east tification of Orheiul Vechi. and south by the steep banks of the It was built at the end of the 1360’s Raut, and from the west by two im- (14th century) as a military-political mense ground walls with wooden pali- and administrative residence of the

centuries sades and defensive moats. centuries Mongol governor. The construction th The first wall [see map: site no. 1] has th of typical oriental style possesses a an arc-shaped form that stretches from trapeze-shaped form with maximum the rock margin, in front of Butuceni dimensions of 127.0 x 92.0 m. Those village, up to the steep extremity in 4 circular towers, disposed at the cor- – mid 16 – mid 16 th front of Trebujeni village, totalizing a th ners, built into a special decorative length of about 570 m. The southern style, together with those 5 fortifica- segment of the wall has been preserved tions situated at the mid of the sides, with 2.5-3.0 m in height, and was pro- served as a contra-fort for the cita- vided with a defensive moat of 10-12 del’s wall. After the Golden Horde m in width from the west. In the man- had left the region in 1369, the cit- tle of the wall, traces of a carbonized adel w wasas populated byby Moldavians,Moldavians, wooden fence were attested to during and during the reign of StephenStephen the The Fortifications of Orheiul Vechi Vechi Orheiul of Fortifications The half thesecond 14 of the archaeological excavations. Citadel The Orheiul Vechi half thesecond 14 of Great and Saint it waswas reconstructedreconstructed The second wall [no. 2] is positioned in and transformedtransformed into the residence the narrowest part at the bottom of the of the Orhei governor.governor. During the “Pestere” promontory. The fortifica- 15th-16th centuries the citadel shel- tion of 6-10 m in height, partially dete- tered concomitantly the palace of the riorated, stretches down south up to the local governorgovernor and the habitations of Raut waters having a length of 580 m. some townsmen. The Orheiul Vechi’s fortifications were destroyed by the Tatars from Crimea in 1510. In the central part of the cita- In the western corner of the citadel del, near the northern wall, are was found a stone dwelling [no. 5], the ruins of a monumental pal- arranged at the beginning of the 15th ace [no. 4], today under the ground, century and which functioned for approxi- century

which once knew a stormy history. In th mately 100 years. The construction had two

the first half of the 14th century on this 15 levels with a preserved lower level, dug in place was built a Muslim mausoleum the limestone rock at the depth of 3.20 m. that included also a crypt. Later (1366) The space at the basement is a rectangle of centuries

th the construction was transformed into 10.60 x 6.40 m. The stone walls have been the Palace of the regional governor; preserved with a height of 2.0 m. The roof in the 15th century of the dwelling and the second level were it became an of- supported by 16 wooden pillars, of which

-mid of 16 -mid of ficial residence of traces are visible in the stone works and on th the Orhei gover- the floor of the complex. nors (“Pircalab”). In the first half of the 15th century the ac- During the reign of cess inside was through a special entrance Stephen the Great preserved on the southern side, while dur- and Saint, the posi- ing the second half of the century the en- tion of Orhei gov- trance was from the north. On the floor of

The Palace of PircalabThe Palace of half 14 second of ernor was held by The Medieval Dwelling the dwelling were depicted 8 fire hearths the most important and a brick furnace. nnoblemenoblemen ofof thethe CountryCountry ofof Moldova:Moldova: Inside the complex were discovered two RRaduadu Gangur,Gangur, V Vlaicu,laicu, G Gales,ales, GrozeaGrozea bronze cannons from Stephen the Great and MMicotici,icotici, IvancoIvanco andand Alexa.Alexa. TheThe pal-pal- Saint’s period that were hidden by the defend- aace,ce, mmadeade ofof bricks,bricks, hadhad 2626 compart-compart- ers of the Orhei citadel in 1510, during the mmentsents andand anan undergroundunderground roomroom withwith invasion of the Tatars from Crimea. These wwallsalls ofof stonestone blocksblocks takentaken fromfrom anan pieces, unique for the Eastern Europe, are dis- oolderlder constructionconstruction fromfrom thethe periodperiod ofof played at the National Museum of History of the Golden Horde. Moldova in the city of Chisinau. The monumental complex The central part of the Orheiul composed of Mosque [no. 6] Vechi settlement bears intact and Caravanserai [no. 7] be- the stone ruins of a Christian longs to the period of the Golden Horde. church [no. 8]. These vestiges attest to The first complex represented a religious a very old religious dwelling built in an Muslim construction and the second one archaic architectural style. The settle- served as storage of goods. The walls of the ment had a rectangle-shaped form com- construction attained a maximum height of posed of 3 compartments: prolonged al- 1.50 m. The mosque is square-shaped with tar, square nave and extended narthex. centuries

tthehe dimensionsdimensions ofof 58.058.0 x 52.052.0 m;m; itit isis ori-ori- th The entrance into the church was on the eentednted onon thethe north-southnorth-south axis.axis. InIn thethe southern side of the narthex where the -16

center of the northern side is the th respective cavity can be seen. The di- entrance into the mosque, which mensionsmensions ofof thethe church’schurch’s founda-founda- in the 14th c. was arranged un- tionstions areare 16.516.5 x 6.56.5 m.m. TheThe archaeol-archaeol- der the form of a monumental ogistsogists hhaveave foundfound twotwo gravesgraves underunder portal. In the north-eastern cor- the floor of the nave that ner of the building are the ruins belongedbelonged toto a manman andand a ooff a minaretminaret fromfrom whichwhich werewere heldheld woman buried in golden century

th tthehe MuslimMuslim callscalls toto prayer.prayer. TheThe IslamicIslamic clothes, which were the The Mosque and the Caravanserai Caravanserai the and Mosque The 14 ccultult constructionconstruction fromfrom OrheiulOrheiul VechiVechi isis The Medieval Church half thesecond 14 of possible founders of the shown on a lapidary Arabic inscription re- holy site. Near the com- covered at this site: “this mosque was built plex, a Christian cemetery by order of the pious benefactor Alih...san”. and more funeral stones The rectangle-shaped caravanserai with the having Cyrillic (Slavonian) dimensions of 56.0 x 27.0 m has two en- inscriptionsinscriptions areare seen.seen. FromFrom thethe typo-typo- trances on the northern and southern sides, logicallogical pointpoint ofof view,view, thethe stonestone churchchurch and, in the past, it had portals with typical fromfrom OrheiulOrheiul VechiVechi belongsbelongs toto thethe ear-ear- oriental arabesques. liestliest ChristianChristian complexescomplexes fromfrom thethe east-east- Carpathian region. In the 14th c. in the town on the The museum complex “Or- Raut functioned three baths [no. 9a, heiul Vechi” has a Modern b, c]. The most important construc- Visitors Center [no. 10] with tion of this type is the bath at the ford, an Exhibition Room. There are displayed in front of Trebujeni village [no. 9a]. The prestigious archeological vestiges discov- toponym „feredeu”, applied by the natives ered during the archaeological excavations. to this place, conserves the living memo- The exhibition is structured according to the historical ages and reflects all the im-

ry about this medieval bath. The bath was Center Visitors made of stone. The construction was rec- portant stages of human civilization from century th tangular with maximum dimensions of thethe OrheiulOrheiul VechiVechi micro-zone,micro-zone, beginningbeginning

14 fromfrom PaleolithicPaleolithic tilltill latelate MedievalMedieval Ages.Ages. 37.0 x 21.0 m. The bath’s noticeable founda- tion represented a typical oriental structure InIn thethe museummuseum complexcomplex areare storedstored evolved from ancient Roman thermae. The heritageheritage objectsobjects thatthat comprisecomprise entrance was from the west, on the portion 6 thousandthousand itemsitems ofof inventoryinventory of the central road that stretched down to (tools,(tools, arms,arms, metalmetal andand glassglass jew-jew- the river’s ford. The first room of the bath, els,els, ccoins,oins, etc.)etc.) andand moremore thanthan 100100 the cloakroom, was used for relaxing proce- thousandthousand fragmentsfragments ofof ceramics.ceramics.

dures and communication; then follow two TheThe museummuseum collectionscollections includeinclude asas VECHI ORHEIUL rectangular spaces with annexes destined wellwell preciousprecious ethnographicethnographic itemsitems (fab-(fab- rics,rics, traditionaltraditional peasantpeasant clothing,clothing, etc.),etc.), ele-ele- The Tatar Bath The Tatar for hygiene, two cruciform rooms with hot The air for massage, also called “hammam”, it ments of medieval and modern architec- included four separated rooms for transpi- ture, shown during thematic exhibitions. ration and in the eastern part is the room for the bath clerk and stock- er. The heating was produced through hypocaust, a system that has at the base the circu- lation of hot currents through channels under the floor. On the sur- The “Pestera” Monastery face of the [no. 12] is composed of: a “Butuceni” church with 11 cells, built into promontory there are the sloping bank of the Raut at circa 50 seen traces of a Thraco- m altitude. The dwelling has the name Geto-Dacian fortress, of “St. Maria” and has an altar, nave, highlighting 6 walls narthex and porch. There is a stone [no. 11a, b, c, d] and communion table in the altar. The altar

centuries BC centuries traces of a citadel [no. 13]. The oldest and nave’s vault are semi spherical and nd (10th-9th c. BC) is considered to be the that of the narthex is flat. The porch, -2 th wall from the north-eastern extremity of Monastery balcony-shaped, is disposed above Raut 10

the promontory [no. 11d] with 364.0 m waters, and to the west of the narthex in length. From a later period dates the are located the monastic cells and the wall [no. 11a] from the western extremity access stairs to the river. The older for- of the promontory that blocked the ac- tifications from the riverside have been cess to the citadel from north-west. crushed down as a result of earthquakes.

In the 7th-5th c. BC in the central centuries The present underground tunnel dates PESTERA part of the promontory were built th from 1820, when the cave monastery -19

walls [no. 11b] that protected a cita- th became the parish of the village.

The Thraco-Geto-Dacian Fortifications del of circa 70.0 x 60.0 m situated to The 15 Up the tunnel in 1890, was built a bel- the west from the actual “St. Maria” fry that frames organically into the his- Church. In the 4th-3rd c. BC the for- torical landscape of Orheiul Vechi and tress was extended and fortified from represents, at the same time, an inalien- all parts with wooden fences. In the able symbol of the cave dwelling. Near same period, in the south-eastern part the belfry there is a massive stone cross of the promontory appeared another from the 18th century. According to the wall [no. 11c] of circa 1.5 km in length legend it heals the soul and touching it that protected the economic space of and going round it leads to the fulfill- the settlement. ment of wishes. In the 4th-3rd centuries BC on the cen- The Geto-Dacian sanctuary tral part of the “Butuceni” promon- from the 4th-3rd centuries BC torytory waswas situatedsituated thethe Geto-Geto- was discovered at the level of

Dacian fortress [no.[no. 113]3]. the limestone rock and nowadays is cov- y TheThe fortificationfortification hadhad a ered with ground [no. 14]. The complex r a

prolonged oval shape is made of a stone altar with a diame- u t

with the dimensions ter of 1.3 x 2.0 m situated in the cen- c

of 215.0 x 30.0/ tral part and 21 wooden pillars placed n 60.0 m surrounded by in three concentric circles, the diameter a a wooden fence. The of the last one being 9.0 m. The dis- n S

respective traces have covered pits lead to the hypothesis that a i

thethe formform ofof a rrowow ofof ppitsits the first circle composed of three pil- c dugdug iintonto thethe rockrock thatthat werewere pre-pre- lars represented the normal weeks of a

served until present. In the eastern part, the 10 days, the second circle formed of 6 D -

access to the citadel was barred by a stone pillars signified the added weeks of 5 o t

wall and a protective moat. Inside the for- days, and finally, the third made of 12 e tress are found constructions of stone pillars indicated the months of 30 days. centuries BC century BC century blocks, made according to the Greek tech- Therefore, according to the sanctuary- rd e G rd -3 -3 nologies, and traditional dwellings with walls calendar the Gets from the citadel near h th th

The Geto-Dacian Citadel Citadel Geto-Dacian The 4 of wattle and clay. The fortress has offered ButuceniButuceni werewere usingusing a solarsolar calendarcalendar ac-ac- TheT Geto-Dacian Sanctuary 4 up numerous artefacts of Greek origin that, cordingcording toto whichwhich thethe yearyear compared to other Geto-Dacian settle- hadhad 360360 ddaysays aandnd 5 ““spir-spir- ments from the Prut-Dniestrian space, de- itual”itual” daysdays addedadded toto it.it. note intensive commercial relations with the TheThe SanctuarySanctuary fromfrom Butu-Butu- ancient world. ceniceni isis thethe oldestoldest amongamong In 1904, in the perimeter of the central forti- thethe discovereddiscovered con-con- fication was built the “St. Maria” Church that structionsstructions ofof thisthis typetype remarkably imposes itself in the historical belongingbelonging ttoo thethe Geto-Geto- and cultural landscape of Orheiul Vechi site. Dacian civilization. Peasant households from Butuceni The specific note of Orheiul village [no. 15] keep intact the ar- Vechi zone is best represent- chaic architectural forms specific ed by the architecture of the to the 19th-20th centuries. The durable and gate pillars [no. 16]. Traditionally, the defining element of the respective house- gate is made of board or twigs. Usually hold is the stone wall that delineates the it contains two sections: the big and “peasant’s universe” from the rest of the the small gates delimitated by three pil- world. The rural household is comprised lars from refined stone. The pillars are of: a house for living, basca, cellar, loznitsa, massive having sides covered with spe- mill, and other adjacent elements. The spe- cial blue paint, “albastru of Orhei”. cific architecture includes the compulsory Sculpted compositions are on their top. presence of a porch with sculpted stone The facade of the pillars is usually or- pillars, a vestibule, a bedroom and a guest’s namented with astral symbols and geo- room. The house, traditionally, is orna- metric figures. A remarkable example is mented with fabrics, embroideries, and the ornament composed from the sky’s other accessories handmade from local arcade, stellar ro-

centuries materials and natural dyes. Basca, mean- centuries settes and the solar th th ing the summer dwelling, is dug into the disc with the rays -20 rock and is provided with kitchen range, -20 th th stretching down

The Traditional Peasant House Peasant Traditional The 19 fireplace and furnace. The cellar represents The Traditional Gates 19 on the rhombus a place for storage of wine and food prod- of fertility. ucts.ucts. TThehe loznitaloznita isis a furnacefurnace toto pre-pre- parepare drieddried fruitsfruits a andnd thethe millmill toto obtainobtain flourflour andand cereals.cereals. In the perimeter of the medie- Monastery of Bosie rep- val town, the Raut’s rock shelters resents a cave monastic

about 150 cave cavities, which in complex situated at an alti- the 15th-18th centuries represented the tude of circa 25 m above the Raut wa- hermitages of the “Pestera” monastery ters [no. 18]. The holy dwelling is com- [no. 17]. The monastic dwellings are ar- posed of a church and monastic cells rayed in 10 levels at the altitude of 10- in enfilade. The church bears the name 70 m above the river spread on a sur- “St. Nicholas”. It is dug into a cave and face of about 400 m to the east of the is composed of an altar and nave. In the PESTERA monastery. Isolated grottos of recluse northern part there are two entrances centuries where in front, on a limestone platform,

th monks are highlighted. They are situat- ed in practically inaccessible places. In a porch is placed. On the church’s fa- -18

th other cases the cave complexes com- cade is engraved a Slavonian Writing: This

15 prise from 2 to 15 rooms, represent- church was built by the slave of Bosie, pircalab ing the cellars of some monastic broth- (Chief Magistrate) of Orhei, together with his erhoods. The circular spaces are distin- wife and his children, to cherish God, to

guished with a central room and other centuries forgiveforgive his sins.sins. Selevestru,Selevestru, yearyear rooms still unfinished. In two cases are th 7173 [1665]. -18

found chapels on the walls of which are th An inscription in Ro-

The Hermitages of of Hermitages The Monastery seen diverse Christian symbols, crosses Bosie of Monastery The 15 ma nian language has and Cyrillic inscriptions. preserved on the op- posing side: This in- scription was made by Vasile Andeescul and with R Razmeritseazmeritse L Lekaeka in the daysdays of ConstantinConstantin VodaVoda when the UkrainiansUkrainians win winteredtered in ,Ivancea, lead byby Stetsi Hatman, and we wintered then here in year 7198, November 20 [1689]. The hermitage of Rafail represents a cave complex situated in the south of the “Butuceni” promontory [no. 19], vis-à-vis the “St. Maria” Church, on the other bank of Raut. The holy dwelling is part of an older monas- tic complex which at the beginning of the 19th century was run by the pious Abbot Rafail. The monastic dwelling was almost totally destroyed by earthquakes, and especially by the disastrous effects of an explo- sion produced in the 20th century. At present, about 20 spaces of the her- mitage are identified, situated on 4-5

centuries levels at an altitude of 70-80 m above th the water. Inside the grottos are en- -19

th graved a number of Christian signs

The Hermitage Rafail of 15 and ancestral inscriptions. Access of tourists to this site is limited. Department of Tourism Development, Chisinau, 180, Stefan cel Mare si Sfant blvd. tel.: +(373-22) 210774, fax: +(373-22) 295809, e-mail: [email protected], web: www.turism.md

Museum Complex „Orheiul Vechi” tel.: +(373-235) 56042 • Excursions • Exhibitions

The Center for Archaeological Research from the Republic of Moldova: The Cultural-Scientific and Tourist Center „Orheiul Vechi” tel.: +(373-235) 56137, e-mail: [email protected] • Archaeological researches • Creative camps • Summer schools • Scientific tourism

House of handicrafts: • Feodosia Roscovan, tel.: +(373-235) 56054

Tourist rural pensions: • Mihai Benzin, Trebujeni v., tel.: +(373-235) 56044 • Ludmila Buzila, Trebujeni v., tel.: +(373-235) 56099 • Galina Buzila, Trebujeni v., tel.: +(373-235)56097 • Maria Stamati, Trebujeni v., tel.: +(373-235) 56054 • Ion Doncila, Butuceni v., tel.: +(373-235) 56091 Services:  Accommodation, complete pension, national cuisine, ecologically pure products  Additional activities: ethno-folkloric performances, boat trips, horse riding, participation at agricultural, artisan and handicraft works