Tasar VCA-West Bengal

Tasar Value Chain Analysis West Bengal

Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP) Central Silk Board (CSB) & Professional Assistance for Developmen Action (PRADAN)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

89 TASAR VALUE CHAIN STUDY

WEST BENGAL

MAHILA KISAN SASHAKTIKARAN PARIYOJANA – MKSP

CENTRAL SILK BOARD – CSB & Professional Assistance for Development Action (PRADAN)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table of Contents

Chapter Chapter title Page number number Foreword 5 Executive Summary 6 1 Introduction 10 2 Methodology 15 3 Cocoon Production 16 4 Yarn Conversion 55 5 Value Chain Analysis 95 6 Conclusion & Recommendations 110 References 112 Acknowledgements 113 List of Respondents 114

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Foreword

It is heartening to note that tasar culture is drawing attention from various stakeholders in recent times, with its potential to achieve many of the Sustainable Development Goals (SDG) defined by the United Nations, leading to the creation of sustainable livelihood opportunities. One such major convergence initiative is a project under Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)-NTFP for the ‘Promotion of Large Scale Tasar Sericulture-based Livelihoods in the state of West Bengal’ coordinated by the Central Silk Board (CSB), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India and co-funded by the Ministry of Rural Development, Government of India, and implemented by the NGO, Professional Assistance for Development Action (PRADAN) since October 2013.

The ‘Silk Value Chain’ concept considers the manner in which value is added along the chain, both to the product/service and the actors involved. From a sustainability perspective, ‘Silk Value Chain’ has more appeal, since it explicitly refers to internal and external stakeholders in the value-creation process viz., production, processing and marketing along with linkages amongst different nodes of the value chain. Further, developing a state-wise Value Chain Analysis (VCA) of the tasar sub- sector and devising an action plan for a suitable role of the intervening organisation across the major tasar states will help towards sustenance of the value chain players and activities.

I am happy that the much awaited silk value chain analysis studies have been taken up under these projects, which will bring out constraints and opportunities faced by the various stakeholders placed at different location/nodes of the chain to review current policies, identify limitations and barriers with focus on subsidies and pricing and suggest possible areas of convergence and the need for advocacy to facilitate the tasar sub-sector.

I appreciate the efforts of Dr. K. Sathyanarayana, Scientist-D & Project Coordinator, CSB, and Mr. Mohd. Shamshad Alam, Integrator-Tasar, PRADAN, in coordinating the study and bringing out this publication, ‘Tasar Value Chain Analysis: West Bengal’. I also thank Mr. Soumik Banerjee who carried out the study and all the partners for their cooperation during the study. I strongly hope that this document will help the state government to review current policies and strengthen the areas of convergence towards the socio-economic upliftment of the participating families in the tasar sector.

I extend my best wishes for the successful implementation of the tasar projects for the benefit of the tribal communities of India.

Dr. H. Nagesh Prabhu, I.F.S Member Secretary Central Silk Board

Place: Bangalore Date: 01.05.2017

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Executive summary

The present study, a Value Chain Analysis (VCA) of the tasar sub-sector for the state of West Bengal, aims to illustrate the current state of cocoon and yarn production systems and the state of the value chain in principle clusters. It also aims to understand the scope and limitations towards developing a robust action plan for the ongoing project, Promotion of Large- Scale Tasar Sericulture-based Livelihoods in West Bengal under the Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP), a subcomponent of the National Rural Livelihood Mission (NRLM), The Ministry of Rural Development, Government of India.

The study was conducted in the principal tasar clusters of Bankura, Paschim Medinipur and Birbhum districts with a focus on Bankura district, along with the adjoining weaving clusters.

The study combined field surveys to gather primary data for analysis and a review of secondary literature to gain an understanding of the sub-sector. The surveys took the form of discussions and interviews with key informants and resource persons, visits to villages, rearing plots, grainages, cooperative societies, village markets, weaver clusters, outlets, export houses, resource institutions, experts, practitioners and processing units.

Based on the data, a Value Chain Analysis, including mapping of the tasar sub-sector and the activities of various actors, was carried out to determine the value that was added at different levels of the tasar sericulture process, and the margins that accrued to different actors. A Price Spread Analysis was conducted, starting from the rearer of basic DFLs (disease-free layings) to the production of reeled yarn. Constraint and SWOT analyses of the tasar sub-sector were conducted. At the end, based on the analysis and assessments, certain broad interventions have been suggested for the implementing organisation.

The study was commissioned by Central Silk Board (CSB), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, Ministry of Rural Development, Government of India, and the MKSP Project Field Implementing Agency, Professional Assistance for Development Action (PRADAN).

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Key findings

The key findings of the Value Chain Analysis are shown in Table E1 below.

Families engaged in tasar livelihoods 21,145 (2015-16) Average production of tasar raw silk 34 MT (2015-16) Principal production clusters Bankura, Purulia, Paschim Medinipur Eco-races Daba (Trivoltine and bivoltine) Plantations Bankura 6,715 ac; Purulia 5,672 ac, Paschim Medinipur 2,261 ac, PRADAN 34 ha Basic DFLs CWDS 11,300; KVIC-Jhargram 3, 950; PRADAN 23,752 Seed rearers Bankura 1,566; Paschim Medinipur 50 PRADAN 186 ; CWDS 11 groups; KVIC Jhargram 25 groups Seed cocoon production CWDS 3,95,616; KVIC-Jhargram 1,03,460; PRADAN 6,61,374 Basic DFL: Seed cocoon 1:19, 1:34 (TV 1 and 2), PRADAN 1:28 Commercial private grainage Bankura 31; Paschim Medinipur 8 CWDS 7; PRADAN 39; KVIC 1 Commercial DFLs Bankura 4,17,000; Paschim Medinipur 93,000 CWDS23,330; PRADAN 1,03,529 ; KVIC 18,700 Commercial rearers Bankura 5 220; Paschim Medinipur 500 CWDS 12 groups; PRADAN 1,173 ; KVIC 197 Commercial cocoons Bankura 2.45 crore; Paschim Medinipur 0.54 crore CWDS 6.07 lakh; PRADAN 66.08 lakh; KVIC 7.71 lakh Commercial DFL: Cocoon ratio 1:45 (TV 3), PRADAN 1:40 Mean lifting price BV cocoons Rs 2.43 to Rs 3.10 per piece; TV cocoons Rs 2.10 to Rs 2 per piece Cocoon to yarn conversion 1,588 cocoons produce 1 kg of reeled yarn and 485 gm of Latha No. 2 550 unreelable cocoons produce 386 gm of Latha No. 1 with 262 gm converted into 210 gm of Kete Suta-1 The process generates 48 gm of silk waste and 501 gm of peduncle Families engaged in post-cocoon activities 3,830 Reelers and spinners in principal weaving clusters Bishnupur 800 to 1,000; Gopiballabpur 300; Tantipara 500 to 600 Yarn produced in principal weaving clusters Reeled yarn: Bishnupur 30 MT; Gopiballabpur 9 MT; Tantipara 12 MT Spun yarn: Bishnupur 15 MT; Gopiballabpur 3.6 MT; Tantipara 7.2 MT Yardage in principal weaving clusters Bishnupur 6,750 m; Sonamukhi 180,000 m; Gopiballabpur 8,100 m and Tantipara 400,000 m Price of yarn Reeled Rs 4,000/ kg; Kete Suta 1 Rs 2,800/kg; Kete Suta 2 Rs 2,500/kg; Katia Rs 1,400 to Rs 2,200/kg; Ghicha and peduncle Rs 900/kg Wage rate of reelers, etc. Reelers Rs 82; Latha spinners Rs 100; Katia spinners Rs 63; Takli spinners Rs 17; Latha-Katia spinners Rs 37; Ghicha and waste spinners Rs 11 Major markets Mostly converted to fabrics. Local and Kolkata Value chain: Pre-cocoon Rearing absorbs 78% of the value produced by pre-cocoon activities; inputs 11% and assembling and marketing 11% Net margin: Pre-cocoon 92% of the net margin at this stage accrues to commercial rearers, 7% to seed rearers and less than 1 per cent to graineurs Value added: Pre-cocoon 1 (2 gm) Basic DFL when reared yields 18 TV-1 seed cocoons at 85% hatching. This, when processed at the grainage, yields 4.5 (9 gm) TV-2 DFLs. Upon further rearing, this yields 133 TV-2 seed cocoons at 80% hatching. On further processing at the grainage, this yields 44 Commercial DFLs out of which 1,588 (80%) reelable cocoons are produced at 80% hatching. The process also yields 417 unreelable cocoons, 133 pierced cocoons and 501 gm of peduncle, all of which is processed into spun yarn as by- products.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Value chain: Post-cocoon 78% of the value produced by post-cocoon activities is absorbed by input-related activities; processing takes up 18% and assembling and marketing take up 4% Net margin: Post-cocoon 81% of the net margin goes to reelers, 6% to spinners and 13% to Takli spinners Value added: Post-cocoon The 1,588 cocoons obtained are reeled into 1 kg yarn, generating 485 gm of Latha-2. The 550 unreelable cocoons are spun into 386 gm of Latha-1 out of which 262 gm is further spun into 210 gm of Kete Suta -1. 48 gm of silk waste is produced from spinning, along with 501 gm of peduncle. Apart from this, 1,588 pieces of pupa are also sold. Employment generated per actor for 100 kg of 4,799 to 6,947 person days of employment (1,440 to 2,028 person days reeled yarn as per minimum wages of Rs 222 per day for unskilled work) are generated with 45-66% going to cocoon production and the remaining to yarn conversion.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Suggested interventions

Based on the findings, analysis and observations, the following interventions are suggested. See Table E2.

Pre-Cocoon Post Cocoon  Produce quality DFLs through seed zones  Setting up raw material banks  Strengthen Pilot Project Centres (PPCs), Basic Seed  Setting up yarn banks to ease the availability of yarn Production Units (BSPUs) and decentralised  Machines for reeling and spinning based on the weavers’ grainages needs and the market  Protect existing forest cover  Training, capacity building and exposure on new  Increase host plant plantations to fill the gaps in the technologies and best practices forest cover  Incentivise tasar yarn production  Make available user-friendly tools and technology  Develop Hub-Spoke model on Loom-Ready tasar in pebrine detection, apart from strengthening  Stress the production of high-quality reeled yarn that can existing microscopy compete with Chinese yarn  Create empowered community organisations  Utilise process waste to increase the remuneration for  Recruit staff in the Department of Sericulture and reelers other allied departments  Value addition and development of a range of designs  Minimum Support Price (MSP) on commercial  Vegetable-dyeing and blending cocoons  Strengthen existing community institutions, especially  Cocoon procurement based on shell weight self-help groups  Infrastructure for cocoon storage, grainage, etc.  Participatory Guarantee Systems for genuine, organic,  Supportive policies on habitat conservation handmade silk  Convergence and collaboration with existing  Put in place supportive policies and incentives for programs of Mahatma Gandhi National Rural enterprises Employee Guarantee Act (MGNREGA) and the  Increase outreach and service delivery of welfare schemes Forest Department  Upgrade skills so that youth are motivated  Demonstrate emerging new technology in post-cocoon activities

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

1. Introduction

1.1 Value chain analysis background

The term Value Chain Analysis (VCA) refers to the group of economic agents (or the relevant activities of those agents) who contribute directly to the production, then to the transformation and delivery to the final market of a single agriculture product, in this case tasar.

Thus the chain encompasses the complete sequence of operations which, starting from the raw material, or an intermediate product, finishes downstream after several stages of transformation or increases in value, at one or several final products at the level of the consumer.

Value Chain Analysis is a concept of business management that was popularised by Michel Porter in 1985. Products pass through all activities of the chain in order, and at each activity the product gains some value. The chain of activities gives the products more added value than the sum of added values of all activities. The primary activities for commodity value chains include input logistics, operations (production), outbound logistics, marketing and sales and services. The support activities include administrative infrastructure, management, human resource management, technology, and procurement. The costs and value drivers are identified for each value activity. This is depicted in Fig 1.1

Fig-1.1- Value Chain Analysis

The dominant idea behind the economic analysis of commodity chains is to lay out the overall activities of all the participants, or agents, who contribute to the production and/or transformation of a given commodity. This involves: • Identifying the outline of the chain and the position of the various agents within it; and

• Developing the economic accounts corresponding to the activities of the agents involved in the chain.

This reduction of activities and operations to their monetary value makes this economic technique a powerful tool of analysis. It allows the use of commodity chain analysis to produce properly quantified and significant results, calculations at new levels of aggregation, sensitivity and simulation analyses, and interpretation of these results at the macroeconomic level.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

It has four interconnected steps (Fig 1.2): Data collection and research, value chain mapping, analysis of opportunities and constraints, and vetting of findings with stakeholders and recommendations for future actions.

Fig 1.2- Steps in Value Chain Mapping

 Collection of data: This includes two parts: Desk research (secondary literature, web-based research, earlier studies and policy documents, etc.) and field research (interviews, focused group discussions with stakeholder groups, observation of key processes of different stakeholders with suitable case studies).  Value chain mapping: Value chain mapping is the process of visually depicting the basic structure of the value chain. A value chain map illustrates the way the product flows from raw material to end markets and presents how the activity functions. It is a compressed visual diagram of the data collected at different stages of the value chain analysis and supports the narrative description of the chain.  SWOT analysis: This uses the value chain framework as a lens through which the gathered data is analysed. The framework is a useful tool to identify systemic chain-level issues rather than activity-level problems. While interviews gather information from individual stakeholders, the value chain framework helps to organise this information in such a way that the analysis moves from a stakeholder-level to a chain-level perspective. Using a table format, these factors of the value chain framework can be evaluated in terms of offering opportunities for upgrading and the constraints in taking advantage of these opportunities.  Vetting findings: This uses value chain analysis through a structured event of presentation of reports to facilitate discussion with and among selected stakeholders. The event should include facilitated discussions, review and adjustments of the value chain map, and a review of the SWOT analysis table, besides developing an action plan for the organisation implementing the programme.

The present study is aimed at developing a Value Chain Analysis (VCA) of the tasar sub-sector and at devising an action plan, with roles and responsibilities, of the organisation implementing the programme in the state of West Bengal.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The major objectives of the study are to:

 Develop a Value Chain Map for the tasar sub-sector in West Bengal, with the primary focus until the stage of yarn conversion, with strategic suggestions for the remaining nodes of the value chain;  Identify the major stakeholders and develop a cost analysis in the entire value chain in terms of production, processing and marketing, along with linkages among different nodes of the value chain;  Understand the context of the stakeholders and the production status in the tasar sub-sector;  Identify the constraints and opportunities faced by various stakeholders at different locations/nodes of the chain;  Review current policies, identify limitations and barriers with a focus on subsidies and pricing, and suggest possible areas of convergence and advocacy to facilitate the sub-sector;  Review the role and limitations of existing institutions and identify possible partnerships towards convergence;  Identify factors that strengthen community institutions towards reinvestment and the creation of a corpus;  Identify integration with other existing livelihood programmes and contribute towards the overall well-being of the families; and  Identify scope and intervention areas based on ground realities.

1.2 Silk and tasar

Silk is a natural protein fibre composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larva to form cocoons. Silk is produced from a number of insects but only the silk produced by the larva of the silk moth has been used for textile manufacturing. Silk is named in legends, fables and folklore and its superiority has been recognised since time immemorial; its luxurious look, softness and luster have given it the epithet of the “queen of fibres.”

The silk fabric was developed in ancient China; the earliest example is from 3630 BCE where it was used as wrapping for the body of a child in Xingyan in the Henah province. Legend goes that the 14-year-old Chinese Empress Lei-Tzu (2640 BCE), known as the “goddess of silkworms,” was once sitting under a mulberry tree in the imperial garden, when a cocoon fell in her hot cup of tea, softened, and unwound a glistening thread. Silks were originally reserved for the Emperors of China, but spread gradually throughout Chinese culture and trade, both geographically and socially into many regions of Asia.

Archaeological discoveries in Harappa and Chanhu-daro show that silk from wild species were in use in India during the Indus Valley Civilization (2450-2000 BCE). It is suggested that Harappans either harvested wild silkworm cocoons or traded with people who did and had extensive knowledge on silk.

Currently India is the second largest producer of silk in the world, after China. The International Sericulture Commission states that in 2013, 1.59 lakh MT of raw silk was globally produced, with China contributing 81% and India’s 17% (26,538 MT). Between 2008 and 2013, raw silk production in India increased at about 6% annually. Silk export earnings in 2013-14 were Rs 2,481 crore (60% from fabrics). The silk industry provides employment to over 7.85 million people in 51,000 villages across the country.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Natural silks are classified into mulberry and non-mulberry. Non-mulberry silks are primarily known as Vanya or wild silks, primarily comprising tasar (tropical and temperate), muga, eri and anaphe. Tasar takes 10% share of the total raw silk produced in India and has shown an impressive growth of more than four times since 2008-09. Table 1.1 shows the details of tasar production (MT) in principal states and the trends of growth.

Table 1.1 below shows the details of tasar production (in MT) in principal states and the trends of growth:

State 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11 2011-12 2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 Andhra Pradesh 13 10 4 1.33 0.64 0.46 NA NA Bihar 16 27 30 29.4 7.3 32 32.95 41 Chhattisgarh 147 161 168 293.8 384.9 384 225.39 254 Jharkhand 296 404 766 1,025.2 1,088.3 2,000 1,943.30 2,281 Madhya Pradesh 30.1 74 79.2 79.2 83 86 59 56 Maharashtra 4.2 8 12.3 12.3 9.75 10 18.97 21.50 Odisha 57 71 89.7 89.7 95 45 88.30 107 Uttar Pradesh 4.1 6 10.8 10.8 12.3 14 18.04 20.23 West Bengal 31.2 37 43.9 43.9 43.8 42 43.05 34 Total 598.6 798 1,203.9 1,585.7 1,724.9 2,613.46 2,429 2,814 Source: Central Tasar Research & Training Institute (CTR&TI), Ranchi; MIS quarterly reports of Departments of Sericulture NA: Not available

Minor amounts of temperate (oak) tasar are also produced in Arunachal Pradesh, Manipur, Mizoram, Nagaland and Uttarakhand.

A belt of humid dense deciduous sal forests, sprawling over the central and eastern plateaus at an elevation of about 600 m covering 7.7 million ha, is the traditional home of tasar, primarily in the states of Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, Bihar and West Bengal.

Tasar silk is secreted by several species of the genus Antheraea; India has eight species, out of which Antheraea mylitta D has been commercially exploited and is the chief producer of tasar silk. It exists in the form of 20 ecoraces of uni, bi and trivoltine nature. Tasar filaments have a golden lustre and are coarser, stronger and shorter than mulberry silk.

Jharkhand has 81% of the total share with a production of 2,281 MT; the state has shown an impressive growth of more than six-fold from around 300 MT in 2008-09. Chhattisgarh is a distant second at 254 MT, with 9% share, followed by Odisha. West Bengal is in the 6th position in terms of tasar production, with raw silk production of 34 MT in 2015-16.

Even though production has greatly increased, demand still outstrips supply by about 5,000 MT, which is primarily obtained from China.

Tasar rearing is one of the traditional supplementary livelihoods of indigenous communities in Jharkhand, Bihar, Chhattisgarh, Odisha and West Bengal.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

1.3 Area profile

West Bengal is the fourth most populous state in India, with over 91.3 million inhabitants and an area of 88,752 sq. km. It is bordered by the countries of Bangladesh, Bhutan and Nepal, and the Indian states of Assam, Bihar, Jharkhand, Odisha and Sikkim. West Bengal is the sixth largest contributor to India’s GDP and is a major agricultural producer. West Bengal stretches from the Himalayas in the north to the Bay of Bengal in the south. The Darjeeling Himalayan region in the north is a part of the Eastern Himalayas, followed by a small stretch of the Terai into the north Bengal plains to the Gangetic plains in the middle and the south. Sundarban mangroves in the south mark the coastal area. The Rarh region (the traditional tasar belt) lies between the Gangetic delta in the east and the western plateau and highlands. The Ganges is the main river with numerous tributaries such as the Teesta, Torsa, Jaldakha and the Mahananda in the north and the Damodar, Kangsabati, Ajay, etc. in the west. The climate varies from tropical savanna in the southern portions to humid sub-tropical in the north.

The plain areas have characteristic summer temperatures reaching 38 to 45 degrees celsius in summer and 15 degrees in winter. From June to September are monsoon months, with rains ranging from 4,000 mm in the hills to 1,250 mm in the western part of the state.

West Bengal has 20 districts and three divisions with a literacy rate of 77% and a sex ratio of 947. About 5% of the population constitutes Scheduled Tribes and 19% are Scheduled Castes. Agriculture is the leading occupation of the state with rice being the main crop. Other important crops are potato, jute, sugarcane and wheat.

Table 1.2 shows the details

Area Population Divisions Districts Blocks Panchayats Villages 88,752 sq. km. 91.3 million 3 20 342 3,354 37,164

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

2. Methodology

Due to the nature of the study, instead of structured formats, qualitative and quantitative investigative tools with checklists for different stakeholders were used. These provided meaningful insights into how the rearers, graineurs, traders, reelers, weavers and service providers look at the issues and deal with specific solutions.

Table 2.1 shows the different stakeholders visited and interviewed during the study Stakeholders Location details Tasar rearers and CBOs Serensokra and Arlo (Ranibandh, Bankura), Baroghutu (Khatra, Bankura), Susnijibi (Binpur 2, Paschim Medinipur) and Tetla (Sankrail, Paschim Medinipur) Plantations Arlo, Susnijibi, Baroghutu,Tetla Traders Bhulabheda Panchayat – Binpur -2, Paschim Medinipur Weaver clusters Bishnupur, Sonamukhi (Bankura district), Gopiballabpur, Jhargram (Paschim Medinipur district), Tantipara and Bolpur (Birbhum district) Spinning mill Starling Silk Ltd: Sujapur, Maldah Institutions, NGOs and Basic Seed Multiplication and Training Centres (BSM&TC) – Patelnagar (Birbhum district), Research government Extension Unit (REU) – Taldangra (Bankura district), Directorate of Sericulture (DoS) – Kolkata, DoS – departments Bankura and Medinipur, DoS – Khatra, Training and Service Centre – Bishnupur, DCSTS – Suiri and Raw Material Bank (RMB) – Tantipara (Birbhum district), Silk Conditioning and Testing House (SCTH) – Maldah, Khadi Village Industries Commission (KVIC) – Jhargram, Nari Vikas – Baroghutu, PRADAN – Bankura and Paschim Medinipur

Key informant interviews, focused group discussions (FGD) and validation (farmers), observations and assessments with semi- structured probing guidelines and checklists were the key tools used. Along with this, secondary data was collected from previous studies, books and resource organisations.

Plate 2.1- Visiting the tasar plantation at Arlo, Ranibandh block, Bankura

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

3. Cocoon Production

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

3.1 Background and history

West Bengal is the 6th largest producer of tasar in the country, contributing 34 MT of tasar raw silk production (2015-16). Production of raw silk has increased by 30% in the past five years. Tasar rearing has historically been an important traditional occupation among indigenous communities, primarily in western districts such as Bankura, Paschim Medinipur and Purulia that share a border with Jharkhand. These districts produce 96% of the cocoons and the remaining are produced in Birbhum and

Bardhaman districts, as shown in Fig 3.1. Fig 3.1- Tasar growing areas, West Bengal

As of April 2014, 16,464 families are engaged in tasar rearing across 476 villages, producing 42.19 million cocoons.

Tasar has historically been reared in the forests of Bengal by and has provided supplementary livelihoods to indigenous communities (Santhals, Paharias, Kols, Oraons, Cheros, Kherwars as well as Bagdis, Bowris, Tewirs, Bhuiyas, Bhogtas, Samatas, Chamars, Dosads, Koormees and Gowalas). The earliest accounts of its rearing are provided by Dr Buchanan Hamilton in 1810 in Dinagepur (now Dinajpur). In 1836, Charles Blechynden, the superintendent of the Radhanagore Silk Factory in Medinipur (now Paschim Medinipur), gave a valuable account in the Journal of Agri-Horticultiral Society of India. Homfray had written on the collection of tasar cocoons from the Sundarbans (now North and South 24 Parganas). A report from the Bengal Government in 1877 stated that tasar was reared in the forests of Bankura, West Medinipur and parts of Manbhum (now Purulia), apart from other regions falling in present-day Jharkhand and Odisha. It was reported that tasar was found throughout all tree and scrub jungles lying south and west of the Gangetic alluvial plains.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

3.2 Races and traditional rearing practices

Currently Daba (Antherea mylitta D) is the only eco-race being reared in the state; primarily Trivoltine (TV) Daba is the dominant variety.

The Handbook of Agriculture by N.G. Mukherji (1915) mentions the three main classes as Narya, Daba and Bugui. The Narya is obtained from small wild cocoons. Summer cocoons are obtained in June from the wild or domesticated Dhuria. From these, Ampatia or flimsy cocoons are obtained in July-August. Further on, from these, the regular crop called the Barsati is obtained in October. A Jaddui or winter crop of Narya is also sometimes obtained, which takes three months.

The Daba has probably originated from Muda-Muga cocoons, which are large wild cocoons that do not emerge in August- September; they are formed in June-July the following year. In September-October, the large unemerged cocoons are collected and kept as seed till June the following year. These subsequently yield the Ampatia and Barsati crops of Daba. Some of the hardest Barsati crop is reserved for seed till June the following year. Thus, the domestic breed is propagated till diseases appear and then the rearers resort to the wild stock.

The Bugui originates from a large-sized wild cocoon called Bar-Ra out of which moths emerge in September, further yielding a single crop in November-December. Bugui is univoltine, Daba is bi-voltine (Ampatia & Barsati) and Narya is trivoltine (Ampatia, Barsati & Jaddui); the cocoons obtained from October-January are the best and those from July-September are the worst (Table 3.1).

Race Wild parent Emergence Season-1 Season-2 Season-3 Remarks Daba Mud-Muga May-June Ampatia/Dhuria Barsati --- Best cocoons are stored as seed (June-July) (November- for the coming year December) Narya Wild Narya May-June Ampatia/Dhuria Barsati Jaddui Seeds collected from the wild (June-July) (October) (January) Bugui Bar-Ra/Muga October Bugui -- -- Seeds collected from the wild (February- March)

The Bengal District Gazetteers for Burdwan (now Bardhaman) by J.C.K. Paterson (1910) mentions four types of cocoons: Daba, which was of the best quality (1.5 gm yarn/cocoon; Rs 11.50/kahan) originating from Chaibasa, Singhbhum; Bagai also from Singhbhum (1.02 gm yarn/cocoon; Rs 8.40/kahan); Mugo from Hazaribagh (0.97 gm yarn/cocoon; Rs 7.75/cocoon) and Jaidui or winter cocoon (0.54 gm yarn/cocoon; Rs 4/kahan).

Table 3.2 shows the salient features of the races found in the area.

Eco-race Peduncle Cocoon Cocoon Pupal Shell Silk ratio Filament Denier length volume weight weight weight length cm cc gm gm gm % m Narya 4.5 16.20 7.32 6.38 0.94 12.84 895 9 Daba 4.7 30.40 11.16 9.96 1.20 10.75 737 10 Bugui 5.5 19.20 9.42 7.97 1.45 16.34 895 9 Source - Jolly et al, Non Mulberry Silks, FAO

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

In the traditional practice, the first wild cocoons would be collected from the Asan (Terminalia tomentosa) trees scattered across the forests (each rearer would collect 20 to 30 such cocoons) in June-July. As soon as the moths emerge, the females would couple with either the emerged male moths or with wild ones. The eggs would be immediately collected in baskets, trays, pots or on tufts of grass and when the worms emerged in about eight days, they would be placed on the Asan or Sal (Shorea robusta) trees. Further, the larvae would be moved from tree to tree as they ate through the foliage; the larvae would also be protected from birds and insects. Branches would be cut and placed against each other for easy movement of larvae. After five moults and about 50 days, cocoon spinning would commence. Predators and pests would be warded off using slingshots, sticky traps, and bows and arrows, while a ring of Bhelwa (Semacarpus anacardium) oil on the trunk of the host tree would keep away ants due to its corrosive nature. The whole process was governed by a belief in ceremonial ‘purity’ and women were universally excluded from tasar rearing. The cocoons, once harvested, would be boiled and sold to traders.

In Medinipur district it was reported in 1872 that cocoons for seed were purchased in December and January, and hung in a pot for four months, till the middle of April, when some moths emerged. These moths were kept for a fortnight in another pot where they laid eggs. The eggs were then placed on Sal leaf cups and after hatching, on host trees, the report stated.

Rearers in Ranibandh (Bankura) and Binpur (Paschim Medinipur) reported that about 40 years ago, they would bring good quality wild cocoons (probably Narya) from the Chakulia forests in Jharkhand. The cocoons would be hung from bamboo rings and as moths emerged and coupling occurred, the female moths would be placed on Ghong pata (Bahunia vahilli) packets for them to lay eggs. After the eggs were laid, they would be disinfected with turmeric and kept in earthen pots for hatching. Only one crop (commercial) would be obtained and each rearer would get 5-8 kahan (6,500 to 10,000 cocoons) in a season, which would sometimes drop to as low as 6-8 pons (500 to 650 cocoons). Slingshots and sticky traps would be used to deter birds and insects from attacking the worms. Women were strictly prohibited from taking part in rearing.

In the Katwa subdivision of Burdwan (now Bardhaman) district, Radhicananda Ray of Amdanga, an officer in the employ of Nawab Nazim, had made arrangements for tasar cocoon rearing, spinning and weaving. About 500 families across 13 villages were engaged in tasar-based livelihoods. In Kalna, cocoons were grown along the banks of the river. In Medinipur, cocoons were reared in the jungles of Gogooi, Mooga, Sildha and Ramgaon.

In the Sundarbans, tasar was reared on Kul (Zizhyphus mauritina) trees with a life cycle of 50 days till cocoon spinning. This was sold at Rs 3 to Rs 5 per kahan in 1836 and even 320 cocoons could produce enough silk to manufacture a pair of dhotis priced at Rs 4 to Rs 5 a piece. Rearers could make between Rs 10 and Rs 30 in a season (2.5 to 7.5 kahan).

Zamindars would levy a cess on tasar-rearing amounting to Rs 0.50 to 0.75 per head for cocoon collection in Medinipur, and Re 1 per head in Sundarbans; however in Bankura, there was no cess. Rearers seldom dealt directly with the weavers, but received advances from the baniyas/pykars or mahajans (traders) in the form of cash, rice, salt or cloth. After the collection of cocoons, the price would be settled and the advances accordingly adjusted. The traders would make these cocoons further available to local weavers or sell them to distant markets. The pykars of Anandapur and Keshiray (Medinipur district) traded in cocoons and offered them to weavers.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

In 1877, the price varied across locations with Rs 6 to Rs 10 per kahan (1,280 cocoons) in Medinipur, and Rs 3 to Rs 8 per kahan in Birbhum. Weavers in Bankura obtained cocoons at Rs 6 to Rs 7 per kahan. The Ampatia usually fetched the lowest price while the cocoons used as seed for the Barsati crop would be priced at Rs 6 per kahan.

Even though there were large tasar-processing centres in Bankura (Bishnupur, Sonamukhi), Medinipur (Ghatal, Sudder), Manbhum (Purulia, Raghunathpur), Birbhum (Tantipara, Kuddea) and Bardhaman (Mankor, Memari), most of the cocoons were sourced from Singhbhum and Santhal Parganas districts (now in Jharkhand).

3.3 Host plants

Asan (Terminalia tomentosa) is the primary host plant for tasar-rearing in this region. The Asan is a large deciduous tree with a clean bole and full crown. It is one of the most common Indian forest trees and attains a girth of 12 ft (3.65 m) or more and heights above 100 feet (30.4 m) in favourable clayey soils; but is stunted in dry rocky ground and other unfavorable conditions. It is usually found in the Sal (Shorea robusta) forests along with other associates of Lagerstroemia parviflora, Terminalia bellirica (bahera), Adina cardifolia (Haldu), etc. Asan is an important companion species in the dry peninsular Sal forests in the south- western Bengal tasar-rearing tracts.

In tasar-rearing fields, the Asan is extensively pollarded; the species requires light and is suppressed in shade. Medium-sized trees coppice and pollard well, but the coppicing power of trees with girth above 4 feet (1.22 m) is poor. Coppicing of shoots is high in April and May as compared to the months between July and September. Seventy per cent of the trees show coppice shoots of 1 to 9 per stool.

Natural reproduction occurs in an abundance of light, a fair degree of soil moisture, bare ground, and loose soil without sodden grass or weeds. Plantations can be established by directly sowing seeds, though transplanting from the nursery improves chances of survival and growth.

Apart from the Asan, the Sal is a primary host plant on which worms are reared in advanced stages when the Asan is not available. Cocoons reared on Sal trees show a characteristic blackish appearance.

Most rearing takes place in forest lands on Asan patches called Ara Pahi/Badi, with each rearer having 400 to 500 trees. Besides this, Sal, Dhaura (Anogeissus latifolia) and Siddhe (Lagestromia parviflora) are also used as secondary hosts. No pruning or pollarding of the host trees could be carried out in Ranibandh block (Bankura district) or Binpur block (Paschim Medinipur district) due to objections from the Forest Protection Committees and forest guards.

Even though rearers were given a pruning saw and secateurs, they could use the tools only for cocoon harvesting due to restrictions and conflicts with the forest officials. Rearers in Arlo and Serensokra (Ranibandh district) reported a gall infection due to Trioza fletcheri in the leaves, which was treated by spraying Dimethoate (2 ml/l). This was possible since the Tasar Vikas Samitis (TVS) had been equipped with Gator Sprayers and 250 ml of Dimethoate (Rogor) under MKSP. Rearers also reported that drought conditions had resulted in poor leaf yield in the host trees.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Shivdurga TVS of village Sushnijubi (Binpur-2 block, Paschim Medinipur district) reported that they had to carry out seed rearing 40km away in Purulia district, due to a heavy attack of wasps (Vespa orientalis) during this period (June-July) on the few patches where rearing is usually done. The attacks were fewer and more scattered during the commercial rearing season from September to December. However, the move to Purulia resulted in a heavy additional cost of Rs 20,000 on lease rent for 1,050 DFLs, as well as transport and accommodation for 12-13 women rearers.

Rearers also reported that spraying with urea was done to improve foliage (250 gm/16 l), along with basal application of 250 g NPK (10: 26: 36) per plant under MKSP.

As of March 2015, the total area under tasar plantation in West Bengal was 16,997.96 acres. Most plantations had been established since 1988 under various programmes of the Inter State Tasar Programme (ISTP), International Labor Organisation (ILO), Catalytic Development Programme (CDP), United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) as well as by the panchayats and the Forest Department.

Table 3.3 shows the district-wise details of tasar host plantations as on March 2015.

District Plantation area (acres) Paschim Medinipur 2,261.31 Purulia 5,671.73 Bankura 6,715 Bardhaman 9,34.8 Birbhum 1,405.15 Total 16,997.96

Under the Special Scheme which is entirely supported by the government of West Bengal, each rearer is supposed to get NPK worth Rs 1,250, urea worth Rs 200, vermicompost for Rs 1,000, Jeevan Sudha for Rs 500 and Rs 1,000 for cleaning and mulching, totaling Rs 4,000. Under the General Plan, there are allocations for sapling purchase and plantation maintenance in the new plantation areas. Under the Catalytic Development Program (CDP), assistance is provided to new rearers on land development, planting materials, inputs for augmentation of host plants with a unit cost of Rs 12,000, with 80% subsidy.

The Centre for Women’s Development Studies (CWDS) – Naribikash has been one of the pioneer agencies in tasar plantation in private lands since 1981.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 3.4 shows the plantations of 630 acres done in different villages in Bankura and Purulia districts.

Village Year of plantation Acres Jhilimil, Bankura 1981 26 Bhurkura, Bankura 1981 18 Boroghutu, Bankura 1985 81 Ramgarh, Bankura 1987 16.65 Kumarpara, Bankura 1987 16.28 Harangar, Bankura 1987 16.64 Dhagra, Bankura 1987 18.39 Dhobani, Bankura 1987 21 Peripathor, Bankura 1987 12 Kadambera, Bankura 1988 12.34 Batikor, Bankura 1988 24.74 Pakuria, Bankura 1990 44.40 Tamakhun, Bankura 1992 13.42 Ramjibanpur, Bankura 1996 6.59 Kadamgarh, Bankura 1997 20 Pirolgari, Bankura 1999 26 Dabri, Bankura 2002 36 Pali, Bankura 2003 18.71 Tetla, Purulia 1988 57.05 Shurigora, Purulia 1991 91.98 Loto, Purulia 1991 24.33 Sriramghutu, Purulia 1992 28.71 TOTAL 630.23

The Baroghutu Gramin Mahila Sramik Unnayan Samiti, a conglomeration of 21 community based organisations, is actively engaged in tasar-rearing on 600 acres of Arjuna plantations (about 1.5 million Arjuna trees), facilitated and supported by CWDS.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

In 1984, 84 acres of Arjuna (Terminalia arjuna) and Asan plantations were developed on revenue lands in Baroghutu village in Khatra block of Bankura district, under ILO support. The Baroghutu Gramin Mahila Sramik Unnayan Samiti had carried out the implementation, again supported by CWDS. The mountainous patch was full of boulders and the Directorate of Sericulture (DoS) officials had expressed that plantation in the area was impossible. The Forest Department had also claimed the area under a dam resettlement, but the Samiti fought back to develop the plantations. By 1987-88, tasar rearing had commenced in the plantation and has been well-maintained by the Samiti since then through regular silvicultural operations, application of manure, etc. The Samiti gets fertiliser support (Diammonium phosphate – DAP, urea and Muriate of Potash – MoP) from DoS for 10 acres, and uses its own funds for manuring 15 acres. The Samiti also has two Gator sprayers and four Knapsack sprayers provided by DoS.

In recent times, though, attacks by borers or powderpost beetles (Lyctus spp) have become a major issue in the area and need urgent attention.

The plantation provides free firewood and fodder for all members. The group has also taken up 40 acres of plantation in 2006 under the Rashtriya Sam Vikas Yojana (RSVY). Plate 3.1- Lyctus beetle

Plate 3.2 - Plantation at Baroghutu

Plate 3.3 - Multi facility centre (L) and collecting firewood at Baroghutu plantation (R)

In Tetla-Susnigeria village of Sankrail block in Paschim Medinipur district, Arjuna trees were planted on 145 acres of pastureland under the Inter-State Tasar Programme (ISTP) in 1982. Since 1996, rearing has been done regularly and at present, seven tasar rearing groups in four neighbouring villages carry out rearing on 105 acres. Even though some farmers laid claim to the land, the Block Development Officer (BDO) turned it down and the entire land was fenced. This is also the Daba trivoltine seed zone of the district; every two years, pruning or pollarding is done by 50 labourers on contract.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The rearers reported that gall disease is prevalent early in the season, and is treated by Dimethoate spray obtained from the DoS on a grant. The group has one Gator sprayer and is given urea, NPK and neem oilcake, etc. by the DoS.

Plate 3.4- Plantation at Tetla

Plate 3.5- Grainage building (L) and office (R) at Tetla plantation

Plate 3.6- Cardboard packets used for egg laying (L); Stray cattle grazing on the plantations at Tetla (R)

The Kherialata plantation in Bhulabeda Panchayat (Binpur-2, Paschim Medinipur) has 45 acres of Arjuna plantations developed through the Forest Department in 2000; currently 10 rearers carry out tasar cultivation with support from the Jhargram Khadi Village Industries Commission (KVIC).

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Bhagyalakshmi TVS of Arlo village in Ranibandh block of Bankura district planted 2,875 Arjuna trees across three acres of revenue land in 2014. This was implemented through the Mahatma Gandhi National Rural Employment Guarantee Scheme (MGNREGS) and facilitated by PRADAN. Under the scheme, a total of Rs 3 lakh was allotted, for fencing, digging a cattle-proof trench, etc. TVS members undertook all activities between themselves, including raising a nursery, inter-culture operations and guarding the plantation. The members had planned for inter-cropping with vegetables, but could not carry it out due to drought. The TVS also put in place social norms to guide the raising of the plantation, and set fines for cattle grazing.

Plate 3.7 - Plantation at Arlo, Ranibandh block, Bankura district

Shivdurga TVS of village Susnijibi in Binpur-2 block of Paschim Medinipur district developed Arjuna plantations across 16 acres under the MKSP project in 2015. About 15,000 saplings were developed in the nursery; however, in the absence of protective fencing, grazing has become a problem. Though members of the TVS have taken it upon themselves to stand guard over the crop, it has not been very effective.

The principal issues around forests and plantations that rearers typically face are:  Decline in the forest cover and host trees;  Sparse plantation of host trees and large distances between trees;  Increasing attacks from predators such as wasps and birds;  Conflicts with forest committees and staff;  Stealing of cocoons;  Unavailability of adequate quality plantations;  Attack of borer beetles;  Limited provisions for plantation maintenance;  Lack of water harvesting structures in plantations;  Lack of and poor quality of tools;  Drought and climate change; and  Grazing and lack of a social code to control it.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

3.4 Basic seed

The Basic Tasar Silkworm Seed Organisation (BTSSO) was established in 1998-99 with the objective of strengthening the tasar sub-sector by vitalising the three-tier seed multiplication system. BTSSO’s primary objectives are to produce nucleus and basic tasar silkworm seed by adopting quality parameters, training farmers and graineurs, monitoring disease, and extending technical help to state governments. It is headquartered in Bilaspur, Chhattisgarh, and has 23 nested units, including a Central Tasar Silkworm Seed Station (CTSSS) at Kargi-Kota in Chhattisgarh and 22 Basic Seed Multiplication and Training Centres (BSM&TC) located in nine tasar producing states.

The basic structure of seed production in tasar is shown below (Fig 3.2).

Breeder stock elite seed Elite Cocoons (CTR&TI – Ranchi)

Nucleus seed Nucleus Cocoons (CTSSS & BSM&TC) ARs/DRs

Basic seed (BSM&TC & Seed Cocoons PPC, SMC) ARs/DRs

Commercial seed (PPCs, NGOs, Private Commercial Rearers Graineurs, etc.)

Reelable cocoons

Breeder stock elite seeds are obtained at regular intervals from the Central Tasar Research and Training Institute (CTR&TI) at Ranchi; these are multiplied into nucleus seeds at the Central Tasar Silkworm Seed Station (CTSSS) in Kota. Apart from this, some amount of nucleus seed is also produced at the Basic Seed Multiplication & Training Centres (BSM&TC). The nucleus seeds are further multiplied into basic seeds at BSM&TC as well as the state Pilot Project Centres (PPCs) and the now upgraded Seed Multiplication Centres (SMCs). All BTSSO institutions are under the jurisdiction of Central Silk Board (CSB) while the PPCs and SMCs are under the Directorate of Sericulture (DoS).

From July to September the nucleus seeds are multiplied on isolated plantations with strict quality controls. In the second cycle from September to December, the seed is further reared to develop nucleus seed cocoons which are stored till the next season in July to produce basic seeds.

BSM&TC and PPCs work in close coordination with Adopted Seed Rearers (ASRs) to produce basic seed cocoons, which are distributed to private commercial graineurs for the production of commercial DFLs (disease-free layings). These DFLs are then finally distributed to commercial rearers to produce reelable cocoons.

There is one BSM&TC in West Bengal at Patelnagar in Birbhum district, along with a Research Extension Unit (REU) at Taldangra in Bankura district for Bankura and Paschim Medinipur districts.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 3.5 shows the brushing schedule for West Bengal, a process that needs to be followed for maximum productivity.

First crop Second crop Third crop TV BV TV BV TV 15-25 July 10-15 20-25 15 – 20 20-25 July August September October

The BSM&TC at Patelnagar primarily provides for the basic seed requirement of the area under study. The unit was established in 1979 and produces basic and nucleus DFLs for Daba TV and BV ecoraces. Daba TV takes up 75% of the total DFLs processed at the centre. The centre does not have a captive plantation of its own but works on three patches totalling 29.5 ha, leased by the Forest Department at Rs 3,600 per year. The centre has been established on three acres of land leased from the government; there are three mudhouse grainages with a capacity of 250,000, a training hall and building, a store, an office and a garage. There are 13 staff members and 14 Time Scale Farm Workers (TSFWs). The centre works in close coordination with the Centre for Women’s Development Studies (CWDS) and Ram Krishna Mission (RKM) with 155 ASRs facilitated by the agencies, primarily in Bankura district. The ASRs are mobilised through the formation of self-help groups (SHGs) in Purulia (at Sriramghutu and Tetla), Bankura (at Peripathor, Dhobani, Kadambera and Harangar in Khatra block; at Amdanga, Bhurkura and Kumarpara in Ranibandh block; and at Batikor in Bankura block), and Birbhum (at Morlapur, Nimdaspur, Kadamhiri, Niljora and Turabandh). The centre plans to carry out more Daba BV rearing in Purulia because of the reduced humidity in the area.

The ASRs are not given any substantial assistance, apart from lime and bleaching powder for chawkie-rearing; some fertilisers are provided based on availability. Chemical fertilisers were sanctioned late last year and thus were not of much use. The ASRs manage the rest of their requirements on their own or through the DoS.

There are also 15 Adopted Graineurs. In Baroghutu, 30,000 TV-1 seed cocoons were processed to 12,000 DFLs (Cocoon: DFL – 2.5:1); further 85,000 TV-2 cocoons were processed to 34,350 DFLs (2.47:1). CWDS also assists in the production of BV-1 DFLs from Baroghutu.

Apart from West Bengal, DFLs are also produced by Andhra Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh and Odisha.

Table 3.6 gives the details of cocoons processed and DFLs produced for TV and BV in 2014-2016.

2015-16 2014-15 TV BV TV BV Cocoons 7,45,853 1,00,670 6,32,659 1,59,967 DFLs 2,29,010 23,460 1,90,700 28,250 Ratio 3.2:1 4.25:1 3.31:1 5.66:1

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

About 52,000 DFLs are taken up by rearers in West Bengal, while the rest are distributed to other states, primarily Odisha and Andhra Pradesh. Last year the centre incurred a cost of Rs 15.75 lakh to produce 229,000 DFLs and recovered Rs 21.75 lakh through the sale of DFLs and pierced cocoons.

TV-1 cocoons are procured at Rs 1,400 per thousand while TV-2 is procured at Rs 1,700 per thousand as per DoS rates; the pierced cocoons are sold at Rs 750 per thousand to the Raw Material Bank (RMB). Last year 832,000 pierced cocoons were sold from the centre. BV cocoons were procured from Bankura at Rs 3.10 per piece, while the pierced cocoons are sold at Re 1 per piece.

The details of the BSM&TC unit at Patelnagar are mentioned in Table 3.7 below:

Established 1979 Basic seed DFLs 229,000 TV, 23,460 BV Price of DFL Rs 6 per DFL Cocoons procured 745,000 TV, ~ 100,000 BV Price of cocoons Rs 1,800 per thousand TV and Rs 3,100 per thousand BV Cocoons procured from Bankura, Purulia, Medinipur (primarily) Area 1.2 ha Captive plantations 29.5 ha Adopted seed rearers 155 No. of cycles taken 2 TV, 1 BV Hatching percentage 80% Cocoon : DFL ratio 3.2:1 TV and 4.2:1 BV Infrastructure and Three grainages, with a capacity of 250,000; training facilities hall and building, a store, an office and a garage Staff 13 regular, 14 TSFW Operational cost Rs 15.75 lakh for TV (excluding salary) Basic DFLs sold to West Bengal, Odisha, Andhra Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh

The state has five Pilot Project Centres (PPCs) out of which two at Patrosaheb and Taldangra have been adopted by the BSM&TC at Patelnagar.

The REU at Taldangra was set up in 1984; currently it operates out of a rented building with one staff and three skilled field workers (SFW); casual workers (CW) can be hired when required at Rs 204 per day. It has two rearing fields for Daba BV in Bankura district, spanning 39.29 acres of government land developed by CWDS. The basic seeds received from BSM&TCs are reared by ASRs and grainage is carried out at Taldangra. This provides DFLs to meet the internal need as well as DoS requirements in Bankura, Purulia and Paschim Medinipur. The ASRs are primarily rearers facilitated by CWDS at Khatra, Jhargram and Gopalnagar in Purulia through the DoS. Stock cocoons are maintained by hanging in the grainage, but termites and rats are major problems.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The principal issues of concern voiced by those interviewed were:

 Variability of weather conditions due to climate change;  Daba BV not suited to the area; non-standard operations;  Ageing staff and lack of quality microscopes;  Inability to ensure pebrine-free eggs due to the poor quality of microscopes;  Local conveyance is a problem; only one vehicle since 1982 and allowance of Rs 10,000 per month  No innovation or emergent technology on pebrine detection;  ASRs not given inputs;  REU Taldangra has limited manpower; and  No centralised procurement system for commercial crop, resulting in fluctuating prices.

Plate 3.8- BSM&TC Patelnagar

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

3.5 Tasar operations

The basic seed DFLs provided by BSM&TCs (Patelnagar, Deoghar, Pali and Bilaspur) and other units is converted into seed cocoons by seed cocoon rearers for TV-1 and TV-2 grainages. This process, though it takes only about a month, is extremely critical to the tasar value chain and is moreover risky, with low returns. Since the seed cocoons are reared in July and August (for Daba TV), it coincides with the monsoons and paddy transplants. The rearers find it difficult to allocate time to seed rearing. The monsoons also bring in an increased risk of crop loss. Since the seed cocoons are low in shell weight, they are allocated a price of Rs 1.50 per cocoon, which is lower than the price for commercial crop.

Seed rearing also needs to be carried out in exclusive rearing fields under well sanitised conditions. However, in the absence of the requisite number of host plants, exclusivity is not maintained. This results in the spread of diseases further down the chain, resulting in severe losses. Though the district sericulture office (DSO) at Bankura has allocated exclusive seed zones in plantations in Hirabandh, Khatra, Raipur and parts of Ranibandh, rearers tend to go for commercial crops in nearby fields as well.

There are 1,560 seed rearers in Bankura and 50 seed rearers in Paschim Medinipur. In the first crop of 2015-16 in Bankura, 14,000 TV DFLs were distributed (5,000 by DSO, 6,500 by CSB and 2,500 by others) while 22,700 BV DFLs were distributed (1,200 by DSO, 14,500 by CSB and 7,500 by others). In Paschim Medinipur, 3,750 TV-1 DFLs and 25,600 TV-2 DFLs, and 4,000 BV-1 DFLs, were given to seed rearers. The DSO at Paschim Medinipur procured 75,000 cocoons of TV-1, and 1,85,000 cocoons of TV-2 in 2015-16.

Table 3.8 shows the details of seed and commercial rearing in Khatra unit of Bankura district for 2015-16.

Crop DFLs Cocoons DFL:Cocoon Cocoons procured TV-1 4,100 57,49,000 1:44 13,250 TV-2 11,000 65,250 TV-3 1,14,500 -- BV-1 8,350 1,17,000 1:14 65,000

The DFLs are available to seed rearers at a 50% subsidised rate with support from the general plan of the state government as shown in Table 3.9.

Crop Price of 100 DFLs (200 gm) Rs TV-1 300 TV-2 350 BV-1 350

Apart from this, rearers are given equipment such as secateurs, low-volume sprayers, tarpaulins, spades, sickles, boxes for carrying eggs, bamboo baskets and trays, as well as lime and bleaching powder, under the Catalytic Development Programme (CDP) supported by the central and state governments, as well as by the Backward Regions Grant Fund (BRGF) with a unit cost of Rs 7,500, with 80% subsidy.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Under the Special Scheme (supported by the government of West Bengal), inputs such as NPK, urea, vermicompost and Jeevan Sudha, besides cleaning and mulching support, is provided. In 2013-14, each rearer received Rs 4,000 as support for inputs under the Special Scheme for input assistance. The scheme also provides crop insurance for the first and second crop, through the Oriental Insurance Company, with a premium at 7% of Rs 3,000, the sum assured. The scheme also has an additional Janata Personal Accident Cover with a sum assured of Rs 50,000 on death; this includes the husband, wife, two children and the house. Health Insurance for a family of four is provided through 90% subsidy at a premium of Rs 1,000 for a cover of Rs 30,000 through ICICI Lombard.

The state government has also fixed rates for procurement of seed cocoons (Table 3.10) and facilitates marketing of commercial cocoons by involving the Raw Material Bank (RMB) and cocoon markets.

Crop Rate for seed cocoons - Rs 1,000 pcs Rate for pierced cocoons - Rs 1,000 pcs TV-1 1,500 700 BV-1 2,000 750 TV-2 1,800 800 Bv-2 2,400 1,000 TV-3 -- 1,000

Under the General Plan, supported by the government of West Bengal, rearers in new areas are trained on scientific rearing practices for 15 days with an allocation of Rs 1,000 per rearer. About 200 rearers in Bankura and 50 rearers in Paschim Medinipur were trained under the programme.

The CDP programme offers 100% subsidy to strengthen the government farm by renovating the building and supplying modern equipment for the production of quality -free layings (DFLs), at a unit cost of Rs 2.5 lakh.

The primary concerns expressed by DoS officials on pre-cocoon activities were:

 The need to increase plantations;  The seed sector, currently weak, needs to be organised along the lines of the mulberry sector;  Conflicts with the forest department (especially on issues of pollarding) need to be resolved;  Human resources are limited; Group D staff manage farms in the absence of technically qualified people;  No new recruitments are being made;  Daba BV is not very successful in the area;  Well-demarcated seed zones are not available;  There are problems with cocoon marketing, especially with fluctuating prices;  Changes in weather patterns affect production; and  Post-cocoon Integration is not successful.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

In Tetla village of Sankrail block in Paschim Medinipur district, tasar is being reared since 1996 on the 105 acre plantation developed under the Inter State Tasar Programme (ISTP) in 1982. Six to seven groups of four villages (Tetla, Mecha, Khudmorai and Bonkathi) rear tasar with support from DoS; this has also been developed as a seed zone for Daba TV. Most of the groups are dominated by men and very few women take part in rearing activities.

In 2015, the groups received 7,200 DFLs of TV-2 from DoS at Rs 300/100 DFLs costing Rs 21,600, as work advance. Apart from this they receive urea, NPK, neem oil cake, Rogor spray, Chloropyrifos pesticide, lime and bleaching powder as part of a grant from DoS. They do not use nylon nets for rearing; each group has a Gator sprayer as well as regular sprayers and secateurs. The crop is insured through Oriental Insurance Company with the premium paid by DoS. Pollarding is done every two years by 50 labourers hired on contract. There are two grainage buildings with a capacity of 20,000 cocoons, one funded by DoS under the CDP and another through the block. The whole plantation has been fenced with support from the block office.

TV-2 crop is taken between mid-August and mid-September; in 2015, the 7,200 DFLs were distributed among seven groups with 36 rearers. Seventy per cent of the DFLs hatched to produce 78,000 cocoons (1:11), out of which 97% were bought back by the DoS at Rs 1.70 per piece; the remaining 2,000 flimsy cocoons were sold for Re 0.18 per piece to local traders. Each group earned about Rs 8,000 in the cycle. 600 cocoons were processed in the grainage to produce 300 DFLs (2:1); no microscopic examination was carried out for detecting the presence of pebrine.

Further 2,500 TV-3 DFLs were obtained from DoS at Rs 400 for 100 DFLs by four groups between mid-October and the first week of December. Seventy per cent of these hatched to yield 54,400 cocoons (1:22). These were sold to traders in Nayagram at Rs 1.87 a piece. At the later stages, however, high temperatures led to an attack of virosis, causing a decline in production.

In 2014, the group had reared 4,200 TV-2 DFLs to produce 1,07,000 cocoons (1:25) which were bought back by the DoS at Rs 1.70 a piece; in the TV-3 crop, they reared 3,000 DFLs to obtain 1,21,600 cocoons (1:40) which were sold to traders at Rs 2.30 per piece.

Table 3.11 summarizes the details.

Crop Rearers DFL Source Hatching % Cocoons DFL:Cocoon Rate- Rs/pc Sold to TV-2 36 7,200 DoS 70 78,000 1:11 1.7-Good DoS 0.18-Flimsy Local traders TV-3 20 2,500 DoS 70 54,400 1:22 1.87-Good Local traders

The primary concerns voiced by those interviewed were:

 Diseases like virosis resulting in losses;  Attacks by birds and other predators;  Lack of integration with the post-cocoon stage;  Challenges in marketing cocoons due to fluctuating rates;  The need for cattle guards to prevent open grazing; and  Lack of tools for working the soil.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Pre-cocoon activities being implemented by PRADAN

In Serensokra village of Ranibandh block in Bankura district, members of Rajarani Tasar Vikas Samiti (TVS) come from households that used to rear tasar in the traditional manner over 30 years ago. But over time, the activity declined and only four members out of 25 in the TVS were continuing to rear tasar (Daba TV) obtained from DoS and associated NGOs. However, the quality of DFLs was low (ratio of DFL to cocoon conversion at 1:32) and the supply of inputs and accessories, irregular. Rearers just got a spade, a basket, a tray, tarpaulin and a pair of secateurs, while two members also received bleaching powder.

In 2014, PRADAN launched its programme with Daba BV under the Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP); currently there are six basic seed rearers, three graineurs and 24 commercial rearers in the TVS. The group carries out rearing in the forests around the village, which have Asan, Sal, Siddhe and Dhaura host plants; but they are prohibited from pollarding the trees due to restrictions from the Joint Forest Management (JFM) Committees.

In 2015, the six members paid for 800 DFLs from BSM&TC Kendujhar in Odisha, Deoghar and Madhupur in Jharkhand at Rs 1,200 for 100 DFLs, and received Rs 9,600 on credit from the TVS. Each rearers’ group received 500 gm of urea, NPK (10:26:36) at 250 gm per plant, 39 kg of slaked lime, four kg of bleaching powder, 250 ml of Rogor spray and 300 ml of sodium hypochlorite under the MKSP grant. They also each bought 100 gm of turmeric powder and 500 gm of Folidol powder (Parathion), paying Rs 55. Each rearer received a nylon net, a pair of secateurs, a saw and a regular salon sprayer, along with two Gator sprayers for the TVS. The basic seed crop was insured, with the premium paid by the project. Commercial rearers also received lime, bleaching powder and sodium hypochlorite under the MKSP grant.

Ninety per cent of the DFLs received hatched to produce 27,400 cocoons (1:34), out of which 92% were used for grainage, bought by the TVS at Rs 2 per piece; the remaining 2,300 flimsy cocoons were sold to a weaver in Gaya, Bihar.

A grainage was built in the village through support from the MKSP grant. The grainage is equipped with two microscopes, a table, two stools, and an almirah, apart from equipment such as slides, boxes for laying eggs, tubs, buckets, mugs, scissors, markers, threads, rubber bands, brooms, etc. In 2014, the MKSP grant provided consumables such as detergents, soap, formalin, phenyl, old papers, Deprodex, Potassium Carbonate, and DFL bags. In 2015 a revolving fund of Rs 19,000 was used for grainage operations. Lime and bleaching powder left unused by seed rearers was used in the grainage. The programme does not have any provision for insurance at the grainage.

Grainage operations commenced on 11 September 2014 and ended by 24 September, with 25,100 cocoons producing 4,359 DFLs (5.76:1); as pebrine increased from 17% to 61%, the grainage activities were stopped. Poor weather, rains and fewer members resulted in management problems. The DFLs were sold to 24 commercial rearers (150 to 200 DFLs each) in the TVS at Rs 1,200 for 100 DFLs and the 25,000 pierced cocoons were sold on auction at Rs 1.56 per piece to the weaver in Gaya. There were three permanent workers at the grainage, while the TVS members worked at the grainage according to a roster. The wages for grainage work had not been paid out at the time of the study.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Almost 75-80% of the DFLs hatched and the cocoons were sold individually, with prices ranging from Rs 2.34 to Rs 2.60 per piece to local traders. Attempts were made to auction the cocoons, but due to the low price quoted (Grade A at Rs 2.10, Grade B at Rs 1.80 and Grade 3 at Re 0.70 per piece), the auction was cancelled and the cocoons were taken to the open market. However, traders classified 15-16% of the cocoons into Grade 3, and thus the prevailing price could not be achieved.

Table 3.12 summarises the details.

Crop Rearers DFL Source Hatching Cocoons DFL:Cocoon Rate- Sold to % Rs/pc BV-1 6 800 BSM&TC- 90 27,400 1:34 2 - Good Grainage Kendujhar, 92% - 1.56 - weaver at Gaya Madhupur Good Flimsy and Deoghar Grainage 3 25,000 Self 4,359 5.76 : 1 1,200 25 rearers permanent cocoons DFLs Cocoon:DFL per 100 Pierced cocoons DFLs to the weaver at Gaya

In Arlo village of Ranibandh block in Bankura district, 27 members of Bhagyalakshmi TVS have been rearing Daba BV for the past two years; earlier they would get TV DFLs from CWDS graineurs in Khatra, as well as from traders at Rs 500 per packet of 100 DFLs; no inputs were provided for rearing.

The members rear in the forests on Asan host trees, but are often stopped by the forest guard. The members received 1,000 DFLs from BSM&TC Madhupur in Jharkhand at Rs 1,200 per 100 DFLs (divided among six rearers as 250 DFLs for two rearers, 600 DFLs for three rearers and 150 DFL for one rearer) amounting to Rs 12,000 on credit from TVS. Apart from this they received the same kind of inputs and accessories as in the case of Rajarani TVS. The rearers on their own bought 100 gm of turmeric powder at Rs 14.

Ninety per cent of the DFLs hatched to produce 22,680 good cocoons (1:23) which were sold to the TVS for grainage at Rs 2 per piece. Flimsy cocoons were sold to the weavers of Gaya.

The 22,680 cocoons were processed in the grainage building constructed in the village under the MKSP grant of Rs 95,000 (along with all equipment and accessories). Only 700 DFLs could be produced by which time the incidence of disease increased to 57% and grainage activities had to be closed down. These DFLs were sold to seven commercial rearers at Rs 1,200 per packet of 100 DFLs and the pierced cocoons were sold to a weaver in Gaya through a common auction, as mentioned earlier.

The commercial cocoons were sold to traders at Rs 2.34 per piece with 15% categorised as Grade 3.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 3.13 summarises the details.

Crop Rearers DFL Source Hatching Cocoons DFL:Cocoon Rate- Sold to % Rs/pc BV-1 6 1,000 BSM&TC 90 ~ 22,680 ~ 1:23 2 - Good Grainage Madhupur 1.56 - weaver at Flimsy Gaya Grainage TVS 22,680 Self 700 32:1 1,200 7 rearers cocoons Cocoon:DFL per 100 Pierced DFLs cocoons to the weaver at Gaya

In Sushnijubi village of Binpur-2 block in Paschim Medinipur district, five members of the Shivdurga TVS come from families that were involved in traditional rearing 30-35 years ago, as described in Section 3.2. The members received Daba TV DFLs from the DoS and CWDS grainages in Jhargram, Taldangra and Khatra. In 1988 a packet of 100 DFLs cost Rs 150, while in 2011 it varied from Rs 450 to Rs 600 per packet. The yields varied from 3,800 cocoons to 500 cocoons per 100 DFLs.

Under the MKSP project, there are 40 rearers who carry out Daba BV rearing in the forests, primarily on Asan host plants. They are not allowed to pollard the trees due to objections from the Joint Forest Management (JFM) committees. There are six seed rearers who received 1,050 DFLs from BSM&TC Madhupur in Jharkhand as well as from the Vanavasi Cooperative at Leelavaran in Banka district of Bihar at Rs 1,200 per 100 DFLs, amounting to Rs 12,600, on credit from the TVS. Apart from this, all other inputs except turmeric powder were provided under the MKSP grant, as described above.

Due to a heavy attack of wasps in the forests during seed rearing, the group had to lease land at Arapahi, about 40 km away in Purulia district, at Rs 20,000. Around 12 members had to stay there during the rearing, at an additional cost of Rs 7,000 for transport and accommodation.

Ninety five per cent of the DFLs hatched to produce 75,000 cocoons (1:71), out of which 89% were of good quality and sold for grainage at Rs 2 per piece; the remaining 8,000 flimsy cocoons were sold to weavers from Gaya. The cocoons were further processed in Shyamnagar village about 6 km away to produce 27,840 DFLs (2.4:1) with pebrine incidence at 3-5%. The DFLs were distributed among 40 TVS members (100 to 150 DFLs per rearer) as well as to other TVS for rearing, and the pierced cocoons were sold through auction. TVS members worked according to a roster at the grainage; some wages were still unpaid at the time of the study. The grainage building was completed later under the MKSP grant, along with a contribution of Rs 66,000 from the community in the form of labour, timber and stones.

Under commercial rearing, 3,800 DFLs yielded 2,02,000 cocoons (1:53), out of which 84% were of good quality and sold at Rs 2.34 per piece, while the remaining 32,500 flimsy cocoons were sold at Re 0.74 per piece to traders from Raghunathpur in Purulia district. The income from tasar rearing was primarily spent on festivals and on education of children.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 3.14 summarises the details.

Crop Rearers DFL Source Hatching Cocoons DFL:Cocoon Rate- Sold to % Rs/pc BV-1 6 1,050 BSM&TC 95 75,000 1:71 2 - Good Grainage Madhupur; 89% - Good 1.56 - weaver at Vanavasi Flimsy Gaya Cooperative, Leelavaran Grainage TVS 67,000 Self 27,840 2.4:1 1,200 40 rearers cocoons DFLs per 100 Pierced DFLs cocoons to weaver at Gaya BV-2 40 3,800 Self NA 2,02,000 1:53 2.34 - Good Local traders 84% - Good 0.74 - at Flimsy Raghunathpur

The main concerns expressed by those interviewed were:

 Reduction in the number of host trees due to indiscriminate felling, resulting in fewer trees than rearers;  Conflicts with forest management committees;  Private land not available for plantation;  No infrastructure to store cocoons for long for marketing;  Absence of a hand pump leading to water shortages in grainage operations; and  Failure of grainage due to pebrine.

Plate 3.9- Grainage at Arlo in Ranibandh block, Bankura

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 3.10- Grainage at Susnijibi in Binpur 2 block of Paschim Medinipur

Pre-cocoon activities of Centre for Women’s Development Studies (CWDS)

CWDS was one of the first NGOs to work on tasar rearing in the region since 1981; its principal activities include plantation, tasar rearing and grainage, as well as post cocoon activities. The details of pre-cocoon activities in 2013-14 are presented in Table 3.15.

Crop Location DFLs Cocoons DFL:Cocoon Rate- Net Person Income- Sold Ratio Rs/pc Income days Rs/day (Rs) Daba Harangar (1) 1,000 19,853 1:20 1.60 - 23,912 582 41 CSB BV-1 93% - Good Good 0.23 - Flimsy Daba Baroghutu, 2,200 38,850 1:19 2.30 - 73,037 1,239 59 CSB BV-2 Kadambera (2) 97% - Good Good 0.57 - Flimsy Daba Pirorgadi,Bansdiha, 2,000 89,005 1:29 1.20- 94,591 998 95 CSB TV-1 Peripathor, 95% - Good Baroghutu (4) Good 0.21- Flimsy Daba Dhobani, Tetla, 8,300 2,86,758 1:34 1.50 - 3,54,611 4,756 74 Own TV-2 Sriramghutu, 92% - Good grainage Bhurkura, Batikor, Good 0.25 - Baroghutu (6) Flimsy Daba Harangar, 21,130 5,68,717 1:25 2.10 - 8,46,635 10,153 83 Traders, TV-3 Peripathor, 78% - Good both local Baroghutu, Loto, Good 0.57 - and from Tetla, Batikor, Flimsy elsewhere Sriramghutu, Chiagora, Amatol, Bhurkura, Dabri, Dhagra (12)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

In 2013-14, the Daba BV-1 cocoons and TV-1 cocoons were provided to BSM&TC Patelnagar, while TV-2 cocoons were used for c0mmercial grainage; seven commercial grainages were run for DFL supply to commercial rearers, as well as to rearers outside CWDS beneficiaries. Table 3.16 shows the details.

Grainages Seed DFL Cocoon:DFL Rate-Rs/ Net income (Rs) Income/ cocoon DFL grainage (Rs) Baroghutu, 2,57,300 87,292 2.95:1 6 2,04,921 29,274 Dhobani 1 & 2, Batikor, Bhurkura, Harangar, Jhilimil

The details of pre-cocoon activities in 2014-15 are presented in Table 3.17.

Crop Groups DFLs Cocoons DFL:Cocoon Person days Sold to BV-2 2 3,000 87,859 1:29 1,422 CSB TV-1 3 2,000 45,984 1:23 802 CSB TV-2 7 9,700 4,04708 1:42 6,362 Own grainage TV-3 12 18,850 10,50,784 1:56 13,979 RMB-Tantipara

The details of TV grainage activity in 2014-15 are presented in Table 3.18.

Grainages held Cocoons hanged DFLs produced Cocoon:DFL Person days 9 4,14,200 1,51,178 2.7 : 1 1,116

Out of the 1,51,000 DFLs produced, 18,450 (12%) were used by TVS members, and the remaining sold to other rearers.

In Baroghutu village of Khatra block in Bankura district, the Baroghutu Gramin Mahila Sramik Unnayan Samiti with 58 members has been rearing tasar since 1987, on an 84 acre plantation developed in 1984 under International Labour Organisation (ILO) support through CWDS. The rearers carry out all three cycles of Daba TV and BV-2 in the plantation.

In 2015, the group of 25 rearers took 1,500 DFLs of TV-1 from BSM&TC Patelnagar at Rs 3 per DFL, costing Rs 4,500; they had been provided Diammonium Phosphate (DAP), urea and potash for 10 acres and the TVS funded them for 15 acres in addition. Apart from this, Rogor spray, Triazophos, lime and bleaching powder were provided by the DoS. The samiti has more than 15 nylon nets, which they received under UNDP and CDP programmes; they have four Knapsack sprayers as well as regular salon sprayers, secateurs and saws. The TV-1 and 2 crops are covered under insurance, with the premium being paid by the DoS.

The TV-1 crop commenced on 3 June 2015 and went on to the third week of July. Eighty five per cent of the DFLs hatched to form 1,05,000 cocoons (1:70); 95% of the cocoons were taken by BSM&TC Patelnagar at Rs 1.40 per piece and the remaining 5,000 flimsy cocoons were sold to local traders at Re 0.31 per piece.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The TV-2 crop was reared by 25 rearers, starting in mid-August and going on till the end of September; 80% of the 1,800 DFLs from BSM&TC Patelnagar hatched to form 97,000 cocoons (1:54), out of which 85,000 (88%) were used for grainage conducted by the samiti and the remaining 12,000 were sold as flimsy cocoons to the local traders at Re 0.39 per piece.

The grainage building was constructed with Rs 2.43 lakh from DoS and Rs 1.26 lakh from CWDS, inside the plantation premises with all equipment (including two microscopes) and accessories provided by the DoS. The samiti bought consumables of Rs 5,000 and engaged 18 members along with four microscopists during the grainage cycle. 85,000 cocoons were processed to produce 34,400 DFLs (2.47:1) with a 10% incidence of pebrine on a sample basis. All operations were primarily done by women with some support from men; a roster was maintained and the members were paid Rs 150 per day.

The samiti took 5,500 DFLs for distribution among 25 of its own members and the remaining 28,900 DFLs were sold to rearers from elsewhere in Bankura, Paschim Medinipur and Jharkhand at Rs 6.50 per DFL. The pierced cocoons were sold at Re 0.61 per piece to local traders. TV-3 rearing was carried out between mid October and the end of December.

Eighty per cent of the TV-3 DFLs hatched to form 2,78,462 cocoons (1:51), out of which 2,25,000 (80%) were sold to the Raw Material Bank at Tantipara in Birbhum district at Rs 2.19 per piece, while the remaining 21,440 flimsy cocoons were sold at Rs 1.09 per piece and 19,200 poor quality flimsy cocoons were sold at Re 0.54 per piece to local traders.

Twelve rearers also carried out BV-2 rearing between mid September and October end from 1,500 DFLs obtained from the Research Extension Unit (REU) at Taldangra. Seventy five per cent of the DFLs hatched to form 46,280 cocoons (1:31) out of which 97% were of good quality and were bought back by REU-Taldangra at Rs 3.10 per piece while the remaining 1,280 flimsy cocoons were sold to local traders at Re 0.94 per piece. The crop had poor yield due to virosis and reduced hatching.

Out of the total proceeds, 1% was retained at the federation level Nari Vikas Sangha and 5% at the local samiti level, while the remaining was distributed as wages to the rearers working according to the roster. Members also received firewood and fodder free of cost.

Table 3.19 details the tasar rearing activities of the samite.

Crop Rearers DFLs Hatching Source DFL: Cocoons Rate-Rs/pc Sold to % Cocoon TV-1 25 1,500 85 BSM&TC 1:70 1,05,000 Good - 1.40 BSM&TC Patelnagar 95% - Good Flimsy - 0.31 Patelnagar and local traders TV-2 25 1,800 80 BSM&TC 1:54 97,000 Flimsy - 0.39 Grainage and Patelnagar 88% - Good local traders TV 18 85,000 Self 2.47:1 34,400 DFLs - 6.50/ Samiti, rearers Grainage cocoons Cocoon: DFLs 100 from elsewhere DFL Pierced- 0.61 and local traders TV-3 25 5,500 80 Self 1:51 2,78,462 Good - 2.19 RMB -Tantipara 80% - Good Flimsy - 0.81 and local traders BV-2 12 1,500 75 REU - 1:31 46,280 Good - 3.10 REU -Taldangra Taldangra 97% - Good Flimsy - 0.94 and local traders

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The main concerns raised by those interviewed were:

 Attack of stem borers on Arjuna trees;  Deficiency in the availabity of fertilisers;  BV crop is not very stable and faces frequent failures;  Absence of water harvesting structures in the plantations;  Limited availability of farm tools;  Inferior quality of farm tools; and  Post-cocoon integration not viable.

The Khadi Village Industries Commission (KVIC) - Jhargram in Paschim Medinipur district has initiated pre-cocoon activities in Bhulabeda panchayat of Binpur-2 block since 2015. There are about 500 registered rearers in the area, but they have to buy DFLs at Rs 1,200 for 100 DFLs from traders and private graineurs even though the subsidised rate for DFL is Rs 450 for TV-3 and Rs 500 for BV-2; the margin is taken by the traders.

The rearers took 3,950 Daba BV-1 DFLs from BSM&TC Deoghar with 85% hatching and a production of 1,03,460 cocoons (1:26). Upon carrying out grainage with 81,000 (78%) of these cocoons, they produced 13,700 DFLs (5.91:1) that were distributed among 125 farmers. The 22,460 flimsy cocoons were sold to local traders at Re 0.31 per piece. The average production of commercial rearers was about 4,500 cocoons (1:41) each; KVIC bought back 70% of the production (~ 4,00,000 cocoons) at Rs 2.34 per piece.

In TV-3, 5,000 DFLs were taken from BSM&TC Patelnagar and distributed to 72 rearers who got an average production of 2,800 (1:40) cocoons; KVIC bought back 25% of the production (~ 50,000 cocoons) at Rs 2 per piece. Apart from this they purchased 3,00,000 cocoons from Maharashtra.

The Central Silk Board (CSB) provided technical guidance and nylon nets for rearing, while the remaining inputs were provided through KVIC under the tasar project being supported by CSB. The grainage was carried out of a rented building.

Table 3.20 summarises the details of pre-cocoon activities.

Crop Rearers DFLs Hatching % Source DFL:Cocoon Cocoons Rate-Rs/pc Sold to BV-1 25 3,950 85 BSM&TC- 1:26 1,034,60 0.31 - Flimsy Local traders Deoghar Grainage 81,000 Self 5.91:1 13,700 6 Commercial cocoons Cocoon:DFL DFLs per DFL rearers BV-2 125 13,700 NA Self 1:41 5,71,428 2.34 - Good KVIC Local traders TV-3 72 5,000 NA BSM&TC- 1:40 ~ 2,00,000 2 - Good KVIC Patelnagar Local traders

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The main concerns raised by those interviewed were:

 Unavailability of quality DFLs, especially Daba BV;  The role of the RMB in cocoon procurement is crucial; and  Traders sort out cocoons using unfair practices during procurement.

Apart from this, a number of traders (who are also many times rearers or private graineurs) are engaged in the sale of DFLs; they get TV DFLs from the CWDS centre at Khatra at Rs 650 per 100 DFLs and sell them at Rs 700 to commercial rearers. The DoS DFLs are obtained at Rs 400 per 100 DFLs and sold to rearers at Rs 500 per 100 DFLs. Each trader handles about 18 to 20 kg of TV DFLs; apart from this, they also buy Daba BV DFLs from private graineurs at Rs 1,200 per 100 DFLs. However the results of TV-3 are more encouraging and Daba BV does not perform well. All these transactions are carried out on trust and the advances are adjusted during cocoon procurement.

The state government has declared a minimum price for procurement of TV-1 and TV-2 seed cocoons and BV-1 and BV-2 seed cocoons as well as pierced cocoons; cocoon procurement is done by BSM&TCs and DoS units for basic seed production. The pierced cocoons from grainages of BSM&TCs and DoS are usually sold to the RMB.

The remaining commercial cocoons are sold in the open market to local traders based in and around the tasar-growing regions as well as in weaving centres like Bishnupur in Bankura district, Raghunathpur in Purulia district and Tantipara in Birbhum district. Apart from this, traders from Bihar and Jharkhand also procure cocoons from the area.

Table 3.21 shows the rates fixed by the government of West Bengal for TV and BV seed cocoons.

Crop Seed cocoon Pierced cocoon Rs/1,000 pcs Rs/1,000 pcs TV-1 1,500 700 TV-2 1,800 800 BV-1 2,000 750 BV-2 2,400 1,000 TV-3 1,000

The government of West Bengal has also set up a Raw Material Bank (RMB) at Tantipara in Birbhum district that is engaged in the procurement of cocoons. Currently the RMB is managed by the Ma Sarada Resham o Tasar Swanirbhar Dal, which is an association of 10 weavers in Tantipara. The RMB-Tantipara was established in 2010 and has a storage capacity of 857 kahan (10,96,000 cocoons); the building was supported by the Birbhum Zilla Parishad in 2012 and a working capital of Rs 42 lakh was provided by the DoS for cocoon procurement. The RMB is located on 10 katthas of land donated by the villagers. It has a stifling machine of the Maldah type (running on firewood and an electric fan) with a capacity of 9,600 cocoons per cycle. The godown is rat-proofed through nets on the windows and ventilators.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

In 2016, the RMB had procured 436 kahan (~ 5,60,000) TV cocoons primarily from Khatra in Bankura district at a cocoon market jointly organised by DoS and CWDS. Sixty two per cent of the cocoons are in A grade, while the remaining are of C grade; apart from this there is 1 kahan (1,280) of pierced cocoons. In 2013-14, the RMB had purchased 250 kahan (3,20,000) cocoons from Purbi Singhbhum in Jharkhand and 100 kahan (1,28,000) from Dumka in Jharkhand.

Table 3.22 shows the procurement rates for different qualities of cocoons.

TV cocoon Yarn/ kahan (1,280 Purchase rate Sale rate pcs) Rs/ kahan Rs/ kahan Grade A 1 kg 2,800 3,000 2.19 2.34 Grade B 0.8 to 0.9 kg 2,550 2,750 1.99 2.15 Grade C 0.7 to 0.8 kg 2,250 2,450 1.76 1.91 Pierced 800 1,000 0.62 0.78

The rearers are paid by cheque for cocoons and payment is seldom on time. The grade is determined based on eye estimate, shell toughness and experience; once procured, the cocoons are transported from the site of purchase in Khatra to the RMB godown at Tantipara at Rs 200 per kahan. The cocoons are stifled in the machine for one hour and 100 degrees centigrade and further sun dried and sold to reelers and weavers in Tantipara, Khoiradih, Karidhya, Hetampur and Kedula at a margin of Rs 200 per kahan. Stifling and drying expenses range from Rs 20 to Rs 50 per kahan. Since there is no water channel, the RMB uses Gamaxene (Benzene Hexachloride-BHC) to keep away ants.

The centre has four staff and two technical extension workers, all of whom are paid daily wages by the DoS.

The main concerns raised were:

 Procurement of cocoons need to be in cash, since there are delays in payment transfers and this discourages the rearers from selling to the RMB;  The centre remains functional only during the cocoon procurement season;  Even though there are no storage losses or problems, the RMB is not allowed to keep cocoons for long and often has to sell the cocoons at a loss due to DoS directives;  Ants are a problem because of the lack of water channeling in the godown; and  There is no provision for local conveyance of the staff.

PRADAN had also organised an auction of cocoons in 2015-16 by inviting traders from the state as well as from the neighboring states of Bihar and Jharkhand. Pierced and flimsy cocoons were purchased by a weaver based in Gaya in Bihar for a rather high price; however for reelable cocoons, the rates offered at the auction were lower than that prevailing outside; the auction was thus not successful. KVIC-Jhargram purchased 70% of Daba BV production and 25% of TV production from its rearers for post-cocoon operations in its unit.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Primarily the commercial cocoons are sold to local traders who generally operate over 10 villages; there are 20-25 petty traders in tasar-growing blocks. Each trader on an average takes 500-1,000 kahan, of which the majority comprises TV cocoons. The cocoons are purchased on advances from bigger traders and weaving units; their quality is assessed on the basis of an eye estimate, the toughness of the shell as well as experience over time. The cocoons are transported on motorcycle and kept at home for a short while. They are spread over the floor and Folidol (Parathion) is used to keep away ants. They are almost immediately sold off to weaving units in Bishnupur, Baharagora, Raghunathpur and Tantipara. The cocoons are transported by pick-up trucks at Rs 100-120 per kahan and despatched within two or three days. In the initial interactions, cash is paid on the spot, while at the later stages, cocoons are sold on credit, though immediate cash payment is preferred. Sale prices depend on the supply of cocoon as well as on yarn rates, but can suddenly change owing to trader competition in times of poor production. Rearers are paid advances and settlement is done after the final clearance from bigger traders.

Table 3.23 shows the procurement and sale price of cocoons by petty traders in 2015-16.

Cocoons Purchase (Rs) Sale (Rs) One kahan = 1,280 pcs TV 2,400 2,500 Flimsy 400 450 BV 3,000 3,110 Flimsy 990 1,050 Pierced 640 740

This is a seasonal business for local traders who also deal with other non-timber forest produce (NTFP) such as kendu patta. Many graineurs and rearers have also begun operating as traders. The main problems for the traders are low margins, dependency on capital from big traders and intermittent trouble from the police.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Dist & Block Admin

1 6

PIA ASRs BSM&TC & REU RMB Chaibasa C E 2 N 1 2 6 4 T TVS & SHGs 1 R 2 DoS/PPCs 3 A CWDS 3 Commercial Graineurs L Insurance PRADAN Rearer 2 KVIC etc S 6 I 53 L Input 6 4 TRADERS K Suppliers 5 5 B 5 5 O A BANKS Outside State

R KVIC Weaving Units RMB Tantipara Traders or D Processors Forest Dept

Legend Fig 3.3- Product flow diagram – Pre-cocoon

1 - Basic DFLs 2 - Seed cocoons 3 - Commercial DFLs 4 - C DFLs and cocoons 5 - Commercial cocoons 6 - Pierced and flimsy

Table 3.24 shows the consolidated actors and material volume produced in the value chain in the two districts of Bankura and Paschim Medinipur as well as for West Bengal and the other organisations such as CWDS, PRADAN and KVIC-Jhargram.

District Plantations Seed Basic Seed Graineurs Commercial Commercial Commercial rearers DFLs cocoons DFLs rearers cocoons Bankura 6,380 1,566 31 4,17,000 5,220 2.45 crore Paschim 2,136 50 8 93,000 500 0.54 crore Medinipur State 16,630 7,16,410 16,464 4.2 crore CWDS 630 11 grps 11,300 3,95,616 7 23,330 12 groups 6,07,567 PRADAN KVIC- 45 25 3,950 1,03,460 1 18,700 197 7,71,428 Jhargram The items in red font indicate the total DFLs, rearers and cocoons (including basic DFLs and seed cocoons).

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

3.6 Institutional set-up

A number of institutions have been set up, such as the Directorate of Sericulture (DoS), Basic Tasar Silkworm Seed Organisation (BTSSO), and the Raw Material Bank (RMB), to carry out the overall operations of the pre-cocoon Tasar Value Chain. Under the Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP), village-level women-led community organisations such as Tasar Vikas Samitis (TVS) and block-level federations are also being initiated along the lines of a three-tier self-help group (SHG).

Tasar Vikas Samiti (TVS)

Under MKSP, women at the village level are organised into SHGs while the tasar producers are organised into primary activity groups such as the TVS comprising rearers, graineurs, plantation farmers, reelers and spinners, who are responsible for the overall implementation and progress of the programme in the village. The TVS further forms a Project Execution Committee (PEC) which is the working group for implementing the activities under the plans decided at the TVS.

Each TVS has 15-40 members and meets once in a month or as collectively decided.

Based on the participatory planning of tasar activities at the TVS, a requisition is placed for funds to the facilitating organisation (Project Implementing Agency – PIA, e.g. PRADAN) and after verification the amount is transferred to the account specified for implementing the project.

The members of the TVS with help from the PEC and a Community Service Provider (CSP) and facilitated by the PIA concerned, carry out the activities planned and maintain accounts.

The principal functions of the TVS are to:

 Select tasar rearers;  Select a proper rearing site;  Maintain host plants;  Promote new plantations;  Monitor the quality of DFLs and availability, as per schedule;  Support rearers in accessing quality and timely inputs, accessories, services and markets;  Provide a revolving fund and credit to tasar producers;  Build the capacity of tasar producers;  Review tasar producers and service providers; and  Implement activities, keep records, handle funds, monitor and report.

The various samitis in villages are further integrated at the block-level as Producers’ Organisations or federations.

Most of the TVS promoted by PRADAN under MKSP are currently at the fledging state; meetings are irregular and members are yet to develop clarity on their roles and responsibilities. Their main activities comprise the construction of the grainage building, nursery and plantations.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Rajarani TVS of Serensokra village in Bankura distrist with 25 members holds meetings as required, between three and five times a year. Bhagyalakshmi TVS of Arlo village in Bankura district with 27 members has taken up the construction of the grainage building and establishing plantations; one of their main achievements was to establish a tasar plantation on 3 acres under MGNREGA. Shivdurga TVS of Sushnijubi village in Paschim Medinipur district with 40 members meets every month; the TVS has developed a 6.5 ha plantation under MKSP as well as constructed a grainage building. The group has decided to develop a corpus and also initiate post-cocoon activities in the village.

Plate 3.11 TVS at Serensokra and Susnijibi

District or block-level Producers’ Federation

This is the integrating apex body of all the TVS groups in the block or district, the Tasar Producers’ Collective. The federation is envisaged as an independent body registered at the district level. There will be a collective for every 500-1,000 families, based on geographical spread.

The primary functions of the collective will be to:

 Regulate the quality and price of DFLs;  Preserve seed cocoon and produce basic seeds;  Promote improved silkworm rearing practices;  Manage the surplus and deficit in DFLs;  Access distant markets for the sale of cocoons;  Establish linkages with resource and research institutions for facilitating innovations;  Mobilise finance from financial institutions; and  Collaborate with the forest department to improve the tasar host stock.

By building the capacity of board members and the CEO of the district-level collective, it is anticipated that a sustainable revenue-based community institution will be established to manage the livelihoods from tasar rearing once the project ends.

All the TVS are federated at the block level as the Jangalmahal Mahila Tasar Chasir Dal with a membership of 49 TVS and more than 1,135 members. The federation, formed in 2015, has not yet been registered, but met in 2016 to decide on the construction of a Basic Seed Production Unit (BSPU) with a capacity of 1,25,000 cocoons at Shyamnagar village.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

CWDS has been implementing tasar rearing, grainage and plantation activities through women’s groups since the 1980s; there are 24 groups that have implemented plantations besides carrying out tasar rearing in their respective villages.

The Baroghutu Gramin Mahila Sramik Unnayan Samiti has 58 members and has been in operation since 1984. Apart from having one of the best plantations across 84 acres developed in 1984, they established plantations on an additional 40 acres in 2006. The group carries out all cycles of TV and a second crop of BV. The proceeds from tasar activities are divided into three – 1% goes to the federating body Nari Vikas Sangha, 5% is retained at the local samiti and the remaining is distributed to the members.

The Nari Vikas Sangha was formed in 1990; it now has 358 members and an 18-member governing board, along with two nominated members from CWDS. Apart from this, 13 staff members assist the sangha in its day-to-day functioning in the administrative, technical and accounts departments. The sangha is engaged in the overall implementation of all the programmes related to livelihoods, education, childcare, etc.

Plate 3.12- Members of Baroghutu Gramin Mahila Sramik Unnayan Samiti

The samiti provides the following services to the members apart from tasar activities:

 Revolving fund for six months for livelihood activities;  Fertiliser support for agriculture;  Distress loan at 1% per annum;  Firewood and fodder from the plantation;  Furniture set on hire during weddings;  Boring wells for drinking water; and  Multiple livelihood activities.

Even though the DoS promotes tasar through rearer groups, they are informal and largely activity groups with mostly men.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Ma Sarada Resham o Tasar Swanirbhar Dal manages the Raw Material Bank at Tantipara; this is a seasonal activity occurring only during the tasar harvest season. The group engages in procurement, sorting, and transport of cocoons from the cocoon market at Khatra organised by the DoS and CWDS. It also carries out stifling, sun-drying and storage of the cocoons in the godown. The cocoons are marketed to local weavers in the area at a margin of Rs 200 per kahan. However the group is dependent on the DoS for most decisions regarding procurement, sale and funds, and often cannot carry out what is best as per the market.

The Directorate of Sericulture

The Directorate of Sericulture (DoS) was formed under the Cottage and Small Scale Industries Department in 1975. In 2009, a separate Directorate of Textiles headed by a Commissioner of Textiles under the Department of Micro and Small-scale Enterprises and Textiles was formed. Under this, the sericulture division is responsible for all pre-cocoon activities in the state. The Commissioner is assisted by the joint director of textiles and assistant director of textiles for tasar activities at the headquarters, along with accounts, IT and other technical persons. For the west zone, there is a joint director at Bolpur who is supported by deputy directors and assistant directors and other technical, accounts and administrative staff at the district level.

The general mandate of the organisation is presented below (in reference to tasar):

 Extension programme under non-mulberry;

 Supply of high-yielding plant materials and silkworm seed at subsidised rates;  Support for the construction and remodelling of rearing house, procurement of rearing implements, disinfectants, plantation inputs, etc.  Promotion and strengthening of the post-cocoon technology sector;  Providing marketing, institutional and infrastructural support;  Crop insurance support including personal accident coverage; and  Organising various training programmes, workshops, etc. for transfer of technology to farmers.

Basic Tasar Silkworm Seed Organisation (BTSSO)

This is the principal body providing the basic DFLs for seed cocoon rearing in the area; the details have been covered in section 3.4.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

3.7 Schemes and programmes for pre-cocoon activities

This section describes the different programmes in the pre-cocoon sector.

Support under Catalytic Development Programme, Ministry of Textiles

The Catalytic Development Programme (CDP) initiated in the 10th Five Year Plan was further continued in the 11th and 12th (2012-17) plan comprising the following programmes (Table 3.25).

Assistance Programmes for Features Capacity, Target group Unit cost and outreach sharing details New private graineurs Training on processing and 20,000 1,500 private Rs 2.32 lakh (60% production of DFLs; grainage cocoons graineurs CSB, 20% state, construction; insurance; building 20% beneficiary) maintenance; 5,000 Equipment; consumables and seed DFLs/cycle cocoons Existing graineurs Grainage building repair; servicing 1,000 existing Rs 42,000 (60% of equipment; upgradation of graineurs CSB, 20% state, existing equipment; working 20% beneficiary) capital and hiring of moth testers Strengthening of tasar seed Renovation of existing facilities Joint 30 Pilot Project Rs 5 lakh (50% CSB, multiplication infrastructure and infrastructure; supply of Committee of Centres (PPCs) 50% state) grainage equipment DoS and CSB to decide NGOs, societies, SHGs can also avail benefits of the programme Establishment of Basic Seed BSPU infrastructure along with 1,00,000 7 BSPUs Rs 43 lakh (60% Production Unit (BSPU) equipment cocoons CSB, 20% state, SHGs, 20% beneficiary) cooperatives and NGOs for management Tasar silkworm rearers for Rearing equipment and tools, 2,500 rearers Seed rearers to Rs 20,000 (60% production of nucleus and fertilisers, prophylactic measures be attached to CSB, 20% state, basic seeds, grainage and new technologies developed BSM&TC, DoS 20% beneficiary) operations at CTR&TI-Ranchi and BSPUs Mobile testing facility for Mobile pick-up van for easy 20 units Joint team with Rs 6.1 lakh (50% disease monitoring and movement of the seed cocoon representatives CSB, 50% state) seed cocoon testing Joint testing team of CTR&TI, team to visit seed areas to BTSSO, DoS, monitor disease incidence NGOs/ CBOs, during seed rearing, seed producer cocoon procurement/ groups, etc. preservation/ processing, seed production to contain incidence of disease

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Augmentation of tasar host 1 ha plantation of tasar host plants; 12,000 ha Tasar rearers, Rs 40,000/ha (60% plants 10% area for chawkie rearing SHGs, women’s CSB, 20% state, 20% 2.4 m x 2.4 m; groups, Van beneficiary) 1,726 plants Suraksha (1,910 seedlings supplied); Samitis (VSS), plantation cost; inputs; soil and Tasar Vikas water conservation; intercropping; Samiti (TVS), cattle-proof trench; cattle guard and Joint Forest Management Committee in case of forest lands Tasar food plant seedling Seedling nursery on a mass scale 70,000 300 nurseries Rs 80,000 (60% CSB, nursery seedlings in 20% state, 20% 100 beds to Tasar rearers, beneficiary) raise 55,000 SHGs, VSS, TVS effective seedlings for 25 ha plantation spaced at 3 m x 1.8 m Chawkie garden Chawkie rearing in private lands 0.1 ha per 4,000 rearers Rs 6,300 (60% CSB, development and government wastelands rearer with SHG, VSS, KVS, 20% state, 20% 1.8 m x 1.8 m etc. beneficiary) Supply of seedlings, cost of spacing, plantation development, inputs, suitable for soil conservation measures, inter- young age cropping silkworm rearing under nylon net Chawkie garden Interculture, soil conservation, 2,400 rearers Rs 1,400 (60% CSB, maintenance vermicompost, management of 20% state, 20% termites, fungal attack, application beneficiary) of fertilisers, neem-based insecticides, leaf surface microbes, etc. Block plantation Block plantations on private lands 1,200 ha Rs 17,000 (60% CSB, maintenance and government wastelands 20% state, 20% beneficiary) Interculture, soil augmentation, vermicompost, termite and fungus management, application of fertilisers, neem-based pesticides, leaf surface microbes, etc. Cocoon storage house Temporary storage for three to Storage 100 units Rs 1 lakh (35% CSB, four months to avoid distress sale. structure for 35% state,30% It is also used as a Common Facility 50,000 beneficiary) Centre (CFC) cocoons and CFC Cocoon storage with Long-term cocoon storage to Cocoon 30 units Rs 22.2 lakh (35% stifling facility assist in additional income for storehouse CSB, 35% state, 30% rearers as well as yarn conversion with stifling beneficiary chamber

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Apart from this, in the service sector, there is a lump sum crop insurance support of Rs 1.6 crore for all sectors across all states to cover 50% of the cost of the premium paid by the DoS to the insurance company. The state implements this in the form of master policies for 50-100 beneficiaries, depending on the nature of the sub-component and its density. The cost is shared as between the CSB (50%), the state (25%) and the beneficiary (25%).

Health insurance for all sericulturists and sericulture workers with a premium of Rs 1,000, plus 12.36% service tax, for a family of five (self, spouse and three dependent family members). In 2014-15, the CSB’s share was 75% of the premium and tax for 24,000 beneficiaries with an allocation of Rs 2.4 crore.

Development of Community Based Organisations (CBOs) in line with the Resham Doot Concept

Under this programme, 20 farmers are encouraged to take up sericulture activities and form a Sericulture Cluster Group (SCG). Support is provided under different phases as the group matures. The unit cost to set up an SCG is Rs 1.77 lakh, with a sharing pattern of 60% by CSB, 36% by the state and 4% by the beneficiary, with a target of 1,000 groups.

The assistance provided in different phases is mentioned in the Table 3.26 below.

Activities Phase-1 Group formation, motivation, meetings and stationery Phase-2 Plantation development support through CDP, health insurance, grainage activities, common facility centres, etc.; working capital for inputs and distribution among members and non-members Phase-3 Networking of SCG, formation of Cluster Level Association (CLA) comprising 10 SCGs; planning and implementation of CDP programmes through CLAs with funds routed through the DoS

The NGOs or Cluster Development Management Agency (CDMA) are encouraged to take up sericulture projects by engaging with CLAs.

Convergence with MGNREGS

Both the Catalytic Development Programme (CDP) and Mahatma Gandhi National Rural Employment Guarantee Scheme (MGNREGS) have similar objectives of livelihood security and wage employment. This in particular aligns with the programme for augmenting tasar host plants through block plantations.

Under convergence with MGNREGS, CSB will provide technical support and develop a Package of Practices (PoP) evolved by research institutes in different clusters, as well as cost norms. CSB will also ensure onward linkages through CDP schemes so that cocoon production is strengthened to enhance income.

DoS will identify land and the beneficiaries in the area; and provide training, inputs such as seedlings from kisan nurseries and extension services on soil treatment and plantation. To ensure participation of the beneficiaries and long-term sustainability, the SHGs in the village will be mobilised and para extension workers will be engaged to provide services.

The gram panchayat will be the implementing agency and will maintain all records and make payments.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The allocated cost norm for a plantation of 1 ha is Rs 1.02 lakh, of which (MGNREGS will contribute 89%, CSB 3% and the beneficiary 8%. The cost of Asan/ Arjuna seedlings, vermicompost, anti-termiting, transport and intercropping will be shared by CSB and the beneficiary. The beneficiary will also bear part of the costs for basin formation, weeding, and cultivation of the bund crop.

The annual maintenance cost per ha has been allocated for three years at Rs 1.57 lakh, with MGNREGS bearing 87%, CSB 4% and the beneficiary 9%.

The programme will be jointly monitored by CSB, DoS, District Programme Coordinator and Project Officer of the district; nodal officers will be subsequently designated.

Other Central programmes

Under the seed sector, there are allocations for the capacity building and training of Adopted Seed Rearers (ASRs), private graineurs, and other need-based focused training programmes. The duration of the training programmes is between one and four weeks, for which Rs 4,200 has been allocated per trainee. The total funds budgeted for 2015-16 are Rs 52.1 lakh for 1,240 persons.

Additional programmes for strengthening the seed sector in 2015-16 and 2016-17, through restructuring and deepening ongoing schemes, are shown in Table 3.27.

Programmes Revised targets for the remaining period Assistance to ASRs for chawkie gardening – 0.1 ha 1,660 units Assistance to ASRs for maintaining block plantations 1,660 units Assistance to tasar rearers for basic and nucleus seed rearing 1,660 units Assistance to ASRs for disinfectants to eliminate disease- Rs 2,200 per farmer for 1,660 units causing pathogens Assistance to Adopted Private Graineurs to process 40,000 Rs 3 lakh for the grainage building, equipment, cocoons to produce 6,000 DFLs consumables, working capital, purchase of seed cocoons, incentives, insurance coverage, etc. 450 private graineurs to be supported Assistance to mobile testing facility for monitoring disease Nine mobile testing units to be supported at a unit cost of Rs and testing seed cocoons 7 lakh Door-to-door service agent for disinfection of block 46 door-to-door service agents at a unit cost of Rs 1.5 lakh. plantations and input supply to rearers Unemployed youth and entrepreneurs to be provided motor cycles or three-wheelers with disinfecting equipment such as power sprayers and safety devices Grainage building at government farms (under Rashtriya Rs 72 lakh for three buildings Krishi Vikas Yojana - RKVY) Tasar bandhu for technology transfer (RKVY) Rs 8.56 lakh for 16 tasar bandhus

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 3.28 gives the details of the MKSP programme from 2013-14 to 2015-16. PRADAN has been implementing this programme to promote large-scale tasar sericulture-based livelihoods in Bankura and Paschim Medinipur districts of West Bengal.

Total outlay Rs 617.26 lakh

65% MoRD; 21% CSB; 14% beneficiaries /credit Beneficiaries 2,654 Basic DFLs 50,000 Commercial DFLs 5,10,000 Reelable cocoons 2.91 crore Block plantations 130 ha

946 ha regeneration BSPU 1 Nursery farmers 30 Nucleus seed rearers 40 Basic seed rearers 155 Grainage 39 Commercial rearers 1,236 Rearers’ collective 4

The programme is expected to produce Rs 7.56 crore of output, with women’s institutions being the principal implementing body. It would cover 748 SHG members and promote 37 community service providers.

The key expected outputs of the project are: Enhanced family incomes by Rs 10,000-Rs 18,700 for 60% of the participating women through tasar sericulture by

 Building the capacity of all participating families in adopting skills to effectively and profitably engage in livelihood activities based on tasar sericulture;  Introducing improved technologies and practices to push productivity for accelerated growth in the tasar sector;  Strengthening the seed sector to eliminate the key supply constraint in tasar sericulture;  Investing in the creation of alternative market mechanisms to ensure fair prices for cocoons;  Promoting producers’ collectives to provide sustainable systems of services to producers; and  Design development and dissemination.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

State programmes

The different state government programmes offering support to enhance tasar pre-cocoon activities are briefly presented below in Table 3.29.

Programmes Details Special Input support for seed rearers (NPK, urea, vermicompost, Jeevan Sudha, cleaning, mulching and input scheme application for 10 person days equivalent to Rs 4,000/beneficiary) Crop insurance support premium paid for the first and second crop – Rs 197 per 100 DFLs and Rs 237 per 100 DFLs in the third crop Personal accident cover of Rs 50,000 for rearer, spouse and two children, as well as house Cocoon marketing support through the Raw Material Bank Support of Rs 5,000 for purchase of earthen pot for government grainages per unit General Training of rearers in new areas scheme Sapling purchase for plantations and maintenance costs Subsidy on DFLs of between 17% and 50% Seed and pierced cocoon purchase at support price

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

4. Yarn Conversion

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

4.1 History and background

According to the Directorate of Sericulture, there are 1,300 tasar reelers and spinners in West Bengal, of whom 90% practise traditional “thigh-reeling,” and 3,830 weavers. The state produced 42.19 MT of raw silk and 22.19 MT of silk waste in 2013-14. Bankura has about 644 reelers and spinners, primarily in Bishnupur; 461 in Paschim Medinipur, primarily in Gopiballabpur; and about 500 reelers and spinners in Tantipara of Birbhum district. There are 16 primary cooperative societies federated at the state level as the Paschim Banga Resham Shilpi Samabaya Mahasangha Ltd (Resham Shilpi), which was founded in 1956.

Reeling, spinning and weaving are activities that are integrated into the entire family of a weaver. Usually, the younger women in the household process the cocoons into reeled and spun yarn. The yarn is further woven into cloth by men and by the older women in the family. West Bengal is unique in effectively utilising tasar waste through further processing. Very innovative techniques and instruments have been locally developed to process tasar waste into interesting products.

Literary sources such as the Katha Sarit Sagar (6th Century CE) testify that silk products passed through the port of Tamralipta (now Tamluk-Medinipur); later Mughal rulers, local zamindars and temples were great patrons of silk in the region. Central Asian traders, the Dutch, the French and the British East India Companies carried out extensive trade in silk. Quilts of embroidered tasar on cotton or jute, with Indian and European motifs, were commissioned by the Portuguese. Walter Clavell, a merchant of the British East India Company, mentions in 1676 that huge quantities of tasar were available from the Balasore port in Odisha. Tasar was thought to be a kind of grass and not silk; it was known as “Tester”, “Tessa” and “Herba.” Streynsham Master, an agent of the British East India Company in Madras (now Chennai), started trading in tasar in 1679 by sending some trial samples to England. Thomas Wardle promoted tasar in Europe, especially at the Paris Universal Exposition in 1878; by 1900, French manufacturers in Lyons were importing 183 MT of tasar yarn every week. Tasar was preferred for its strength as it is considered three to four times stronger than mulberry, lustre and durability. Printed tasar fabrics became fashionable in England and France and were used for furnishings and clothing. Italian manufacturers in Milan had also been successful in producing the finest yarn in the reeling machines Tavellete Keller. Tasar silk thread was tested by Macclesfield manufacturers in England as sewing silk; it was described as “simply perfection” and a “serious influence on China and Canton trade.” Thomas Wardle’s experiments in Germany in 1870 led to the production of seacloth from previously unusable tasar silk waste, which proved to be a big boost for tasar trade from India.

The Dictionary of Economic Products of India by Sir George Watt (1898), the Monograph of Silk Fabrics of Bengal by N.G. Mukerji (1903) and the Bengal District Gazetteers (1908-10) all mention a flourishing tasar processing industry in different parts of what is now West Bengal. These mentions are as follows:

Murshidabad: Tasar cocoons were reeled in French filatures of M/s Loius, Payen & Co., Lyon, at Bajrapara and Narayanpur factories near Berhampore with cocoons sourced from distant places. In 1886, the company with five filature units exported more than 50 MT of reeled tasar as well as large throwsters to Italy and France. The yarn was used in warp with mulberry silk to produce the finest fabrics by M/s Viallar Gueneua and Chartron, M/s Lamy and Giraud, and M/s Deveux and Bachelard of Lyon in France, and was shown at the Paris Exhibition in 1889. Dyed tasar yarn was also used in manufacturing brocades with ornamental patterns. The yarn would sell for 19 to 21 francs (30 -70 deniers) per kg in 1890.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Hooghly: Fabric made of tasar and a mixture of tasar and cotton was manufactured in several villages by 300 to 350 weavers in the Jahanabad subdivision, especially under Goghat police station, comprising Bali-Diwangunj, Shambazar, Badanganj, Kristoganj, Bettiah, Kayapata, Kalagachia, Radhaballabpur, Ramkrishnapur, Phubi, Hajipur, Mogeshgeria, Kirtichandrapur, Debkhanda and Gosainbazar. Tasar saris (4.6 m x 1.14 m and 2.74 m x 0.79 m, priced at Rs 6 to Rs 6.50 per piece), dhuti (4.6 m x 1.1 m) and chudder called jors as well as material for dress-making (9.1 m x 0.9 m, priced at Rs 11 per piece) were the main products sold in the local markets or Ghatal, now in Paschim Medinipur district. These were sold at Rs 11 per piece and while the saris had a red and black border, the dhutis were of two types – chausuti (priced at Rs 7 per piece) with two ply yarns in both warp and weft and der-suti (priced at Rs 6 per piece) with a single ply warp and a two ply weft. Tanti communities were primarily engaged in the enterprise along with other castes. The weavers were given an advance by local mahajans who further sold the cloth at the Ramjibanpur and Ramkrishnapur haat (local markets), in Medinipur and Howrah, respectively.

Tasar spinning was carried out in Sripur, Madhubati, Bairi, Hajipur, Kirtichandrapur, Borjo, Gosainbazar, Shambazar and Baburampur villages, and in many cases, these families were weavers as well. The activity was restricted to women, especially widows. Most of the cocoons originated from what are now Purulia and Singhbhum districts in Jharkhand.

Tasar yarn was bought at Rs 7 to Rs 8 per seer of 70 tolas (~ 816 gm, meaning Rs 9.19 per kg) directly from the weavers in Sultanpur in Ghatal, and also from Manikhat, Raipur and Salepur in Jahanabad subdivision.

In Badanganj, Kethe or Mukata, which is a coarse fabric, was manufactured by about 10 weavers. It was made from pierced cocoons bought by Marwari dealers in Calcutta (now Kolkata) and Orissa (now Odisha). Garba suti suits were made from a blend of tasar and cotton yarn (size – 9.1 m x 0.91 m, price Rs 8 per piece).

Tasar cloth was used during weddings and festivals ; it was considered a ‘sacred’ fabric and hence worn by widows as well. The market was slack during the monsoons when weavers switched to weaving cotton.

Bardhaman: Tasar spinning and weaving were carried out in the Sadar and Katwa divisions; it was practised by 186 Tanti families in five villages of Galsi police station, and by 43 families in three villages of Satgachia police station. Through the efforts of Radhicananda Ray of Amdanga, an officer in the employ of Nawab Nazim, tasar cocoon rearing, silk spinning and weaving flourished in 12 villages of Katwa subdivision, employing 500 primarily Tanti families. Cocoons were both grown in the district as well as bought from Chaibasa in Singhbhum, Sonamukhi in Bankura, from Cuttack as well as the Santhal Parganas through Oriya traders and others in Rajagarm in Bankura. In 1885-86, Bardhaman produced 56,910 maunds (1.42 MT) of tasar; but with the decline in forest cover, the increasing cost of procuring cocoons from far off regions, changes in fashion in Europe and competition from European firms, the industry declined. In 1888-89, 20,000 kahan (2.56 crore cocoons) valued at Rs 2.8 lakh were bought from Singhbhum to produce 3,35,000 yards (~ 3,00,000 metres) of cloth valued at Rs 1.61 lakh and sold in the markets of Calcutta. In 1908-09 about 70,000 yards (63,700 m) of tasar cloth was produced, valued at Rs 75,000. The tasar cloth produced in Bagtikra and Memari was of excellent quality and sold to Madras and Bombay. Locally, 10 cubits (4.4 m) of tasar cloth was sold at Rs 7 to 8. In Kalna subdivision, tasar yarn was manufactured, priced at Rs 15 a seer (Rs 18.38/ kg).

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Medinipur: Traders from Anandapur and Keshiari would buy cocoons from Junglemahals and provide these to weavers. Tasar weaving was carried out in the villages falling under police stations Keshpore, Kesiari and Narayanpur. Here various sorts of dhutis, saris and thans (rolls) of silk were woven and sold locally or in Calcutta. Two kinds of special coloured cloths were produced: Mayurkanthi where red tasar yarn was used for the warp and green for the weft, and Pitambari where red was used for the warp and yellow for the weft. With imports of cheaper cloth from England, the local weaving industry suffered and in 1903, weavers were not able to make even Rs 10 per month from weaving. Annually about Rs 40,000 to Rs 50,000 worth of cloth was produced in the district along with Rs 3,000 worth of yarn. In 1886-87, the Bengal Silk Company opened a tasar factory in Ghatal in Paschim Medinipur to produce continuous reeling thread. This resulted in the price of cocoons almost doubling.

Fig 4.1- Silk loom in Ghatal (Medinipur), 1873

Birbhum: Tasar spinning and weaving was carried out in the villages of Karidhu, Kalipur and Tantipara along with scattered units across 20 other villages with some 200 to 300 families being engaged in it. The weaving centres were located in the western part of the district as well as in Ilambazar. The cocoons were largely obtained from the Santhal Parganas district. Tasar cloth in the form of dhutis (Rs 3 to Rs 6 per piece), saris (Rs 4 to Rs 8 per piece) and rolls (Rs 7 to Rs 8 and Rs 10 for pakwan thread) were manufactured to a length of 10 yards (9.1 m). These were sometimes dyed with aniline and natural dyes. In 1907- 08 about 110 maunds (4.4 MT) of tasar yarn was manufactured, providing daily employment to 1,800 persons.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Bankura: In 1905, the industry was very well developed in Bankura district with 400 weavers in Birsinghpur, 500-700 in Bishnupur, 400 in Bankura and Gopinathpur and 1,000 in Sonamukhi, totaling 3,000 weavers who preferred tasar to cotton. Close to 10,000 people were engaged in the industry; however, for want of cocoons only a fifth (600) were engaged round the year. In the absence of cocoons, the weavers switched to cotton and then, mulberry silk weaving. Most of the cocoons came from Chaibasa and were bought by traders in Rajagarm who further sold them to the weavers. In 1886-87, about 5,800 kahan (74,24,000) cocoons were bought by weavers from Chaibasa and Calcutta. Even though European competition had cut down the weavers’ margin, a production of 11,000 pieces (~ 1,00,000 m) was recorded with a value of Rs 88,000 in 1886-87. Kethe cloth, a coarse cloth made from pierced cocoons, yielding suiting fabric priced at Rs 4 to 5 per piece, was popular in the area. Other products comprised saris at Rs 3 to Rs 8 per piece, dhutis at Rs 2 to Rs 5 per piece, rolls of silk material at Re 0.75 to Re 1 per yard or Re 0.96 per metre, and bafta or a blend of cotton and tasar fabric at Re 0.50 to Re 0.62 per piece. These products were sold locally or bought by traders from Jessore, now in Bangladesh. A weaver, assisted by his family members, could weave about 9 cubits (3.96 m) in a day.

Manbhum (now Purulia): The cocoons were either locally produced or obtained from Singhbhum; they would be transported from Chaibasa by train along the Bengal Nagpur Railway, which increased the price of cocoons from Rs 3 per kahan (1,280 pieces) in 1893 to Rs 10 per kahan in 1903. Most of the 150 weavers belonged to the Tanti caste, were located primarily in Raghunathpur and Singhbazar, and had 95 looms. In 1907-08, 20,000 yards (18,200 m) were produced. Most of the products were sold locally or sent to Calcutta and Dacca (now Dhaka in Bangladesh). The increase in the price of cocoons sent the price of silk fabric soaring, which resulted in lower sales. With the decline in forest cover and the need to source raw material from distant places, the weavers switched from tasar weaving to other occupations. Even in 1985, there were 500 weavers in Kashipur, Raghunathpur, Purulia, Daldali, Chita, Manbazar, Baghmundi and Arsha engaged in tasar weaving to produce matka, anga, basan, bapta, kete, pagri, sari and dhuti. A Tasar Silk Cooperative Society was set up in Raghunathpur in 1971.

Tasar cocoons and silk were exported in increased amounts; in 1889-90 about 41 MT of raw silk, 155 MT of silk waste and 101 MT of cocoons were exported valued at Rs 11.17 lakh; this was 31% of the total exports of all forms of silk. Tasar was used in the production of pile fabrics, embroidery silks, trimming materials, hankerchiefs, dress silks, carpets, rugs, velvets, curtains, shawls, opera shawls, lace, elastic webs, printed fabric and for embossing.

Forced agreements, seizing of goods and workers, forced sales, prohibitive duties, monopoly, and severe oppression by the British East India Company in the late 18th century, especially after the Battle of Plassey in 1757, resulted in the great decline of weaving as an activity. To quote William Bolts in The Considerations of Indian Affairs (1772), “for weavers daring to sell their goods, and dalals and pykars having contributed to or connived to such sales, have by Company agents, been frequently seized and imprisoned, confined in irons, fined considerable sums of money, flogged and deprived in the most ignominious manner, of what they esteem most valuable crafts. Weavers also upon their inability to perform such agreements as has been forced upon them by the Company’s agents, have had their goods seized, and sold on the spot, to make good the deficiency; the winders of raw silk called Nagaads, have been treated also with such injustice, that instances have been known of their cutting off their thumbs, to prevent their being forced to wind silk. This last kind of workmen were pursued with such rigour during Lord Clive’s late Government in Bengal, from the zeal of increasing Company’s involvement in raw silk, that the most sacred laws of the society were atrociously violated; for it was common thing for Company’s sepoys to be sent by force of arms to break open the houses of

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Armenian merchants established at SyDabad1 (who have from time immemorial, been concerned with silk trade) and forcibly take the Nagaads from their work and carry them away to English factories.”

With the advent of European factories and exports of tasar cocoons and silk, the native industry and internal consumption greatly declined; to quote the Saturday review of 14 October 1876, “the work of tasar silk weavers has so fallen off that the Calcutta merchants no longer do business with them.”

To quote Sir George Watt (1897), “At present market rates it will not pay to collect the cocoons and the manufacturers’ price is no longer obtainable for his goods, so that the reelers and weavers alike have to abandon their ancestral trades and take to other more profitable forms of earning a living.

“Success in the European tasar manufactures has in fact been attended by an inverse ratio of failure of Indians. The weavers of the silk, who, once upon a time were rich and influential members of the Indian city communities, have had to close their looms and seek other and more lucrative employments – a truly disappointing picture in contrast with the triumphant statements of the prosperity which we are told has been effected through the enlightened action of the helping hand of European enterprise.”

An example of the intensity and voluminous enterprise it was can be found in the report of R. Montgomery of 1837 where he quotes that 9,99,436 pieces of tasar goods were manufactured in just one district of Azamgarh, now in Uttar Pradesh, annually. There were 3,121 looms at work producing goods worth Rs 22.72 lakh annually. However in just 50 years, by 1887, the government reports showed: “No weaving of cloth worth the name is carried out….” The story was not very different in other districts then and even after 129 years, the enterprise is not any way near its past glory.

Fig 4.2- Tasar embroidery on muslin – 1795 (L), Tasar handkerchief – 1850 (Centre), Tasar parasols – 1925 (Right)

1 An exclusive Armenian colony founded around 1665, now in SaiDabad in Dhaka, Bangladesh

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

4.2 Traditional post-cocoon operations

Once the cocoons were procured, they would be hung on cloth over boiling water (in some cases they were put in boiling water) until the pupae died. After drying in the sun they would be placed in a vessel containing water (about 400 cocoons in an iron pot containing 6.4 l of water), cattle urine or dung and potash or saji (crude carbonate of soda), and boiled for between 30 minutes and an hour. The bottom of the pot would be lined with a small mat to prevent the cocoons from burning. In Paschim Medinipur, the cocoons would be boiled in alkaline water containing Fuller’s Earth (Calcium Magnesium Silicate) and in Bankura, in water containing wood ash. After boiling, the alkaline water would be thrown and the cocoons transferred to a clean pot where they would be kept in the sun for three days. The mouth of the pot would be tied with a thin cloth to prevent dust and damage by insects and birds. On the fourth day, the cocoons would again be boiled with 2.1 l of water for about an hour and poured on a basket and allowed to cool. They would then be washed with cold water and spread out on a bed of cowdung and ash to dry, with a cloth on top to keep them clean. In six hours they would be ready for reeling. Depending on the need, five to 10 cocoons would be taken for spinning when still damp and soft, to make finer or coarser cloth. The spinning would usually be exclusively done by women in the family in their spare time at dawn for three hours and in the afternoon for three more. The spinner would take four to five cocoons and remove the outer shell called jhuri; this would be sold to potters to use as a brush to paint on their wares. After this, the cocoons would be pinched to draw out the threads. The upper covering of the cocoon would yield a sort of coarse silk called Jhuri or Locha (in Medinipur) and Latha (in Manbhum); this would be extracted using a bigger spindle or the Latai/ Natai. The finer yarn called the Lak followed the Jhuri. The cocoons would be kept to the left of the spinner and as the thread passed over the right thigh, they would twist it slightly with the left hand before passing it on to the Latai. The best cocoons, priced at Rs 10-12 per kahan of 1,600 cocoons, would produce five tolas of silk (58.28 gm) from 1 pon of 80 cocoons (0.73 gm/cocoon), while the worst cocoons, priced at Rs 5-6 per kahan of 1,600 cocoons, would produce 2.5-3 tolas of silk (0.4 gm/cocoon). The cocoons from the Santhal Parganas usually had a higher of silk at about 1.37 gm per cocoon. The spinners would make about 2 seers (1.63 kg) of yarn a month and the best quality would sell for Rs 8- 14 a seer (Rs 13.48 per kg). The average monthly earnings were usually below Rs 2, with about 1 anna (Re 0.06) a day as the prevalant wages. The spinners would mix oil, dirt and potato starch to increase the weight of the yarn. The Locha yarn, priced at Re 0.61/kg, would be used to make coarse cloth called Kathia.

Fig 4.3 - Tasar silk reel of the 19th century at the Victoria & Albert Museum – London

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

After the spinning, the yarn would be wound and warped (Parani or Nari Tana). A paste from popped paddy, khoi, would be prepared and about two to four Latai of raw silk would be loosely draped on the floor. The ends of the skeins would be attached to another Latai held by the right hand and the yarn would be transferred to this Latai by turning it with the right hand, while passing the yarn through the thumb and index fingers of the left hand in which the popped paddy paste would be applied from time to time in small quantities. After this, the yarn would be further soaked in cold water and passed in a similar manner two to three times before it was ready for weaving. The finest yarn was thus prepared by doing this nine times; a task that required precision was that of joining the two ends, as this could make the cloth coarser.

In Manbhum, bamboo strips about 88 cm long would be planted on the ground about 1.3 m apart. Each post would consist of two sticks that would meet at the bottom with two upper ends about 88 cm apart, thus forming a triangle with the vertex on the ground. A person would go from the first to the last post and back again with two reels of yarn, briskly arranging the threads in two layers on two sides of the posts. The number of posts would vary with the length of the fabric. Bithuri Kara, or arranging the lines of the yarn, was the next step, where the posts would be taken up and the warp with the sticks through would be placed in the horizontal position. Each line of yarn would be carefully arranged one after the other, and the breadth of the fabric would thus be obtained. The rice water, locally known as mar, would be brushed on with a brush or kushi made of grass locally known as khas khas (Andropogon muricata). The product would then be taken to the loom and folded round a wooden roller, with the other end tied around a second wooden roller above. The lines of the yarn would be passed through a combed lime structure called sana, which would separate each line of yarn from the other.

For the weft, the yarn was reeled into the nuli using a charkha placed inside a socket called maku (shuttle). Typically a pit loom was used to weave the cloth. The weaver could make 20 yards (18.2 m) in a month, earning 5 to 6 annas a day (30 to 36 paise/day); the cloth would sell for 50 paise to Rs 1.36 per yard (Rs 1.02/ m).

Tasar silk was hardly bleached with soap or alkaline materials; if necessary the silk would be put in warm water for a few seconds and then washed in cold water. It was reported that tasar cloth, if put in boiling water for a while or in any alkaline material, would lose its shine and weight. The recommended method for cleaning was to wash in cold water with a little soap.

Table 4.1 gives details of the different materials used to dye tasar.

Location Dye Materials Bankura Violet and red Aniline dyes Yellow Turmeric and kamala fruit (Mallotus phillipensis) powder Medinipur Red and high red Lac and lodh (Symplocos racemosa) bark Yellow Type of earth resembling yellow ochre (hydrated iron oxide) and found locally Turmeric Wood of jackfruit Green (fast) Mix of turmeric and indigo, boiled with alum Purple Barks of the peepal tree (Ficus religiosa), boiled with alum and mixed with indigo Mixes Pitambari and mayurkanthi Manbhum Yellow (fast) Dust over the wild fruit kamalaguri

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

4.3 Current post-cocoon activities

The principal centres of post-cocoon activities in tasar continue to be Bishnupur and Sonamukhi in Bankura district, Raghunathpur in Purulia district, and Tantipara in Birbhum district. Even though a number of tasar reeling machines have been distributed, more than 90% of the tasar yarn produced is from traditional thigh reeling. It was reported that in Bankura and Paschim Medinipur districts, only 20 reelers use the Motorised Reeling and Twisting Machines (MRTM) machines. The Centre for Women’s Development Studies (CWDS) in Boroghutu has two MRTM and two spinning machines, but these are not used due to poor viability and the lack of skill in tasar reeling.

Bishnupur

In Bishnupur there are 18 tasar enterprises out of which five or six are of reasonable scale and work mostly with tasar round the year. About 30,000 kahan (38 million cocoons) are annually processed in the area. There are 800 to 1,000 reelers, 100 to 150 spinners and just five to 10 weavers. Annually about 15 MT of reeled yarn and 60 MT of spun silk is produced in Bishnupur with their principal markets being in Bhagalpur, Bihar, and Bhagaya, Jharkhand.

Jogesh Chandra Pal has been a traditional weaver entrepreneur working in Bishnupur producing tasar yarn and fabric. According to him, Daba cocoons are purchased from traders in Bankura and Paschim Medinipur districts as well from government farms. They are also procured from Deoghar, Godda and Paschim Singhbhum districts of Jharkhand. The purchase price in 2014-15 was Rs 3,200 to 3,500 per kahan (Rs 2.62/piece) from West Bengal (Daba TV), while in Jharkhand (Daba BV), the price was Rs 4,000/kahan (Rs 3.12/piece). The unit purchased 2,500 to 3,000 kahan of cocoon at Rs 1 crore and pierced cocoons worth Rs 40 lakh in 2014-15. The enterprise also has subsidiary units in Makdia district, Odisha, and in Paschim Medinipur.

The unit has a self-purchased stifling chamber that cost Rs 60,000, which can process 18,000 cocoons in one cycle. Depending on the duration of storage, half or quarter stifling is done and these are stored in rat-proof rooms sprinkled with Gamaxene (Benzene Hexachloride-BHC) and Folidol (Parathion) to prevent ants. Cocoons are boiled with soda (400 gm per kahan) and soap (one sunlight bar per kahan) on gas ovens.

Only thigh-reeling is done, even though there are nine MRTM and five spinning machines that had been obtained at 75% subsidy. The reasons cited for not using these were unavailability of space, poor supply of electricity, and the reelers’ lack of skill in using these machines. Traditional thigh-reeling is carried out as described in section 4.2, the only difference being that nine to 10 cocoons are taken at a time for reeling. Each kahan generates 1.3 kg to 1 kg (0.89 gm/cocoon) of yarn, depending on quality, along with 500 to 600 gm of Latha No. 2 as reeling waste taken on the bigger Latai. In a typical day, a reeler produces 150 to 200 gm of yarn at a wage of Rs 108, in all earning Rs 600-700 for every kg reeled, which happens in six days. The reeler also keeps the dead pupae which are locally sold to traders at 25 paise a piece for fresh ones, earning Rs 155 per day. About 95% of the reeled yarn, gachi suta, is sold at Rs 4,000/kg to Champa in Chhattisgarh, Bhagalpur in Bihar, Bhagaya in Jharkhand, Tantipara in Birbhum district, Shantipur in Nadia district for booti work, and in Murshidabad district. This is primarily used in weft and can also be used in warp if given a twist; Jogesh Chandra Pal says that he in fact had developed a twisting machine, which was appreciated by the Central Silk Board (CSB).

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The Latha No. 2 generated can also be sold at Rs 1,550/kg or converted into Kete Suta or Neti No. 2 on a takli or a drop spindle. Usually Kete Suta is made by old women in their spare time, who produce 30 to 40 gm in a day. A kilogram of Latha No. 2 generates 900 gm of Kete Suta No. 2 and 100 gm of waste, called Bach, which is retained by the spinner. Kete Suta No. 2 is locally sold at Rs 2,500/kg to produce coarse fabric, while Bach is sold at Rs 150/kg by the spinners to the spinning mills in Maldah who convert it into Chit Suta for fabric. Each kahan also generates 300 gm of peduncles, which are sold at Rs 280/kg and bought primarily by Maldah mills.

The enterprise has 220 reelers and produced about 5.3 MT of reeled yarn (47% in Bishnupur) along with one MT of Latha No. 2 in 2014-15. Kete Suta No. 2 is not usually produced by the unit due to lack of spinners.

Table 4.2 shows the economics of producing 1 kg of reeled yarn.

Items Quantity Unit cost Amt (Rs) (Rs) Cocoons 1,126 pieces 2.87 3,232 Carriage 1,126 pieces 0.02 22 Boiling cost 1,126 pieces 0.04 44 Reeler’s wages 1 kg 650 650 Total cost 3,948 Reeled yarn 1 kg 4,000 4,000 Latha No. 2 0.55 kg 1,550 852 Peduncle 0.264 gm 280 74 Gross income 4,926 Net income 978

The unreelable, flimsy and pierced cocoons are converted to Latha No. 1 in a locally-developed carding machine called the Togli. This machine, priced at Rs 500 each, has a small drum set up on a metal frame with a handle; after the cocoons are boiled (150-200 gm soda and half a bar of Sunlight soap per kahan), the filaments are pulled and rolled on to the Togli drum under moist conditions to produce Latha No. 1. Once it has reached some thickness, the Latha is removed and dried in shade. A kahan of cocoons generates 800 gm to a kg of Latha No. 1 (0.78 gm per cocoon). In a typical day, a spinner can produce 1.5 kg of Latha No. 1 earning Rs 100/kg. Spinners thus make about Rs 150 per day. The Latha No. 1 is locally sold at Rs 2,300 per kg and can also be converted to Kete Suta (Neti) No. 1 on Takli. Each spinner makes about 30 to 40 gm of yarn in a day during spare time, earning Rs 250 per kg along with the Bach (waste), which is completed in about a month. Kete Suta No. 1 is sold at Rs 2,800/kg and used to make yardage, chador, etc.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The unit has 20 spinners; the rest of the spinning is done through sub-contracted agents; in 2014-15 they produced 2.1 MT of Latha No. 1 and 36 quintals of Kete Suta No. 1. Items Quantity Unit cost (Rs) Amt (Rs) Cocoons 1,424 0.7 997 Carriage 1,424 0.02 28 Boiling cost 1,424 0.02 28 Spinner’s wages - Latha 1.11 kg 100/kg 111 Spinner’s wages - Kete Suta 1 kg 250/kg 250 Total cost 1,414 Kete Suta No. 1 1 kg 2,800 2,800 Peduncles 0.334 gm 280 93 Gross income 2,893 Net income 1,479 Net income (only Latha No. 1) 602

As is observed, the margins are higher for Kete Suta No. 1, but it takes more time to produce. It takes at least a month to produce 1 kg, thus more of Latha is directly sold.

Reelers often contract respiratory problems due to inhaling tasar scales. They believe this can be relieved by consuming jaggery. Reelers did not report any skin problems because of thigh-reeling. Since the reelers earn comparatively poor wages, they often add rice powder or tamarind rind during reeling to increase the weight of the yarn; the spinners also take some Latha during spinning which is not accounted for.

Reelers sell the fresh pupae to local traders at 25 paise per piece; these are further sold to local communities for consumption; fresh pupae are considered a medicine for blisters on the tongue. Dried pupae are sometimes bought in bulk by Maldah-based enterprises for use as manure or fish feed.

Since yarn is mostly bought in cash, the enterprise prefers making yarn rather than fabric; thus only 5% of the yarn is converted to fabric. The main product is yardage, either combining tasar and tasar, or Korea and tasar. Even though there are 300 weavers in Bishnupur, not more than five or 10 are engaged in tasar weaving. Most are engaged in the weaving of the famous Baluchari and Swarnachari saris that primarily use mulberry silk.

The enterprises obtain working capital from banks, moneylenders, as well as government loans. They had received two loans of Rs 2.5 lakh and Rs 10 lakh under the Bangla Swanirbhar Karmasansthan Prakalpa (BSKP) programme, with a subsidy of Rs 50,000 and 100,000, respectively.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.1- Sorting cocoons for reeling (L), Thigh reeling of tasar cocoons (R)

Plate 4.2- Preparation of Latha No. 1 on Togli from unreelable cocoons

Plate 4.3- Drying Latha No. 1 (L), Spinning Kete Suta on Takli from Latha (R)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.4- Katia spinning (L), Reeler with Gachi Suta and Latha (R)

Katia Yarn

Latha no-1 Thigh Reeled Yarn Latha no-2 Kete Suta-2 Thigh Reeled Yarn Kete Suta-1 from Pierced Cocoons Plate 4.5-Different types of tasar yarn

Murli Monohar Pal is unique in that he is the only person who extracts yarn from peduncle in Bishnupur. His father, the late Chandrashekhar Pal, started doing this as it required less capital. Currently, peduncles are bought from the local trader at Rs 250/kg; Pal boils about 2 kg of peduncles with 250 gm of soda and 50 gm of soap for three to four hours using firewood. After boiling, the peduncles are beaten to loosen the fibres and washed, rinsed and dried in the sun. The waste is sorted out and the resulting mass is further carded with cotton (3:1) using a modified carding machine which was developed by Murli Manohar himself. This is followed by rolling slivers of peduncle-cotton, which is further converted into yarn on the Gandhi or Ambar charkha by spinners at the local Gandhi ashram.

From a kilogram of peduncle about 400 to 450 gm of yarn is recovered, which is sold at Rs 900 per kg along with 50 to 100 gm of waste (Bach) that is sold at Rs 100/kg to the Maldah mills. The yarn is used to make coarse cloth in the weft mixed with cotton in the warp. Murli Monohar produces about 3 quintals of yarn annually in his spare time.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 4.3 shows the economics of producing 1 kg of yarn.

Items Quantity Unit cost Amount (Rs) (Rs) Peduncle 1.76 kg 250/kg 440 Boiling cost 1.76 kg 20 35 Cotton 250 gm 150/kg 38 Spinner’s wages 1 kg yarn 150/kg 150 Total cost 663 Yarn 1 kg 900/kg 900 Waste 132 gm 100 13 Gross income 913 Net income 250

Plate 4.5- Making peduncle-cotton sliver for spinning

Waste- Bach

Peduncle-Cotton Cloth

Peduncle mass

Peduncle-Cotton Yarn Cleaned Peduncle Peduncle-Cotton Mass Sliver

Plate 4.6-Peduncle yarn processing

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

A visit was made to the Training and Service Centre in Bishnupur in Bankura district. The centre has three MRTM machines, three spinning machines and one re-reeling machine. There are four staff members who also provide training on reeling and spinning. In 2015-16 about 30 trainees had participated in the training programmes primarily from the Ramakrishna Mission in Modgoda and the Leprosy Colony in Peerdoba. In all, 16 MRTM machines were taken, with the others being located at Jaipur, Changdoba and other centres. The machines are offered at 75% subsidy and the trainees are given a stipend.

The new stock of cocoons is boiled for 30 minutes, and the old stock for 45 minutes with 20 gm of soda for 300 cocoons along with Sunlight soap (5 gm for 300 cocoons); charcoal is used as fuel. From one kahan, 800 to 1,150 gm (0.762 gm/cocoon) of reeled yarn is recovered along with 300 gm of waste. From one kahan of pierced cocoons, 1 kg of spun yarn (0.78 gm/cocoon) is recovered. The reelers, operating two spindles, can produce 70 to 80 gm yarn in a day, while spinners can produce about 100 gm in a day. The price of reeled yarn is Rs 3,800/kg while that of spun yarn is Rs 1,800/kg in local markets in Bishnupur as well as in Maldah; spun is preferred to reeled yarn. Tasar waste is purchased by the spinning mill at Maldah at Rs 100/kg while peduncles are sold at Rs 500/kg. All the products are sold through a tendering process. The pupae are not used and often thrown; however, it was reported that the water in which the cocoons are boiled is given to cattle as a protein supplement and the dried pupae are used in the manufacture of dog biscuits.

Plate 4.7 - Demonstrating spinning at the training and service centre at Bishnupur

Sonamukhi

In Sonamukhi, there are 200 weavers engaged in tasar-related activities; however, no reeling or spinning takes place in the area. About 13,000 m of tasar-based yardage is produced in a year at the rate of 6.5 m per loom per day. Gachi Suta and Kete Suta are used for the weft with Korea 37 denier for the warp.

The main product is yardage (than) of 13 m either of Korea 37 with Tasar Gachi Suta or Korea 37 with Tasar Kete Suta. For one metre of cloth, about 15 gm of Korea 37 denier yarn and 46 gm of Tasar Gachi Suta and 50 gm of Tasar Kete Suta yarn is used, costing Rs 538 per metre and Rs 292 per metre, respectively. The yarn is primarily bought from Bishnupur, from Raghunathpur in Purulia and from Odisha. The weaver weaves 1 than (13 m) in two days, earning Rs 500. It was alleged that the wages are so low that weavers keep about 100 gm of yarn with themselves. Tasar is usually not dyed, but if required, simple tub-dyeing is done.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The yardage is sold to wholesalers in Kolkata and in Srirampur; further embroidery is done at Bolpur in Birbhum district and block printing at Bishnupur and Srirampur.

There are two Weavers’ Cooperative Societies and a Khadi Society manufacturing tasar fabric in the area. Most weavers’ programmes are not being implemented, apart from intermittent supplies of loom accessories.

Gopiballabpur

Tasar reeling and weaving is carried out in Jagannathpur, Odichamot and Bhattagopalpur villages of Gopiballabpur block in Paschim Medinipur district. In Jagannathpur, there are more than 300 tasar reelers and about eight to 10 tasar weavers, primarily belonging to the Sahu community. The annual demand for reeled tasar yarn is about 1.2 MT; about 420 kg of yarn is annually procured from Makdia in Odisha by the local weavers. About eight to 10 MRTM machines had been given to the village, but they are not functional. A Weavers’ Cooperative Society (WCS) called the Gopiballabpur Block Tasar O Cotton Tantubai Samabaya Ltd was established in 1981. There are 152 members and tasar, scarves and chadors were made; however the cooperative is currently not functioning.

Paresh Chandra Sahu of Jagannathpur won the President’s Award as the Best Tasar Weaver for 2012-13. Coming from a very poor family, he has been weaving since he was 20 years old. Currently he buys cocoons from traders and from the Khadi Village Industries Commission (KVIC) Jhargram at Rs 3,700-3,800 per khari (1,600 cocoons) equivalent to Rs 2.34/piece and produces 9.6 kg of reeled yarn every month for about nine months in a year, totalling 86.4 kg.

The cocoons are steam heated and sun-dried to kill the pupae, and then kept in sacks sprinkled with Gamaxene. They are boiled with 50 gm of soda per kahan and Sunlight soap using about a bundle of firewood. The use of soda is carefully regulated as it’s believed that a high amount of soda reduces the strength of the yarn. The women reelers carry out traditional thigh- reeling with five to six cocoons in a cycle. About 1,600 cocoons (1 khari) yield 1 kg of yarn (0.62 gm/piece) and 400 gm of Latha No. 2. The reelers can produce about 100 gm of yarn and 38 gm of peduncle in a day, earning Rs 40 per day. Pupae are not locally put to any use and hence thrown away. The peduncles sell in Bishnupur for Rs 50 to 60 per kg.

The reeled yarn is sold at Rs 4,200 per kg to local weavers or is used in the weft of the fabric with Korea 37 denier yarn in the warp. Latha No. 2 is valued at Rs 850 per kg and is further converted into Kete Suta No. 2; this task usually falls to the older women of the family who use a Takli. A kilogram of Latha No. 2 yields 800 gm of Kete Suta No. 2; the spinners keep aside some of the yarn with themselves as their wages are low. The spinners produce about 40 gm of Kete Suta No. 2 in a day during their spare time or in between household tasks such as milling rice. They earn Rs 300 per kg and their produce sells for Rs 1,350 per kg. However, price fluctuations are quite high in Latha and Kete Suta when compared to reeled yarn.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 4.4 shows the economics of producing 1 kg of reeled yarn.

Items Quantity Unit cost (Rs) Amt (Rs) Cocoons 1,600 pieces 2.34 3,744 Boiling cost 1,600 pieces 0.04 64 Reeler’s wages 1 kg 400 400 Total cost 4,208 Reeled yarn 1 kg 4,200 4,200 Latha No. 2 400 gm 850 340 Peduncles 375 gm 55 21 Gross income 4,561 Net income 353

Margins are comparatively less here than in Bishnupur, where Daba BV cocoons with higher yarn recovery are used; margins in the case of Kete Suta are even lower.

Spinning or Latha No. 1 production is not done in the area; in recent times, though, Ghicha production on earthen pots has been started.

Tasar is usually not dyed, but in case there is an order for dyed tasar, tub-dyeing is locally done in colours such as maroon, red, yellow and orange using napthol dyes.

In the 1990s, there were 20 to 25 tasar weavers, but now there are only eight to 10. The average turnover per weaver is about eight thans of 12 m each (96 m) every month, totalling 10,000 m annually. The principal yarns used are Korean 37 denier purchased from Bishnupur at Rs 4,600/kg) for the warp and reeled tasar for the weft; mulberry yarn is used in the borders. Each sari of 6.5 m requires 125 gm (19 gm/m) of Korean 37 denier yarn and 300 gm (46 gm) of thigh-reeled yarn. Chador and jackets are manufactured with tasar and Kete Suta or just Kete Suta. The yardage is sold for Rs 460 per metre to KVIC – Jhargram, Makdia as well as Bishnupur. Each sari costs about Rs 3,200.

A weaver can produce about four metres of fabric in a day; and since tasar needs tight weaving, it takes more time than cotton. The wages are Rs 450 for a than of 12 m (Rs 37.50/m); KVIC deducts 10% of the wages. For a sari, which takes two days to weave, the weavers get Rs 650-700. Thus a weaver’s family earns Rs 150 per day if they weave a than and Rs 337 per day if they produce a sari.

Paresh Chandra Sahu received Rs 25,000 in all, as part of the Best Weaver Award as well as some other local awards.

The programme has built 48 worksheds in the village and provided insurance to weavers. A Jacquard loom has also been provided, but it’s not used.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.8- Sundrying cocoons (L) and Cocoon cooking (R)

Plate 4.9- Thigh-reeling of cocoons (L) and Weft-reel spinning

Plate 4.10- Tasar weaving in weft (L) and Thigh reeled yarn and sari (R)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.11- Spun tasar yarn and chador (L) and spinning Kete Suta on a Takli (R)

Plate 4.12- Maldah Type-2 reeling machine (L) and WCS building at Jagannathpur (R)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.13- National Award Winner Paresh Chandra Sahu (L) in front of his workshed (R)

Jhargram The Jhargram Khadi and Village Industries Association is an A+ grade unit engaged in the production of tasar yarn and fabric. The cocoons are purchased from neighbouring regions in West Bengal, Jharkhand, and Odisha, as well as from Maharashtra. In 2015, Daba BV cocoons were purchased at Rs 3,000/kahan (Rs 2.34/piece), TV at Rs 2,650/ kahan (Rs 2/piece) and pierced cocoons at Rs 950/kahan (Re 0.74/piece). Annually about 450,000 cocoons are locally purchased, and 300,000 from Maharashtra.

The unit has an electric stifling machine built at Gajalakshmi Industries in Bengaluru for Rs 1.25 lakh. About eight kahan (10,240 cocoons) can be processed in one cycle lasting eight to nine hours. However, it was reported that in spite of stifling the cocoons using the machine, there is pupa emergence; moreover, the machine takes lot of time and electricity. The cabinet of the machine expands on heating and this too affects operations. Currently, the cocoons are stored in sacks after stifling; plans are on to store them in trays inside wired cabinets.

The unit is associated with 161 reelers who primarily belong to the Sahu (Other Backward Classes – OBC) community. There are five wet reeling machines, four Motorised Reeling and Twisting Machines (MRTM) machines and three paddle-operated machines, five spinning machines as well as 10 re-reeling machines. Apart from this, the unit is also experimenting with the newly-developed reeling-and-twisting machine developed by the Silk Conditioning and Testing House (SCTH) in Maldah. However, most of the yarn is reeled through traditional thigh-reeling.

A kahan of tasar BV cocoons yields 1 kg of reeled yarn (0.78 gm/piece) and 350 gm of Latha No. 2 while Daba TV cocoon yields 750 to 800 gm (0.6 gm/piece) of reeled yarn and 380 to 400 gm of Latha No. 2. A kilogram of Latha No. 2 after cleaning yields 750 gm of Latha No. 1. Kete Suta is spun using the takli with 80% recovery; spinning machines are not adequate for the job.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The reeled yarn valued at Rs 4,000/kg is largely converted into fabric, while Latha sells for Rs 900 to 1,000 per kg and Kete Suta for Rs 1,100-1,200 per kg. Peduncles are sold in Bishnupur at Rs 120 per kg; the pupae don’t have any use in particular, though some use it as fish feed.

The reelers can make 80 gm of reeled yarn in a day and earn Rs 550 for a kilogram along with 10% ex-gratia, which gets them Rs 48 per day. The Maldah machine has been the most effective in reeling; here, the yarn is first reeled without twisting on three spindles and is then twisted as required (through a pulley variation) on separate spindles. A reeler can produce 150 gm of yarn in a day and earns Rs 400 and 10% ex-gratia, totalling Rs 63 per day. The untwisted yarn is used for the weft, while the twisted yarn is used for the warp. In this manner, it is possible to weave 100% tasar fabric instead of resorting to the Korean 37 denier yarn. However, since the weavers have become accustomed to the Korean yarn over three to four decades, they do not prefer to work with the twisted tasar yarn for the warp.

The unit has a dyeing facility and can directly dye yarn or Latha. Acid dyes are generally used, but experiments with vegetable dyes such as tea leaves are also being tried.

Table 4.5 shows the economics of producing 1 kg of reeled yarn.

Items Quantity Unit cost (Rs) Amt (Rs) Cocoons 1,600 pieces 2 3,200 Boiling cost 1,600 pieces 0.04 64 Reeler’s wages 1 kg 605 605 Total cost 3,869 Reeled yarn 1 kg 4,200 4,000 Latha No. 2 390 gm 950 370 Peduncles 375 gm 120 45 Gross income 4,415 Net income 546

There are 10 to 12 spinners who make Ghicha yarn on pitchers; each spinner produces 350 to 400 gm of yarn in a day and earns Rs 250/kg, totalling Rs 83 per day. The yarn is sold for Rs 1,100-1,200 per kg.

The unit has 55 weavers, out of whom 21 are engaged in tasar weaving; the unit has 27 hand looms, one semi-automatic Chittaranjan loom and eight Jacquards. There are two godowns, two weaving sheds and a warping unit. The principal yarns used are Korean 37 denier, reeled tasar, Ghicha and Kete Suta. About 850-900 gm of yarn is required for one than of 12 m (73 gm/m).

The main products are than (12 m) and saris, priced at Rs 2,200/piece, which are sold at six retail outlets, one in Jhargram, one in Medinipur, two in Haldia and two in Kolkata, as well as from KVIC shops. The annual turnover is about Rs 1 crore out of which 25% is from yarn. Embroidery and printing is done outside according to the orders received.

The weavers can produce six thans in a month or about three metres in a day and earn Rs 450 per than (Rs 112/day) or Rs 500 per sari of 6.5 metres (Rs 167/day). The unit provides a prepared beam and Nalli (the bobbin used in the weft) to the weavers to speed up production and reduce household labour.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The Central Silk Board (CSB) has conducted several rounds of training: On spinning for 70 participants, on reeling for 25 participants and on cocoon cooking for five people. Kolkata University has conducted training on dyeing. Most of the KVIC schemes are being implemented by the organisation.

The unit has participated in international fairs and has exported stoles to Bangladesh, with assistance from CSB, as well as provided furnishing samples to the Weavers’ Service Centre. It won the National Award in 2011 and one of the weavers mentioned above, Paresh Chandra Sahu, won the Best Weaver Award in 2013.

Plate 4.14- Cocoon stifling machine (L), Wet reeling machine (R)

Plate 4.15- Jacquard loom (L) and Dyeing (R)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Tantipara

Tantipara, along with Khoiradih, Karidhya, Hetampur and Kedula, has historically been a traditional tasar processing centre. There are about 500-600 tasar reelers belonging to the traditional Tanti community), 150 spinners and more than 170 weavers in the area (200 were looms reported by Rajshekhar et al in 2007-08). The area has a Weavers’ Cooperative Society and 10 Khadi Societies. The cocoons are purchased from Bankura and Jharkhand; there is a Raw Material Bank (RMB) promoted by the Directorate of Sericulture (DoS) and managed by the Ma Sarada Resham O Tasar Swanirbhar Dal that was established in 2012. In 2015-16, they purchased 500 kahan (640,000 cocoons) of Daba TV (54% in Grade A) from the Khatra Cocoon Market in Bankura. In 2014-15 they had procured 857 kahan (10,09,000 cocoons) and in 2013-14, they had procured 250 kahan (3,20,000) from Purbi Singhbhum and 100 kahan (1,28,000) from Dumka district in Jharkhand. Ninety five per cent of the recent purchases have been of Daba TV since BV cocoons are not available to a large extent in West Bengal. Sarihan cocoons are rare and Raily is not preffered due to problems with boiling. In 2015-16, the cocoons were purchased at the following rates based on grade determined by size and toughness (Table 4.6).

Grade Rate (Rs/kahan) Rs/piece A 2,800 2.19 B 2,550 1.99 C 2,250 1.76

Pierced cocoons are not very popular in Tantipara, thus only 800 pieces were procured in the current year.

About 6,000 kahan (76,00,000 cocoons) and 500 kahan of pierced Daba BV cocoons (6,40,000) were bought by private traders in the area against an annual demand of 10,000 kahan (12.8 million), 90% from this purchased from Jharkhand. Apart from this, 10 kahan (12,800 cocoons) of Sarihan were also bought from Kathikund in Dumka district of Jharkhand. There are agents who buy cocoons from traders in Jharkhand, particularly from Dumka and Godda districts, at a commission of 2%. There is an old norm of cocoon sale in Tantipara, that in every kahan of 1,280 cocoons, 36 to 40 extra cocoons are taken, in all amounting to 1,320 cocoons in a kahan.

Table 4.7 shows the rates of cocoons purchased by commission agents in Tantipara.

Cocoon type Rate (Rs/Kahan for 1,320 cocoons) Rate/cocoon (Rs) Daba BV (second crop) 3,000 to 3,500 2.27 to 2.65 Daba BV (first crop) 2,900 2.20 Sarihan 1,600 to 2,000 1.21 to 1.51 Pierced cocoons 1,650 1.25

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The traders who come into town to sell to the commission agent are given boarding and lodging for three to four days till their cocoons are sold. The carriage cost is borne by the traders. The entire stock gets sold largely on the spot between the months of November and January, while pierced cocoons are sold in July and August. The cocoons are protected from rats and ants by sprinkling Gamaxene powder. No stifling of cocoons is done apart from sun-drying.

Apart from traditional thigh-reeling that dominates reeling activities in the area, there are about 150 MRTM machines along with 140 Maldah Type-1 (reeling machines with no twisting) developed by the Silk Conditioning and Testing House (SCTH) in Maldah. About 400 have been sanctioned and 40 reelers have been trained in operating the Maldah Type-2 (reeling machine with both twisting and reeling); the supply of machines is awaited. The MRTM machines are not used for reeling, since it leads to a high eight twists per inch that cannot be varied, when compared to the 1.5 twist per inch in case of thigh-reeling; the machines however have been modified as twisting machines for thigh-reeled tasar yarn for use in the warp. Maldah Type-1 machines are also not preferred, since thigh-reeling yields a better quality of yarn. The machines were obtained at 75% subsidy (Rs 3,625) from DoS.

The cocoons are boiled with soda and soap in gas stoves for reeling; the Central Tasar Training and Research Institute (CTR&TI) – Ranchi has also experimented with baking powder (Sodium bicarbonate, Calcium phosphate, Sodium acid pyrophosphate and cornstarch). About six to seven cocoons are taken at a time for reeling following the traditional techniques described in earlier sections. A powder made from popped paddy, called khoi, is used during the reeling at 10 gm /kg of yarn for increasing adhesion. Some reelers also use mustard oil and water while reeling for greasing the filaments.

A kahan of cocoons yields 1 kg of reeled yarn (0.78 gm/cocoon) and 600 gm of Latha No. 2 under traditional thigh-reeling. The Maldah Type-1 machine produces 800-900 gm of reeled yarn (0.70 gm/cocoon) and 700-800 gm of Latha No. 2. Thus the productivity of reeled yarn is higher in thigh-reeling, which is also the reason for its preference. About 20 years ago, Sarihan cocoons from Jharkhand were used in warp threads due to their higher strength and lustre. A kahan of cocoons would yield 500 gm (0.39 gm/cocoon) of reeled yarn and 400 gm of Latha.

The reelers produce 60-90 gm of yarn in a day and earn Rs 500 a kg, totalling between Rs 29 (Rs 38 including the pupae) and Rs 42 (Rs 55 including the pupae) a day. The fresh pupae are sold by the reeler at Re 1 for eight to 12 pieces to local traders, who further sell them to the Bauri and Bagdi communities. These communities consume the pupae as it is considered a rich source of protein and vitamins. The fresh pupae are available only between November and February; the dry pupae are usually not preferred; they sell at Re 1 for 20 pieces and are made into a sour dish. The peduncles were earlier converted to Ghicha yarn, but are now directly sold in Maldah, Bhagalpur and Bhagya at Rs 260- 280 per kg.

Reeling is usually done in spare time for about 20 days a month, round the year. Ninety per cent of the yarn produced is locally used for fabric production, primarily as a fibre for the weft. The yarn is valued at Rs 4,000-5,000 per kg depending on its quality while Latha sells for Rs 1,500-1,600/kg. The Latha is sold in Bishnupur, Murshidabad and Maldah.

The Latha is further converted into Katia yarn on a pedal-spinning machine; a kilogram of Latha yields 800 gm of Katia yarn and 150 gm of waste; about 150 gm of Katia yarn is produced in a day, at a wage of Rs 250/kg. The waste can further be converted into Ghicha yarn at a recovery rate of 90%; about 150-200 gm can be produced in a day at wages of Rs 60/kg.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The Katia yarn sells for Rs 2,200/kg and Ghicha sells for Rs 900/kg. Conversion from Latha to Katia is more popular in Chak Islampur in Murshidabad district.

For making the warp thread, a thigh-reeled yarn Latai is attached to an MRTM machine, yielding twisted yarn. About 250 gm of yarn is produced in a day, with reelers working for 10 hrs, earning Rs 350/kg (Rs 87.50 per day). The activity does not take much labour but covers supervision and electricity costs.

Table 4.8 shows the economics of producing 1 kg of reeled yarn.

Items Quantity Unit cost (Rs) Amt (Rs) Cocoons 1,600 pieces 2.38 3,808 Boiling cost 1,600 pieces 0.04 64 Reeler’s wages 1 kg 500 500 Total cost 4,372 Reeled yarn 1 kg 4,000 4,000 Latha No. 2 600 gm 1,550 930 Peduncles 375 gm 270 101 Gross income 5,031 Net income 659

The weavers voiced some the following reasons for why machine reeling is not popular:

 Machine reeling results in more waste.  The weight of yarn is less even when the length is the same, since the gum and other traces of substances are removed through stretching and twisting.  Since the machine continuously winds the yarn, the broken ends are joined manually at places away from the point of breakage, resulting in unevenness. In thigh-reeling, the winding on the Latai is stopped and the yarn is unwound to bring it to the point of breakage, which results in superior yarn.  More recovery of silk products is possible; there is no waste that is thrown away, except for the pupae.  Machine-reeled yarn is not uniform and thus gets stuck in the reed of the loom and may snap.  Machine-reeled yarn does not settle as well in the fabric as thigh-reeled yarn.  Machine-reeled yarn does poorly both in terms of wear and life.

There are 150 spinners in Tantipara who produce Charkha Katia on a pedal charkha. The flimsy Chopa (Re 0.87/piece) and pierced Phuki cocoons (Re 0.69/piece) are used for spinning. About 1,040 flimsy (0.96 gm/piece) and 1,280 pierced (0.78 gm/piece) cocoons are required to produce 1 kg of Katia yarn and 100-200 gm of waste called Bach, which is sold at Rs 100/kg). The spinners produce 100 gm of Katia yarn in a day and get Rs 250 per kg. The Charkha Katia yarn sells for Rs 1,400 per kg in Bishnupur and Maldah and is used in the weft. Spinning is more popular in the nearby villages of Laujo, Tendulbandh and Kheriabandh.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 4.9 shows the economics of producing 1 kg of Katia yarn.

Items Quantity Unit cost (Rs) Amt (Rs) Cocoons 1,149 0.78/pc 896 Boiling cost 1,149 0.02 23 Spinner’s wages 1 kg 250 250 Total cost 1,169 Katia yarn 1 kg 4,000 1,400 Peduncles 269 gm 270 73 Gross income 1,473 Net income 304

For preparing the warp on drum, the wages are Rs 100 for five thans (Rs 20 per than of 13 m) which can be done in three to four hours; thus 10 thans can be produced in a day.

There are no dyeing units, but tub-dyeing is carried out as a cottage industry in different establishments. Acid dye of different colours is generally used. Each sari costs Rs 150, with the yarn costing Rs 400 per kg and wages of Rs 150-200 per day for dyeing.

The primary yarns used in Tantipara are Korea 37 denier, and MRTM-twisted thigh-reeled tasar for the warp and thigh-reeled tasar, Katia and mulberry for the weft. Yarn from Sarihan cocoons was earlier used for the warp, but this has stopped due to its unavailability. Apart from Korean yarn, China 50 denier and Vietnam yarns are also used.

A than of 13 m with tasar in its warp and weft weighs 950 gm (73 gm/running metre) while a blend of Korea and tasar weighs 800 gm (61 gm/running metre). Thus thans made exclusively with tasar are more expensive and have limited markets. The main products are saris, thans and shirting, costing Rs 410 per metre.

The weavers can produce four metres in a day of yardage comprising Korea 37 and tasar, earning Rs 500 for a 13 m than at Rs 125 per day, when compared to 2.6 m of exclusively tasar yardage, earning Rs 800 for a 13 m than at Rs 160 per day. This activity engages two to three persons for weaving, reeling and bobbin work. About six thans of the Korea and tasar blend and five thans of the exclusively tasar yardage can be produced in a month.

The weavers get cash and credit facilities of Rs 25,000, but this proves inadequate due to the high price of cocoons. The Weavers’ Cooperative Society (WCS) was not very successful due to unfair practices such as financial irregularities and political interference. Further, the fabric market is risky as margins are poor, leading to credit payment overdues and defaults at times.

As mentioned before, the Korean yarn is preferred to tasar in the warp since it is uniform, smoother, and involves a fewer number of steps to wind it in the warp beam.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

There are eight steps for using the tasar yarn in the warp, while only three for the Korean yarn (steps six to eight in the figure below Fig 4.1):

Drawing and Reeling-1 Twisting-2 Warping-3 Sizing-4 drafting-5 Suto Kata Pak Dewa Puruni Madi Tason

Setting Warping Fixing reed-6 proper-7 heads-8 Weaving Shana Dhal Baw -

Block printing and painting by hand is also done, costing Rs 250 and Rs 500 per sari, respectively. Artisans get Rs 150-200 per day as wages for block printing and painting by hand. About 300 persons in the area are engaged in this activity.

Embroidery (kantha stitch) is primarily done in villages in around Bolpur-Santiniketan by women; the wholesaler or retailer, based on orders, provide the cloth, and accessories such as needles, cotton threads and the frame, for embroidery work on saris, kurtas, blouses and chadors. The rates per piece and the estimated time taken for embroidery are in Table 4.10 below:

Fabric Time taken per piece Wages paid per piece (Rs) Sari 6 months to 1 year 1,500 to 2,000 Blouse 15 days 80 to 100 Kurta 15 days to 1 month 400 Chador 2 months 600 to 1,000

The principal markets for embroidered tasar are in Delhi and Mumbai, where the starting price is Rs 4,000 per sari.

The Demonstration cum Technical Service Centre (DCTSC) at Suiri in Birbhum district provides training on the operations of the Motorised Reeling and Twisting Machines (MRTM), which are two-stage spinning and twisting machines developed by the Silk Conditioning and Testing House (SCTH) in Maldah. Training of two batches of 20 participants, over 10 days each, has been completed; four Field Awareness Programmes have been held. About 150 Maldah Type-2 machines have been distributed in weaver clusters and 250 more are being developed at Maldah. The centre reported that there is a good demand for and interest in the new machines. However, cocoon cooking with hydrogen peroxide, one of the methods recommended by the Central Silk Board, has not been accepted or practised by the weavers in the area as they feel it reduces the quality and durability of the yarn.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.16- Cocoons at RMB – Tantipara (L), Stifling chamber – Maldah type (R)

Plate 4.17- RMB –Tantipara (L), Maldah Type-2 Machine (R)

Plate 4.18- Maldah Type-1 Machine (L), Reeling and weaving tasar (R)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.19- Setting reed (L), Drawing and drafting (R)

Plate 4.20- Warping tasar (L-R)

Plate 4.21- Using MRTM machines to twist thigh-reeled yarn for use in warp

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.22- Katia charkha (L) and Tasar pupa (R)

Plate 4.23- Hand painting in progress (L) and a hand-painted sari (R)

Plate 4.24- Block prints (L) and a block-printed sari (R)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.25- Saree embroidery (L) and Blouse embroidery (R) – Bolpur area

Plate 4.26- Kurta embroidery (L) and embroidery on tasar cloth

Plate 4.27- Tasar embroidery on black cloth (L), Embroidery on tasar cloth (R)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Maldah

Though there is not much activity relating to tasar in Maldah district, due to the traditional mulberry industry in the region and the presence of the Silk Conditioning and Testing House (SCTH) here, several innovations have been initiated and developed around reeling, spinning and use of silk waste.

Starling Silk Mills Private Limited at Sujapur in Maldah district has been a pioneer in processing silk waste into high quality yarn. The company was established in 1996 by Md Azizur Rahman, whose family has been involved in traditional mulberry rearing since 1908. Since childhood, Aziz had seen the byproducts of mulberry rearing such as pierced, flimsy and cut cocoons and silk waste, which would be just thrown away or partially converted into coarse yarn. By 1983, Aziz had made up his mind to start an organised industry around the use of silk byproducts.

Aziz worked with Bengal Silk Industries to produce degummed silk and in 1996, Starling Silk Mills took over Bengal Silk Industries to produce valuable spun silk yarn from mulberry, tasar, eri and muga for saris, sweaters and material for dressmaking. The spinning mill started commercial production in 2007. Currently it is the largest manufacturer in the world of uneven matka silk yarn both single and ply, with an annual turnover of more than Rs 12 crore and a marketshare of more than 50%. The current annual turnover is 60,000 kg, which is the highest in the world. Starling had the distinction of taking a 100% spun silk sari with a unique design for the first time to the world market. The company is a pioneer in wool-silk blended yarn for knitting sweaters and for use as filler in jackets, blouses and socks. The company also manufactures matka fabric and silk-wool sweaters, shawls, and material for dressmaking under the brandname Anisha, which is well received in the market.

Across the country, most of the tasar silk waste thatis generated ultimately reaches Starling Mills, where it is processed into high quality yarn. The majority of the flimsy and damaged cocoons, as well as silk waste, are purchased from Madhya Pradesh, while the remaining is obtained from Jharkhand and Odisha. Fig 4.2 details the steps involved in the production of yarn.

Steaming Lapping Cutting Carding Gilling Combing Roving Spinning

The tasar waste contains both long and short fibres; the short fibres are separated from the long ones. Further, mild burning called gassing is done to remove its hairiness and to improve glaze. This process yields fine quality fabric suitable for use in saris and shirting material. Peduncles are also converted into fine yarn through brushing. The yarn conversion rate is 70% in the case of cocoons and 35-50% in the case of peduncles and waste. The pupae are used as manure.

Different yarn blends of variable ply such as spun tasar, spun peduncle, Katia tasar, white bleached and tasar spun-wool have been developed. The product range includes hand-spun and machine-spun yarn. Table 4.10 shows the different types of yarn developed and their quality.

Yarn Metric count/Ply Tasar bleached White yarn Peduncle 65/1, 22/1 Tasar + Noil 25/1 Tasar + Ghicha 60/2 Peduncle for knitting NA Tasar kete 40/1

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 4.11 shows the different types of yarn produced and their price.

Yarn Rate (Rs/kg) Peduncle 1,200 to 4,000 Tasar waste spun 1,250 to 1,300 Tasar waste spun for knitting 3,200 Tasar kete 2,200 to 2,800 Tasar bleached 4,000

The yarn is dyed with Azo-free dyeing as well as with vegetable dye in indigo, three types of yellow, black, four types of green and maroon in the dyeing unit. The company has a tie-up with the Viswa Bharati University at Santiniketan for dyeing. The vegetable dyes cost Rs 250-500 per kg. About 24 kg of yarn can be dyed in one batch, with each batch taking 15 kg of dye per colour.

Seventy per cent of the yarn produced is sold, while the balance is converted into fabric at Phulia in Nadia district. Spun tasar yarn of 120 counts is used in the warp and 20-60 counts in the weft.

The main markets within the country are in Bhagya, Delhi, Varanasi, Bhagalpur, Raigarh and Champa, while exports are mainly to Japan, the United Kingdom and the US.

Plate 4.28- Tasar waste (L), Washing the waste (R)

Plate 4.29- Washed waste (L) and Steam drying the waste (R)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Plate 4.30- Lapping tasar waste (L) and Carding after lapping (R)

Plate 4.31- Roving tasar waste (L) and Spinning yarn (R)

Plate 4.32- White tasar waste yarn (L) & Dyed yarn ready for dispatch (R)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Tasar Waste

Peduncle Knitting Yarn -22 Yarn

Peduncle Tasar Waste Yarn-65 +Ghicha-60

Tasar waste + Peduncle Noil-25 + Kete Yarn - 40

Plate 4.33- Different types of yarns produced from Tasar waste

The Silk Conditioning and Testing House (SCTH) at Maldah has developed two reeling machines. The first one is a cottage basin type with three ends for the production of untwisted yarn to be used in the weft. This machine, developed at Suiri in Birbhum district in 2014, is being manufactured at Maldah. It has a production capacity of 200-250 gm of yarn in a single sitting of five hours. The machine can be mounted on a stand. Its current price is Rs 21,000, which was considered too low to be viable for the manufacturer. The reelers reported that cooking with hydrogen peroxide yields better results in this machine when compared to cooking with soda, which requires the yarn to be twisted to increase cohesiveness. The machine has been tested in Tantipara, Deoghar, Ranchi and Bilaspur.

The second type of machine, developed by Dr Ashish Pal and his team in 2014 and tested in 2015, is a two-step reeling and twisting machine. In this machine, reeling is done on three spindles first, followed by twisting in the second step. The machine has a crosier mechanism to increase inter-twisting. A variable twist can be given, with 0-10 twists per inch (tpi). For the warp 8 tpi is used and for the weft 2 tpi is preferred. The machine has a productivity of 200-250 gm of yarn in a sitting of six hours. A motor (0.25 hp and 5,000-5,500 rpm) provides the twist; the cone-belt mechanism results in twist variation, and the speed of the machine can be increased according to the skill of the reeler and the type of cocoon used. As the rate at which the yarn is taken up increases, the twist invariably decreases and vice versa; in this machine, the rate of insertion of the twist has been fixed at seven inches. The machine costs Rs 25,000 and about 80 machines have been developed.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The prototype of a spinning machine, Spintex, has also been developed. This machine prevents the variation in the twist which is found in the ring-spinning machines available in the market. The ring-spinning machine has three twist zones, and since the twist flows from thick to thin, it begins with a false twist when spinning is initiated, followed by a period of no twisting and finally, a uniform twist at the core of the bobbin. The machine that has now been prototyped prevents such twist variations; it also allows for the degree of the twist to be varied based on a stop device and belt mechanism. About nine such machines were developed and are being tried out.

Plate 4.34- Spintex machine prototype developed at SCTH-Maldah

Table4.12 shows the details of the two machines.

Machine Developed Production/day Denier Twists/in Ends Power Operators Price by (Rs/unit) Maldah -1 SCTH 200 to 250 gm 65 None 3 Motor 1 21,000 Maldah- 2 SCTH 200 to 250 gm 65 0 to 10 3 Motor 1 or 2 25,000 Twin charkha CTR&TI 100 gm 90 None 4 Manual/Motor 2* 15,000 MRTM CTR&TI 90 to 100 gm 65 8 4 Motor 1 15,000 Unnati CTR&TI 100 gm 60 8 2 Solar 1 26,000

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Some of the issues that arose in the course of our discussion on the intrinsic properties of the tasar filament and the process disadvantages in reeling tasar when compared to mulberry or oak (Korean yarn) tasar are as follows:

 Drying cocoons in the direct sun weakens the yarn due to its exposure to UV rays; dry stifling for five to seven hours is effective.  The addition of alkaline substances such as soda while cooking the cocoons destroys the sericin of the tasar filament. Thus wet reeling is not efficient, yielding only 600-650 gm/kahan when compared to 1,100 gm in dry reeling. Wet reeling also reduces the cohesiveness of the filaments and thus requires a twist to be used in the warp. However, oak tasar has a high content of sericin and thus does not need this twist. Wet reeling is also possible with oak tasar due to high filament cohesiveness. Poor cooking is one reason for increased breakage in Raily cocoons.  Cooking with hydrogen peroxide increases cohesiveness and maintains sericin content, but affects the natural colour and is thus not preferred.  The non-breakable filament length (NBFL) of tasar is much lower than that of mulberry; thus even a very skilled reeler can carry out tasar cocoon deflossing and casting of at the most five to six cocoons in a minute, when compared to 20 cocoons for mulberry, thus reducing the productivity of tasar reeling.  Since each filament of tasar is eight to 10 deniers, it is difficult to carry out reeling with only five or six cocoons as the resulting yarn is likely to break on twisting. Thus, at least seven to eight cocoons are required to yield a 65-70 denier yarn, which can at the most get 10 twists per inch. Oak tasar and mulberry have a filament diameter of three to four denier, and thus more cocoons can be used during reeling.

A study of the tasar yarn markets by Rajshekhar et al mentions that there were 1,500 tasar weavers in Fulia in Nadia district in 2007-08; currently there are none, even though there are more than 100,000 weavers in the region, with six Weavers’ Cooperative Societies (WCS). The principal yarn used for the warp is Korean or Chinese and mulberry or cotton for the weft. The main reasons for not using tasar yarn are poor quality and poor returns when compared to alternatives.

The principal concerns raised around post-cocoon activities are as follows:

 WCS are corrupt and not functional; they do not pay bonuses and do not have either facilities or the capital for cocoon purchase.  The margins in the fabric market are poor, and further ridden with credit payment overdues and defaults.  The cash-credit assistance of Rs 25,000 for weavers is not enough as yarn prices are high.  Political patronage negatively affects talent and worksmanship.  The new generation is not interested in the vocation due to a lack of returns.  Poor returns, the scarcity of raw material and high prices are leading to lower incomes, prompting weavers to switch to other vocations.  There are no pension funds for weavers.  Weavers do not get health check-ups or address problems with eyesight.  Tasar lookalikes such as artificial silk and Kera silk sell in the market for Rs 60/m; the resulting price war has made tasar unviable.  A weaver’s home is small and therefore accommodating reeling machines is difficult.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

 Tasar weaving has become a low-intensity activity due to poor demand.  Poor finish, knots, non-uniformity, and the high denier of yarn as compared to alternative yarn, discourage the use of tasar.  Tasar yarn processing and weaving involves several steps and weavers are not interested in putting in the effort without adequate returns, especially when cheaper and convenient alternatives are available.  Maintenance of reeling machines is a problem, especially owing to the difficulty in sourcing spare parts. Newer machines are of poor quality.  Absence of training, newer techniques and marketable designs are concerns.  The quality of tasar yarn is not of the standard that is necessary for producing different kinds of products.  Except the Maldah Type-2 machine, none of the other machines are able to address the requirements of weavers and products.  The poor availability of cocoons and their high price makes tasar weaving unviable.  Reeling and spinning are not standardised using the latest technology, nor are there any innovations at this stage.  Pre and post cocoon activities are not properly integrated.  Yarn banks or reserves are absent.

Fig 4.3- Product Flow Diagram (Post Cocoon)

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 4.13 summarises the details of the weaving clusters.

Cluster Reelers and Weavers Reelable cocoons Reeled Spun Yardage spinners consumed yarn yarn produced produced million MT MT M Bishnupur 800 to 1,000 5 to 10 38 million 30 15 6,750 Sonamukhi -- 200 ------180,000 Gopiballabpur 300 8 to 10 14.5 million 9 3.6 8,100 Tantipara 500 to 600 450 15.8 million 12 7.2 400,000

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

4.4 Institutions

With the exception of KVIC, there are no functional institutions in the weaving clusters that were visited, apart from private enterprises.

4.5 Schemes and programs for the post-cocoon sector

Under the Catalytic Development Programme of the 12th Five Year Plan (2012-17), the following programmes have been included for the post-cocoon (yarn conversion) sector under Vanya Silks (Table 4.14).

Components Unit Cost (Rs) Central Targets allocation (Rs) Reeling cum twisting machines 45,000 to 47,000 9.71 crore 3,000 machines Wet reeling machines (2 basins, 6 46,000 to 48,800 36 lakh 100 machines ends) 2-in-1 reeling cum twisting 64,000 to 67,000 50 lakh 100 machines machine that can carry out wet reeling and twisting in the same machine as independent activities Tasar cocoon sorting machine 51,000 to 53,000 3 lakh 10 machines Motorised/pedal-operated 7,000 2.13 crore 4,500 machines spinning machines Solar-operated spinning machines 19,000 14 lakh 100 machines Master reeler and technician 2,88000 86 lakh 50 master reelers services 10 master technicians Yarn dyeing Tub dyeing 25 kg – Rs 3.92 lakh 2.85 crore 35 tub-dyeing Tub dyeing 50 kg – Rs 6.37 lakh units Arm dyeing 50 kg – Rs 17.12 lakh 10 arm-dyeing units Vanya Silk Marketing Promotion As per project 1 crore As per project Reeling-weaving shed and 50% premium paid 80 lakh Lumpsum machinery Insurance 50 to 100 beneficiaries Health insurance Rs 1,000 + service tax premium 2 crore 24,000 for a family of five beneficiaries Developing community-based Rs 1.771 lakh per group 10.62 crore 1,000 self-help organisation for post-cocoon groups activities

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

5. Value Chain Analysis

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

5.1 Tasar value chain analysis

The tasar yarn produced passes through two basic operations, namely pre-cocoon and post-cocoon. “Pre-cocoon” involves the production of cocoons from eggs which hatch into silkworm and consume the leaves of host plants such as Asan and Arjuna. These cocoons are converted into commercial cocoons, which in turn become the basic raw material for the production of reeled and spun tasar yarn. The tasar yarn is subsequently woven into fabric.

The tasar sub-sector study was an attempt to reveal the cost analysis of each activity related to production, in and outbound logistics, marketing, sales and service.

The analysis given below (Fig 5.1) shows the consolidated information with regard to pre-cocoon activities for production of 1 kg of reeled yarn.

Fig 5.1- Pre-Cocoon Value Chain

For the production of 1 kg of reeled yarn from Daba TV, about 1,588 cocoons are required.

Thus 1 (2 gm) basic DFL when reared yields 18 TV-1 seed cocoons at 85% hatching. These, when processed at the grainage, yield 4.5 (9 gm) TV-2 DFLs. Upon further rearing, this yields 133 TV-2 seed cocoons at 80% hatching. On further processing at the grainage, this yields 44 commercial DFLs out of which 1,588 (80%) reelable cocoons are produced at 80% hatching. The process also yields 417 unreelable cocoons, 133 pierced cocoons and 501 gm of peduncle, all of which is processed into spun yarn as by-products.

Ninety per cent of the proceeds of pre-cocoon activities are retained by tasar cocoon producers. This is a rare occurrence in the livelihoods sector, where most margins are usually retained by traders.

In inputs, about 11% is primarily taken up by seed cocoon, DFLs; since most of the other inputs are subsidised in the seed sector and not used in commercial rearing, the share of inputs is low. Commercial rearing takes the major share of the margin, while TV-1 rearing and grainage has the lowest margins. Rearing absorbs 78% of the value produced by pre-cocoon activities; inputs 11% and assembling and marketing 11%. 92% of the net margin at this stage accrues to commercial rearers, 7% to seed rearers and less than 1 per cent to graineurs.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 5.1 shows the price spread analysis of the pre-cocoon activity.

Item Qty Rate Amt Item Qty Rate Amt Rs/unit (Rs) (Rs/unit) (Rs) TV-1 SEED REARER TV-3 COMMERCIAL REARER Basic DFLs 1 Tv-1 DFLs (2 g) 3/DFL 3 Commercial DFLs 44 TV-3 DFLs 3/DFL 132 (88 g) Total cost 3 Total cost 132 Seed 18 TV-1 Cocoons 1.40/pc 25.20 Reelable cocoons 1,588 TV-3 2/pc 3,176 cocoons cocoons Non-Seed 1 no 0.31/pc 0.31 Unreelable 398 nos 0.64/pc 255 cocoons cocoons Gross 25.51 Gross income 3,431 income Margin 23.51 Margin 3,299 TV-2 SEED REARER COCOON TRADER TV-2 DFLs 4.5 TV-2 DFLs (9 g) 3/DFL 13.50 Cocoon 1,588 TV-3 2/pc 3,176 procurement Cocoons Flimsy & 550 nos 0.62/pc 341 unreelable cocoons Carriage & 2,138 nos 0.10/pc 214 storage Total cost 13.50 Total cost 3,731 Seed 133 TV-2 Cocoons 1.70/pc 226 Sale of reelable 1,588 nos 2.44/pc 3,875 cocoons cocoon Non-seed 19 nos 0.39/pc 7.41 Sale of unreelable 550 nos 0.75/pc 412 cocoons cocoons Gross 233.41 Gross income 4,287 income Margin 219.9 Margin 556 1 TV-2 COMMERCIAL GRAINAGE Seed 133 TV-2 Cocoons 1.70/pc 226 cocoons Hired labour 31 Chemicals 78 etc Total cost 335 Production 44 TV-3 DFLs (88 g) 6.50/DFL 286 Byproduct 133 pierced 0.61/pc 81 cocoons Gross 367 income Margin 32

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

The Fig 5.2 below shows the value chain for post-cocoon activities (till yarn conversion) of processing the reeled cocoons obtained to 1 kg of reeled yarn and by-products.

Input Yarn Processing, Sourcing Etc. 78% 18% Assembling Marketing, etc. 4%

Tasar Cooking, Reelers Spinners Takli Spinners 98% etc. 81% 6% 13% 2%

Fig 5.2- Post-Cocoon Value Chain

1,588 cocoons obtained from the pre-cocoon stage are reeled into 1 kg of yarn, generating 485 gm of Latha No. 2. The 550 unreelable cocoons are spun into 386 gm of Latha No. 1, out of which 262 gm is further spun into 210 gm of Kete Suta 1. The process generates 48 gm of silk waste and 501 gm of peduncle. Apart from this, 1,588 pieces of pupae are also sold.

About 78% of the value created is taken up by inputs (primarily cocoons), thus increase in prices without a commensurate increase in yarn prices will hit the sub-sector. The yarn convertors get 18% share of the value chain while the entrepreneurs take 4%. For reelers and spinners who are members of the weaver’s household, the income is compensated to some extent by weaving, etc., but for independent reelers and spinners, the returns are lower than the minimum wages of the state. Entrepreneurs make margins from volume and spot payments as well as from conversion and value addition to fabrics.

Commercial rearers have the highest share of 61% of the net margin in the Tasar Value Chain. The return on investments is also higher; this is followed by reelers-spinners getting 19%.

Thus to produce 100 kg of reeled yarn, 4,799 to 6,947 person days of employment (1,440 to 2,028 person days as per minimum wages of Rs 222 per day for unskilled work) are generated with 45 to 66% share going to cocoon production and remaining to yarn conversion.

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 5.2 shows the price spread analysis of yarn conversion.

Components Qty and rates Amt (Rs) Remarks REELING Reelable cocoons 1,588 nos at Rs 2.44/piece 3,875 Cooking costs 1,588 nos at Re 0.04/pc 63 Reeler’s wages For 1 kg thigh-reeled yarn 539 Reeler’s income= 539+278 (from 1,588 pcs of pupa sold @ 17 paise per piece) = Rs 817 Total cost 4,477 Sale of 1 kg of reeled yarn At Rs4,050/kg 4,050 Sale of Latha No. 2 0.485 kg at Rs 1,225/kg 594 Sale of peduncles 0.372 kg at Rs 181/kg 67 Total income 4,711 Margin 234 SPINNING Unreelable cocoons 550 nos at Re 0.75/piece 412 Cooking costs 550 nos at Re 0.02/piece 11 Latha spinners charges 0.386 kg Latha at Rs 100/kg 39 Spinner’s income= 39+24 (from 20 gm of silk waste) = Rs 63 Kete Suta spinner charges 262 gm Latha No. 1 65 Spinner’s income= 65+60 (from at Rs 250/kg 26 gm of Latha retained and sold) +3 (from 28 gm waste) = Rs 128 Total cost 527 Sale of Kete Suta-1 210 gm at Rs 2,800/kg 588 Sale of Latha No. 1 124 gm at Rs 2,300/kg 285 Peduncles 0.129 kg at 181/kg 23 Total income 896 Margin 369 Gross expenses (including 5,369 pupa, waste, etc.) Gross income 5,607 Gross margin 238

Combining the two sections of the Value Chain and analysing the margins of different actors, the findings are in Table 5.3.

Trade point Production / Selling Margin % Share % Net Actor Acquisition cost price (Rs/kg) of final margin of (Rs/kg) (Rs/kg) price total margin Yarn 5,369 5,607 238 100 4 Yarn entrepreneur Reelers and spinners -- -- 1,012 -- 19 Reelers and spinners Cocoon trader 3,731 4,287 556 76 10 Cocoon trader Commercial cocoons 132 3,431 3,299 59 61 Commercial rearer Grainage 335 367 32 6 <1 Graineurs Seed cocoons 16 259 242 4 4 Seed rearer

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Fig 5.4 show how the value from a Basic DFL enhances as it passes through different pre-cocoon and post-cocoon stages for Daba TV.

Daba TV Cocoon Production

1,800 TV -1 13,300 TV-2 100 Basic DFL Cocoons 450 TV- 2 DFLS Cocoons 4400 C DFLs 158800 R Cocoons Rs 300 Rs 2,520 Rs 1,350 Rs 22,661 Rs 28,600 Rs 3,17,600

13,330 Pierced

100 Non-Seed Cocoons 39,800 Unreelable Cocoons Rs 8,131 Cocoons Rs 31 Rs 32,238 1,900 Non- Seed Cocoons Value Generated- Rs 4,139/DFL Rs 741

Yarn Conversion

100 kg Reeled Yarn 21 kg Kete 38.6 kg Latha-1 Rs 4,05,000 Suta-1 32% sold- Rs 58,800 55,000 Rs 28,500 158800 R Cocoons Unreelable 48.5 kg Latha 2 cocoons Rs 59,400 12.9 kg Peduncles Rs 2,300 37.2 kg Peduncle Rs 6,700

Additionally- 2.6 kg Latha-1, 4.8

kg Silk waste & 1,588 pupa Value Generated- Rs 5,674/DFL equivalent to Rs – 6,730

100

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Table 5.4 shows the employment generated in producing 100 kg of reeled tasar yarn and its by-products.

Node Materials No Person Per Actor Earnings/HH/actor days Seed Rearers TV-1 100 (200 g) DFLs 1 50 50 47 Seed Rearers TV-2 450 (900 g) DFLs 7 700 100 64 Grainage TV-2 13,300 cocoons 1 25 25 128 Commercial Rearers 4,400 (8.8 kg) 20 2,400 120 137 TV-3 DFLs Reelers 1,58,800 cocoons ~ 4 999 250 82 Latha Spinners from 55,000 unreelable 1 39 39 100 unreelable cocoons cocoons Katia Spinners from 55,000 unreelable ~ 2 401 200 63 unreelable cocoons cocoons Takli Spinners 38.6 kg Latha-1 ~9 2,488 276 17 From Latha 48.5 kg Latha-2 Katia Spinners from 38.6 kg Latha-1 ~2 464 232 37 Latha 48.5 kg Latha-2 Ghicha Spinners 11.6 kg Waste 1 59 59 11 (Latha waste) Ghicha Spinners 7.2 kg Waste 1 37 37 11 (Katia waste) Ghicha Spinners 10.4 kg waste 1 54 54 11 (Latha-Katia waste) Peduncle Spinners 50 kg peduncle 2 168 84 55 Ghicha Spinners 3.8 kg waste 1 19 19 11 (Peduncle waste)

Thus to produce 100 kg of reeled yarn, 4,799 to 6,947 person days of employment (1,440 to 2,028 person days as per minimum wages of Rs 222 per day for unskilled work) are generated with 45-66% going to cocoon production and the remaining to yarn conversion. The process also generates 1,58,800 pupae that are sold by traders, generating additional livelihoods.

101

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

5.2 Sub-sector constraint analysis

The constraints and opportunities expressed by the various actors of the tasar value chain as well as key informants are categorised:  Input supply  Technology/production process  Management/organisation  Market access  Infrastructure and environment

The following matrix Table 5.5 illustrates the constraints for the sub-sector.

Constraint Cause Features Who are Potential Existing affected interventions providers INPUT SUPPLY Lack of host trees More rearers, Sparsely located trees Rearers and Protection of existing TVS for rearing fewer trees And large distances graineurs forest cover between trees DoS-CSB Diseases and Declining forest Stop diversion of forests mortality cover Grazing pressure on for industrial and other NGOs plantations purposes Rearing inputs Lack of PRIs, Dist not available effective Poor maintenance of Develop quality Adminstration plantations plantations plantations, gap filling Forest Dept Borer attacks Limited provision for Improve maintenance of maintenance of existing plantations FPCs Drought and plantations climate change Prevent grazing through Private lands not community Poor quality of available for participation DFLs plantations Develop soil and water Lack of sanitary Lack of quality conservation measures measures and microscopy in plantations spread of contaminants Lack of seed zones Strict quality control in DFL production Limited Poor field hygiene availability of Formation of seed zones rearing inputs Lack of interest and means among rearers Ensure availability of to procure inputs on rearing inputs and their own compliance

Poor quality farm Mobilise TVS to ensure implements quality and field hygiene as well as support inputs for rearers

102

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Scarcity of Variable cocoon High price of cocoons Reelers Strengthen RMBs Reelers cocoons production Lack of quality cocoons Spinners Increase RMB outreach Spinners Fluctuating prices Limited of cocoons outreach of Corruption in WCS Weavers Yarn bank initiation Weavers RMB Make cocoons available RMB No yarn bank at subsidised rates in case of high prices DoS-CSB WCS not functional Cocoon procurement based on shell weight

Initiate reelers’ and spinners’ groups

Strengthen and revive WCS

103

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Constraint Cause Features Who are Potential Existing affected interventions providers TECHNOLOGY & PRODUCTION PROCESS Increasing attack Declining forest Limited use of nets Rearers Protecting forests TVS of birds and diversity and food and and adopting proper predators Breaking of branches, graineurs silvicultural methods DoS-CSB Poor silvicultural defoliation and for prunning and Conflicts with practices and lack clearance of pollarding using NGOs Forest Protection of understanding undergrowth quality instruments Committees and Rearers Forest Dept Poor quality DFLs, Pollarding and cutting Discussion and climate change, of big trees in forests explaning the rearing Graineurs Diseases lack of PoP process with FPCs compliance Poor quality tools and Forest Dept. CSPs Water problems in grainage Lack of handpumps Pebrine and virosis Make available inputs FPCs operations and net Lack of expertise, Weather not suited to Forest Dept Pebrine detection motivation and Daba BV rearing Maintain strict quality patience in control PHED, PRIs etc microscopy Limited maintainance of rearing field hygeine Standardise Daba BV rearing Poor detection of Pebrine incidences Install handpumps near grainage

Develop user-friendly pebrine detection kits Tasar yarn Tasar yarn Chinese yarn is Reelers Develop suitable Reelers production is production involves available in large machines based on complicated and eight steps when quantities and it is Spinners the needs of the Spinners time consuming compared to three more convenient to use weavers, involving steps in Chinese Weavers fewer complications Weavers Yarn quality not yarn Poor wages in tasar and ease of use. upto standard of yarn production Incentivise tasar yarn RMB Chinese yarn or Tasar yarn production alternatives production is Artificial alternatives DoS-CSB cumbersome and are available at cheaper Capacity building on time consuming, rates machine operations Demonstration thus with low and repair Cum Technical returns No space to keep Services Centre reeling machines in Mechanisms to (DCTSC) Reeling machines weaver’s house monitor authenticity producing yarns of tasar yarns. which are not Machine maintenance suitable for fabric is a problem; spare part production availability

104

Tasar Value Chain Analysis – West Bengal Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP)

Constraint Cause Features Who are Potential Existing affected interventions providers MANAGEMENT & ORGANISATION Weak or no Fledging Limited bargaining Rearers Nurture and develop TVS community community power Graineurs strong community institutions institutions DoS and institutions DoS-CSB Stealing of cocoons CSB staff Limited number No new Initiate recruitment NGOs of young, recruitments Grazing and cutting of drives motivated staff in trees Rearers DoS & CSB Ageing staff Provide local institutions Limited availability of conveyance based on Graineurs Limited allowance private lands for realistic assessments for local plantation CSPs conveyance Limited monitoring of field activities

No functional Unfair practices No bonus Reelers Revive and strengthen Reelers community No working capital to WCS institutions Traditional power purchase cocoons Spinners Spinners structures Initiate reelers and WCS not Cash-credit assistance Weavers spinners’ SHGs Weavers functional Political is limited interference Increase outreach of DoS-CSB Limited recognition for government schemes talent or workmanship Textile Dept Incentivise tasar New generation not products to attract the WCS ready to take up this new generation vocation

Traditional weavers shifting to other types of yarn or vocations

Pension funds, health check-up not available

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Constraint Cause Features Who are Potential Existing affected interventions providers MARKET ACCESS Fluctuating Open market for No minimum support Rearers MSP on Cocoon TVS cocoon prices commercial price for cocoons Graineurs cocoons RMB staff Ensure shell weight DoS-CSB Information Poor bargaining power as criteria for fixing assymetry with Cocoon prices of rearers price and proper NGOs respect to cocoon available in distant counting prices markets not known RMB units not Rearers Poor prices for to rearers empowered for Providing cocoon rearers decision-making based price information to Graineurs Unfair sorting by on need or confidence. rearers Cannot store traders CSPs cocoons No provisions to Establishing strong Lack of recuperate community Traders Limited role of infrastructure to establishment costs of institutions RMB store cocoons post-cocoon RMB integration Build cocoon storage Lack of value Limited outreach infrastructure at the additions and outlay for RMB cluster level

No post-cocoon Strengthen state integration RMBs

Facilitate post- cocoon integration in potential areas Demand going Availability of Consumer awareness Reelers Monitoring on Reelers down due to high artificial silk on Tasar products is authenticity of silk price and alternatives at very low. Spinner and handloom Spinners availability of low prices cheaper No community Weavers Strengthen and Weavers alternatives Lack of bargaining institutions revive WCS power DoS-CSB Payment Knots, uneveness, Develop machines for defaults, long Machine reeled breakage problems in quality yarn Textile Dept credit period yarns are not Tasar yarn; production suitable for fabric inconvenient to work WCS Machine reeled production with. Increase outreach yarn not up to and effectiveness of DCTSC standard High price of Fluctuating production cocoon banks cocoons and and price of Tasar RMB Poor margins in number of steps Initiate yarn banks Tasar make Tasar production less Develop specialised remunerative units for making ready to use Tasar warps and weft reels.

Consumer awareness on Tasar products

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Constraint Cause Features Who are Potential Existing affected interventions providers INFRASTRUCTURE & ENVIRONMENT Protection of Lack of resources Grazing and poor Rearers Quality protection of TVS plantations for fencing maintenance of Graineurs established plantations plantations RMB staff DoS-CSB Limited grainage Industrialisation, Develop grainage and infrastructure and urbanisation and Limited number of cocoon storage NGOs facilities diversion of forest decentralised grainages infrastructure land Rearers Lack of cocoon Only 1 RMB in the state Increase outreach of storage facilities RMB Graineurs

Limited capacity Protect forests and of RMB stop diversion of forest lands for industrial Deforestation projects and climate change Strengthen people’s institutions Reeling machines Limited innovations Machine reeled yarn Reelers Develop innovative Reelers not available that in developing not suitable for Reeling Machines (like can produce high machines weaving Spinners Maldah type-2) that Spinners quality yarn can produce quality suitable for Limited options for Lack of dyeing facilities Weavers yarns as per the need of Weavers weaving dyeing or other and knowhow. the weavers Limited value value added Integrate reeling- DoS-CSB additions products Limited availability of spinning-waste block printing and utilisation-dyeing- Textile Dept Tasar scales Lack of awareness painting printing, calendaring health hazard on protection from and embroidery under 1 DCTSC scales facility

Awareness generation on use of mask to avoid scale inhalation.

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5.3 SWOT analysis

An analysis of strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats (SWOT) helps in developing programmes accordingly. The SWOT analysis gives an idea of the internal strengths and weaknesses, along with the external opportunities and threats that can influence the sub-sector. Certain factors would be within the reach of the programme, while others would not be influenced. The idea is to build upon the strengths and nurture them, with a view to reducing weaknesses. Opportunities could be technology, changing business trends, competition and regulations. These could either accelerate the sub-sector or hold it back. Opportunities lost could become significant threats and similarly threats could turn into opportunities through clever management. The factors beyond control can only be addressed over time through repeated advocacy and networking towards positive change.

Table 5.6 below presents the SWOT analysis for the tasar sub-sector in West Bengal:

SWOT analysis of the tasar sub-sector in West Bengal Strengths Weaknesses  Forest cover is on the decline, leading to a scarcity  West Bengal has a traditional tasar habitat and of host plants, besides inaccessibility in Left Wing weaving clusters. Extremism (LWE) affected pockets  There are a large number of traditional and  The quantity and quality of DFLs on time is a experienced rearers and processors who depend concern. on tasar for livelihood and employment.  Extension services are limited.  The post-cocoon sector is well developed.  Community organisations are limited.  Rearing provides good returns.  Awareness on standard rearing practices is low.  There’s a good demand and a growing market for  There’s a high dependence on Chinese yarn. tasar.  There’s a scarcity of reeling machines that can  There’s a good potential for exports and foreign produce quality yarn. exchange earnings.  The supply of cocoon and yarn is inadequate to  The sub-sector has mature support institutions meet the demand. and departments.  There’s a shortage of quality cocoons and yarn.  Tasar silk is unique and has niche value.  Substitutes and fakes abound.  Tasar sericulture helps rejuvenate forests and in  The state needs more supportive policies and inter- carbon sequestration. departmental coordination.

 Benefit schemes have limited outreach. Opportunities Threats  Initiation of newly-focused projects such as the  Climate change is a big threat, as is the potential Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP) outbreak of diseases. holds promise for the sector.  Mining and industrialisation projects are eroding  There’s a rising demand for tasar in the national forest cover. and international markets.  Complementary and substitute products may take  The potential for creating community-based away the market for tasar. enterprises led by women is high.  Migration and change of vocation among weavers is  Several resource instiutions and experienced likely to affect the sub-sector. NGOs sensitive to the needs of the sub-sector are  Young people do not have a strong incentive to available. practise tasar sericulture.  The possibilities for value addition are enormous,  Changes in existing government policies or new especially in the post-cocoon sector. ones that favour Chinese yarns (through customs  There’s a huge opportunity for the production of duty) and give impetus to tasar-lookalike synthetic tasar-reeled yarn to replace Chinese yarn. fibres and spinning mills, and policies on forest  Tasar is an environmentally-sound green product. rights, mining and land acquisition will impact tasar

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 The increase in demand for carbon sequestration will benefit the sector.  There are a large number of beneficiary schemes for weavers.  Multiple opportunities exist for convergence through Mahatma Gandhi National Rural Employment Guarantee Act (MGNREGA), the Forest Department, IAP, and CSR funds in establishing plantations in view of availability of large tracts of private and forest wastelands and infrastructure.  There’s scope for demonstration and adoption of best practices and new technologies.

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6. Conclusion and Recommendations

Tasar rearing is a traditional supplementary livelihood of the local community in the selected clusters in West Bengal. The state also has one of the best-developed traditional weaving clusters, and therefore, has great potential. The presence of experienced government departments as well as capable NGOs offers unique advantages. Tasar products have seen an increasing demand across national and international markets.

A major concern is the fluctuating availability and price of cocoons. The large post-cocoon industry in West Bengal is unable to source adequate cocoons from within the state to meet demand, and has to obtain cocoons from Jharkhand and Odisha. The traditional tasar belt in the western parts of the state is also being affected by the twin issues of disappearing forests and climate change. There is an urgent need to protect and enrich the remaining natural forests as well as enhance host trees by filling the gaps in forest lands and plantations in private wastelands.

This has led to a massive decline in tasar processors, especially young people, who have moved to vocations that offer better returns. The easy availability and comparatively stable prices of competitive yarns, and the ease of working that they offer, has led to better margins and employment round the year.

The development of the Maldah Type-2 reeling machine has been appreciated by both technical experts and weavers; there is need to popularise this machine and determine its usefulness. Community institutions need to be strengthened so that people can take responsibility for bettering their own lives. Lifting of cocoons from rearers through Tasar Vikas Samitis at declared Minimum Support Prices, storage in temporary village structures, and further, sale to state and regional Raw Material Banks would help streamline cocoon availability. Setting up yarn banks can also ease the availability of yarn without going into the hassles of reeling; apart from ready to use tasar, warps and weft reels will increase convenience and production efficiency for weavers. The use of tasar waste to produce high quality yarn in Maldah shows the enormous potential that can be achieved with all by-products of tasar.

Despite these challenges and the development of alternative livelihood opportunities, tasar still has the potential to provide the maximum returns for indigenous communities in their home environment.

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Based on the learnings from the study, some recommendations are suggested in Table 6.1 below:

Pre-cocoon Post-cocoon  Produce quality DFLs through seed zones  Setting up raw material banks  Strengthen PPCs, BSPUs & de-centralised  Setting up yarn banks to ease the availability of yarn grainages  Machines for reeling and spinning based on the  Protect existing forest cover weavers’ needs and the market  Increase host plant plantations fill the gaps in  Training, capacity building and exposure on new the forest cover technologies and best practices  Make available user-friendly tools and  Incentivise tasar yarn production technology in pebrine detection apart from  Develop Hub-Spoke model on Loom-Ready tasar strengthening existing microscopy  Stress the production of high-quality reeled yarn that  Create empowered community organisations can compete with the Chinese yarn  Recruit staff in the Department of Sericulture  Utilise process waste to increase the remuneration for and other allied departments reelers  MSP on commercial cocoons  Value addition and development of a range of designs  Cocoon procurement based on shell weight  Vegetable-dyeing and blending  Infrastructure for cocoon storage, grainage,  Strengthen existing community institutions, especially etc. self-help groups  Supportive policies on habitat conservation  PGS for genuine, organic, and handmade silk  Convergence and collaboration with existing  Put in place supportive policies and incentives for programs of Mahatma Gandhi National Rural enterprises Employment Guarantee Act (MGNREGA) and  Increase outreach and service delivery of welfare the Forest Department schemes  Upgrade skills so that youth are motivated  Demonstrate emerging new technology in post-cocoon activities

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References

 A Handbook of Textiles, Ann M Collier, 1974  Annual Report, CSB, 2013-14  Bengal District Gazetteers- Bankura, L.S.S. O'Malley, 1910  Bengal District Gazetteers- Medinipur, L.S.S. O’Malley, 1910  Bengal District Gazetteers- Birbhum, L.S.S. O’Malley, 1910  Bengal District Gazetteers- Purulia, L.S.S. O’Malley, 1910  Bengal District Gazetteers- Bardhaman, J C K Paterson, 1910  Detailed Project Report for Large Scale Tasar Sericulture Based Livelihoods in West Bengal under MKSP, PRADAN-2013  Dictionary of Economic Products of India Vol-6 Part III, Sir George Watt-1893  Economics of Tasar Silk, Suresh Rai, Asst Director, CTR&TI-Ranchi  Lessons in Tropical Tasar, Ed- Dr K Thangavelu, CTR&TI, 2000  Manual of CDP Projects XII th Five Year Plan- Vanya Sector  Monograph of Silk Fabric in Bengal, N G Mukherji,-1903  Non Mulberry Silks, FAO Agricultural Services Bulletin -29, 1979  Note on the performance of Indian Silk Industry, CSB, 2014  Silk Reeling & Testing Manual, FAO Agricultural Services Bulletin -136, 1999  Strands of Life- PRADAN Handbook, 2005  Study Report-Tasar Silk Yarn, Assessing Market Potential, Nanda et al, Symbiotec Research Associates, 2008  Tasar Cocoon Handbook, PRADAN, 2006  The Wild Silks of India, principally Tusser, Thomas Wardle, 1881  Tropical Wild Silk Cocoons of India, Mohanty, 2003  Wild Silk Technology, Kavane & Sathe, 2011

Apart from this several websites of Central Silk Board and other relevant web-based information was also consulted.

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Acknowledgements

I would sincerely like to thank the contribution of various sub-sector actors, particularly the rearers, grainage owners, reelers, spinners, weavers, dyers, embroiderers, TVS and SHG members, WCS members, entrepreneurs and traders who took the time to share their experiences and views with me.

I am very thankful to the Joint Director of Textiles (Sericulture) Sri Anathnath Mondal for the valuable insights he gave during our interaction as well as his good offices for providing basic statistics on tasar production, with special thanks to Sri Supratim Das, Assistant Director of Textiles, for all the help and support provided. I am also thankful to Deputy Director, Bankura & Medinipur, Sri Ajit Prasad Mandi for providing tasar-related statistics of the respective districts as well as assisting with staff during visit to Bishnupur. I am thankful to Sri Sagar Das of DoS-Bankura for providing statistical information on tasar in Bankura district. I am also thankful to Sri Bonobehari Ghare, Extension Officer (Khatra TSC), and Sri Rameshchandra Chakroborty (Field Assistant) for facilitating my visit to Baroghutu plantation and providing all information regarding tasar activities in Khatra block. I am thankful to the staff at Training-cum-Reeling Centre, Bishnupur, for providing information on reeling activities. I am thankful to Dr Tarun Patra of DoS- Medinipur and his good offices for providing all information on tasar activities in the district as well as providing field staff during visit to plantation and weaving clusters in the district. I am thankful to Sri Atim Kumar Das of DCSTS-Suiri for providing information on post-cocoon activities in the district. I am also thankful to Dr Ashish Pal and Dr Saurabh Majumdar of SCTH-Maldah for providing valuable insight into post-cocoon technology. I am thankful to Dr Abhijit from BSMTC-Patelnagar and Mr Joydeep Singhrai of REU-Taldangra for providing information on the seed sector.

I am grateful to PRADAN-Shilda Team and the Khatra office for facilitating my visits in Ranibandh and Binpur-2 blocks of Bankura and Paschim Medinipur districts. I am also grateful to Sri Bimal Pakhira from CWDS-Khatra for facilitating the visit to Baroghutu plantation and interaction with the group there.

Many thanks to Sri Ashoke Nandy of KVIC-Jhargram, Sri Jogesh Pal of Bishnupur, Sri Debmalya Dutta of Sri Durga Textiles- Sonamukhi, Sri Paresh Chandra Sahu of Gopiballabpur, Sri Murli Monohar Pal of Bishnupur, Sri Shaktipada Das and Sri Kewal Das of Tantipara and Sri K Banik of Starling Silk Mills Pvt Ltd-Maldah for facilitating my interactions in the weaving clusters as well as providing information on the post cocoon sector.

Finally I am grateful to Dr K. Sathyanarayana – Scientist D & MKSP Project Coordinator, Central Silk Board, Bangalore (CSB) and Sri Shamshad Alam, Integrator-Tasar Theme, Tasar Development Foundation (TDF)-Deoghar for giving me opportunity and guidance as well as all round support in conducting the study.

The views expressed in the report are that of the stakeholders and does not reflect that of the author or organizations engaged in the study or programme.

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List of Respondents

Respondent/s Location Joint Director- Sericulture DoS_Kolkata Asst Director - Sericulture DoS-Kolkata Deputy Director DoS- Bankura & Medinipur Sri Sagar Das DoS-Bankura Sri Bonobihari Ghare Extension officer TSC-Khatra Dr Tarun Patra DoS- Medinipur Sri A Das DSCTS-Suiri Dr Ashish Pal SCTH-Maldah Dr Saurabh Majumdar SCTH-Maldah Dr Abhijit BSMTC-Patelnagar Sri Joydeep Singhrai REU-Taldangra Sri Bimal Pakhira CWDS-Khatra Mir PRADAN-Silda Rearers & Members of Nari Vikash Baroghutu, Khatra-Bankura Rearers Tetla, Sankrail-Paschim Medinipur Members of Shivdurga TVS Arlo, Ranibandh, Bankura Members of Rajarani TVS Serensokra, Ranibandh, Bankura Members of Bhagyalaxmi TVS Sushnijubi, Binpur-2, Paschim Medinipur Tasar Traders Bhulabeda Panchayat Sri Jogesh Pal Bishnupur Sri Murli Mohan Pal Bishnupur Sri Samit Patra Bishnupur Sri Sandeep Chand Bishnupur Sri Debmalya Dutta Sonamukhi Sri Paresh Sahu Gopiballabpur Sri Ashoke Nandy KVIC-Jhargram Sri Shaktipada Das Tantipara Sri Kewal Das Tantipara Gagga Dyeing & Printing Centre Tantipara Dologobindo Das Tantipara Sri K Banik Starling Silk Pvt Ltd-Malda Annwesha Embroiders- Bolpur Sri Prodeep Basak Fulia Fulia Tangail Saree Bayan Shilpa Samabaya Fulia Samiti Ltd WCS Gopiballabpur

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Ministry of Rural Development (MoRD)

The Ministry of Rural Development, Government of India, plays a pivotal role in the overall development strategy of the country. Its vision and mission focus on sustainable and inclusive growth of rural India through a multipronged strategy for eradication of poverty, by increasing livelihoods opportunities, providing social safety net and developing infrastructure for growth. This is expected to improve the quality of life in rural India and correct the developmental imbalances, aiming, in the process, to reach out to the most disadvantaged sections of society.

Central Silk Board (CSB)

The Central Silk Board (CSB) is a Government of India organisation under the administrative control of the Ministry of Textiles. The mandated activities of CSB are research and development, research extension, maintenance of four-tier silkworm seed production network, leadership role in commercial silkworm seed production processes, promotion of Indian silk in domestic and international markets and advising the Union Government on all matters concerning sericulture and the silk industry. These activities are carried out by 325 units of CSB in different states. The CSB has also been implementing the centrally- sponsored scheme, Catalytic Development Programme aimed at the synergy and dissemination of technologies and innovations developed by its R&D units and incentivising investments among stakeholders to enhance production, productivity and quality of silk.

Professional Assistance for Development Action (PRADAN)

PRADAN is a public service organisation working in the endemically poor and backward regions of Central India, with collectives of rural women to help them achieve an enhanced sense of dignity and well-being through sustainable livelihoods. PRADAN works towards large scale alleviation in human condition through multiple stakeholder collaborations. PRADAN’s efforts impact over 3.5 million people directly in 45 districts of Bihar, Chhattisgarh, Jharkhand, Madhya Pradesh, Odisha, West Bengal and Rajasthan. Revitalising tasar sericulture is one of PRADAN’s livelihood initiatives whose success has transformed the lives of more than 10,000 poor tribal families in these states. The Central Silk Board and PRADAN are currently working to scale up the tasar sericulture programme in partnership with the MoRD.

This publication has been made possible with financial support from Ministry of Rural Development, Government of India, under the Mahila Kisan Sashaktikaran Pariyojana (MKSP) tasar project in West Bengal.

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Central Silk Board PRADAN Ministry of Textiles, Government of India E1/A, Kailash Colony CSB Complex, BTM Layout New Delhi - 110048 Bangalore - 560 068 T: 011 40407700 T: 080 26282699. 26282100 E: [email protected] E: [email protected] W: www.pradan.net W: www.csb.gov.in