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Vol.46AUTUMN 2019

Vol.46AUTUMN 2019

HERITAGE N A E R O K HERITAGE N A E R O K Cultural Heritage Administration www.koreanheritage.kr ISSN 2005-0151 Government Publications Registration Number 11-1550000-000639-08 KOREAN

AUTUMN 2019 HERITAGE VOL. 46 AUTUMN 2019 Vol. 46 Cultural Heritage Administration ON THE COVER Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration CONTENTS AUTUMN Vol. 46 KOREAN 02 Featured

HERITAGE 02 CURATOR'S SELECTION The Queen’s Loving Heart Delivered in

Date of Publication 08 KOREAN FOOD September 5, 2019 Hanji, or , is crafted through a laborious process of steaming, pounding, Rice, the Enduring Staple Food of Published by and drying the fibers of mulberry trees. The oldest surviving woodblock print in the 08 Cultural Heritage Administration Republic of world, the Pure Light , was made with this traditional Korean paper. 16 HUMAN TREASURES Publication Management Enshrined in a stone , the Buddhist text was discovered in a nearly intact Director of International Cooperation Division form an amazing 1,300 years after its creation, demonstrating the remarkable Hanji Records Textures durability of Korean paper. The front cover shows sheets of Korean paper crafted Content Coordination using traditional methods by Master Chun-soo. This hanji is characterized Byung-, Cho Ha-young by its natural hues and warm but strong textures. Paper manufactured by Hansol 26 LOCAL HERITAGE GUIDE Translation Paper using state-of-the-art technology is featured on the back cover. In this digital A Heritage Walk on an Autumn Night Jung-eun age when a paperless world is widely predicted, Hansol Paper is working under the

Copy Editing motto “Good paper is inspiring.” Drawing on its strong belief in paper, the Korean Bill Sharp papermaking company is making its utmost efforts to create contemporary products that reflect the knowledge and wisdom embodied by traditional papermaking. Coordination by CH121 Heritage Through Photos Printed by Daehan Printech Co., Ltd. 34 Sublime Aesthetics of ‘Flower-patterned Doors’ 10 16 Heritage Issues Today 40 Heritage for Cultural Connection

Cultural Heritage Administration Headlines 34 40 Cultural Heritage Administration KOREAN HERITAGE is also available on the website (www.koreanheritage.kr) 52 Korean Neo-Confucian Academies Achieve 189 Cheongsa-ro, Seo-gu, , and smart devices. You can also download its PDF version and subscribe to our World Heritage Status Republic of Korea newsletter to receive our latest news on the website. The articles featured in this magazine only reflect the contributing authors’ opinions. Efforts toward a Joint South-North Tel 82-42-481-4737 Nomination of the DMZ Fax 82-42-481-4759 Cultural Heritage Administration, 2019 Contact [email protected] This publication is copyrighted. No part may be reproduced by any process Website www.koreanheritage.kr without written permission. Copyright © Cultural Heritage Administration CURATOR'S SELECTION Text by Photos by

Lee Jong-deok, researcher on -era letters in Hangul The Queen’s the National Palace Museum of Korea Loving Heart Delivered in Hangul

Located right next door to China, Chinese characters and literary life transmitted to the Korean Peninsula early in the Three Kingdoms period (57 B.C.–A.D. 668). Literacy at the time was an exclusive luxury reserved for a tiny proportion of society, mainly men Reading your letter, I am of lofty status. With the invention reassured to learn that you slept of the Korean alphabet known as well overnight. I feel anxious that His Majesty the King has failed to Hangul in the 15th century under fully recover. The Eastern Palace King Sejong, the fourth [referring to the crown ] and its daily movements are of Joseon (1392–1910), women and in overall peace, which I hope children also came to enjoy the will last forever. I am as good as usual. It is cold today as well. It is ability to read and write with very Reading your letter, I am reassured to learn worrying that your mother is so little difficulty. Among the diverse that nothing untoward occurred overnight. ill. … It would be a great problem His Majesty the King is generally in stable if the nickel chest of drawers Joseon-era documents written in health, and the Eastern Palace [referring to does not arrive, so please send a the ] and its daily movements Hangul, personal letters remain a are in overall peace, which I hope will last message that the drawer should forever. I am as good as usual. It is cold be sent without fail, even if by valuable resource for research on the today with the cool winds of spring. I have land. checked what you sent in; why have you and everyday life Addressed to Min Yeong-so; prepared so many things? I feel uneasy. It is after 1889 of the time for their capturing of the worrying that you are not all right today as well, and I wonder if your wife has gotten oral language and local dialects used any better? Addressed to Min Yeong-so; during the Joseon era. c. 1880s–early

02 03 CURATOR'S SELECTION

A Window into Everyday Life in the Past

Many men still preferred to use Chinese characters after the invention of the Korean alphabet, but Hangul quickly became the preferred script for women. Letters to women were written in Hangul even when the writer was male. Hangul letters became indispensable in Korean life at the time as the primary means to exchange everyday greetings, extend courtesies on both celebratory and sorrowful occasions, and make important requests. Personal letters from the Joseon era that have survived to the present can be broadly divided into two categories—those buried with grave goods and those passed down as family heirlooms. Letters excavated from graves provide relatively exact information on the family relations of the correspondents and their date of creation. The oldest surviving Hangul correspondence, a letter written in the late 15th century by Na Sin-geol (1461–1524) to his wife from the Sinchang Maeng family was found among the Reading your letter, I am reassured to learn that you slept well overnight. It is worrying that your brother is not well. grave goods in her tomb. I feel relieved to know that Chung-gyeong slept well outside [of the palace after visiting it]. I am happy that he took pleasure in the donkey, but worried that his body and mind may tire in this cold weather. I ask that you hold him tight Hangul letters handed down as heirlooms are when he rides the donkey as the animal is known for its capricious temper. I feel cautious [about everything for him]. mostly found in families from the landed literati I also feel proud in my surety that he will grow to emulate you as a man. His Majesty the King is generally in stable class (sadaebu) or the nobility. Hangul was used by health, and the Eastern Palace [referring to the crown prince] and its daily movements are in overall peace, which women of letters from the ruling class, including I hope will last forever. I am as good as usual, except for a fever from energy congestion. It is clear but cold today. queens, princesses, and other women of the royal Addressed to Min Yeong-so; c. 1891 . However, many Hangul letters were in fact Reading your letter, I am reassured to learn that you slept well overnight. His Majesty the King is dictated by royalty to their court ladies, making hand- Loving Words in Hangul generally in stable health, and the Eastern Palace written Hangul letters from the a rare [referring to the crown prince] and its daily document. Hand-written Hangul letters from several The surviving letters of Queen Myeongseong make up the largest collection of Joseon-era Hangul movements are in overall peace, which I hope will Joseon queens have been transmitted to the present, last forever. I am as good as usual. It is clear today letters left behind by any single person. They number around 180, including 146 that were hand- however. Here, letters written by Queen Myeongseong as well. Tell Jeongsik to do as he desires. Give this written by the queen. The lion’s share of these letters, 136, was addressed to her nephew Min (1851–95), the wife of King Gojong (r. 1863–1907), will bracelet to Chung-gyeong. Yeong-so (1852–1917). Among the other ten, five were sent to the queen’s second cousin, Min Addressed to Min Yeong-so; c. 1885–94 be explored. Eung-sik (1844–1903), and five to his son, Min -seung (1865–1946).

04 05 CURATOR'S SELECTION

The recipient of the bulk of the queen’s letters, him in person today. I feel relieved and happy that Min Yeong-so, was an ardent admirer and faithful he seems to have matured a great deal,” “Chung- follower of Queen Myeongseong. Most of her letters gyeong’s eye condition is very worrying,” and “Give to him begin with phrases like, “Reading your letter, this bracelet to Chung-gyeong.” It seems that Queen I am reassured to learn that nothing untoward Myeongseong cherished Chung-gyeong, a member occurred overnight …” This indicates that the of what would have been her grandchildren’s queen’s letters were replies to Min’s prior messages generation if she had any, and sometimes called him that seem to have been sent to the queen on a daily in to the royal palace. basis. After confirming Min Yeong-so’s well-being, The ten letters sent by Queen Myeongseong to Queen Myeongseong delivers news from her side, Min Eung-sik and his son are worth extra attention I have received your sealed letter, and am commonly starting with mentions of her husband as their dates correspond to the First Sino-Japanese reassured to learn that you are well. His Majesty the King is generally in stable health, and the and son like, “His Majesty the King is generally in War (1894–95), one of the most significant events Eastern Palace [referring to the crown prince] stable health, and the Eastern Palace [referring in Korea’s early modern history. Min Eung-sik and its daily movements are in overall peace, to the crown prince] and its daily movements are was a distant relative of Queen Myeongseong who which I hope will last forever. I am as good in overall peace …” The queen only speaks about emerged as an important figure in the political life as usual. The recent outing of His Majesty the herself after describing the health and security of of later Joseon thanks to his provision of shelter King passed with no problems and his daily movements are in overall peace, which I hope the king and the crown prince, which must have for the queen during the Imo Mutiny of 1882. At will last forever. I took a close look at your been a main focus of her daily attention. the time when these letters were being sent to message, but how could it be as easy as you In many of her letters, Queen Myeongseong him, Min Eung-sik had been banished following his said? describes the weather, such as with “It is clean and confrontation with the reformist political faction. Addressed to her aunt from the Hansan Yi warm today” and “The weather is clean and warm, family; c. 1880s–early 1890s but it is worrying that no rain is forecast.” This may be interpreted as a show of personal interest Characteristic Calligraphy in atmospheric conditions, but it is more likely that on one or two pieces of paper colored pale pink, yellow, green, or violet with she observed the weather out of consideration for and Decorative Paper background patterns featuring designs such as rock and bamboo, plum trees its significance to . As a ruler, Queen and birds, lotus flowers, peonies in a vase, and flowers and butterflies. The Myeongseong must have monitored the weather Queen Myeongseong’s handwriting illustrates papers also bear inscriptions of Chinese characters. Letters sent from the royal because of its crucial influence on farming, people’s her freewheeling and uninhibited character. Her court were always contained in an envelope, but the envelopes for most of the primary livelihood at the time. letters written by court transcribers are presented surviving letters have been lost. Envelopes were normally half as long as letter Her thoughtful consideration and loving in the typical “royal script” form of Hangul used in paper; and letters were folded in half to fit within. concern for Min Yeong-so and his family is fully the court from the late Joseon period. This type of Queen Myeongseong’s Hangul letters present a realistic reflection of her expressed in her letters. She checked on their health writing shows a high level of stylistic organization tumultuous life in the early-modern period of Korean history. In them, she by saying things like, “It is worrying that you are not with the syllabic blocks neatly aligned to the right. expresses her concern over the health and security of the ruler and his heir, all right today as well; and I wonder if your wife has This degree of organization is rare in the queen’s pays close attention to shifting weather conditions, and voices her opinions on gotten any better?” and “It is worrying that your handwritten letters, where the blocks are rarely court affairs and staffing arrangements. These personal communications from mother is so ill.” It is also noticeable that Queen lined up straight. the queen in Hangul are an invaluable source of information for understanding Myeongseong referred frequently to Min Yeong-so’s The letter paper she used shows a high level of her life and the turbulent era she endured. son, Min Chung-sik (1881–1933), by his childhood delicacy and elegance, set apart from—for example— name Chung-gyeong: “I let Chung-gyeong in and met paper used by noble families. She wrote her letters

06 07 KOREAN FOOD

Rice, the Enduring Staple Food of Koreans

Text by Seo Yu-gu, Mun Seong-hui, Institute of Imwon Economy Photos by Siat Publishing Boiled Barley (Boribap)

Seo Yu-gu (penname Pungseok, 1764– Barley grains are firm and coarse, and 1845), a prominent late-Joseon , consequently difficult to cook. Soak them in or Practical Learning, scholar, compiled clean water for a half a day so that they can an encyclopedia on Korean rural life absorb water on the inside before cooking. The finished boribap will be softer in texture and named Imwon gyeongjeji (Records on the better in taste, and you can also save on firewood. Rural Economy). The 113 volumes of this — An excerpt from Jeongjoji encyclopedia provide in-depth knowledge and guidance on 16 different subjects Barley provided a replacement for white rice in the days when it was still a precious that were considered essential for rural commodity. Boiled barley was a popular life, from agriculture, astronomy, and staple for Koreans. To speed cooking, barley architecture to music and family rituals. can be steeped in water ahead of time. Next, The eighth book, called “Records on Pots it is put in a pot with the proper amount of and Cutting Boards” (Jeongjoji), addresses water and brought to boil over high heat. food by scientific accounts on Once it boils, the heat is reduced somewhat. recipes for late-Joseon dishes, drinks, and After the water boils down, it is simmered sauces along with their nutritional effects. over low heat. Barley has a cold quality and is therefore suitable as a summer food. People The entries on cooked rice—the staple food dunked the cooked barley into a bowl of cold of Koreans that has been described as the water and enjoyed it with soybean paste, essence of their identity and their anchor green chili peppers, or red pepper paste. It in life—are described below. made a simple but healthy meal.

08 09 KOREAN FOOD

Nutritious Rice (Yeongyangbap)

Pungseok uses the term hondonban in his book to describe rice cooked with various healthy ingredients, or simply “deluxe rice.” Ingredients such as glutinous rice, red beans, cooked chestnuts, and dried jujubes can be added to this dish. According to Pungseok, what sets “deluxe rice” apart from other types is the cooking method: it is not boiled, but simply steamed. Rice should be soaked in water for a sufficient time before being cooked. Once steam is rising from the Rice Cooked with pot, the other ingredients can be added. After a time, the rice is sprinkled with Lettuce Leaves (Sangchubap) cold water and thoroughly mixed to improve the cooking. Various healthy Salt lettuce leaves and dry them in the sun. It is beneficial in summer to ingredients are brought together to season the sun-dried lettuce leaves with sesame oil and cook rice with them on top. They are effective at killing harmful bacteria in the stomach, complete this dish, making it a classic so it is useful to add them when boiling meat. example of the saying, — An excerpt from Jeongjoji “Rice is better than medicine.”

Lettuce is the most common leafy vegetable for making , or a leafy vegetable wrap. Wrapping cooked rice, grilled meat, and sauce in a vegetable leaf was a universally popular method of eating in Korea across all social classes. Lettuce, a popular ssam mainstay, was also used for cooking rice. Lettuce leaves can be sprinkled with salt and dried in the sun. These dried leaves can be mixed with sesame oil and placed on top of the rice while it is simmering. The bitterness of the lettuce and the aroma of the sesame oil strike a perfect harmony with cooked rice. Rich in iron, lettuce soothes the intestines.

10 11 Lotus Leaf Wrap (Yeonipbap)

When wrapped in lotus leaves, rice does not easily go bad in the summer heat. — An excerpt from Jeongjoji

Before the invention of the refrigerator, preventing food from spoiling was crucial. Pungseok introduces yeonipbap, or rice wrapped in lotus leaves, as a method for keeping rice from going bad. Yeonipbap is normally made by wrapping glutinous rice in fresh lotus leaves and steaming it. In his book, however, it is noted that the lotus leaves must remain fresh. While they can be a difficult ingredient to find, lotus leaves are good at stimulating the appetite with their savory flavor, attractive form, and pleasant color.

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Sweet Potato Rice (Gogumabap)

Dry sweet potatoes in the sun and break them into chunks. Mix the sweet potato pieces with rice and cook them, and you can prevent hunger for a long time. When using fresh sweet potatoes, add them later in the simmering stage of cooking the rice; this is enough for fresh sweet potato pieces. — An excerpt from Jeongjoji

In the days when food was scarce, it was logical to prefer foodstuffs that kept you feeling full. Sweet potatoes are well known for this. Along with offering a sense of fullness, their sweet flavor made them a food of choice. When the rice is nearly finished, sweet potato bits can be put into the rice pot. Simmering it for a set period of time will do the job. Care should be taken not to overcook the dish after the sweet potatoes are added or they can turn mushy and dissolve. Sweet potato leaves can also be added to different dishes. Among them, Pungseok recommends making a soup with sweet potato leaves as a nourishing dish for the period after childbirth.

Rice Porridge (Ssaljuk)

Late-ripening rice is good for making rice porridge. A stone pot improves the flavor. Water from deep in the mountains makes it even better. Consuming it early in the morning helps with the production of body fluids and is good for the elderly. — An excerpt from Jeongjoji

Rice porridge is often served to convalescents. Made by boiling well- soaked rice over low heat, rice porridge is an excellent source of energy for those struggling with solid foods. It has long been favored as a food for recuperation among Koreans. Soaked rice is stirred with sesame oil in a heated stone pot. An abundant amount of water is poured into the pot, and the milky soup is then scooped out. As the watery rice simmers, it must be stirred constantly while the scooped-out soup is gradually added back in. After boiling over low heat for a long time, the rice porridge is eventually ready.

14 15 HUMAN TREASURES

Hanji Records Textures

Interview with Master Hong Chun-soo and Kwon Jun-sung

People have long left rich information about their lives in the form of letters. The primary carrier of this written information has been, obviously, paper. Sheets of paper transmit information throughout time and across space, serving as critical evidence of historical periods and particular places. This issue features thoughts on the historical and contemporary relevance of paper from Master Hong Chun- soo, who crafts hanji (Korean paper) just as Koreans have done for hundreds of years, and Kwon Jun-sung of Hansol Paper, a Korean paper company that never stops working to improve paper.

Text by Joo Hak-nim Photos by the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation, Hansol Paper, the Temple Museum, and Jung Meen-young

* The “Human Treasures” section in this issue is printed on paper (; H-White, 120g/m2) produced by Hansol Paper.

16 17 HUMAN TREASURES

The Pure Light Dharani Sutra from the Sakyamuni Pagoda at Bulguksa Temple (measuring 8 x 620 cm; designated National Treasure Korean paper, a masterpiece made by cooperation between and people (photos courtesy of No. 126). Made of Korean paper, this Buddhist text is the oldest extant woodblock print in the world, presumably produced in the the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation) early eighth century (photo courtesy of the Bulguksa Temple Museum).

Hanji, a Co-production of Nature and requires no more than the elements of nature. Raw materials and also durable, is the best since it absorbs ink well’. Mulberry trees in Korea People It might have been its closeness to nature that from nature will were so good that the sheets of paper made of them were compared to silk.” allowed the Korean paper in the Sakyamuni Pagoda not automatically Even though Master Hong attributes the quality of Korean paper to the power When the Sakyamuni Pagoda (Seokgatap) at to last for more than 1,000 years.” of nature, raw materials from nature will not automatically become superior paper become superior Bulguksa Temple in was disassembled for Based on the surviving relics and documents, without human efforts. Making Korean paper is a process of adding functionality paper without repair in 1966, one of the surprises it revealed was it is assumed that the production of paper in Korea to naturally grown mulberry trees while maintaining certain qualities intact. To the durability of Korean paper. In the second tier of dates to sometime between the second and seventh human efforts. craft Korean paper, stalks from mulberry trees are steamed for a full day and the the stone pagoda was found a Buddhist text printed centuries. Neighboring countries such as China and bark is peeled off. This bark is soaked in water until the white inner skin can be on Korean paper, the Pure Light Dharani Sutra (Mugu have long made paper using mulberry trees, separated from the outer skin. The inner skin, or bast, is boiled in water mixed with jeonggwang dae daranigyeong). This Buddhist text which are also the main source for Korean paper. lye and any remaining impurities are removed by hand. The clean bast is beaten enshrined in scroll format is the oldest surviving However, the natural environment in which the to produce a pulp, which is then dissolved in water together with mucilage from woodblock print in the world, and it was printed trees grow and details of the manufacturing process sunset hibiscus roots. A fine bamboo frame is dipped into this solution and moved on traditional Korean paper. Dated to between 704 differ to create subtle but important differences in back and forth. The liquid filters through the bamboo frame to leave behind a and 751, the Korean paper scroll endured in the the final products. thin layer of mulberry fibers. The resulting sheet of damp fibers is separated from dark for about 1,300 years with little damage. Hong “Fibers from mulberry trees that grow naturally the frame and dried. Paper sheets are layered one over another and pounded to Chun-soo, the nationally designated master of hanji in Korea are narrow and regular in length, and increase the density of fibers and produce a shine on the surface. Throughout this making, emphasizes nature as the foremost factor therefore provide excellent strength when made laborious papermaking process, there is never a moment when Master Hong can for ensuring the strength of Korean paper. into paper. The Chinese historic book Kaopan yushi lower his guard. “Korean paper, when traditionally made, states, ‘The paper of , which is as white as

18 19 HUMAN TREASURES

“Anything but complete attention at any moment I started plunging the bamboo frame into the their houses. Korean paper serves as the material of choice for heritage Left_ Master Hong Chun-soo says that in the entire process will result in deficiencies in mulberry fiber liquid at 12. I have never considered conservation over any other varieties of paper available these days. he always feels humbled in front of the miraculous durability of Korean paper. the end products—dim colors, coarse surfaces, or anything other than papermaking ever since.” Master Hong Chun-soo is the person who can make Korean paper in a (photos courtesy of the Korea Cultural weakness. You have to work in accordance with Hong Chun-soo’s life resembles the Korean form closest to its historical version, as evidenced by his recognition for Heritage Foundation) the seasonal rhythms of nature. Temperature and paper he makes—unpretentious but gently glowing reproducing the letter paper used by King Jeongjo, the 22nd monarch of Right_ Korean paper crafted by Master humidity are critical factors. Mulberry trees should with a unique tone. Aspiring to nothing else, Master Joseon. The Korean paper he produced was adopted for making a near- Hong. No two sheets of paper are alike in color or texture, which to him is the be harvested in the winter when their hardness Hong has worked to make better paper all his life. authentic copy of the Annals of the Joseon (Joseon wangjo sillok). greatest charm of hanji making. peaks. Sunset hibiscus glue easily goes bad in Sixty years after his first day of papermaking, Hong “I hope that this copy of the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty will last (photos courtesy of the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation) high temperatures, so working in summer is not was nationally recognized in 2010 as the master more than 1,000 years, just like the Pure Light Dharani Sutra. Looking back desirable.” of traditional Korean paper making, National on making the paper, however, I can see many ways to improve. I have A hanji maker dedicates a full month and more Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 117. regrets, like should I have used cleaner water? Was there any extra care than one hundred touches to produce a single “No two sheets of Korean paper are alike, I could have taken but missed? I have a long way to go before matching sheet of paper. Master Hong Chun-soo believes that even though they might be crafted in the same our ancestors. The only thing I can do is keep making constant efforts hanji is a work of nature, but it has always been the environment. Differences can be subtle, but paper at my job.” artisanry of papermakers like him that transformed sheets are never the same in color, thickness, or The papermaking methods developed hundreds of years ago have the natural material into this type of paper with its texture. One drop of water, a slight movement of benefited us to this day. The advancement of technology has, however, incredible durability. the hand, or any other trivial differences during brought about a point in history when electronic devices have in many the process are reflected in the completed sheets ways taken over the practical functions of paper. At a time when the of paper. This is the fascinating aspect of this work relevance of paper is being questioned, the Korean company Hansol Master Hong’s Incessant Work on that has captivated me all these years.” Paper is moving forward based on a firm belief in the inspirational value Hanji Korean paper was applied to national of paper. reconstruction after the (1950–53) “I was the oldest son in a hanji-making family. as Korean people used traditional paper to repair

20 21 HUMAN TREASURES

Hansol Paper manufactures 1.6 million metric tons of paper per year and exports about a half of it. The company spares no effort at communicating with the public, evidenced by its establishment of Museum SAN, a multifaceted cultural complex where paper culture and artistic efforts coexist. (photos courtesy of Hansol Paper)

As inheritors of the custom of hanji making, we consider it to be part of our mandate to reflect the Korean papermaking tradition and other traditional elements in the paper products of today. Through incessant efforts, I believe there will emerge a higher demand for these products and Korean hanji makers will benefit along the way. This will also contribute to boosting global awareness of the cultural identity of Korea.” Hansol’s sincere efforts at preserving tradition and enhancing its appreciation among a wider Kwon Jun-sung at Hansol Paper relates that the company is striving to preserve and promote Korean public are demonstrated by the establishment of From the left, Chun Sook-hee and Young-chul at Wise Architecture (photo courtesypaper since of Jung its productsMeen-young) are rooted in the practices of the Hansol Cultural Foundation, which in turn traditional papermaking. (photo by Jung Meen-young) spawned various cultural institutions such as the hanji research center, the Hansol Paper Museum, and—most importantly—“Museum SAN.” Museum SAN is a cultural complex integrating exhibits on paper and other artworks under one roof. Kwon Papermakers as Descendants of “As part of our effort to transmit the hanji making Jun-sung has spearheaded the foundation of Hanji Masters tradition, we installed a hanji research center at Museum SAN from its planning to construction our factory in . Through it, we provided and opening. “Don’t worry; paper will never disappear. It once a favorable environment for hanji masters to craft “We are doing our best to protect the past, served as a means to store and deliver information. paper in a traditional way. I always feel tremendous present, and future of paper. Museum SAN is part These days, however, it is an inspirational medium gratitude and pride for these masters and their of this effort. Growing out of the Hansol Paper on its own! The feelings and sensations you get works.” Museum, Museum SAN—consisting of rooms when holding a paper book and turning its pages Hansol is also working to incorporate elements for permanent and special exhibitions and a cannot be replaced,” says Kwon Jun-sung at Hansol of cultural traditions into its products to help designated gallery for U.S. artist James Turrell—is Paper. support the overarching mission of disseminating a multifaceted cultural space where visitors can Founded in 1965, Hansol Paper annually Korean culture. The company manufactures paper naturally develop an interest in the significance of produces around 1.6 million metric tons of printing patterned with an incised inscription of the Korean paper and in art in general.” paper, paperboard, stationery, and other varieties alphabet or with mother-of-pearl designs. Sometimes seeming today like a poor medium of paper, about a half of which is exported. Kwon “Frankly speaking, we have products that for information, paper actually carries an imposing Jun-sung is proud that the paper manufactured generate no profits at all. However, we will never load of history and demonstrates the full diversity at Hansol today is rooted in the traditional hanji abandon our efforts at incorporating Korean available in the world. Hansol firmly believes in making method. traditions into the paper products we manufacture. this intrinsic power of paper.

22 23 HUMAN TREASURES

The Dark in the Dialogue building seen from the inside looking out(photo courtesy of Kim Yong-kwan)

Hansol is currently working on “inspiring paper” to support the unique qualities of paper in this digital age. (photos courtesy of Hansol Paper)

Hansol’s Vision for ‘Inspiring Paper’ may encroach on the traditional domain of paper, the touch that paper allows cannot be digitalized. Hansol is progressing with a clear conception of the “The new brand was inspired by Korean paper. relationship between paper and people in today’s Even with nothing written on it, Korean paper society. What kind of roles should and will paper carves out a strong impression in people’s minds play for people living in the 21st century? through its unique color and texture. Just as dal “Quality paper offers inspiration. An inflexible hangari, or ‘moon jars’, a special type of white limited perspective on the roles of paper in vessel in the shape of a full moon, have today’s society cannot explain the feelings and inspired artists in Korea and beyond, the aesthetic sensations it provides at each stage of publishing. of Korean paper will surely become a source of We are working to offer opportunities for paper inspiration for the international artistic world.” book designers and editors to explore the diverse Kwon Jun-sung does not hesitate to emphasize potential of paper for inspirational effects through that the mission of Hansol Paper is to manufacture mutual exchanges of sharing and development.” paper products that are as good as the paper Quality paper offers inspiration. An inflexible limited perspective Hansol Paper has recently launched the crafted by the Koreans of centuries ago. Paper is on the roles of paper in today’s society cannot explain the feelings paper brand Insper, an invented word combining about more than its practical functions: it is about and sensations it provides at each stage of publishing. “inspiring” with “paper,” officially announcing feelings, sensations, and emotions. This is why its ambitious dream of creating a medium that the future of paper remains bright in this age of inspires. However extensively digital technology digitization.

24 25 LOCAL HERITAGE GUIDE Seongbuk-dong, , Neighborhoods Gangwon-do Province Outside the Wall Gangneung Daedohobu Reawakens A Heritage Walk on Incheon Port Opening 2019 an Autumn Night

Text by Kim Ji-hye

eople who go about occupied with unusual business rather than heading to bed at night are called bam by Koreans, or “night goblins.” Autumn Cheongju, is a perfect season to become such a “night goblin.” The gentle moonlight Chungcheongbuk-do Province and pleasant breezes of a fall night encourage nighttime activities. Walk- Cheongju Gentry and

Ping can be an ideal activity for “night goblins,” especially when it is accompanied by Stories of the Town Wall culture and history. Evening heritage tours that combine local areas’ tangible and intangible heritage through diverse interpretation programs are on offer across the , Jeollabuk-do Province country. A few of the evening heritage tour programs offered to “night goblins” in- Eight Splendid Works of terested in discovering the unique nighttime charms of local culture and traditions Heritage Magicians this autumn are presented here.

Tongyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do Province Seongbuk-dong, Seoul Discover the 12 Treasures in Tongyeong Neighborhoods Outside the Wall Jeju, Jeju-do Province September 20 (Fri.)–22 (Sun.), 18:00–22:00 Governor’s Nightly Birthday Party Seongbuk-dong, literally a “neighborhood north of the wall,” derives its name from its location. Formed immediately outside the northern section of the city wall of Seoul, Seongbuk-dong offers a unique combination of traditional culture and modern history. This neighborhood partly engulfing the Joseon Dynasty capital wall is replete with various historic sites from the era juxtaposed with the traces of the daily lives of those who call this area home. Over three days this autumn, a range of historic sites and museums around this area are being opened to the public at night. A colorful array of exhibitions, performances, and experience programs awaits visitors as well. Local residents, shop owners, and artists active around this area have come together in a concerted effort to present their neighborhood’s history and culture in a diverse manner. In particular, visitors can gain a rare opportunity to enjoy performances by nationally designated traditional artists such as Saeng-gang (master of the daegeum, a large bamboo transverse flute) and Jo Yeong-suk (master of foot-mask theater). This nightly cultural promenade of Seongbuk-dong provides an unforgettable memory and a break from the hustle and bustle of Seoul.

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Incheon On this nightly heritage tour of Incheon, visitors can travel This evening heritage tour of Gangneung centers around Gangneung, Gangwon-do Province back in time to the year 1883 when Incheon Port was first the site of the Gangneung Daedohobu government office, Incheon Port opened to foreign trade. They can develop a sense of the an administrative designation applied to the area from the Gangneung historic moment when the city became a bridge connecting late Goryeo Dynasty through most of the Joseon era. The Opening 2019 Joseon to the world outside. Guided tours are organized on wooden gate of its guesthouse, called Imyeonggwan, holds a Daedohobu September 7 (Sat.)–8 (Sun.), six different themes, including on Korea, China, Japan, other name plaque bearing the calligraphy of King Gongmin, who 18:00–23:00 countries, and religion, with participants walking through ruled the Goryeo Dynasty from 1351 to 1374, reflecting the Reawakens related historic sites with a heritage interpreter. They immense historicity of this heritage site. A colorful array of September 27 (Fri.)–28 (Sat.), 18:00–23:00 can enjoy the crisp air of an autumn night accompanied things to see, do, and taste is on offer from installed arts, by the interesting stories and amusing performances on busking performances, and street parades to guided tours, offer at every corner of the area designated as the foreign photography in traditional costumes, time-honored games, trade district with the opening of Incheon Port. Those who local food in a traditional market, and tea ceremonies. The collect stamps from the designated museums will receive ready access to the sea and the beautiful local lagoon called a souvenir as well. In the reconstructed Daebul Hotel, Gyeongpoho compound the reasons to visit Gangneung the first modern lodging facility in Korea, visitors can this autumn. experience the initial type of coffee drink enjoyed in the country, as well as the related culture and history. This is not just about history, though: contemporary stage shows and street performances are also on offer to appeal to younger minds as well.

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Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do Province Jeonju’s Village, a well-established tourist Cheongju, a historic city whose origins date back around Cheongju, Chungcheongbuk-do destination, presents a whole new set of charms with its 2,000 years, is home to a grand reservoir of heritage sites, Province Eight Splendid evening heritage tour program. Under the light of traditional monuments, and valuable artifacts. The evening heritage lanterns hanging in the streets of this neighborhood of time- tour of Cheongju is set against a background of architectural Cheongju Gentry and Works of Heritage honored architecture, the nightly heritage tour of Jeonju heritage sites from the Goryeo and Joseon periods. Visitors features “magicians” who respectively specialize in one can relish the delicious local foods on offer along the Stories of the Magicians of eight themes—light, history and heritage, storytelling, historic boulevard running between the north and south September 21 (Sat.)–22 (Sun.), painting, performance, cooking, travelling, and bargaining. gates of the Cheongju Town Wall. They can also learn about Town Wall 18:00–24:00 (Sat.), 18:00–23:00 (Sun.) The storytelling “magicians” in particular capture people’s the history and culture of the area throughout the tour, October 12 (Sat.)–13 (Sun.), 18:00–23:00 attention with their enchanting speaking skills. Visitors such as the life of the local gentry as seen through Eulchuk can have portraits created by street painters, sip a cup Gaphoedo (a painting of a gathering of local nobles in the of tea in the moonlight, or take a walk in Gyeonggijeon Eulchuk year) and its associated documents. Historical food Shrine. The evening heritage tour of Jeonju brightens the culture is spotlighted through Banchan deungsok, a historical experiences of visitors with the excitement of festivities, cookbook passed down within the Jinju Gang family in but also provides a deeper awareness of the significance of Cheongju. Traditional games can be played while wearing tangible and intangible heritage. (traditional Korean dress), and specially designed exhibitions, performances, and experience programs are regularly available.

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Tongyeong, Sometimes called the Naples of for its scenic Already firmly in the global spotlight as a tourist Jeju, Jeju-do Province Gyeongsangnam-do Province bay, Tongyeong derives its name from the Samdo Sugun destination, Jeju has prepared a special narrative-based Tongjeyeong, or the “three-province naval headquarters” program for nightly tours that revolves around the Joseon Governor’s Discover the 12 where Admiral Yi Sun-sin commanded the naval forces of period Jeju-mok government administrative center. Chungcheong, Jeolla, and Gyeongsang Provinces from 1593. An imaginary governor of Jeju, Governor Yi, celebrates Nightly Treasures in Focusing on distinctive local cultural content related to the his birthday. Highly appreciative of the people’s efforts 12 craft workshops that existed here at the “three-province to make the most of their governor’s birthday feast, Birthday Party Tongyeong naval headquarters” during the Joseon period, the evening local elites from the governor’s special advisory council September 20 (Fri.)–22 (Sun.), 18:00–23:00 October 4 (Fri.)–5 (Sat.), 18:00–23:00 heritage tour of Tongyeong presents roughly 40 programs (Yuhyangso) arrange special programs helping people to organized around eight different themes. Examples include enjoy the cultural and natural beauty of Jeju under themes lantern making, media art shows, , and such as Night Landscape, Night Walk, Night Exhibition, and a guided tour of Seoporu Pavilion, as well as experience Night Market. In the Night Market program, the governor programs for traditional crafts such as handheld fan making, treats people with festive food and drink, providing visitors metalwork, and helmet making. Traditional performances, with a unique take on a Jeju traditional market. With the gugak (traditional Korean music) fusion concerts, and mesmerizing landscape of Jeju as the background, the martial art shows are also ready for visitors’ appreciation. fantasy birthday party of Governor Yi will make any visit This rich package of nightly programs provides a unique an unforgettable one. Tongyeong experience to visitors.

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Sublime Aesthetics of ‘Flower-patterned Doors’

Text and photos by Roh Jae-hak, photographer

From the Geugnakbojeon (Paradise Hall) of Temple,

The halls in a Korean Buddhist monastery are considered sacred spaces enshrining Buddhas and . Manifestations of the sacred, what the religious historian Mircea Eliade refers to as hierophanies, can be found in these spaces. The sacredness of a dharma hall is reflected in the faithful chanting that takes place within and in the religious decoration. Special architectural applications are adopted to enhance the theological status of the structure, such as embellished

frames for the windows and doors. From the Daeungjeon (Great Hero Hall) of Eunhaesa Temple,

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From the Daeungjeon (Great Hero Hall) of Ssanggyesa Temple, From the Daeungjeon (Great Hero Hall) of Donghwasa Temple, From the Geugnakbojeon (Paradise Hall) of Namjangsa Temple, Sangju Windows and doors are architectural elements that stand between Flowers are a decorative motif born out of nature that immediately the interior and exterior. In traditional , they are awakens the aesthetic sense in the human mind. Arguably the finished with Korean paper to promote air circulation and control definitive symbol of beauty, flowers are quick to stir up feelings the temperature and lighting on the inner side. The practice of using of artistic delight. Lotus, peony, and chrysanthemum flowers are Korean paper as a glazing material requires the installation of a common motifs frequently adopted for designing kkotsalmun in ribbed frame. These ribs can intersect and be fastened in various ways . These manifestations of flowers transcend to create regular geometric patterns. Horizontal and vertical ribs the aesthetic value gained from experiencing flowers in reality. They may be latticed at right angles to create square spaces, or at 45- and have been distilled into idealized designs in reflection of Buddhist 135-degree angles to create diagonal spaces. These are respectively doctrine. When adopted as a decorative device, flowers—originally a known as gyeokjasalmun (“grid-patterned doors”) and bitsalmun part of the natural world—are transformed into a metaphor for the (“comb-patterned doors”). The patterns can be superimposed metaphysical worldview of . The flowers embedded in the (soseulsalmun), or horizontal ribs can be placed only at the top, middle, doors of a dharma hall serve as an eternal offering to the enshrined and bottom of the frame over a background of evenly spaced vertical Buddhist beings and a reflection of the profound generosity and ribs (ttisalmun). Sometimes, flowers are expressed in the windows and spiritual truths of Buddhism. doors of Korean Buddhist temples to create kkotsalmun, or “flower- patterned doors.” A “flower-patterned door” can be created by adding a flower design to any of the above-mentioned latticed patterns or by carving the ribs to resemble flowers.

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The flower doors in Seonghyeolsa Temple in and Yongmunsa Temple in Yecheon are worth particular attention. An entire wooden panel has been carved to express flower motifs. The openwork resembles a pond in summer full of blooming lotus flowers through which fish swim. Red-crowned cranes are searching for prey, and a boy seated on a lotus leaf is holding a lotus stem. The overall picture offers a free and playful feeling and a sense of transcendence, manifesting the Buddha-land as the Land of Lotus Flower. Another prominent example of the Buddha-land expressed through a flower door is at the Paradise Hall of Sinheungsa Temple in Sokcho. The

From the Nahanjeon (Hall of Disciples) of Seonghyeolsa Temple, Yeongju harmonious coexistence of flowers, butterflies, birds, fish, and tortoises epitomizes the Land of Lotus Flower, where all beings are interconnected.

The aesthetic of flower-patterned doors is derived from Koreans’ unique cosmology underpinned by their closeness to nature. These flower doors are splendid, but neither pretentious nor imposing. They are respectful of life and nature, and impart gentleness and kindness, just like the Korean people who created them.

From the Daejangjeon (Hall of the Great Tripitaka) of Yongmunsa Temple, Yecheon From the Yaksajeon (Medicine Buddha Hall) of Temple,

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HERITAGE ISSUES TODAY

HERITAGE Retaining walls surrounding the terrace for the hall at Manwoldae (Hoegyeongjeon) and large staircases at the front for Cultural Connection (photo courtesy of the South and North Korean Historians' Council)

Seemingly isolated histories are in fact interconnected Joint South-North Project on across geography and throughout time. Underlying Manwoldae in Kaesong these global connections transcending space and Text by Cho Eun-kyung, National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage time are culture and heritage. South and Photos by the National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage and the South and North Korean Historians' Council are taking steps toward charting a new future through joint research Manwoldae, the site of the main An ICOMOS expert performing a field Joseon Dynasty in 1392. More importantly, palace of the Goryeo Dynasty. In addition, official evaluation in Kaesong, North Korea in this cultural collaboration overcoming development assistance projects being implemented October 2007 for the World Heritage the long-standing political and military by South Korea to support the conservation of nomination of historic sites in the city confrontation between the two heritage sites in Laos and Myanmar are helping expressed admiration for the spirit of inter- embodies their unshakable commitment to to revive crucial legacies from the past. The body Korean cooperation embodied in the joint the conservation of their shared culture and responsible for these cultural cooperation programs, excavation of the main Goryeo Dynasty (918– heritage. the Cultural Heritage Administration, is striving daily 1392) palace site, Manwoldae. The concerted to strengthen global interconnectivity. efforts by both South and North Korea on Manwoldae, a Nostalgic Palace Ruin Manwoldae have contributed to unearthing historical information about this dynasty Manwoldae, literally meaning “full-moon terrace,” that ruled the Korean Peninsula for nearly is a Joseon-era nickname given to the site of 500 years before being replaced by the the main palace of Goryeo. The early-Joseon

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geography Sinjeung dongguk yeoji seungnam (Enlarged Edition of the Augmented ) mentions Manwoldae as “staircases in front of the throne hall.” Junggyeongji, later-Joseon records on the administrative district of Kaesong, recounts, “a mang-wol-dae [literally, ‘moon-gazing terrace’] was inside the palace [of Goryeo] and has mistakenly been known by the similar-sounding name Man-wol-dae.” It is presumed that after the Goryeo palace was reduced to ruins with only the retaining walls supporting the terrace of the throne hall and four staircases on the front side of the walls remaining, the people of Kaesong would stand in the empty terrace and watch the moon wax and wane while experiencing a sense of nostalgia for the Excavated roof tiles, , and metal type; these provide evidence of both everyday and vanished dynasty of Goryeo. This would have inspired ritual life in the of Goryeo. the name “full-moon terrace,” or Manwoldae. Goryeo dynasty planners placed a complex of After a series of working-level discussions, an area had been excavated. buildings on the sloped terrain at the southern foot of 100,000 square meters comprising the western The revealed of Songaksan Mountain to form the main palace section of Manwoldae was selected as the subject composition compound. Different spaces were rendered on for the joint excavation. Beginning with a trial dig mainly consisted terraces of varying heights interconnected by gates in 2007, eight collaborative excavation research of Hoegyeongjeon, and corridors. The close-set buildings that have sessions had been carried out by South and North Janghwajeon, and been excavated at Manwoldae differ in their layout, Korean researchers by the end of 2018. So far, an Wondeokjeon Halls. testifying to the diversity of the activities and functions area of 19,770 square meters has been excavated Other areas of Manwoldae remained in the dark, once undertaken at the Goryeo main palace. and about 17,900 finds have been cataloged. and the numerous building names appearing in Despite suffering a succession of suspensions Joseon records referring to royal structures in the and resumptions, the joint excavation project for main palace of Goryeo could not be matched with Historic Commencement of Manwoldae is the longest-running inter-Korean their locations. Joint Research cultural collaboration to date and is expected to continue for at least another 10 years into the future. The joint excavation project for Manwoldae was The Western Section of The main palace of Goryeo was presumably initiated by a 2005 inter-Korean agreement on Manwoldae Brought to Light comprised of a central group of buildings set on cooperation for the World Heritage inscription and relatively higher terrain, including the throne conservation of historic sites in Kaesong. Within the The collaborative investigation on the area housing hall Hoegyeongjeon, an eastern group of buildings the western group of buildings has uncovered Above_ Remains of retaining walls of Manwoldae built to create level framework of this agreement, South Korea searched accommodating spaces for the crown prince, a plots on the sloping terrain hard for plausible ways to support North Korea’s diverse building sites and artifacts, deepening western group of buildings comprising royal living the understanding of the royal court of Goryeo. Below_ The excavated site of Gyeongnyeongjeon Hall, where portraits efforts to enter Kaesong sites onto the World Heritage quarters and governing spaces, and an area in front of King Taejo, the founder of Goryeo, and his direct ancestors were List. Joint excavation of a heritage site in Kaesong was The joint research team has excavated five sets of enshrined of the central cluster of buildings that had a royal considered an effective form of inter-Korean cultural retaining walls terraced to suit the surrounding field and pavilion-shaped gates. When the two cooperation, given its intrinsic extended duration and terrain, as well as staircases and gates linking Koreas first embarked on the joint research project the expected interactions with people living in the city. the respective terraces. In particular, it has been for Manwoldae, only the central group of buildings confirmed that the western section of the palace

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Researchers from South and North Korea engage in constant dialogue as they work on the excavation. was situated in an area about 12 meters lower than in the southern portion of the western section of the central section, and the two sections of the palace Manwoldae in November 2015 during the seventh were separated by south-north retaining walls and joint excavation session. It provides evidence of the connected by staircases. state-led production of metal type during Goryeo. According to the findings, the buildings were Subsequent North Korean research reported in April laid out facing different directions on each of the 2016 that they had found four more pieces of metal The World Heritage Site “Vat Phou and Associated Ancient Settlements within the Champasak Cultural Landscape” terraced flat land plots, and each building comprised type. a separate space surrounded by corridors. This layout clearly shows the compositional asymmetry Since 2013, the Cultural Heritage Administration and multiple axes that characterize the palace Significance of the South-North Joint The Nang Sida and the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation architecture of Goryeo. A magnificent bird’s-eye Excavation of the western group of buildings that shows Temple at have been carrying out a heritage restoration the interconnected, overlapping roofs of buildings The South-North joint excavation team starts project at the World Heritage Site “Vat Phou constructed on terraced land can now be imagined. each day in the field with a discussion of the daily and Associated Ancient Settlements within About forty building sites have been excavated in investigation schedule. Archeologists from South and Vat Phou this western section of Manwoldae, and some have North rejoiced together with each discovery of new the Champasak Cultural Landscape” in Laos. been matched to names from documentary records. finds and joined forces for their interpretation and Reemerges from The subject of this international conservation Most notably, a building site that produced relics conservation. Different opinions on how to interpret endeavor is a collapsed stone structure called from ritual facilities has been confirmed to be and preserve the findings sometimes arise, but these the Darkness Nang Sida Temple, which is situated in the south Gyeongnyeongjeon Hall, the site where portraits differences have consistently been resolved and Text by Baek Kyung-hwan, chief of the Korean of the Vat Phou temple complex. Transmitted of King Taejo, the founder of Goryeo, and his direct satisfactory decisions have been reached through research team at Vat Phou, Korea Cultural Heritage ancestors were enshrined. discussion. The joint excavation team is working Foundation to the present only as archaeological ruins, the Everyday articles and ritual objects that were toward the collective goal of finding the best possible Photos by the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation Nang Sida Temple, or the “Chamber of Princess used in the royal court of Goryeo have also been ways to preserve and enhance public appreciation of Sida,” is now well on its way to revealing its unearthed, including diverse types of Goryeo celadon Manwoldae. It is hoped that this spirit of cooperation original appearance through the ongoing such as cups, maebyeong vases, and pillows. Roof tiles and dialogue can be sustained and eventually inscribed with information on their production sites translated into an integral conservation on this restoration work of a Korean research team. have been found as well. What is most remarkable, shared heritage of South and North Korea. however, is a piece of metal type that was uncovered

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An Imperial Symbol Crushed extended process of decay and has long stood The temple could not be accessed by car as there were no by Time only as rubble. passable roads, and its cella was completely buried under The restoration project for this collapsed rubble. With little available historical information on the Laos is a landlocked nation on the Indochina temple by the Cultural Heritage Administration temple, the research team carried out archaeological and Peninsula bordered by Myanmar and China to and carried out by the Korea Cultural Heritage documentary research to lay a foundation for restoration. the northwest, Vietnam to the east, Cambodia Foundation is being performed as a form of wThey created a space for the conservation treatment to the south, and to the west. Officially official development assistance (ODA) provided of stones, and repair work was conducted on damaged known as the Lao People’s Democratic Republic, to Laos. Following the groundbreaking bridges and muddy pathways to secure better access it is one of the few places in our rapidly changing ceremony in October 2013, three years had to be to the temple. The newly established access roads are a A gilt-bronze yoni, or representation of female world that can boast of such a pristine natural dedicated to preliminary research and two more particular boon not only for the field workers, but also for reproductive organs, excavated from the and cultural environment. It is often described to establishing an environment conducive to local residents and tourists. Nang Sida Temple by those who have visited as nostalgic area the conservation work. After these preparatory Original architectural members long buried untouched by time. endeavors, the temple has finally entered the underground have been unearthed to the greatest Among the World Heritage Sites in Laos process of disassembly this year. possible extent. Over the two years from 2017 to 2018, 675 is the Champasak cultural landscape, which stone members were collected, including major structural includes the Nang Sida Temple. This 12th elements such as columns and capitals. Also found century temple is situated at the starting point Bilateral Cooperation through are sculpted images of Hindu deities such as Ganesha, of an ancient Khmer road that stretched all the Culture Garuda, and Naga. These finds will be utilized for the way to Angkor in today’s Cambodia. Presumably ultimate purpose of enhancing authenticity and avoiding Left_ The Nang Sida Temple at Vat Phou associated with pilgrimage activities, the When the Korean ODA project for the Nang conjecture in the restoration work. before the start of conservation work

Nang Sida Temple once served as a symbol of Sida Temple was launched, the situation in the The Nang Sida Temple restoration project is being Right_ After disassembly of the platform of the imperial glory of Khmer but suffered an field was difficult for the Korean research team. conducted in combination with other assistance programs the Nang Sida Temple

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Left_ A conservation site for stone elements built at the facility of the Nang Sida Temple Right_ A groundbreaking ceremony for the improvement of the access roads

aimed at capacity-building in the heritage field to promote sustainable development. Joint research has been conducted with tthe World Heritage Site Office for Vat Phou, and conservation equipment has been provided along with technical training sessions in the field. In addition, heritage professionals from Laos at the working and managerial levels have been invited to South Korea to receive master’s-level education and study A panoramic view of Bagan (photo by Hong Seok-il) heritage policy and management through a range of training programs.

Princess Sida’s Chamber to Shine Once Again Myanmar’s Bagan Rises This year kicked off the main thrust of the restoration project—disassembling and Again then reassembling the collapsed temple. A series of valuable artifacts have already been found during the process of taking apart the Nang Sida Temple. Most notably, a gilt-bronze yoni, or representation of female reproductive organs, and votive objects A serious earthquake struck western Myanmar in 2016 Text by Kim Dong-min, Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation buried to drive away evil spirits were discovered in February of this year, attracting and wreaked havoc on the numerous Buddhist temples Photos by the Korea Cultural passionate attention from the public in Laos. The gilt-bronze yoni, the first of its kind and of the ancient city of Bagan. The international Heritage Foundation and Hong Seok-il ever excavated in Laos, has been widely publicized in South Korea as well, providing community responded immediately to the damage to this an opportunity to raise awareness of the culture and history of the Khmer Empire. heritage site of global importance and joined forces for The Cultural Heritage Administration and the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation its recovery. The Cultural Heritage Administration and its are working toward restoring the original form of the Nang Sida Temple. Underlying affiliated agency the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation this goal, however, is the principle of evidence-based conservation. The Korean research team will only restore the Nang Sida Temple to the extent that can be have been participating actively in this effort. supported by historical evidence and cease their efforts when conjecture become unavoidable. Long obscured in darkness under rubble, the Nang Sida Temple seems to be Earthquake Damage to the Splendid gradually revealing hints of its original appearance. It is hoped that more evidence Legacy of the Pagan Empire from the temple’s past will be unveiled in the future to support a full and authentic restoration. The extensive plain along the Ayeyarwady River provided a base for the development of agriculture and emergence of ancient states in

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Left_ Buddhist temples and tower over the thick forest at Bagan. A Korean research team carries out research on the ground surface at the Phayathonzu Temple. Right_ The Sulamani Temple had been restored using steel and concrete, but could not withstand the earthquake in 2016 and partially collapsed.

the region. The Pagan Empire, the first polity to unite Wetkyi-in, Myinkaba, and Thiripyitsaya; kiln sites survived to the present in the form of images on the A major recipient of international assistance in the what is today Myanmar under a single rule, was also for firing bricks have also been found at Chindwin. walls of Buddhist temples and ancient tombs. During years after the Korean War (1950–53), South Korea born out of the Ayeyarwady River—specifically at Bricks were laid with earth in between to absorb the the process of maintaining and restoring these has emerged as an example of economic success Bagan. force of earthquakes. wall paintings, the country has made continuous and become the first recipient of help from the The Pagan Empire period witnessed the zenith Located at the confluence of the Indian and advancements in conservation science and is international community to emerge as a donor of Buddhism. At the time, numerous Eurasian Plates, the western section of Myanmar has currently recognized for its accumulated expertise in country. Since joining the Organization for Economic temples and stupas were built at Bagan, many even long suffered from earthquakes of all scales. A major the restoration and preservation of murals. The time Cooperation and Development’s Development decorated with gold in accordance with the - seismic event in 1975 caused massive destruction was ripe to translate the knowledge and skill gained Assistance Committee as the 24th member in 2009, making practices of Theravada Buddhism. This at Bagan, leading the government to undertake a by South Korea in conserving its own heritage into South Korea has been expanding its relevant budget practice was spurred by the rich reservoir of gold major restoration of the Buddhist heritage at the a successful official development assistance (ODA) while diversifying the areas of support. Cultural in the area. More than anything else, however, the stricken ancient city. This initiative, however, was project for earthquake-stricken Bagan in Myanmar. heritage, a foremost source of national pride and amazing cluster of Buddhist monuments currently not supported by a complete understanding of The focus of this ODA project in Bagan is a identity, has an immense power to unify a nation standing at Bagan—numbering more than 3,800— conservation science and consequently actually small temple called Phayathonzu in the village of and move it forward. As a place of spiritual comfort serves as eloquent testimony to the omnipresence undermined the heritage value of Bagan. When Minnanthu. Started in 2018, the six-year conservation for the people of Myanmar, Bagan can also serve as a of Buddhism in the lives of the people of the Pagan another severe earthquake took place in August 2016, project aims to unlock the academic value of Bagan, driving force for national restoration and economic period. This architectural and artistic legacy of the international community rose to the challenge. apply conservation treatment to Phayathonzu development. It is hoped that South Korea’s ODA the Buddhist practice of the Pagan Empire was Alongside UNESCO and official efforts from Japan, Temple, and organize technical training sessions. project will add to Myanmar’s effort to surmount collectively inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage Germany, Italy, India, China, Thailand, and more, All of these activities will ultimately enhance the its current economic difficulties and achieve an List in 2019. South Korea has rushed to take part in recovery conservation capacity of the government entity abundance to match that of the Pagan Empire. The temples and stupas at Bagan were mainly efforts at Bagan. responsible for the conservation of Bagan, the constructed of bricks, but there are sandstone Department of Archaeology and National Museum structures as well. The sandstone found in and under the Ministry of Culture and Religious Affairs. around Myanmar is softer than in other regions South Korean Conservation Science The heritage conservation project at Bagan is and easily subject to erosion. This explains the Helps Bagan Rise Again expected to bolster the already-favorable attitudes predominance of bricks in the architectural material toward South Korea among the people in Myanmar of Bagan. Evidence of the collection of clay for South Korea is home to a time-honored tradition first developed through popular music and soap brickmaking still remains at nearby areas such as of mural painting, many examples of which have operas.

50 51 CULTURAL HERITAGE ADMINISTRATION Headlines

Korean Neo-Confucian Academies Efforts toward a Joint South- Achieve World Heritage Status North Nomination of the DMZ

ine Joseon-era Neo-Confucian academies located in he Cultural Heritage Administration signed an the central and southern sections of South Korea agreement with South Korea’s Gyeonggi-do and were collectively inscribed on the World Heritage Gangwon-do provincial governments on July 11 NList at the 43rd session of the World Heritage Committee held Tdeclaring their intention to work with North Korea toward from June 30–July 10 in Baku, Azerbaijan. “, Korean jointly nominating the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) for Neo-Confucian Academies” is the 14th Korean heritage site to inscription on the World Heritage List. Within the framework be entered on the World Heritage List. of the agreement, the central and pertinent local governments The nine component Neo-Confucian academies are Sosu of South Korea will closely cooperate on an inter-Korean joint Seowon, , Byeongsan Seowon, Oksan Seowon, nomination for entry on the World Heritage List by the DMZ, Dodong Seowon, Namgye Seowon, Piram Seowon, Museong a strip of land running across the Korean Peninsula between Seowon, and Donam Seowon. Each of these had already been South and North Korea that symbolizes inter-Korean dialogue registered on the national heritage list as a Historic Site. and attempts at peace. The World Heritage Committee recognized how these The agreement specifies the responsibilities of respective seowon provide exceptional testimony to the cultural entities. The Cultural Heritage Administration will be in traditions associated with Neo- that have charge of organizing consultations with North Korea, forming continued to the present in South Korea in the form of a South-North working-level council, and superintending educational and social practices. They also illustrate the the World Heritage nomination process. The two provincial historical process of the development of Neo-Confucian governments have pledged to spare no effort in assisting the imported from China as it was adapted to suit Cultural Heritage Administration across the entire process. local Korean conditions. In close partnership with Gyeonggi-do and Gangwon-do, While unanimously favoring the inscription of the Cultural Heritage Administration is planning to take the the nine seowon on the World Heritage List, the World necessary practical steps toward the ultimate goal of joint Heritage Committee recommended that an integrated inscription, such as formulating a special act on South-North Children Playing Ganggangsullae; 2016 conservation plan be prepared for the component sites. joint nomination as World Heritage, conducting preliminary Ganggangsullae The Cultural Heritage Administration will be working on research on the DMZ and surrounding areas, and holding Ganggangsullae is a traditional circle dance performed by people holding hands and moving in a circle, the implementation of this recommendation in constant international symposiums on its significance as a World preferably under a full moon. The Korean circle dance tradition was entered onto the UNESCO intangible heritage list in 2009. communication with pertinent local governments and other Heritage property. The Cultural Heritage Administration stakeholders. will also push ahead with forming cooperative relations with Eunha Baek Eunha Baek combines lines in ink with dried flower petals to create artworks. She draws inspiration from relevant ministerial agencies such as the Ministry of National flower petals dried between pages of a book and turns them into completed pictures. Defense and the Ministry of Unification.

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