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26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 770

Index

Alfred’s Tower (Stourhead), 402 Lavenham, 570 Abbey, The, (Bury St. Alfriston, 324–329 , 210–211 Edmunds), 566 Alhambra Theatre (), Manchester, 619 Abbey Gardens (Tresco), 688 Norwich, 582 448–449 Alice’s Shop (), 266 St. Albans, 275 Abbey Theatre (St. Albans), 275 (London), 212 Stow-on-the-Wold, 485 Abbey Treasure Museum , 586 Stratford-upon-Avon, 508 (London), 171 Alum Bay (), 350 Windsor, 242 Abbot Hall Art Gallery (Kendal), The Amateur Dramatic Club Woburn, 278 644 (Cambridge), 559 Apple Market (London), 214 Aberconwy House (), 764 Ambleside, 651–654 Apsley House, The Wellington Abergavenny, 724–727 American Bar (London), 227–228 Museum (London), 184, 186 Abergavenny , 726 American Express Aquarium of the Lakes Abergavenny Museum, 726 , 713 (Lakeside), 649 Aberystwyth Musical Festival, London, 113 Arboretum Sensory Trail, 13 45–46 traveler’s checks, 39 Arbour Antiques (Stratford- Accommodations The American Museum (Bath), upon-Avon), 508 best, 14–17 385 , 23–30 surfing for, 55–56 The American Museum books about, 85 tips on, 76–80 (Claverton), 8 Arlington Row (Bibury), 475 Acorn Bank Garden & Watermill Amgueddfa Armouries (London), 167 (Penrith), 667–668 Museum, 769 Arnolfini Portrait, 176 Adam and Eve (Norwich), 583 Ampleforth Abbey, 695 Aromatherapy, 81 Adam & Eve Tavern (Lincoln), Anchor (Cambridge), 559 Art, 20–23 605 Andrew Lamputt (), books about, 85 Addison’s Walk (Oxford), 262 531 Art galleries, Lincoln, 607 Admiral Duncan (London), 226 Angel Tavern (Cardiff), 724 The Art Gallery (Scarborough), Afternoon tea, 11 Anglesey, Isle of, 758–761 698 Ain’t Nothing But Blues Bar Anne Hathaway’s Cottage Arthur’s Stone, 737 (London), 222 (Stratford-upon-Avon), 504 Arts and crafts. See also Airfares Anne of Cleves House (Lewes), Ceramics and ; surfing for, 54–55 328 and porcelain tips for getting the best, 60–61 Anthony Preston Antiques Cambridge, 558 Airlines, 58–61, 71–72 (Stow-on-the-Wold), 485 Cardiff, 722, 723 Airport security, 59–60 Antiquarius Antiques Centre Chester, 636 Alberry’s Wine & Food Bar (London), 210 Chipping Campden, 494 (Canterbury), 288COPYRIGHTEDAntiques, 3–4, 80–83 MATERIALLiverpool, 629 Albert Dock (Liverpool), 626 Bath, 387–388 London, 211 Albert Memorial (London), 7, 30 Boughton, 637 Manchester, 619 Aldeburgh, 574–576 Bristol, 395 Museum of Lakeland Life Aldeburgh Festival of Music and Burford, 478 (Blackpool), 644 the Arts, 44, 575 Cardiff, 723 Nottingham, 599 Alexander Keiller Museum Cheltenham, 473 St. Mary’s, 448 (), 376–377 Chester, 636 Stratford-upon-Avon, 508 Alexandra Theatre Chipping Campden, 494 Arts Café (), 685 (), 523 the , 463 Arundel and , Alfies Antique Market (London), , 412 310–312 210–211 , 408 Arundel Cathedral, 312 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 771

INDEX 771

A. Sanderson & Sons Bateman’s (Burwash), 323 Beaulieu Abbey- House, (Manchester), 619 Bath, 7, 95, 377–390 10, 349 Ascot, 246–248 accommodations, 378–382 Beaux Arts Gallery (Bath), 388 The Ascot Festival, 46 nightlife, 388–390 Bed & breakfasts (B&Bs), 77 , 247–248 restaurants, 382–384 best, 16–17 Ashby Castle, 590 shopping, 387–388 Bell Harry Tower (Canterbury), Ashmolean Museum (Oxford), sights and attractions, 284–285 265 384–387 Castle (near Grantham), Assembly Rooms (Bath), 386 transportation, 378 590 At-Bristol, 393 traveling to, 377–378 Bermondsey Market (London), Athelhampton House & Gardens visitor information, 378 215 (Dorchester), 360–361 walking tours, 385, 388 Berwick Street Market ATMs (automated-teller Bath Abbey, 385 (London), 214 machines), 38 Bath and beauty products, 81 Bethnal Green Museum of The Attic (Manchester), 620 London, 211 Childhood (London), 205 Attingham Park (Shrewsbury), Bath Boating Station, 386 Betws-y-Coed, 13, 750–752 538 Bath International Music Bibury, 13, 474–476 Auckland Walk, 705 Festival, 43, 378 (London), 171 Austen, Jane, 4 The Bath Stamp & Coin Shop, Big Bus Company Ltd. (London), Centre (Bath), 385 388 206 Chawton Cottage, 336–337 Battersea Park (London), 199 Biking and mountain biking, Avebury, 5, 376–377 Battle, 295, 297–298 65–66 Avon Brewery Inn (Salisbury), Battle Abbey, 6, 297–298 The Broads, 582 375 Bayard’s Cove (Dartmouth), 427 Cambridge, 548 Aylesbury, 270–272 Bayswater Road (London), Canterbury, 281 Aysgarth, 693 214–215 C2C national cycle route, 705 BBC Philharmonic (Manchester), the Cotswolds, 459–460 620 Hamsterley Forest, 705 Baa Bar (Liverpool), 630 Beach Blanket Babylon London, 113 Bacon, Francis, 23, 175, 581 (London), 228 Malvern Hills, 527 Baggott Church Street (Stow- Beaches Peak District National Park, on-the-Wold), 485 Blackpool, 637 592 Bakewell, 595–597 Bournemouth, 357–358 St. Mary’s, 447 Ballare (Cambridge), 559 Chesil Beach, 331, 363 , 376 The Bank Statement (), near and Birdland (Bourton-on-the- 736 , 363 Water), 480 Banqueting House (London), Deal, 290 Birmingham, 33, 514–523 182 , 736 accommodations, 516–519 Banqueting Room (), Hayle, 455 nightlife, 522–523 319 , 446 restaurants, 519–520 Bants Carn (St. Mary’s), 447 Looe area, 437 shopping, 522 Barbara Hepworth Museum and Newquay, 456 sights and attractions, Garden (St. Ives), 455 , 737 520–522 Barber Institute of Fine Arts St. Davids, 743 transportation, 516 (Birmingham), 521 Swansea, 735 traveling to, 515–516 The Barbican (Plymouth), Torquay, 418 visitor information, 516 427, 429 Whitesands, 743 Birmingham Hippodrome, 523 Barbican Centre (London), 219 Bear Inn (Oxford), 267 Birmingham Museum and Art Barbican Theatre—Royal The Beatles, in Liverpool Gallery, 522 Shakespeare Company The Beatles Story, 626 Birmingham Repertory Theatre, (London), 217 bus tours, 625–626 523 The Bar Convent (York), 672 Cavern Club, 629, 630 Birmingham Royal Ballet, 523 Barnard Castle, 705 International Beatles Week Bishop’s Palace (St. Davids), 745 Bar Rumba (London), 223 (Liverpool), 46, 621 The Black Country Living Bar SA1 (Swansea), 736 The McCartney House, 627 Museum (Birmingham), 522 The Bartlett Street Antiques memorabilia, 629 Black Obelisk (London), 173 Centre (Bath), 387 Beatrix Potter Gallery Blackpool, 637–640 Bassenthwaite, 663–664 (Hawkshead), 659 The Black Swan (“The Dirty Batchwood Hall Beauchamp Tower (London), Duck”; Stratford-upon-Avon), (St. Albans), 274 167 503 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 772

772 INDEX

The Black Swan (York), 678–679 Bradford, 686–689 Brontë Parsonage Museum Blake, William, 22, 170, 175 Brantwood (Coniston), 659 (), 690 Blakesley Hall (Birmingham), Brass Rubbing Centre (London), Brontë sisters, 180 521 196 Haworth, 689, 690 (Woodstock), Brecon, 727–731 Brontë Weaving Shed 10, 94, 269 Brecon Beacons National Park, (Haworth), 690 Blickling Hall (Norwich), 580 727, 730–731 Broseley Pipeworks Blists Hill Victorian Town Brecon Castle, 727–728 (Ironbridge), 541 (Ironbridge), 541 Brewery Arts Centre Brown, Capability, 28, 99, 269, Bloody Tower (London), 167 (Cirencester), 467 345, 365, 597, 691 Bloomsbury (London), 194 Brewery Arts Centre (Kendal), Brynkir Woollen Mill , 329 644–645 (Porthmadog), 754 Boating (boat rentals). See also The Bridge Inn (Leeds), 685 Buckden, 693 Punting Bridgewater Canal Buckfast Butterflies & Dartmoor Bath, 386 (Manchester), 618 Otter Sanctuary (Totnes), 423 Coniston, 658 The Bridgewater Hall (London), Durham, 704 (Manchester), 620 173–174 Wroxham, 582 Bridlington, 696 County Boat tours and cruises Brighton, 97–98, 312–324 Museum (Aylesbury), 271 Birmingham, 521 accommodations, 314–317 The Bull & Gate (London), 221 Canterbury, 288 gay-friendly, 322 The Bullring (Birmingham), 522 Dartmouth, 426 nightlife, 321–324 Burberry (London), 212 London, 206–207 restaurants, 317–319 Burford, 476–478 Tate to Tate boat, 175 shopping, 320 Burghley Horse Trials, 46 Lynmouth, 434–435 sights and attractions, Burlington Arcade (London), 208 Mapledurham House, 251 319–320 Bursted Manor Riding Centre Plymouth, 430 transportation, 314 (Canterbury), 288 St. Agnes, 450 traveling to, 313 Bury New Road (Manchester), Ullswater, 665 visitor information, 314 619 Windermere, 4, 649, 658–659 , 321 Bury St. Edmunds, 564–568 Windsor, 242 Brighton Festival, 43, 314 The Bury St. Edmunds Festival, Worcester, 525 Brighton Museum & Art Gallery, 565 Wroxham, 582 319–320 Business hours, 87 Bodleian Library Shop (Oxford), Bristol, 390–395 Bus travel, 62–63, 73–76 266 Bristol Cathedral, 394 (Cardiff), 721 Books, recommended, 84–87 The Bristol Harbour, 393 , 592–595 Boots the Chemists (London), Bristol Old Vic, 395 Buxton Festival, 593 211 Britain and London Visitor Bygones of Worcester, 526 Borrowdale, 661–662 Centre (London), 103 Byland Abbey (near Wass), 695 Bosham, 13 Britannia Bridge (Isle of Bosworth Battlefield Visitor Anglesey), 758 Centre and Country Park British Airways London Eye, Cabinet War Rooms (London), (near Nuneaton), 590–591 12, 197 1, 181 Botanic Gardens (Oxford), 265 British Airways Travel Shop Caernarfon, 755–758 Botticelli, Sandro, 176, 179, 521 (London), 214 , 746, Bournemouth, 330–331, & Common- 757–758 354–359 wealth Museum (Bristol), (Cardiff), Bournemouth Symphony 2, 394 719–720 Orchestra, 357 British Library (London), 186 Caldy Island (Tenby), 740–741 Bourton Model Railway Exhibi- British Mohair Spinners Calendar of events, 42–47 tion and Toy Shop (Bourton- (Bradford), 688 Cambridge, 34, 546–559 on-the-Water), 480 British Museum (London), 8,173 accommodations, 548–551 Bourton-on-the-Water, 478–482 Britten, Benjamin, 575 nightlife, 559 Bowes Museum (Barnard Broadlands (near ), organized tours, 553 Castle), 706 345 restaurants, 551–553 Bowness-on-Windermere, Broadway, 488–491 shopping, 558 645–651 Broadway Tower Country Park, transportation, 548 Bow Wine Vaults (London), 229 490 traveling to, 548 The Box (London), 226 Brontë, Anne, 698 visitor information, 548 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 773

INDEX 773

Camden Arts Centre (London), (Malton), Cheltenham, 96, 470–474 211 690–691 Cheltenham Art Gallery & Camden Market (London), 215 Castle on St. Michael’s Mount, Museum, 473 Camden Passage (London), 215 444–445 Cheltenham Festival of Camfest (Cambridge), 548 Castle Square (Caernarfon), 757 Literature, 47 Candy Bar (London), 226 , 736 Chemistry (Cheltenham), 474 Cantaloupe (London), 228 Cathedral Church of Christ The Cherry Tree (Canterbury), Canterbury, 280–289 (Liverpool), 626–627 288 Canterbury Cathedral, Cathedral of St. Albans, 274 The Cherub (Dartmouth), 426 9, 284–285 Cathedral of Swansea and Cherwell Boathouse (Oxford), Canterbury Pottery, 288 Brecon (Brecon), 728 263 , Cathedral of the Moor Cheshire (Chester), 636 285–286 (Widecombe), 416 Chesil Beach, 331, 363 Canterbury Tales Cathedrals, best, 9 Chester, 631–637 (Canterbury), 286 Cavendish House (Cheltenham), Chester Cathedral, 636 Captain Cook Memorial 473 Chester Fringe Festival, 632 Museum (Whitby), 702 Cavern Club (Liverpool), Chester Summer Music Festival, Car breakdowns, 71 629, 630 631 Cardiff, 2, 710, 712–724 Cavern Pub (Liverpool), 630 Chester Visitor Centre, 635 accommodations, 714–717 Cecil Sharpe House (London), Chester , 636 doctors and dentists, 713 222 Chichester, 306–309 drugstores, 713 , 737 Chichester Festival Theatre, gay club, 724 Cellphones, 57–58 43, 308–309 hospitals, 713 Ceramics and pottery Chideock, 361–363 Internet access, 714 Canterbury, 288 Children, families with nightlife, 723 Ludlow, 535 information and resources, parks and gardens, 721–722 Penrith, 667 52–53 police, 714 Rye, 294 suggested itineraries, 96–98 post office, 714 Stoke-on-Trent, 543–545 China and porcelain, 81 restaurants, 717–719 Ceremony of the Keys (London), Barlaston, 545 shopping, 722–723 167, 170 Chipping Campden, 494 sights and attractions, Cézanne, Paul, 176, 187, 558 Ironbridge, 541 719–722 Chagford, 413–416 Salisbury, 374 transportation, 712–713 Chalfont St. Giles, 246 Stoke-on-Trent, 544 traveling to, 712 Changing of the guard Worcester, 526 visitor information, 713 London Chinese New Year (London), 42 , 720 Buckingham Palace, 174 Chipping Campden, 13, 491–494 Cardiff Festival, 45 Horse Guards Building, Chipping (), 464 Carfax Tower (Oxford), 263 182 Christ Church (Oxford), 263–264 Cargo (London), 223 Windsor, 240 Christ Church Gate Castle (Isle of Chapter (Cardiff), 724 (Canterbury), 285 Wight), 353 Chapter House (Canterbury), Christ Church Picture Gallery Carlyle’s House (London), 194 285 (Oxford), 264 Carnaby Street (London), 212 Charles I Commemoration Christie, Agatha, 129, 418, 421, Car racing, Chichester, 309 (London), 42 464 Car rentals, 69 Charleston Farmhouse, 329 Churchill, Sir Winston, 171, 181 surfing for, 56 Charmouth, 361–363 (near Edenbridge), Car travel, 69–71 Chartwell (near Edenbridge), 300 from continental Europe, 61 300 Museum (London), 182 Castell & Son (The Varsity Shop; Chatsworth (near Bakewell), Churchill Square (Brighton), 320 Oxford), 266 597 The Church Inn (Ludlow), 535 Castle Arcade (Cardiff), 722 Chaucer Bookshop (Canterbury), Church Island, 759 Castle Combe, 389–390 288 Church of St. John the Baptist Castle Drogo (Drewsteignton), Chavenage House (Tetbury), 464 (Cirencester), 467 415 Chawton Cottage, 336–337 Church of St. Lawrence (West Castlefield (Manchester), Chawton House Library, 337 Wycombe), 244–245 12, 618 Cheddar Showcaves & Gorge Church of St. Mary (Haworth), Castle (Winchester), (Wells), 397 690 334–335 Chelsea Flower Show Church of St. Mary (London), 43 (Scarborough), 698 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 774

774 INDEX

Church of St. Mary (Whitby), Cornwall, 33, 436–458 Currency and currency 701 Cotswold Falconry Centre exchange, 38 Church of St. Michael (Moreton-in-Marsh), 486 Customs regulations, 36–38 (Haworth), 690 Cotswold Motor Museum (Bour- Cutty Sark (), 204 Cider Museum (Hereford), ton-on-the-Water), 480–481 Cwmdonkin Park (Swansea), 531–532 Cotswold Perfumery (Bourton- 735 The Circus (Bath), 384 on-the-Water), 481 Cirencester, 464–467 The Cotswolds, 2, 3, 33, 96, Cittie of Yorke (London), 230 459–494 Dales Countryside Museum City Arms (Cardiff), 724 The Cotswolds Way, 14 (Hawes), 693 City Hall (London), 187 Cotswold Water Park The Dales Way, 692 The City Hall (Salisbury), 375 (Cirencester), 466 Dalí Universe (London), 187 Festival, 44 Dan-yr-Ogof Showcaves, 731 Civil War Centre (Worcester), (near Burford), 478 Darby Houses (Ironbridge), 541 526 Council House (Birmingham), Dark Peak, 592 (London), 178 520 Dartmoor National Park, Cleveland Walk, 695 Courtauld Gallery (London), 13–14, 413–418 Clifton Suspension Bridge 187 Dartmouth, 424–427 (Bristol), 393 The Couverture Shop (London), Dartmouth Castle, 427 Climate, 41 213 Dartmouth Museum, 427 Clipping Feast (Painswick), 468 (London), 11–12 Darwin, Charles, 171, 514 , 245–246 Covent Garden Market Darwin Centre (London), 191 Clock Tower (Leicester), 590 (London), 214 Down House (Downe), Clouds Hill (Wareham), 358 Coventry, 513–514 300–301 Clovelly, 13, 430–432 Coventry Cathedral, 514 Dashwood Mausoleum (West Clumber (Sherwood (Isle of Wight), 350 Wycombe), 245 Forest), 601 Coxwold, 695 David Linley (London), Clumber Park, 601 Craft Centre and Design Gallery 213 Coach and Eight (Durham), 705 (Leeds), 684 David Morgan (Cardiff), 722 Coalbrookdale Museum Craft Gallery (Clovelly), 431 D-Day Museum (Southsea), 341 (Ironbridge), 541 Crafts. See also Ceramics and Deal Castle (Dover), 291 Coalport China Museum and Tar pottery; China and porcelain Dedham, 572–574 Tunnel (Ironbridge), 541 Cambridge, 558 DeHavilland Aircraft Heritage Coastal Path (Isle of Wight), 350 Cardiff, 722, 723 Center (near St. Albans), 275 Cobb Hall Centre (Lincoln), 605 Chester, 636 , 34, 591–597 Cockpit/The Rocket (Leeds), 685 Chipping Campden, 494 Derwent Walk, 705 Coleridge Cottage (Nether Liverpool, 629 , 2, 33, 405–435 Stowey), 404 London, 211 Diana, Princess of , College Garden (London), 171 Manchester, 619 177, 180, 345 Combe Sydenham Hall Museum of Lakeland Life Althorp, 586 (), 404 (Blackpool), 644 Memorial Fountain (London), The Comedy Store (London), Nottingham, 599 198 221 St. Mary’s, 448 Diana Princess of Wales Memor- The Commandery (Worcester), Stratford-upon-Avon, 508 ial Fountain London, 198 526 Creations (Leicester), 590 Dickens, Charles, 190, 536, 564 Coniston, 656–659 Credit cards, 41 Birthplace Museum The Conran Shop (London), 213 The Crescent (Buxton), 592 (), 341 Conservation Centre (Sherwood Crescent Arts Workshop House (London), 194 Forest), 601 (Scarborough), 698–699 D. I. Hart Silversmiths (Chipping The Conservation Centre Criccieth, 754–755 Campden), 494 (Liverpool), 627 , 754 Disabilities, travelers with, Constable, John, 22, 33, 95, 175, Cromwell, Oliver, 190, 197, 424, 50–51 176, 179, 188, 474, 558, 572, 464, 489 Doctor Brighton’s Bar 573 House of (Ely), 562 (Brighton), 322 Conwy, 763–764 The Cross (London), 223 Dog & Duck (London), 231 , 7, 764 Crown Jewels (London), 167 Dog and Partridge (Bury St. (Cirencester), Crufts Dog Show Edmunds), 567 5–6, 467 (Birmingham), 42 ruins, 748 The Corn Exchange Culpeper the Herbalist Castle, 752 (Cambridge), 559 (London), 211 Dorchester, 359–361 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 775

INDEX 775

Dorking, historic and Elgin Marbles (London), 173 Fitzwilliam Museum gardens in, 304–306 El Greco, 176, 265, 706 (Cambridge), 8, 557–558 , 33, 330 The Elizabethan Museum Flatford Mill (near Dedham), coastal towns, 361–364 (Totnes), 423 573–574 Dorset County Museum Ely, 560–562 Flea markets (Dorchester), 361 Ely Cathedral, 25, 561 Aylesbury, 270 Double Locks (Exeter), 413 Ely Museum, 561 Brighton, 320 Dove Cottage Tearoom and Emergencies, 88 London, 215 Restaurant (near Grasmere), Emmanuel College (Cambridge), Ludlow, 535 656 554 Flora London Marathon, 43 Dove Cottage/The Wordsworth The End (London), 224 Floris (London), 211 Museum (near Grasmere), 656 Enginiuty (Ironbridge), 541 Flying Horse (Canterbury), 289 Dover, 289–291 , 84 Fortnum & Mason (London), , 291 English National Opera 209–210 Down House (Downe), 300 (London), 219 , 6 Downing Street, no. 10, 182 Entry requirements, 36 Fountains Abbey & Studley Drake, Sir Francis, 181, 406, Equinox (London), 224 Royal, 691 410, 413, 427 Escorted tours, 64–65 Fox Talbot Museum (Lacock), House of (Yelverton), 415 Eton, 237–238 389 Driving rules and , 240–241 Framlingham Castle (near requirements, 70 Everyman Theatre Woodbridge), 576 Drunken Duck (Barnsgate), 658 (Cheltenham), 473, 474 Freud (Oxford), 266–267 Drusilla’s Park (Alfriston), 328 Exeter, 95, 405–413 Freud, Lucien, 23 Dry Bar (Manchester), 620 Exeter Cathedral, 410–411 Freud Museum (London), The Dukeries (Sherwood Exeter Festival, 44, 406 199–200 Forest), 601 Exeter Guildhall, 411 Frommers.com, 55 Dunster, 402–404 Exeter Phoenix, 412 Dunster Castle, 6, 403 Exmoor National Park, 403–404 Durham, 702–706 Explore At-Bristol, 393 Gabriel’s Wharf (London), 211 Durham Castle, 704 Gainsborough, Thomas, 21, 175, Durham Cathedral, 9, 25, 704 176, 200, 263, 278, 312, 366, The Durham Dales, 705 Fabric (London), 224 386, 387, 432, 521, 558, 567, Durham Folk Festival, 703 Families with children 586, 589, 590, 691 Durham Regatta, 703 information and resources, House of (Sudbury), 567–568 Duty-free airport shopping, 83 52–53 The Gardener’s Arms (Norwich), Dyffryn Gardens (Cardiff), 722 suggested itineraries, 96–98 583 Thomas Theatre Farmhouses, 77–78 Gardens (Swansea), 735 Fashions (clothing) best, 10–11 Dyson Perrins Museum Cambridge, 558 suggested itineraries, 98–100 (Worcester), 526 London, 212–213 Gardner Arts Centre (Brighton), Windsor, 243 321 The Fens, 33 The Garrick Inn (Stratford-upon- Eagle, The, (Cambridge), 559 Fenton House (London), 199 Avon), 503 Eagle and Child (Oxford), 261 Fenwick of Bond Street Gas Street Basin (Birmingham), East Anglia, 2, 33–34, 546 (London), 209 520–521 Easter Parade (London), 43 Ferries Gatwick Airport (London), Eastgate clock (Chester), 635 from continental Europe, 62 101–102 East Looe Beach, 437 Hawkshead, 657 G.A.Y. (London), 227 East Midlands, 584–607 Liverpool, 626 Gay and lesbian travelers The East Midlands, 34 Festival of Literature Brighton, 321–324 Eden Project (St. Austell), 440 (Cheltenham), 470–471 Cardiff, 724 Eden Project (Bodelva), 12 Ffair-y-Borth fair (Menai information and resources, 51 The Edge (London), 226–227 Bridge), 759 Liverpool, 630–631 , 445 Fighting Cock (Bradford), 689 G-Bar (Liverpool), 630–631 shrine of, 170 The Filofax Centre (London), 213 George (London), 232 1853 Gallery (Bradford), 688 First Out Café Bar (London), 227 George & Dragon (West Electricity, 87–88 Fishing, 66 Wycombe), 245 Elgar, Sir Edward, 527 Durham, 704 George III, 173, 202, 470 Birthplace Museum Mousehole, 451 (Worcester), 526 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 776

776 INDEX

Gerrards Cross, 246 The Guildhall (Charmouth), Heathrow Airport (London), 101 Giant’s Grave (), 363–364 Heaton Hall (Manchester), 617 737 Guildhall Art Gallery (London), Heaven (London), 227 Gifts and souvenirs, 81 188 Heffers of Cambridge, 558 Gilbert and Sullivan Festival Gulbenkian Theatre Heligan Gardens, 442 (Buxton), 593 (Canterbury), 288 Henley-on-Thames, 248–253 Gilbert Collection (London), Gumstoll Hill (Tetbury), 464 Henley Royal Regatta, 248, 250 187–188 , 47 Henry VII Chapel (London), 170 The Gladstone Pottery Museum Henry VIII, 270, 301, 302, 691 (Stoke-on-Trent), 543–544 Hepworth, Barbara, Museum Glastonbury Abbey, Hadrian’s Wall, 6, 665, 669, and Garden (St. Ives), 455 5, 95, 398–400 670, 706, 708–709 Hereford, 529–533 The Globe Inn (Chagford), 416 Halle Orchestra (Manchester), Hereford Cathedral, 532 Glyndebourne Opera Festival, 620 Hereford Market, 531 43, 327–328 Hall’s Croft (Stratford-upon- Heritage of Arundel Museum, Glynn Vivian Art Gallery Avon), 504, 506 312 (Swansea), 735 Halmpstone Manor, 432 Hermitage Rooms at Somerset Golden Cross (Oxford), 265–266 Hamleys (London), 214 House (London), 188–189 Golden Mile (Leicester), 588 , 32–33, 330 Herriot, James, 695–696 Golden Rule (Ambleside), 653 Hampstead, 110 & Gardens (near Golf, 66–67 Hampstead Heath (London), Edenbridge), 10, 303 Aldeburgh, 576 110, 199 Hexham, 706–709 Bournemouth, 358 Hampstead Village (London), Hickman’s Almshouses St. Albans, 274 199 (Aylesbury), 271 Scarborough, 702 Hampton Court (between Here- Hidcote Manor Garden Goodwood Motor Circuit (near ford and Leominster), 532 (Chipping Campden), 494 Chichester), 309 High Force, 705 Goose O.V.T. (Birmingham), 523 (London), 7, 94, 98, 99, Highgate (Criccieth), 754 Gordale Scar, 692 200–201 Highgate (London), 110 Gower Peninsula, 736–737 Hamsterley Forest, 705 Highgate Cemetery (London), The Graduate (Cambridge), 559 Harding House Gallery (Lincoln), 200 The Grand Theatre (Swansea), 605 Highgrove (near Tetbury), 460 736 (near High Street (Broadway), 490 Grantchester, 557 Chesterfield), 597 High Town (Hereford), 531 Grasmere, 4–5, 654–656 Hardy, Thomas, 359–361 Hikes and nature walks. See Grassington, 692 Cottage (Dorchester), 361 also specific trails and walk- Great Britain, SS (Bristol), 394 & Bird ing tours The Great Cotswold Ramble, Garden, 691 best, 13–14 14, 482 Harrods (London), 210 Brantwood (Coniston), 659 , 764, 768 Harvard House (Stratford-upon- Cirencester, 466 Great Orme Tramway, 768 Avon), 506 Cornish Coastal Footpath, 452 Great St. Mary’s (Cambridge), Hastings, 295–298 the Cotswolds, 459–460, 482 558 Hastings Castle, 6, 298 The Dales Way, 692 The Green Man (Grantchester), (near St. Dartmoor National Park, 557 Albans), 10, 275–276 13–14, 417–418 Green Park (London), 198 Hathaway, Anne, Cottage Durham area, 705 Greenwich, 110, 202–204 (Stratford-upon-Avon), 504 Exmoor National Park, Grenadier (London), 229 Hawes, 693–694 403–404 Grimes Graves (Ely), 561–562 Hawkshead, 656–659 The Great Cotswold Ramble, Groombridge Place Gardens, Haworth, 5, 689–690 14, 482 301 Hayle, 455 Isle of Wight, 350 Art and Haymarket Theatre (Leicester), Malvern Hills, 527 Antique Fair (London), 44 590 Oxford, 262 Grosvenor Precinct (Chester), Hayward Gallery (London), 188 Peak District National Park, 636 The Head of the River (Oxford), 591, 592 The (Stourhead), 401 261 the Pennine Way, 709 Guided tours. See Walking tours Health concerns, 49 , 249 Guide Friday (Oxford), 262 Health insurance, 48, 49 Valley of the Rocks, 435 , 304–306 Windsor, 241 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 777

INDEX 777

Hiking, walking and rambling, Jubilee Gardens (Windsor), 239 67–68 ICan, 51 Jubilee Market (London), 214 Hilditch & Key (London), 212 Ickworth House (Bury St. The Junction (Cambridge), 559 Hippodrome (London), 224 Edmunds), 566–567 Hirst, Damien, 23, 175, 192 Ightham Mote, 301 History, books about, 84–85 Illuminations (Blackpool), 640 Keats House (London), 4, 200 Hobgoblin (Aylesbury), 272 IMAX Theatre (Bristol), 393 & Worth Valley Railway Hockney, David, 23, 688 Imperial Pub (Exeter), 413 (Bradford), 688 Hogarth, William, 175, 176, 193, The Industrial Museum and Kendal, 641–645 558 Horse at Work (Bradford), 688 Kendal Museum, 644 The Hogs Head (Durham), 705 Inns of Courts (London), 182 , 7, 512–513 Holbein, Hans, the Younger, Insurance, 47–48 Kensington Gardens (London), 21, 178, 180, 278, 590, 691 car rental, 70 177, 198 Holburne Museum of Art (Bath), International Beatles Week (London), 385–386 (Liverpool), 46, 621 177 The Hole in the Wall International Concert Season , 32, 279 (Scarborough), 699 (Leeds), 686 country houses, and Hole in t’ Wall (Bowness), 649 International Festival of Music gardens of, 300–304 Holiday cottages and villages, (Cheltenham), 470–471 Kentwell Hall (Long Melford), 78–79 Internet access, 56–57 571 Holidays, 42 Ironbridge, 539–541 Kenwood House (London), 200 Holyhead, 761–763 Ironbridge Gorge Museums, 541 Kenwood Lakeside Concerts Holyhead Mountain, 762 Isle of Anglesey, 758–761 (London), 45, 221 Holy Island, 761 Isle of Wight, 350–353 Keswick, 659–664 Holy Trinity Church Isles of Scilly, 446–450 Kettlewell, 692 (Shakespeare’s Tomb; Strat- Isles of Scilly Museum , 202 ford-upon-Avon), 506 (St. Mary’s), 448 Kidstone Pass, 693 Honiton, 408 Issey Miyake (London), 213 King Offa Cider Brandy Horniman Museum (London), Itineraries, suggested, 91–100 Distillery (Hereford), 531–532 205 Kings Arms (Coniston), 658 Horseback riding, 68 The King’s Arms (Oxford), 262 Canterbury, 288 Jackfield Tile Museum Kings Arms Public House (York), Dartmoor National Park, 418 (Ironbridge), 541 679 Horse Guards Building (London), Jamaica Wine House (London), King’s College (Cambridge), 182 229 553–554 Horse of the Year Show James, Henry, 294–295, 553 King’s Head (Woodstock), 269 (Wembley), 46 Jane Austen Centre (Bath), 385 Kingsley Exhibition (Clovelly), Horse racing Jewelry Quarter (Birmingham), 430 Ascot Racecourse, 247–248 521 Kingston Lacy, 358–359 National Horseracing Museum Jewel Tower (London), 172 Kipling, Rudyard, Bateman’s (Newmarket), 563–564 The Jewish Museum (Burwash), 323 Newmarket, 563 (Manchester), 616 , 301–302 Horton, 736–737 and Archeology Knole (near Tonbridge), 10 The Hospital of St. Cross Museum (Leicester), 588 Krizia (London), 213 (Winchester), 335–336 John Lewis (London), 210 Hothouse (Exeter), 412 John Milton’s Cottage (Chalfont Houses of Parliament (London), St. Giles), 246 Lace Centre (Nottingham), 7, 30, 171–172 John Ruskin Museum 599 Housesteads Fort and Museum, (Coniston), 659 Lace Market (Nottingham), 599 708 John Smith’s Grand National Lacock, 388–389 House swapping, 80 Meeting (near Liverpool), Lacock Abbey, 389 Hove, 317 42–43 Ladbroke Arms (London), 231 Hughenden Manor (High Johnson, Samuel, House of The Lake District, 34, 641–668 Wycombe), 243–244 (London), 4, 194 Lake District National Park, 650 Hugh Town (St. Mary’s), 447 Jolly Brewer (Lincoln), 605 Lakeland Safari Tours Huntington’s Antiques Ltd. Jones, Inigo, 27, 28, 106, 182, (Ambleside), 654 (Stow-on-the-Wold), 485 203, 220, 361, 374 Lamb & Flag (London), 230 Hyde Park (London), 197 Jorvik Festival (York), 42 Lamb House (Rye), 294–295 Jorvik Viking Centre (York), 676 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 778

778 INDEX

Lambretta Clothing (London), gay bars, 630–631 Earl’s Court, 109 212 nightlife, 629–631 the East End, 107 Land Gate (Rye), 294 restaurants, 624–625 embassies and high Land’s End, 450–452 shopping, 629 commissions, 114 The Lanes (Brighton), 320 sights and attractions, Fitzrovia, 105–106 Langland, 736 625–629 gay and lesbian scene, LASSCO (London), 211 traveling to, 621 226–227 , 737–739 visitor information, 621 Holborn (legal London), 106 Laugharne Castle, 738–739 Liverpool Empire, 630 pub, 230 Lavenham, 568–570 Llanberis, 748–750 sightseeing, 182, 184 Law Courts (London), 182, 184 Llandaff Cathedral (Cardiff), hospitals, 114–115 Lawn Tennis Championships 9, 720 hot lines, 115 (London), 44 Llandudno, 764–769 Internet access, 115 Leeds, 679–686 Llanfair PG, 760–761 Kensington & South Leeds-Bradford International The Lleyn Peninsula, 752–755 Kensington, 109 Airport, 670, 679 Lloyd George, David, 754–755 accommodations, 136 , 302–303 Lloyd George Memorial afternoon tea, 165 Leeds City Art Gallery, 684 Museum (Criccieth), 754 restaurants, 160–161 Leeds Grand Theatre and Opera The Lobby Bar & The Axis Bar shopping, 209 House, 686 (London), 228 Knightsbridge, 108 Leeds International Film London, 32, 101–232 accommodations, Festival, 680 accommodations, 1, 115–138 134–135 Leeds International Pianoforte prices, 118–119 afternoon tea, 165 Competition, 686 afternoon tea, 164–165 pub, 230 Leeds Town Hall, 686 arriving in, 101–103 restaurants, 158–159 Legal aid, 88 average temperatures and shopping, 208–209 Legends (Brighton), 322 rainfall, 41 Leicester Square, 105 LEGOLAND (near Windsor), 242 babysitters, 114 bar, 231 Leicester, 586–591 Belgravia, 108 restaurants, 145–147 Leicester Abbey, 588–589 accommodations, maps, 115 Leicester Cathedral (St. Martin’s 135–136 Marylebone, 104 Cathedral), 589–590 pub, 229 accommodations, 122–124 Leicester Early Music Festival, best experiences in, 11–12 restaurants, 162–163 587 Bloomsbury, 105 , 104 Leicester Guildhall, 589 accommodations, accommodations, Leicester International Music 127–130 120–122 Festival, 587 pub, 229 pub, 231 Leicestershire, 34 restaurants, 150–151 restaurants, 139–144 Leicestershire Museum and Art books about, 85–86 neighborhoods in brief, Gallery, 589 Canary Wharf, 107 104–110 , 176, 186, 192 Chelsea, 108 nightlife, 215–232 Levens Hall (Kendal), 644 accommodations, 135 bars and pubs, 227–232 Lewes, 324, 326–328 restaurants, 159–160 live music, 221–226 Liberty (London), 210 shopping, 208–209 theater, 215–218 Liberty’s (Birmingham), 523 Chinatown, 105 Notting Hill, 109 The Library (London), 213 the City, 106–107 accommodations, Limelight (London), 224 accommodations, 136–137 Lincoln, 602–607 119–120 shopping, 209, 215 Lincoln Castle, 605–606 bars and pubs, 229–230 Notting Hill Gate, 109 Lincoln Cathedral, 606 restaurants, 154–155 pub, 231 Lincoln Medieval Bishops’ Covent Garden & The Strand, restaurants, 163–164 Palace, 606 106 Paddington & Bayswater, 110 Lincolnshire, 34 accommodations, accommodations, Lindsay String Quartet 130–132 137–138 (Manchester), 620 afternoon tea, 164–165 Piccadilly Circus, 104–105 Liquor laws, 88 pubs, 230 restaurants, 145–147 The Lisbon (Liverpool), 631 restaurants, 151–152 post offices, 115 Little Orme, 764 Docklands, 107 restaurants, 1, 138–164 Liverpool, 621–631 restaurants, 155–157 St. James’s, 104 accommodations, 622–624 doctors and dentists, 114 accommodations, 124–125 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 779

INDEX 779

pub, 231 London’s Transport Museum, 189 Manchester Art Gallery, 617 restaurants, 144–145 London Symphony Orchestra, Manchester Cathedral, 617 shopping, 207–215 219 Manchester Museum, 617 department stores, , 198 Manchester Town Hall, 617–618 209–210 Longdale Craft Centre The Mandarin Bar (London), 228 shipping your purchases, (Nottingham), 599 Manet, Edouard, 176, 187, 231, 209 House and , 721 top shopping streets and 401 (Bury St. neighborhoods, Long Melford, 570–572 Edmunds), 567 207–209 Long Walk (Windsor), 241 Mapledurham House, 251 sights and attractions, Looe, 436–439 Maps, road, 70–71 1, 166–207 Lord Leycester Hospital Maritime Museum (Buckler’s churches, 196–197 (Warwick), 510–511 Hard), 349–350 for kids, 204–206 Lord Mayor’s Procession and Maritime Quarter (Swansea), literary landmarks, Show (London), 47 734 193–194, 196 Loseley House (near Guildford), Market House of Tetbury, 464 organized tours, 206–207 306 Markets. See also Flea markets on the outskirts, 199–204 Lost-luggage insurance, 48 Bakewell, 595 parks and gardens, Lower Slaughter, 481–483 Cheltenham, 473 197–199 The Lowry (Manchester), Hereford, 531 Soho, 105 616–617 Manchester, 619 accommodations, Ludlow, 533 York, 677 126–127 Ludlow Castle, 535–536 Marks & Spencer (Cardiff), 722 pub, 231 Ludlow Festival, 45 The Marlborough (Brighton), restaurants, 147–149 Ludlow Museum, 536 324 South Bank, 107–108 Lush (London), 211 Marlborough restaurants, 157–158 Lygon Arms (Broadway), 490 (Woodstock), 269 shopping, 215 Lyle Wake Walk, 695 Marlow, 252–253 suggested itineraries, 91–92, , 361–363 Marlowe (Canterbury), 288 96–97, 99 Lyn Gorge, 435 Marquess of Anglesey’s column taxis, 112–113 Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff (Llanfair PG), 760 telephone Railway, 434 Mary Arden’s House (Stratford- area codes, 114 Lynton-Lynmouth, 432–435 upon-Avon), 506 directory assistance, 115 Mary Queen of Scots, 170, 590, Trafalgar Square 592, 594, 597, 703 accommodations, MAC (Midlands Arts Centre; The Mary Rose Ship Hall and 125–126 Birmingham), 523 Exhibition (Portsmouth), 340 pub, 232 Madame Tussauds (London), Masham, 693 restaurants, 149–150 189–190 Mason Arms (Cartmel Fell), 649 sightseeing, 179–180 Maddermarket Theatre The Masons Arms (Bury St. transportation, 110–113 (Norwich), 582 Edmunds), 567 visitor information, 103–104 Magdalen College (Oxford), 264 Masquerade (Liverpool), 630 the West End , 186, 373, 564, 606 Match EC1 (London), 228 neighborhoods, 104–106 Mail, 88 Mayflower Steps (Plymouth), shopping, 207–208, Malham, 692 429 214–215 Malham Cove, 692 The Maypole (Cambridge), 559 /Victoria, 106 Malham Tarn, 692 The Maze of Love (Warminster), accommodations, Maltings Arts Theatre 401 132–134 (St. Albans), 275 The McCartney House restaurants, 152–153 The Malverns, 527–529 (Liverpool), 627 London Aquarium, 205 Manchester, 8, 608–620 Medical insurance, 48, 49 London-Brighton Veteran accommodations, 611–614 Hall (near Leicester), Car Run, 47 nightlife, 620 591 London City Airport, 102 restaurants, 614–616 Melford Hall (Long Melford), London Coliseum, 219 shopping, 619 572 The London Dungeon (London), sights and attractions, Memorial Gateway (Plymouth), 205–206 616–618 429 London Heathrow Airport, 101 transportation, 611 Menai Bridge, 759 London Information Centre, 104 traveling to, 610–611 Mendips (Liverpool), 627 London Stansted Airport, 102 visitor information, 611 Mersey Ferry (Liverpool), 626 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 780

780 INDEX

Merseyside Maritime Museum Museum of Sussex Archaeology New Place/Nash’s House (Strat- (Liverpool), 627 (Lewes), 328 ford-upon-Avon), 507 Merton College (Oxford), 264 Museum of Welsh Life (Cardiff), Newport (Isle of Wight), 350 Midlands Arts Centre (MAC; 721 Newquay, 456 Birmingham), 523 Museums, best, 8–9 Newstead Abbey (Ravenshead), Mikey (London), 212 Museum Tavern (London), 229 600 Milton, John, Cottage of The Mustard Shop Museum New Theatre (Oxford), 266 (Chalfont St. Giles), 246 (Norwich), 580 The Norfolk Broads, 581–582 Minack Theatre (Porthcurno), Norman and medieval , 445 best of, 6–7 Miners Bridge (near Betws-y- Nag’s Head (London), 230 Norman (Exeter), Coed), 752 National Army Museum 410 The Minerva (Chichester), 309 (London), 190–191 Northallerton, 695 Ministry of Sound (London), 225 National Botanic Museum Northamptonshire, 34 Minsmere (Westleton), 576 (Laugharne), 739 Northcott Theatre (Exeter), 412 Mirehouse (near Keswick), 661 National Gallery (London), 176 North of England Open Air The Model Village at the Old The National Gallery (London), 8 Museum (Beamish), 706 New Inn (Bourton-on-the- National Horseracing Museum North Parade (Bath), 384 Water), 481 (Newmarket), 563–564 Northumberland National Park, Mompesson House (Salisbury), The National Indoor Arena 709 372 (Birmingham), 522 Northumbria, 34, 669 Money matters, 38–41 National Marine Aquarium Theatre Monk’s House (Rodmell), 329 (Plymouth), 430 (Llandudno), 769 Monsal Trail, 592, 595 National Maritime Museum The Northwest, 34 Moorcroft Pottery (Burslem), (Greenwich), 203 North York Moors National 544 National Motor Museum Park, 694–702 Moore, Henry, 22–23, 175, 581 (Beaulieu), 349 North Yorkshire coast, 696–702 The Henry Moore Institute National Museum of Photogra- Norwich, 576–583 (Leeds), 684 phy, Film & Television Norwich Arts Centre, 583 The moors (Bradford), 688 Norwich Cathedral, 580–581 Dartmoor National Park, National Museum of Wales Norwich Playhouse, 582 417–418 (Cardiff), 9, 721 Norwich Puppet Theatre, 583 North York Moors National National Park Centre (Colvend), No Sign Wine Bar (Swansea), Park, 694, 695–696 692 736 Moot Hall Museum (Aldeburgh), National Portrait Gallery Nottingham, 597–600 576 (London), 180 Nottingham Castle Museum and Moretonhampstead, 416 Art Gallery, 599–600 Moreton-in-Marsh, 463, 485–487 (York), 8, 676 Nottinghamshire, 34, 597–601 Mousehole, 450–452 National Space Centre Notting Hill Art Club (London), Moyse’s Hall Museum (Bury St. (Leicester), 12, 589 225 Edmunds), 567 The National Stud (Newmarket), Notting Hill Carnival The (near Swansea), 564 (London), 46 735 Nowton Park, 566 Munnings, Sir , Art accommodations, 78 Nutshell (Bury St. Edmunds), 567 Museum (Dedham), 573 passes, 83–84 Museum of Canterbury, 286 Natural History Museum Museum of Costume (Bath), 386 (London), 30, 191 Farms Rare Breeds Park Museum of Eton Life, 241 Natural Shoe Store (London), (Aylesbury), 271 Museum of Lakeland Life 214 The Obelisk (Stourhead), 402 (Kendal), 644 The Nether Gallery (near O’Brian’s Exchange Bar Museum of Lincolnshire Life Tonbridge), 304 (Swansea), 736 (Lincoln), 606–607 New Caledonian Market Off season, 41–42 Museum of Liverpool Life, 628 (London), 215 Old (London), 184 Museum of London, 190 New College (Oxford), 264–265 The Old Bodleian Library Museum of Natural History New Forest, 13, 330, 345–350 (Oxford), 265 (Scarborough), 698 New Inn (Ironbridge), 541 Olde Custom House (Chester), Museum of St. Albans, 274 Newlyn, 445 637 The Museum of Science and Newmarket, 562–564 Old Fire Station (Oxford), 268 Industry (Manchester), 618 Old George Mall Shopping Centre (Salisbury), 374 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 781

INDEX 781

The Old House (Hereford), Parliament, Houses of (London), Polesden Lacey (near Great 532–533 7, 30, 171–172 Bookham), 306 Old Mill (Lower Slaughter), 481 Party in the Park (Leeds), 680 Police, 89 Old Royal Observatory Passports, 37, 88–89 The Police Bygones Museum (Greenwich), 203 Patchings Farm Art Centre (Tetbury), 464 Old Sarum (near Salisbury), 374 (Nottingham), 599 Polperro, 436 Oldway Mansion (Torquay), 421 Paviland Caves, 737 Pontardawe International Music Oliver Cromwell’s House (Ely), Pavilion Gardens (Buxton), Festival, 46 562 594–595 Poole’s Cavern (Buxton), 595 100 Club (London), 222 Peak District National Park, Pop Boutique (London), 213 Open-Air Theatre (London), 14, 584, 591–592 Porcelain and china, 81 45, 217 Pelynt, 439 Barlaston, 545 Opera in the Park (Leeds), 680 Pembroke, 741–743 Chipping Campden, 494 Orange Tree (Hereford), 531 Pembroke Castle, 742–743 Ironbridge, 541 Oriental Museum (Durham), 704 Pembrokeshire, 739–745 Salisbury, 374 Original London Sightseeing , 737 Stoke-on-Trent, 544 Tour, 206 Penhaligon’s (London), 212 Worcester, 526 The Original London Walks, 206 Castle, 737 Castle, 341 Orrest Head, 645 Pennine Way, 705, 709 Port Eynon, 737 (Isle of Wight), Penny Lane (Liverpool), 626 Porth Clais, 745 7–8, 353 Penrith, 666–668 Porthmadog, 753–754 Owlpen Manor, 469 Penrith Castle, 668 The Porthouse (Winchester), 337 Oxford, 94, 253–268 Penrith Museum, 668 Port Isaac, 456–457 accommodations, 254–258 Penshurst Place (near en route to, 455–456 nightlife, 266–268 Tonbridge), 10, 303–304 Portobello Market (London), pubs, 261–262 Penzance, 96, 442–445 215 restaurants, 259–261 The People’s History Museum Portsmouth, 337–341 shopping, 265–266 (Manchester), 618 Potter, Beatrix, 272 sights and attractions, Percival David Foundation of Beatrix Potter Gallery 262–265 Chinese Art (London), 191 (Hawkshead), 659 transportation, 254 Perpendicular King’s College Melford Hall (Long Melford), traveling to, 254 Chapel (Cambridge), 553 572 visitor information, 254 Peterhouse College The World of Beatrix Potter Oxford Playhouse Theatre, 266 (Cambridge), 554 (Bowness), 651 The Oxford Story, 262 Peveril of the Peak The Museum and Art Oxford University, 263–265 (Manchester), 620 Gallery (Stoke-on-Trent), 544 , 736 The Pheasant (Salisbury), 375 The Potters Wheel (Swansea), Philharmonic Hall (Liverpool), 736 630 Pottery and ceramics Package tours, 63–64 The Phoenix Artist Club Canterbury, 288 Padarn Country Park, 748 (London), 228–229 Ludlow, 535 Padstow, 456 Phoenix Arts Centre (Leicester), Penrith, 667 Painswick, 13, 467–470 590 Rye, 294 Painswick Garden, Phoenix Dance Troupe (Leeds), Stoke-on-Trent, 543–545 469–470 686 Powderham Castle, 411–412 (Houses Pickerel (Cambridge), 559 Prebendal Houses (Aylesbury), of Parliament), 30 Pickering, 695 271 Pandora (London), 213 Pickwick Gallery (Stratford- Pre-Raphaelites, 22, 469, 522, The Pantheon (Stourhead), 401 upon-Avon), 508 617, 628 Pantiles (Royal Tunbridge Wells), The Pied Bull (Chester), 637 Prideaux Place (Padstow), 456 298 Pittville Pump Room The Proms (London), 45 Parc le Breos (Giant’s Grave), (Cheltenham), 473 Prospect of Whitby (London), 737 Pizza Express (London), 222 230 Parish Church of St. Martin Plas Newydd, Llanfair PG, 761 Prowler Soho (London), 226 (Laugharne), 738 Playhouse (Cheltenham), 474 Prysten House (Plymouth), 430 Parish Church of St. Mary the Plymouth, 95–96, 427–430 Pubs Virgin (Tetbury), 464 Plymouth Gin Distillery, 430 best, 18–19 The Park Vaults (Cardiff), 724 Poets’ Corner (London), 170 London, 12 Parliament, Opening of, 47 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 782

782 INDEX

Pulteney Bridge (Bath), 384 (near Helmsley), The Royal Exchange Pump and Tap (Leicester), 590 695 (Manchester), 620 The Pump Room (Bath), River & Rowing Museum Royal Festival Hall (London), 386–387 (Henley-on-Thames), 250–251 220 Punch Bowl (Crosthwaithe), 649 Road maps, 70–71 Royal Meeting (Royal Week; Punting (Cardiff), 721 Ascot), 247–248 on the Cam, 3, 557 Robin Hood, 597, 598, 600–601 Royal National Theatre on the River Avon, 386 Robin Hood Festival (London), 217–218 on the River Cherwell, 263 (Nottingham), 598 Royal Naval College Pwil-du, 736 Robin Hood’s Bay, 699–700 (Greenwich), 204 Rodmell, 329 Royal Naval Museum Roman Army Museum (Portsmouth), 340 Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House (near Greenhead), 708–709 Royal Navy Submarine Museum (Windsor), 239 (Bath), 5, 386–387 (Gosport), 340 Queens’ College (Cambridge), Roman Catholic Metropolitan Royal Oak Pub (Winchester), 334 554, 556 Cathedral of Christ the King Royal Opera (London), 220 Queens Court (Leeds), 685 (Liverpool), 628 The Royal Opera House The Queen’s Gallery (London), Roman Painted House (Dover), (London), 220 191–192 5, 291 The at Brighton, Queen’s House (Greenwich), 203 Roman Palace (near Chichester), 319 Queen Square (Bath), 384 309 The Royal Philharmonic ’s Apartments Romans (ruins and Orchestra (Liverpool), 630 (Brighton), 319 antiquities), 5–6 Royal Regatta (Henley-on- Quit Rents Ceremony (London), Bath, 386–387 Thames), 248, 250 46–47 Brecon, 727 Royal Shakespeare Company Buxton, 592 (Stratford-upon-Avon), 503 near Caernarfon, 758 Royal Shakespeare Theatre Railways Canterbury, 285–286 (Stratford-upon-Avon), 495 Bluebell Railway, 329 Chester, 631, 635 The Royal Shakespeare Theatre Bourton Model Railway Exhibi- Chichester, 309 Summer House (Stratford- tion and Toy Shop (Bourton- Cirencester, 467 upon-Avon), 507 on-the-Water), 480 Dover, 291 Royal souvenirs, 81 Keighley & Worth Valley Hadrian’s Wall, 665, 669, 670, Royal Sudeley Castle and Railway (Bradford), 688 706, 708–709 Gardens (Winchcombe), 474 Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Hexham area, 708–709 Royal Tunbridge Wells, 298–299 Railway, 434 Manchester, 608 Royal Windsor Horse Show National Railway Museum St. Albans, 274 (Windsor), 43 (York), 8, 676 Roman Theatre (St. Albans), 274 Royal Worcester Porcelain Snowdon Mountain Railway, Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club Factory (Worcester), 526 748 (London), 222–223 , 242 Raleigh, Sir Walter, 180, 335, Rosetta Stone (London), 173 Ruskin, John, 656 406 Rossiter’s (Bath), 388 Brantwood (Coniston), 659 Sherborne Castle, 365–366 , 736 Museum (Coniston), 659 Sherborne Old Castle, 366 Rotunda Museum Rydal, 651–654 Red (London), 231 (Scarborough), 699 Rydal Mount (near Ambleside), The Red Lion (Chester), 637 The Rows (Chester), 636 654 Regent’s Park (London), 198 Royal Air Force Chapel (Isle of Wight), 350 Regimental Museum of the (London), 170 Rye, 6, 291–295 Royal Welch Fusiliers Royal Albert Hall (London), Rye Castle Museum, 295 (Caernarfon), 758 219–220 Regions in brief, 32–35 Museum Rembrandt, 174, 176, 193, 240, (Leeds), 684 Saatchi Gallery (London), 192 278, 597, 628 Royal Ascot Week, 44 Sadler’s Wells Theatre (London), Restaurants, best, 17–18 Royal Ballet (London), 220 220 Reynolds, Joshua, 21, 175, 176, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Safety, 49–50, 89 180, 200, 204, 263, 278, 366, 10–11, 99, 202 Sainsbury African Galleries 374, 586, 590, 691 Royal Court Theatre (London), (London), 173 Rhossilli, 737 217 Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts Royal Crescent (Bath), 385 (Norwich), 581 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 783

INDEX 783

St. Agnes, 449–450 St. Mary’s Church (Warwick), 511 Shakespeare, William St. Agnes Beacon, 455–456 St. Mary’s Parish Church London, Shakespeare’s Globe St. Albans, 272–276 (Abergavenny), 727 Theatre & Exhibition, St. Augustine’s Abbey St. Mary’s Parish Church 196, 218 (Canterbury), 286 (Bibury), 476 Stratford-upon-Avon, 43, 495 St. Bride’s Church (London), 196 St. Mary’s Parish Church (Rye), Birthplace, 507 St. Cybi’s Church (Holyhead), 295 Holy Trinity Church 762–763 St. Mary the Virgin, Parish (Shakespeare’s Tomb), St. Cybi’s Well (Llangybi), 755 Church of (Tetbury), 464 506 St. Cyriac Church (Lacock), 388 St. Mawes, 440–442 Mary Arden’s House and St. Davids, 743–745 St. Non’s Chapel, 745 the Shakespeare St. Davids Cathedral, 744–745 St. Paul’s Cathedral (London), Countryside Museum, St. David’s Day Parade 177–178 506–507 (Cardiff), 42 St. Petroc’s Church (Padstow), New Place/Nash’s House, St. David’s Hall (Cardiff), 456 507 723–724 St. Petrox (Dartmouth), 426 The Shakespeare Bookshop St. Eadurgha’s Church St. Tudno, Church of (Stratford-upon-Avon), 508 (Broadway), 490 (Llandudno), 768 Shakespeare Centre (Stratford- St. Edmundsbury Cathedral, 567 St. Tysilio, Church of (Church upon-Avon), 507 St. Etheldreda’s (London), Island), 759 Shakespeare Under the Stars 196–197 St. Wulstan’s Church (near Great (London), 45 St. Fagans Castle (Cardiff), 721 Malvern), 527 (Isle of Wight), 350 St. George’s (Bristol), 395 Sales periods, 80 Shanklin Cline (Isle of Wight), St. George’s Chapel (Windsor), Salisbury, 95, 367–375 350 239 Salisbury (London), 231 Shaw, George Bernard, 272 St. George’s Spring Festival The Salisbury Arts Center, 375 Shaw’s Corner (St. Albans), 276 (Salisbury), 368 Salisbury Cathedral, 9, 373–374 Shepherd’s Bush Empire St. Ives, 453–456 Salisbury Festival, 368 (London), 221 St. James’s Park (London), 198 Salisbury Garden and Flower Shepherd’s Tavern (London), 231 St. John’s College (Cambridge), Show, 368 Sherborne, 364–366 556 The Salisbury Playhouse, 375 Sherborne Abbey, 365 St. John’s House Museum Salt (Cardiff), 724 Sherborne Castle, 365–366 (Warwick), 511 (Bradford), 688 Sherborne Old Castle, 366 St. John the Baptist, Church of Samuel Johnson’s House Sherborne Wharf Heritage Nar- (Cirencester), 467 (London), 4, 194, 196 rowboats (Birmingham), 521 St. Just in Roseland, 455 Sandbanks Beach, 358 Sherlock Holmes (London), 232 St. Lawrence, Church of (West (Isle of Wight), 350 (Cardiff), 724 Wycombe), 244–245 Scafell Pike, 645, 662 Sherwood Forest, 4, 600–601 St. Martin, Parish Church of Scala (London), 225 Shipping your luggage, 60 (Laugharne), 738 Scarborough, 696–699 Shires Shopping Centre St. Martin-in-the-Fields , 698 (Leicester), 588 (London), 196 Schroders London Boat Shopping, tips on, 80–83 St. Martin-in-the-Fields Market Show, 42 Shoulder of Mutton (Bradford), (London), 214 Science Museum (London), 689 St. Martin’s Cathedral (Leicester 192–193 Shrewsbury, 536–539 Cathedral), 589–590 Sea Life Centre (Scarborough), Shrewsbury Abbey, 538 St. Martins Square (Leicester), 699 Shrewsbury Castle, 538 588 Seasons, 41–42 Sightseeing passes, 83–84 St. Mary Redcliffe Church Seatoller, 662 Single travelers, 53–54 (Bristol), 394 Second Air Division Memorial The Sir Alfred Munnings Art St. Mary’s (Conwy), 763 Library (Norwich), 581 Museum (Dedham), 573 St. Mary’s (island), 447–448 Secret Hills (Ludlow), 536 Sir Edward Elgar’s Birthplace St. Mary’s (Tenby), 740 Secret War Time Tunnels Museum (Worcester), 526 St. Mary’s Church (Aylesbury), (Dover), 291 Sir Francis Drake’s House 270 Segontium, 758 (Yelverton), 415 St. Mary’s Church (Bury St. Semi-State Chambers (Windsor), Sir John Soane’s Museum Edmunds), 567 240 (London), 193 St. Mary’s Church (Painswick), Senior travel, 51–52 Sissinghurst Castle Garden, 470 The Serpentine (London), 11 11, 304 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 784

784 INDEX

606 Club (London), 223 Stratford-upon-Avon, 4, 33, 98, Thames Path, 249 Sizergh Castle (near Kendal), 495–508 The Thames Valley, 644 accommodations, 496–501 1, 32, 233–278 Skandia Cowes Week, 46 pubs, 503 Theater, 3 Slade, 736 restaurants, 501–503 Bath, 387 The Slopes (Buxton), 593 shopping, 508 Birmingham, 523 Smallhythe Place (Rye), 295 sights and attractions, Bradford, 688 Small Talk (Bourton-on-the- 504–507 Bristol, 394 Water), 480 traveling to, 495–496 Bury St. Edmunds, 567 National Park, visitor information, 496 Cardiff, 724 746 Strawberry Field (Liverpool), Cheltenham, 473, 474 Snowdon Mountain Railway, 626 Leeds, 686 748 Student Entertainment Office Leicester, 590 Snowshill Manor (Broadway), (Liverpool), 630 Llandudno, 769 490–491 Student travel, 53 London, 12, 215–218 Soane, John, 29 Studley Royal, 6–7 Norwich, 582–583 Solomon’s Temple (Buxton), 595 Sudbury, 567–568 Porthcurno, 445 Somerset, 2, 33, 367 Suit Length & Fabric Centre St. Albans, 275 Somerset and North Devon (Bradford), 688 Salisbury, 375 Coastal Path, 404 Sulgrave Manor, 584–586 Scarborough, 699 Somerset Rural Life Museum Surrey, 32, 279 Stratford-upon-Avon, 503 (Glastonbury Abbey), 400 Sussex, 32, 279–280 Swansea, 735, 736 Sound (London), 221–222 Sutton Hoo (near Woodbridge), Theatre in the Parks (Norwich), South (Manchester), 620 576 583 Southampton, 342–345 Swallow Falls, 752 Theatre Royal Southampton Maritime Swansea, 731–739 Bath, 387 Museum, 345 Swan Theatre (Stratford-upon- Brighton, 321 , 14 Avon), 503–504 Bristol, 394 South Galleries (Brighton), 319 Swinbrook, 478 Bury St. Edmunds, 567 Southopia (London), 227 Swinton Park (Masham), 693 Drury Lane (London), 218 South Parade (Bath), 384 Norwich, 582 Southsea Castle, 341 Windsor, 243 South Stack, 762 Tap and Spiel (The Mill; Thinktank at Millennium Point South Wales, 710 Cambridge), 559 (Birmingham), 521 The (Scarborough), 699 Tate Britain (London), 8, 11, 175 Thirsk, 695 Spaniards’ Point, 451 Tate Gallery St. Ives, 455 Thomas, Dylan, 731 Speaker’s Corner (London), 197 Tate Liverpool, 628 Boathouse (Laugharne), 738 Spode (Stoke-on-Trent), 544–545 Tate Modern (London), Theatre Spode Museum (Stoke-on- 12, 175–176 (Swansea), 735 Trent), 544 Taxes, 89 Parish Church of St. Martin Squerryes Court (near (Cardiff), 719 (Laugharne), 738 Westerham), 302 Teesdale, 705 Three Shires (Little Langdale), SS Great Britain (Bristol), 394 Teesdale Way, 705 654 Stansted Airport (London), 102 Telegraph Tower (St. Mary’s), Tickle Manor Tea Rooms Star & Garter (Manchester), 620 447 (Lavenham), 570 Star Inn (Woodstock), 269 Telephone, 89–90 Timbers (Lavenham), 570 State Apartments (Brighton), House (Leeds), Time zone, 90 319 680, 685 Tintagel, 5 The Stephen Joseph Theatre Temple of Apollo (Stourhead), Tintagel Castle, 457–458 (Scarborough), 699 401–402 Tintern Abbey, 727 Stephenson Place (Birmingham), The Temple of Flora (Stour- Tipping, 90 520 head), 401 Torquay, 418–421 Stoke-on-Trent, 541–545 Tenby, 739–741 Torre Abbey (Torquay), 421 Stonehenge, 5, 95, 375–376 Tenby Castle, 740 Totnes, 421–424 Stourhead, 100, 401–402 Tenby Museum and Art Gallery, Totnes Castle, 424 Stow-on-the-Wold, 463, 483–485 740 Totnes Guildhall, 424 Stranger’s Galleries (London), , 182 Tourist information, 35–36 172 Tetbury, 460–464 Tours Stratfield Saye House (near Thames Barrier, Raising escorted, 64–65 Reading), 251 of the, 46 package, 63–64 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 785

INDEX 785

Tower (Blackpool), 640 Unknown Warrior, tomb of the Eton College, 241 (London), 180–181 (London), 171 Exmoor National Park, 404 (London), 167 Upper Manor House (Castle Greenwich, 203 , 1, 166–167, Combe), 389 London, 206 170 Upper Slaughter, 481–482 British Library, 186 Town crier, Chester, 635 Art Gallery (Lincoln), 607 National Gallery, 176 Town Hall Antiques (Woburn), Tower of London, 166 278 Oxford, 254, 262 Trafalgar Square (London) Valley Gardens (Windsor), 241 St. Albans, 274 accommodations, 125–126 Valley of the Rocks, 435 Windsor, 242 pub, 232 Van Dyck, Antony, 21, 174, 192, York, 676 restaurants, 149–150 240, 278, 312, 359, 366, 374, Walks and hikes. See Hikes and sightseeing, 179–180 474, 558, 586 nature walks; Walking tours Train travel, 72–73 VAT (value-added tax), 83, 89 Wallace Collection (London), from continental Europe, 62 refunds, 82 193 Traitors’ Gate (London), 167 (Isle of Wight), 350 Walltown Crags, 709 Transatlantic Telephone Room Museum at St. Warden’s Way, 482 (London), 181 Michael’s (St. Albans), 274 Wareham, 358 Transport Museum (London), Vibe Bar (London), 225–226 The Warehouse (Leeds), 685 189 Victoria (Leeds), 686 The Warehouse/Boxes Disco & Trap (London), 225 Victoria, Queen, 173, 243, 278, Boogies (Exeter), 412 Travelcards (London), 111 319 Warwick, 508–512 Traveler’s checks, 38–41 Osborne House (Isle of Wight), Warwick Castle, 6, 98, 511–512 Traveling to England, 58–63 7, 353 Washington, George, 584 by bus, 62–63 The Royal Pavilion at Brighton, Waterloo Bridge (London), 12 by car from continental 319 Weald & the Downland Open Europe, 61 Victoria and Albert Museum Air Museum (Singleton), 309 by ferry/hovercraft from (London), 178–179 Weardale, 705 continental Europe, 62 Victoria Art Gallery (Bath), 387 Weardale Way, 705 by plane, 58–61 Victory, HMS (Portsmouth), Weather, 41 by train, 62 339–340 Websites Travel insurance, 47–48 (near Housesteads), best, 19 Treasurer’s House (York), 676 709 travel-planning and booking, Trengwainton Garden (near Vinopolis (London), 184 54–56 Penzance), 443 Visit Britain, 35 visitor information, 35–36 Tresco, 448–449 Visit London, 103–104 Wedgwood Museum Trinity College (Cambridge), Visitor information, 35–36 (Barlaston), 545 556–557 Vivienne Westwood (London), Wedgwood Visitor Centre Trip-cancellation insurance, 212 (Barlaston), 545 47–48 Vodafone Derby Stakes, 44 Well House Tavern (Exeter), 413 (London), 44 Volts (Exeter), 412 Wellington Country Park (near Tudor Merchant’s House Reading), 251, 252 (Tenby), 740 Wells, 95, 395–398 Turks Head (Exeter), 412–413 Waddesdon Manor Wells Cathedral, 397–398 Turner, J. M. W., 11, 22, 108, 175, (Aylesbury), 271 Welsh Folk Museum (Cardiff), 176, 179, 200, 230, 474, 521, Walcot Reclamation (Bath), 721 617, 618, 692 387–388 Welsh State Museum Ty Mawr (), 752 Wales, 34–35 (Llanberis), 749 Weobley Castle (Llanrhidian), (Cardiff), 2, 723 737 Ullswater, 664–666 Walker Art Gallery (Liverpool), The Wernher Collection at The Undercliff (Bournemouth), 8, 628 Ranger’s House (Greenwich), 354 Walking tours (guided tours), 67 204 Underground Passages (Exeter), between, Upper and Lower (London), 412 Slaughter, 482 9, 170–171 The University of Manchester’s Bath, 385, 388 Westminster Cathedral Department of Music, 620 Bristol, 393 (London), 197 University study programs, Cambridge, 553 Westminster-Greenwich Thames 68–69 Canterbury, 286, 288 Passenger Boat Service (London), 207 26_595407 bindex.qxd 8/29/05 8:56 PM Page 786

786 INDEX

Westminster Passenger Windermere, Lake, 645–651 The World of James Herriot Association (Upriver) Ltd. Windermere Steamboat Centre, (Thirsk), 695–696 (London), 207 651 Worms Head, 737 West Quay Retail Park Windsor, 233–246 Wren, Christopher, 28, 92, 107, (Southampton), 344–345 accommodations, 234–237 170, 177, 201, 203, 204, 266, The West Stow Anglo-Saxon nightlife, 243 301, 373, 554, 556, 606 Village, 566 organized tours, 242 Sir ’s House West Stow Country Park, 566 restaurants, 237–238 (Windsor), 236 West Wycombe, 244–245 shopping, 242–243 Wroxham, 581–582 West Wycombe Park, 244 side trips from, 243–246 Playhouse sights and attractions in and (Leeds), 686 around, 239–242 Yarmouth (Isle of Wight), 350 Wheelchair accessibility, 50 traveling to, 234 Ye Cracke (Liverpool), 630 Whiddons (Chagford), 415 visitor information, 234 The Yelverton Paperweight Whitby, 700 Windsor Arts Center, 243 Centre, 416 Whitby Abbey, 701 , 10, 97, Ye Olde King’s Head (Chester), Whitby Museum, 701–702 233–234, 239–240 637 Whitchurch Silk Mill, 345 Windsor Farm Shop, 240 Ye Olde Starre Inne (York), 679 Whitcliffe Common (Ludlow), , 241 Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem 535 Winter Gardens (Bournemouth), (Nottingham), 600 White cliffs of Dover, 290 358 Ye Olde Watling (London), (London), 181 Wisley Garden, 11, 306 229–230 Whitelocks (Leeds), 685 , 9, 276–278 Y Gaer (Brecon), 727 White Peak, 591 , 278 Yohji Yamamoto (London), 213 Whitesands, 743 (near York, 670–679 The White Swan (Stratford- Nottingham), 600 accommodations, 670–673 upon-Avon), 503 Woodbridge, 574–576 pub crawl, 678–679 White Tower (London), 24, Wood End Museum restaurants, 673–675 166–167 (Scarborough), 698 shopping, 677–678 Whittard of Chelsea (Bath), 388 Woodstock, 268–269 sights and attractions, Whitworth Art Gallery Wookey Hole Caves & Paper 676–677 (Manchester), 618 Mill (near Wells), 398 York Castle Museum (York), Wickham, 338 Woolcomber House (Stow-on- 676–677 Widecombe-in-the-Moor, 416 the-Wold), 485 York Minster, 9, 677 Wigmore Hall (London), 220 Woolf, , 180, 194, 301 Yorkshire, 34, 669 Wildwalk At-Bristol, 393 Monk’s House (Rodmell), castles, abbeys, and manor , 328–329 houses, 690–691 6, 166, 239, 297, 303, 334, Worcester, 523–527 Yorkshire Dales National Park, 345, 410, 511 Worcester Cathedral, 526–527 692–694 Wilton Diptych, 20, 176 Wordsworth, William Yorkshire Dance Centre (Leeds), (near Salisbury), Dove Cottage/The Wordsworth 686 374 Museum (near Grasmere), Youth hostels, 80 Wiltshire, 2, 32–33, 367 656 Wimbledon, Lawn Tennis Cham- Grasmere, 4–5, 654 pionships (London), 44–45 Rydal Mount (near Ambleside), Zanzibar Club (Liverpool), 630 Winchester, 331–337 654 Zodiac (Oxford), 268 Winchester Cathedral, 9, 336 World Museum Liverpool, 629 Zoo Bar (London), 226 , 336 The World of Beatrix Potter (Bowness), 651