GUIDE TO WASHINGTON D.C.

THE LADY-DATEJUST

The classically feminine Rolex, sized and styled to perfectly match its wearer since 1957. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

PLAY UPDATED HOLIDAY TRADITIONS EAT SWEET CRAVINGS DO OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST 28 WHAT’S TRENDING THIS SEASON

PROMOTION DECEMBER 2018 George Washington’s Mount Vernon paints a rolex oyster perpetual and datejust are ® trademarks. wheretraveler.com peaceful holiday picture when covered with snow. 02 EDITOR NOTE December Where Washington, D.C. 32 THE FI

04 TOP 5 What’s trending now, from city streets and stages all aglow to comfort foods for the soul

06 CALENDAR This month’s must-sees, including a circus on ice, a pop-up craft shop at the Smithsonian and N

08 GETTIN’ REEL Washington, D.C., goes H and festivals.

10 Shop 28 Art

12 Food 30 Maps WINTER GUIDE

20 Sights 26 Scene

NOVEMBER 27 - DECEMBER 30 COVER PROMOTION George Washington’s Mount eNationalDC.com Vernon dazzles during the holiday season with candlelight tours,

COT-TO-COTITOC DD ECOR

CityCenterDC

YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® December 2018

WASHINGTON, D.C. There’s no question that Washington, D.C., is rich IN THE WORLD Where is an international network of with history and tradition, especially during the magazines fi rst published in 1936 EDITORIAL & DESIGN holidays. But along with tree trimming parties and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 GROUP EDITOR Anne Kim-Dannibale and caroling, denizens are also engaging in new places around the world. Look ART DIRECTOR Dusty Martin for us when you visit any of the CONTRIBUTING WRITER Amy Alipio following cities, or plan ahead for customs, like donning a bathing suit and running CIRCULATION your next trip by visiting us online CIRCULATION MANAGER Irena Laster through a maze of ice! Learn all about unconven- at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, ADVERTISING tional ways to observe the season on page 8. Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, JAMES G. ELLIOTT CO., INC. Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, With the holidays in full Of course, we’ve also got plenty of recom- EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Pat O’Donnell Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Oc- ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jeryl Parade toberine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, all manner of spirit- mendations for the tried and true. Just turn to the 860.830.1792, [email protected] Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Min- ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Christopher Dunham lifting things to do. One Calendar on page 6. neapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, 203.994.1883, [email protected] of my favorites is to hit New York, Oahu, Orange County Whether your celebrations are decades-old or (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS the outdoor bazaars, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, like the Downtown just beginning, we wish you the best of the season. San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, MVP | EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler Holiday Market in D.C. Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Singapore AUSTRALIA CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Dennis Kelly at 8th and F sts. NW. Brisbane, Gold Coast, Melbourne, VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS Angela E. Allen Richard H. Brashear II wheretraveler.com/ Sydney CANADA Calgary, HEAD OF DIGITAL DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson seizethestay. Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/ Parry Sound, MVP | CREATIVE Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Join in Vienna’s connect with us CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg Anne Kim-Dannibale EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Margaret Martin New Year’s Tradition EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istan- Group Editor DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Arjonilla bul, London, Madrid, Milan, Mos- CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt @wheredc cow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg MVP | MANUFACTURING & PUBLICATION SERVICES European Singers, DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald Horton Dancers and Full Orchestra PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR Karen Fralick PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER Cher Wheeler EXPERIENCE THE MAGIC DIGITAL IMAGING & RETOUCH Erik Lewis of the season at George E-mails for all MVP employees above except contributors: Washington DEC 30 [email protected] COVER Boston JAN 4 Washington’s Mount Vernon, SPOTLIGHT Chicago DEC 30 where Christmas past meets Clearwater DEC 31 Christmas present. During the Coral Springs DEC 31 Costa Mesa DEC 29 day, meet Aladdin the Camel Fort Myers DEC 29 and enjoy chocolate-making Hartford JAN 5 demonstrations, festive Los Angeles DEC 30 Miami DEC 30 music and more. On weekend New Brunswick DEC 31 evenings, celebrate an New York JAN 1 Philadelphia DEC 29 18th-century Christmas with San Diego JAN 1 candlelight tours, or watch Sarasota JAN 2 MVP | WASHINGTON, D.C. West Palm Beach JAN 1 1455 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Suite 457, Washington, D.C. 20004 Christmas Illuminations. 202.349.9858 In Canada: Calgary, Edmonton, MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS Hamilton, Montréal, Ottawa, Mount Vernon is open 365 CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III Québec, Toronto & Vancouver days a year, including Dec. 25. PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV Tickets, videos and more at Learn more at mountvernon. Where® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Decembera, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. salutetovienna.com org/Christmas. Where magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions.

©BUDDY SECOR ©BUDDY All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.

2 WHERE I DECEMBER 2018 3 DECEMBER 2018

WASHINGTON D.C.

1 All Aglow The spirit of the season lights up the capital with holiday traditions old and new, like ZooLights at the National Zoo (pictured).

2 Warming Trend Old Man Winter’s bite has Washingtonians heading inside top-shelf cocktail bars pouring soul-warming concoctions.

3 Food for Comfort Diet fads may have been trending in summer, but this month, foodies are sitting down to satisfying comfort meals.

4 Light It Up The District’s always- thrilling theater scene heats up with showstoppers and thought-provokers all around town.

5 Shop Small In this season of giving, supporting the mom-and-pop stores from Georgetown to downtown

feels especially good. COT-TO-COTITOC

IN DECEMBER

Ballston Quarter All month Arlington, ’s new- est mixed-use complex combines interactive experi- ences (star in a movie!) with top restaurants and bars. www.ballstonquarter.com

Metrocooking DC Dec. 1-2 Emeril Lagasse joins celeb chefs like Jacques Pepin and Carla Hall for demos, tast- ings and more. From $21.50. www.metrocookingdc.com

Bob Woodward Dec. 7 Radio host Kojo Nnamdi chats with the legendary journalist. $55-$75. www. thelincolndc.com

Kwanzaa Celebration Dec. 15-16 Dancers twirl through the seven principles of the cul- tural holiday. $15-$30. www. danceplace.org

Cat Power Dec. 16 The songstress serenades with selections from “Wan- six years. $40. www.930.com December at a Glance Dec. 5-9 Dec. 1-2 The Hip Hop Nutcracker Dec. 18-19 “Crystal” Native Art Market MC Kurtis Blow presides over a twist on the Tchai- Cirque du Soleil’s fi rst Artisans from the kovsky classic. $30-$60. production on ice follows Americas offer their www.strathmore.org the title character through handiwork in pottery, jewelry and intricately a surreal frozen world fi lled First Night with pro skaters performing beaded objects. Free Dec. 31 the company’s signature jaw- entry. American Indian Old Town in Alexandria, Vir- dropping acrobatics. Prices/ Museum, 4th St. and ginia, rings in the New Year times vary. Capital One Arena, Independence Ave. with musical shows capped SW, 202.633.1000, 601 F St. NW, 202.628.3200, D capitalonearena.viewlift.com americanindian.si.edu nightalexandria.org

For a full calendar of events, go to wheretraveler.com/washington-dc/local-events (FROM TOP) ©MATT BEARD; ©O. PALSSON/FLICKR, CREATIVE COMMONS CREATIVE PALSSON/FLICKR, ©O. BEARD; ©MATT TOP) (FROM

7th Street NW, Crystal City, Union Station, Reagan National www.legalseafoods.com 6 WHERE I DECEMBER 2018 Georgetown GLOW 2017

WE CAN’T COUNT ON A WHITE CHRISTMAS here in the nation’s capital. (The National Weather Service estimates that snow falls on Dec. 25 in D.C. about once every 14-15 years.) But we can count on our uniquely local holiday traditions.

SIGNS OF THE TIMES Nearby, “A Christmas Carol” has played MERRYMAKING Washingtonians spark the holiday season out its tale of redemption at historic Ford’s Time-tested or unconven- with the National Tree Lighting ceremony, a Theatre for more than 35 years. But since tional, these seasonal sights tradition that dates to 1923, when President 2004, the cast has reflected the faces of delight—all for free. Calvin Coolidge lit a 48-foot fir tree on the D.C. “We prioritize casting locally and  CITYCENTERDC Ellipse south of the White House. Also on feel that it’s important for our cast to be DECORATIONS All month, the Ellipse, the equally spectacular lighting representative of who we are as a nation the luxury retail center spar- of the National Menorah follows this year on and a community,” says the theater’s kles with Instagrammable Dec. 2, an annual event that President Jimmy director, Paul R. Tetreault. For the past light displays, family-friendly Carter initiated in 1979. three years, acclaimed African-American events and a stunning tree. Locals also know to look for the actor Craig Wallace has played Ebenezer 10th & H sts. NW, 202.289.9000, theme of this year’s holiday decorations Scrooge. For the past 10 years, the .com at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue. First Lady company has also solicited donations at  HOLIDAY BOAT Jacqueline Kennedy started the tradition curtain call for a Washington charity. This PARADE On Dec. 1, The for the official White House Christmas year, donations support the Homeless Wharf turns into a hub of tree in 1961—she went with the can’t-lose Children’s Playtime Project. Christmas spirit as illumi- “Nutcracker Suite” theme. Since then, the Other familiar events are updating to nated boats glide along the chosen annual motif has taken over other appeal to millennials. At National Harbor this Potomac. 735 Water St. SW, public rooms at the presidential residence. year, Gaylord National Resort & Convention wharfdc.com If you don’t get an invitation to one of Center’s annual ICE! attraction unveils the  LIBRARY OF CONGRESS the White House’s holiday dinners, you one-off Arctic Dash, where the daring run TREE During the holidays, can still view the festive décor—and the through the carved-ice extravaganza in the largest library in the chocolate White House replica—during bathing suits before warming up with a world hosts one of the one of the public tours that take place signature cocktail at the lobby bar. city’s grandest Christmas throughout the season. Newer traditions seem primed for trees, decking the Great But D.C. holiday traditions are hardly Instagram. The Watergate Hotel offers a Hall in the Thomas Jef- staid and static. They evolve to reflect rooftop iceless skating rink, Top of the Skate, ferson Building. 10 1st. SE, the times. George Washington’s beloved and party “igloos” on the patio, where 202.707.8000, loc.gov home, Mount Vernon, still offers its classic skaters indulge in cocktails and cold-weather  SEASONS GREENINGS candlelight tours during the season comfort food like raclette. The Georgetown All month, model trains but recently added fireworks over the neighborhood’s fifth annual holiday lights chug through a whimsical Potomac to the mix (a perfect ending to experience, GLOW, turns on interactive plant-based display, with your Snapchat Story). Other Mount Vernon light installations, including a movement- mini versions of D.C. land- events cater to our dog friends (the Dec. 1 activated kinetic work at Francis Scott Key marks made completely of Howliday Photo Station where canines Park and animated characters on Book Hill plants decorating the Gar- dressed in holiday finery can have their that change colors based on visitor tweets. den Court. 100 Ave. pics snapped with some of the estate’s Nothing is more time-honored than SW, 202.225.8333, usbg.gov costumed characters) and the DIY-obsessed shopping during the holidays, so it’s no  ZOOLIGHTS At the (a two-hour wreath workshop with Mount surprise that the White House Christmas National Zoo, more than Vernon’s greenhouse manager on Dec. 9). Ornament has been a popular buy 500,000 eco-friendly bulbs The Washington Ballet’s “Nutcracker” since 1981. The inspiration for this year’s “dance” to music when the Holidays 2.0 production marks its 15th year, but don’t ornament (this page) is a moment in White sun goes down. 3001 Con- assume those sugar plums have gotten House history of great change: Harry In a city steeped in tradition, new customs necticut Ave. NW, 202.633.3045, dusty. The setting is still 1882 Georgetown Truman’s extensive 1947-48 renovation nationalzoo.si.edu light up the spirit of the season. but now surprise ballerinas roam the of the residence that added the Truman By Amy Alipio lobby of the historic Warner Theatre, and Balcony to the South Portico. audiences look forward to photo ops with It seems renewal may be Washington’s COURTESY THE WHITE HOUSE HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION; (FACING PAGE) ©SAM KITTNER ©SAM PAGE) (FACING ASSOCIATION; HISTORICAL HOUSE WHITE THE COURTESY PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE GOES CREDIT PHOTO the large cast of characters. longest lasting tradition.

8 WHERE I APRIL 2017 9 WHERE WASHINGTON DECEMBER 2018 SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Shop

BOOKS CRAFTS & HOME DECOR & GIFTS Place NW, 202.455.5314 Metro: KRAMERBOOKS & COLLECTIBLES HOME RULE Dupont Circle (South) AFTERWORDS CAFE THE INDIAN CRAFT SHOP Tiny but expertly curated den Newly expanded indie At Department of the of kitchen and bath gear in KIDS bookstore with full-service Interior since 1938, outlet for bright hues. Essentials and LABYRINTH restaurant and bar since 1976. American Indian artists to fun accessories. M-Sa 11 am- Capitol Hill store stocking Events, live music, patio. Su-Th market their crafts. Basketry, 7 pm, Su noon-5:30 pm. 1807 games from classics (Chutes 7:30 am-1 am, F-Sa till 3 am. weavings, carvings, kachinas, 14th St. NW, 202.797.5544 & Ladders, Monopoly) to 1517 Connecticut Ave. NW, beadwork plus outdoor sculp- role-playing and expansion Shop SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc 202.387.1400 Metro: Dupont ture garden. Present ID to WHITE HOUSE HISTORICAL (Catan). Puzzles, Pokemon, Circle (North) enter building. M-F 8:30 am- ASSOCIATION STEM. Dedicated area for 4:30 pm and the third Sa of Books, Christmas ornaments, younger kids. In-store events Shop Made in DC POLITICS AND PROSE each month 10 am-4 pm. 1849 jewelry and items inspired like tournaments (Magic the Since 1984, niche selections C St. NW, 202.208.4056 by the history of the White Gathering), monthly kids’ Retail-minded folk in the Dupont Circle neighborhood who and popular book signings. House. Hours vary by lo- night out (games, pizza). Tu, make their way south of the circle are rewarded at this newish In-store OPUS book machine LOOPED YARN WORKS cation. 1450 Pennsylvania Th-F 10 am-10 pm; W 10 am- prints and binds books for au- Well-organized home-like Ave. NW, 202.208.7031 Metro: 9 pm; Sa 9 am-7 pm; Su 10 am- boutique marketplace. Here, the local maker movement is fully thors in minutes. Coffee shop shop encouraging in-store Federal Triangle; 1610 H St. NW, 6 pm. 645 Pennsylvania Ave. downstairs (daily from 8 am). knitting. More than 30 brands 202.218.4337 Metro: Farragut SE, 202.544.1059 Metro: Eastern embraced and on display, with unique creations by Washington M-Sa 9 am-10 pm, Su 10 am- of yarns, patterns, and nee- North or Farragut West Market area artisans filling tables and shelves. What’s on sale? Curated 8 pm. 5015 Connecticut Ave. dles and notions. Weekly NW, 202.364.1919 classes and events. Hours JEWELRY LITTLE BIRDIES BOUTIQUE items from apparel and pottery to jewelry and body creams. vary. Check website for latest. LENKERSDORFER High-end children’s clothing Also on tap is a cafe serving up local food and beverages from 1732 Connecticut Ave. NW, Sister store to Liljenquist store for newborns to size 202.714.5667 Metro: Dupont & Beckstead since 1993. 14, plus organic products, top, only-in-D.C. spots like Birch & Barley, Red Apron Burger Bar Circle (North) Fine wristwatches by Patek gifts, fine art and bedroom Philippe, Breitling, Cartier, decor. Brands including Bella and Bluejacket Brewery on monthly rotation. 1333 19th St. NW, no Panerai as well as fine jewelry Bliss, Candy Lab, Milkbarn phone, shopmadeindc.com from Roberto Coin, Chopard, Kids, Young Versace and local Bulgari. Skilled technicians for designers. Tu-Sa 10 am-6 pm, repairs. M-Th 10 am-9 pm, F-Sa Su noon-5 pm. 1526 Wisconsin 10 am-9:30 pm, Su 11 am-7 pm. Ave. NW, 202.333.1059 SHOPPING CENTERS 7 pm 1961 Chain Bridge Road, pants, etc. By appointment. 2nd floor, 202.667.1122 Metro: 1961 Chain Bridge Road, Tysons CITYCENTERDC Tysons Corner, Va., 703.893.9400 1875 Connecticut Ave. NW, Dupont Circle (North) Corner, Va., 703.506.6712 Metro: SPECIALTY Luxury complex for coveted Metro: Tysons Corner 10th floor, 202.733.1913 Tysons Corner MAKETTO labels including Hermes, VIOLET Communal marketplace Louis Vuitton, Dior, Vince, APPAREL-MEN & Hip shop for on-trend looks LILJENQUIST & BECKSTEAD mixing retail, dining and plus restaurants Daniel Neiman Marcus, Macy’s, Saks WOMEN at affordable prices. Personal Since 1979 watches by Bulgari, coffee in a sleek setting Boulud’s DBGB Kitchen and Fifth Avenue plus 100 other BILLY REID styling available. M-Sa 10 am- Cartier, Rolex, Chopard. with outdoor seating. Bar, Momofuku, Centrolina upscale shops (Chanel, Gucci, Renowned designer’s collec- 8 pm, Su 11 am-6 pm. 1924 8th Bell & Ross timepieces “de- Menswear (Rains, Taikan) and and Fig & Olive. Tesla dealer- Louis Vuitton, Michael Kors) tion of rugged button-ups, St. NW, Suite 115, 202.621.9225 signed for professionals,” accessories. James Beard ship. Hours vary. 10th St. NW in addition to restaurants derby-ready suits, K distressed Metro: U Street-Cardozo Tacori diamond rings and Award-nominee Erik Bruner- (Between H and I), 202.289.9000 (Legal Sea Foods) and Isabella leather handbags. M-Th 11 am- David Yurman bracelets. Yang overseeing a menu Metro: Metro Center or Gallery Eatery upscale food court 7 pm, F-Sa 11 am-8 pm, Su BEAUTY Hours vary by location. of Cambodian/Taiwanese Pl-Chinatown (third floor). M-Sa 10 am-9 pm, noon-6 pm. 3211 M St. NW, BELLACARA Tysons Galleria (watch store), street food (steamed pork Su noon-6 pm. Exit I-495 at 202.499.6765 Angela Sitilides’ spot for 2001 International Drive, bao, Taiwanese fried chicken). FASHION CENTRE 46A. 2001 International Drive, luxury skincare, beauty and McLean, Va., 703.448.6731; Frenchie’s desserts, Vigilante AT PENTAGON CITY McLean, Va., 703.827.7730 PROPER TOPPER haircare. Bumble and Bumble, , 2412 coffee. M-Th 7 am-10 pm, F-Sa Light-filled mall with Berets to derbies, cloches Butter London, Dermalogica, Montgomery Mall, Bethesda, till 11 pm, Su 7 am-5 pm. 1351 and Macy’s, 170- APPAREL-MEN and fascinators. Also gifts, Kai, Skinceuticals, all tested by Md., 301.469.7575; Fairfax H St. NE, 202.838.9972 plus shops (Forever 21, J. Crew, ONWARD RESERVE clothes, jewelry, accesso- Sitilides herself. M-F 11 am- Square, 8075 Leesburg Pike, Sephora, Superdry, Zara). Food Georgia-based designer’s ries. Hours vary by location. 6 pm, Sa 10 am-6 pm, Su Vienna, Va., 703.749.1200; UNION MARKET court. M-Sa 10 am-9:30 pm, store for outdoorsy looks in 1350 Connecticut Ave. NW, noon-5 pm. 1000 King St., , 1660 Culinary marketplace with Su 11 am-6 pm. 1100 S. Hayes a glam hunting lodge-like 202.842.3055 Metro: Dupont Alexandria, Va., 703.299.9652 Annapolis Mall, Annapolis, Md., local “artisan” vendors in- St., Arlington, Va., 703.415.2401 space. Accessories, decor, Circle (South); 3322 Wisconsin 410.224.4787 cluding Follain natural cos- Metro: Pentagon City gifts. Bar. M-Sa 10 am-8 pm, Ave. NW, 202.321.7499 TAKE CARE SHOP metics, Peregrine Espresso, Su noon-6 pm. 1063 Wisconsin Bright studio for all-natural MALLORY SHELTER JEWELRY Righteous Cheese Co. and Ave. NW, 202.838.9365 APPAREL-WOMEN beauty brands (women and Handmade jewelry in 14-karat Rappahannock Oyster Co., Largest mall in the metropol- SECONDI men), made locally in small gold, vermeil, sterling silver, plus John Mooney’s Bidwell itan area has 300-plus shops, READ WALL Sunny shop reselling upscale batches. Daily 11 am-7 pm. 1338 semi-precious gemstones. restaurant. Wines, fresh bread, restaurants and a cineplex. Local founder with knowl- labels with deeper discounts Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202.717.2600 Custom orders (engagement/ empanadas. Tu-F 11 am-8 pm, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, L.L. edgeable staff helping with by the day. M-Tu, Sa 11 am- wedding, platinum, dia- Sa-Su 8 am-8 pm. 6th St. and Bean, Lego, West Elm and Zara. “natural shoulder” tailored 6 pm, W-F 11 am-7 pm, Su 1- monds). By appointment only Neal Place NE 301.347.3998

M-Sa 10 am-9:30 pm, Su 11 am- suits and bespoke. Also shirts, 5 pm. 1702 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC IN MADE SHOP COURTESY and online. 1921 Sunderland

10 WHERE I DECEMBER 2018 11 Food SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Food

Sababa MELLOW MUSHROOM plus pasta, jambalaya, burg- Cocktails, beers. L (M-Sa), Blvd., 703.465.0145 Metro: In D.C., restaurateur Ashok Bajaj’s empire keeps Pizza Eco-minded spot ers, tacos. Festive Anchor Bar D (daily). 3804 Mount Vernon Clarendon known for “southern” pizza, with 16 high-definition TVs for Ave., 703.684.6010 growing, with new—and instantly popular— pretzels, calzones, salads and sports, happy hour specials. L, PUPATELLA hoagies. Craft beers on tap, D (M-F), Br (Sa-Su). 105 King St., TRADEMARK Pizza A, 1,800-square-foot spots like this one. Sababa tips its hat to the vegetarian and gluten-free 703.836.5676 American In the Westin, Neapolitan-style pizzeria. growing popularity of modern Israeli food in a options. Rooftop bar and sophisticated gastropub Signature margherita pizza patio. L, D (daily). 2436 18th St. HANK’S PASTA BAR named for nearby patent from a wood-fired oven. Beer cozy two-story space in Cleveland Park. Inside, NW, 202.290.2778 Italian Part of Jamie Leeds’ office (see famous inventor and wine. L, D (Tu-Su) 5104 start a meal with salatim, a collection of spreads ever-expanding Hank’s em- photos). British spins on Bass Wilson Blvd., 571.243.2952 MINTWOOD PLACE pire, this one focusing on Ale fish and chips, beer can and cold dishes designed to whet the appetite American Cedric Maupillier’s handmade pastas—15 vari- chicken and mac and cheese. RAY’S THE STEAKS for mains like salmon kebabs marinated in a classy comfort food (sustaina- eties, plus risotto, antipasti, Inventive cocktails. Happy Steaks Local institution with ble and local): deviled pickled crostini, whole-roasted fish, hour punch specials, bar spare ambiance but lauded, pomegranate and labne sauce and stuffed quail eggs, duck and pork cassou- lamb chops. Reservations rec- late. B, D (daily), Br (Su). 2080 high-quality steaks. From let, parmesan leek risotto, key ommended. L (M-Th), D (daily), Jamieson Ave., Alexandria., Va., steak tartare served deviled doused in a shakshuka sauce. 3311 Connecticut Ave. lime pie. Kids menu. Cocktails, Br (F-Su). 600 Montgomery St., 703.253.8640 eggs-style to NY strip and NW, 202.244.6750, sababauptown.com beers on tap. Green-friendly 571.312.4117 seafood. D (daily). 2300 Wilson interior with wood from an VIRTUE FEED & GRAIN Blvd. 703.841.7297 Metro: Court Amish barn. D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa- LIVE OAK Irish In a two-level, 1800s House Su). 1813 Columbia Road NW, Southern Chef Justus Frank former feed house near the 14TH & U CORRIDOR GHIBELLINA MAYDAN Hotel, 1770 Euclid St. NW, 202.234.6732 (Fiola) bringing Charleston by waterfront, upscale tavern TEXAS JACK’S BARBECUE BEN’S CHILI BOWL Italian Sleek-meets-rustic Middle Eastern Rose Previte 202.864.4180 way of Alexandria. Upscale fare (duck meatloaf, jerk Barbecue Airy, industrial Southern Former pool hall “Italian gastro-pub” for Tuscan of popular Compass Rose TAIL UP GOAT comfort classics (head on) chicken, crab dip, steak frites, space named for a legendary serving chili half-smokes, fare: seafood, veal, calamari, hitting flavor high notes in GRILL FROM IPANEMA American Up-and-comers shrimp and grits, smoked lobster pot pie). Specialty Virginia cowboy dishes up burgers, cakes to Obama et. al., pizzas, salumi, pastas, porter- underground digs featuring Brazilian Alcy De Souza’s with lauded resumes (Komi, pork ribs, braised collard beers. L, D (daily), Br (Su). Bar smoky Texas-style barbecue. since 1958. B (M-F); L, D (daily). house steak for two. Beers, a blazing hearth. Seafood, authentic seafood stews, Little Serow) in their own laid- greens tortellini. Strawberry till late. 106 S. Union St. (at King Mexican flavors in sides such 1213 U St. NW, 202.667.0909 cocktails, wines. L (Th-F), D kabobs, meats, spreads and Brazilian paella and pastas, back Michelin-starred spot. shortcake, housemade ice St.) 571.970.3669 as esquites (elote corn salad) Metro: U St.-Cardozo; 1001 H St. (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 1610 14th St. salads trotting the globe from spiced shrimp, filet with Inventive twists on classics: cream. D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). and coleslaw. Pumpkin pie to NE, 202.733.1895; 1725 Wilson NW, 202.803.2389 North Africa to Iran. Bar till Madeira wine sauce, chicken smoked potato ravioli, lamb 1603 Commonwealth Ave., VOLA’S DOCKSIDE GRILL AND banana pudding and full bar Blvd., Arlington, Va., 571.312.1091 late. D (daily). 1346 Florida Ave. Copacabana, feijoada and ribs. D (daily). 1827 Adams Mill 571.312.0402 -E LONE for “Smoked Whiskey Sour,” IZAKAYA SEKI NW, 202.370.3696 Metro: caipirinhas served beneath Road NW, 202.986.9600 Seafood Named for the “Jack’s Mule.” Beer and wine. L COMPASS ROSE Japanese Warm and welcom- U Street-Cardozo “palm trees.” D (daily), Br (Sa- MOUNT VERNON INN city’s feisty first woman city (M-F) D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 2761 Global Colorful rowhouse for ing two-level spot for raw, Su). 1858 Columbia Road NW, ALEXANDRIA, VA. Southern Candlelit dining with manager with a hand in the Washington Blvd., 703.875.0477 international street food fa- grilled and fried Japanese ADAMS MORGAN, D.C. 202.986.0757 CHART HOUSE George and Martha favorites waterfront’s development, a vorites. Georgian khachapuri, small plates. Sashimi, grilled A RAKE’S PROGRESS Seafood On Old Town wa- like hoecakes, peanut and casual and friendly spot for YONA Lebanese lamb kefta. Private whole squid, vegetables, American James Beard winner LAPIS AFGHAN BISTRO terfront with fresh seafood chestnut soup, plus cheddar seafood comfort foods. Fish Japanese, Korean Full-service dinners for up to eight in noodles. Sakes, shochu (glass Spike Gjerde’s first D.C. foray Afghan The Popal family’s ode and capital views. Crab burger, duck with apricot and chips, crab cakes, fried restaurant from Mike Isabella glam Bedouin-style tent. or bottle). D (Tu-Su). 1117 V St. focused on local producers to Afghan home cooking soup, spiced ahi, snapper sauce, crab cakes, fried chicken with water views. Hi- Concepts mixing contem- D (daily), Br (Su). 1346 T St. NW, NW, 202.588.5841 and seasonal ingredients. Raw with matriarch in the kitchen. Hemingway, prime rib, chicken, steaks. Children’s Tide Lounge for bar bites, fro- porary with traditional fare. 202.506.4765 bar, small plates (fried quail, Comfort foods like mantoo “hot chocolate” lava cake. menu. Fireplace. Live music zen cocktails, beer, wine. L, D Ramen, poke bowl, kim- LE DIPLOMATE bone broth), shared dishes (dumplings), bolani (stuffed Beer, wine, whiskeys. Happy some nights. L (M-F), D (Tu- (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 101 N. Union chi-brined short rib. Craft DOI MOI French Stephen Starr’s red (stuffed whole porgy, rib flat breads), grilled kabobs, hour weekdays. L (M-Sa), D Sa), Br (Sa-Su). 3200 Mount St., 703.935.8890 beer, sake and specialty cock- Asian Inspired by Thai and banquettes, zinc-topped bar eye), mains (spit-roasted par- plus vegetarian dishes (sabzi, (daily), Br (Su). 1 Cameron St. Vernon Memorial Parkway, tails. L, D (daily). 4000 Wilson Viet street foods: curries, and a “garden room” for steak tridge, grilled sweet potato). sauteed spinach; samarok, 703.684.5080 703.799.6800 ARLINGTON, VA. Blvd., Suite C, 703.465.1100 noodles, rice dishes, taro frites, foie gras “parfait,” lamb Extensive wine list with local sauteed mushrooms). Airy COPPERWOOD TAVERN root and potato dumplings stew with fennel and oranges, makers. D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). space with blue (lapis) ac- COLUMBIA FIREHOUSE NASIME American In Shirlington CAPITOL HILL and two-flavor ices. 2 Birds sorbets. D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). The Line Hotel, 1770 Euclid St. cents, family portraits and American Inside the former Japanese Cozy modern dining Village, small plates starring ACQUA AL 2 1 Stone sister bar with Asian 1601 14th St. NW, 202.332.3333 NW, 202.864.4190 antique rugs. Patio. D (daily), 19th-century Columbia Steam room on bustling main drag locally-sourced game, poul- Italian Restaurant of cocktails (upstairs) and clas- Br (Sa-Su). 1847 Columbia Road Engine Fire Company, a two- in Old Town, pampering try, beef and fish with fami- chef-owner Ari Gejdenson sics (down). D (daily). 1800 14th LUPO VERDE BROTHERS AND SISTERS NW, 202.299.9630 tiered brasserie/bar with glass with high-end tasting menu ly-style sides. Bar with 20 draft with recipes like beef fillet St. NW, 202.733.5131 Italian Dig into calamari American/Asian James Beard- atrium. Raw bar, small plates highlighting from-scratch beers, whiskeys, moonshines, with blueberry sauce, grilled stew, risottos, branzino with nominated Erik Bruner-Yang’s MADAM’S ORGAN and “supper” (comfort food, Japanese dishes at an afforda- wines. Seasonal patio. L (M- eggplant, parmesan cheese DUKEM black trumpet mushrooms, newest all-day restaurant. Soul Food Live music nightly burgers, steaks and chops). L ble price. D (daily). 1209 King F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 4021 appetizers plus soups and Ethiopian Expat haven for bombolini. Small plates, char- Western-style food as seen at this rowdy bar where red- (Tu-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 109 St., 703.457.0146 Campbell Ave., 703.552.8010 salads. L (Tu-Sa), D (daily). 212 communal-style, spice-rich cuturie, pizzas, paninis. Made- through the lens of Japan and heads get a half-price drink S. Saint Asaph St., 703.683.1776 Seventh St. SE, 202.525.4375 kitfo, tibs, vegetarian dishes in-house cheeses, prosciutto, Taiwan (milk bread with eggs special. Comfort foods like RT’S RESTAURANT NORTHSIDE SOCIAL to scoop with spongy injera. pastas. D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). and potato rosti, octopus fried chicken, meatloaf, mac FISH MARKET Cajun/Creole Neighborhood American Coffee, wine, light AMBAR VIP Bar with Ethiopian art. NFL 1401 R St. NW, 202.827.4752 hot dog, knife-cut noodles). and cheese. Pool tables, kara- American Housed in a spot with character and fare and microbrews in a Balkan A Belgrade original on big-screen TVs. Live jazz. Luxuries like an uni tray ser- oke, rooftop bar. D (daily). 2461 two-century-old ship ware- sounds from zydeco to blues. residential double-decker in in D.C. with communal L, D (daily). 1114-1118 U St. NW, vice with multiple toppings. 18th St. NW, 202.667.5370 house serving seafood Known for Jack Daniels shrimp, Clarendon. Breads and pas- tables, copper-top bar 202.667.8735 B, L & D (daily). The Line favorites including Atlantic alligator stew, gumbos, po- tries, house-cured meats and and Mediterranean decor. salmon, snow crab legs, oys- boys, seafood, she-crab fish. B, L, D (daily). 3211 Wilson Serbia meets New World

©GREG POWERS ©GREG ters and whole Maine lobster, soup and crawfish étouffée. in slow-cooked meats and

12 WHERE I DECEMBER 2018 13 Food SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Food

mezze, white veal soup and 202.543.8222 Metro: Capitol 1652 K St. NW, 202.861.2233 and all the fixings. Raw bar, rye and blended scotch rack of lamb and slow-cooked 202.462.8999 Metro: Dupont low-fat items. Carryout and cheese pie. Balkan wines and South; 2110 Crystal Drive, Metro: Farragut North; 145 sushi, soups, salads. Good whiskey). L, D, Br, times vary salmon. B, L, D (daily), Br Circle delivery. L, D (daily). 1912 I (Eye) beers, 30 varieties of Serbian Arlington, Va., 703.415.4663 National Harbor Blvd., Oxon cocktails, excellent California- by location. 1624 Q St. NW, (Sa-Su). 1731 New Hampshire St. NW, 202.293.6000 Metro: Rakia. Bar late. Hours vary Metro: Crystal City Hill, Md., 301.567.6224; Reston heavy wine list (50-plus by the 202.462.4265 Metro: Dupont Ave. NW, 202.787.1500 Metro: FOGGY BOTTOM/ Farragut West by location. 523 Eighth St. SE, Town Center, Reston, Va., glass). “10 layer” carrot cake, Circle; 633 Pennsylvania Dupont Circle WEST END 202.813.3039 Metro: Eastern ROSE’S LUXURY 703.481.6600; 8484 Westpark baked Alaska. L (M-F), D (daily). Ave. SE, 202.733.1971 Metro: BEEFSTEAK EL CHALAN Market; 2901 Wilson Blvd., American In a Barracks Row Drive, McLean, Va., 703.848.8000; 1341 G St. NW, 202.393.0313 Eastern Market; 1026 King St., SIREN American/Vegetarian From Peruvian D.C.’s oldest Peruvian 703.875.9663 Metro: Clarendon “farmhouse,” Michelin-starred, 2010 Crystal Drive, Arlington, Va., Alexandria, Va., 703.759.4265 Seafood Robert Wiedmaier’s José Andrés, fast-casual cafe with lomo saltado (filet no-reservations spot for 703.413.6400 Metro: Crystal City PLUME Metro: King Street (about seven handsome, Old World-style serving veggie-heavy menu strips with fried potato), CAFE BERLIN small plates (pork and lychee American Ralf Schlegel’s blocks); 701 Wharf St. SW, quarters in Logan Circle for of bowls (some meat, too). South American-style paella German & European In salad, clams and white wine) MIRABELLE Michelin-starred restau- 202.817.3055 Metro: Waterfront pristine fish. Raw bar, seafood Fresh-pressed juices, wine drawing World Bank crowd. three former town houses, or family-style meals (fried French-American Blocks from rant with luxe dishes à la towers, caviar service, whole and local craft beer, plus Touted by Hispanic Magazine traditional and light fare: chicken). Upstairs bar (same the executive mansion, ele- Monticello’s gardens inside OBELISK fish, plus wagyu New York Spindrift sodas. B, L, D (daily). as among top 50 U.S. Latin schnitzels, pork medallions, food). D (M-Sa). 717 Eighth St. gant dining room for dishes elegant Jefferson Hotel. Prix Italian In an intimate brown- strip, roasted duck. Stylish, 800 22nd St. NW, 202.296.1439 restaurants. L, D (M-Sa). 1924 I goulasch. Housemade tradi- SE, 202.580.8889 highlighting New England fixe, chef’s tasting. Foie gras stone, foodie destination classic cocktails/wine/beer. Metro: Foggy Bottom-GWU; (Eye) St. NW, 202.293.2765 Metro: tional cakes and tarts. German roots. Butter poached Maine terrine, lobster gratin, risotto, for 20-plus years. Daily Pre-theater menu. Live jazz 1528 Connecticut Ave. NW, Farragut West wines and beers. Popular TED’S BULLETIN lobster, stuffed quail. Valet Angus prime filet, bison with five-course prix fixe by chef- Th-Sa pm. D (daily), Br (Su). 202.986.7597 Metro: Dupont sidewalk tables in good American Lively spot with parking at dinner. Hibiscus blueberry barbecue sauce. turned-owner Esther Lee. 1515 Rhode Island Ave. NW, Circle (North); 4531 Wisconsin KAZ SUSHI BISTRO weather. L (M-F), D (daily), Br vintage decor and leather poached apple with black Cozy nooks, 1,300-label wine Reservations recommend- 202.521.7171 Ave. NW, 202.244.2529 Japanese Prized chef Kazuhiro (Su). 322 Massachusetts Ave. booths. All-day breakfast, sesame ice cream. Tasting cellar, landscape murals ed. D (Tu-Sa). 2029 P St. NW, Okochi’s intimate spot for NE, 202.543.7656 Metro: Union barbecue, chili, “supper” menus available (check web- on silk and fireplace. Free 202.872.1180 SUSHI TARO CHALIN’S seared albacore tuna, pork Station dishes. Pastries like pies and site for updated prices). L (M- parking. The Greenhouse for Japanese Michelin-starred Chinese Mandarin, Szechuan belly lettuce wrap, grilled “pop tarts.” Bar with milk- F), D (M-Sa). 900 16th St. NW, light fare, Quill for cocktails. THE RIGGSBY second-story spot with and Cantonese dishes by baby octopus. Tasting menu, CHIKO shakes, malts and cocktails. 202.506.3833 Metro: McPherson D (Tu-Sa). 1200 16th St. NW, American Retro-style digs cherry wood walls and tatami chefs with a “century of bento boxes, sakes. Counter Asian DC’s Scott Drewno B, L, D (daily). 505 8th St. SE, Square or Farragut West 202.448.3227 inside the Carlyle Hotel as rooms, kimonoed hostess experience.” Contemporary seats near the knife work. (The Source) and Danny Kim 202.544.8337 Metro: Eastern backdrop for James Beard and exotic sushi (flute fish, live takes on traditional cuisine: L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1915 I (Eye) St. (Mandu) joining forces for Market; 1818 14th St. NW, MORTON’S DUPONT CIRCLE Award-winner Michael scallops) by master chef Nobu soups, dumplings, seafood NW, 202.530.5500 Chinese and Korean flavors in 202.265.8337; 11948 Market St., Steaks Handsome spaces for BOQUERIA Schlow’s elevated classics. Yamazaki and team. L (M-F), pork, duck, beef, noodles. cumin lamb stir-fry, pork and Reston, Va.; 2911 District Ave., locals and power lunchers Spanish Inspired by tapas Roast chicken, tuna tartare, D (M-Sa). 1503 17th St. NW, Vegetarian, low-sodium and GEORGETOWN kimchi potstickers, rib eye Fairfax, Va., 571.830.6680 digging into porterhouse, bars of Barcelona, lively spot 1789 RESTAURANT with rice cakes. Vegetarian, New York strip, filet mignon, for zesty bites like Colorado American Federal townhouse gluten-free. “Kitchen Counter” DOWNTOWN lobster. L (M-F), D (daily). lamb skewers with pickled with cozy rooms and fireplac- with views of the action for up AMERICAN SON 1050 Connecticut Ave. NW, shallots, quail eggs and chori- es drawing presidents and to four (reserve online). “After American Tim Ma’s all-day 202.955.5997 Metro: Farragut zo, bacon-wrapped dates, Eat, Drink, SHAW politicos. Tom Colicchio alum Dark” series with guest chefs cafe serving up twists on North; 1750 Crystal Drive, Ibérico ham, artisanal chees- Samuel Kim adds modern A world of fl avors, steps from Chinatown, the and tasting menus. Check American fare as seen 703.418.1444 Metro: Crystal es, churros. Sangria, cava touches to a traditional menu schedule online. D (daily). 423 through the eyes of an im- City; 3251 Prospect St. NW, cocktail, sherries, wines. L, D Convention Center and U Street nightlife. while David Collier crafts 8th St. SE, 202.558.9934 Metro: migrant. Bone-in ribeye and 202.342.6258 (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 1837 M St. NW exquisite desserts. Free valet —RAMMY Awards,Use 2017 our free mobile app, DineinShaw,Masa, Mole & Mezcal Eastern Market Hudson Valley duck breast, 202.558.9545 Metro: Dupont 1230 9th Street, NW • 202-567-1358to see over 100 options. parking. D (daily). 1226 36th St. but also tofu gnocchi and OCCIDENTAL GRILL Circle (South) www.shawmainstreets.org NW, 202.965.1789 GARRISON spaghetti squash “ssam” & SEAFOOD American Culinary Institute (wraps). B, L, D (daily). 1201 K American Legendary spot DUKE’S GROCERY AMERICA EATS TAVERN of America-trained Robert St. NW, 202.900.8416 Metro: sending out duck breast, British/American Eclectic East American James Beard Weland working with local McPherson Sq filet mignon, butternut London-inspired bites with Award winner José Andrés farms to produce seasonal squash ravioli, classic Maine an ever-changing menu (see Award Winning Cocktails with: relocating this popular spot “BestAward Cocktail Winning Bar Cocktails in America with: ” dishes in a warm, wood-ac- EQUINOX RESTAURANT lobster bisque. Wines, craft Facebook page for the day’s Southern Classics, Made to Order from to —Tales of the— Spirited Cocktail Awards, 2017 2017 1819 7th Street, NW • 202-849-3518 cented space. Whole-roasted American Conscientious, beers, cocktails. Weekday offerings). Sarnie (aka, sand- 1222801 124Florida 9th Blagden Street, Avenue, Alley, NW NW • | 202-316-9396|202-450-1015 202-332-0207 1222 9th Street, NW • 202-450-1015 Georgetown’s main drag. vegetables, housemade prize-winning Todd Gray pair- happy hour with bar fare. wich) varieties like sausage, www.columbiaroomdc.comwww.801dc.com www.masondixiebiscuits.com Classic American fare skillet pastas, locally sourced fish ing wines to crab cakes with Valet $8 (with validation) at BLT, spiced lentil and a “proper cornbread, oyster-heavy “Best and meat. Cocktail menu, grits, grass-fed veal, Muscovy Occidental. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). burger” with Angus beef. G seafood bar, BBQ, wood- Euro-focused wines. D (Tu-Su), duck, vegan options. A la 1475 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Unconventional curries and Sports Bar” fire-grilled salmon. Martha —Washington Br (Sa-Su). 524 Eighth St. SE, carte or multicourse tastings. 202.783.1475 Metro: Metro seasonal salads. Wine and beer. City Paper Washington’s chocolate cake. 202.506.2445 Prix-fixe menus (regular and Center L (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 1513 —RAMMY Awards, 2017 L, D (daily). 3139 M St. NW, TH vegan) four or six courses, 17th St. NW, 202.733.5623 Metro: 1914 9 Street, NW A Whole1414 9th Grain Street, NW Bakery 202.450.6862 GOOD STUFF EATERY wine extra. L (M-F), D (M-Sa), OCEAN PRIME Dupont Circle 1230 9th Street,202.686.2966 NW • 202-567-1358 900 U Street,926(202) N NW Street, 588-5810 • 202.332.6355 NW www.nelliessportsbar.com American “Top Chef” con- Br (Su). 818 Connecticut Ave. Seafood & Steak Local outpost www.DinosGrotto.com 202.842.1122www.immthai.com | www.seylou.com CHEZ BILLY SUD testant Spike Mendelsohn’s NW, 202.331.8118 of restaurateur Cameron HANK’S OYSTER BAR French Brothers Eric Hilton specialty burgers, hand-cut Mitchell’s Columbus, Ohio, Seafood Chef Jamie Leeds with Sensational food and Ian Hilton’s classic bistro. Urban Backyard �� fries, old-fashioned shakes. MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S original in historic Beaux Arts her famous “Meat and Two” ���� � ���eUrbane�, �� Backyard —Washington Post Boeuf Bourguignon, steak ������� ������� Modern-rustic counter ser- Seafood Famed West Coast Colorado Building, two blocks (one protein like molasses ���� � ���ee�, �� 922 N Street, NW, frites, roasted butternut �����������o����a����������co� vice, communal table, cell restaurant with clubby quar- from White House. Glitzy, short ribs or fried oysters Wild Caught. Wood Grilled. Delicious. Rear (Blagden Alley) squash soup served in a cozy phone charging stations. L, ters for fresh catches, bass, remodeled digs for a sea- with two sides). Wines and �������o����a��co� residence-like space. L (Tu-F), D (M-Sa); Airport B, L, D (daily). oysters, draft beers, single food-focused “from-scratch” cocktails like “i know what 637 Florida Avenue, NW 202.733.1152 D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 1039 31st St. 303 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, malts. Hours vary by site. menu, featuring prime steaks boys like” (bacon-washed www.wearefishscale.com www.tigerforkdc.com NW, 202.965.2606

14 WHERE I DECEMBER 2018 15

1914 9TH Street, NW 202.686.2966 www.DinosGrotto.com Food SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Food

FIOLA MARE NORTHEAST D.C. CRIMSON DINER FIG & OLIVE an award-winning wine list. a mezze offerings inspired Seafood James Beard Award- LA PUERTA VERDE Southern The Hilton brothers’ Mediterannean California cool Most locations L & D (daily). by Greek, Lebanese and winner Fabio Trabocchi’s ven- Mexican Inside historic attractive eatery inside mod- meets the South of France 704 7th St. NW, 202.347.0007 and Turkish cuisines. Go for ture by the river. Brinn Sinnott Hecht Warehouse, murals ern Pod Hotel. Bright space for at chic CityCenterDC. Two- Metro: Gallery Pl-Chinatown; the small plates, innovative sending out oysters, smoked and talavera tiles setting a all-day breakfast and Southern story space (plus two bars) 2301 Jefferson Davis Highway, cocktails and the selection of cod, Maine lobster, yellowfin colorful backdrop for tacos, classics (biscuits with sausage serving dishes like crostini, Arlington, Va., 703.415.1200 Mediterranean wines. L (daily); tuna carpaccio, appletart, tostadas, moles. Full bar, plus gravy, fried green tomato housemade pasta, grilled Metro: Crystal City; Ronald D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) 701 9th St. Sardinian ricotta doughnuts. aguas frescas. D (Tu-Su), Br BLT, gumbo, shrimp and scallop bouillabaisse, whole Reagan Washington National NW, 202.638.0800 Metro: Gallery Cocktails to mocktails. L (Tu- (Sa-Su). 2001 Fenwick St. NE, grits). Coffee bar pouring branzino, beef carpaccio. L Airport, Terminal C, Arlington, Pl-Chinatown F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). Valet 202.290.1875 Blanchard’s. Homemade (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 934 Va., 703.413.9810 Metro: Ronald (day only) $16. 3050 K St. NW, desserts. B, L, D (daily). 627 H St. Palmer Alley NW, 202.559.5004 Reagan Washington National SHAW 202.628.0065 LE GRENIER NW, 202.847.4459 Metro: Gallery Metro: Metro Center or Gallery Airport; Tysons Galleria, 2001 ARROZ French Homey, yet romantic Pl-Chinatown Pl-Chinatown International Drive, McLean, Spanish Celebrity chef Mike MARTIN’S TAVERN bi-level bistro with an antique a space to enjoy French cuisine Va., 703.827.8900 Isabella’s concept inside American Since 1933, politicos attic setting. Classic fare ele- with a great wine selection DBGB KITCHEN AND BAR JALEO Marriott Marquis for Spanish (from JFK to George W. Bush), gantly presented: braised beef & craft cocktails in a vintage attic French Daniel Boulud’s bus- Spanish Tapas (60 hot and MOMOFUKU favorites plus flavors of decor, a cosy atmosphere Supreme Court justices, spies, stew, snails in parley-garlic tling bistro in CityCenter. cold) and paella by José Asian Prize-winning chef Portugal and Morocco with intimate ambiance celebs and Georgetown butter, duck breast, salads, House-cured meats, seafood, Andrés and team. Spanish David Chang’s popular NYC with fine dining upgrades. on the vibrant H street corridor friends have been saying cheeses, desserts. D (Tu- burgers, suckling pig. Glass wines, sherries. L, D (daily). 480 spot for pork buns, ramen Namesake rice dishes topped “Meet me at Martin’s.” Classic Su), Br (Sa-Su). 502 H St. NE, walls, casual seats in Bar 7th St. NW, 202.628.7949 Metro: noodles, “bo ssam” whole with duck breast or soft-shell fare: tavern burger, prime 202.544.4999 Room, china plates signed by Archives-Navy Memorial ; 7271 roasted pork shoulder lettuce crab. Sangrias on tap, sherry rib, fish and chips, lobster celeb chef pals. Good spirits, Woodmont Ave., Bethesda, wraps ($$$$) with Korean twist. cocktails. Extensive wine risotto, plus daily chef’s spe- MASSERIA French-focus wine list, unique Md., 301.913.0003 ; 2250 Limited number of reserva- list. L (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa- cials. Shaded patio, weather Italian A glam patio with beers. L (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa- Crystal Drive, Arlington, Va., tions accepted through web- Su). 901 Massachusetts Ave. permitting. Ask to see history granite fire pits leading into Su). 931 H St. NW, 202.695.7660 703.413.8181 site. L (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). NW, 202.869.3300 Metro: Mt. brochure. L (M-F), D (daily), Br Nicholas Stefanelli’s Michelin- OPEN BRUNCH Metro: Metro Center or Gallery 1090 I St. NW, 202.602.1832 Vernon Sq TUESDAY 502 H STREET NE | WASHINGTON, DC 20002 SATURDAY (Sa-Su). 1264 Wisconsin Ave. starred ode to Italy’s Puglia THRU & Pl-Chinatown LEGAL SEA FOODS Metro: Metro Center or Gallery NW, 202.333.7370 region. Set-price menu of SUNDAY 202.544.4999 | www.legrenierdc.com SUNDAY Seafood Famed for its lobster, Pl-Chinatown BISTRO BOHEM elegantly prepared season- raw bar, clam chowder and European Credit bohemian NATIONAL HARBOR al dishes in four, five or six OCEANAIRE SEAFOOD ROOM vibe (Art Nouveau artwork, FISH BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS courses. Check website for Seafood Swank “oceanliner” bare brick walls) to Czech Seafood Beard winner José latest prices. No sneakers/ where celebs, power lunchers owner’s heritage. Pierogi, AUTHENTIC SZECHUAN, Andrés in glitzy MGM sportswear. D (Tu-Sa). 1340 MANDARIN & go for fresh catches. Alaskan pastika, beef goulash, braised National Harbor, with water 4th St. NE, 202.608.1330 Metro: CANTONESE CUISINE King crab, Coho salmon, pork with cabbage and and city views, ocean-themed NoMa-Gallaudet U Dover sole. Also crab cakes, dumplings. Bohemian beers, artwork. Expansive patio with steaks, oyster bar. Valet $12. L cocktails, wines. L (M-Th), D outdoor bar and fountains. PRIMROSE (M-F), D (daily). 1201 F St. NW, (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 600 Florida Live seafood in tanks high- French Lovely wine bistro by 202.347.2277 Metro: Metro Center Ave. NW, 202.735.5895 Metro: lighting local fare (Maryland husband-and-wife team in Shaw-Howard U blue crabs, Rappahannock emerging Brookland neigh- OYAMEL oysters) in global prepara- borhood. Ostrich plume Mexican A José Andrés cocina THE CAPITAL BURGER tions. Tuna tartare, lobster chandeliers highlighting with ceviche, tacos (mahi American The Capital Grille’s jambalaya. D (W-M). 7100 dining room for classics (char- Dine-in ~ Carry-out ~ Delivery ~ Online Ordering mahi, baby pig, even cricket), new sister spot serving up Oxon Hill Road, Oxon Hill, Md., cuterie, steak frites, braised stuffed poblano, hot and cold gourmet burgers (blue 301.971.6050 duck leg) and natural/small 1912 I (Eye) St. NW 202.293.6000 antijitos. Margarita with salt cheese and truffle, French production wines. L (M-F), D www.chalins.com “air,” 50 tequilas. Night owl onion-style) plus snacks VOLTAGGIO BROTHERS (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 3000 12th St. bar menu. L (M-F), D (daily), (kung pao brussels sprouts, STEAK HOUSE NE, 202.248.4558 Br (Sa-Su). 401 Seventh St. NW, house-made ancho barbecue Steakhouse Celebrity chef 202.628.1005 chips). Also salads, desserts, brothers Michael and Bryan PENN QUARTER/ children’s menu. L, D (daily). Voltaggio’s in ritzy MGM CHINATOWN We invite you to RASIKA 1005 7th St. NW, 202.638.0414 National Harbor resort. CHINA CHILCANO our cozy restaurant Indian James Beard Award- Residence-like digs for din- Asian-Latin Celeb chef José on Capitol Hill for winner Vikram Sunderam in CHAPLIN’S ing and imbibing. Dry-aged Andrés’s colorful spot mixing authentic German a open kitchen with griddle, Japanese Homage to the ac- USDA prime, American wagyu Peru’s Criollo, Chinese and barbecue, tandoori, curries. tor-comedian with cocktails plus classics with a modern Japanese. Pork dumplings, cuisine & beer. Enjoy (Pre-theater), 100 wines, bar named for his movies, 15 twist, like wedge salad dust- yellow potatoes in spicy, our outdoor patio, with exotic cocktails. L (M- drafts and 30 wines by the ed with gorgonzola “snow.” cream sauce. Shaved ice, weather permitting. F), D (M-Sa). 633 D St. NW, glass. Small plates, hot and Extensive wine list; Timeline sweet custard plus one of the A short walk from 202.637.1222 Metro: Archives- cold: shabu salad, handmade of cocktails from 1670’s largest pisco collections in GERMAN CUISINE Union Station Navy Memorial ramens, dumplings. Group “Clarified Milk Punch” to 2005’s the U.S. L, D (daily). 418 Seventh IN THE NATION’S CAPITAL in a brick row house. roasts (pig and lamb, $$$). L, “5-Spice Penicillin.” D (Tu-Su). St. NW, 202.783.0941 Metro: ZAYTINYA D (daily). 1501 Ninth St. NW, 101 MGM National Ave., Oxon Archives-Navy Memorial 322 Massachusetts Ave, NE • Washington, DC Mediterranean José Andrés’s 202.644.8806 Metro: Shaw- Hill, Md., 301.971.6060 202.543.7656 • cafeberlin-dc.com Santorini-esque spot with Howard U

16 WHERE I DECEMBER 2018 17 WASHINGTON D.C. Food SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc

CHERCHER MASON DIXIE BISCUIT CO. UNCONVENTIONAL DINER ‘n grits. L (M-F), D (daily), Ethiopian A friendly, casual Southern Hip, down-to-earth American A two-in-one diner Br (Sa-Su). 301 Water St. SE, restaurant serving popular spot for signature house- (cafe for breakfast; dining 202.479.4616 Metro: Navy Yard and authentic dishes like doro made buttermilk biscuits room for dinner) serving up WINTER GUIDE we’t (chicken stew) and yebeg starring in sandwiches, with classics with nontraditional KITH AND KIN we’t (lamb stew). Vegetarian fried chicken or on their own twists. Chicken parm topped Caribbean “Top Chef” alum VISIT options, Ethiopian coffee. (dozen, half dozen, single and with Gruyere, chicken pot and CIA/Hyde Park grad Spices for sale. L, D (daily). 1334 frozen). Milkshakes, coffee, pie poppers. Mid-century Kwame Onwuachi’s spot for 25+ MUSEUMS Ninth St. NW, 202.299.9703; 4921 pie. B, L (daily), D (M-F). 1819 touches with graffiti-like art. African-accented flavors. & ATTRACTIONS Bethesda Ave., Bethesda, Md., 7th St. NW, 202.849.3518 Metro: Inside Walter E. Washington “Torched” mackerel with 301.652.6500 Shaw-Howard U Convention Center. B, L (M-F), jollof rice, burger with house- D (M-Sa). 1207 Ninth St. NW, ground patties and jerk-spiced SEE CORTEZ METIER 202.847.0122 bacon. B, L, D (daily). The Wharf, Mexican Color-soaked, casual American In a historic 1907 801 Wharf St. SW, 202.878.8566 TOP VENUES taco restaurant and rooftop building, Eric Ziebold’s ex- WATERFRONT Metro: Waterfront FOR GREAT SHOWS bar channeling California’s clusive counterpoint to sister ANA AT DISTRICT WINERY Baja Peninsula with fish Kinship, accessible via private American Inside an urban ODYSSEY tacos, elotes (street corn) elevator. Seven-course tast- winery and event space, a Dining Cruises Glass-enclosed and tropical drinks (think ing menu preceded by hors cool Mid-century-style res- vessel with live band, monu- slushy Margaritas). D (W-Su), d’oeuvres in a salon with fire- taurant with water views for mental views. Three-course Br (Sa-Su). 1905 9th St. NW, place. Jackets for men/reser- sophisticated, vino-friendly meals. Two-hour lunch and 202.299.0381 Metro: Shaw- vations required. D (W-Sa). 1015 fare. Smoked duck, pan-roast- three-hour dinner departures Howard U Seventh St. NW, 202.737.7500 ed cod, charred broccoli daily. Boarding one hour Metro: Mt. Vernon Sq “steak.” Diverse wine list, good before. Holiday and specialty THE DABNEY cocktails. D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). cruises. L, D (daily). 600 Water American Jeremiah RIGHT PROPER BREWING 385 Water St. SE, 202.484.9210 St. SW, 800.306.2469 Metro: Langhorne’s Michelin-starred Brewpub Colorful murals Metro: Navy Yard Waterfront rustic digs in hip Blagden of D.C. and a full menu of Alley for open-hearth cook- Southern comfort food. View CHLOE OSTERIA MORINI ing, using ingredients from a brewing operation from the Global Lauded local Haidar Italian From Michael White, rooftop garden. Menu chang- back bar. L (F-Su), D (daily). Karoum’s first solo endeavor rustic cuisine of the Emilia- es daily. D (Tu-Su). Downstairs, Also a production facility exploring global flavors with Romagna with patio and Dabney Cellar pouring wines in Brookland with tasting a modern sensibility. Cobia water views. Grilled meats, by the glass paired with char- room and tours Sa-Su. Brew crudo, spiced beef hummus, octopus, housemade pastas. cuterie in a cozy, low-light pub, 624 T St. NW, 202.607.2337 roasted potato gnocchi, Small-batch and sparkling setting. No reservations. 122 Metro: Shaw-Howard U; whole fish. Chocolate sundae, wines, excellent cocktails. Blagden Alley, 202.450.1015 Production facility, 920 Girard cheese plate. Beer, wine, L (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). Metro: Mt. Vernon Sq St. NE, 202.526.5904 Metro: mocktails. L (Tu-F), D (daily), 301 Water St. SE, 202.484.0660 Brookland-CUA Br (Sa-Su). 1331 4th St. SE, Metro: Navy Yard HAIKAN 202.313.7007 Metro: Navy Yard Japanese Bright, modernist SHAW’S TAVERN REQUIN backdrop for Sapporo-style Saloons & Pubs Gastropub for DEL MAR French “Top Chef” celeb Mike ramen, along with playful “classic comforts and rustic Seafood James Beard Award- Isabella’s classic bistro fare small plates (mapo tofu pou- delicacies”: hush puppies, winner Fabio Trabocchi’s (steak frites, roasted chicken), tine, “pea-sar” Caesar salad pulled pork sandwich, pan- soaring digs paying homage plus small plates (foie gras, with peas). Washington Post seared salmon, grilled steak, to his wife’s Spanish coastal steak tartare). Crème brûlée. rated 2 1/2 stars. L (W-Su), D pizza, salads, cocktails. Live heritage. Wide-ranging menu Bottomless brunch. Mostly (daily). Bar late. 805 V St. NW., music Wednesdays. L (M-F), from tapas with a seaside spin French wine list. D (daily), Br 202.299.1000 Metro: Shaw- D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 520 Florida to caviar, grilled seafood and (Sa-Su) at Fairfax location. The Howard U Ave. NW, 202.518.4092 Metro: family-style paella. Classic Wharf, 100 District Square SW, Shaw-Howard U cocktails, mocktails, ciders. 202.827.8380 Metro: Waterfront KINSHIP Wine list focused on Spain, American Chef Eric Ziebold’s SAN LORENZO but also France and California. SPIRIT OF WASHINGTON Michelin-starred counterpart RISTORANTE + BAR L (Tu-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). Dining Cruises Four-level to sister Metier. Lobster French Italian Massimo Fabbri’s 791 Wharf St. SW, 202.525.1402 yacht-style vessel with roof- toast, grilled Japanese Kuroge rustic, chic kitchen for explor- Metro: Waterfront top lounge with lunch/dinner beef ($$$$), plus whole-roasted ing the riches of his native buffet. DJ, dancing, miles of meat, poultry, fish. Extensive Tuscany. Pastas, roasted pork DUE SOUTH views. Two-hour lunch and wine list. D (daily). 1015 Seventh ribs, grilled fish of the day, Southern Southern hospitality three-hour dinner departures St. NW, 202.737.7700 Metro: Mt. truffled corn with parmesan, in a rustic, modern setting daily. Boarding half-hour be- Vernon Sq roasted 3-pound T-bone. along the Southeast water- fore departure. Call for prices. PROMOTION Good selection of cocktails, front. Smoked, spiced chicken 600 Water St. SW, 866.306.2469 beers, Italian wines. D (daily). wings, hot chicken sandwich, Metro: Waterfront D.C.’s ‘Nutcracker’ Is Here 1316 9th St. NW, 202.588.8954 Brunswick stew, ribs, shrimp Now in its 15th year, The Washington Ballet’s WINTER 2018 charming capital version of this holiday 18 WHERE I DECEMBER 2018

©MEDIA4ARTISTS/THEO KOSSENAS ©MEDIA4ARTISTS/THEO wheretraveler.com show wows audiences this month. WHERE WASHINGTON DECEMBER 2018 SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Sights

TUDOR PLACE 10 am-4 pm, Su noon-4 pm. FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT JEFFERSON MEMORIAL Neoclassical (1816) 10th St. & Vermont Ave. NW; MEMORIAL At the Tidal Basin, John WINTER GUIDE Georgetown mansion, home museum at 1925 Vermont Ave. A 7.5-acre landscaped park Russell Pope’s neoclassical of Martha Washington’s NW, 202.667.2667 Metro: U St.- of waterfalls and tableaux marble monument for the granddaughter, and 5.5-acre Cardozo paying homage to the 32nd third U.S. president and main gardens. National Historic president. Bronze sculptures author of the Declaration of Landmark with largest collec- ARLINGTON NATIONAL (some by George Segal) Independence. Rangers every Sights SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc tion of George Washington’s CEMETERY and bas-reliefs depicting hour daily 9:30 am-10 pm. personal items other than at Interred here, thousands of Roosevelt, wife Eleanor and Bookstore. Parking (south Mount Vernon. Garden tours veterans and government dog Fala plus scenes from the side). South end of 15th St. SW, Washington National ($3). Guided tours on the hour. personnel. Changing of Depression through WWII. 202.426.6841 Tu-Sa 10 am-4 pm, Su noon- the guards every half hour. West Potomac Park along Basin Cathedral 4 pm. $10, seniors/college Kennedy gravesites, Tomb Drive SW, 202.426.6841 Metro: LIBRARY OF CONGRESS On the city’s highest hill rises this holy house of students/military $8, students of the Unknowns, Iwo Jima Smithsonian (half a mile) World’s largest library with (5-17) $3, under 5 free. Self- Memorial, Women in Military more than 130 million worship, “a great church for national purposes,” guided garden-only tour $3. Service for America memorial, JAPANESE AMERICAN books, manuscripts, objects. 1644 31st St. NW, 202.965.0400 Arlington House. Daily 8 am- MEMORIAL TO PATRIOTISM Gutenberg Bible, Thomas as city planner Pierre L’Enfant had called it. When 5 pm. Self-guided tours free; DURING WORLD WAR II Jefferson’s founding collec- crowds gathered for the cornerstone laying, NATIONAL bus tour $13.50, seniors (65+) Sculpture of entrapped tion. “Baseball Americana” LANDMARKS $10, military/veterans with ID/ cranes honors Japanese- exploring the country’s favorite President Teddy Roosevelt took in hand the ARAN-AMERAN children (4-12) $6.75, children Americans interned during pastime, from its origins to the mallet that George Washington had used for the CIVIL WAR MEMORIAL with military $3.75, military in WWII and Japanese-American science of winning, ongoing. AND MUSEUM uniform free. 214 McNair Road, soldiers who died during M-Sa 8:30 am-4:30 pm. Tours. same rite at the U.S. Capitol. Today, the church Bronzes depict African- Arlington, Va., 877.907.8585 that war. Accessible 24 hours. Free. Jefferson Building, 10 continues to mediate and represent the peace- American Union soldiers and Metro: Arlington Cemetery Intersection of New Jersey Ave., First St. SE, 202.707.8000; James sailors; surrounding walls list Louisiana Ave. and D St. NW, Madison Memorial Building, ful coexistence of church and state. Free. 3101 200,000 etched names of sol- 202.643.8204 Metro: Union 101 Independence Ave. SE, diers and officers. M 10 am- Station 202.707.9779 Metro: Capitol South Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202.537.6200, cathedral.org 5 pm, Tu-F 10 am-6:30 pm, Sa MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. NATIONAL MEMORIAL Commemorating the life and HISTORIC HOMES FREDERICK DOUGLASS (between Upton & Tilden sts.), Tour guides with interactive work of the civil rights leader. DUMBARTON OAKS MUSEUM NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE 202.686.5807 tablet technology leading A nearly 30-foot-high statue AND GARDENS Hilltop residence of the hour-long tours. Education of King emerging from a gran- Site of the United Nations 1944 19th-century orator and aboli- MOUNT VERNON center with ongoing free ex- ite block, the Stone of Hope, beginnings, a 19th-century tionist, restored to its 1895 ap- George Washington’s river- hibits. Guided tours only, res- and inscription walls bearing manse plus Philip Johnson- pearance with original objects. side estate, with 14 rooms ervations online. “American his eloquent words. Northwest designed pavilion. Library for By guided tour only. Reserve in furnished per a 1799 inven- By Belief,” displaying the 16th corner of Tidal Basin at the Byzantine, pre-Columbian advance by calling or visiting tory. The first couple’s tomb, U.S. president’s little-known intersection of West Basin Drive and garden studies. “Outside/ website. Daily 9 am-5 pm. 1411 gardens, a blacksmith shop, immigration policies, ongo- SW & Independence Ave. SW, In: Martha Jackson Jarvis at W St. SE, 202.426.5961 Metro: reconstructed slave cabin. ing. M-Sa first tour 10 am, last 888.484.3373 Dumbarton Oaks,” the local Anacostia High-tech Ford Orientation tour 3 pm. Visitor Center M-Sa artist’s works in multiple media Center and Donald W. 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su 10:30 am- NATIONAL ARCHIVES displayed in the gardens HILLWOOD ESTATE, Reynolds Museum and 4:30 pm. $15, military $12, The “Charters of Freedom”— through Dec. 16; “Juggling the MUSEUMS AND GARDENS Education Center, featuring children (6-12) $5. 140 Rock Bill of Rights, U.S. Constitution, Middle Ages,” more than 100 Cereal heiress Marjorie “Be Washington” interactive Creek Church Road NW, Declaration of Independence. objects interpreting the time- Merriweather Post’s mansion experience, plus new film 202.829.0436 Theater with free films. less tale of a humble juggler and gardens, her czarist with 4-D effects. Check web- David M. Rubenstein Gallery, struggling to find a gift worthy treasures, jewelry, portraits. site for seasonal hours. $20, THE PRESIDENT WOODROW Visitor Orientation Plaza. of the Virgin Mary, through Cafe and gift shop. “Fabergé seniors $16, children (6-11) $9, WILSON HOUSE ”Remembering Vietnam,” Feb. 28. Gift shop. Museum: Rediscovered,” new research under 6 free. Discount pack- In the Kalorama neighbor- iconic and recently discov- Tu-Su 11:30 am-5:30 pm. casting fresh light on objects ages available. Free parking. hood, 1920s time capsule, ered records relating to 12 crit- Ten-acre formal gardens: by the storied design house, 3200 Mount Vernon Memorial former 28th president’s resi- ical episodes in the Vietnam Tu-Su 2-6 pm. Museum free. through Jan. 13. Tu-Su 10 am- Highway, Alexandria, Va., dence after the White House. War; “Records of Rights,” docu- Gardens $10, seniors $8, stu- 5 pm. $18 suggested dona- 703.780.2000 Objects owned by or given to ments and interactive exhibit dents/children (12 and under) tion, seniors $15, college stu- Wilson during his presidency. illustrating how Americans $5. Arrange in advance for dents $10, children (6-18) $5, PRESIDENT LINCOLN’S Occasional vintage game have debated citizenship, guided tours. 1703 32nd St. NW, under 6 free. Park on site, or COTTAGE nights, encouraging period free speech, voting rights 202.339.6400 take a cab. Guided, audio and Restored retreat where attire. W-Su 10 am-4 pm. and equal opportunity, both printed tours of mansion and Lincoln drafted the $10, seniors $8, students $5, ongoing. Daily 10 am-5:30 pm gardens plus “special access” Emancipation Proclamation, under 12 free. 2340 S St. NW, (Last admission at 5 pm). Gift tours. 4155 Linnean Ave. NW site deemed a national mon- 202.387.4062 shop. Free. 700 Pennsylvania

ument by Bill Clinton in 2000. COMMONS CREATIVE MOMMAERTS/FLICKR, ©ROGER Ave. NW (enter rotunda

20 WHERE I DECEMBER 2018 21 Sights SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc PULITZER PRIZE PHOTOGRAPHS GALLERY Sights

on Constitution Ave. NW), SUPREME COURT Inspirational quotes and pro- ticket required (free, but $3 NATIONAL ACADEMY 877.874.7616 Metro: Archives- The nation’s highest tribunal. files etched in glass and gran- fee for advance tickets). Show OF SCIENCES Navy Memorial Justices convene November ite with bronze sculptures tickets same day at box office Organization promoting through June in public depicting the pain and cour- 8:30 am-5 pm. Advance tickets science has exhibitions and NATIONAL MALL sessions. M-F 9 am-4:30 pm. age of more than four million at www.ticketmaster.com or Robert Berks’s larger-than- Planner Pierre L’Enfant’s grand Free. When court isn’t sitting, disabled veterans. Accessible call 800.397.7328 ($1.50 fee). 511 life Einstein memorial statue landscape. All memorials free, lectures on the half-hour from 24 hours. 150 Washington Ave. 10th St. NW, 202.347.4833 Metro: inside. M-F 8:30 am-5 pm. 24 hours. 9:30 am-3:30 pm. Cafeteria, gift SW, at 2nd and C sts. Metro: Metro Center Free. Photo ID required. U.S. Capitol—Home of the shop. Plaza-level entrance facil- Federal Center SW 2101 Constitution Ave. NW, U.S. Congress since 1800 (M-Sa itates security checks for entry. FRANCISCAN MONASTERY 202.334.2000 8:30 am-4:30 pm). See Visitor First St. NE between Maryland BASILICA OF THE NATIONAL Founded in 1899 by Centers listings for more info. Ave. & E. Capitol St., 202.479.3030 SHRINE OF THE IMMACULATE Franciscan friars, 42 acres NATIONAL BUILDING 202.226.8000 Metro: Capitol South Metro: Capitol South CONCEPTION of woods and landscaped MUSEUM Washington Monument— Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, gardens surrounding turn- Former U.S. Pension Building World’s tallest freestanding ma- U.S. HOLOCAUST the largest Roman Catholic of-the century, Byzantine- Carol Guzy/ (1887) showcasing architecture, sonry structure with elevator MEMORIAL MUSEUM basilica in North America and style church modeled after engineering, construction (closed until 2019). 15th St. NW, By architect James Ingo Freed, one of 10 largest churches in Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia. See every Pulitzer Prize–winning photograph and listen to the photographers trades and design. “Flickering 202.426.6841 Metro: Smithsonian America’s only national me- the world. Largest collection of Guided tours showing repli- reveal the stories behind some of the most famous images of all time. Treasures,” a look at Baltimore’s Lincoln Memorial—Greek- morial to genocide. More than contemporary ecclesiastical art cas of the shrines of the Holy movie theaters from 1896 to style temple with statue 900 artifacts, 70 video moni- in the world. Newly completed Land and Roman-style cata- the present through photo- by Daniel Chester French. tors, four theaters, contempo- Trinity Dome Mosaic, with parts combs: M-Sa 10 am-noon and graphs by award-winning Visitors center. Gift shop. rary art and room for reflec- blessed by Pope Francis. Daily 1-3 pm, Su 1-3 pm. Seasonal Nikon is the exclusive sponsor of the Baltimore Sun photojournalist South of Constitution Ave. NW tion. Daily 10 am-5:20 pm. Gift 7 am-6 pm. Tours: free audio garden tours. Free. Virtual tour Pulitzer Prize Photographs Gallery. Amy Davis, architectural at 23rd St., 202.426.6841 Metro: shop, cafe and library (M-F or guided M-Sa 9-11 am and online. Gift shop. 1400 Quincy artifacts and theater objects; Foggy Bottom-GWU (1 mile) 10 am-5 pm) Free. 100 Raoul 1-3 pm, Su 1:30, 2:30 and 3:30 St. NE, 202.526.6800 “PLAY WORK BUILD,” a hands- Korean War Veterans Wallenberg Place SW (14th St. pm. Cafeteria, gift store, book NEWSEUM.ORG WASHINGTON, D.C. on block play area with digital Memorial—The Pool of main entry), 202.488.0400 Metro: shop, undercroft of more than INTERNATIONAL SPY interaction allowing visitors to Remembrance, steel soldiers, Smithsonian 70 chapels and oratories. 400 MUSEUM move an entire wall of virtual granite relief. Independence Michigan Ave. NE, 202.526.8300 Artifacts like a WWII German blocks, both ongoing. M-Sa Ave. & Daniel French Drive SW, THE WHITE HOUSE Metro: Brookland-CUA Enigma cipher and an East 10 am-5 pm, Su 11 am-5 pm. 202.426.6841 Metro: Foggy Presidential residence from German camera for seeing $10, seniors/students/youth $7. Bottom-GWU (1 mile) the time of John Adams. ELMON-PAL WOMEN through walls. Exhibits on Building tours daily at 11:30 am, World War II Memorial— Photo opps from north and EQUALITY NATIONAL spy rings of World War II, Cold 12:30 pm, 1:30 pm. Cafe and gift Neoclassical plaza dedicated south gates. Self-guided pub- MONUMENT War spy games, intel training. shop. 401 F St. NW, 202.272.2448 to 400,000 American lives lic tour requests must be sub- Now a feminist museum and “Operation Spy,” guests as- Metro: Judiciary Square lost. 17th St. NW between mitted through a member library, Capitol Hill’s oldest suming the role of an agent Millennium Constitution & Independence of Congress at least 21 days house (1798, with parts dating in a one-hour mission inside NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC aves., 202.426.6841 Metro: ahead. Tours Tu-Th 7:30 am- to 1680), the home of suffra- the museum. “Spy in the MUSEUM Smithsonian (five blocks) 11:30 am, F-Sa 7:30 am- gette Alice Paul, drafter of the City,” guests using a GPS- Stage At the Society’s HQ, galleries Vietnam Veterans 1:30 pm. See Visitor Centers Equal Rights Amendment. enabled tablet to uncover plus Explorers Hall for exhibits, Memorial—Maya Lin’s me- listing for more information. Permanent galleries on suf- espionage-related secrets A celebration of the human spirit lectures. “Titanic: The Untold morial with more than 58,000 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, frage origins and the contem- outside the museum. Hours Story,” the recently declassi- names of dead or missing 202.456.7041 Metro: McPherson porary cause. W-Su 9 am- vary. Check website for cur- fied tale about a secret Cold soldiers. Sculptures honoring Sq or Farragut West 5 pm. Tours 9:30 am, 11 am, rent schedule. $21.95, seniors/ War mission and the 1985 soldiers, nurses. Constitution 2 pm and 3:30 pm. ADA military/intelligence (with ID) discovery of the famous ship; Ave. NW between 21st & 22nd POINTS OF INTEREST accessible. Gift shop. Free. $15.95, children 7-11 $14.95, “Tomb of Christ,” immersive sts., 202.426.6841 Metro: Foggy AIR FORCE MEMORIAL Entrance on 2nd St. next to under 6 free. Spy store. 800 3-D exhibit “transporting” Bottom-GWU (1 mile) Free performances by the Hart Senate Office Building. F St. NW, 202.393.7798 Metro: visitors to Jerusalem for an U.S. Air Force Band and 2nd St. NE & Constitution Ave. Gallery Pl-Chinatown in-depth look at this sacred PENTAGON Honor Guard Drill Team plus NE, 202.546.1210 Metro: Union structure, both ongoing. Daily U.S. Dept. of Defense HQ and wreath-laying ceremonies. Station MADAME TUSSAUDS 10 am-6 pm. $15, seniors/mil- nerve center for command See schedule online. One Touchable wax figures and Free performances itary/students $12, kids (5-12) and control. On-site memorial Air Force Memorial Drive, OR EARE photo opps with The Beatles, every day at 6 p.m. $10, under 5 free. 3-D movie (accessible 24 hours) dedi- Arlington, Va., 703.979.0674 Active stage and site of Madonna, Babe Ruth, Stephen $7. Gift shop. 1145 17th St. NW, No tickets required* cated to 184 lives lost there Lincoln’s April 14, 1865 assassi- Colbert, the Duke and Duchess *Unless noted otherwise 202.857.7700 Metro: Farragut in the 9/11 attack. Tours M-Th AMERICAN VETERANS nation by John Wilkes Booth. of Cambridge, Marilyn Monroe, North or Farragut West 10 am-4 pm, F noon-4 pm. DISABLED FOR LIFE Museum artifacts like Lincoln’s Justin Bieber, Taylor Swift. Comedy at the Kennedy Center Millennium Stage Presenting Sponsor: Brought to you by December 4–31 (No tours on federal holidays). MEMORIAL clothing and Booth’s murder Presidents Gallery with all U.S. Presenting Sponsor NATIONAL INVENTORS HALL Reserve online at least two Landscape architect Michael weapon, a derringer pistol. presidents plus first ladies. Theater Lab OF FAME AND MUSEUM weeks prior. Group tours. Vergason’s star-shaped Petersen House museum and Hours vary. Check website for In the U.S. Patent and Free. Army Navy Drive & Fern fountain with eternal flame high-tech Center for Education updated schedule. $22, children Trademark Office, museum Groups call (202) 416-8400. St., Arlington, Va., 703.697.1776 book-ended by a grove of and Leadership. Theater and (4-12) $17.50. 1025 F St. NW (corner capturing America’s imagi- Kennedy-Center.org For all other ticket-related customer service inquiries, Metro: Pentagon trees honoring men and museum open daily 9 am- of 10th & F sts.), 866.823.9565 native spirit through exhibits (202) 467-4600 call the Advance Sales Box Office at (202) 416-8540. women injured in combat. 4:30 pm. Free admission but Metro: Metro Center on patent and trademark

22 WHERE I DECEMBER 2018 23 Sights SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Sights systems. Interactive gallery tour at 3:45 pm. Closed Jan. AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM The Enola Gay (first to drop Ave. NW, 202.633.1000 Metro: ANACOSTIA COMMUNITY NATIONAL POSTAL MUSEUM NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM displaying 500-plus inventors 1. $5, children (ages 5-12) World’s largest collection of an atomic bomb) and space Smithsonian MUSEUM Former main post office, now Exhibits tracking the natural and their stories, plus a 1965 $3, under 5 free. 105-107 S. aircraft and space vehicles shuttle Discovery. IMAX theat- Devoted to activism, urban museum of artifacts multimedia world since prehistoric time. Ford Mustang merged with Fairfax St., Alexandria, Va., (Lindbergh’s Spirit of St. er, flight simulations (fee). AMERICAN INDIAN MUSEUM communities and African- stations and exhibits. “John In , taxidermic a 2015 model showing how 703.746.3852 Louis, Bell X-1). Apollo Lunar Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Free. Curvilinear building of gold- American heritage. “Your Lennon: The Green Album,” the African elephant in a replica inventions drive technology. Module and Enterprise studio IMAX tickets: $9, seniors $8, en-hued limestone facing Community, Your Story: musician’s childhood stamp Angolan habitat. Hall of Group tours upon request. OAN AREN model from “Star Trek” TV children (2-12) $7.50. Theater the rising sun in keeping with Celebrating Five Decades of collection containing more than Geology, Gems and Minerals Gift shop. M-F 10 am-5 pm, North America’s oldest botanic series. (Beginning this month, info: 866.868.7774. Parking Native American traditions. the Anacostia Community 500 stamps, through Feb. 3. (Hope Diamond). Butterfly Sa 11 am-3 pm. Free. 600 garden. Art Deco-era con- galleries begin to close for ($15) or Fairfax Connector No. Tribal exhibitions. Interactive Museum, 1967-2017,” sig- Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Free. Pavilion ($6, $5.50 seniors, Dulany St., Alexandria, Va., servatory, jungle area, orchid renovation. Check website for 983 between Dulles Airport imagiNATIONS Activity Center nature projects from past Special workshops, welcome $5 children; free, tickets re- 571.272.0095 house. Rotating exhibitions. openings/closures.) Lockheed and museum. 14390 Air and with hands-on projects like displays, through Jan. 6. “A center, gift shop and post quired). “Outbreak: Epidemics “Seasons Greenings,” model Martin IMAX Theater and Albert Space Museum Parkway, weaving a giant basket. “Trail Right to the City,” exploring office. 2 Massachusetts Ave. NE, in a Connected World,” a NEWSEUM train and set including iconic Einstein Planetarium daily Chantilly, Va., 202.633.1000 of Tears: A Story of Cherokee the history of D.C.’s changing 202.633.1000 Metro: Union Station 4,250-sq.-ft. exhibit exploring Venue lauding the First D.C. buildings, made of natural from 10:30 am. Pulseworks VR Removal,” an unflinching look neighborhoods, ongoing. the causes and struggles to Amendment. Sections of the materials, through Jan. 1. Daily Transporter ($), virtual real- AMERAN OR MEM at the reality of this disturbing Daily 10 am-5 pm. 1901 Fort NATIONAL ZOO contain the spread of deadly Berlin Wall and historic front 10 am-5 pm. Free. 100 Maryland ity ride. Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. National repository of cultural, chapter in American history, Place SE, 202.633.4820 Founded in 1889, a 163-acre zoo diseases around the world, pages from the Civil War, Ave. SW, 202.225.8333 Metro: Tours 10:30 am and 1 pm. scientific and technological from the Cherokee perspec- with more than 2,000 animals ongoing. Daily 10 am.- plus 15 theaters and galleries Federal Center SW Free. IMAX and planetarium heritage. Thomas Jefferson’s tive; “Americans,” exploring THE CASTLE including giant pandas Tian 5:30 pm. Free. IMAX and 130 interactive stations. shows: $9, seniors $8, children desk, Julia Child’s kitchen, how American Indians are The first Smithsonian building Tian and Mei Xiang and their theater ($8, seniors/chil- Pulitzer-Prize photo winners, NAONAL AROREM $7.50 (prices higher for new restored Dorothy’s ruby woven into the nation’s iden- with info center, cafe, James cub Bei Bei. Asia Trail with giant dren $6.50). Cafe and gift 9/11 memorial gallery, daily A 446-acre site with special- releases). Gift shop. Food court. slippers back on view. The Star- tity from popular culture to Smithson’s crypt and samples sloths. American Trail with sea shop. Constitution Ave. at displays of front pages from ty gardens, the former U.S. 6th St. & Independence Ave. SW, Spangled Banner gallery hold- street names and beyond, from the collection and ex- otters. Solar-powered carousel 10th St. NW, 202.633.1000 every U.S. state. New media Capitol columns, Arbor House 202.633.2214 Metro: L’Enfant Plaza ing the restored flag. Ongoing: both ongoing. Daily 10 am- hibits. Daily 8:30 am-5:30 pm, ($3). Check website for seasonal Metro: Federal Triangle or gallery tracing the digital news Gift Shop and the National “The First Ladies,” gowns and 5:30 pm. Free. Groups reserve Haupt Garden (south side) hours. Free entry; parking Smithsonian revolution. “Pictures of the Bonsai & Penjing Museum (F-M AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM memorabilia from presidencies timed entry. Gift shops, two daily 6:30 am-dusk. Free. 1000 $22. 3001 Connecticut Ave. NW, Year,” decades of award- 10 am-4 pm). Visitor Center AR-A ENER past. Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Free. theaters, Mitsitam Cafe. 4th Jefferson Drive SW, 202.633.1000 202.673.4888 Metro: Cleveland VISITOR CENTERS winning photos, ongoing. F-M 8 am-4:30 pm. Grounds National Air and Space Gift shops, ice cream parlor, St. & Independence Ave. SW, Metro: Smithsonian Park (downhill to zoo) or Woodley D.C. TOURIST M-Sa 9 am-5pm, Su 10 am- F-M 8 am-5 pm. Free. Visit by Museum’s hangar-like facility cafeteria. 14th St. & Constitution 202.633.1000 Metro: L’Enfant Park-Zoo (uphill to zoo) INFORMATION CENTER 5 pm. $24.95, seniors $19.95, car recommended. 3501 New displaying 160-plus aircraft. Plaza At the D.C. Chamber of children (7-18) $14.95, ages 6 York Ave. NE, 202.245.2726 Commerce, tour advice, bro- and under/museum members chures, city guides and maps. free. Discounts for military/stu- WANON AROR M-F 8:30 am-5:30 pm. Closed dents with ID. 555 Pennsylvania At the south end of Disco er the Cradle of the weekends. 506 9th St. NW at E St., Ave. NW, 888.639.7386 Metro: Georgetown, a bustling Emancipation Proclamation 202.347.7201 Metro: Gallery Place Archives-Navy Memorial waterfront zone with a NATIONAL ARCHIVES MUSEUM boardwalk, restaurants, D.C.’s “Best Museum off the Mall” U.S. CAPITOL RO REE PAR largest outdoor ice skating (Washington City Paper 2017, 2018) VISITOR CENTER One of the country’s earliest, rink in winter and views of TripAdvisor Hall of Fame Entry to the U.S. Capitol with urban national parks, a 2,000- Key Bridge and the Kennedy Certificate of Excellence exhibits, artifacts, interactive acre wooded oasis following Center. 202.295.5007 Guided tours daily, kiosks. M-Sa 8:30 am-4:30 pm. its namesake waterway 362 days a year. Guided one-hour Capitol through the heart of the city. MONAN tours (M-Sa 8:50 am-3:20 pm) LincolnCottage.com Shady paved trails drawing NON begin with a 13-minute film. 202.829.0436 bikers, jogger, skaters. Also AFRICAN AMERICAN Free. Admission to the House tennis courts, golf course, sta- OR AN LRE PRESIDENT LINCOLN’S COTTAGE or Senate galleries issued by a bles and planetarium/nature MUSEUM Entrance at 140 Rock Creek Church Rd NW constituent’s representative center (W-Su, 9 am-5 pm) with LEED edifice wrapped in Washington DC 20011 or senator. Some same-day ranger-led tours. Free (fees for metal panels evoking a passes at the CVC informa- some activities). Nature Center Yoruban crown and iron- tion desks. Below the East and Planetarium, 5200 Glover work crafted by “invisible” Plaza of the Capitol between Road NW, 202.895.6070 slaves. Harriet Tubman’s Constitution & Independence hymnal, Emmett Till’s cas- aves., 202.226.8000 Metro: ALER-LEAEAER ket, Chuck Berry’s Cadillac. Capitol South APOEAR MEM Oprah Winfrey Theater, Edward Stabler’s 1792 Contemplative Court with WHITE HOUSE pharmacy, serving George waterfall. Cafe. Timed-entry VISITOR CENTER Washington, Robert E. Lee passes required. Reserve Interactive exhibits, photos and James Monroe. Closed ahead online. Some same-day and videos about the famed in 1933 and preserved as a passes )four per visitor) online residence and its occupants. museum. Original ingredi- daily and at Visitor Services CONSTITUTION AVENUE BETWEEN Free. Gift shop. Daily 7:30 am- ents, drug mills, pill rollers, (one per visitor) weekdays. 4 pm. 1450 Pennsylvania documents on display. Call to Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Free. 7TH & 9TH STREETS NW Ave. NW, 202.208.1631 Metro: reserve guided tour. W-Sa 1400 Constitution Ave. NW, Farragut West 11 am-4 pm, Su 1-4 pm. Last 844.750.3012 archives.gov/museum

24 WHERE I DECEMBER 2018 25 WINTER GUIDE Scene SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Scene

Theater J stars. State-of-the-art sound The Fortunes Found, “Anything Goes,” the Cole Arts Center. 1333 H St. NE, Located in the city’s Edlavitch Jewish system, multilevel tiers, bars. Dec. 28. The Wharf, 33 Pearl Porter classic about a lovelorn 202.399.7993 Dark Star Orchestra, Dec. 1; St. SW, 202.380.9620 Metro: sailor determined to win the Community Center, this theater produces Pentatonix, Dec. 2-3; Lindsey Waterfront love of a betrothed heiress, NATIONAL THEATRE Stirling, Dec. 14; O.A.R., Dec. 15. through Dec. 23; “Indecent,” Landmark playhouse opened thought-provoking plays and musicals that 901 Wharf St. SW, 202.888.0020 RECREATION Paula Vogel’s behind-the- in 1835, now with Broadway speak to the Jewish cultural legacy. From Metro: Waterfront ESCAPE ROOM LIVE scenes tale of an explosive shows, musicals. “Beautiful,” the Teams of players testing 1923 play, through Dec. 30. Tony Award-winning musical Dec. 7 to 30, the company travels to nearby BLACK CAT their wits to escape locked 1101 6th St. SW, 202.488.3300 about Carole King’s life and Gala Hispanic Theatre for its production of Booking indie rockers for the rooms filled with clues, riddles Metro: Waterfront career, through Dec. 30. upstairs Mainstage and the and red herrings (in 45 min- 1321 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, “Talley’s Folly,” Aaron Posner’s heart-stirring un- smaller downstairs Backstage utes). Themes from spies to FOLGER THEATRE 202.628.6161 Metro: Metro Center likely romance between a middle-aged Jewish (often local bands). Also DJ mummies. $28. Reservations At Folger Shakespeare Library, and theme nights, pinball required. 2300 Wisconsin Ave. an Elizabethan-style theater SHAKESPEARE THEATRE accountant and a spinster from a bigoted machines, a bar and a cafe NW, 800.616.4880; 814 King presenting classic plays and COMPANY with vegan options. Soccer St., 2nd floor, Alexandria, Va., concerts. “King John,” Aaron Led by artistic director Michael Protestant family in 1944 Missouri. From $35. Mommy, Dec. 1; JD McPherson, 800.616.4880; 3345 M St. NW, Posner directs this epic power Kahn, this company has two 1529 16th St. NW, 202.777.3210, theaterj.org Dec. 6; Harry & The Potters, 800.616.4880 struggle surrounding the Bard’s downtown stages for works Dec. 14; Fuzzqueen, Dec. 18; earliest king, through Dec. 2. by the Bard and other play- Wanted Man, Dec. 20; Amateur SPORTS 201 E. Capitol St. SE, 202.544.7077 wrights. “An Inspector Calls,” on Plastic, Dec. 26. 1811 14th WASHINGTON CAPITALS Metro: Capitol South a mysterious inspector inves- BARS & LOUNGES with seasonal drinks and CONCERTS & OPERA Trevor Lawrence Jr., Dec. 31. St. NW, 202.667.4490 Metro: U St- At Capital One Arena, D.C.’s tigating a murder shakes up 2 BIRDS 1 STONE amuse-bouches, spirits library Select shows listed; see venue Free shows daily (6 pm) on Cardozo Stanley Cup-winning NHL FORD’S THEATRE a well-to-do family, through Under Doi Moi restaurant, an (a la carte menu) and terrace. websites for full schedules. Millennium Stage. Also cafe, team powering the puck with Historic venue where Lincoln Dec. 23. Harman, 610 F St. NW, intimate cocktail den with Tu-Th 5 pm-12:30 am, F-Sa till restaurant, gift shops, free BLUES ALLEY star captain Alex Ovechkin. was assassinated. On-site mu- 202.547.1122 Metro: Gallery six selections that rotate 1:30 am. 124 Blagden Alley NW, CAPITAL ONE ARENA tours and roof terrace. 2700 F St. Tucked in a Georgetown alley, Anaheim Ducks, Dec. 2; seum opens one hour before Pl-Chinatown ; Lansburgh, 450 regularly. Also bar bites like 202.316.9396. Metro: Mt. Vernon Penn Quarter/downtown NW, 202.467.4600 Metro: Foggy legendary jazz supper club Detroit Red Wings, Dec. 11; curtain (and for daytime visits). Seventh St. NW, 202.547.1122 Vietnamese dumplings from Sq-Convention Center arena for sports (NBA Wizards, Bottom-GWU (free shuttle to/ showcasing artists like Dizzy Buffalo Sabres, 15; Pittsburgh “A Christmas Carol,” the holi- Metro: Gallery Pl-Chinatown upstairs. T-Th 6 pm-12:15 am, NHL Capitals) and shows. from venue) Gillespie and Charlie Byrd since Penguins, Dec. 19; Buffalo day classic about three ghosts F-Sa 6 pm-1:15 am. 1800 14th St. RI RA IRISH PUB Dave Matthews Band, 1965. Stacey Kent, Dec. 1-2; Sabres, Dec. 21; Caroline who take the miserly Ebenezer SIGNATURE THEATRE NW (entrance on S St.) Metro: Decor from Ireland and live Dec. 13; Mumford & Sons, WOLF TRAP Freddy Cole, Dec. 6-9; The Hurricanse, Dec. 27; Nashville Scrooge on a journey of trans- Contemporary plays and U St-Cardozo band most nights contributing Dec. 14; Trans-Siberian America’s only national park National Cathedral Band Predators, Dec. 31. Capital One formation, through Dec. 30. musicals; winner of the 2009 a lively atmosphere for pub Orchestra “The Ghosts of for the performing arts. Music “Celebrates Christmas,” Dec. 10; Arena, 601 F St. NW, 202.628.3200 511 10th St. NW, 202.347.4833 Regional Theater Tony Award. BARMINI fare. Guinness, whiskey bar. Christmas Eve,” Dec. 23. 601 and dance at Filene Center Dave Detwiler & The White Metro: Gallery Pl-Chinatown Metro: Metro Center “Billy Elliot,” heartwarming Adjoining his experimental M-Th 11 am-2 am, F till 3 am, F St. NW, 202.628.3200 Metro: with open-air pavilion, lawn for House Band, Dec. 17; Cyrus musical about an 11-year-old Minibar, celeb chef José Sa 10 am-3am, Su 10 am-2 am. Gallery Pl-Chinatown picnicking with food brought Chestnut “Tis the Season,” WASHINGTON REDSKINS KENNEDY CENTER boy who dreams of being a Andrés’ sleek cocktail spot with 3125 M St. NW, 202.751.2111 or purchased there. Wolf Trap Dec. 26-30. 1073 Wisconsin Ave. Winner of Super Bowls XVII, A living memorial to John F. ballet dancer, through Jan. 6. 100-plus original creations KENNEDY CENTER Holiday Sing-A-Long, Dec. 1. NW, 202.337.4141 XXII and XXVI, D.C.’s NFL team Kennedy. The Second City’s 4200 Campbell Ave., Arlington, and fresh takes on classics. SHELLY’S BACK ROOM A living memorial to John F. 1551 Trap Road, Vienna, Va., playing at its 79,000-seat stadi- “Love, Factually,” a satire of the Va., 703.820.9771 Reservations recommended. For cigar aficionados, a casual Kennedy. NPR’s A Jazz Piano 703.255.1900 Metro: West Falls MADAM’S ORGAN um in the Maryland suburbs. popular holiday film, Dec. 4- Tu-Sa from 5:30 pm. 501 9th St. but elegant tavern with air- Christmas, Dec. 1; National Church (then Metro bus to venue) Find live music nightly at this New York Giants, Dec. 9; 31; “Miss Saigon,” a new pro- STUDIO THEATRE NW, 202.393.4451 Metro: Archives ventilation system. Lunch, Symphony Orchestra: Noseda rowdy Adams Morgan bar Philadelphia Eagles, Dec. 30. duction of the award-winning Acclaimed venue for bold or Gallery Pl-Chinatown dinner and late-night menus conducts Mahler’s First MUSIC CLUBS where redheads get a half- FedEx Field, 1600 FedEx Way, musical by the creators of “Les plays. “Cry It Out,” comedy plus premium cigars and rare Symphony, Dec. 6-9; The Select shows listed; see venue price drink special. Pool tables, Landover, Md., 301.276.6000 Miserables,” Dec. 12-Jan. 13; about new parents from BLUEJACKET whiskeys. M-Th 11:30 am-2 am, Washington Chorus presents websites for full schedules. karaoke and rooftop bar. One “The Play That Goes Wrong,” a vastly different backgrounds In a 1919 U.S. Navy factory, a F 11:30 am-3 am, Sa noon-3 am, “A Candlelight Christmas, Nite Stand (reggae, funk, R&B) WASHINGTON WIZARDS comedic romp from London, bonding over baby monitors buzzing brewery headed by Su noon-1 am. 1331 F St. NW, Dec. 7-22; NSO Pops: A Holiday 9:30 CLUB every Monday, Clusterfunk D.C.’s NBA team on its home Dec. 18-Jan. 6. Free shows and having it all, through Greg Engert. Traditional tech- 202.737.3003 Metro: Metro Center Pops! Under the Misteltoe with Frequent winner of nightclub Tuesday, The Human Country court. Brooklyn Nets, Dec. 1; daily (6 pm) on Millennium Dec. 16. 1501 14th St. NW, niques combined with experi- Ashley Brown, Dec. 14-15; of the year. Visit the Back Bar Jukebox country music W, The Boston Celtics, Dec. 12; Stage. Also cafe, restaurant, gift 202.332.3300 Metro: Dupont mentation produce a rotating COMEDY Washington National Opera: early for first entry into shows. Johnny Artis Band Th. M-Th, Su Los Angeles Lakers, Dec. shops, free tours and roof ter- Circle (five blocks) selection of 20 beers and five THE CAPITOL STEPS Holiday Family Opera: “The Kurt Vile & The Violators, Dec. 1; 5 pm-2 am, F-Sa till 3 am. 2461 16; Phoenix Suns, Dec. 22; race. 2700 F St. NW, 202.467.4600 cask ales. On-site bar, tasting Congressional staffers Lion, the Unicorn, and Minzy (of 2NE1), Dec. 2; Gang 18th St. NW, 202.667.5370 Chicago Bulls, Dec. 28; Metro: Foggy Bottom-GWU (free WARNER THEATRE room, shop and Arsenal res- satirizing politics and Me,” Dec. 14-16; Meshell of Youths, Dec. 10; Thievery Charlotte Hornets, Dec. 29. shuttle to/from venue) Performances of theater, taurant. Su-Th 11 am-1 am, F-Sa life inside the Beltway. Ndegeocello: No More Water/ Corporation, Dec. 13-14; Cat PEARL STREET WAREHOUSE Capital One Arena, 601 F St. NW, comedy and dance in an till 2 am. Tours and tastings Shows at Ronald Reagan The Fire Next Time: The Power, Dec. 16; The Oh Hellos Intimate space for established 202.628.3200. Metro: Gallery Pl- MOSAIC THEATER COMPANY ornate 1924 movie palace. F-Sa by reservation ($29-$35). Building Amphitheater Gospel According to James Christmas Extravaganza, and emerging rock, country, Chinatown Presenting thought-provok- The Washington Ballet’s 300 Tingey St. SE, 202.524.4862 and International Trade Baldwin, Dec. 16; The Choral Dec. 19; Snail Mail, Dec. 21; folk, soul, bluegrass and R&B ing works that grapple with Nutcracker, Dec. 1-28. 513 13th Metro: Navy Yard Center. F-Sa at 7:30 pm. $36. Arts Society of Washington Gwar, Dec. 29. 815 V St. NW, acts. American diner fare. THEATER & DANCE social and political issues. “Oh, St. NW, 202.783.4000 Metro: 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, presents Songs of the Season: 202.265.0930 Metro: U St-Cardozo An Evening with Patterson ARENA STAGE God,” psychotherapist and Metro Center COLUMBIA ROOM 202.312.1555 Metro: Federal Christmas with Choral Arts, Hood of Drive-By Truckers, Classic and contemporary pro- single mother of an autistic Spirits guru Derek Brown’s Triangle Dec. 16-24; NSO: Handel’s THE ANTHEM Dec. 6-7; Chopteeth, Dec. 8; ductions in an architecturally child gets a new heaven-sent acclaimed cocktail bar, fea- “Messiah,” Dec. 20-23; A Jazz Concert venue on The Wharf projectHERA Presents: Women striking complex by the water. patient,” Dec. 12-Jan. 13. turing three different spaces. New Year’s Eve: Patti Austin’s waterfront redevelopment for Who Rock: The 90’s, Dec. 9; The Catwalk Cafe features dishes Based at the Atlas Performing

Tasting room (by reservation) Bebop Hip Hop Ella featuring big-name rock/pop and indie J THEATER COURTESY Nighthawks, Dec. 21; Eli Lev & inspired by current shows.

26 WHERE I DECEMBER 2018 27 Art SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Art

Arthur M. Sackler Gallery NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART/ Days,” the first Sunday of each displays; “A Right to the City,” NATIONAL MUSEUM OF This recently remodeled Smithsonian site con- EAST BUILDING month. Mezzanine Cafe with exploring the history of D.C.’s AFRICAN ART I.M. Pei-designed museum soups, salads, sandwiches. changing neighborhoods, Sub-Saharan African art: nected to the Freer Gallery specializes in show- holds modern and contempo- M-F 11 am-2 pm. New York both ongoing. Daily 10 am- masks, textiles, regalia, fur- rary American and European Ave. & 13th St. NW, 202.783.5000 5 pm. 1901 Fort Place SE, niture, ceramics. “Good As casing Asian and Near Eastern artworks span- paintings, sculptures, prints Metro: Metro Center 202.633.4820 Gold: Fashioning Senegalese ning some 6,000 years. This month, the muse- by Matisse, Stella, Warhol Women,” in a redesigned and Picasso. Renovated with THE PHILLIPS COLLECTION ARTHUR M. SACKLER first-floor space, glittering um turns its attention to the 20th century with more space, skylight tower The country’s first museum GALLERY collection of the country’s the exhibition, “Japan Modern.” Pulled from a galleries highlighting works by of modern art (1921) provides Recently reopened space jewelry past and present Alexander Calder, Mark Rothko. an intimate setting for a re- featuring a number of newly and how the pieces were major new acquisition, about 70 photographs Roof terrace with sculptures nowned collection: Renoir, installed collections. In a used to express complex by groundbreaking photographers explore and views of the Capitol. Cézanne, Bonnard, Matisse, dramatic underground notions of beauty, ongoing. Villareal LED passage to West Daumier, Manet, El Greco, building, Asian and Near Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Gift how Japan’s artists are adapting to a rapidly Building. “Sense of Humor,” Miró, Monet, O’Keeffe and Eastern artworks spanning shop. 950 Independence highlighting comedic works Picasso. Laib Wax Room, 6,000 years. “Japan Modern: Ave. SW, 202.633.4600 Metro: changing country. Free. 1050 Independence Ave. through the ages from the beeswax-lined niche ac- Photography from the Gloria Smithsonian NW, 202.633.1000, freersackler.si.edu Renaissance to today, through commodating two visitors Katz and Willard Huyck Jan. 6; “Rachel Whiteread,” the at a time by Wolfgang Laib. Collection,” pictures dating NATIONAL PORTRAIT

CER ER HOEI TOT INTERFCE TOT HOEI INTERFCE ER CER TOT HOEI ER CER first comprehensive survey of “Nordic Impressions,” repre- from the 1880s to 2015 trac- GALLERY the influential British sculptor’s senting the works of 53 artists ing the development of this Famed visages throughout ALTERNATIVE SPACES um, galleries. Free. Most open Georgetown space with musicians, storytellers. W-Sa work, through Jan. 13. M-Sa spanning 200 years of Nordic medium in the Land of the U.S. history. Only complete ANACOSTIA ARTS CENTER daily 10 am-6 pm, Th 10 am- sculpture garden. Tu-Sa noon- noon-6 pm. 1404 P St. NW, 10 am-5 pm, Su 11 am-6 pm. art, through Jan. 13. Tu-Sa Rising Sun, through Jan. 24. collection of presidential ORI T ND IRD HC ND RCHED THROH THE THE THROH RCHED ND HC IRD ND T ORI THE THROH RCHED ND HC IRD ND T ORI Nonprofit with a cafe, theater, 9 pm. Artist-led tours 1 pm. 5 pm. 1675 Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202.483.1102 Free. Gift shop and cafes. 10 am-5 pm, Th until 8:30 pm, Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Gift portraits outside the White boutiques, several art gal- 105 N. Union St., Alexandria, 202.337.7970 Constitution Ave. NW between Su noon-7 pm. Special exhibi- shop. 1050 Independence House. “Unseen: Our Past in leries. Tu-Sa 10 am-7 pm, Su Va., 703.838.4565 ZENITH 3rd & 4th sts., 202.737.4215 Metro: tion, weekend admission: $12. Ave. SW, 202.633.1000 Metro: a New Light, Ken Gonzales- 10 am-3 pm. Some events DTR MODERN GALLERIES Gallery celebrating 40 years Archives-Navy Memorial Permanent collection free Smithsonian Day and Titus Kaphar,” free. 1231 Good Hope Road SE, WASHINGTON CONVENTION In Georgetown, contem- of exhibitions, showing weekdays with suggested highlighting under- and 202.631.6291 CENTER porary and 20th-century whimsical, figurative work NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART/ donation. Gift shop. 21st & Q FREER GALLERY misrepresented minorities in Major fine art collection masters from a privately held in all media, some sited in a WEST BUILDING sts. NW, 202.387.2151 Metro: Recently reopened fea- portraiture; “One Year: 1968, ARLINGTON ARTS CENTER of more than 130 works collection of works by artists sculpture garden in former One of the world’s finest Dupont Circle (North) turing reimagined spaces An American Odyssey,” look- For more than 40 years, a installed throughout like Picasso, Dali, Botero, Mars, swimming pool, where varied collections of American for displaying Eastern and ing back at an important year venue addressing issues center. Free public tours at Warhol, Basquiat, Hirst. Mon.- works create a “wonderland.” and European paintings SMITHSONIAN South Asian and Islamic in history, when the museum promoting social change. 6:30 pm (schedule online). Sat. 11 a.m.-7 p.m., Sun. noon- W-Sa noon-6 pm or by ap- and sculpture dating from INSTITUTION art in an Italian-style villa. opened, the Civil Rights Act Open studios and solo Reservations required via 7 p.m. 2820 Pennsylvania Ave. pointment. 1429 Iris St. NW, the 13th century, including AMERICAN ART MUSEUM James McNeill Whistler’s was signed and the Vietnam shows. W-Su noon-5 pm. Free. email community@eventsdc. NW, 202.338.0625 202.783.2963 “Ginevra de’ Benci,” this National collections from “The Peacock Room Comes War reached a turning point, 3550 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, com or phone 202.249.3200. hemisphere’s only da Vinci folk art to LED installations to America” restored to its both ongoing. Daily 11:30 am- Va., 703.248.6800 Metro: Va. 801 Mount Vernon Place NW, HEMPHILL FINE ARTS ART MUSEUMS painting. “Gordon Parks: and one gallery dedicated original 1908 appearance. 7 pm. Gift shop, cafe. Eighth & Square-GMU 202.249.3000 Celebrating 20-plus years AMERICAN UNIVERSITY The New Tide, 1940-1950,” to video and time-based Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Films, F sts. NW, 202.633.1000 Metro: showing contemporary and MUSEUM AT THE KATZEN 150 photographs and other artwork. “Between Worlds: gift shop. Jefferson Drive and Gallery Pl-Chinatown EERIT OF THE FREER ER OF RT ND THE RTHR RTHR THE ND RT OF ER FREER THE OF EERIT RTHR THE ND RT OF ER FREER THE OF EERIT EMBASSY OF AUSTRALIA WASHINGTON SCULPTORS historically significant artists Dramatic building with muse- materials illustrating his influ- The Art of Bill Traylor,” 155 of 12th St. SW, 202.633.1000 Metro: Juried shows of works by GROUP like Caldwell and late “father um and performance spaces ences, through Feb. 18. M-Sa the self-taught artist’s works Smithsonian RENWICK GALLERY artists with Down Under Since 1984, nonprofit group figures” Jacob Kainen and of American University. 10 am-5 pm, Su 11 am-6 pm. illustrating his first-hand view Revamped Second Empire- connections. M-F 10 am-2 pm. with 400 members (artists, Willem de Looper. Tu-Sa Three floors of changing Free. Gift shop, cafés, sculp- of history, from slavery to HIRSHHORN MUSEUM AND style museum across from

Free. Show photo I.D. Also collectors, curators) high- 10 am-5 pm. 1515 14th St. NW, exhibitions by Washington FRO IFT RTI ND RCHE FRO RINT IFT IER RTI ND RCHE ETIN RINT IER ETIN ture garden. Constitution Ave. Reconstruction and the dawn SCULPTURE GARDEN White House designed by films. 1601 Massachusetts Ave. lighting sculptural works. 202.234.5601 and international artists. NW between 4th & 7th sts., of the Civil Rights Movement, Designed by Gordon James Renwick Jr. in 1859 NW, 202.797.3000 Exhibits at various locations. Tu-Su 11 am-4 pm. Free. Gift 202.737.4215 Metro: Archives- ongoing. Daily 11:30 am-7 pm Bunshaft, doughnut-shaped and rescued by Jacqueline Check website for details, MARSHA MATEYKA shop and cafe. Ward Circle, Navy Memorial Gift shop. Kogod Courtyard building holds Joseph H. Kennedy. American fine EMBASSY OF CANADA 202.686.8696 In a Dupont Circle town 4400 Massachusetts Ave. NW, with Norman Foster-designed Hirshhorn’s gift collection crafts, plus modern works. In an important Pennsylvania house, contemporary art 202.885.1300 NATIONAL MUSEUM OF canopy, free Wi-Fi and a cafe plus later acquisitions. Works “Disrupting Craft: Renwick Ave. NW structure across from ART GALLERIES since 1983. Representing Jim WOMEN IN THE ARTS until 6:30 pm. 8th & F sts. NW, by Dubuffet, Picasso, Rothko, Invitational 2018,” four artists National Gallery of Art and ADAH ROSE GALLERY Sanborn, Sam Gilliam, Jae Ko, ARTECHOUSE Pioneering museum dedicat- 202.633.1000 Metro: Gallery Pl- Calder, Warhol and current challenging conventional just down the street from the Intimate gallery for contem- Kitty Klaidman, Athena Tacha, Gallery space for for- ed to female artists with 4,500- Chinatown stars. “Sean Scully: Landline,” ideas about craft, through U.S. Capitol, exhibitions on porary regional art, espe- William T. Wiley and estates ward-thinking computerized, plus works by, among others, the artist’s watercolors, oils May 5; “No Spectators: The the history and fine arts of cially text-based projects. of Nathan Oliveira and Gene immersive art exhibitions. Mary Cassatt, Frida Kahlo and ANACOSTIA COMMUNITY and sculptures transforming Art of Burning Man,” large- Canada. Free. M-F 9 am- Openings often with live Davis. Th 11 am-5 pm, other Daily 10 am-5 pm; 5:30-10 pm Alma Thomas. “Rodarte,” more MUSEUM the museum’s second-level scale works from the annual 5 pm. 501 Pennsylvania Ave. music. Hours vary. Check days by appt. 2012 R St. NW, and 11 pm (ages 21 and over than 90 complete outfits pre- Devoted to activism, urban inner circle galleries, ongoing. boho gathering in Nevada’s NW 202.448.6391 website for latest. 3766 202.328.0088 Metro: Dupont only). $15, seniors/students/ sented as shown on the run- communities and African- Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Sculpture Black Rock Desert, ongoing. Howard Ave., Kensington, Md., Circle (North) military $12, under 12 $8. way, highlighting the work of American heritage. “Your Garden (7:30 am-dusk). Tours Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Gift TORPEDO FACTORY 301.922.0162 Tickets available online. 1238 the Mulleavy sisters, through Community, Your Story: weekdays at 12:30 and shop. 17th St. & Pennsylvania ART CENTER TRANSFORMER Maryland Ave. SW, no phone Feb. 10. M-Sa 10 am-5 pm, Su Celebrating Five Decades of 3:30 pm. 7th St. & Independence Ave. NW, 202.633.1000 Metro: World War II munitions plant, CROSS MACKENZIE Nonprofit Warhol grantee noon-5 pm. $10, students/sen- the Anacostia Community Ave. SW, 202.633.1000 Metro: Farragut West now three floors of artist stu- Fine art with a focus on project site for collaborat- iors $8, 18 and under free. Free Museum, 1967-2017,” sig- L’Enfant Plaza-Smithsonian FREERCER CIITION FND IN HONOR OF IN R DIRECTOR R IN OF HONOR IN FND CIITION DIRECTOR FREERCER R IN OF HONOR IN FND CIITION FREERCER dios, plus archaeology muse- ceramics in charming ing artists, scientists, poets, N HOEI N TOT N OO HOEI TOT N OO admission on “Community nature projects from past

28 WHERE I DECEMBER 2018 29 Map WASHINGTON, D.C. & METRORAIL Map

VE NW

National To: Lincoln To: Shrine of the To: Washington Zoological ADAMS National Cathedral Cottage Immaculate Conception, Park, MORGAN Pope John Paul II Center, Hillwood Franciscan Monastery, Museum Meridian Catholic U. International Center Meridian Hill Rhode Park 1 Island Ave/ Brentwood 14TH & U Whitehaven CORRIDOR Park Islamic Lincoln Theatre Center RHODE ISLAND AVE NE Dumbarton U St./Cardozo Oaks Park L. Ron Hubbard EMBASSY House Source ROW Theatre Scottish Shaw/Howardard UU Rite Temple Sheridan Circle National Dupont Theatre J Arboretum GEORGETOWN Circle Logan SHAW DUPONT Circle 50 CIRCLE Gallaudet Univ. Scott Circle NY Ave/ 1 Florida Ave Thomas Mt. Vernon Circle Sq. Washington Convention Center

Farragut North 395 Mon-Thu W Washington Mt. Vernon 5am-11:30pm ASHINGTON Circle McPherson Sq. Square Fri HARBOUR 5am-1am Sat 7am-1am Farragut West BLADENSBURG RD Foggy Bottom Sun CHINATOWN 8am-11pm -GWU Lafayette Capital One Metro Center Nat’l Portrait Arena GalleryGallery Pl.-Pl.- ChinatoChinatown Union Theodore Square Gallery 66 Roosevelt Island FOGGY American Art Station ROSSLYN BOTTOM Madame Tussauds National Ford’s Harman Theatre Hall Rosslyn Theatre Int’l Spy VE Warner NEW YORK A Theatre Museum JudiciaryJudiciary Sq.Sq. E ST EXPRY KENT ST Constitution Hall State Federal Triangle Archives-es- NavyNavy Mem.Mem. Dept. Interior Stanton 13TH Dept. FIRST ST. NewseumNewseum Square 8TH 9TH 10TH 11TH OAS 12TH 50 1/2 mi 50 Museum of African American Museum of 1000 m History & Culture American Natural History Capitol History Museum Visitor Supreme MADISON DR Capitol Center Court CAPITOL Reflecting U. S. Lincoln RFK Smithsonian THE MALL Pool Capitol HILL Park Stadium J EFFER SO N DR DC Freer Gallery Air & Space Armory World War l Museum Korean War Memorial Veterans Memorial Stadium West Martin Luther U.S. Holocaust -Armory King, Jr. Memorial Memorial Potomac Museum L’Enfant VIRGINIA A Park Bureau of Plaza G Engraving V. E FederFederal Center Capitol O & Printing Dupont Circle – Georgetown – Rosslyn R South G SW Eastern E Market Arlington W

A Georgetown – Union Station ’ENFANT PLAZA ’ENFANT Women In Cemetery SH L INGT Military Memorial ON M Visitor Center EM Woodley Park – Adams Morgan – Kennedy OR IA McPherson Square Metro Gravesites L Arlington PA 395 295 RK VIRGINIA AV House W Union Station – Navy Yard Metro A Potomac Ave (Custis-Lee) Y . Lady Potomac Ave Metro – Arlington National Bird Skyland via Barracks Row Johnson Anacostia Cemetery Park Park NEW! National Mall Route

Memorial Tomb of the Unknowns Lyndon B. Amphitheatre Johnson Memorial Grove East 4TH ST.

FIRST ST. TINGEY ST. 27 Potomac N ST. Park WATER ST. Points of Interest Pentagon Nationals

WATER-ATER- FIRST ST Park Yards Park To: Smithsonian – Metro Stops Pentagon (9/11) FRONTFRONT Anacostia Air Force Memorial Memorial Pentagon Community Museum

30 WHERE I DECEMBER 2018 31 FROM THE DIRECTOR OF THE CROWN AND BILLY ELLIOT

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