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F ONTARIO I N N.B. C SASKA N.S. A A U N P D A N A E I T C E O D IC Ontario S T T A T N E S LA AT From Heartland to Hinterland, Experience All of Ontario! Ontario Here’s the new and completely revised edition of the Ulysses Travel Guide Ontario, the most complete guide to this Canadian province. Travel through the charming 19th-century villages that dot the banks of the St. Lawrence River and the shores of the Great Lakes. Fall under the spell of the modern cities of Ottawa, the nation’s capital, and Toronto, its proudly multicultural metropolis. Discover all of Ontario’s stunning natural splendours, from the majestic Niagara Falls to the sprawling beaches on Lake Huron and the untamed landscape of the Canadian Shield.

This guidebook features

• An in-depth look at the province’s cultural and historic treasures, with thorough descriptions and ratings, as well as a new thematic section that will help you better plan your itineraries and organize your time. • The inside scoop on the best accommodations and restaurants for every budget. • Complete information on the province’s parks and reserves and the many outdoor activities that can be enjoyed in them. • Precise maps and all the practical information you’ll need to find your way around Ontario.

ISBN:978-289464-773-8

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Killaloe Station N Burleigh Falls 71 St. Paul Kenora 127 Hastings Lake of Bewdley Deer River The Woods Peterborough Tory Hill Tory NORTHERN ONTARIO MINNESOTA Provincial Park (United States) Olean www.ulyssesguides.com Newcastle Haliburton Madawaska Lakefield Bobcaygeon Port Hope Kinmount Whitney 90 Minden Oshawa Bethany Buffalo Niagara Falls Park Port Perry Niagara-on- the-Lake Erie Fort 60 Kirkfield 17 Dorset Provincial Algonquin Lindsay Westfield Beaverton Carnarvon Coboconk Toronto QEW Sutton Bracebridge Aurora Welland Gravenhurst 11 11 Lake Orillia Mississauga Simcoe Burk's Falls 90 Sundridge Markham Oakville Port Colborne Burlington St. Catharines 400 Cookstown (United States) Hamilton Port McNicoll 401 Huntsville Grimsby Magnetawan PENNSYLVANIA Footes Bay 3 Erie 69 Midland 6 Acton Wasaga Beach 10 Orangeville Barrie Schomberg Port Dover Angus Port Loring Simcoe Orrville Guelph Waverley Brantford Brampton Fergus Long Point Port Rowan 69 10 Meaford Norwich Ardbeg Arthur Shelburne Woodstock Penetanguishene Collingwood Thornbury Parry Sound Port Burwell Creemore Elmira Cambridge 6 Elora 26 Aylmer Stratford 401 Port Kitchener Flesherton Bruce Waterloo Waterloo

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Worth a visit Pontiac

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Interesting Sebewaing MICHIGAN Detroit Amherstburg (United States) Ontario

Sixth Edition Pascale Couture

Out on the lake the last thin threads of the mist are clearing away like ﬂ ecks of cotton wool.

The long call of the loon echoes over the lake. The air is cool and fresh. There is in it all the new life of land of the silent pine and the moving waters.

- Stephen Leacock Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town

Travel better, enjoy more Author Computer Graphics Pascale Couture Marie-France Denis Pierre Ledoux Publisher Olivier Gougeon Cartographer Bradley Fenton Production Director André Duchesne Photography Cover page Copy Editing Spring tulips in Ottawa Matthew McLauchlin © Masterﬁ le / Bill Brooks Inside pages Translator © Ontario Tourism Cindy Garayt © Dreamstime.com/ Artur Jan, Elena Elisseeva, Sergey Ivanov © Philippe Renault

Acknowledgements The author would like to thank Benoit Prieur for his assistance, as well as her children, Maxence and Alicia, for their patience and good cheer during the long trips. She would also like to thank Pierre David. We acknowledge the ﬁ nancial support of the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing Industry Development Program (BPIDP) for our publishing activities. We would also like to thank the Government of Québec – Tax credit for book publishing – Administered by SODEC.

Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec and Library and Archives Canada cataloguing in publication

Couture, Pascale, 1966- Ontario 6th ed. (Ulysses travel guide) Translation of: Ontario. Includes index. ISBN 978-2-89464-773-8 1. Ontario - Guidebooks. 2. Ontario - Tours. I. Title. II. Series. FC3057.C6813 2007 917.1304’5 C2006-941288-X

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, including photocopying, without the written permission of the publisher. © June 2007, Ulysses Travel Guides All rights reserved Printed in Canada ISBN 13 978-2-89464-773-8 3 Table of Contents List of Maps 4 Entertainment 218 List of In-Depth Articles 5 Shopping 222 Map Symbols 6 Symbols Used In This Guide 6 The Lakelands 227 Ontario in Due Time 8 Getting There and Getting Around 228 Ontario À La Carte 8Useful Information 230 Where is Ontario in the World? 10 Exploring 230 Outdoor Activities 241 Portrait 11 Accommodations 243 Geography 12 Restaurants 249 Fauna 13 Entertainment 253 History 15 Shopping 253 Politics 23 Economy 24 The Niagara Peninsula Architecture 25 and Surroundings 255 The Arts 27 Getting There and Getting Around 256 Useful Information 258 Practical Information 33 Exploring 258 Entrance Formalities 34 Outdoor Activities 279 Getting There and Getting Around 34 Accommodations 281 Useful Information, from A to Z 37 Restaurants 292 Entertainment 298 Outdoors 47 Shopping 298 Parks 48 Summer Activities 50 Southwestern Ontario 301 Winter Activities 53 Getting There and Getting Around 302 Useful Information 304 Ottawa 55 Exploring 304 Getting There and Getting Around 57 Outdoor Activities 314 Useful Information 58 Accommodations 316 Exploring 59 Restaurants 322 Outdoor Activities 76 Entertainment 325 Accommodations 78 Shopping 326 Restaurants 83 Entertainment 89 Northeastern Ontario 329 Shopping 91 Getting There and Getting Around 330 Useful Information 332 Eastern Ontario 95 Exploring 333 Getting There and Getting Around 96 Outdoor Activities 346 Useful Information 98 Accommodations 350 Exploring 98 Restaurants 356 Outdoor Activities 113 Entertainment 358 Accommodations 116 Shopping 359 Restaurants 122 Entertainment 125 Northwestern Ontario 361 Shopping 126 Getting There and Getting Around 362 Useful Information 362 South-Central Ontario 129 Exploring 362 Getting There and Getting Around 130 Outdoor Activities 370 Useful Information 131 Accommodations 373 Exploring 131 Restaurants 376 Outdoor Activities 140 Entertainment 376 Accommodations 142 Shopping 377 Restaurants 147 Entertainment 151 Appendix 379 Shopping 151 Index 380 Our Guides 391 Toronto 153 Contact Us 393 Getting There and Getting Around 157 Write to Us 393 of Contents Table Useful Information 161 Notes 394 Exploring 161 Table of Distances 399 Parks 196 Weights and Measures 399 Outdoor Activities 196 Map Symbols 400 Accommodations 198 Symbols Used In This Guide 400 Restaurants 208 4 List of Maps Along the Shores of Lake Huron 239 Ottawa Downtown Attractions 63 Collingwood Accommodations and Restaurants 81 Attractions 234 Accommodations and Restaurants 246 Ottawa and Gatineau Attractions 60 Eastern Ontario 97 Peterborough Gatineau Attractions 138 Accommodations and Restaurants 82 Accommodations and Restaurants 146

Guelph Quinte’s Isle 135 Attractions 264 Accommodations and Restaurants 284 Sault Ste. Marie Attractions 339 Hamilton Accommodations and Restaurants 353 Attractions 269 Accommodations and Restaurants 286 South-Central Ontario 128

Kitchener Southwestern Ontario 303 Attractions 260, 261 Accommodations and Restaurants 282, 283 Stratford Attractions 308 Kingston Accommodations and Restaurants 318 Attractions 105 Accommodations and Restaurants 117 Sudbury Attractions 335 Lakelands, The 229 Accommodations and Restaurants 351

London, Downtown Suggested Tours in Ontario 32 Attractions 305 Accommodations and Restaurants 317 Thunder Bay Attractions 366 Manitoulin Island 342 Accommodations and Restaurants 374

Niagara-on-the-Lake Toronto Attractions 275 Accommodations and Restaurants 287 Annex, The Attractions 191 Accommodations and Restaurants 206 Niagara and the Wine Route 273 Bloor Street and Yorkville Avenue Niagara Falls Attractions 187 Attractions 277 Accommodations and Restaurants 204 Accommodations and Restaurants 291 Cabbagetown Attractions 169 Niagara Peninsula and Surroundings, The 257 Accommodations and Restaurants 205 Chinatown and Kensington Market

List of Maps Northeastern Ontario 328 Attractions 181 Accommodations and Restaurants 202 Northwestern Ontario 360 Entertainment and Financial Districts, The Attractions 166, 167 Accommodations and Restaurants 210, 211 5 Old Town of York Toronto and Surroundings 155 Attractions 176 Accommodations and Restaurants 200 Toronto Subway 160 Queen’s Park and the University of Toronto Attractions 185 Waterloo Accommodations and Restaurants 203 Attractions 260, 261 Accommodations and Restaurants 282, 283 Queen Street West Attractions 178, 179 Accommodations and Restaurants 212, 213 Windsor Attractions 312 Rosedale and Forest Hill Accommodations and Restaurants 321 Attractions 193 Accommodations and Restaurants 207 Waterfront and Toronto Islands, The Attractions 163 Accommodations and Restaurants 198

List of In-Depth Articles

Banting and Co. 183 Scottish and Irish Stone Masons 99

Blockhouses and Martello Towers 104 Thayendanegea, Mohawk Chief, British Military Ofﬁ cer and Ed Mirvish 168 Man of Letters 266

Ferocious Predator Alert! 368 The First Industrial Wave: Victoria Island and the Area Surrounding Chaudière Falls 75 Hogtown 177 The Invention of the Telephone 267 Ice Wines 274 The Mennonites 259 Lieutenant-Colonel John By 59 The Niagara Escarpment 238 Loyalists 134 The Odawa 57 Niagara’s Wine Country 272 The Trent-Severn Waterway 132 Norman Bethune 231 Three Ottawa Neighbourhoods 67 Rabies 51 Yonge Street 171 Respect the Forest! 49 List of Maps − In-Depth Articles 6 Map Symbols

International Market Attractions airport Accommodations Building Museum Restaurants Sea, lake, river National or Casino provincial park Forest or park Place Cemetery Beach

National capital Church DUNDAS Metro station Provincial or state capital International border Train station Golf course Provincial or regional border Hospital Car ferry Train track Tunnel Tourist information Passenger ferry

Symbols Used In This Guide

a Air conditioning Attraction Classifi cation bkfst incl. Breakfast included Not Notto be to missed be missed c Casino WorthWorth a visit a visit q Fan InterestingInteresting Fax number o Accommodation Classifi cation Fireplace g UnlessUnless otherwiseotherwise noted, noted, all allprices prices indicated indicated in this in guide this d Fitness centre applyguide to apply a standard to a standard room for room two forpeople two inpeople peak in season. peak season. fb Full board (lodging + 3 meals) $ less than 60$ ½b Half board (lodging + 2 meals) $$ $ from less 60$ than to 100$ $ $$$ $$ from from 101$ $ toto 150$$ f Kitchenette $$$$$$$ from from 151$ $ toto 225$$ $$$$$$$$$ more from than $ 225$to $ y Internet access in the room $$$$$ more than $ h Mosquito net Restaurant Classifi cation Restaurant Classifi cation i Parking Prices in this guide are for a meal for one person, Pets allowed Prices in this guideexcluding are for a taxesmeal and for onetip. person, excluding s taxes and tip. j Pool $ less than 15$ $$ $ 15$ lessto 25$ than $ k Refrigerator $$$ $$ 26$ $to to 50$ $ Restaurant $$$$$$$ more $ thanto $ 50$ m $$$$ more than $ n Sauna sb Shared bathroom l Spa All prices in this guide are in Canadian dollars. All prices in this guide are in Canadian dollars. p Telephone number 4 Travel by bike The grey-bordered sections of this guide list Travel by bus 6 the covered areas distinctive establishments. 5 Travel by car You can refer to the following pictograms 3 Travel by foot to fi nd the information you need: Map Symbols - Used In This Guide 7 Travel by metro ù Ulysses favourite H Accommodations t Wheelchair access S Entertainment b Whirlpool R Restaurants A Shopping provided tohelpyou customizeyour trip. fi Ontarioortheofwildopen spacesandbucolicvillages,tural you’ll Canadian province, whetheryou’re seekingtoexploretheurban, multicul- No matterwhatkindoftripyou’re ofyour planningorthelength stay inthis Ontario! My... nd everything tosatisfyyour expec

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One Week Any trip to Ontario should include, almost unavoidably, a visit to Niagara Falls, the province’s most spectacular natural site. The falls are located in a beautiful wine region that also deserves to be explored. Dynamic and hectic, Toronto is another obvious must. Canada’s metropolis offers all the attractions of a large sophisticated and lively city. You should also make a stop in Ottawa, where you will ﬁ nd some of the most impressive museums in the country, as well as an architectural heritage that is worthy of the city’s status as the nation’s capital.

Two Weeks If you’re planning to travel in Ontario for an extra week, you should also visit the lovely St. Lawrence Islands National Park and Kingston, a former military garrison that is now a beautiful lakeside city on the shore of Lake Ontario. You can also enjoy a stay in the agricultural region of Kitchener-Waterloo and in Stratford, a small, quaint town that is famous for its Shakespeare festival. Finally, a trip to the Lake Huron, Georgian Bay and village of Collingwood area is ideal for a beach vacation and to enjoy great views of one of the Great Lakes.

Three Weeks Continuing your trek towards southeastern Ontario, you can stop by the prosperous and pleasant town of London, before heading to Pointe Pelee National Park. If you’re in the mood for a real adventure and wish to discover the wilderness of the Canadian Shield, you should plan a trip to Algonquin Provincial Park. Dotted with a multitude of lakes and rivers, the park is a veritable haven for outdoor enthusiasts. Finally, the northern part of the province also features some lovely spots, including the city of Sault Ste. Marie.

Ontario À La Carte

Enchanting Weekends in the Country Ontario’s countryside is simply delightful. Blessed with the magniﬁ cent Great Lakes, vast, fertile lands that stretch as far as the eye can see, and the characteristic landscapes of the Canadian Shield, Ontario boasts magniﬁ cent rural regions. And at the heart of

- zzz each of these regions are a string of enchanting towns. To the east are Merrickville, which was built around the windmill that stands at the edge of the Rideau River, and Brockville, which proudly sits on the shore of the St. Lawrence River. On Quinte Bay, Bloomﬁ eld will seduce you with its charming little streets lined with quaint homes. A stay in Ontario wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Niagara-on-the-Lake, with its won- - zzz derful shops, posh inns and nearby vineyards. Stratford, with its British charm, boasts My... Ontario! My...

zzz a park that stretches all along the Avon River, an ideal spot to relax. Huntsville is the perfect vacation village; it is located in a beautiful countryside lake region and features large hotels. Elora, located in the heart of Mennonite country, boasts wonderful stone buildings. On the edge of Lake Huron, Goderich stands out thanks to its unusual downtown core, while the secret to Amherstburg lies in its military past; an old fort can still be visited here. You can stay in each of these lovely towns and, every morning, head off to discover new regions… miles away from the hustle and bustle of urban life. town’s reputedsummer-long hordesofShakespeareStratford attracts lovers whocometoenjoyplays duringthe on-the-Lake isnotonlyfamousfor itsvineyards, butalsofor its Toronto InternationalFilmFestival for itsFebruary life inOntarioalsoencompassesamultitudeoffestivals.Cultural Ottawa isfamous attraction, theuniquescience centre thatis collection ofworks isthe ofart tour ofthe the Canada are fullofsurprises. Ottawa istheproudhomeofsplendid Boasting someofthemostextensive ofCanadianart, Ontario’s collections museums Erie ( the life. treasurestheGeorgian Thenatural Bay by andits30,000islandsareprotected tional panoramas, itoffers for averitable thosewhowishtoescapemodern sanctuary Provincial Park tomany, landscapesareaninspiration Canadian Shieldanditsdramatic so most stripoflandandwelcomes manyspeciesofbirdsduringtheirmigration. The by land isprotected bythe up thelandscapeprotected the St. Lawrence River islinedwithasuccessionofmorethan1,000islandsthatmake are amust-seeattraction, butOntario’s heritagedoesn’tstopthere. natural Indeed, Niagara Falls the sandybeachesthatstretchalongLake Ontario( Lake SuperiorProvincialPark if onlytomarvel atitsimmensity. Two exceptional parkspreserve someofitssecrets: thatdeserve tobementioned. attractions Ontario, thatremainssparselypopulated, avastterritory alsofeatures several natural Splendid NaturalAttractions Fascinating MuseumsandFestivals Royal OntarioMuseum Georgian BayIslandsNationalParkGeorgian Port Stanley andthe iswithoutadoubtoneoftheprovince’s treasures. topnatural Thefalls Ontario ScienceCentre was created to preserve this natural living portrait. Asidefromexcep- was livingportrait. createdtopreserve thisnatural Canadian War Museum ) andLake Huron( Winterlude Pointe Pelee NationalPark andthe anditsMay and Stratford Festival , for theirpart, arealsodeservedly renowned. Niagara- Art Gallery ofWindsor Gallery Art Pukaskwa National Park . Anothersurprisingmuseumthatdisplays alovely Art Gallery ofOntario Gallery Art Pinery ProvincialPark Pinery St. Lawrence IslandsNationalPark andthe . InToronto, you of canadmirethecollections tulip festival LakeSuperior Science North . , whichconstitutesCanada’s southern- Bruce Peninsula NationalPark . alsohasitsownworthy Sudbury . The , inanenlightening ortake part . Finally, don’tforget tostopby Sandbanks ProvincialPark aloneisworth thelongdrive, and . Toronto JazzFestival Wasaga ProvincialPark Shaw Festival . Anotherstripof National Gallery of of National Gallery . Northern . Northern Algonquin Algonquin and the andthe ), Lake , while 9 zzzMy... Ontario! - zzz - zzz ). 10 Where is Ontario in the World?

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T L Falls Windsor A e PENN. L E ri T D e E ak Philadelphia A S L Cleveland T A Chicago T Ontario E S Country: Canada Capital: Toronto Area: 1,068,630km2 Population: 12,700,000 inhab. Pop. Density: 12,94 inhab./km2 Currency: Canadian dollar Highest Point: Ishpatina Main Cities: Ridge (693m) Climate: Temperate continental Time Zone: UTC –5 (EST) and Where is Ontario in the World? Average temperatures: in winter –6 (EDT) –5°C (min.) and 1°C (max.), in sum- Language: English; approximately mer 17°C (min.) and 27°C (max.) 4% of the province’s population is Average precipitations: 80cm of rain Francophone and 300cm of snow 11 Portrait

Geography 12 Economy 24 Fauna 13 Architecture 25 History 15 The Arts 27 Politics 23 12 ften the fi rst image that comes to mind when thinking of Ontario is the Great Lakes, those tremendous expanses of O fresh water surrounded by an untamed abundance of nature. Another obvious image is of vast, fertile fi elds dotted with farmhouses charmingly adorned with balconies, shutters and fl owers.

Still another vision is that of tiny hamlets with their splendid dwellings that in many cases have reigned over their surroundings for more than a century and a half. Finally, there are the cities with their priceless architectural heritage, silent witnesses to the prosperity of Canada’s richest province. Rural Ontario certainly has plenty to delight romantic souls looking for tranquillity and a glimpse of the past, but this province also has an eminently modern, urban face. After all, it encompasses Toronto, Canada’s biggest city, and Ottawa, its federal capital.

With a land mass of 1,068,000km², Ontario is the second-biggest Canadian province in terms of surface area, behind only Québec. It is bordered to the east by Québec, to the west by Manitoba, to the north by Hudson Bay, and to the south by the United States. Much of its southern boundary is formed by lakes Superior, Huron, Erie and Ontario, and, furthest east, by the St. Lawrence River. These waterways allow easy access to much of Ontario and in the past were the basis for settlement of the province.

Geography Painter Tom Thomson and the Group of Seven captured all the beauty of Ontario’s natural assets in their paintings, which reveal wild landscapes that exude a sense of solitude and serenity. These panoramas, typical of the Canadian Shield, show some of Ontario’s vast riches, which you will discover as you explore the region.

The Lakes Ontario is proud to be home to four of the fi ve Great Lakes: Ontario, Erie, Huron and Superior (the fi fth, Lake Michigan, is located in the United States). The size of these gigantic expanses of fresh water is quite impressive. The smallest of the Great Lakes, Lake Ontario, covers no less than 18,000km², while the largest, Lake Superior, which is also the largest fresh-water lake in the world, covers 82,700km². The lakes were formed by retreating glaciers during the Quaternary period. Drain- ing the Lake Superior basin and several U.S. states, the majestic St. Lawrence River forms the south-eastern boundary of the province and crosses Québec to fi nally fl ow into the Atlantic Ocean. Aside from the Great Lakes, Ontario contains some 400,000 lakes and rivers that have played a key role in the province’s history; in addition to supplying essential food for Aboriginal nations, they were the main transportation - Geography routes into the territory.

The Plains Portrait West of the St. Lawrence River and in the southwest part of the province are vast, fertile plains that produce most of Ontario’s agricultural output, such as wheat, corn, tobacco, vegetables and fruits. For its part, the Niagara Peninsula is ideal for growing peaches, cherries and grapes, thanks to its unique microclimate. Many Canadian wines come from wineries located in this peninsula. 13 The Canadian Shield The Canadian Shield forms a half-circle around Hudson Bay, from the northeastern part of the country to the Arctic archipelago, and covers a large part of Ontario. This vast territory, created during the Precambrian era, was shaped by retreating glaciers that exposed rocks and formed rivers and lakes along the way, as well as undulating landscapes of no more than 100 metres in elevation. This area is very rugged and un- favourable to agriculture. However, the type of forest that is found here has allowed the development of an important logging industry, while the subsoil has revealed great riches, such as deposits of gold and nickel, as well as silver veins.

The Forest Today, Ontario’s territory is still largely covered by a vast forest that changes gradually from the north to the south. A small part of the territory (the southwest tip) hosts hardwood forests, with such species as maple, beech, elm, oak and ash. This type of forest is soon replaced by a mixed forest, however, which is mostly composed of maple, aspen and a multitude of softwood trees such as balsam ﬁ r, larch and jack pine.

Further north, deciduous trees become increasingly rare, with the boreal forest dom- inated instead by conifers (mostly species of pine, larch, spruce and ﬁ r). This ever- green forest begins in Ontario’s mid-north and gives way in turn to transitional boreal forest containing smaller forms of vegetation that are better adapted to the rigours of the northern climate.

The harsh climate in the province’s far north is characterized by long and very cold winters, short summers with fewer than 120 frost-free days, and low rainfall. This al- lows only stunted forms of vegetation to develop.

Fauna Moose, deer, foxes and beavers are among the animal species inhabiting Ontario forests. To help you recognize them, here is a brief description of some of them. We will not even attempt to give a thorough description of the many hundreds of species of bird-life that can be observed year-round. You will, however, ﬁ nd bird-watching information in the “Outdoor Activities” sections of some chapters in this guide, with descriptions of good bird-watching spots.

The Deer Family The moose, nearly 2m high and weighing up to 600kg, is the biggest of the Cervidae.

It is easily distinguished by its long head, round nose, the hump on its back and its - Fauna brown coat. Males have enormous antlers. Moose are found near streams in the north of the province, and are particularly numerous in Algonquin Park.

The white-tailed deer is noted for its reddish-brown coat and its white tail. This deer, scarcely a metre high, is found in forests in the southern part of the province, where Portrait it is relatively easy to observe. With few natural enemies apart from wolves and bears, it often forms oversized herds. Pinery and Rondeau parks are good places to observe this species. 14 Predators The wolf lives in packs. It resembles a grey German-shepherd-type dog, is between 67cm and 95cm long, and weighs at most about 50kg. It attacks its prey (often deer) in packs, making it unpopular with some animal-lovers. There have even been efforts in the past to eliminate it completely. These efforts failed, but they did reduce the numbers living in the wild. It is fairly common for campers in provincial parks to hear wolves howling, but they rarely approach human beings.

The coyote is another canine predator. Smaller than the wolf, it is about 40cm long and weighs about 15kg. Its coat is grey and reddish-brown. This is another predator that, at one time, was slated for extermination. There remain a good number today despite trappers and hunters. They are found mostly in the bush.

The fox is a cute little reddish-brown animal with magniﬁ cent fur. It is found through- out the Ontario forest, but this cunning animal often avoids inhabited areas and visitors, and thus is rarely seen. It hunts alone and also feeds on berries and nuts.

The black bear is the most dangerous animal in the Southern Ontario forest. Incidents are rare, but each year a few visitors are injured by this beautiful and powerful animal. It is sometimes seen in parks, particularly in places where food can be found (campers: don’t leave any out!). It is mostly nocturnal. This is the smallest bear in Canada, about 1.5m long and about 220kg in weight.

Rodents Canada’s emblem, the beaver, is found near bodies of water, where it builds its lodge. The technique is simple: it cuts down several trees to form a dam that controls the water level, and then it builds its lodge. It is an excellent swimmer. This small brown animal has a ﬂ at, spiky tail. With few means of defence, it has been heavily hunted, although there remain many in Ontario.

The prairie dog, a small, pale brown animal, is often found in the fi elds, where it lives in groups of about 20. It feeds on roots and herbs, and can quickly destroy crops. This explains the concern of farmers who fi nd this animal in their fi elds. It is often hunted down.

The porcupine is a small rodent that abounds in coniferous and deciduous forests. It is well known for its unusual way of defending itself. In case of danger, it curls up, extends its spines, and forms an unassailable pin cushion.

Others The raccoon is easily identifi able. This little grey animal, scarcely bigger than a cat, has - Fauna a black mask around its eyes and a black-and-grey-striped tail. It is seen frequently and does not hesitate to rummage through garbage or through campers’ food. Be- ware: it is best not to feed it. It is omnivorous and seems to like everything, and is often found in cities. Portrait The skunk is a little black animal distinguished by white stripes on its back and its bushy tail. But it is identifi ed most of all by the very unpleasant odour it can give off. It defends itself by spraying its enemies with a foul-smelling liquid. 15 History When Europeans came to the New World, a mosaic of Aboriginal peoples had already occupied this vast continent for thousands of years. The ancestors of these peoples crossed the Bering Strait toward the end of the last Ice Age, more than 12,000 years ago, and gradually occupied the entire continent. During the following millennia, encouraged by the retreat of the glaciers, some of them began to migrate toward the most northerly lands of Eastern Canada. When Europeans launched their fi rst intensive explorations of North America, several nations grouped according to two linguistic families (Iroquoian and Algonquian) shared the territory that would later be known as Ontario.

Living in bands, the Aboriginal communities had to adapt themselves to the characteristics of the territory they occupied. The Algonquian nations who, in most cases lived in the mid-north and far north of Ontario, developed a way of life suited to a rigorous climate that was too cold for agriculture. They were nomads, living in small bands and subsisting mostly on hunting. In contrast, the Iroquoian nations in the south were much more sedentary. The land they lived on enabled them to prosper from agriculture, which provided most of their food. The Iroquois lived in big villages, often protected by wooden palisades, some of them with populations over 1,000.

Efﬁ cient systems of communication and trading became established over the centuries between these Amerindian communities. Using a barter system, the Aboriginals of Southern Ontario traded their farming produce for furs from their more northerly neighbours, the Algonquians. The use of canoes along the many rivers and lakes lay at the heart of this way of life. Although they succeeded in making good use of the resources and the special characteristics of the lands they lived on, these societies would face unprecedented challenges with the arrival of Europeans beginning in the 16th century.

The Meeting of Two Civilizations Toward the year 1000, Viking explorers had taken advantage of a climatic warming to sail along the eastern coast of what is now Canada. They also fi shed and built settle- ments there. It was not until several centuries later, however, with the fi rst voyage of Christopher Columbus in 1492, that Europeans began intensive exploration and colonization of the American continent. In Canada, the fi rst European expeditions that would have long-lasting results were led by John Cabot and, later, by Jacques Cartier.

John Cabot, born Giovanni Caboto, obtained ﬁ nancial and political support in Eng- land and set sail from the port of Bristol in 1497, heading west. Cabot was looking for a route that would lead him to the much-coveted riches of the Orient. His explorations ended instead on the island of Newfoundland. Nonetheless, Cabot’s expedition - History would have important consequences. Back in England, he spoke of the great riches he had discovered, the seemingly inexhaustible cod banks off the northern shores of the New World. From then on, English, French, Basque and Spanish ﬁ shers left European ports in ever greater numbers in search of this marine wealth off New- foundland. Portrait

In 1534, the Breton navigator Jacques Cartier launched the fi rst of his three North American expeditions. Cartier was mandated by King François I to fi nd gold and a passage to Asia. Cartier did not fi nd either of these, although his expeditions did lead him up the St. Lawrence River as far as the site of the present-day city of Montréal. 16 Disappointed by Cartier’s discoveries, the French authorities soon abandoned any further exploration of this territory, which they considered inhospitable. Even so, the expeditions of Cabot and Cartier were the prelude to colonization efforts in the following centuries.

French Settlement A few decades later, the growing fashion among Europeans for fur hats and cloth- ing, and the huge proﬁ ts expected from this trade, rekindled the French authorities’ interest in North America. The fur trade required constant contact with Aboriginal suppliers, and a permanent presence thus became necessary. It was mostly for pur- poses of trade that posts were created at Québec in 1608 and at Montréal in 1642. In the following decades, these two posts along the St. Lawrence River would become the heart of New France.

Located deeper in the interior, far from the Atlantic coast and from the easily navig- able portion of the St. Lawrence River, the Ontario territory was not considered suit- able for colonization by French authorities. Its lands were surveyed nevertheless by French explorers. In 1610, only two years after the founding of Québec, the explorer Étienne Brûlé set out to discover the interior of the continent. Like several of his pre- decessors, Brûlé was seeking a route that could lead him quickly across the continent to the fabulous riches of the Orient. Travelling alone, he was the ﬁ rst European to reach Lake Ontario and Lake Huron.

A few years later, in 1615, Étienne Brûlé launched a new westward expedition, ac- companied this time by the great explorer Samuel de Champlain, founder of the post at Québec. Champlain and Brûlé got as far as the shores of Georgian Bay, where an agreement was concluded between the French and the Hurons who inhabited the area. The Hurons agreed to trade exclusively with the French who, in return, offered them protection against their traditional Iroquois enemies who lived further south.

Even though the fur trade continued to lie at the origin of colonization efforts during this period, the New World also held great interest for French religious orders. The Récollets arrived ﬁ rst, in 1615, before being replaced by the Jesuits starting in 1632. They saw the evangelization of the Aboriginals as an unprecedented opportunity to extend Christianity. In 1639, deep in the Ontario hinterland on the shores of Georgian Bay explored earlier by Brûlé and Champlain, a small group of Jesuits founded the mission of Sainte-Marie Among the Hurons, near the present-day town of Midland. The agreement allying them with the French was probably the main reason the Hurons accepted this religious presence. The mission was abandoned a few years later, however, after ﬁ ve Jesuits perished during the military defeats that the Hurons suffered at Iroquois hands in 1648 and 1649.

This war was part of an extensive offensive campaign launched by the powerful Iroquois Five Nations confederacy between 1645 and 1655 intended to wipe out all - History rival nations. The Hurons, the Petuns, the Eries and the Neutrals, each at least 10,000 strong, were almost completely annihilated within the space of ten years. These Iroquoian-speaking nations of Southern Ontario were essentially victims of the war for the monopoly of the fur trade conducted by the European powers through inter-

Portrait mediaries. Allied with the English, the Five Nations confederacy, whose traditional territories lay further south in what is now the United States, wanted to appropriate this lucrative trade for itself. The Iroquois military offensive also threatened the exist- ence of the French colony. During 1660 and 1661, Iroquois warriors struck every- where in New France, bringing a halt to the fur trade and ruining crops. French King Louis XIV reacted by sending in troops that succeeded in “pacifying” these Aboriginal people. 17 The Fur Trade The following years were marked by heavy growth in the fur trade, with Montréal at its centre. This period in the history of New France coincides with the glorious era of the coureurs des bois, literally the “runners of the woods.” Leaving their lands behind, these intrepid young men headed deep into the back-country, crisscrossing the territory of what is now Ontario, to trade directly with Aboriginal fur suppliers.

Helped by the expeditions of these trappers and also by missionaries and explorers, French claims in North America grew rapidly. New France reached its zenith at the dawn of the 18th century, with a strong hold over the North American fur trade, control over the St. Lawrence River and the Great Lakes, and plans to further exploit its lands in Louisiana. These strategic positions enabled it to limit the expansion of the far more populous English colonies, wedged in the territory between the Atlantic Ocean and the Appalachian mountains. But France, after being defeated in Europe, agreed under the terms of the Treaty of Utrecht of 1713 to turn over ofﬁ cial control of Hudson Bay, Newfoundland and Acadia to the English. This treaty led to New France’s loss of strategic military positions, weakening it severely and presaging its downfall.

In the following years, the noose kept tightening around New France. When the Sev- en Years’ War (1756-63) broke out in Europe, the North American colonies quickly became one of the key stakes. On the territory of present-day Ontario, French troops managed in the early years to contain the British thrust and to retain control of navigation on the Great Lakes. The French forces were small in numbers, but they held strategic positions: Fort Frontenac, at the mouth of Lake Ontario; Niagara, an important link between Lake Ontario and Lake Erie; Detroit, situated at the point of Lake Erie; Michilimackinac, where lakes Michigan and Huron meet; and Fort Rouillé, built in the excellent port that is now called Toronto. One after another, however, each of these fortiﬁ cations would fall into British hands. Although Montréal was the last city to fall, in 1760, the fate of New France had already been sealed the previous year in Québec City in the famous battle of the Plains of Abraham. By the Treaty of Paris, in 1763, France ofﬁ cially ceded all its North American possessions to England, except the Saint-Pierre and Miquelon islands.

British North America In the early years after the British conquest of Canada, little changed in Ontario, which remained a vast and largely unoccupied territory, except for aboriginal settle- ments and fur traders. The British Crown did not decree any colonization or development plans during this period apart from the fur trade. Ironically, it was the American War of Independence (1775-83) that would give birth to Ontario, radically changing the history of Canada.

In the early years of the conﬂ ict that pitted Great Britain against insurgents in its 13 southern colonies, British forces established strategic positions in Ontario from which - History they launched attacks against the American rebels. Overall, however, the war went against the British troops and their allies, and they ﬁ nally had to concede defeat. The American Revolution, at least in the beginning, had been a genuine civil war

between two factions: the supporters of independence and the Loyalists who wished Portrait to maintain colonial ties with the British. More than 350,000 of these Loyalists played an active part, ﬁ ghting on the British side.

The signing of the Treaty of Versailles in 1783, which recognized the British defeat at the hands of the American Revolutionaries, pushed tens of thousands of these Loyal- ists to seek refuge in Canada. Between 5,000 and 6,000 of them settled on the virgin 18 western lands of what is now Ontario and developed the ﬁ rst permanent colonies in this territory. Most of them settled along the northern shore of the St. Lawrence River and Lake Ontario in the area around what are now Prince Edward County and the city of Kingston, as well as in the Niagara region. Some First Nations bands that had fought alongside the British were granted lands in the Grand River Valley.

Until the arrival of the Loyalists, few citizens of British descent had emigrated to Canada, apart from some merchants who took the place of the French in the fur trade. Thus, two decades after the British conquest, the backgrounds of the vast majority of the Canadian population remained French and Catholic. With the rise of pro-independence feelings in the 13 southern colonies, the British Crown gave them the right to maintain their religion and customs to ensure the loyalty of these former subjects of the King of France. To keep the Loyalists from being in the minority, while at the same time upholding the rights of French Catholics, London promulgated the Constitutional Act of 1791 that divided Canada in two: Lower Canada and Upper Canada.

The Creation of Upper Canada Lower Canada, with its large French majority, remained subject to French civil law, while Upper Canada, located west of the Ottawa River, was inhabited mostly by Loyalists of British stock and was subject to English common law. The Constitutional Act also introduced to Canada the beginnings of a parliamentary system, with the creation of a House of Assembly in each of the provinces.

Upper Canada at ﬁ rst chose Newark, in the Niagara region, as its capital. But this did not last long, for the site was poorly protected and could easily fall if the Americans decided to invade Canada. In August 1793, the future site of Toronto, an easily de- fended port a good distance from the American border, was chosen to be capital of the new province. This site was strategic, but it remained virtually uninhabited. That same year, a little colony was set up along the Don River. Known as York until 1834, the capital of Upper Canada had only 800 inhabitants in 1810, and it would have been difﬁ cult then to predict its brilliant future.

The Upper Canadian settlers certainly had reason to mistrust their southern neighbours, who soon justifi ed these fears. In 1812, allegedly fed up with excessive British control over the Great Lakes, the Americans declared war on Britain and, thus, on Canada. Loyalists and their descendants still formed the majority of Upper Canada’s population, lending a rather emotional aspect to this confl ict. Britain, tied down in Europe by the Napoleonic Wars, could not provide signifi cant aid to its colony. The settlers managed nonetheless to repulse the American attacks and to infl ict on the United States of America the fi rst military defeat in its young history.

Even though its downfall had been narrowly avoided, Upper Canada’s geographic isolation became evident in the War of 1812. Quite apart from rendering the colony - History vulnerable in wartime, the various sets of rapids that blocked navigation along the St. Lawrence River and between the Great Lakes limited commercial trade with the colony even in peacetime. To open the route to Upper Canada, canals were built in several places, notably at Lachine, in 1814, and at Welland, in 1824. The fear of a new

Portrait American invasion even led colonial authorities to approve the building of the Rideau Canal (1828-32), a difﬁ cult project that provided a direct link between Fort Henry (now Kingston) and the Ottawa River that bypassed the St. Lawrence River, whose southern shore forms the border with the United States. Where this canal meets the Ottawa River, a small colony was born and given the name Bytown; later, in 1855, it was renamed Ottawa and became the federal capital of Canada. 17 Lovicourt Malone Senneterre 88 Matagami Val-d’Or 90 20 La Vérendrye La Vérendrye Amos