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The Old Cariboo Wagon Road The Provincial Archives, Part II Jonathan Miller, Vancouver Pioneer On the cover ...

The Barnard Express Depot at Yale in 1868 ... story starts on page 5.

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HISTORICAL NEWS Volume1„No1

Features The Old Cariboo Wagon Road 5 by T.D. Sale The Provincial Archives of British Columbia, Part Two 11 by John A. Bovey Jonathan Miller, One of Vancouver's Earliest Pioneers 14 by Douglas E. Harker

News and Notes The Canadian National Historical Association Regional History Prizes 21 Introducing 22 Writing Competition 22

Bookshelf Ninstints: Haida World Heritage Site by UBC Press and UBC Museum of Anthropology; review by Douglas Cole 23 Footprints: Pioneer Families of the Metchosin District by Marion I. Helgeson, ed.; review by Barry Gough 24 Floodland and Forest: Memories of the Chilliwack Valley by Imbert Orchard; review by Jacqueline Gresko 25 Voices: A Guide to Oral History, by Derek Reimer, ed.; review by Lynne Bowen ... 26

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Page 4 British Columbia Historical News T.D. SALE

The Old Cariboo Wagon Road Early Travel On The Cariboo Highway To 1943

Prior to recording the historical development At the beginning of the nineteenth century of the Old Cariboo Wagon Road it is first Simon Fraser was the first explorer to travel the necessary to examine the geographical structure length of the Cariboo country, naming it New of the northern part located in the area once Caledonia. One definition of 'Cariboo' is known as "New Caledonia". The fur trading 'Cariboeuf which means the favourite haunt of companies needed no road but made use of the the reindeer. numerous rivers and lakes to gather the furs to Early in 1856 an Indian found a large pebble of the forts which were strategically located. The gold in the Nicomen River as he stooped to local Indian population did most of the trapping obtain a drink. He sold the gold to the Hudson's and brought the furs to the forts in order to trade Bay Company, who didn't want a stampede of for goods. The fur brigades delivered these furs gold-seekers to interfere with their lucrative fur to Montreal by following the rivers and lakes trade in the area. On April 16th, 1856, Governor across what is now known as Canada. James Douglas publicly announced that gold had Gold, discovered on the bars of the lower been discovered. As the nearest mint was located Fraser River, brought in the first sizeable wave of at San Francisco, the Hudson's Bay Company in white settlers. Rich strikes in Lightning Creek and February 1858 shipped 800 ounces of gold on the Williams Creek caused the wave of gold-seekers steamer Otter, thus further spreading the word to ascend the Fraser. After the readily available and speeding up the gold rush to the lower gold began to decline, so too did the population. Fraser. Quite accidentally gold had been By 1901 the census recorded a population of only discovered on Hill's Bar. 4500 in the whole Cariboo area. On April 25th, 1858, four hundred fifty miners The population began to increase, slowly at arrived at Fort Victoria on the Commodore. At first, when the railways began to supply the area. the time, the population of the Fort was only four The Canadian Pacific was located to the south, hundred people. In quick succession an the Canadian National to the north, while the estimated 30,000 gold-seekers travelled from San Pacific Great Eastern (now known as the British Francisco on any ship that would float. This ever- Columbia Railway) followed the old Cariboo increasing stampede of miners made their way Trail and for many years ended at Quesnel. up the Fraser River in search of the precious Ranching was making a good start. This was soon metal. followed by the forest industry. As transportation Governor Douglas was faced with a large improved so did the industries in the Cariboo. By number of idle miners driven from their claims 1951 the census showed there was a population by the flooding of the Fraser River in the late of 50,000 people. spring of 1858. He put them to work constructing The climate of this Central Interior Plateau is the Harrison Trail to Lillooet. He hired twenty continental in nature and thus cold in winter teams of twenty-five men and gave them free (averaging 10 degrees below zero F., or -10 transport, free room and board, but no pay. Each degrees C) Due to the altitude the summers are man hired had to pay a twenty-five dollar peace reasonably cool. Precipitation is about twenty bond and work guarantee. The equivalent sum inches at the southern end and increases towards was returned to him in goods when the trail was the north. completed, which was at the end of September 1858.

British Columbia Historical News Page5 In reply to Governor Douglas' appeal to the Gold production in the Cariboo reached its Colonial Office in England, a detachment of peak in 1863 when an estimated six million Royal Engineers, consisting of 165 officers and dollars was produced in the vicinity of Barkerville men, arrived in the fall of 1858 under the alone. For every six miners that sought to get rich command of Colonel Richard Moody. On quickly, after a year or less, five gave up the quest November 19th, 1858, at Fort Langley, James and looked for other occupations or retraced Douglas became Governor of the mainland their steps and left the country. colony of British Columbia. His Deputy was With the completion of the Cariboo Wagon Colonel Moody, who also became Chief Road, it was possible to travel the 180 miles by Commissioner of Lands and Works for the sternwheel steamer from Victoria to Yale, and Colony. Amongst the Royal Engineers were such 400 miles from Yale to Barkerville, a total distance tradesmen as architects, blacksmiths, carpenters, of 580 miles (928 km). Governor Douglas was miners, painters, and surveyors. New Westmin­ empowered to borrow a quarter of a million ster, Lytton, Lillooet, and Quesnel were all dollars to build the Cariboo Road. The total cost surveyed by the Royal Engineers. Their presence of constructing the road was just over a million served to have a steadying influence on the dollars ($2500 per mile). To pay for the road, tolls fledgling Colony. New Westminster became the were levied totalling fifty-three dollars a ton or capital of the Colony on May 5,1859. over two and a half cents a pound. To this figure In 1861, Lillooet (meaning wild onion), must be added the freight rate of fifteen cents a formerly known as Cayoosh Flats, became Mile 0 pound. The cost of transporting was often two or and the start of the first Cariboo Wagon Road. By three times the original price of the freight being 1863, Lillooet had a population of 15,000 and was carried. The traders and packers kept in touch the second largest town north of San Francisco. with the miners, supplying their wants according Cayoosh Creek produced a total of three million to their ability to pay. The first express service was dollars of gold. The Harrison-Lillooet route was a by canoe or horseback, or packman. William mixed land and water route which meant freight Ballou was one such pioneer expressman. had to be handled too many times. Walter In the days of the stagecoaches, Mile Houses Moberly, an engineer, persuaded Governor made their appearance along the Wagon Road, Douglas that the superior route through the where horses could be changed and passengers Fraser Canyon and along the Thompson River could be fed or boarded overnight. These Mile should be utilized. Houses were numbered from Lillooet, the first The decision made as to the route, the Royal being 15 Mile House. The second was 22 Mile Engineers, in October 1861, began to survey and House, where extra horses were needed for the to blast out from almost solid rock a road from hard three-mile pull up Pavilion Mountain. After Yale to Cooks Ferry. The width of this road was a further change or two of horses the stagecoach eighteen feet. It was described as stony, dusty, reached 47 Mile House (named Clinton after the muddy, pitted with holes, and subject to slides Colonial Secretary). At Clinton the stagecoach and washouts at various times of the year. The from Yale would follow the same Wagon Road as Wagon Road was contracted out in sections in the one from Lillooet. 1862 and 1863. These contractors included Two miles north of the Chasm there is an Joseph Trutch and his partner Thomas Spence. alternate route of 125 miles through the edge of Contractor G.B. Wright had successfully the Chilcotin country to Williams Lake via Dog completed the Lillooet to Clinton section. He Creek, Alkali Lake and Springhouse. Back on the was promptly awarded the 130 mile section from Cariboo Road, 59 Mile house was destroyed by Clinton to Soda Creek. Yale had been chosen as fire in 1946 and 70 Mile House was destroyed by the starting point for the Wagon Road since it was fire in 1956. The next main stage stop was 74 Mile the head of navigation on the lower Fraser River. House then the 83 Mile House, where fresh Soda Creek to Quesnel was served by a steamer. horses were needed to pull the coach up the In 1864 G.B. Wright contracted to build a wagon steep hill. Another change was needed at 93 Mile road from Quesnel to Cottonwood. The House. Then it was downhill to 100 Mile House, following year the road was extended to the where the original buildings were destroyed by heart of the gold-fields located at Barkerville, fire in 1937. In the days of the stagecoaches, Camerontown, and Richfield. stopping places were built at 105 Mile House, 108

Page 6 British Columbia Historical News Mile House, 111 Mile House, 112 Mile House, 114 Mile House, and 115 Mile House. Here the Cariboo Wagon Road follows close to the shores BARNARD'S of Lac La Hache (Lake of the Hatchet). Travelling north, frequent stopping places were available at 117 Mile House, 122 Mile House, 127 Mile House, Express Line Stages 132 Mile House, 134 Mile House, and 141 Mile CARRYING II. M. MAILS, House. At 145 Mile a road leads into the San Jose Will raako Valley where St. Joseph's Mission, the Onward Ranch, and the Sugar Cane Indian Reserve are Regular "Weekly Trips located. At 150 Mile House the Cariboo Road by­ from Barkerville, passed Williams Lake and headed across country via 153 Mile House, 158 Mile House, and 164 Mile Arriving in Yale on Thursdays, in limp to connect witli tbo nteamei- '• Onward'' for House to the Gold Fields Trail. In 1860 this had New Westminster. i\mt with the II. 13. Co.'d been the walking route for thousands of miners. steamer " Enterprise," On April 14,1861, near Hope, the boiler of the sternwheel steamer Fort Yale exploded, killing ARRIVING IN VICTORIA ON five of her crew. One of the survivors was the SATURDAYS. purser, Francis Jones Barnard. Following the Tlie California steamers leave Victoria on explosion, he left steamboating and began the 7lb and 22d ol each month. delivering letters and papers throughout the ap27 3in F. J. BARNARD. Cariboo. From this humble beginning evolved the famous B.C. Express Company. On March 12,1864, the first BX stagecoach run and blacksmiths were stationed at the Mile was made from Yale to Soda Creek, taking 72 Houses where changes of horses took place. hours to cover the distance. The red and yellow, Each horse had its own handmade harness which California built, Concord-type coach was used. was cleaned every time it was used. The baggage, The fare was $130. Meals at the Mile Houses were express parcels, and the mail were all loaded first, fifty cents or seventy-five cents. A night's lodging then the passengers took their seats and finally was fifty cents. With less traffic on the road at the driver, with his money bag, climbed into his night and by travelling non-stop except for meals seat. The ostler would then lead the two sturdy and changes of horses, the travel time was 1700 pound "wheelers" or "luggers" to their reduced to 48 hours a short time later. In 1865 the positions on each side of the staging pole, fasten fare from Yale to Barkerville was $125. Express them properly into position, and hand the reins parcels were a dollar a pound. An express letter to the driver. The second pair were the was also one dollar. A newspaper was fifty cents. "spanners" or "swing" team. Having placed By 1868 the fare had been reduced to $85. Sleighs them just ahead of the "wheelers" the ostler were used to make the trip in winter. fastened them in the proper place and handed In the latter decades of the nineteenth century their reins to the driver. Finally the two 1300 the- Cariboo owed its development mainly to pound spirited leaders were brought out "horsepower". The big tandem freight wagons prancing and eager to go. Usually with some were often drawn by five teams of sturdy draft difficulty, the ostler fastened them into position horses. A common sight were freight wagons and handed their reins to the driver who rapidly being pulled over the rough terrain by as many as released the stagecoach's brake. The horses six yoke of oxen. The most colourful and the best lunged forward, but within a few yards settled packer of this era was John Jacques Caux, better down to a brisk trot, drawing the coach forward known as Cataline. With the building of the at a steady pace. The ostlers and the blacksmiths Canadian Pacific Railway in 1886, the distance for took pride in their work and gave these hauling some of the freight was shortened since stagecoach horses the best possible care and deliveries could be made by rail to Ashcroft. attention. The drivers seldom if ever abused Following the completion of the CPR, the BX these horses. They became very skillful with the Company transferred its office from Yale to use of the "jerkline" reins and the whip which Ashcroft. Six-horse stagecoaches were the main could urge an indolent horse to pull his share of method of travel at this time. The best horses the load without the other five horses even possible were obtained for stage stock. Ostlers knowing the driver had used the whip.

British Columbia Historical News Page 7 On the Cariboo Road, 1884

The regular mail stage took tour days to travel workings, tailings, waterwheels, props, the 280 miles from Ashcroft to Barkerville at an windlasses, shafts, mines, stores, houses, average speed of six miles an hour. The Cariboo restaurants, and saloons. Road was not paved, nor had it been topped with Francis Jones Barnard retired in 1879, and Steve gravel, so in the spring and at certain other times Tingley took over the running of the BX of the year it was so muddy (gumbo) that Company. In 1886 Steve Tingley bought out stagecoaches would sink to the axle. In spite of Frank Barnard. Over the remaining years of the the inconvenience of travel, passengers paid stagecoach era Steve Tingley was assisted by $42.50 in winter and $37.50 in summer to make many well-known drivers such as J.B. Leighton the trip to Barkerville, and were allowed a and Al Young. The last mail run was made in maximum of forty pounds of baggage. October 1915. (Steve Tingley died in 1919.) The Between 1863 and 1865 the Cariboo Road last passenger run was made in 1921. The horse ended at Soda Creek. The sternwheelers, drawn stagecoaches had ruled supreme in the beginning with the SS Enterprise in 1863, used to Cariboo for fifty years, but they were now about travel up the Fraser River to Quesnel and as far as to be displaced by the railways and the the present city of Prince George. This river route automobiles. A well preserved BX Stagecoach is was discontinued in 1921. For eighty years, until presently on display in front of the Exeter Arms 1947, a flour mill was located at Soda Creek, Hotel at 100 Mile House. which obtained its name from the nearby creek Following World War I freight was hauled by which runs over a deposit of carbonate of lime solid rubber-tired, chain-driven trucks. The and bubbles like soda water. By 1865 the driver was usually accompanied by a swamper stagecoaches were running into Barkerville whose duty it was "to give every possible which was by this time a 'hodge podge' of assistance" to get the truck up the steep hills and

PageS British Columbia Historical News through the gumbo that was very common following a rain or melting snow. The wheels would have to be blocked if the truck stalled. In winter several cowhides were carried on top of the freight. If the truck was in danger of stalling or skidding, the swamper was expected to jump out and quickly place a frozen cowhide in front of the rear wheel to give it some traction. As the wheel passed over the frozen hide the swamper had to remember to duck as the hide shot out Quesnel • Barkerville from behind the wheel like a kite. He then quickly retrieved the hide and repeated the procedure until the driver had nursed the truck British Columbia • Soda Creek up to the snowy, slippery summit of the hill. v Horsedrawn stagecoach travel was coming to Cariboo an end in 1919 as the Pacific Great Eastern Railway was being built to provide another means of entering the Cariboo. Williams Lake thus far had been by-passed as far as the Cariboo Road was concerned, due to an unfortunate quarrel between the contractor and an early settler. In the early days the Indians called the Lake 'Columneetza' (meeting place of princely Lillooet m* people). The early settlement was called Borland, which became Williams Lake in 1920. In July of the next year fire destroyed much of Williams Lake. Although the PGE Railway was incorpor­ Harrison LakeVk • Yale ated February 27,1912, it did not reach Quesnel >Z>>. Hope until 1921. It was October 31, 1952 before the • ^ ;NeNew WestminsteWpstmin r service was extended to Prince George. The southern terminal was extended from Squamish to North Vancouver in 1956. Two years later, in » Victoria 1958, the northern terminal became Dawson I Creek. This provincially owned railway had rejuvenated the town of Williams Lake, which was incorporated as a village in 1929. The PGE rather chilly station waiting room. About 7:30 enabled the Cariboo to become an area of huge a.m. the waiting passengers were met by the beef cattle ranches. At last, in 1932, the main genial Clarence Stevenson or one of his expert highway was built through Williams Lake, thus drivers—Hugh Higby comes to mind. They ending its somewhat partial isolation. would then be loaded into a large, comfortable In 1923 Clarence Stevenson and Norman car (circa 1930 Studebaker) that would carry eight Glover formed the I.T. (Interior Transportation) passengers making use of the 'jump seats' Stage Company, covering an area from Ashcroft installed between the normal front and rear to the northern Cariboo. Clarence Stevenson, as seats. The baggage was carefully stowed on the a youth, had driven a four-horse stage for the BX cartop racks for the trip up the Cariboo Road. Company from Ashcroft to Clinton on to Frequent stops were made en route to drop off Lillooet, and later to northern Cariboo points. parcels and deliver passengers to their The advent of balloon tires had made motor destinations. Often, parcels and letters, and stage riding much more comfortable. sometimes passengers, were accommodated Half a century ago commuters travelling to the between the Mile Houses. Cariboo would arrive at Ashcroft by CPR train, Noticeable along the Cariboo Road were the from Vancouver and other communities, in the different types of split rail fences. The two most wee small hours of the morning, and spend an common were the Russell fences and the uncomfortable three or four hours in a small, snakerail fences. The latter type worked out at

British Columbia Historical News Page 9 approximately 2500 rails per mile and would last surfaced, paved, widened and straightened. for at least forty years. It was easy for the ranchers Frequent markers show where the old Cariboo to remove a panel and drive through their stock Wagon Road was once located. In a matter of rather than build gates. What a wealth of hours, in modern cars or buses, the traveller can knowledge Clarence Stevenson had gathered cover distances that a century ago took days. At about Cariboo history and how interesting he the end of the old Wagon Road (Quesnel to made the trip for the young teachers travelling to Barkerville is now Highway 26) the restoration and from their respective one room schools in and reconstruction of Barkerville began in 1958 the thirties! and continues little by little each year. What an At times during the year travel was limited to important part the old Cariboo Road has played night time because the then unpaved Cariboo in the development of B.C.'s history! It richly Road would freeze over as the temperature deserves the nomenclature of the Eighth dropped to well below freezing. During the Wonder of the World. warm sunny days the ground would soften and the layer of soft sticky gumbo made travelling difficult, and at times almost impossible. Up and T.D. Sale is Secretary of the BCHF, and a member of the down the Cariboo Road, and along the feeder Nanaimo Historical Society. He was a school teacher at 100 roads, old-fashioned phones, worked by a crank Mile House from 1935-1936, and at Springhouse from 1937- and the Morse Code (dots and dashes), complete 1939. with 'howlers', had been installed in a numberof homes. Since 'listening in' at the megaphone shaped 'howlers' was a common and accepted practice, the departure time and place of the I.T. Stage would be phoned out to the farthest point on the phone line. The passengers would miraculously make their way to the Stage's rendezvous point in time for the departure. Regardless of the hour of the day or night the trip down the Cariboo Road to Ashcroft was accompanied by many interesting stories and much singing. A welcome stop was always made Don't Forget! at Clinton where a delicious home cooked meal was enjoyed at the Bob Inn Cafe. Descending the Subscribe now if you're not hill to Ashcroft, the parting song was usually "The End of a Perfect Day". The final leg of the journey receiving the News regularly. was the CPR train trip to Vancouver. The I.T. Stage carried mail and parcels to Williams Lake and way points every Monday and Wednesday, and out to Ashcroft every Tuesday and Friday. Parcels earned the Stage Company a modest nominal charge. Errands were cheerfully done at Ashcroft, Williams Lake or Quesnel. In the twenty year history of the I.T. Stage Company there was never a serious mishap. On July 1,1943, the Greyhound Buses took over the routes served by the I.T. Stages, and Clarence Stevenson retired. The Cariboo Road has now become the Cariboo Highway and is part of Highway 97. Today Cache Creek might be considered to be Mile 0. The Cariboo Highway has now been

Page 10 British Columbia Historical News John A. Bovey Provincial Archivist The Provincial Archives of British Columbia

Part Two:

The Manuscripts and Government Records Division When people think of "archives" what they usually see in their mind's eye is something very close to the collections to be found in the Manuscripts and Government Records Division. Its holdings are the traditional, central, foundation stones of most archival institutions. But even in repositories which have holdings dating from the era of vellum, if not papyrus, the impact of twentieth century technology is being felt with rapidly increasing impact. It used to be possible to describe the holdings of the Manuscripts and Government Records Division as written records which, unlike books or articles in periodicals, had not been published. Readers who have home computers Fort Kamloops Journal 1860-1862 will realize that that definition is no longer quite adequate. Floppy discs and magnetic tapes, like the pen or the typewriter, can be used to the Provincial Government. However, we do document human actions, decisions and have some municipal records and copies of impressions, and will very shortly become part of relevant Canadian, British and United States our archives. But for the moment, our holdings records, including records of the Department of consist of paper records—or copies of them— Indian Affairs and the Immigration Branch, and it is those records which will be described Colonial Office despatches, and American here. Consular records. As its title suggests, the division collects two Records of the Government of the Province of kinds of records: manuscripts—the private British Columbia are selected for permanent papers produced by individuals, businesses and preservation in the archives through procedures organizations—and government records. Our administered by the recently formed Records aim in acquiring these records is to document all Management Branch, and approximately five aspects of the political, economic, social and per cent of all records generated finally end up in cultural history of the province. So far we have the archives. They are selected to document approximately 970 linear metres and 2000 major policy, legal, and administrative changes microfilm reels of manuscripts, and 3200 linear and are as necessary to the government as they metres and 2600 microfilm reels of government are to the historical researcher. The use of records. Collections range in date from the mid archival records by the Provincial Government in eighteenth century to 1984 and in size from a arguing the ownership of the bed of the Strait of single page to over sixty linear metres. Georgia and related areas is a case in point. Since we are the Provincial Archives, the bulk Amongst the earliest government records of our government records naturally are those of collected by the Provincial Archives were the

British Columbia Historical News Page 11 Before ... Government records at the Herald Street warehouse, ca. 1974. correspondence files and letter-books of the archives has tended to retain records it might Colonial governments of Vancouver Island and have rejected in the past. Trap line records for British Columbia, and the correspondence files Northern British Columbia, a recent acquisition, of government departments—of the Depart­ are an example of records which might seem ment of the Provincial Secretary and the rather routine but which in fact are a very useful Superintendent of Education, for example. "The source, not only on trapping, but on the Colonial Correspondence", consisting of letters Northern British Columbian and Native Indian inward to departments of the Colonial economies and on changing patterns in the governments from both individuals and wildlife populations. government officials, is an enormously rich At the same time as we have collected new collection. The letters from Gold Commissioners kinds of records, changing research interests describing their various districts form a have led to some of our older collections being particularly valuable source for local historians. used in new ways. Court Records form a good Correspondence files of ministries continue to example. Statements given by witnesses at be a strong part of our collection; the earlier preliminary hearings or inquests can provide ones often contain specific information—about insights into the lives of people who did not particular schools, for example—and all themselves create written records. document policy and administrative decisions. Unlike government records, manuscripts do Other types of records—tax rolls, company files, not come to the archives through an established pre-emption records, and probates—document procedure. In some cases, we contact potential particular transactions between individuals or donors; in other, very welcome instances, organizations and the government. people, businesses, or organizations get in touch As research interests have broadened to with us to ask if we would be interested in their include such areas as labour history, the records. Occasionally we borrow records, copy experiences of minority groups, women's them, and depending on the agreement worked history, and the changing environment, the out, return either the originals or the copy to the donor.

Page 12 British Columbia Historical News industry in British Columbia and on rural life in general. Recently, we have been particularly interested in papers relating to the history of education and have acquired the records of a number of independent schools. Business history is another field in which we would like to increase the strength of our holdings. In the past two years we have received some valuable lumbering and pulp and paper company records which complement the records we acquired from the Ministry of Forests in conjunction with their preparations for the celebration of the seventy-fifth anniversary of the British Columbia Forest Service. We have an interesting collection of mining papers, both in government records and manuscripts, but would like to acquire the records of more mining companies. W. Kaye Lamb, Provincial Librarian and Archivist from 1934 to 1941, noted in a speech delivered in 1935 that one effect of the Great Depression and the reawakened interest in gold mining was the increased use old gold mining records were receiving. It is interesting to see, on the fiftieth anniversary of his appointment, the same thing happening again. However much research interests change, or come full circle, and the kinds of documents we After ... Records sorted and safely encased in acid- collect change, the records we collect will remain neutral boxes in the PABC stacks. of fundamental importance to all of the people of the province. None of us can exist without a past. Government, like any organization, needs records Our manuscript collections include ship's logs, which document its legal, administrative and Hudson's Bay Company post account books and financial affairs; professional historians need journals, the letters and diaries of gold seekers, records to reconstruct and interpret our past; we pioneers, missionaries, surveyors and school are all likely at some point to want to find out teachers, medical case books, literary manuscripts, about our own family or town, or to pursue a the papers of natural historians and of researchers particular interest. into the origins of geographical place names. Amongst the most noteworthy are our large family Researchers are always welcome at the archives. collections: the McKenzie papers, which We hope in time to publish guides to the use of document the development of Craigflower Farm; our collections; in the meantime Manuscript the Crease collection, containing the correspon­ Inventories 1 to 3, published by the Provincial dence and diaries of Sir Henry Crease, his wife, Archives and available in public and university sons and daughters and covering a period from libraries, describe at least part of our manuscript 1839 to 1943; the O'Reilly Collection, like the holdings. Those who have not visited archives Crease Collection, a rich source for colonial before will receive information on specific period; and the Newcombe Family Papers, an collections and their use in Local History in British enormously valuable source for those interested Columbia: a guide to researching, writing and in the ethnology, archaeology or natural history of publishing for the non-professional by Maureen British Columbia. Cassidy (Technical Paper Series, British Columbia Heritage Trust) published in 1983, and available We are always interested in acquiring the from libraries or from the B.C. Heritage Trust, records of clubs and organizations: collections we Parliament Buildings, Victoria V8V 1X4 have received from Women's and Farmers' Institutes and from the British Columbia Editor's Note: In our last issue we incorrectly stated that Cattlemen's Association and the British Columbia John Bovey succeeded Willard Ireland. Allan R. Turner assumed the position of Provincial Archivist in 1974, when Fruit Grower's Association have added a great deal Willard Ireland retired. John Bovey succeeded Allan R. to the information we have on the agricultural Turner in 1979.

British Columbia Historical News Page 13 Douglas E. Harker

Jonathan Miller, One of Vancouver's Earliest Pioneers

In the 1860s the district of Cariboo, a remote area of British Columbia, produced enough gold to draw a surge of emigrants from all over the world. On June 4, 1862, one of the adventurers, Jonathan Miller, from the deck of the Hudson's Bay Company's steamer Enterprise, surveyed the small houses lining the bank of the Fraser River. They comprised the village of New Westminster, capital of British Columbia. Jonathan was twenty-eight, short, stocky, bearded, compact, with an air of quiet self- assurance and reliability that attracted trust. He had come from Delaware, Ontario, where his family had lived for three generations as prosperous farmers and leading citizens, and where he had been justice of the peace since the age of twenty-two. His father had expected he would follow the family pattern.1 But Jonathan had heard the call of gold and felt the promptings of adventure strongly enough to lure him away from his much loved wife Margaret and their two infant daughters to distant, largely unexplored British Columbia. For a month he had been travelling, by train to New York, by steamer to Panama, by rail across the Isthmus, by other steamers to San Francisco, Victoria, and New Westminster. He was entranced by the scenic wonder of this new country ... the immense trees, some two hundred feet high, the backdrop of massive Jonathan Miller 1834-1914 mountains, the meadows and the sparkling sea joined by the wide river. The capital city itself was not attractive. It was shut in by dense forest timber of the largest size. New Westminster had grown rapidly from a an incorporated city. John Morton, Sam Brig­ cluster of shanties to a settlement of three house and William Hailstone had ventured five hundred. It had a hospital, the Royal Columbian, hundred and fifty-five of their hard-earned a newspaper, the British Columbian, and three 2 dollars to buy five hundred acres of land close to rough unfinished roads to Burrard Inlet. Burrard Inlet. Later, their claim would include all Nearby, the winds of change were blowing of Vancouver's West End, from Burrard Street to that eventful year 1862. Fort Victoria had become Stanley Park, and from the Inlet to English Bay.

Page 14 British Columbia Historical News During his long journey Jonathan had heard life and led to his becoming one of Vancouver's stories of the gold rush, of its pitifully few leading pioneers. The event was a lawsuit beneficiaries, and of its many victims who had brought against him by Captain Stamp. Jonathan 'hurled their youth into the grave.' Moreover, was logging the 1000-acre peninsula which later the winter of 1862 was the severest within living became Stanley Park, but which was then a memory. Ships could not get up the Fraser River Military Reserve. Stamp had been given because of the ice. The capital city was isolated, exclusive timber rights over it, so he sued. the river frozen. Cattle and heavy carts could The suit was widely discussed in the little travel on solid ice from New Westminster to Yale. community of New Westminster. The area which The sufferings of the gold miners that winter Colonial Secretary Birch had handed over to were indescribable. Jonathan decided he would Captain Stamp was far larger than he could not hurry to join the four thousand miners who 3 possibly need or use. Moreover, he was an that year alone had invaded the Cariboo. irascible man whose domineering ways had It was not difficult to find employment. He made him many enemies. Most people favoured worked in a store, and he went with surveyor the unassuming young man from Ontario. They Alfred Waddington's crew to look tor a route included John Robson, editor of the British from the north end of Bute Inlet to the Cariboo Columbian and Governor Seymour. Stores and gold fields. It would have been 175 miles shorter, businesses closed early that afternoon in 1868 to but the terrain defeated them. The Coast Range enable as many of the townspeople as possible to of mountains, higher than the Rockies, the deep attend the trial and witness Stamp'sdiscomf iture.6 canyons, towering glaciers, dense forests and Though the judgment went in Jonathan's favour, rushing rivers were insuperable. It was only by he left the logging business soon after the trial chance that Jonathan avoided a massacre in and bought a farm in the Fraser Valley, but not which fourteen of Waddington's crew were before he had come to public notice as a strong, murdered by Indians in their construction camp steady man and a leader. in the Homathco Valley. On Burrard Inlet a little shacktown had grown In 1865 Jonathan became a lumberman. He up nicknamed 'Gastown'. Its first sale of lots had had come to the conclusion that British occurred in 1869. The following year it was Columbia's future was founded on timber rather surveyed into streets and blocks of land, and than gold. Before long, he had two lumber called Granville after the British Secretary of State camps on the shores of Burrard Inlet and for the Colonies. A townsite of twenty acres cut employed twenty men. He felt ready to send for 4 from the forest, it was bounded by three streets his wife and children. later named Carrall, Hastings and Cambie. The As Margaret stepped off the Enterprise, with fourth side was the shore, a crescent beach four-year-old Ada holding one hand and three- littered with boulders and seaweed where a few year-old Carrie the other, she must have found a white-washed buildings faced the mountains. disturbing contrast between the settled East and The town was dominated by the Hastings Mill the emerging West. New Westminster had which provided employment for mill crews and begun the year with a serious financial deficit. hangers-on, and was the focus for liquor and Governor Seymour who had arrived a few weeks gambling activities. Granville was a wild place, earlier reported to the Colonial Office: not safe, some thought, for a respectable family "... New Westminster presents a melancholy to live. picture. Many of the best houses are In 1871 a meeting took place between Captain untenanted. The largest hotel is to let. J. Raymur, Stamp's successor at the Mill, Sew. Decay appears on all sides and logs of the 5 Moody and 'Gassy' Jack Deighton, proprietor of fallen trees block most of the streets..." Granville's largest saloon and regarded as Fortunately for British Columbia and posterity, Vancouver's founding father. The meeting there were in the capital city and on the Inlet concerned the lawless conditions on Burrard some men of rare vision and ability such as editor Inlet. John Robson, mill operators Sewell Moody and Edward Stamp, logger Jeremiah Rogers and ...At present the Inlet is a scene of others whose courage and endurance built the drunkenness and savage violence on the province. Jonathan was of their number. His part of the Indians. They continually teams hauled logs for the mill owned by Sew. threaten the lives of white men and recently Moody, and it was while he was so employed that have committed one murder and have an event occurred that changed the course of his attempted another on whites, beside

British Columbia Historical News Page 15 innumerable acts of violence on each Then suddenly came an electrifying change in other..." the circumstances and prospects of the people of So wrote Tompkins Brew, Deputy Collector of Burrard Inlet. Ever since the coming of the Customs to the Colonial Secretary in London. Canadian Pacific Railway had been first mooted, Without doubt whites were equally culpable.7 its western terminus had been the subject of hot Raymur, Moody and Gassy Jack considered the debate and keen rivalry among several appointment of a constable to be of paramount competing localities. Would it be at New importance. All knew Jonathan Miller and Westminster, Esquimalt or Port Moody? The last believed him to have the necessary qualities to named was the most favoured. When the rumour bring law and order to Granville. They took their spread that the CPR would have its terminus at recommendation to higher authority. none of these places but at Granville, the impact It was F.C. Claudet, a young Englishman sent was immediate and immense. CPR President out by the Colonial Office, and at that time filling William Van Horne changed its name to in as stipendiary magistrate in New Westminster, Vancouver. A committee was appointed to draw who took action. There had been a savage fight up an act of incorporation for the new city and on one of the ships. Acting without official met at the home of Hastings Mill manager sanction, Claudet appointed Miller constable Richard Alexander in January 1886. A petition and government agent for Granville, at a salary of was sent to the Legislative Assembly of the $50 a month.8 The British Government confirmed Province of British Columbia requesting a the appointment and built a Court House with a charter and first election of a mayor and ten jail about as big as a large cupboard. It stood on aldermen. Jonathan Miller was named returning Water Street flanked by two saloons, Gassy Jack's officer by acclamation. One hundred and and Ebenezer Brown's. A few yards away was the twenty-five persons signed the petition. famous maple tree where notices were posted May 3, 1886, was the day of Vancouver's first and impromptu meetings held. election. Two men competed for the office of Jonathan and Margaret were pleased to leave mayor. One was Richard Alexander, whose wife the isolation of the farm. Their five children was the first white woman to live in Granville, and would now have others to play with. Though the son Henry the first white child to be born there. Inlet was still regarded as a wild, inhospitable Alexander, a stalwart Scot, had travelled as a place with a climate as savage as its terrain and youth across Canada with the Overlanders, and occupants, Jonathan had strong faith in its had survived great perils, including the feat of potential. swimming one mile in icy waters when his canoe Jonathan's duties far exceeded those of a capsized. An exceptional scholar and a natural constable in today's sense of the term because he leader, he had been educated at Edinburgh was the only officially appointed Government Academy and Upper Canada College. As mill agent for the community. For the next twelve manager, he had been involved in all the years there were about twenty-five houses and developments on the Inlet for the past fifteen seventy residents.9 During those years he saw a years, and the instigator of most of them. He was school opened a hundred yards from Hastings expected to win the mayoralty contest with Mill. His children attended it and he became a ease.11 Surprisingly, the result was otherwise. school trustee. He also found a job for his The other candidate was Malcolm MacLean, a brother-in-law, Ben Springer, Margaret's broth­ comparative newcomer who had come from er, who had come from Ontario to join them, as Winnipeg to join his brother-in-law, A.W. Ross. an accountant at Sew. Moody's mill. As a CPR land adviser, Ross had foreseen the coming boom at Granville and started a real But life was primitive in spite of the efforts of estate business there. MacLean had not even the hardy pioneers to maintain civilized been invited to join the committee which had standards. There was no electric light. Groceries won incorporation for Granville five months had to come from Victoria, and their arrival was earlier.12 haphazard. There was little public transportation. Four hundred and sixty-seven electors, all The corduroy roads were uncomfortable and men, placed their ballots. Few could claim a dangerous. Not until 1876 did Granville have year's residence but all had been householders direct communication with New Westminster or or leaseholders for at least six months. No the neighbouring community of Brighton, four Chinese or Indians were entitled to vote. and half miles away.10 MacLean won the election by 242 votes to

Page 16 British Columbia Historical News First Meeting of the First City Council

Alexander's 227. The newcomers had triumphed though there was no cash to deposit, a coroner, over the old-timers. city engineer, fire chief and other civic officers, Alexander's supporters protested. MacLean, including a lamplighter and two scavengers. they said, had been nominated by one Angus C. Jonathan's various duties as Government Fraser, but the said Fraser was not at the time of Agent and constable were divided among the nomination a resident of the city of several officials of the new city. He received a Vancouver. Nothing came of the protest which different appointment, that of Vancouver's first was strongly opposed by Richard Alexander and postmaster. Since the Vancouver Post Office MacLean became Vancouver's first mayor.13 would now become a distributing point for MacLean was a fluent, forceful man, much Chinese, Japanese and Australian mail, the travelled, of the utmost integrity and dedication. position was clearly important and required a He worked without a dollar of salary for the first first-rate administrator. In recognition of the year, furnished his own desk and his own hard work involved and the post office's postage.14 On May 10th, 1886, he held his first undoubted future growth, Jonathan was given Council meeting. Jonathan's tiny courthouse was one boy assistant. (By 1904 the job required an stretched to the limit as aldermen and officials assistant postmaster and thirty-four clerks!) trooped in. John Innes' well-known picture "The On May 14th the mayor called another Builders" portrays the scene: thirty men with meeting, this time to arrange for the celebration high collars, dark suits and serious expressions of Dominion Day. Jonathan, who was of Empire are crowded around a table. A kerosene lamp Loyalist stock, headed the committee. swings from the ceiling. MacLean is in the centre Vancouver's population had soared to nine exuding confidence and Jonathan at his left, hundred. Lavish plans were made to celebrate white-bearded and looking older than his fifty- the day as never before.16 But a momentous and two years.15 The mayor appointed a treasurer, tragic event held those plans in abeyance for

British Columbia Historical News Page 17 over a year. During the morning and early wrapped the twenty barrels of blasting powder in afternoon of Sunday, June 13, 1886, Vancouver wet blankets, set them on his dray and drove his was consumed by fire. team at breakneck speed into the waters of False Though no one can state with certainty, the Creek.18 Great Fire is generally believed to have started in The other hero, acting City Clerk Joseph the CPR townsite, a six-thousand acre clearing, Huntly, set himself the gruesome task of looking stretching from the high ground west of Water for persons reported to be missing. A makeshift Street (above today's Victory Square) to the morgue was set up at the north end of Cambie forest edge (Burrard Street). Blasting and burning Street Bridge. Huntly bivouacked with the other of slash went on there every day of the week and refugees at the south end.19 the townsite was perpetually carpeted with a According to the 1887 Vancouver Directory, dense mass of dry, fallen trees. Suddenly, on that the pioneers re-built "with many points of fateful morning, an extremely hot day, a superiority". One million dollars was spent on southwest gale of almost freakish intensity "buildings of every description including twenty- sprang up. At once the sky was obscured and the five boarding houses and hotels, one of them a air became one mass of fiery flames, driven on by palatial hotel for the Canadian Pacific Railway, the gale. The black bitter smoke of burning gum four churches and several schools." Jonathan and pitch brought instant suffocation to many. Miller was one of five trustees who helped form Others had no chance to escape the great the Vancouver Electric Illuminating Company, tongues of fire that swept down on them. and less than two months after the Fire, electric Most of the Miller children were at home lights were turned on in Vancouver for the first getting ready for Sunday School. Nine-year-old time. The City's business was conducted in a tent Walter had gone ahead to help Father Fiennes- until Alderman David Oppenheimer persuaded Clinton ring the bell at St. James' Church, this the city fathers they could debate more comfort­ service being Walter's particular privilege. ably at the back of his warehouse.20 Almost immediately, the Miller's house was on fire. As Margaret saw her domain being totally The great day came, May 23, 1887, when the destroyed before her eyes, she was transfixed— first train from Montreal, with baggage car, unable to move or utter a word. Somehow the colonist sleeper, first-class pullman, and dining children propelled her into the street. Their car steamed into Vancouver. Public enthusiasm father, conscientious as ever, had been working knew no bounds. Hundreds gathered at the at the Post Office, which that week had been station. There were cheers for New Westminster, moved to a small building on Carrall Street. They cheers for Victoria, cheers for the Queen. saw him running towards them, carrying in front Streamers floated across the track inscribed, of him a big black cashbox. His spectacles lay on "Confederation Accomplished", "Occident top of it. Solemnly he said to Margaret: "I've greets Orient", and "Our National Highway". saved my glasses". Mayor MacLean, elected for a second term, read "I've saved my prayer book," replied an address to Harry Abbott, General Superinten­ Margaret. It was her first utterance, spoken very dent of the Pacific Division of the CPR, recording faintly.17 the "high appreciation of the citizens of Several steamers were already engaged in Vancouver".21 taking refugees across to Moodyville (today's North Vancouver), and Jonathan got his family One year to the day after the Great Fire, SS embarked on one of them, the Senator. By early Abyssinia, chartered by the CPR, arrived from the afternoon they were all safely with their relatives, Orient with a cargo bound for London, marking the Springers, who lived in a big house on the the commencement of trans-Pacific trade using heights above Sew. Moody's mill. The house had the new railway. Vancouver was made a customs electric lights, a luxury not yet enjoyed on the port of entry. Before long the Empresses would mainland. Eight young Millers and six young be steaming majestically into its harbour. Their Springers bedded down together that sad night. arrival was almost as important as the railway's. Two young men who were engaged to be The Post Office where Jonathan had been married to two of Jonathan's daughters busily working when Vancouver caught fire, had performed bravely that day. One of them, burned to the ground. Postal work was now teamster Harry Berry, rushed off to a shed right in carried on in more spacious quarters in the Lady the path of the fire where he knew explosives Mount Stephen Block at 309 West Hastings were stored. With the help of a friend, he Street. Jonathan built a house for his family next

Page 18 British Columbia Historical News for many years, though when Jonathan opened door, and after a brief stay there, moved to his new Post Office at Pender and Granville Burrard Street, a shady tree-lined boulevard Streets in 1895, by his express wish the electric running from English Bay to the Inlet. street car passed its door and enabled him to He was now a rich man. In its 1891 souvenir establish Vancouver's first letter-carrier service. edition, the Vancouver Daily World stated: Jonathan lived in Fairview for many years. He saw Vancouver suffer a temporary recession ...At the time the city was laid out Mr. Miller during the 1890s and be revived by the Klondike invested largely in property, a great amount Gold Rush. He put up money to salvage the of which he still holds. He is one of the World newspaper, and established his widowed largest property-holders here, most of his daughter, Alice Berry, as its assistant manager real estate being of the choicest kind. and organizer of the World Printing and Publishing Company, the owning company. The article went on to name Miller and Later Alice married Louis D. Taylor, publisher of Oppenheimer as patriarchs of the business the World and one of Vancouver's most community. enterprising mayors. Vancouver was indeed on the world's Jonathan's third son, Ernest, was the most commercial map. Its population in 1891 was prominent of his children. Ernest had been sent estimated at 15,522. Settlers came in a steady away to school at New Westminster Lome stream from Britain, the United States, the Collegiate, adjoining Bishop Sillitoe's residence Orient, and every part of Canada. Jonathan's at Sapperton. Fees were $4 per week for room fortunes advanced with the city's. In partnership and board, a further $1 for tuition and an annual with Thomas Dunn, hardware merchant and one $2 for fuel. For this sum, meagre even by the of Vancouver's first aldermen, Jonathan built the standards of the day, 'careful instruction' was Dunn-Miller Block on the south side of Cordova given in Reading, Writing, Spelling, English Street, the site of today's Army and Navy Store. It Grammar, Analysis and Composition, Book­ stood three storeys high, the largest and most keeping, Literature, Ancient and Modern attractive building in the city. It housed retail Geography, Use of the Globe, Drawing, stores, apartments, Vancouver's first library, first Chemistry, Philosophy, Commercial and synagogue, and the Electric Railway and Light Advanced Arithmetic, Algebra, Geometry, Company. Mensuration, Latin, Greek, Bible History, Liturgy Most men of Jonathan's financial stature lived and Ecclesiastical History. French, German and 22 in the West End which had become Vancouver's Music were Extras. fashionable district. However, he preferred to At this remarkable school, Ernest made a life­ live farther out. In 1895 he moved to the district long friend of Richard McBride, premier of of Fairview, so named by surveyor L.A. Hamilton British Columbia during some of its most when he first mapped the south shore of False prosperous years. When they met in later years, Creek. Jonathan's new house on the corner of McBride steered Ernest Miller away from the Birch and Alder Streets occupied an entire city practice of law into politics. He became MLA for block and provided a superb view of forest, sea Grand Forks, the best debater in the House, and mountains. Here he could run his three adviser to the premier and Member of the horses and have a residence large enough for his Council. Death at fifty-four cut short a career of family. Jonathan and Margaret were loving great promise. parents and seven of their children, though in In 1906 Margaret, Jonathan's loyal and loving their twenties and thirties, still lived with them in wife of more than fifty years, died. Their ten their four-storey mansion. In the grounds were children were scattered all over the province. His cottages for grooms and gardeners and even for brother-in-law and best friend Ben Springer, assistant postmaster John Harrison. who had shared most of his enterprises, had It was a happy life full of sports, games and been dead since 1898. Although Jonathan felt music, but access to town was not easy. Jonathan very much alone, at seventy-two he was healthy spurned the automobile which had arrived in and still working. Vancouver at the turn of the century. When the During twenty years as postmaster Jonathan Millers wanted to go to town they had to walk or had seen the Post Office moved five times, each ride in the phaeton. No tramcarcameto Fairview time to a larger and more elaborate establish-

British Columbia Historical News Page 19 10. Ibid. (The first road between New Westminster and ment. Vancouver was growing by two thousand Granville was completed in 1876.) people each month. The Hundred Thousand 11. "Petition for the Incorporation of the City of Club had predicted (correctly) that by 1910 the Vancouver," Vancouver City Archives. (McLean's city's population would exceed 100,000. Jona­ name is not included among the 125 signatories.) than decided a new and more fitting Post Office 12. Ibid. must be built before he retired. The building was 13. Vancouver Herald, May 28, 1886. constructed at 701 West Hastings Street, within a 14. The Shoulder Strap, Vol. 2, Tenth Edition, p. 87, as stone's throw of the shack he had hastily erected quoted in article by R.J. Templeton and J.S. Matthews, after the ravages of the Great Fire. Three storeys "Jonathan Miller, First Constable of Vancouver". (The high, built in the Edwardian baroque style, with title should be First Constable of Granville!) majestic columns and an elegant clock tower, it 15. "The Builders", John Innes' famed picture. Names are remained a landmark for fifty years. listed in article by R.J. Templeton quoted above, and on p. 66 of Morley, Vancouver. Jonathan did not wait for the opening which was twice postponed, but retired in 1909 aged 16. J.S. Matthews, Early Vancouver, Vol. I. seventy-five. Next year he came to Vancouver 17. Morley, Vancouver, p. 80. from California for the ceremony, and was 18. Ibid., p. 81. observed standing quietly in the background 19. Ibid., p. 83. while other civic dignitaries did the honours and 20. Eric Nicol, Vancouver, p. 83. accepted the plaudits. He was never interested in 21. Da/7y News Advertiser, May 24, 1887. public acclaim. 22. The Churchman's Gazette, November 1,1883. In 1914, the First World War heralded the end of an era, the end of Vancouver's golden years. One of the more than 60,000 Canadians slaughtered was Jonathan's oldest son Fred, who was fifty when he enlisted. Douglas Harker, North Pender Island, B.C., was formerly Towards the close of the year Jonathan, living Headmaster of St. George's School, Vancouver. He has in retirement in California, suffered a massive been a member of the Vancouver and Gulf Islands sections stroke. He was brought back to Vancouver and of the BCHF, and is currently Treasurer of the Gulf Islands Branch. died with eight of his children at his bedside, well pleased to be able to spend his last hours in the city on whose shores he had resided for fifty-two years, and for which he had done so much—a man who deserves to be remembered.

FOOTNOTES 1. Pamphlet: "Township of Ekfrid" (Middlesex County, Ontario Archives.) 2. F.W. Howay, "Early Settlement on Burrard Inlet," B.C. Historical Quarterly, 1937. 3. Margaret Ormsby, British Columbia, A History (1958), p. 186. Back Issues of the News 4. Reminiscences of Kathleen Kennedy, Jonathan Miller's granddaughter, now living in Vancouver, B.C. 5. Ormsby, British Columbia, p. 202. 6. A. Morley, Vancouver: from Milltown to Metropolis, p. 33. Back issues of the News can be ordered at $3.50 7. Tompkins Brew, Deputy Collector of Customs, to Colonial Secretary, London, 1869. Colonial each plus postage from the Editor. Correspondence, Provincial Archives of British Columbia (hereafter cited as PABC). 8. F.C. Claudet to Colonial Secretary, October 27, 1871, Colonial Correspondence, PABC. 9. Vancouver Herald, January 15, 1886 (first issue of first newspaper published in Vancouver).

Page 20 British Columbia Historical News News and Notes

The Canadian National Historical Association REGIONAL HISTORY PRIZES The Canadian Historical Association is pleased to announce that among the winners of its 1984 Certificate of Merit Awards are Lynne Bowen and the Coal Tyee Society of Nanaimo, B.C., and Mrs. Elsie Turnbull of Victoria, B.C. Mrs. Bowen and the Coal Tyee Society were honoured for Boss Whistle: The Coal Miners of Vancouver Island Remember in which Lynne Bowen skillfully wove over one hundred taped interviews, mainly collected by the Coal Tyee Society, into a lively and well-researched narrative of the working days of early twentieth century miners. Boss Whistle is a splendid example of how dedicated and informed local residents and a professionally trained historian can co-operate to produce a volume that is of Douglas and Elsie Turnbull interest to both the local community and students of working class life everywhere. Mrs. Turnbull was honoured for her many historical activities over the years. Her citation reads as follows: Mrs. Turnbull's name is closely tied to historical studies of the West Kootenay. She was instrumental in founding the West Kootenay NOMINATIONS? branch of the B.C. Historical Association and later served as secretary and president of the provincial association. As an historian in her own The Regional History Committee of the right she has published numerous popular Canadian Historical Association invites articles, two booklets, and two books, Topping's nominations for its "Certificate of Merit" awards. Trail (1964) and Trail Between the Wars (1980), These annual awards are given for meritorious which carefully recount periods of the history of publications or for exceptional contributions by Trail, B.C. and its close relationship with the individuals or organizations to regional history. Consolidated Mining and Smelting Company. Nominations, including a brief statement of why Her books are invaluable local references but the individual or organization is being have wider interest. As the Trail City Archivist nominated, should be sent to Professor Patricia noted, her second book is "a must for anyone Roy, Department of History, University of interested in Kootenay history and, on a broader Victoria, Victoria, B.C., V8W2Y2. To insure scale, the unique evolution of the industrial inclusion in the 1985 competitions, nominations company town in B.C." should be submitted by 15 November 1984.

British Columbia Historical News Page 21 INTRODUCING Writing Competition

The British Columbia Historical Federation invites submissions of books or articles for the second annual competition for writers of British Columbia history. Any book "with historical content published in 1984 is eligible. Whether the work was prepared as a thesis, or a community project, for an industry, or an organization, or just for the pleasure of sharing a pioneer's reminiscences, it is considered history as long as names, locations, and dates are included. Stories told in the vernacular are acceptable when indicated as quotations of a story teller. Please include the selling price of the book, and an address from where it may be purchased. Submit your book with your name, address, and telephone number to: British Columbia Historical Federation c/o Mrs. Naomi Miller Box 105, Wasa, B.C. VOB 2K0 Member-at-Large, Mary Orr Book contest deadline is January 31,1985.

Mary Gartrell Orr (Mrs. Donald Orr) was born There will also be a prize for the writer at Trout Creek Point, Summerland, a third submitting the best historical article published in generation pioneer, and has been actively the British Columbia Historical News quarterly involved with the preservation of Okanagan's magazine. Articles are to be submitted directly heritage for over twenty years. She is an to: Honorary Life Member of the Summerland The Editor, Museum Society, Life Member of the British British Columbia Historical News, Columbia Museums Association and Past Chair­ 1745 Taylor Street, man of the Summerland Heritage Advisory Victoria, B.C. V8R 3E8 Committee (presently secretary). Moreover, she Written length should be no more than 2,000 to has been one of the directors of the Penticton 3,000 words, substantiated with footnotes if Branch, Okanagan Historical Society, since 1966, possible, and accompanied by photographs if and on the Executive Council of the parent body available. Deadlines for the quarterly issues are of O.H.S. since 1977. She has served as President September 1, December 1, March 1, and June 1. of the O.H.S. since May 1983.

British Columbia Historical News Page 22 Bookshelf

Ninstints: Haida World Heritage Site. George F. Footprints: Pioneer Families of the Metchosin MacDonald. Vancouver: University of British District. Marion I. Helgeson, ed. Victoria, Columbia Press in association with the U.B.C. Metchosin School Museum Society, 1983. Pp. Museum of Anthropology, 1983. pp. vi, 60, illus. 316, illus., $17.50. (Available through Metchosin $8.95 paper. School Museum Book Committee, 505 Witty Beach Rd., R.R. #1, Victoria, B.C. V8X 3W9) George F. MacDonald, before he was called back to Ottawa to assist in the planning for the new Museum of Man building and then elevated to the directorship This book is a great smorgasbord: a rich array of of the museum, spent a year in teaching at both Simon offerings—some major, others trivial; some Fraser and the University of B.C. During the same international, others parochial; some ordinary and time, he completed the impressive inventory and other peculiar. description of Queen Charlotte Islands Haida poles Metchosin, lying athwart the Strait of Juan de Fuca and posts, Haida Monumental Art: Villages of the between the Lagoon, Royal Roads, and Becher Bay Queen Charlotte Islands (University of British never could boast the secure harbours or richer soils Columbia Press, 1983}, itself a monument to Haida art of Esquimalt and Victoria. Somehow nature had been and engineering. This booklet, published as a less kind, and its separation from the two hub-ports Museum Note of the Museum of Anthropology, is a kept it as a refuge for cottagers and beachcombers. generous expansion of the Ninstints section of the William Head, quarantine station-turned prison, book suitably altered for its purpose of singling out stood sufficiently far away from naval base and the Anthony Island village that UNESCO has colonial capital. Even Chief Trader James Douglas of designated as a World Heritage Site. the Hudson's Bay Company had thought it lesser. In The booklet describes the Haida and their Kunghit 1842, he wrote of Metchosin (and spelled it that way) branch who occupied the site, the village itself as it that it was "an open Roadstead, One and a Half Mile stood in its nineteenth-century prime, and continues East of the former Port [Sooke]. It is a very pretty Place, with a solid section on contact with Europeans, mostly and has a small fresh water Run near it. There is dedicated to the violence of the maritime fur trade however, no Harbor, and the Anchorage is much period. MacDonald then devotes a section to Tom exposed, and must be insecure in Rough Weather. In Price, the last Ninstints head chief, who, with the rest addition to that Disadvantage the Extent of clear of his villagers, abandoned the remote Ninstints to Ground is much too small for the Demands of the gather with other Islanders at Skidegate or Masset. large Establishment, and a great Part of what is clear is Price was an important artist, especially in argillite. poor, Stony Lands with a rolling Surface, so that on the Finally, MacDonald gives us a brief, moving history of whole it would not do for us." (p. 16) the effort to salvage the monumental art of Ninstints, But it did do for many others. Take Mary Ellen Tufts first by removing the best poles to museums in (Argyle) for instance. Of pilgrim stock, her family's Vancouver and Victoria, and more recently by name was given to a great Massachusetts university. attempting to prolong the life of the decayed poles Ellen forsook all that, went to Sapperton, B.C. via the and houseframes in Ninstints itself. The booklet Horn and married the Royal Engineer Thomas Argyle. contains over sixty photographs, some in color, and They spent most of their hazardous lives tending the several drawings, excellent for their purpose of light at Race Rocks with their nine children, their only reconstructing the village as it stood in mid-century. neighbours being the barking sea lions and noisy MacDonald's knowledge of Queen Charlottes seagulls. The rain supplied their fresh water. archaeology, anthropology and ethnohistory is not to Or take Yorkshire-born John Ash, M.D. Educated at be faulted. We are indebted to him and to the Guy's Hospital, London, he came to the Cariboo rush Museum and UBC Press for this handsome and but found real estate speculation and colonial politics informative publication. more profitable. Let Doctor John Helmcken's manuscript Reminiscences tell their own lively tale. Anyone could have had a dispute with Amor De Douglas Cole, who teaches History at Simon Fraser Cosmos and Ash was no exception. They had University, has written extensively on West Coast art quarreled in the Bird Cages and the affair continued and anthropology. outside.

British Columbia Historical News Page 23 The House being over, Ash met De Cosmos Helgeson, nee Minns, and her army of writers outside, and near the bridge an altercation took deserve great credit for this handsome and place and blows were struck. De Cosmos always fascinating offering. carried a stick and Ash asserted this had been used on his head. I came up at that time and with Barry Gough, a professor of History at Sir Wilfrid the aid of others induced them to go their way, Laurier University, is the author of Gunboat Frontier, for Ash had his 'monkey up' and was able fo the last volume in a trilogy on British Columbia throw De Cosmos over the bridge. I induced maritime history. Ash to walk with me up Bird Cage walk—and there he found his face bleeding and his glasses Floodland and Forest: Memories of the broken. Oh. I said, here is a nice clean pool of Chilliwack Valley. Imbert Orchard. Victoria, water, let me wash the blood off At this he Provincial Archives, 1983, Pp. iv, 92, illus., $4.50 flared up; did I want fo make him a spectacle in and Growing Up in the Valley: Pioneer the public street, and I thought he was about to Childhood in the Lower Fraser Valley. Imbert pitch into poor weakly me. He dm not, would Orchard. Victoria, Provincial Archives, 1983, Pp. not come into my house and walked growling to iv, 79, illus., $4.50. his own home on Fort Street. In the evening Governor Douglas met me, and said Mr. Speaker are you aware that your authority Any review of these Sound Heritage volumes must ceases when out of the House. You have no regretfully note that 1983 provincial budget cuts authority to interfere when gentlemen out of ended this series, produced by the Sound and your own jurisdiction wished to settle their little Moving Image Division of the Provincial Archives. difficulties. You had better have let them have it These volumes and their accompanying cassettes out—as it is neither is satisfied. I laughed at the have been important in attracting the public, Governor's grim humour—he had no love for especially modern youngsters to History and De Cosmos and vice versa—and probably invaluable in complementing historians' research in would have been inwardly pleased had Ash more traditional sources. pitched De Cosmos into the Bay! Imbert Orchards compilation of his 1960's CBC radio interviews with Fraser Valley old timers on Chilliwack settlement, and on pioneer childhood, illustrate the merits of the Sound Heritage An oculist of note, the province's first minister of publications. In Floodland and Forest: Memories of mines, Ash expired of apoplexy in Victoria in 1886. the Chilliwack Valley, he mixes documentary There were, too, the respectful Cogans of excerpts and interviews. Their range and his style help Dewdney Flats and the genteel, United Empire make History human as well as academically useful. Loyalist Arthur Clarks of Happy Valley Road. There Floodland and Forest includes charming versions of were men like George Brown, a good enough hunter summer battles with mosquitoes and Sunday-long in his time but careless enough (and he never did it struggles to get to church. Orchard points out the again) to hang a deer he had shot on his porch importance of Indians to the economy and society of overnight, a fine feast for a cougar. And there were Valley pioneers. He quotes Jack Henderson on the women like the fearless Mary Ann Vine who Chilliwack's four brass bands, including the branded a whisky-seeking Indian with her sizzling- Coqualeetza [Methodist mission school] band at Sardis and "a cracking good Indian band at the hot flat iron. There were the enlightened Wallaces, Landing reservation ... the result of the training whose four children—Bob, Mary, jack ana Laurie received at the mission school for young Indian boys made such Stirling contributions to British Columbia's at [St. Mary's Roman Catholic] Mission." educational and civic spheres. This is a book about places: "How Kangaroo Road Orchard's Growing Up in the Valley, another Got its Name" and of William Head—quarantine volume based on his CBC radio interviews of two station, leper colony, and federal medium-security decades ago, helps make them available to a new prison "probably the most shimmering bejewelled generation of the public and to print-oriented 106 acres that anyone could be locked into." (p. 217) historians. Orchard begins with three autobiographi­ We have snippets on the post office and school, St. cal accounts of boyhood in the southern part of New Mary's Church and Taylor Beach, Taylor Road; Westminster District. His subjects include boys of unhappily, however, nothing on that fine institution British, Indian and French-Canadian descent who Lester Pearson College of the Pacific. were involved with their families in logging and homesteading. The second half of the volume gives a This is not a systematically told story. Only the charming mosaic of girls' accounts of pioneer life. geography ties it together. Yet editor Marion Isabel

British Columbia Historical News Page 24 THE BRITISH COLUMBIA HISTORICAL FEDERATION

Honorary Patron: His Honour, the Honourable Robert G. Rogers, Lieutenant-Governor of British Columbia Honorary President: Col. G.S. Andrews, 116 Wellington, Victoria V8V 4H7 382-7202 (res.)

Officers President: Leonard G. McCann, #2-1430 Maple St., Vancouver V6J 3R9 736-4431 (bus.) 1st Vice President: Naomi Miller, Box 105, Wasa VOB 2K0 422-3594 (res.) 2nd Vice President: John D. Spittle, 1241 Mount Crown Rd., North Vancouver V7R 1R9 988-4565 (res.) Secretary: T. Don Sale, 262 Juniper St., Nanaimo V9S 1X4 753-2067 (res.) Recording Secretary: Margaret Stoneberg, P.O. Box 687, Princeton VOX 1W0 295-3362 (res.) Treasurer: J. Rhys Richardson, 2875 W. 29th, Vancouver V6L 1Y2 733-1897 (res.) Members-at-Large: Myrtle Haslam, 1875 Wessex Road, Cowichan Bay VOR 1N0 748-8397 (res.) Mary G. Orr, R.R. #1, Butler St., Summerland V0H 1Z0 Past-President: Barbara Stannard, #211-450 Stewart Ave., Nanaimo V9S 5E9 754-6195 (res.) Marie Elliott, Editor, B.C. Historical News, 1745 Taylor St., Victoria V8R 3E8

Chairmen of Committees: Seminars: Leonard G. McCann Historic Trails: John D. Spittle B.C. Historical News Ruth Barnett, 680 Pinecrest Rd., Campbell River V9W 3P3 Policy Committee: 287-8097 (res.) Lieutenant-Governor' Award Committee: Naomi Miller Publications Assistance Helen Akrigg, 4633 W. 8th Ave., Vancouver V6R 2A6 Committee (not involved 228-8606 (res.) with B.C. Historical News): Loans are available for publication. Please submit manuscripts to Helen Akrigg. JOIN Why not join the British Columbia Historical Federation and receive the British Columbia Historical News regularly? The BCHF is composed of member societies in all parts of the province. By joining your local society you receive not only a subscription to British Columbia Historical News, but the opportunity to participate in a program of talks and field trips, and to meet others interested in British Columbia's history and the BCHF's annual convention. For information, contact your local society (address on the inside front cover).... No local society in your area? Perhaps you might think of forming one. For information contact the secretary of the BCHF (address inside back cover).