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The Place: Singapore

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The Place: Singapore FROMFT: LE Peranakan pastels light up Joo Chiat Road in Katong; the Study in Keong Saik; at Tea Bone Zen Mind. Insider Tips Michael Chiang, playwright of Beauty World placeSINGAPORE PLACES WITH PERSONALITY Singapore's neighborhoods are as distinct and varied as the bloodlines pulsing through the city's multiethnic populace. KATONG is now the Malay Heritage Take public T his Eastern suburb has Centre (malayheritage.org. transportation. much to offer: picture- sg), and browse quirky shops perfect colorful Peranakan in Haji Lane such as local housing flats. Get all-day Resist Uber, and shophouses along Joo Chiat boutique Soon Lee (soonlee. breakfast at Flock (78 Moh Road; Singapore’s best rice sg) and home store Mondays Guan Ter.), croissants at Tiong instead hop on a bus noodles in spicy coconut milk Off (mondays-off.com). Bahru Bakery (59 Eng Hoon or train. It’s not just soup at 328 Katong Laksa St.) and of course coffee at cheap, but also (51 East Coast Rd.); and Chin LITTLE INDIA the famous Forty Hands Mee Chin Confectionary While this neighborhood (40handscoffee.com). Tiong efficient and easy to (204 East Coast Rd.), one of still suffers from a slightly Bahru Market (tiongbahru. navigate. the rare kopitiams (old-school poor reputation, it is one of market) has the widest and Catch a sunrise at LION CITY ROAR coffee shops) left in town. Singapore’s most culturally tastiest range of hawker food. Singapore DESPITE its diminutive size, the city- vibrant. Earn shopping cred O RCHARD by surviving a spree at 24- KEONG SAIK Botanic Gardens. state somehow keeps on growing. T he shopping hub of Asia hour Mustafa Shopping A mong the boutique hotels Here, a guide on what to eat, drink doesn’t need much of an Centre (mustafa.com.sg), and fine-dining restaurants Share the dewy and do now. BY MELANIE LEE introduction. Ion Orchard where you can find practically popping up are still plenty tranquility with (ionorchard.com) is a must- everything under the sun. of fun places for a bottoms joggers, qigong stop for all luxury brands; Far If you’re in Singapore in up. Potato Head Folk East Plaza (fareastplaza. October or November, a (pttheadfolk.com) has Studio devotees and dog- com.sg) has a wide variety of walking tour of all the streets’ 1939 lounge on its third level: ND; ND; walkers at this I M M edgy street fashion popular festive Deepavali lights and vintage seats and an intimate I 157-year-old UNESCO L with the young and young-at- decorations is a must. marble bar make for friendly heart. Need a break? Stroll interplay with the bartenders. World Heritage site. IXIANG up pretty Emerald Hill Road T IONG BAHRU The Library is a secret bar Catch a sunset at E A BONE ZEN W and have a leisurely afternoon Pegged as a hipster haven hidden by a bookshelf, and E Aura Sky Lounge. T tea at Tea Bone Zen Mind with indie bookstore you can only get to it with a (teabonezenmind.com). BooksActually (books password through its sister Though only on the actuallyshop.com) as its main bistro The Study (the-study. Luxe life at 6th floor of National the iconic Ion KAMPONG GLAM ambassador, the café-filled sg). For "healthy" cocktails, Orchard. O nce a Malay-Arab enclave ’hood centered around one of try Afterglow (fb.com/ Gallery Singapore, where the Sultan of Singapore the country’s oldest housing afterglowsg) where their Aura is my favorite lived, this area is remarkably estates is an architectural vegan-friendly concoctions comfortable with contrasts. delight with its Art Deco are made from fresh herbs, place to grab a RITAGE BOARD. OPPOSITE: Visit the old palace, which shophouses and retro public flowers and fruits. E lychee martini and H take in Singapore’s skyline anchored by TIONAL A N the iconic Marina Bay Sands. M; COURTESY OF THE STUDY; COURTESY OF I Marina Barrage. L HAPPY WALKING Listen to… URTESY OF I f you can bear the heat, the eight-kilometer O C Jubilee Walk trail (map and guide can be …music by young IXIANG E downloaded at nhb.gov.sg) is a leisurely way to get W acquainted with Singapore’s most iconic buildings, Singaporean IANG; H monuments and public art. The trail starts with musicians such as C the National Museum of Singapore and ends Charlie Lim, The at the Marina Barrage. Look out for the gold CHAEL I SG50 markers that line this trail—or download the Sam Willows and M Singapore Time Walk app: users just have to point Gentle Bones. your smartphone camera at certain landmarks to pull up information, archival images and Their stuff is animations for an interactive history lesson. heartbreakingly CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF beautiful. TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / AUGUST 2016 115 the / place / SINGAPORE The city's hottest trends HEIROT L E AND restAURATEUR L oh Lik Peng SINGLIT PICKS T hese recent books immerse you in the human side of Singapore. ▲ MG AG IE JOAN’S The Art of Charlie Chan D on't be daunted finding the Mediterranean Hock Chye by Sonny tavern's nondescript entrance in an empty Liew Hailed as a back alley. Once inside, you’re enveloped masterpiece by by a bustling crowd clamoring for tasty Publishers Weekly and plates such as roast Jerusalem artichoke winner of Book of the Year for Singapore Book and Manchego, and grilled Iberico pork Hawker food with jowl with cauliflower and prunes. Awards 2016, this maggiejoans.com; meal for two S$80. a modern twist graphic novel follows the life and work of fictional "Try Candlenut (candlenut. comics artist Charlie ISHERS; Chan over five decades. L Hotel Yan. com.sg; omakase S$65), a B U modern Peranakan P The Epigram Books AR; AR; restaurant that embraces B Collection of Best New LLINS Singaporean Short O old Nyonya recipes from C Stories: Volume Two grandmother. Their buah The South Beach. edited by Jason Erik DYNAMIC DINING RPER Lundberg A diverse A Just four of the newest eateries keluak (traditionally H spectrum of imagination powering the fast-paced food scene. cooked with chicken) is aesthetic complements the nearby and perspective from some of Singapore’s also offered with Wagyu artisanal coffee joints and the rest of this ▲ C HEEK BY JOWL most evocative voices. beef ribs." micro-neighborhood between Kampong Definitely read Jeremy C hef Rishi Naleendra (formerly of Sydney’s Glam and Little India. hotel-yan.com; Tiang’s “Toronto.” Tetsuya’s) has concocted a multicultural Instagram makes the doubles from S$157. rainbow of a menu with such dishes as ▲ RNEDPA ordinary look extraordinary Inheritance by Balli ISHING; COURTESY OF ocean trout with cucumber, yuzu and butter A refreshing collaboration between DP HOPSCOTCH OF COURTESY LECTION; T he ultimate L T HE SOUTH BEACH Kaur Jaswal An B milk, and duck confit with five-spice and Architects and restaurant group Grub OL U designer experience, this massive hotel's "The latest Instagram- C intimate family drama P HIP HOTELS chili caramel served with crispy waffles. results in this aesthetically-pleasing bistro friendly hangout is Chong trippy, playful interiors were about Singapore’s cheekbyjowl.com.sg; five-course set S$88. serving up comfort food with a local twist. T here's no shortage of new, super cool conceptualized by Philippe Starck. It’s Punjabi-Sikh community Witness the béchamel and Chinese Wen Ge Café (168 Telok LISTED with universal themes: EEPERS spots to bed down for the night. also big on customization, so you can N L U sausage-bursting leop cheong mac ’n’ Ayer St.; meal for two S$20), S choose accommodation based on your cultural traditions, cheese. redpan.sg; meal for two S$60. in an old 19th-century HÔTEL VAGABOND This is French needs. For example, Showcase Her, a societal expectations designer Jacques Garcia’s first boutique women’s-only room, comes with a facial and finding a sense of Chinese school. Photo hotel in Asia—and what a vibrant, colorful steamer and hair straightener. thesouth belonging. Set in the ◄ C AMP KILO CHARCOAL ClUB rapid economic growth I t feels like you're hanging out in opportunities abound one it is. Housed in an Art Deco heritage beach.com.sg; doubles from S$450. of the 1970s-90s. someone’s (big) backyard party at this chill since their table tops are building with Parisian-chic rooms and an outdoor eatery dishing out a slew of hearty artist-in-residence mingling with guests, S OFITEL SINGAPORE SENTOSA laid with vibrant vintage Sarong Party Girls by meats, carbs and desserts. A 30-kilogram it’s the perfect place for the bohemian-at- RESORT & SPA T his recently Peranakan tiles while heart. hotelvagabondsingapore.com; refurbished resort is a luxurious respite Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan pig is usually roasting on their self-made Taking its title from a spit. kilokitchen.com; meal for two S$80. their local grub is served doubles from S$259. from the main island’s hustle and bustle. Perched at the top of a cliff above Tanjong local term for Asian girls IGRAM BOOKS (2); COURTESY OF who date white men, the in cute floral, retro plates." P HTEO L YAN Industrial chic is all the Beach and surrounded by 10 hectares of E rage in Singapore, so it was only a matter tropical woodlands, this serene seaside book follows 27-year-old of time until a hotel decked in rustic iron resort also houses a huge spa that comes Jazzy in her rom-com and wood would emerge—and from the with a mud pool filled with volcanic mud quest to find a rich ang warehouse part of town no less.
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