SHOW ANGST BUILDS/2 EXPANDING M MISSONI WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • January 30, 2006 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Under Construction PARIS — Although he usually chooses historical fi gures as muses, John Galliano took a different route for Christian Dior’s pre-fall collection by showing off the dressmaking and construction behind his designs. He played with undone hems and rough, blade-cut details to create a work-in-prog- ress look, as shown with this wool bouclé-to-chiffon suit with a raw-cut hem and exterior darts. Leather bag and shoes. For more pre-fall, see pages 6 and 7. Tahari’s New World Accessories and More To Grow Brand to $1B By Marc Karimzadeh NEW YORK — Elie Tahari is taking on the world — fashion-wise and geographically. Tahari is out to build a $1 billion brand over the next five years and for fall will launch both a major accessories push and a men’s wear line. At the same time, he’s growing his network of freestanding stores with a new retail concept, expanding into international markets such as Europe and Asia and upgrading parts of his collection to hit higher price points. To support the growth, Tahari also will launch his first global advertising campaign this spring, which was See Elie, Page 10 PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 WWD.COM Show Pressure Building ashion designers here and pedes a designer from doing his shows have started on the fi rst WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear in Europe are starting to best work. Friday in February. Ffeel the heat. “It’s depressing to look at Donna Karan is a supporter The fall collections kick something that’s done and know of New York going fi rst, but she FASHION off here this Friday, and many that it’s not your best, and think has long been a proponent of designers are struggling with of how good it could have been a later show cycle, mainly be- Designers are offering dressed-up day options for pre-fall, from Oscar what they perceive is the ear- but you didn’t have the time,” he cause the early timing is more 6 de la Renta’s whimsical jackets to Valentino’s pieces with mink trim. liest-ever start to the runway said. “Because then it’s too late prone to problems with fabric season — Feb. 3, which is prov- and it’s out there forever.” deliveries and too far away from GENERAL ing to be particularly early for After his Vuitton men’s show, the selling season. American designers. Many of Jacobs was slated to rush back “It’s very hard, because of The world of Elie Tahari is expanding signifi cantly, and if all goes to plan, them have expressed the dif- to New York to prepare for his the fabrics,” Karan told WWD 1 it could be a $1 billion business within fi ve years. ficulties they’ve been having Feb. 6 signature show. However, in an interview last February. EYE: An eclectic mix of celebrities, socialites, artists and fashion folks getting fabrics in on time from a snag in Vuitton shoe deliver- “The European designers have 4 made the rounds at various parties in New York and Paris. Italy to be able put together ies threatened to delay his more time to get their fabrics. their collections. In the case Paris departure. Because of couture, and the ACCESSORIES: Bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings with pastel of Proenza Schouler designers “We are waiting, waiting, men’s shows, getting fabrics out 12 stones, pearls and yellow gold highlighted the JA New York Show. Jack McCollough and Lazaro waiting for clothes, and because to New York is tough.” INNERWEAR: There were some blockbuster hits at this month’s fall Hernandez, the late fabric deliv- of the dates being so early, every- Narciso Rodriguez told WWD 15 market, with luxury goods and fashion looks leading the way. eries forced them to reschedule one will get fabrics and samples earlier this month: “Something their show to the Thursday of at the last minute,” Michael Kors has to be done about that be- M Missoni is on a roll, and now it’s capitalizing on the momentum by fashion week to allow for some said. “Fall collections are al- cause it’s really unfair to 16 opening its own stores, with New York the fi rst this spring. extra time. ways a push, much more so than American designers that we Men’s sportswear and neckwear designer Henry Jacobson is launching Perhaps the most vocal critic spring. If you look at the calen- have four weeks to put our en- 19 his fi rst collection of women’s wear for fall selling. to emerge is Marc Jacobs. dar, the timing with Christmas tire fall collection into work and are depending on fabrics As the mergers and acquisitions market keeps up its dizzy pace, retailers that will arrive at the end of 22 face challenges that go beyond the impact of consolidation. January, beginning of February. Fall collections are always a push, Last year, the show was a week Obituary...... 24 later and we received some much“ more so than spring. On top of it, fabrics a week after the show, Classifi ed Advertisements...... 25-27 which we couldn’t use, and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. there was a major snowstorm in Milan that’s very frustrating because you put a collection based on [email protected], using the individual’s name. [on Friday], and the city is at a standstill. everything you are using. It’s WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- just not right.” RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 191, NO. 20. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- There are no planes fl ying, you can’t get Behnaz Sarafpour said ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- Friday that the time between the ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, fall and spring shows is already Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers bags, shoes, clothes out. I think there will Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and shorter and more challenging, a C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; be a lot of late nights. fact that has only magnifi ed with David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior the earlier start. Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance ” — Michael Kors “But we are in a situation to Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. have to cope with it,” she said. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable “It puts me in a position of hav- Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, “Whoever moved those shows thrown in the middle, it’s always ing to put pressure on who de- ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR dates up in New York should be a real crush. On top of it, there livers to me. All it does is push DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four executed,” he said last Thursday was a major snowstorm in Milan into a frenzy and you have to weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other night at a dinner to celebrate [on Friday], and the city is at a call U.S. Customs every day and U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. his new collection store in Paris, standstill. There are no planes your mill every day and pres- First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, less than 24 hours before his fl ying, you can’t get bags, shoes, sure and push them to make and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions Louis Vuitton men’s wear show. clothes out. I think there will be things a few days earlier.” and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make “I’m stressed and exhausted.” a lot of late nights.” It’s not just the New York our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Jacobs, who juggles multiple While everyone laments the designers who are feeling the interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise men’s and women’s runway and earlier start, it may just be fash- crunch either. us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- pre-collections for his signature ion’s version of a windchill. Last “We’re going crazy,” Stefano SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- house and Louis Vuitton, said year, the fall collections began on Gabbana said. “We just had the ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, the time crunch ultimately im- Feb. 4. In the past few years the men’s runway shows for the OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED first line and for D&G, next Wednesday we’re presenting the main line, we’re working ONE POINT. MANY RESOURCES. on the women’s runway show, MONDAY: New York Fall Apparel Market (through coordinating the accessories Feb. 17). collection, choosing spring fabrics and working on resort. WEDNESDAY: Pitti Filati, Florence (through Friday). Consultants to the It’s one big blur. For design- Jewelry & Watch ers who seriously work on the THURSDAY: Prêt-à-Porter Paris, Eclat du Mode/ Industry clothes, everything is too close Bijorca, Premiere Classe, Who’s Next, Pick & Mix together and too early. Even and Salon International de la Lingerie & Interfi liere the manufacturers are in a cri- (through Sunday). sis because they can’t meet all Avon Products reports fourth-quarter and year-end our deadlines. I think that the sales and earnings. shows in every city should be Sara Lee Corp. reports second-quarter sales and pushed down by at least one earnings. week because even the press gets caught in this vortex.” FRIDAY: Olympus Fashion Week, New York (through Mergers & Executive A Giorgio Armani spokesman Feb. 10). noted: “Milan Fashion Week is The U.S. Labor Department releases the January Acquisitions Recruitment essentially in line with last employment report. season’s. We swapped Giorgio Armani with Emporio [Giorgio SATURDAY: StyleMax, Chicago (through Feb. 7). Armani shows on Feb. 20 and London Edge (through Feb. 6). Emporio is scheduled for Feb. Connection to COMING THIS WEEK 22] so it’s really not that differ- SUNDAY: Clear, New York (through Feb. 7). Valuable Resources ent. The New York shows in- CPD Düsseldorf (through Feb. 7). stead seem remarkably early....I really think the various govern- ing bodies should connect more with one another. For, example, lots of editors were complain- Correction ing about the week-long break between the men’s wear shows In his new role as Bloomingdale’s executive vice president for 350 Fifth Ave. P (646) 473-1640 in Milan and Paris. It doesn’t creative services, Jack Hruska will be in charge of store plan- Suite 5614 F (646) 473-1643 make sense.” ning and store design as well as all creative aspects of market- New York, NY 10118 www.kaisertime.com — Marc Karimzadeh, ing. The scope of his assignment was unclear in a story on page New York, Miles Socha, Paris 13, Friday. and Alessandra Ilari, Milan WW :50:55 PM

Alessia Re Alexis Bittar Bagteria Basia Design Carlo Alberto Carlos Falchi Cassin Corpus Christi Courtney Crawford De Couture Elia Stone For retailers who appreciate exclusivity. Francesca Giobbi For designers who require exclusivity. Gnerre The answer is clear. GM Collections Hunting Season + Accessories and Footwear. Iosselliani Gotham Hall during Fashion Week. Jessica Palazzo Kara Mia + Monday - Wednesday Kenjiikeda February 6 – February 8, 2006 Lorenza Gandaglia + Gotham Hall Margot Michon Jewelry 1356 Broadway @36th Street Pashma or 985 Avenue of the Americas @36th Street Reinhard Plank (a few short steps from Bryant Park) Splendid for Live Wear 4 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 WWD.COM Worldly Goods NEW YORK — In the new book “American Vertigo,” Bernard-Henri Lévy describes touring across America, visiting prisons and megachurches and interviewing everyone from Sharon Stone to Barack Obama. By contrast, the guests at his book party at Diane von Furstenberg’s studio Jan. 23 were slightly less eclectic, but not much. There were fashion people (Oscar and Annette de la Renta) and media elite (Graydon Carter and Charlie Rose), party fi xtures (Amanda Brooks and Padma Lakshmi) and artists (Francesco Clemente). A few of the guests even seemed to be ripped straight from the headlines. Oscar de la Renta Lapo Elkann, the Fiat heir who overdosed last and Lapo Elkann Jena Malone year, made a rare public appearance and wound Act Sister up eating dinner just a few seats down from Carter, whose magazine, Vanity Fair, NEW YORK — Glancing at actress Jena Malone’s jam-packed currently has a big exposé on him. And former New York Times executive editor Joe résumé, one could be forgiven for thinking the girl has a Lelyveld had a warm exchange with Judith Miller, who was eager to tell him about religious bent. She was a pregnant teenager grappling with her the “eight thousand things” she’s been able to do since leaving the Times, including faith at a Christian high school in the 2004 “Saved,” a troubled a recent trip to Antarctica. Catholic schoolgirl in “The Dangerous Lives of Altar Boys” and, Stephen Sondheim was also in the house, and was eager to say hello to Lauren since her Broadway debut two weeks ago, a confl icted nun in Bacall. “Here comes one of my father’s models,” he said. Turns out, Bacall had been John Patrick Shanley’s Tony award-winning play “Doubt” at the a fashion model for Sondheim’s father, Herbert, who had a long career on Seventh Walter Kerr Theatre. Avenue as the owner of a dress company. “I was a terrible model,” protested Bacall. But such thematic coincidences are simply a testament to “I was terrifi ed and bony.” Malone’s inquisitive nature. The 21-year-old, precocious and Three nights later, the crowd at the Winter Antiques show’s Young Collectors preternaturally wise in person, attended Sunday school only Night at the Seventh Regiment Armory was more about the ladies — Jennifer Creel, a few times as a child. And it was her desire to break into Coco Kopelman, Emilia Fanjul, Susan Fales-Hill, Samantha Gregory (who just theater, not the religious subject matter, that drew Malone to returned from a yoga trip to Mexico) and honorary co-chairman Delphine Krakoff, “Doubt,” in which she plays Sister James, a teacher torn over who came with her husband, Reed. whether to believe the school’s priest has sexually abused one But, while some perused the antiques regaling what was past, others were already of her students. lamenting the fashion week frenzy to come. Jane Lauder will accompany Serena “I loved the power plays and how she’s sort of the low Williams, a guest designer for Estée Lauder’s Flirt cosmetics line, to a handful of man on the totem,” she explains over an early sushi dinner runway shows. “It’s work,” she said with a smile. Diane von near the theater. Dressed in an old cardigan (bedecked with An ocean away, fashion’s fi nest trekked out to Furstenberg a strip of duct tape) and ripped jeans, Malone is recovering remote Bois de Boulougne in Paris for the annual from a fl u that caused her to miss her fi rst show. “She’s Sidaction AIDS benefi t gala — and a hot affair constantly fi ghting to keep her job, to keep her mind, to keep it was, literally. “Is it only me, or is it boiling her soul intact,” she says of her character. “And I found in here?” asked L’Wren Scott, who, under the that her journey paralleled the audience in a lot of ways in tablecloth, had hiked the pooling Edwardian the sense of her questions were the same questions that the lengths of her Rochas gown into a miniskirt. audience has.” “Someone should toss a plate through one of Certainly, Sister James’ naïveté and purity seem a far cry those windows.” from the darker, rawer material Malone has chosen since her The socializing went on despite the sauna-like fi rst movie, “Bastard Out of Carolina,” when she was 11. It was conditions. One of the rare times tout Paris mingles probably this very energy, though, that helped her stand out — bad blood and otherwise — it was a chance when director Doug Hughes began auditioning last fall (Malone to see Donatella Versace interact with Olivier takes over the role from Heather Goldenhersh). Theyskens, Lars Nilsson chatting up Loulou de la “I had a hard time recasting this part. We saw a number of Falaise, Carine Roitfeld wearing Givenchy couture actresses and all of them are very, very good, but there was a from Riccardo Tisci’s show the night before and particular value, a fi erce innocence that has to come naturally Emmanuelle Béart normally blasé fashion people get starstruck to the actress playing her,” Hughes explains. “I found that Jena by the sight of Catherine Deneuve or Marisa has that fi erce innocence that she brings to the role and has Berenson. “I’m in Dior couture, of course,” offered very much made it her own.” Berenson, who sat next to Sidney Toledano, Dior’s Malone, for her part, has relished the slight adjustments and president. Meanwhile, Pierre Bergé, the evening’s nuances of acclimating to the theater world and her new part. traditional ringleader, proclaimed it the best yet “The more and more I’ve done it, my voice is dropping for the fund-raising effort. “We need to build even deeper and it’s just feeling more right,” she says of her fi rst more momentum in this important fi ght,” he said. Jennifer Creel time on stage since the age of seven. “As in, I don’t have to play the innocence. The audience is already there. I am the picture of innocence when I step out on that stage.” In real life, the picture is very different. Born in Sparks, Nev., Malone moved around about 30 times throughout her childhood, raised by her mother, a theater actress, and her lesbian partner. At 14, she went to court to gain control of her fi nances and has been living on her own ever since. Since her teens, she has worked steadily (her upcoming fi lms include “Lying” with Chloë Sevigny and “The Go-Getter” with Lou Taylor Pucci), attended high school for just one year and moved to Lake Tahoe, where she bought a house at age 18. She is now close to both her mom and eight-year-old sister. Malone’s disarming maturity, sweetly set off by the “rads,” “awesomes” and “likes” that dot her speech, naturally extends to her self-assured take on Hollywood. She doesn’t employ a publicist, adamantly eschews makeup and fancy clothes in press appearances and wouldn’t be caught dead in her underwear on a magazine cover. “It’s not that I don’t like to embrace my femininity, because I’m learning that more and more, actually,” she explains, having bought 13 dresses in the past year after a lifetime as a self- avowed tomboy. “It’s an exciting thing to sort of dress up and wear makeup and stuff, which I had never really ever endorsed before. But if I am going to show many different faces to the Camille Miceli Donatella public, then I have to keep something for myself. And I’d much in Louis Versace rather put the most honest depiction of my face forward than a L’Wren Scott Vuitton at and Olivier Susan heightened form of reality.” in Rochas. Sidaction. Theyskens Fales-Hill — Vanessa Lawrence NEW YORK PARTY PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; PARIS PARTY BY STEPHANE FEUGERE; MALONE BY STEPHEN SULLIVAN BY STEPHANE FEUGERE; MALONE BY PARTY STEVE EICHNER; PARIS PHOTOS BY PARTY NEW YORK

6 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006

TailorCalling all Ladies Who Lunch.Made Designers are offering plenty of dressed-up day options for pre-fall, ranging from Oscar de la Renta’s whimsical jackets to Valentino’s luxe numbers with mink trimmings. Both tailored and sexy, these looks exude a feminine charm.

Oscar de la Renta Valentino

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Moschino Yves Saint Laurent

Valentino PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006

Christian Lacroix Jean Paul Gaultier

Number eight assignment at Jean Paul Gaultier.

Madonna arrives at Jean Paul Gaultier.

imageParis Couture bank PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE Anna Mouglalis Charlotte at Chanel. Rampling at Armani Privé.

Christian Dior WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 9 WWD.COM

Christian Lacroix

Hovering over Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel. Victoria Beckham at Chanel. Mischa Valentino Barton at Dior.

Avril Lavigne at Chanel.

Armani Privé

Swarovski

Christian Dior

Chanel 10 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 Elie Tahari Takes Continued from page one Silk satin photographed by Glen Luchford and features model Missy Rayder. hammered Sitting in his sprawling offi ce facing Bryant Park on West 42nd Street, bustier and Tahari, chairman and chief executive offi cer, and his wife, Rory, who is silk organza the label’s creative director, said the timing was right to make the leap. blouse. In 2003, Tahari sold his stake in Theory, which he launched with Elie Andrew Rosen in 1997, to Link International and Fast Retailing Co., and Tahari found himself with suffi cient cash to reinvest. His 2004 attempt to buy Barneys New York didn’t happen, but Tahari is now using some of that money to expand his own label, which is sold in more than 600 doors worldwide, including Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom and Macy’s West. “I always intended to make the highest-quality designer product, but I didn’t have the fi nancial resources or the right connections to accomplish this,” Elie Tahari said. “Since we sold Theory, we had the fi nancial resources. I also had the extra time to devote myself to these expansions and now we feel we’re doing it right. In the last two years, we have been investing in the product and this is only the start.” Department and specialty stores regularly cite the collection as one of the top sellers in the bridge area, where it is often positioned as a segue to the contemporary designers. According to Tahari, the label had wholesale sales of $500 million, which he explained was a good platform for future growth. Within fi ve years, Tahari plans to be a $1 billion company. Much of this growth is expected to come from the addition of the lucrative accessories cat- egories, as well as the brand’s growing network of signature stores. For fall, he is launching about 50 styles of shoes and 23 handbags, which echo many of the luxurious details that he has been incorporating into his sportswear. A men’s The shoes, for instance, are full of spe- wear look. cial touches inspired by antiques, such as Victorian pocket watches and decorative Jugendstil elements. One style features fi ne metal fi ligree work on the toe, which emu- lates lace embellishes, while another fea- tures a striated metal accent on its front. Specially developed leather stamp work appears throughout the footwear, either bordering an undersole, scrolling up a heel or decorating the sides of a platform. The Forties- and Fifties-inspired silhouettes, in- cluding fl ats, strappy high heels, round-toed platform pumps and knee-high boots, ap- pear in jewel tones like midnight blue, wine, camel and black. Materials include velvet, patent leather, silk moire, suede, leather and exotic skins like crocodile, python and a rare ring lizard. One shoe is designed in a wool and metal brocade, specially developed for the line. The footwear has suggested retail prices of $350 to $750, with some styles climbing as high as $2,000. Tahari didn’t want the aesthetics to reign over comfort, however. For the shoes, he de- veloped custom lasts to ensure proper foot balance. He also added cushions to cradle the ball of the foot. To enhance practicality, some shoes even fea- ture a protective, nonslip rubber patch hand-stitched to the sole. “I don’t wear shoes unless I’m com- fortable and I think women are get- ting smart and thinking this way as well,” Tahari said. “They want comfort and practicality along with beauty.” The handbag collection features custom-developed hardware and ma- terials such as soft Italian leathers, crocodile, sheared mink and Persian lamb. The lining echoes fi ligree detail- ing found in the footwear and apparel. The men’s wear has a luxurious but relaxed feeling, with cash- Silhouettes include a drawstring satchel mere coats and blazers, jeans and prewashed leather jackets. and a small half-moon shoulder bag with Despite the new categories, Tahari is being cautious about a fl ap closure. Suggested retail prices for the rolling them out. He said he intends to selectively launch them handbags range from $450 to $950, with some in “a couple of dozen stores in this country. We are starting very styles going up to $2,500. small, also in Europe.” “Women these days are buying the $4,000 bag and As Tahari’s assortment grows and diversifi es, the de- the $1,000 shoe to go with a pair of $200 jeans, and that signer is expanding his freestanding store network idea was very much a part of the conceptualization of the with a new concept to house his full range. In late [accessories] collection,” Tahari said. December, Tahari unveiled the concept with the The company sought out factories in Italy that work opening of a 2,000-square-foot store at Phipps with brands like Prada, Louis Vuitton and Costume Plaza in Atlanta. The boutique, designed by archi- National. tect Piero Lissono, has such details as Mondrian- “I needed to go the right craftsmen to be success- inspired fixtures and an opulent handmade ful with this product,” he said. “The fascinating thing Venetian glass chandelier. about Italy is that you go to a factory, and it’s run by “It’s a combination of good taste, great product maybe one family that only make buckles and belts. Sheared mink bag and and me being a Persian merchant,” said Tahari, But they will make the best buckles and belts, and that velvet ballet pump. referencing the 18-foot-wide retractable storefront is what I was after.” that is kept open during store hours, practically elimi- WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 200611 WWD.COM on New Territory nating the threshold in order to make it a less intimidating Sheared mink bolero, experience for shoppers. polyamide and rayon “The concept is infl uenced by our lifestyle,” Rory lace blouse and rayon Tahari said. “This is how we like to live....It’s easy and silk velvet skirt. luxury.” Two weeks ago, Tahari took the concept to Boston, where he opened a 2,600-square-foot store at Copley Plaza. It also features an 11-by-12-foot plasma screen that will show images of fashion shows, advertising campaigns and exclusive interviews with the designer. According to Tahari, both stores are already 60 to 70 per- cent over plan since opening. The two additions bring the number of freestanding Elie Tahari boutiques to fi ve. Waxed python bag. Tahari’s other three units are in Manhattan, East Hampton, N.Y., and at the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas. Elie Tahari didn’t say how many stores were planned for this year, but noted: “We would like to open a sig- nifi cant number of luxury stores in most luxury markets in the U.S.” At the stores, shoppers will fi nd a wider price range of Tahari mer- chandise than before. Until re- cently, the line was sold at retail from $60 to $1,000, but for fall, prices go up to $5,000 as a result of an increased focus on intricate details, such as beading and stitch- ing, and more luxurious fabrics like fur. The fall collection, for instance, includes looks such as a sheared mink bolero, a rayon and silk crushed velvet embroidered skirt, a An image from the washed leather jacket spring ad campaign. with grosgrain detailed hardware, a silk satin hammered bustier and wool and spandex her- ringbone trousers. By 2012, Elie Tahari anticipates having up to 200 freestanding stores worldwide, adding that he hopes to make the stores a destination for exclusive merchandise. The designer is also embarking on an inter- national growth strat- egy. This spring, he is tripling the amount of stores globally to include Selfridges in London; Harvey Nichols in London, Dublin, Dubai, Istanbul and Riyadh, Saudi Arabia; Printemps in Paris, and Lane Crawford in Hong Kong. For the fi rst time, he will also present his collection to interna- tional press and buyers during Milan Fashion Week, and to that end, has retained Stra Branding to represent the line in Milan. “International is a wide-open road for us,” Elie Tahari said. The company, which typically had some regional advertising, is launching a global campaign this fall to support its aggressive growth plan. Created in-house, the ads were photographed by Glen Luchford and styled by Lori Goldstein. The images are atmospheric, featuring Missy Rayder wearing pieces of the spring col- lection, and, at least in one image, not wearing anything at all. “I wanted it to speak to the sexy, sophisticated women that Elie designs for,” said Rory Tahari, adding she and her husband aimed for them to convey a cinematic feel. “Elie and I are obsessed with the movies and will go and see almost every movie.” The ads will break in March issues of publications such as W, Vogue, Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, Cookie, Vanity Fair and The New York Times, as well as European magazines such as Italian Vogue. A 20-by-50-foot billboard will go up on Broome Street here next month, followed by a 20-by-24-foot bill- board on West Broadway in March. There’s no doubt the designer is fi rmly laying the foundations for the future of his company, both fi nancially and personally: In his offi ce stands a miniature desk and chair with a calculator, a cell phone and BlackBerry, and even an award — all set up for his four-year-old son Jeremey and 18-month-old daughter Zoe. — With contributions from Jennifer Hirshlag PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 WWD.COM Jewelry Feature Temple St. JA Trade Show: Coming Up Roses Clair

By Sophia Chabbott other gemstones in a piece of jewelry],” said Steckel. “It makes the skin glow.” Slane NEW YORK — Fine jewelry is having a spring fl ing. Howard Levine, sales manager of London-based and At the JA New York Winter Show, jewelers featured brace- Euro Pearls, reported an increase in colored pearl sales Slane lets, necklaces, rings and earrings with pastel stones, pearls at the show. Pastel-colored pearl strands from Australia in updated interpretations and plenty of yellow gold. The and Tahiti are a new trend, according to Levine. show, held at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center here last Companies that typically hold off until Baselworld, week, was the fi rst presentation of new merchandise follow- the watch and jewelry show to be held in Switzerland in ing a holiday season that saw many vendors reporting dou- March, and the JCK show in Las Vegas in late May, met ble-digit sales gains. and tested out new products with regional stores “This season people are holding true to who they at JA. The show had a decrease in exhibi- are and what they are all about,” said Lauren tors from last year, to 965 from 1,010. Kulchinsky, buyer and vice president of Mayfair, “There was a buzz on the fl oor,” which has four retail locations on Long Island in said Drew Lawsky, show director for New York. JA New York. “A lot of [exhibitors use For many designers that meant color. Temple JA] to gauge how product sold over St. Clair’s new collection revolved around tur- the holiday season. It gives them the quoise, one of the designer’s favorite stones. opportunity to test new product in “Turquoise is a perennial spring-summer the fi rst 90 days of the year.” stone,” said designer Temple St. Clair Carr. Janice Winter, president of “It’s so vivid coming out of winter.” Judith Ripka, said: “JA is a good For spring she reconfi gured her trademark time to regroup and meet with rock crystal egg pendant with gold fi ligree and clients. We have a lot of strategic turquoise beads. Gurhan conversations with our clients, but Irene Neuwirth created a feminine collection this time people are coming in and restock- using various pink stones, including polished rose ing, which is rare in January. JA is a great quartz and pink cabochons set in brushed rose tool for spiking early spring business.” gold. The collection is Neuwirth’s largest to Local retailers benefi ted the most date, the success of which was refl ected in from the show by getting a head start her sales, she said. on the season ahead. “It has been an amazing show for Irene Neuwirth “We’re putting out our feelers me,” said Neuwirth. “I opened a lot of here before [the trade shows new accounts and the reception to the in] Europe,” said Lourdes new collection has been phenomenal.” Zeik-Chivi, owner of Leonardo Other prevalent stones used in Jewelers in Red Bank, N.J. Candy Udell, president of London Jewelers, is bullish about the TOP TRENDS coming year, but didn’t make any huge purchases. Color: Cabochons stones, like morganite, prehnite “We’re coming off a very strong season in and amethyst, in feminine pastels at Claude Monet, Irene which we had double-digit growth. Our focus is S. Aufrichtig Neuwirth and S. Aufrichtig Sacred Object. exclusive designers, with one-of-a-kind designs. Sacred Object There are still opportunities there,” she said. Pearls: Keshi and colored pearls combined with colored stones “This time of year is for freshening up and we and gold at Marco Bicego and Collete Steckel. start planning our year and [we’re waiting],” she said, noting Marco Bicego Pomellato and Stephen Hoops: Medium to large hoops with intricate gold work and Webster as best-selling brands. diamond accents at Julie Baker and Yossi Harari. Jamie Camche, co-owner of J.L. Rocks in Greenwich, Conn., which sells jewelry by Anthony Nak, Scott Colee and Mizuki, Cuffs and Bangles: Solid gold cuff bracelets to be worn as a pair or among others, said she went to JA to do a lot of housekeeping. individually at Gurhan and Judith Ripka. “The vendors we were shopping didn’t Judith Ripka have a lot of newness,” she said. “It’s Updated Femininity: Sophisticated renditions of bow, heart and a money issue. A lot of the smaller fl ower motifs at Casato and K di Kuorre. designers don’t have the money to make a new collection every three months.” innovative ways this season were morganite, a pink stone; Although Camche said that she prehnite, a blue-green stone, and amethyst. had a robust holiday season, she intends Spring will also be a strong season for pearls, though not in to have a conservative buy this year. the traditional cultured strand necklaces. Keshi pearls made “[This spring] we are looking for an appearance on simple gold French hook earrings at Gurhan, more playful [items],” she said. while Colette Steckel showed a gold brooch in the shape of a “That’s the way we position the dragon, with its claws holding a weighty Baroque pearl. buy. Our customers gear toward “Pearls are great because they neutralize the colors [of accessory-type fi ne jewelry.” Gems Sparkle on the Big Screen NEW YORK — Pasadena, Calif.-based jewelry designer Christian Tse and Swiss luxury jeweler Chopard have received starring roles in two upcoming fi lms. Tse has created the weighty pink sparkler coveted by Beyoncé Knowles in the re- make of “The Pink Panther,” which hits theaters Feb. 10, while Chopard has acces- sorized Sharon Stone in “Basic Instinct 2,” the sequel to the 1992 suspense thriller that is scheduled to be released in August. Tse, who was contacted by Lüp, a New York-based pub- lic relations and product placement fi rm, to create “The Pink Panther” ring, said he was surprised at how many versions he designed before director Shawn Levy made a Beyoncé Knowles, Kevin Klein and decision. “At one point, we spoke about using a real vivid Steve Martin eyeing Christian Tse’s ring pink 55-carat diamond that was available, but the director in a scene from “The Pink Panther.” thought it was too small and wouldn’t show up well,” said Tse, adding the loose diamond of Lugash that was burgled fi lm,” Tse said. “I had so much fun working on it. These types of projects are like a in the original 1963 Blake Edwards fi lm wasn’t a real rock. side gig for me.” The fi nal Pink Panther ring features a darker pink cubic For “Basic Instinct 2,” Stone is returning to the role of novelist Catherine Sharon zirconia that is oval cut and set in a simple white gold set- Trammel and has chosen a number of Chopard pieces to wear throughout the Stone in ting. Tse said he is exploring the idea of creating a smaller fi lm, which is still in postproduction. Among Stone’s choices are Chopard’s Golden Chopard version for production for licensing down the line. In its cur- Diamond necklace, which features gold faceted in diamonds and then treated with in “Basic rent form, he estimates the ring to be worth about $20,000. Rodium to appear blue; the Strada XXL watch; a heart-shaped pink diamond ring, Instinct 2.” “My own designs usually involve fi ne work and details, and long diamond earrings. but they wanted something very basic and graphic for the — Jennifer Hirshlag “THE PINK PANTHER” PHOTO COURTESY OF COLUMBIA PICTURES INDUSTRIES INC. OF COLUMBIA PHOTO COURTESY “THE PINK PANTHER” PICTURES INC. AND METRO-GOLDWYN-MAYER Tanzanite Celebration of Life Jewellery Design Awards

Deep within the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro lies a gem, discovered only in 1967, so rare it will become the defining jewel of our generation. The Maasai tribe celebrates tanzanite as a sacred birthstone that symbolises new life. As guardians of this precious gem the Tanzanite Foundation encourages the ethical trade and protection of tanzanite and of local African communities.

The Tanzanite Foundation welcomes you to participate in the Tanzanite ‘Celebration of Life’ Jewellery Design Awards. We are inviting designers around the world to share our passion for tanzanite by crafting innovative and modern jewellery designs. Exceptional works will be honored at this year’s globally publicised awards ceremony in New York City and showcased worldwide in a series of exhibitions.

For more information on how you can become a part of this experience visit www.tanzanitefoundation.org, call +44 870 609 2496 or e-mail us at [email protected]. All designs to be submitted by May 25th, 2006.

BE BORN TO TANZANITE 14 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 WWD.COM Accessories/Legwear Report

MANGO MINUTES: ENK Takes ‘Clear’ Approach Spanish fast- FINDINGS fashion fi rm By Sophia Chabbott including Bagteria, Alessia Re and Kenjiikeda, Mango has but will also host hot names like jewelry designer inked a licensing agreement to launch NEW YORK — Elyse N. Kroll, executive director Alexis Bittar and handbag maven Carlos Falchi. watches under its label at the Baselworld of ENK Shows, has a clear vision for showcasing “It’s good that [ENK] took the initiative,” said trade show in Switzerland this March. accessories. So Kroll, in an effort to elevate the Falchi. “[Accessories designers] can’t show in The deal is in partnership with Endura trade show experience for retailers and the press, the tents. It’s very diffi cult. We need a presence SA, an affi liate of Switzerland’s Swatch is holding a new accessories exhibition called around that area.” Group. The watches will be designed for Clear during New York Fashion Week. Due to the limited fl oor space at Clear, Falchi women, and will be for the fall selling A handbag from The show will be held from Feb. 6-8 in a booth will show an edited selection of his fall collection season. Patrick Cox’s format at Gotham Hall, 1356 Broadway, close to the of exotic skin bags in saturated colors like egg- new high-end tents at Bryant Park. Clear will host 30 plant, hunter green and caramel. PATRICK COX MOVES UP: Canadian- collection. cherry-picked up-and-coming design- Clear will be staged For Bittar, the incentive to do born, London-based Patrick Cox will ers from the U.S. and abroad. at Gotham Hall. Clear was its timing. launch his fi rst high-end accessories “It’s a very small show for ENK, “On a press level, it’s great,” he collection for women and men next but it’s a gem,” said Kroll, who came said. “You can meet with editors month exclusively in the brand’s up with the idea after speaking with here before Premiere Classe [in late stand-alone stores in the U.K. and retailers who said they wanted to see February in Paris], and they have a Paris, with intentions to roll out new accessories and footwear vendors lot of weight. Time will tell how it worldwide for fall. in between runway presentations. transpires and plays out.” A spokeswoman for the “We focused on undiscovered Bittar expanded his collection in company said the line, names, going back to the core of what recent months to include tabletop comprising 50 designs, ENK is about: fi nding new talent. The items like candlesticks and trays out including handbags and small value is who we fi nd and put in the face of his eponymous carved Lucite and leather goods, was a “natural of a retailer so the job is easier.” for spring he introduced belts. extension for the brand.” Kroll, whose organization produces such trade Cassin, the fur outerwear and accessories fi rm, Prices will range from about shows as Accessorie Circuit, Intermezzo and is showing items such as salt-and-pepper colored 195 pounds, or $343, for a shoulder purse to 1,200 pounds, or Fashion Coterie, views the relationship with 7th coyote fur trappers, chocolate mink cloches and $2,112, for a luxury travel bag. Styles include barrel silhouettes in hot- on Sixth as harmonious. Bolshevik-style hats for fall. pink python, green suede satchels and caramel shoulder bags with brass “I’m not trying to create a confl ict,” she said. “It’s great to have a show during fashion week stud detailing. A leather bag with a detailed shoulder strap will appear “I’m trying to augment fashion week.” when international and U.S. stores [are in town],” alongside the footwear collection in the upcoming spring ad campaign, Sandra Wilson, accessories fashion director of said Sherry Cassin, president and creative direc- starring Cox’s friend, Elizabeth Hurley. Neiman Marcus, said she plans to attend Clear to tor. “It [will be a] wonderful convergence of stores check out some new talent. from all over the world.” LEG UP: The house of Kenzo is the latest fashion name to associate itself “We’re all looking for the trends for next sea- Kroll, however, doesn’t want to restrict Clear to with Austrian hosiery maker Wolford AG. The two fi rms have teamed up son and fi nding new direction for the next sea- accessories and footwear designers. on a collection of legwear for the fall-winter selling season that draws son,” said Wilson. “[Clear] will help shape our “We’re branching out. We may have a painter,” on the ethnic and exotic references for which the LVMH Moët Hennessy season. It’s important to always remain curious she said excitedly, adding that stores are becom- Louis Vuitton-owned brand is known. about what’s out there and new because fashion is ing more geared toward lifestyle rather than cat- “Cooperations with famous designers are an important driver for changing faster than ever before. People change egory. “If I’m going into a store, I want to know its success and fashion attraction nowadays,” said Holger Dahmen, their needs so quickly.” philosophy on women’s, men’s and even furniture. Wolford’s chairman and chief executive offi cer. Clear will launch some new talent to the circuit, It’s the complete picture.” Previous Wolford collaborators have included Vivienne Westwood, Giorgio Armani, Pucci and Missoni.

CHANGING THE DIAL: Armand Nicolet is “ getting in touch with its feminine side for Ultimate Shoe Sa spring. le” The 100-year-old Swiss watchmaker, – Fox News 20 LAST CALL! 05 which relaunched its own men’s watch collection three years ago following a 40-year hiatus, is introducing a collection of signature women’s timepieces beginning this month. SHOE-INN The collection, called MO3, comprises three mechanical styles, each decked out with different complications like WAREHOUSE moon phases and chronographs. OF OUR “What’s typical in the 10,000 PAIR R category are aesthetic timepieces CURRENT FOOTWEA !! that have a heavy diamond count,” CHANDISEISE DAILY DAILY SALE NEWNEW MER MER CHAND said Mark Marek, president of Marc Jacobs • Stuart Weitzman • Robert Clergerie • Pollini • Via Spiga Fifth Avenue Luxury Group, which distributes Armand Nicolet watches Donald J. Pliner • Beverly Feldman • DKNY • Ralph Lauren • Zalo • Pajar in North America and the Caribbean. Anne Klein • Cynthia Rowley • Lacoste • Michael Kors • Miss Sixty •J Lo “But women have been voicing their An Armand BCBG • Burberry • André Assous • Acquatilla • Kate Spade • Moschino opinions and saying they want a watch Nicolet Marc • Uggs • Fieramosca • Delman • Bogner • Bernardo • Frye with a little more substance. So we women’s Sigerson Morrison • Steve Madden • Charles David • Puma • Converse decided to try to leapfrog ahead and watch. Geox • Boccaccini • Emu • Kors • New Balance • Kenzo • Petra create watches that are both feminine and Lily Pulitzer • Luchese • Sperry • Charlie 1 Horse • Technica sophisticated.” New Balance • Emilio Pucci • Calvin Klein • Castener • Hush Puppies The Armand Nicolet women’s watches feature Minnetonka • Guess • D&G • PLUS weatherproof boots & our 34-millimeter cases designed from either stainless steel or 18-karat rose European Designers! gold and a face that marries silver or black guilloche decoration with white, black, light blue or pink mother-of-pearl accents. Other details ALL SHOES $19 - $49 are coordinating alligator or metal straps and diamonds treatments at the bezel. Prices for the wristwatches, which will be distributed through ALL BOOTIES & BOOTS $39 - $99 independent jewelers like Grenon’s in Newport, R.I., and Bachendorf’s in Dallas, range from $2,350 to $25,150.

MON JAN 30 – THURS FEB 2 NEXT UP: The Accessories Council and the Laboratory Institute of Merchandising, the College for the Business of Fashion, held the second 4 DAYS annual Next Generation Awards on Tuesday, honoring winners of the GOTHAM HALL ONLY! school’s competition among seniors to create a marketing plan for the 1356 BROADWAY launch of a new accessories-related product, publication or store. Alice Roi, who said she is launching handbags possibly for next fall, CORNER OF BROADWAY & 36TH STREET served as the host of the event, which drew some 250 guests at the NEW 9AM - 7PM McGraw Hill Building Auditorium. Winners were Jannell Bynoe, Shaun ON! Champatsingh, Carmen Husk and Renee Migliaccio for creating the LOCATI AMEX • VISA • MC (No Checks!) marketing plan for Adorn magazine; Jenna Bookman, Erin Fisher, Erica FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL: 877 - SHOE-INN DeJong, Kristie Loscalzo and Kristin Perrotti in the product category for the conceptualization of Palmetto, and Dena Rienzi, Laura Siler, LIVINGSTON (MARCH 2006) Kim Wolf and Jiwon Yoon for the XY store. Sponsor Nine West and EAST HAMPTON • EDGEWATER • ENGLEWOOD • PALM BEACH benefactors Solstice, Riviera Trading Inc. and Neiman Marcus were also SCARSDALE • WESTPORT • WESTWOOD • WESTHAMPTON BEACH involved in the event. WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 15 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Products With a Twist Missoni Sport Adds a Layer MILAN — A gym, rather than a boudoir, inspired the new in- nerwear collection that Missoni Sport will introduce for spring. Whet Buyers’ Appetites “These are practical items, designed for daily wear,” said Luca Missoni, creative director Missoni By Karyn Monget of Missoni Sport and the men’s Oscar de la Renta’s luxe Missoni line. (For more on the Sport’s NEW YORK — There were some blockbuster hits silk gown and robe. ever-growing world of Missoni, signature at this month’s fall market, with luxury goods and see story on page 16 on the M bralet fashion looks leading the way. Missoni collection.) and While a majority of vendors were sweating over However, these are also piec- briefs. the fate of lingerie brands and private label pro- es meant to complement and ac- grams in the wake of the Federated-May merger, cessorize clothing, with a fl ash of it was clear there was a demand by retailers for wavy, colorful ruches slipping out product that would differentiate them from main- of low-rise jeans, for example. To stream channels. better offset the unmistakable Vendors said best-booking items did not repre- Missoni patterns, the shapes are “simple, easy and wearable,” ac- sent a hot new style. Instead, top items refl ected cording to the designer. the quality of the garment’s workmanship, fabrics To this end, comfort and lightweight fabrics are a priority. and special effects that exuded a look of richness The 15-style collection mainly employs stretch tulle, with mul- and enhanced value. Retailers also were enthu- tilayered prints reproducing the iconic Missoni patterns, from siastic about collection concepts that included a zigzags to checks and fl ame-like motifs. broad range of lifestyle classifi cations in lounge- “In these pieces, however, these patterns are more essential and wear and dual-purpose apparel in fabrics includ- more immediate, with less mélange and dégradée hues,” said Missoni, ing microfi ber blends; supersoft knits; plush vel- noting how the fl ame pattern, for example, always features a strong vets and velours; printed laces and meshes, and white base with contrasting colors. “It’s almost an optical pattern.” luxe, lace-trimmed silks. Often, under the tulle, Missoni added a monochrome cotton Top-booking items included: or viscose jersey layer to tone down the transparency of the tulle ● Baby dolls, especially and add a more vivid color to the patterns. For spring, the color sexy layered looks in chiffon or palette revolves around acid green, pink, geranium and sulphur charmeuse embellished with yellow. Missoni said his experience designing costumes for Dave lace or mesh, or styles with ani- Parson’s Aeros dancers and acrobats helped him experiment mal or bohemian prints. with synthetic fi bers that he used in the innerwear collection. ● Hollywood-inspired long “These are fabrics that are almost second skin, that move silk sleepgowns and coordinat- with the body, stretch, are used and washed and recycled over ing robes. and over again,” he said. ● Sexy, “Cat on a Hot Tin Vittorio Missoni, the company’s marketing director and sales

Roof ”-inspired lace-trimmed THOMAS IANNACCONE BY ERICKSEN; DE LA KYLE RENTA PHOTOS BY YING LI AND NATORI manager, said the collection is in line with the house’s strategy full slips. to further expand Missoni Sport’s product range. ● Lounge separates, wheth- Ying Li’s “The collection is a natural evolution of the line, and it re- er a lace-trimmed cami with a chiffon and sponds to a market request and a specifi c demand from our dis- knit shrug or a ballet-inspired lace baby doll. tributors,” said Missoni. “We felt the need to diversify the line, wrap sweater, and easy, pull- although the innerwear collection is very much integrated and on pants. coordinated with the clothing division.” ● Spa-inspired long robes in The innerwear collection will be available at multibrand plush nylon or polyester micro- fashion boutiques and at the eight existing Missoni Sport stores fi ber lined in luxurious satin. around the world. Retailing at 30 percent less than the signature Carole Hochman, chairman line, Missoni Sport is available at more than 1,000 points of sale. and design director of The “This is a positive moment for the innerwear category, which Hochman Design Group, said has increasingly become an accessory to clothing, much as a anything that had a look of lux- belt,” said Luca Missoni. ury was a top-booking idea. In 2005, Missoni Sport reported wholesale sales of 35 million “I think the feeling of luxury, euros, or $42.2 million at current exchange. such as an elegant easy-to-wear — Luisa Zargani gown…by Oscar de la Renta, was what everybody was look- ing for,” said Hochman. “Brown Josie Natori’s has become such a neutral embellished slip. It color — everybody has loved a rich shade of brown — and brown with black lace by STRETCHES Oscar has been outstanding. “We also had a lot of success with bras by Betsey Johnson Intimates. They look very Betsey, but they are everyday bras and everybody reacted well to that. And the luxurious hand of Lauren Ralph Lauren sleepwear with a new micro satin, Modal and more lace embellishments was well re- ceived. We took the same approach of luxurious fabrics to Carole Hochman sleepwear with 100 percent pima cotton, and focused on quality prod- uct, more subtle prints and a lot more solids.” Regarding the mood at retail, Hochman said: “I think there’s a real big separation going on now. The better stores want to look better and they want to separate themselves from the mainstream.” Michelle Clark, vice president of merchandis- ing at Movie Star Inc., said, “We did very well again strong category, and anything in velvet, like soft with what we call ‘seductivewear’ by Cinema Etoile wrap kimono jackets, were very strong.” — baby dolls in mixed fabrics like chiffon trimmed Mitchell noted that “collectible pieces,” such along the sides with mesh in animal prints and sol- as daywear and sleepwear with appliquéd lace, ids. We also had strong reaction to a dressy sleep- embroidered kimonos and updated printed lounge LA LAME, Leading Manufacturers of Stretch Fabrics wear collection of lace-trimmed knits in Modal, cot- separates in brushed-back satin, which the compa- presents ton and spandex, as well as a Modal-like fabric of ny is calling “BB satin,” were best-booking items. An Innovative New Collection of Knitted and Woven Fabrics polyester, rayon and spandex. It’s really been about Ying Li, designer of her eponymous collection and Trims Made in Europe, USA and Asia the soft hand and the feel of the fabric.” of robes, sleepwear and daywear, said, “Retailers Moldable Spacers • Microfibers • Textures • Metallics • Laces In Allovers and Galoons Clark added that a big hit in embellishments really loved the baby dolls and rich colors, and I Deluster, Foil, Glitter, Flock, Embossed and Puff Prints on: was an ecru “tea-stained” lace that has an antique had very strong bookings in that area. I think it’s Tricots,Tulles, Chiffons, Denims,Twills and Sateens look in a range of dusty midtones. because it has a bohemian feel and the baby dolls Novelty Elastic Trims: Metallics, Reflective, Ruffles, Crochets and Rhinestones Jessica Mitchell, senior vice president of mer- are dual purpose, easily worn with jeans or a suit. Please Contact Glen Schneer,Vice President chandising and marketing at the Natori Co., said, I’m getting a feeling that a lot of major retailers [email protected] • www.lalame.com “We did a fashion approach, and we had a tremen- are beginning to support newer labels like mine, dous response to sexy knits like a new sleepwear and are increasingly asking for collections that LALAME, Inc. 132 W.36th St., 11th Fl. New York, NY 10018 • Tel: 212.921.9770 • Fax: 212.302.4359 line of Tencel, tricots and printed polyester in- have a broader range of fabrics such as silks, chif- terlock. The lounge area was an extraordinarily fons, cottons and knits, which I do.” 16 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 WWD.COM

Looks from M M Missoni on Growth Track Missoni By Luisa Zargani MILAN — M Missoni is on a roll, and now it’s capitalizing on the momentum by open- ing its own retail stores. With an average 50 percent growth rate per year since 2003, a recognizable de- signer look at more affordable prices and an expanding product offering, the brand is quickly gaining market share and catching the eyes of celebrities such as Lindsay Lohan, Paris and Nicky Hilton and Jessica Simpson. In a move to further expand the business, licensee Valentino Fashion Group is investing in a new retail strategy and will open the fi rst-ever M Missoni boutique in New York this spring, followed by four more stores in Asia and the Middle East later in the year. And if the growth continues, the company may look to do M Missoni’s fi rst fashion show in 2007. “We are opening in the U.S. fi rst because this is M Missoni’s biggest market, ac- counting for 45 percent of sales,” said Michele Norsa, chief executive offi cer of Valentino Fashion Group, in a joint, exclusive interview with Graziano De Boni, presi- dent and ceo of VFG U.S.A., at the company’s headquarters here. The New York store will be directly operated. The 1,300-square-foot store in New York will open in SoHo on West Broadway in April, with a show, an event and a celebration of the 20th anniversary of the start of the relationship between Missoni and VFG. “We feel the location is more important than the size of the space, and this boutique is exactly where we wanted it to be,” said De Boni, noting the store is located alongside DKNY, D&G and Tahari and op- posite Ralph Lauren. “Also, we wanted a modern, but warm and cozy look, where it’s easier to shop.” The company worked with Angela Missoni, creative director for both M Missoni and the women’s Missoni brand, on the store concept for a young, neu- tral look, with off-white wood floors and walls. There will also be a mobile area that can be easily shifted around to change the look of the store with the addition of differently colored rugs or Hugo Boss AG, owns the Lebole brand and holds a license to produce and cabinets to adapt the store to a particu- distribute the Marlboro Classics line globally, with the exception of the U.S. lar season’s color palette. market. In 2006, the company will open fran- Norsa also pointed to the strong ties VFG has with the Missonis, a rela- chised stores in Bangkok, Kuwait and tionship that goes back to 1985 through the production and distribution of Jakarta and in either Shanghai or the sportswear collection Example by Missoni and the diffusion Missoni Beijing. “Asia is where the growth is,” Uomo and Missoni Donna lines. said Norsa. A store rendering. “This is more than a license, we are friends with the Missoni family To this end, last week VFG signed an and this helps grow the business,” said Norsa. agreement with Onward Kashiyama to start distributing M Missoni in Japan. Under the Angela Missoni said her goal is “to keep the collection fresh, with a precise cus- agreement, there are plans to open four shop-in-shops this year and 10 over the next tomer in mind, someone young, aged between 20 and 30, who would like to wear three years. Asia currently accounts for 12 percent of M Missoni’s sales. “We want Asia to Missoni but can’t afford it yet.” account for at least 20 percent of sales,” said Norsa. Accordingly, Missoni said there will never be an evening gown within the M Italy and the rest of Europe currently account for 27 percent and 16 percent of Missoni line, but lots of easy pieces that can be mixed and matched and plenty of sales, respectively. Norsa estimated M Missoni will have sales of 30 million euros, feminine dresses. “Actually, we are expanding the offer of dresses, which are among or $36.2 million at current exchange, in 2006 — almost four times the revenues in our bestsellers,” she said. In line with the signature collections, M Missoni covers 2001. M Missoni, which accounts for about 20 percent of Missoni’s total sales, was fi rst everything from a wavy patterned kimono-sleeved knit to a monochrome gray coat launched for spring 1999; the company decided to focus on the women’s line three with a pink rim, and styles from simple burgundy velvet pants to zigzagged printed years ago, at which time it terminated men’s wear. T-shirts or capes. The line is currently available at 709 points of sale in the world, including de- “The collections are more complete now, with more wovens and accessories, rang- partment stores Galeries Lafayette, La Rinascente, Harrods, Selfridges and Lane ing from scarves to bags, and today’s fashion trends are helping us, with the end of Crawford. In the U.S., M Missoni is available at 220 doors, including Saks Fifth minimalism and color being so strong,” said Norsa. “At the same time, we are more Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Bergdorf Goodman, and 130 specialty stores, focused on Missoni, our only designer license today, in terms of investments in human such as Fred Segal in Los Angeles and Scoop in New York. resources and commercially.” “M Missoni is a brilliant concept, bringing iconic designs at a wonderful price Vittorio Missoni, sales and marketing manager of the family-owned company, at- point and opening up to a new clientele,” said Roopal Patel, women’s fashion director tributed the success of M Missoni to a “perfect quality/price ratio, a focused design at Bergdorf Goodman. “No one else at this price point is doing this and no one ever and the expansion of the mix between knits and wovens.” Missoni also praised the will; it’s special and exclusive. The line is very successful, demand is very strong and “excellent assistance and service” in the U.S. that VFG is able to offer in that mar- we’ve had a wonderful reaction.” ket. De Boni noted how the group provides up to nine deliveries per year, for ex- Dresses in the collection retail between $495 and $595, knits retail at $290 and ample. Missoni said Marzotto’s approach to the world of fashion design has evolved jackets, which are a new project, retail between $495 and $795. “Our effort is to keep signifi cantly over the past few years and that Norsa has “a modern vision,” which has [affordable] prices, with a Made in Italy production,” said De Boni. helped develop the company into a fashion group from a clothing manufacturer. Until 2003, Marzotto produced and distributed young and second lines for Gianfranco “In 2000, M Missoni was zero in the U.S. and it was positioned in the bridge cat- Ferré. A Marzotto spin-off last year resulted in the creation of Valentino Fashion Group, egory,” said De Boni. ”Today, the line is considered modern in the same group as which is listed on the Milan Stock Exchange. VFG today controls Valentino SpA and Tahari or Theory.”

ON YOUR MARC: Marc Jacobs and Karl Lagerfeld are the latest for a day to meet with Karl Lagerfeld. Because of business fashion designers scheduled to appear on “The Oprah Winfrey back at home, Hilfi ger was sorry he couldn’t make it in time Fashion Scoops Show,” WWD has learned. Jacobs, who returned to Paris from to witness Chanel’s breathtaking couture show, with that the U.S. last week in time for the Louis Vuitton men’s show Ziegfeld-worthy ivory tower centerpiece, though he did see the Friday night, was mum on details, but confi rmed that footage pictures and thought it looked “fabulous.” Hilfi ger stopped was shot in New York and Chicago. The segment, with Trish in chez Lagerfeld to discuss future plans for their shared Goff modeling his designs, is slated to air Feb. 13. Lagerfeld, venture, Lagerfeld Gallery, which will be shown in New York meanwhile, will arrive in New York on Feb. 6 to prepare for the fi rst time during the upcoming New York collections. the launch of his New York-based collection at the close of He got a preview of what Lagerfeld plans and would only offer fashion week, and will make a quick trip to Chicago on Feb. this cryptic teaser: “It’s a whole new direction for Karl.” 7 to tape an appearance on the talk show. Lagerfeld is said to Asked how he’s enjoying his new situation regarding the be offering guests exclusive fi rst looks from the new collection potential new owners of his company, Hilfi ger said, “It’s very on the show on models. Designers on “Oprah” are nothing exciting. It will allow us to address issues in the American new, though: In recent months, Winfrey’s show has featured market away from the public.” He noted that as the company the likes of Valentino, Narciso Rodriguez and Tory Burch. focuses on going upscale, the volume will shrink a bit, as Also last week, the multitasking Jacobs hosted a dinner “we become less middle-of-the-road.” at Dave in Paris to fete the new Marc Jacobs collection store in Palais Royal. The designer worked the room like EINAR ON DECK: Former Geoffrey Beene designer Einar Holilokk a pro and then settled in for lemon chicken and fried rice has reportedly found a new home at Reem Acra. News of with the likes of Sofi a Coppola and Lee Radziwill. the former Bill Blass designer joining the bridal company is expected to be announced Monday. Reem Acra declined AIR TOMMY: Around 7 p.m. last Friday in Paris, Tommy Hilfi ger comment Friday. In other bridal news, Monique Lhuillier and her

PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY buckled his seat belt — in fi rst class, natch — on Air France husband and chief executive offi cer, Tom Bugbee, have a new Marc Jacobs and Sofi a Coppola Lee Radziwill Flight 008, bound for New York. He’d slipped into Paris addition. She gave birth Tuesday to their fi rst child, Jack Bugbee. wise up

The facts speak for themselves — 64% of MAGIC attendees buy for specialty and boutique stores.

Your moment is here. Don’t miss it. February 21-24, 2006 Tu e s day thru Friday www.MAGIConline.com 18 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 WWD.COM Gridlock Looms in Congress Baucus Plans WASHINGTON — The House and Senate will reconvene on Legislation Tuesday facing key decisions on trade, immigration, health care and taxes that are of vital importance to the retail, apparel and textile industries. By Kristi Ellis The legislative agenda, however, may be stymied in a partisan atmosphere preoccupied with the Congressional lobbying scandal WASHINGTON — The rank- and midterm elections. ing Democrat on the Senate Republican leaders are trying to cope with the federal inves- Finance Committee, Sen. Max tigation of GOP lobbyist Jack Abramoff and his ties to powerful Baucus, said Wednesday that members of Congress such as Rep. Tom DeLay (R., Tex.), who he would introduce seven leg- was forced to step down as House Majority Leader because of al- islative initiatives on issues legations he conspired to launder campaign funds. Abramoff has from international trade to pleaded guilty to felony conspiracy and fraud charges for bribing health care that are intended public offi cials. The investigation is said to be focusing on several to make the U.S. more competi- members of Congress and offi cials in the executive branch. tive and preserve jobs. In addition, the Congressional calendar will be truncated be- Returning from a trip to cause lawmakers will leave Washington in October to campaign for China and India, Baucus (D., the midterm elections, as Republicans battle to maintain majori- Mont.), said during a speech at ties in the House and Senate. the National Press Club that “It is going to be difficult to determine what is on the “the U.S. economy is losing some Congressional agenda, since they will be so focused on lobbying re- of its competitive advantage.” form and leadership elections in the House, which will slow down He pointed to rising health the legislative agenda,’’ said Paul Kelly, senior vice president, care costs, a record defi cit in government affairs, of the Retail Industry Leaders Association. the ratio of foreign debt to Gross “It certainly adds a highly charged political issue to the agenda Domestic Product and “po- — that of lobbying reform — and I expect them to pass something litically motivated trade agree- because both sides feel they need to insulate themselves from the ments with very small countries Abramoff affair.” of little economic signifi cance President Bush’s domestic agenda met roadblocks in 2005, forc- that create few jobs at home,” ing him to shelve major initiatives such as overhauls of the federal as indicators that U.S. economic tax code and Social Security. Escalating de- strength is weakening. fense spending associated with the Iraq War, a However, Baucus will have a ballooning defi cit that some experts say might diffi cult time moving any legis- hit $400 billion this year and the fallout from lation through the Republican-

the lobbying inquiry could impede Bush’s FREE AGENTS LIMITED/CORBIS BY CAPITAL UPI PHOTO/ROGER L. WOLLENBERG/LANDOV; BUSH PHOTO BY controlled Senate. plans. The President is to give his State of the Congress goes into full session on Tuesday and On the trade front, Baucus Union address Tuesday night. will tackle the Bush administration’s agenda. said he would propose cre- “My guess is the State of the Union will ating a chief trade prosecu- focus on big-picture things like tax reform Senate removed a few small health-care re- tor position in the U.S. Trade and making tax cuts permanent, and it will be lated provisions. Representative’s Offi ce to over- interesting to see if he raises anything about Perhaps the most immediate trade issue see investigating and prosecut- health care, which is a looming subject, and for the fashion industry is implementa- ing trade enforcement cases. whether he reiterates his Social Security ini- tion of the Central American Free Trade The job would require Senate tiative,” said Norman J. Ornstein, resident Agreement and the textile and apparel side confi rmation. scholar at the American Enterprise Institute. deals crafted outside of the accord. The ad- “When our companies work “But the fact is we have a Congress that is ministration made commitments to House to invest and trade abroad, we increasingly uneasy and preoccupied with textile-state lawmakers to secure enough will work to make sure these the fallout from the scandals and they have votes for passage, including one that seeks markets are open, that they stay to turn their attention to some reform issues, to preserve pocketing and lining business open and that our partners play not out of choice but out of necessity…and in the U.S. and another intended to protect by the rules,” Baucus said. they will have to sort out a general approach U.S. cotton and man-made fi ber trouser His bill would also require to legislation.” business in Nicaragua. the USTR to work with Congress Steve Pfi ster, vice president of government “Assuming the [six CAFTA] countries to identify “priority” barriers affairs at the National Retail Federation, said implement this year, I think this is some- to trade and investment each GOP infi ghting may create a different politi- thing Congress will have to address, partic- year and “address them expedi- cal calculus. ularly as other trade agreements come down the pike,” said Missy tiously.” The agency releases an “You could have a situation where moderate Republicans and Branson, senior vice president of the National Council of Textile annual report on foreign trade conservative Democrats really act as the fulcrum in the House and Organizations. barriers, but it is often criti- the voting bloc to pass anything with signifi cance,” Pfi ster said. Sen. Chuck Grassley (R., Iowa), chairman of the Senate Finance cized because of the lack of con- While legislation affecting consumer and business spending is Committee, a key supporter of CAFTA, is urging delay of imple- crete action or results. a focus for the industry, the direction of trade policy — set by the mentation until all countries accept the U.S. meat inspection sys- Baucus urged making trade White House but shaped by Congress in approving and amending tem. Grassley sent a letter last week to U.S. Trade Representative adjustment assistance more ac- legislation — is a high priority. Rob Portman expressing concern that some of the CAFTA coun- cessible to all trade-displaced One of the biggest items on the trade agenda is the global tries “are reluctant” to accept the “import eligibility of all USDA- workers, including service trade talks among the 149 member countries of the World Trade approved meatpacking facilities.” employees and those who lose Organization, which are aimed at reaching an agreement to reduce Negotiations over Vietnam’s accession to the WTO are also their jobs because of competi- and eliminate tariffs on thousands of products. The industry is mon- being closely watched. Importers are awaiting the country’s entry tion with China and India. itoring how trade negotiators proceed with a formula to cut tariffs into the quota-free global trading arena. Vietnam operates under The senator also raised on textiles and apparel, the scope of special treatment for the so- a textile bilateral agreement with the U.S. that restrains several the issue of China’s currency called Least Developed Countries and Developing Countries and categories of textiles and apparel. The textile industry is pressing policy, which many lawmak- whether WTO members will agree to a separate textile sectorial. the White House to negotiate a special safeguard with Vietnam, ers and business groups claim “A signifi cant part of our work this year will be…helping mem- similar to one with China, that could keep apparel and textiles is undervalued by as much as bers of Congress understand what [has been proposed],” said under quota after Vietnam joins the WTO. 40 percent because it is pegged Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American Manufacturing WTO accession agreements are also being negotiated with to the U.S. dollar. He said he Trade Action Coalition. “So when they go back to their districts and Russia, Ukraine and Kazakhstan, and Congress could vote on leg- warned Chinese leaders that say they are fi ghting for open markets and reciprocal trade to get islation this year giving each country Permanent Normal Trade Congress would move to pass U.S. products into India and China and other key markets…they Relations status — bringing tariffs in line with other U.S. trading legislation quickly if they did understand there is a text here that, unless drastically changed, partners and clearing the way for them to join the WTO. not soon address the current will basically create an unequal environment for the U.S.” The November elections could generate Congressional pressure trade defi cit and do not allow Importers are pressing for a complete elimination of textile to take a more aggressive stance against China, especially if the China’s currency to appreciate and apparel tariffs and will work to block attempts by the textile economy weakens. A bill introduced by Sens. Charles Schumer (D., more against the dollar. industry to weaken ambitious liberalization. N.Y.) and Lindsey Graham (R., S.C.) that would impose a 27.5 per- Sens. Charles Schumer (D., “Our goal is to look for the broadest possible benefi ts for the LDCs cent tariff on all imports from China if it does not revalue its cur- N.Y.) and Lindsey Graham (R., and not try to remove benefi ts for products those countries can actu- rency within a set time frame appears to have the most traction. S.C.) have broad bipartisan sup- ally make,” said Julia Hughes, vice president of international trade One of the most critical issues for retailers is a move toward port for a bill that would impose at the U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel. mandated health coverage at the state level. They are gearing up a 27.5 percent tariff on all im- The fi rst test of GOP leadership in the House could come quick- to lobby against an AFL-CIO-backed initiative to pursue legisla- ports from China if it does not ly, as lawmakers are expected to take up a budget-reduction pack- tion in 30 states that would force employers to provide a specifi c revalue its currency within a age. The industry is awaiting the vote on the bill, which would level of health care coverage. set time frame. Schumer said he repeal a trade law that compensates U.S. companies hurt by un- The fi rst test came in Maryland, where the state legislature re- would ask the Senate to bring dervalued and subsidized imports and eliminate a cotton subsidy cently overrode the governor’s veto of a bill that would require all the bill to a vote early this year if program. Vice President Dick Cheney cast a vote in the Senate employers with 10,000 or more employees — only Wal-Mart in that China did not make more prog- to break a 50-50 tie before Congress adjourned in December. The state’s case — to spend as much as 8 percent of their total wages ress in revaluing its currency. House must vote a second time on the legislation because the paid on employee health benefi ts. WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 19 WWD.COM FREY STILL HAS SOME FRIENDS: At least one character in James Frey’s second memoir, “My MEMO PAD Friend Leonard,” exists in real Henry Jacobson Gambles on Women’s life, precisely as described. It’s Bella, Frey’s pit bull, who was By Julee Greenberg also explained the importance recently photographed with the of running a good business. She embattled author and his other NEW YORK — Men’s wear de- made sure to tell him that it was pooch, Preacher, for the March signer Henry Jacobson is making important to have the fi nancial issue of Absolute. a play on the women’s market. structure in place before launch- The magazine quotes Frey Jacobson, who rings up about ing a full collection for men describing his dogs, saying: $60 million in sales with his and women. After a few solid “[Preacher’s] like a model signature line of men’s sports- years with the Mulberry busi- James Frey, Bella and Preacher in — very, very handsome and very, wear and his Mulberry line of ness, Jacobson started the men’s Absolute. very happy…but not smart. Bella, neckwear, is launching his fi rst sportswear in 2001. though — she’s like a little girl, collection of women’s wear for The bicoastal designer works very intuitive.” (Frey would know — he has a one-year-old daughter, fall selling. The new brand, from an offi ce in San Francisco who, he said, often cuddles with the “intuitive” pit bull.) American Gambler by Henry and at 156 East 36th Street here, The shoot took place before the veracity of his fi rst memoir, “A Jacobson, will be showcased for which is in a four-fl oor former Million Little Pieces,” was attacked on The Smoking Gun’s Web the fi rst time at his debut run- carriage house that he pur- site on Jan. 9. Absolute’s photo editor, Catherine Talese, who is the way show in the Bryant Park chased in February 2001. The daughter of Nan Talese, the publisher of both of Frey’s books, arranged tents during fashion week on building, which was built in 1850, it. While Absolute’s interview with Frey was conducted in advance Feb. 3. houses Jacobson’s showrooms on of the scandal, the magazine’s editors decided to reopen the piece The men’s wear, which sells the ground fl oor. Two fl oors are and acknowledge the controversy after Frey’s second appearance on at retailers such as Macy’s and reserved for sewers and the top “The Oprah Winfrey Show” Thursday. The story now reads, “Bella Lord & Taylor, is more main- fl oor is Jacobson’s residence. and Preacher snore at Frey’s feet while the writer sits in his Village stream than American Gambler. At the runway show, Jacobson apartment sweating over a new book about L.A., a Hell’s Angels fi lm, The collection features high- said he is dedicating 10 out of 33 a Fox pilot, the fi lm version of ‘A Million Little Pieces’ and various end men’s and women’s pieces looks to the women’s line and he allegations on The Smoking Gun.” such as wool, cashmere and an- plans to send the women down On Friday, over e-mail, Absolute editor in chief Andrew Essex gora sweaters, goat suede skirts the catwalk with the men. quipped, “We fact-checked [our story]! Even the dogs were queried.” and silk velvet evening gowns “I want to show that these He added, “I have not read either book. I recall the manuscript was with beaded details. Targeting women are strong, but they go circulated when I was at Details, but we passed. After all, we already high-end specialty retailers like hand-in-hand with their part- had Augustin Burroughs. One self-aggrandizing 12-stepper is more Bergdorf Goodman, Jacobson ners,” he said. “The women’s than enough.”— Sara James said he is fulfilling a lifelong looks are made to layer, like with dream by designing this line. the sweaters and corsets. I like MAXIM MINIMIZES: Dennis Publishing always has prided itself on its “My mother was the Euro- the volume mixed with softness.” very British practice of operating with staffi ng levels leaner than is pean buyer for B. Altman,” Jacob- Jacobson said that while the usual for U.S. magazines. The company got even more British recently son said. “She pretty much lived luxe line will wholesale from when it laid off a number of employees from Maxim and Blender. at the Plaza Hotel here. When I $350 to $5,000, and he is only tar- A Dennis spokesman confi rmed the cuts included Blender senior was as young as seven years old, geting a select number of stores, writer Clark Collis and associate photo editor Tom Payne, as well as I would go shopping with her the future will bring a more main- two business-side staffers at Maxim. Collis, described as a “catch-all and help her pick out clothes. stream line of women’s wear. writer,” will be especially hard to replace, according to two former I’ve always been very artistic “This is just my entrance into co-workers: “He wrote so much of the book, it will be hard to imagine and I knew I wanted to do this women’s,” he said. “I would love how they get it done now,” said one. back then.” Henry Jacobson will launch his women’s to do a line that every women can So far, the newest round of layoffs has yet to reach Maxim’s Jacobson said his mother line at Bryant Park on Feb. 3. afford.” editorial side, or the staff of Stuff. But ever since “Black Friday,” the day in September 2004 when 15 people, including several executives, were fi red, job eliminations have continued at a slow but steady pace. The Dennis spokesman said there were no further cuts planned, and noted the workforce still numbers “well over 200” — but that’s down from 275, pre-Black Friday. One recent layoff that surprised even Dennis insiders was that of Maxim entertainment director Aric Webb, a close friend of editorial director Andy Clerkson. — Jeff Bercovici

BONNIE BOOK HAS TRUTHINESS: Like other celebrity weeklies, Star magazine has been known on occasion to publish a claim that doesn’t stand the test of time. But when it came to writing the story of her own life, don’t expect Star editorial director Bonnie Fuller to turn out to be another James Frey. “I didn’t have to embellish anything,” she said. And, no, her publisher, Simon & Schuster, didn’t insist on fact- checking all of her anecdotes after Frey’s distortions became a full- blown media obsession. In point of fact, Fuller’s book, “The Joys of Much Too Much: Go for the Big Life — The Great Career, The Perfect Guy, and Everything Else You’ve Ever Wanted (Even If You’re Afraid You Don’t Have What It Takes)” — is less memoir than advice book. The cover, meanwhile, places it fi rmly in the chick-lit genre; the illustration is the work of Donald Robertson, a longtime friend of Fuller’s who worked with her at Glamour, Cosmopolitan, Marie Claire and YM, and is now creative director of Cargo. Fuller recently spoke to a group of students at Columbia University’s Graduate School of Journalism, an invitation she accepted, in part, because she hoped to attract recruits to her magazines. The evening was a success, she reported: “I walked away with one envelope with a résumé inside and many other promises.” Fuller has been busy recruiting elsewhere, as well: She just hired Chris Kensler from OK, where he was entertainment director, to be co- executive editor of Celebrity Living. — J.B.

ANNA DOES ORLANDO: Anna Wintour is taking a break from launching spin-offs to give a speech about launching spin-offs. The Vogue editor in chief will be in Orlando, Fla., in early March to give an address at the annual retail conference held jointly by the Magazine Publishers of America and the International Periodical Distributors Association. Wintour’s topic will be keeping established brands fresh and vital; she’ll draw from her experience starting Teen Vogue and Men’s Vogue. Other headliners at the conference will include Martha Stewart, who will talk about the launch of her new lifestyle title, Blueprint, and Jane Fonda. — J.B. 20 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006

Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW P/E (00’S) LAST CHANGE WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX VS. S&P 500 RETAILERS 74.10 44.17 Abercrombie Abercrombie & &Fitch Fitch 20.9 86106 64.06 2.98 35.46 18.05 AéropostaleAeropostale 21.6 36656 30.46 1.83 34.04 19.45 American American Eagle Eagle 13.2 135643 26.04 1.74 35.20 20.94 AnnAnn Taylor Taylor 58.8 48361 34.24 1.67 30.97 13.05 BebeBebe 20.5 100955 18.53 3.82 2.26 0.97 BlueflyBluefly - 4611 1.10 -0.04 23.22 15.06 Bon-TonBon-Ton 22.8 2261 21.18 -0.61 44.80 24.49 BurlingtonBurlington Coat Coat 18.0 22077 44.66 0.34 S&P 500 19.09 10.90 CachéCache 24.0 3689 18.29 0.77 24.37 16.83 CatoCato 16.0 6101 21.58 2.06 22.49 10.06 CharlotteCharlotte Russe Russe 23.4 38076 16.64 1.17 14.07 7.00 CharmingCharming Shoppes Shoppes 17.6 30429 12.61 0.17 46.32 24.59 Chico’sChico’s FAS FAS 42.3 83910 42.20 -0.21 54.64 33.22 Children’sChildren’s Place Place 28.6 30946 45.09 3.12 31.60 22.59 CVSCVS 21.1 347767 28.07 0.94 32.46 20.38 DebDeb Shops Shops 18.2 812 32.01 0.14 28.60 18.91 Dillard’sDillard’s 16.3 34774 25.76 0.09 22.80 16.94 DollarDollar General General 16.8 122705 16.99 -0.24 45.00 16.51 DressDress Barn Barn 20.3 47540 44.53 4.48 47.86 30.78 eBayeBay 55.8 610303 44.07 -0.90 35.25 19.40 FamilyFamily Dollar Dollar 18.9 75355 24.23 0.13 WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX 78.05 54.53 FederatedFederated 11.1 262662 67.75 -2.35 29.95 18.74 FootFoot Locker Locker 13.7 59686 22.39 0.21 22.70 15.90 GapGap 13.2 310642 17.38 0.40 11.10 6.66 Goody’sGoody’s - 1850 9.59 0.03 12.45 7.77 GottschalksGottschalks 22.6 1414 9.71 0.05 40.49 12.51 GuessGuess 36.7 21465 40.15 2.41 2.10 0.50 Harold’sHarold’s Stores Stores - 64 0.75 -0.11 23.49 13.03 HotHot Topic Topic 21.3 42287 14.17 0.80 57.99 41.08 J.C.J.C. Penney Penney 17.6 98737 56.21 1.40 58.90 42.78 Kohl’sKohl’s 18.9 215195 44.20 0.58 25.50 18.81 LimitedLimited Brands Brands 20.4 90011 23.02 0.64 15.59 6.72 MothersMothers Work Work - 454 14.10 1.15 24.28 11.78 New New York York & &Co. Co. 17.4 48453 19.18 0.14 42.74 23.57 NordstromNordstrom 22.8 118651 42.28 2.88 29.05 20.33 PacificPacific Sunwear Sunwear 14.9 72587 24.22 1.41 WWD STOCK INDEX REBOUNDS 1.7% 43.49 33.86 RegisRegis 28.3 27144 39.10 -0.86 14.34 6.54 RetailRetail Ventures Ventures - 13199 12.73 0.30 31.37 22.34 RossRoss Stores Stores 23.4 77403 29.30 0.24 NEW YORK — Despite weak economic data last week, the market perked up on Friday as investors specu- 24.64 13.59 SaksSaks 22.0 75432 19.01 0.37 lated that foreign economies would continue to expand, creating demand for U.S. goods and services. 163.50 89.37 Sears Sears 9.9 70598 123.19 2.43 32.39 23.68 StageStage Stores Stores 14.7 7654 29.78 0.69 As a result, the S&P 500 closed the week up 1.8 percent to 1,283.72. Retail and apparel stocks 26.47 16.25 SteinStein Mart Mart 13.8 11518 17.02 -0.44 were also buoyed by the enthusiasm. The WWD Composite Stock Index jumped 1.7 percent for 15.80 11.75 SymsSyms 47.4 509 15.20 0.16 the week. 35.34 24.20 TalbotsTalbots 17.0 18271 28.40 0.15 On Friday morning, the Commerce Department said the gross domestic product rose 1.1 percent in the 60.00 45.55 TargetTarget 21.1 246054 54.17 0.59 fourth quarter of 2005, which is signifi cantly slower than the third quarter’s 4.1 percent gain and the slowest 25.96 19.95 TJXTJX Cos. 19.5 130567 24.89 0.71 15.71 4.56 United United Retail Retail Group Group 26.3 7296 15.50 0.92 pace in three years. 33.77 19.85 UrbanUrban Outfitters Outfitters 35.6 181272 28.10 1.52 But several economists said the slowed pace was just temporary. The global economy is growing 53.74 42.31 Wal-MartWal-Mart 18.1 831407 45.84 0.84 steadily, and they expect U.S.-based companies to benefi t from it. 7.04 2.01 WetWet Seal Seal - 81382 5.50 1.16 Wall Street was also giddy that the Federal Reserve might raise interest rates just one more 7.30 2.44 WilsonsWilsons Leather Leather 1.5 6253 3.41 0.25 34.42 24.49 ZaleZale 13.7 22685 24.85 0.01 time before it puts a hold on increases for at least the rest of the year. VENDORS This week, same-store sales are on the agenda with most retailers reporting results on Thursday. 56.31 41.70 AlbertoAlberto Culver Culver 17.9 69885 44.00 0.09 “January is traditionally a month for fall-winter clearance and spring rollouts,” said Citigroup 45.66 24.33 AvonAvon 14.4 90708 29.07 0.41 analyst Deborah Weinswig in a research note Friday. “This year, persistent warm weather (warmest 26.35 17.56 BenettonBenetton 32.3 372 24.08 -0.11 39.56 31.57 CherokeeCherokee 19.0 2692 39.49 2.47 January in the last 112 years) dampened the retailers’ ability to clear goods to make way for new 36.84 24.51 CoachCoach 29.1 213609 35.91 4.16 receipts despite promotions. Retailers who transitioned early benefi ted from full-priced selling, 57.51 41.00 ColumbiaColumbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 14.4 48857 51.63 4.72 while inventory levels may be above plan for others.” 26.50 18.28 ElizabethElizabeth Arden Arden 17.2 12169 20.76 0.78 The analyst went on to say that with gift cards increasing in importance, “we believe many 47.50 29.98 EstéeEstee Lauder Lauder 20.6 105813 35.93 1.83 28.95 14.96 FossilFossil 18.0 16277 22.91 0.38 broadlines retailers benefi ted from sales shifting into January.” 14.83 6.52 G-IIIG-III 14.8 242 14.25 0.75 The Citigroup Broadlines Index is looking at a same-store sales increase of 4.1 percent, which 42.69 31.19 IFFIFF 14.5 49495 33.60 -0.16 compares with a 3.1 percent gain in December, and a 3.1 percent gain for the same month last year. 21.80 12.90 InterInter Parfums Parfums 25.2 2619 19.38 1.58 Weinswig said Target Corp. and Nordstrom Inc. face the toughest, year-over-year sales com- 35.65 26.47 JonesJones Apparel Apparel 14.8 38389 31.88 1.18 parisons in the mass and department store channels. 30.55 21.83 KellwoodKellwood - 29863 23.95 -0.03 35.29 23.81 KennethKenneth Cole Cole 15.1 7940 27.25 0.77 — WWD Staff 43.82 33.57 LizLiz Claiborne Claiborne 11.4 38823 34.75 0.30 6.21 3.27 MossimoMossimo 17.7 788 5.97 -0.08 20.38 15.24 MovadoMovado 15.9 1914 19.29 1.02 91.54 75.10 NikeNike 16.2 122874 83.15 -1.05 WWDStock Market Index 57.58 33.66 OxfordOxford 12.7 15451 45.05 2.83 Weekly % Changes Ending Jan. 27 17.94 9.52 PerfumaniaPerfumania 11.5 51 16.76 -0.74 26.48 18.50 PerryPerry Ellis Ellis 8.2 1670 20.10 1.56 36.83 24.11 Phillips-VanPhillips-Van Heusen Heusen 16.7 18954 35.62 1.41 Composite: Retailers: Vendors: Largest Gainers Largest Losers 57.65 34.19 Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 22.7 35423 56.88 3.89 1118.08 1109.79 1130.77 18.12 10.63 QuiksilverQuiksilver 15.3 65736 13.76 -0.25 59.01 40.06 ReebokReebok 14.4 38269 58.97 0.25 Close Change Close Change 4.29 2.24 RevlonRevlon - 23919 3.32 0.31 Wet Seal 5.50 26.73 Harold’s Stores 0.75 -12.79 21.84 12.31 RussellRussell 14.9 18244 14.91 0.39 31.77 15.69 SteveSteve Madden Madden 32.8 9850 30.27 1.77 Bebe 18.53 25.97 Tarrant 1.15 -5.74 4.22 0.86 TarrantTarrant - 6052 1.15 -0.07 19.20 16.59 32.72 18.76 9.57 TommyTommy Hilfiger Hilfiger 17.6 140723 16.58 0.53 Coach 35.91 13.10 Perfumania 16.76 -4.23 22.25 7.87 True True Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 25.4 23921 21.95 0.65 Dress Barn 44.53 11.19 Bluefly 1.10 -3.51 61.61 50.44 VFVF Corp. Corp. 11.7 20429 55.84 0.63 Index base of 1000 is keyed to closing prices 28.22 19.70 WarnacoWarnaco 18.8 17480 24.85 -0.08 of Dec. 31, 2002. Cato 21.58 10.55 Federated 67.75 -3.35 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 21 WWD.COM Claiborne Deals Expected to Spur Growth

NEW YORK — Liz Claiborne Inc. at the investment banking fi rm distribution. For Liz, it is always channel,” said Altman. has been making smaller acqui- The Sage Group, has sold four All of these the brand, such as where it is The banker gave as an ex- sitions, but ones that provide the companies to Liz Claiborne, in- “ sold as well as the strength of ample prAna, which gave Liz apparel giant with huge growth cluding Westcoast Contempo. acquisitions the brand,” the banker said. Claiborne a new distribution opportunities, according to fi - The other three were Skylark With Liz Claiborne’s chief channel through the outdoor nancial analysts and bankers. Sports Marketing (prAna), Juicy strengthen Liz for executive offi cer Paul Charron retailers. The diversification, Last week, the company said Couture and C&C California. retiring at the end of the year, Altman noted, allows fi rms such it was buying Canadian firm “It is clear to see why Liz is the next period of Altman believes the ceo will as Liz Claiborne to grow in new Westcoast Contempo Fashions interested in all of them, but leave a company with strong markets while at the same time Ltd. and Mac and Jac Holdings for different reasons. Mac & Jac growth. growth prospects. broaden their channel risk. for $23.6 million, which designs gives Liz a stronger presence in — Paul Altman,” The Sage Group “The acquisition strategy at Liz “All of these acquisitions and sells the Mac & Jac, Kenzie its offering of contemporary ap- is very disciplined and well thought strengthen Liz for the next pe- and Kenziegirl apparel brands. parel to the younger consumer,” out. The four companies [that we riod of growth. The company is “In our opinion, this acquisition Altman said, noting that his cli- presence in Canada and China. sold to them] all contribute differ- a stronger engine with more cyl- is another brilliant transaction in a ent also provides Liz Claiborne “Liz is very focused on the ent things to Liz’s business, either inders fi ring,” said the banker. series of successful deals that the with an expanded international brand, not necessarily [just on] a new brand or new distribution — Vicki M. Young company has made over the past several years....We believe these brands complement Liz’s other contemporary labels, Laundry and Juicy,” wrote Jennifer Black, of the fi rm that bears her name, in a research note. GE Commercial Finance Black noted that Mac & Jac is similar in market positioning as Retail Finance Anthropologie and that Kenzie is “reminiscent of a more femi- nine Abercrombie.” She added that the lines have room to grow on the wholesale side as depart- ment stores are in need of dif- ferentiated brands. “In addition, we would expect to see line ex- pansions in areas such as hand- Cha-Ching! bags, jewelry, etc.,” she wrote. Paul Altman, vice president That’s the sound of Bebe Posts Increase your business growing. In 2Q Net Our customers’ business needs vary as By Meredith Derby much as the reasons they count on GE: acquisitions, consolidations, business NEW YORK — Bebe Stores Inc. cycles, market changes, and more. No reported a slight increase in sec- matter the need, one thing’s the same: ond-quarter earnings, which was every financing event provides an partially caused by a tepid cus- tomer response to giftable mer- opportunity for us to help you grow chandise during the holidays. your company. For the three months ended Dec. 31, the Brisbane, Calif.- Why GE? No one else can provide the based specialty retailer earned agility, flexibility and stability that comes $25 million, or 27 cents a diluted with a triple-A rated lender with 100+ years’ share, compared with $24.3 mil- of consumer product experience and first- lion, or 26 cents, in the year-ear- hand retail operations know-how. Factor in lier period. Results in the most direct access to our wealth of knowledge recent quarter included a stock- and resources and you’ve got an equation based compensation expense of 2 cents and a 1 cent expense relat- that adds up to your business success. ed to the company’s customer loy- alty program. Analysts had been expecting a profi t of 26 cents. Net sales rose 10 percent to $167.9 million while same-store sales increased 2.2 percent. Regarding its Bebe division, the company cited on a Thursday post-earnings conference call strength in outerwear, denim, sweaters and casual sportswear. That strength, however, was off- set by negative same-store sales in accessories and tops. “We also believe we missed an opportunity in gift-giving and accessories compared to last imagination at work year,” the company said. Gross profi ts declined to 50.7 as a percent of sales from 51.3 last year. Bebe cited lower mer- chandise margins. Year-to-date earnings rose 8.1 percent to $38.6 million, or Daniel Williams · New York, NY · 212-309-8779 Jim Hogan Matt Christensen · San Francisco, CA · 415-277-7507 Pamela Rashid · Chicago, IL · 312-441-7763 Norwalk, CT · 203-956-4592 Patrick Clemens San Francisco, CA · 415-277-7420 41 cents, which compares with Jill Hayes · Chicago, IL · 312-441-7143 $35.7 million, or 39 cents, in the prior year. Net sales were up 15 © 2005 GE Corporate Financial Services, Inc. All rights reserved. percent at $294.1 million. 22 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006

Financial Retail Outlook 2006: Se By Katherine Bowers In their desire to penetrate and Meredith Derby cities and older, dense suburbs, both retailers have been innova- NEW YORK — As the mergers and tive in drafting stores for small acquisitions market keeps up its sites, or redeveloping existing dizzy pace, retailers face chal- buildings. Witness Wal-Mart’s lenges that go beyond the impact planned conversion of a former of consolidation. Helene Curtis shampoo factory Higher energy costs and a soft- in Chicago, or the funky, steel er housing market could make exoskeleton of Target’s Albany, this year diffi cult to navigate for Calif., store, designed to fi t into retailers across all channels, its industrial neighborhood. even the robust luxury goods seg- “Mass is an old idea. The idea ment. But consumers’ propensity of being able to reach for a ‘mass’ to spend is a powerful force, and target is pretty much gone,” ob- shoppers may surprise the more served Jeff Smith, managing part- bearish economists. For retail- ner for Accenture’s Global Retail ers, the effort this year will be Practice. “There will be format, focused on maintaining a solid price, shopping experience and fi nancial footing while growing assortment variations by market their top line. So the industry can as each player tries to carve out expect to see more concepts and audiences. Those [retailers] with formats open this year as well as the competence to fi ne-tune the more daring merchandise ini- dials will be successful. The oth- tiatives. And with consolidation ers will be marginalized.” trends freeing up valuable space, Competitors have become wily the retail real estate market sure- at fi nding opportunities inadver- ly will be stirred. tently created by the discount gi- ants. Drugstore chain Walgreens, MASS WITH CLASS for example, has been selling a Expect new lifestyle formats, growing array of toys and house- pricier and more stylish apparel hold goods in addition to tradi- and “store-of-the-community” tional drugstore wares. It’s not customization to continue to up- inconceivable they might test ap- grade the mass retail channel parel such as socks, basic T-shirts

this year. and baby outfi ts. The drug chain RICHARD CUMMINS/CORBIS JAMES LEYNSE/CORBIS; MALL BY PHOTO BY In October, Wal-Mart vice perceives a competitive advan- Forth & Towne is one of many specialty retail concepts hitting the market in 2006. chairman John Menzer touted tage in its relatively small stores the retailer’s new “masstige” that are less onerous to navigate which focuses on apparel, home es facing the group will be driv- of product and retail innovation aesthetic to a group of Wall than a 100,000-plus-square-foot decor and housewares. ing consumer spending, which is in terms of retail presentation.” Street analysts. Target execu- big box. As one of her top-fi ve predic- inescapably linked to — but not So where are the voids in the tives, speaking at their analyst All this still leaves plenty of tions for this year, Citigroup ana- altogether dependent on — mark- specialty retail sector? Brill cited conference in October, bragged room for Wal-Mart and Target lyst Deborah Weinswig forecasts down management, as well as active athletic apparel, specifi cal- their $10 billion-a-year apparel to grow, particularly at a cost Target will move into mall vacan- grabbing market share by effec- ly yoga-driven, concepts. That’s business is “a money machine” to traditional apparel players. cies freed up by the Federated- tively leading fashion newness in partially because retailers stand with gross margins “hundreds” of Department stores are at great- May consolidation. Only 7 per- the ever-competitive landscape. to capitalize not just on apparel basis points higher than typical est risk, but even some specialty cent of Target’s current stores While Abercrombie & Fitch for yoga, but also yoga-related ac- department stores, wrote Sanford retailers may fi nd sales poached are in malls, but those stores per- Co. continues to tweak its year- cessories, for example. Bernstein analyst Emme Kozloff if they don’t offer differentiated form as well as, and potentially old Ruehl brand, Chico’s FAS Tim Shimotakahara, associ- in a research report. value. better than, stand-alone stores, Inc., Aéropostale Inc. and Gap ate at investment banking fi rm But this drive for affordable Tierney Remick, global man- Weinswig wrote. The mall sce- Inc. are testing Soma by Chico’s, D.A. Davidson & Co., agrees with luxury doesn’t mean Target and aging partner with executive nario would put Target into head- Jimmy’Z and Forth & Towne, re- Brill that active lifestyle retailers Wal-Mart are abandoning mil- search firm Korn/Ferry Inter- to-head competition with depart- spectively. Guess Inc. is continu- who cater to low-impact athletics, lions of customers needing Tide national, said Target, which had ment stores in many markets. ing to roll out Marciano stores such as yoga, will be hot this year detergent and cheap socks. a stellar year in 2005, already is as well as stand-alone Guess ac- because the activity spans age Rather, each retailer made “drawing [shoppers] away from SPECIALTY CONCEPTS cessories stores, and Victoria’s groups and demographics. strides last year in profi ling who is the department stores and hav- If 2005 was the year for spe- Secret is testing its Pink inner- “Action sports [retailers], most important to them and what ing a huge impact on consumer cialty retailers to announce wear format. American Eagle board sports, lifestyle compa- opportunities each micromarket electronics.” or launch new retail concepts, Outfi tters Inc., which is not plan- nies — we’re going to see contin- holds. Wal-Mart, for example, is Accenture’s Smith specu- then 2006 will be the year for ning to roll out its new Martin + ued growth through ’06 from the becoming expert at serving the na- lated Wal-Mart might test a life- follow-through. The specialists Osa sportswear brand until the strength of ’05 driven by the gen- tion’s growing and diverse Latino style store this year that would will continue identifying future fall, recently said it is working on eral taste demand in the market,” population. Target rearranged emulate some of Target’s best growth prospects among both another new concept while also said Shimotakahara, who thinks stores to suit its favored guests, practices in soft goods. The existing and new concept stores testing an intimates subbrand. the action/board/lifestyle sports such as mom-and-baby shoppers, Bentonville, Ark., retailer oper- in order to drive incremental And ultrahot retailer Urban market was legitimized this year with departments tailored to their ates a soft goods-only concept and comp-store sales. Outfi tters Inc. is reportedly on in part by Quiksilver Inc. buying frequent purchases. in the U.K. called ASDA Living, Meanwhile, ongoing challeng- the path to identifying a couple of Rossignol and by Volcom Inc. suc- new formats. Analysts think the cessfully going public. company, which already operates Urban Outfi tters-, Anthropologie- BETTER ECONOMICS Flexible. Responsive. Relationship Driven. and Free People-branded stores, Peter Hooper, managing direc- Sterling Factors is a full-service factor whose we've grown with for so many years. could be considering a new lin- tor and chief U.S. economist gerie concept or a new one that at Deutsche Bank Securities, origins go back over 75 years. More importantly, Unlike most other Factors, Sterling has all would target upper-middle-class speaking at a New York Society we haven't forgotten that small and medium size the resources of a full-service national bank. consumers. of Security Analysts meeting businesses remain the core of our success. Our Senior Relationship Managers provide “All the top specialty retail- earlier this month, believes the That's important. We remain committed the same hands-on, high-touch personal and ers that you and I know are “consumer will hold up” this to meeting the needs of the business segment professional service that's been our style for decades. constantly on the lookout for year. He told attendees that, de- new ways to grow their business spite what may be a slowing in because growth is the name of the housing market, one should STERLING FACTORS CORPORATION the game. But it’s getting in- expect “moderate consumer STERLING NATIONAL BANK creasingly diffi cult,” said Martin growth, not a sharp drop-off.” Brill, founder and president of This is good news for the “Our Doors Are Open All The Way To The Top” retail consultancy Sweetwater high-end retailers and the de- Consulting. “There are only so partment stores. Consumer John LaLota, President John LeClair, VP/Commerical Lender many voids in the market. A lot spending in these segments has Sterling Factors Corporation Middle Market Banking of the voids have been filled been strong, but has softened (212) 575-6338 (212) 575-4415 and the competition is getting slightly, leaving analysts to won- [email protected] [email protected] tougher. To me, the key to the der how 2006 will play out. Member FDIC EST.1929 www.sterlingbancorp.com NYSE: STL new concepts is a combination Weinswig said in a recent WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 23 WWD.COM educing the Consumer research note that retailers market consolidation isn’t hav- among her broadlines cover- ing much of an impact. “Even age universe face more diffi cult with all the consolidation with comparisons in the fi rst half of Neiman Marcus and Federated 2006, at 4.3 percent, with comps and the changes going on at easing a bit in the second half of Saks, I don’t see that from a the year to 3.2 percent. The de- credit standpoint there’s going partment stores face an average to be any signifi cant weakening comp of 3.8 percent in the fi rst in that end of the market,” said half of the year, and 2.4 percent Gary Wassner, president and in the balance of 2006. principal of Hilldun Corp. Her top pick is Federated De- In fact, the consolidation trend partment Stores, whose merger of the last few years will drive re- with May Department Stores tailers to focus more closely on makes it the “most dominant their operations as they face the department store player in the challenges of a survival-of-the-fi t- world.” Upcoming asset sales test contest, factors said. — credit card portfolios, store “There has been a trend to- locations and the Lord & Taylor ward consolidation, resulting in fi - business — will help the com- nancially stressed retailers being pany pay down debt. merged into stronger, better-man- Another ongoing trend in the aged companies,” said Thomas department store sector is merg- DiMaio, senior vice president ers and acquisitions. Last year and regional manager of Hana saw Neiman Marcus Group and Financial. That trend should con- Goody’s Family Clothing get taken tinue into this year, he said. private through acquisitions by The consolidation within the private equity fi rms. This year, industry will strengthen the re- barely a month old, already saw tail base by winnowing out stores The Sports Authority announce it that aren’t doing well, Offi cina would be taken private by a fi nan- said. “We’re overinventoried with cial sponsor. Then there’s talk on retailers as it is,” he said. the Street that Saks Fifth Avenue “What we’ll see spilling into could see a similar fate. Saks’ 2006 is that some of the weaker The Galleria Parisian business is currently up players that are very lever- Shopping Mall for sale as well as Federated’s aged may be challenged,” said in Dallas. Lord & Taylor business. J. Michael Stanley, executive The fallout, as stores merge, vice president of Rosenthal & are acquired or consolidate, in- Rosenthal Inc. With most of the cludes store closures, which can retailers who have been sold Access All The Day's Fashion News Anytime, Anywhere! free up a lot of key retail space. or leveraged recently, the lack Overall, most major retailers are “in good shape. It would take a deep recession to cause concerns and there The Online Home of Women’s Wear Daily are no signs of that happening. ” — John La Lota, Sterling Factors Corp. WWD.COM Robert Drbul, equity analyst of strong, committed fi nancial at Lehman Brothers, wrote to partners has had an impact, but investors, “We believe it is im- overall, those credit issues are WWD.COM Subscribers portant to closely monitor the localized, Stanley said. valuations on any upcoming “Overall, most major retail- get the full version of the print real estate transactions, as they ers are in good shape. It would edition online PLUS: will likely prove or disprove the take a deep recession to cause theory that investors should con- concerns and there are no signs  The ability to print the entire sider certain retail stocks on the of that happening,” said John newspaper basis of their real estate alone.” La Lota, president of Sterling Factors Corp.  Web exclusives OTHER VARIABLES A cooling of the real estate Factors, firms who handle a market potentially could im-  Access to Classifieds, Events company’s accounts receivables pact expectations for the credit and People for a fee and who assess the industry this year, sources said, creditworthiness of retailers, but most think it is unlikely to  Articles categorized by industry are optimistic in their overall have a negative effect. outlooks for 2006. But it is pep- “If there is a housing market  Search the previous 10 issues pered with some caution. downturn, it could dampen con- The market is strong enough sumer spending, credit quality to weather any potential storms and job creation. Home equity that might arise this year, said extraction has offset the negative Stanley Officina, president of effect of a doubling of oil prices Ultimate Financial Solutions in the last two years, but won’t LLC. The current climate will continue. However, interest rates force retailers to focus inter- should level off this year with the nally, but that won’t negatively overall result having a neutral impact credit, he predicted. effect on the creditworthiness of “There is some fat out there the consumer-reliant customer in the retail community that has base,” said Thomas V. Pizzo, pres- to be trimmed,” Offi cina said. ident and chief executive offi cer “We’re seeing the tip of the ice- of Wells Fargo Century. berg right now with some of the — With contributions from announcements that are coming Vicki M. Young, out.” Amy S. Choi and Get one year of wwd.com for $99. To subscribe, go to wwd.com/subscribe. From a creditor’s view, recent Liza Casabona 24 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 Obituary WWD.COM Model, Muse Mallory Kean NEW YORK — Mallory Kean, Badgley Mischka’s muse Kean, a former editor of Country magazine, and her and fi rst fi t model, was killed in a car accident early third husband, Robert “Roy” Winthrop Kean 3rd, lived Friday morning in Warren, N.J. She was 52. in a house fi lled with shelves of books, especially ones Kean was traveling alone when her vehicle was hit by about her three favorite subjects: fashion, New York so- another car in the eastbound lane of I-78, and then both ciety and great families. vehicles were struck by an oncoming tractor trailer. She Her vintage couture finds from Balenciaga and lived in Far Hills, N.J. Mainbocher made her fodder for The New York Times’ Born Mallory Blimm, she was raised in New Jersey, lensman Bill Cunningham and other fashion photogra- where as a child she learned to ride horses. She attended phers, but the publicity didn’t stop her from laughing at Bard College and dabbled in waitressing on the eastern her own expense. When a photo of her in a gigantic gray shore of Maryland, but after a few semesters returned to hat at the Central Park Conservancy’s luncheon last year New York in the early Eighties. It was around that time appeared online, she referred to it as “The Hat That Ate Kean fi rst met Mark Badgley and James Mischka, when Manhattan,” Gross said. the two designers were fi rst fi nding their way on Seventh Another friend, Mark Gilbertson, said style was always Avenue, and she became their showroom fi t model. a main ingredient in Kean’s own entertaining, whether Badgley said, “We had seen so many girls and then at dinner with friends at home, “long, long Easter lunch- the agency sent Mallory up. There was nothing else like es” or tailgates at Winterthur’s annual “Point to Point” her. She was so special, so sophisticated and she per- race in Delaware. sonifi ed the clothes we were doing. She would go to all “The food was not very fi lling but it was always styl- these black ties and she would be so ravishing.” ishly displayed,” Gilbertson said. “Even though you He said patience was among her many virtues. might not know what everything was, it was very chic. “She would be standing in front of the mirror for count- There were no subs.” less hours,” Badgley said. “It was such a trial-and-error Kean’s fund-raising ties to the Museum of the City of thing going on then and she was just so fun and so smart. New York and Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center She would stand there with her long gorgeous legs and her kept her active on the New York social circuit. She and tall Manolo Blahniks, and she was just a dream. She looked her husband spent a good deal of time in the city, and like a sketch.” were always going back and forth between New York and Longtime friend writer Michael Gross said she was New Jersey, Gilbertson said. also a woman of substance. “Her friends weren’t from any one kind of back- “She was a woman who was as smart as she was well- ground,” he added. “They were eclectic. She had a mixed dressed. That’s how rare she was,” said Gross, who befriend- bag of friends.” ed Kean when they were teenagers hanging out at Max’s Judging from an Oscar Wilde quote she sent Gross for Kansas City nightclub. Her ability to light up a room was no particular reason in an e-mail, that may have been not something that faded as the years marched on, he said. by choice. “The world is divided into two classes: those “She was the kind of person who could walk into the hottest who believe the incredible and those who do the improb- restaurant in New York without a reservation, as she did able,” the e-mail read. recently at La Esquina with her husband, and within half Kean is survived by her husband and three step- an hour she would not only be at a table but every man and children. Mallory Kean woman in the place would be trying to pick her up.” — Rosemary Feitelberg

Before closing for renovations, The Plaza had just a handful of boutiques occupying a total of around 20,000 square feet, selling primarily jewelry, lingerie and sundries. The Plaza to Enter Luxury Retail Scene Any retailer moving in goes up against tough competition from Bergdorf By David Moin Goodman, Barneys New York and designer brands on Fifth and Madison Avenues and 57th Street. Also, rents will be very high. According to Futterman, rents on Fifth NEW YORK — Planning for luxury retailing inside The Plaza hotel has begun in Avenue in the Fifties range from $1,000 to $1,500 a square foot. The Plaza, located earnest. on Fifth between 59th and 58th Streets, is expected to reopen in the fall of 2007. He According to offi cials on the project, 95,000 square feet have been earmarked declined to detail rents for the space at this stage. over four levels, potential tenants are showing interest and a leasing agent has Futterman said planning the retail offering has just begun but he did provide been hired to help shape and execute the vision. some details on the layout. There will be 55,000 square feet for retail on the con- Other sources said companies that might be interested could include Harvey course level, 20,000 on the ground mezzanine, 12,000 on the ground fl oor, 8,000 on Nichols, Harrods, Lane Crawford, Holt Renfrew and the Italian Luxury Guild. The the subconcourse level and a 5,000-square-foot spa, he said. Guild is said to have presented a concept that would showcase a variety of Italian The restaurant space, including the Palm Court, Oak Room and Oak Bar, has designer shops featuring an array of merchandise, categories, foods and wines. close to 10,000 square feet in total. There is also the ballroom, banquet room and The space could get leased to one retailer or a multitude, according to Robert the reception area, making up 23,000 square feet in total. K. Futterman, who signed a contract last week to be the exclusive leasing agent for “One of the ideas is to create a luxury collection,” Futterman said. “Imagine The Plaza’s retail, ballroom and restaurant components. shops like in a department store such as Harvey Nichols or Harrods, or like the The Plaza, owned by Elad Properties, is undergoing a $350 million lobby-to- Wynn in Las Vegas. This will be something completely upscale. There have been roof renovation that also provides for 182 luxury residences and a hotel with 282 many retailers that have contacted us, from department stores to luxury type [spe- rooms and suites. It was built in 1907. Elad Properties develops luxury properties cialty] tenants, and I wouldn’t say that it’s limited to European companies. Our job in Manhattan and has a portfolio valued at $2.5 billion. is to seek out the right mix and fi t.” Cavalli’s Serpentine Set for U.S. Launch

A visual for Cavalli’s Serpentine. NEW YORK — Clarins Fragrance Group here is poised to he noted that Clarins was aiming for a top-fi ve ranking in the embark on its fi rst Roberto Cavalli fragrance launch. doors where Serpentine will be carried. The U.S.-based unit of Groupe Clarins, which took the The eau de parfum, which is described as a “fl oral, ambery” reins of ITF’s Cavalli and Gianfranco Ferré fragrance busi- mixture featuring accords of mango fl ower, mandarin, tiare fl ow- nesses in the U.S. on Jan. 1, will launch Cavalli’s Serpentine er, black pepper, frangipani, amber and sandalwood, was blended scent in April. The fragrance made its European debut last by Jacques Cavallier of Firmenich. fall. It will be available in 3.4-oz. and 1.7-oz. bottles priced at $82.50 “When we were looking last [year] and $65, respectively. Two 6.8-oz. ancillary at the ITF venture, the exciting aspect products, a bath and shower gel and a was the Roberto Cavalli piece of it,’’ body lotion, will be priced at $35 and $40, said Benjamin Gillikin, president of BEAUTY BEAT respectively. Clarins Fragrance Group. “As we have Industry sources estimate Serpentine watched in the past couple of years — on the fashion side might generate $8 million in retail sales during its fi rst year on — it became a driving business. We have an opportunity to counter in the U.S. build the fragrance business on the U.S. side.” To promote the scent, Clarins has slated visuals in retailer cat- For Serpentine, the distribution strategy is “the top of alogues and store-specifi c sampling programs. The company also the market,” Gillikin said, and will comprise fewer than is working on booking a personal appearance by the designer at 200 doors, including Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue a Saks location in New York or Beverly Hills. and Nordstrom. “That’s basically where [Cavalli fashion] “We see [Serpentine] having a very positive impact [on is, along with his own boutiques and independent specialty Clarins],” said Gillikin, who noted that, aside from the newly ob- stores — this is where there’s an awareness of him.” tained ITF scents — and its existing Thierry Mugler and Azzaro Gillikin acknowledged that Clarins may widen distri- businesses — the fi rm also is focused on Everlast fragrances, a bution of Serpentine next spring. “We [will] get a feel, see business it offi cially took over Jan. 1. “These are important new where it goes,” he said. ventures for us,” he said. Although Gillikin declined to discuss sales projections, — Matthew W. Evans WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 25

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BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Our client is a NY based well-established, well-known Im- No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Call CLOTHES-OUT: porter & Distributor of apparel with annual volume in excess (937) 898-2975 of $100 million. It has an excellent track record spanning over 25 years and a sound financial & operational infra- structure managed by a group of professionals. Client’s strengths include own state of the art manufacturing facili- ties located in south East Asia, strong & competitive sourcing capabilities & fully computerized compliant distribu- tion center. To diversify & supplement its growth they are planning to launch a Division and/or acquire an existing set up dealing in missy & junior bottoms (wovens & knits). Inter- ested entity/group must have at least $7-10 million of annu- JCPenney’s DESIGN AND PRODUCT TEAM IS GROWING! al sales and skilled & experienced team in sales, designing We are expanding our private brands creating many new opportunities for: & merchandising. Serious parties only please contact us in •Senior Designers, Associate and Assistant Designers •Senior Assistant Product Development Managers writing at the following address: •Textile Designers Berenson & Company LLP •Technical Designers Certified Public Accountants At JCPenney we encourage individuality and new ideas, foster career growth and personal 135 West 50th Street, New York, NY 10020 development. Our state-of-the-art campus is just north of Dallas, Texas, one of the biggest, Fax#- Attn: Michael Halpern; 212-245-3808 most cosmopolitan cities in America with affordable homes and no state income tax. Our Corporate Office includes an on-site fitness center, jogging trail, daycare facility, fully-staffed medical clinic, cafeterias, coffee shops, espresso bar and more.

Interested? Qualified? Apply online at www.jcpenneycareers.com under Corporate Career then Product Design or Product Development/Sourcing. FAST TO MARKET Patterns/Samples/Production For Space in Garment Center Embell. Swts 6 wks - Jeans 6 wks -Knits JCPenney offers a generous compensation package along with best in industry vacation policy, Snaps, Eyelets, Covered Bottoms full benefits package including a 401k plan with a company match and a pension plan. Helmsley-Spear, Inc. 5 wks Compliance, QC, SALESopps. Any Style - Full Service 212-880-0414 www.bcfashions.com E:[email protected] Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 718-358-8278 IN NEW YORK CITY? COME VISIT OUR BOOTH AT THE UPCOMING FASHION EXPO Search For Space In Garment Center PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- CAREER FAIR … to be held on Friday, February 10 between 10am - 3pm in New York www.midcomre.com sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 City at Gotham Hall. We look forward to meeting you there! Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 PATTERN/SAMPLES Receive/Inspect/Count/Pack/Ship Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Clean & Secure North Jersey Location Design Major Sportswear Co. looking to fill Showrooms & Lofts the following positions: BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Piece goods..Garments.. It’s all good! Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Perfect for Importers/Jobbers Tech Design Prod Asst Senior Designer Call Tom at 201-945-2727 Major Manhattan Watch Co. is looking Asst Design 1 yr. exp. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Issue initial size specs, measure for a SENIOR DESIGNER responsible CAD Artist 2-3 yrs. exp. Showroom sublet - 36th & 5th garments, issue fit comments/ for developing & merchandising watches. Knowledge of Ned Graphics a must. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Selling to Uncle Sam? Must have a creative energy & be capable 2500 Ft Showroom - Fully Built If you have factories in the U.S. and updates, communicate with High taste level, ability to create & Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 PRODUCTIONS of thinking outside of the box to create recolor prints and embroideries. All want to sell to the government, I can overseas office. Illustrator, Excel new, innovative designs & concepts. Search- www.manhattanoffices.com All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. show you how. Please E-mail: candidates must be organized, Call Sherry 212-719-0622. [email protected] & Word a must. E-mail: •Outstanding rendering ability a must energetic & be able to multi task. [email protected] •Experience working w/overseas vendors Pls fax resume to 212-221-3726 •Understand brand strategy in tune SHANGHAI MFR. with market trends PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Exp’d in better / designer evening •Trend forecasting and direction wear. Samples and productions of Design Assistant •Excellent communication & NY ACCOUNTING MNGR PRODUCTIONS any styles. Two thumbs up services. Design AssisT. - in NYC area, looking presentation skills Degreed prep fin stmts acc’t anal. Full service shop to the trade. Call Mr. Ping at (212) 980-3515 Excellent salary & benefits. Immediate Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. for bright, talented young designer to Individual will also be responsible for start immediately. Self starter or 1-2 supervising Jr. Designers and giving opening. Fax to 201-842-6777. years exp. Must be motivated, organ- direction. Illustrator, Photoshop, and ized and fast worker. Exp. in ladies ac- In-Design program proficiency req’d. Order Entry/Cust Svc cessories, hats, & cold weather a plus. Minimum 3 years experience in watches, Salary neg. - full time only need apply. jewelry or accessories preferred. E-mail For Gift Mfr Please fax to: 212-268-3265 resume to: [email protected] • Prior exp working in wholesale / showroom is a plus; Designer $80-100K. Current exp in full DESIGN • Duties include customer service, fashion sweaters. Strong Jr. fashion data entry and order processing vision. Creative. Must hang w/ Lemon- TECH DESIGNERS (2) • Strong computer skills (Word, Excel, grass, Star City, ITC etc. Call 973-564-9236 SOCKS - Men’s/ Ladies/ Kids. Outlook), & good communication ACCESSORIES C/W - Men’s/Ladies/Kids skills required; Exp’d only! Fast paced environment. Designer Salary to $35K, plus benefits. E-mail Computer a MUST. Well organized, resume to: [email protected] Assistant Buyer $35-45K Creative Designer for excellent communication skills. Leading children’s clothing company Salary Open. seeks Assistant Buyer. Candidate must Fashion Stationery be detail oriented, highly organized & GRAPHIC DESIGNER PATTERNMAKER Long Island based Stationery Co. Accessories Men’s/Ladies/Kids. Expert Ladies Social Occasion Dresses looking a strong communicator. Candidate must seeks creative designer with experi- have ability to multi-task & be computer at all CAD for fast paced environment. for only experienced individuals for an ACCT EXEC ence in fashion design. Must be detail Quick thinker, creative & organized extremely busy co. Fax resume: proficient, particularly with Excel. Can- oriented with great organizational Fast paced Spec Occasion Dress Mfgr didate will be responsible for vendor with ability to multi-task. Exp’d ONLY! 212-302-9325 seeks a high energy and motivated skills. Heavy Illustrator Design work E-mail: [email protected] relationships, tracking sales & receipts on MAC. Please fax resume with salary individual to fill an immediate opening. & writing orders. Please fax resume, Computer Skills preferred. Send resume requirements to Mel at: (631) 789-8989 Product Development Attn. Asst. Buyer (212) 367-3726 or email: [email protected] Embroidery & Textile Artists HAIR ACCESSORIES and salary history in confidence to Est’d dress Mfr seeks exp bead/emb Fabric Coordinator [email protected] designer w/ strong sketching skills & Seeking individual/factory exp’d. in pro- CHILDREN’S Major apparel company seeks Product Designer - Fashion Jewelry good color sense for in house pos. Also Development Fabric Coordinator to ducing HEADBANDS, BARRETTES , and need freelance textile artists to work other HAIR ACCESSORIES . Must be Admin Assist Sales to $40K. Min 1 yr COMPUTER Leading Branded & Private Label communicate with factories overseas. exp in analyzing inventory. Assist sales Fashion Jewelry Company offers a w/stylist on repeat layouts & hand Responsibilities include sourcing, willing to produce small quantities & paintings. Pls fax resume (212) 944-5127 samples. Call Susan at: 917-842-8230 exec of fashion co. Powerpoint. Excel ARTIST wonderful opportunity to an individual sampling, producing and approving spreadsheets. Building formulas. Linking. Major Childrenswear Company seeks a seeking a solid career path. Must have fabric. Must have excellent communi- Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency talented & experienced Girls Artist to a minimum of 3 years experience in Entry Level - Prod. Devel. cation and organizational skills. Great work in Illustrator & Photoshop. Must this field, good computer skills and benefits. complete product knowledge in this Midtown Intimate Apparel Co. seeks Please fax resume to 212.239.2766. Admin Assist to $33K. Min 1-2 yrs exp be able to draw flats, create prints, neat and detail-oriented Asst. Product plaids, appliques and embroideries. area. Must be willing to commit to a assist exec nec. Microsoft, Excel. For certain amount of travel. Salary is Development Coordinator to follow-up, Pres + HR of Fashion Co. Madison Min 2 years experience in Girls appa- issue & track samples with sample rel. Need to see a strong portfolio that commensurate with experience. Avenue/34th St. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Please fax resume to 212-573-9455 room/overseas office, monitor & update PRODUCTION includes boards. Good working condi- chart for customer/overseas office. tions plus benefits. Attn: Kristen / Michele Accessory Co. seeks production person. Fax resume w/ salary requirement to Organized & detail oriented. Comm w/ Admin Asst/Customer Svc Email resumes to: 212-337-0277 or email [email protected] Investment Opportunities [email protected] Designers overseas factories. Strong computer LAI, accessories showroom seeks admin skills. Mandarin a must. Resume: A NYC leading children’s wear distrib- asst. Duties include data entry, CHILDREN’S FREELANCE WATCH/JEWELRY Factory Mgr $80-100K current exp in [email protected] utor is seeking to acquire or develop a correspondence with European vendors, sewing factory of mens or womens strategic alliance with other children’s liaison with PR, customer service & SWIMWEAR DESIGNER DESIGNERS woven shirts, blouses. Supv. 250 in apparel &/or accessories company. general duties. Excellent computer Must have 6+ years experience in line Seeking talented individuals to join N.E. PA. Will relo. Call 973-564-9236 skills: knowledge of Access a plus . development for majors, print and color our growing team. Min. 1 year exp. Production Assistant We have the expertise, overseas network Must be able to multi-task.Great selection and trend forecasting. Great work atmosphere, benefits. Fast paced womenswear manufacturer & operational infra-structure to assure opportunity for advancement. Health E-mail resume to: [email protected] Send resume to: [email protected] Graphic Artist seeks production asst to prepare tech increase profits & efficiency. Contact benefits included. Fax resume Major Apparel Manufacturer is seek- packages to factories and to cost us to discuss these possibilities: &salary requirements to: 212-245-2038 COLORIST-Excellent home furnishings Designer to $80K. Current exp in new- ing a Graphic Artist with min 3-5 years garments. Must be very thorough and [email protected] mfr needs 2+ yrs using NED Graphics born infant toddler. Midtown growing relevant experience for their newborn detail oriented. Must have min 1 yr or AVA system/color fabrics. $$ Open /infant layette licensed and branded Admin Since 1967 Co. Branded or licensed or generic import exp and be computer literate. Les Richards Agcy Call (212)221-0870 exp OK. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY product. Package design experience a Fax resume to 212-302-3318. W-I-N-S-T-O-N Costing Coord. $50-70K. Current exp in plus. Ideal candidate should be very costing sportswear or dresses, womens, creative, organized, detail oriented as APPAREL STAFFING juniors or kids. Yardages, etc. Midtown Co. DESIGN/Sales well as a team player. Great company DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency Leading evening handbag importer is & full benefits! Must be computer ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION seeking an assertive candidate with a literate. Please e-mail resume to: (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 positive attitude! Must have fashion [email protected] or fax, attn: Design Assistant $35-45K sense, ability to work independently; Ray (212) 842-4040. EOE. Leading children’s clothing company computer literate and be detail oriented. Cadeau Maternity APAPREL STAFFING seeks Design Assistant. Duties include Job responsibilities include: all phases !!!!GREAT OPPORTUNITIES!!!! Designer-Wm’s classic wkend wear $65K all phases of design and development. of product development, set up/ attend *Artist-Girls 2-6x-Sweet Look Sample Sale Dsgnr Assist- Wm/Men outrwr exp $ Open Candidate must be extremely motivated, trade shows, small store sales. Travel *Assist Designer-Spec-Illustrator/Photoshop When: Tuesday, January 31st and Pttrnmkr/Techn Dsgnr-Wm Conn loc. $ Open organized, possess strong sketching mandatory. Looking for an applicant *Designer/Merchandiser Junior Sweaters Wednesday, February 1st Prod. Coord-Bilingual-Wm’s Sptswr To $50K skills and have the ability to spot trends. ready to commit for a growth opportunity *Designer-Yg Men Sports ex. Basketball Time: 10:00 am- 7:00pm Prod. Devel Mgr-Perform. Activewr $ Open Proficiency with Microsoft Illustrator with a well established team. Salary is *Patternmaker-First - Gerber Computer Where: Cadeau Maternity Technical Dsgnr-Wm’s Sportswear $ Open with a minimum of 1-2 yrs. of experi- commensurate with exp. *Product Mgrs-Sprtwr or socks - Hats-Glove 254 Elizabeth Street, Tech Dsgnr-Sweaters & C.N.S Knits $ Open ence is preferred. Please fax resume, Reply to: [email protected] or *Sales Assistants - Showroom exp. Between Houston and Prince Street Phone (212)302-0216 or Fax (212)302-1161 attn. Design Asst. (212) 367-3726 Fax to: 212-629-6418. Call (212)643-8090 Fax 643-8127 (AGCY) WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006 27 WWD.COM Fashion Group Honors Rising Stars Ruffi an’s Brian Wolk and Claude Morais. NEW YORK — “It takes enormous determination, The fi nalists were determined by Fashion courage, energy and passion — not to mention Group members and an industry panel. Roberto 24-hour work cycles — to make it in business Faraone Mennella and Amedeo Scognamiglio these days,” keynote speaker Liz Lange told the of Faraone Mennella picked up the award for audience at the Fashion Group International’s fi ne jewelry, and the accessories award went to ninth annual Rising Star Awards on Thursday. Gunmetal’s Michael Spaulding The awards recognize emerging talents and and George Gublo. In the beau- many past winners have gone on to successful ty/fragrance category, the cor- fashion careers. For the fi rst time, the women’s porate honors went to Clement apparel award was a tie, between Phillip Lim Gavarry of International Flavors and Ruffi an designers Brian Wolk and Claude & Fragrances Inc., while the en- Morais. trepreneur award was bestowed “It doesn’t happen like that at the Oscars,” upon Laurice Rahmé of Bond Dylan Lauren Wolk said in accepting the honor. No. 9 New York. Phillip The crowd at the New York Hilton includ- The Fashion Group gave Lim ed Jonathan Adler, Richard Lambertson, Carlos Falchi, Thom Browne the men’s apparel award, Susan Posen, Robert Lee Morris and Stefani Greenfi eld of and honored Ernest de la Torre of De la Torre Design Scoop, as well as the nominees, ranging from Zaldy Goco to Studio in the home and interior design fi eld. Darby Scott, Matthew Earnest and Woozie Wear’s Douglas In her keynote, maternity designer Lange spoke Perlman. about the initial opposition she faced from retailers, re- Dylan Lauren, who took home the award for retail, calling how one told her that pregnancy, because it was thanked Greenfi eld, who introduced her, and said Scoop, only nine months, meant that women didn’t care about in some ways, served as a model when she was develop- their appearance during that time. ing Dylan’s Candy Bar. “No matter what anyone says, if you think you have “I probably looked at all of you for inspiration, so a good idea, you probably do…don’t let anyone tell you thank you,” Lauren said. they can’t be done,” she said. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY

TRAINING Sales Account COO Louis Vuitton has the following COO sought for NY based high-end producer of designer RTW collection positions available: Executive with production operations in Canada and Italy. As a seasoned general CHILDREN’S WEAR Established luxury handbag AMMA manager you are responsible for bottom line results including all operating LVMH FASHION company seeks experi- Sales Executive enced, positive, pro-active Leading upscale fitness Apparel functions: sourcing, quality assurance, customer service, distribution, GROUP AMERICAS Prestigious European Children’s Co. w/explosive growth seeks and finance. The COO reports directly to the president by communicating Wear Company is looking sales executive to join team. RETAIL TRAINING Must have current exp. with highly qualified Sales Reps on a daily basis and keeping the president informed about business activities, for enthusiastic and motivated for the following territories: potential threats, opportunities, and recommended actions. You will advise MANAGER Sales Executive, with excellent high end specialty stores Resp incl coord/facilitating and be willing to travel as • Southwest • Midwest the president on strategic business development and make recommenda- training for new store sales and follow-up skills. • Mid-Atlantic Computer literate & experience well as handle showroom tions on business decisions. Significant air travel is required. If you have openings/expansions & sup- sales and attend trade 10+ years experience in the designer/RTW segment and a passion for porting new hire training. a must. GREAT BENEFITS! E: [email protected] shows. Excellent communi- Fax: 212-967-1204 the industry please email your resume with cover letter including compen- Must have 3-5 yrs. retail Email resume at: cation and computer skills sation requirements to: Human Resources – NYC/WWD training exp in a luxury [email protected] required. Salary $40K and E-mail: [email protected] goods environment. Strong benefits. Designer Belts presentation, interpersonal Fashion Eyewear Sales Fax resume & cover letter Nationally recognized Ladies Belt & organizational skills req’d. Safilo USA, a subsidiary of Safilo Accessories Co seeking independent Frequent travel. Group, the global leader in eyewear & to: (212) 921-2955 reps. Multiple brands for better DESIGNER RETAIL PLANNER sunwear manufacturing & distribution, market. Several territories available for right individual w/ established base International Luxury Handbag Min 5 yrs. exp. in Buying, is currently seeking professional Sales LOUIS VUITTON Reps. The positions are to sell premium Richard Leeds International of independent retailers. Special and Accessories Brand with Planning at Dept. or Chain eyewear & sunwear featuring brands Interest in Arizona, Colorado, Pacific 100 stores seeks New York strs. in a Collections area. NORTH AMERICA such as Giorgio & Emporio Armani, Intimate Apparel Northwest, Mid-Atlantic, New York. Kate Spade & Liz Claiborne to ophthal- Branded & Private Label sleepwear / Competitive commission structure. based Head Designer with focus Strong Excel skills. Exp. in IN-STORE TRAINER mologists, optometrists, & opticians. daywear / loungewear co seeks seas- Fax resume: 212 695-4497 Attn. Sales on contemporary market. Assortment, Shop, Margin Our NY Flagship is seeking Positions are currently available in the oned AE to manage and grow mass & Plng. Retail math knowledge an indiv w/min 2 yrs training NJ & NY areas. mid-tier accts. Ideal candidate will Should be able to spot fashion have 3+ yrs intimate apparel exp. trends. Please send confidential a must. Strong communica- exp in store setting within Candidates should be: energetic, hard Get Money Girl fashion/luxury goods industry. working, college educated, fashion & Merchandising skills are necessary. resume to Doug Cohen: tion and interpersonal skills style conscious, & have a self- Competitive compensation pkg. Send Sales Reps Resp incl delivery of new resume to: [email protected] INTERNATIONALRECRUITERS w/ a strong work ethic. motivating work ethic with an Premium crossover jr sportswear Production plng. exp. a plus. hire training, coord all product entrepreneurial spirit. Previous optical collection. Considerable celebrity buzz @EARTHLINK.NET training sessions; partnering sales exp is a plus, but not a require- SALES EXECUTIVE surrounds Fall ’06 launch. Only the 4-yr. deg. in Bus. Based in ment. Only career minded candidates self assured with established account our Manhattan office, a with store mgmt/corporate need reply. Compensation is dependent Successful, trendy handbag co. seeks relationships need apply. PROF. WARDROBE great opportunity with one training team to identify on exp & capabilities. self-motivated salesperson with chain/ All territories open. E-mail resume to: dept/specialty store knowledge. Min. [email protected] CONSULTANT / STYLIST of the largest and most training opptys & deliver For immediate consideration, e-mail of 3-5 years exp. in handbag or related resume to Regional Mgr at: accessory sportswear market. Attrac- SEEKS EXPERIENCED stable apparel companies. addt’l training in the store. [email protected] PATTERNMAKER / DESIGNER tive package with excellent benefits! Must have strong comm Fax resume to VP: (212) 244-5897 for custom garments. Must be experi- Fax resume w/salary history skills, proven track record in HIGHWAY JEANS enced with all fabrications and have to VP, Planning at Sales key acct $ open. Current exp in own workroom located uptown or in bldg client relationships and Exciting opportunities for: 212-868-7935. EOE. SALES PRO - Must have strong kids. Selling to dept stores. Must hang fashion district, with salon for private motivating others. Strong w/ Hilfiger Kids, Polo Kids, Burberry fittings. Call (800) 434-7898. contacts with major dept. & chain presentation skills essential. stores. Excel salary+comm+benefits Kids, Donna Karan Kids etc. Min 2 yrs TECH DESIGN - KIDSW’R OPEN $ PRODUCTION/SALES ASST - exp OK. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY QC/Tech Designer Spec Asst. $40-50K. Est’d co seeks exp’d individ for busy P/L We offer an excellent Exp a must Chinese Speaking a plus. Min 1 yr. exp thorough knowledge of products. Knowl Walmart systems a plus. Fax resume to: 212-938-0079 Senior Sales Executive woven apparel. Read patterns. Deal w/ comp/benefit package, int’l, Attn: R. Lembersky Fast growing accessory company seeks tech packs from Far East. Make sewing A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. team-oriented setting with a children’s sales executive with min of corrections. LIC loc. Call 973-564-9236. 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 5 years experience, infant/toddler exp A career growth opps. Must + but not necessary. Please call Susan TECHNICAL undergo background check. Chapman at 212-878-2035 or email to: RECEPTIONIST ILLUSTRATOR E-mail resume to: [email protected] Global Sourcing/Prod’n. Mgmt. Fast paced co. needs exp’d receptionist Fast past sportswear company seeks If you are an active, energetic, outdoor Accomplished Apparel / Textile Sourcing to handle heavy phone volume. Must [email protected] Super Sales Person individual with 2-3 years experience to EOE M/F/D/V enthusiast and want to sell the very best Exec w/extensive experience managing have good communication skills & work in busy design dept. Must know outdoor apparel in the industry, then Join our young aggressive fast paced all aspects of sourcing / production / knwldg of MS Outlook/Word. Send res: Photoshop, Adobe Illustrator and CAD. www.vuitton.com come work with us at Gramicci! We are fast growing Accessory Co. Well est’d product development seeks growth op- 212-398-4040 / [email protected] Must have knowledge of garment con- the original outdoor clothing company brands & licenses. We need your energy portunity for full or part-time basis. struction and details. Must be detail for men and women. We have several & determination to succeed. New Offices! Background in all types of woven / knit oriented, organized and able to work territories open. Pls. call Joe Dessinger, Fax resume and salary req. sportswear for men’s/boys’/women’s/girls’ RETAIL our National Sales Manager at: 212-564-9507 Sales Dir/Hi-end jewelry/10 yrs exp $100-150k in a team oriented environment. sold to mass & mid-tier stores. E-mail: Fax resume to: (212) 302-1980 Tel: (310) 994-9999 or sourcingexec@hotmail. com Store Mgr/5 yrs Hi-end exp $60-75k+ E-mail resume: [email protected] FAX: 212-481-4086 [email protected] W Y E T H If you are self-motivated, and love B Y T O D D M A G I L L the outdoors as we do, then this is an Sample Maker $40-50K. LOS ANGELES - PATTERNMAKER opportunity you do not want to miss! Current exp in making bra samples. Fast growing high-end women’s contem - Midtown Co. Call 973-564-9236 porary collection seeks Patternmaker. National Sales Manager Jaral Fashion Agency Minimum 5 yrs. experience on Gerber. Est’d handbag line seeks National Sales Jack Black Must have strong sense of design. Ability Manager to manage sales force & acquire Prestige Men’s Grooming brand, Jack to make first through production new accounts. Must be self-motivated, Black seeks a dynamic, motivated NYC Tech Designer Sweaters + Knits to $85K proactive, detail-oriented & computer retail SALES COORDINATOR.Demon- Tech Designer JR woven tops to $85K patterns a must. Communication skills with in-house sample sewers/cutting. skilled. Strong relationships with majors strated strong personal selling skills in Tech Designer Menswear to $85K a must. Pls. submit resume with salary retail environment required. E-mail all Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency Salary plus benefits. Please fax resume, attn. HR Dept. (310) 733-4402 history to: [email protected] resumes to: info@getjackblack .com or Email: [email protected] Cotton Incorporated, 2002. © porated. Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incor Registered Service Mark/Trademark ® TERS. AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR PRODUCERS AMERICA’S COTTON

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