WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 1

Wrangell St. Elias News

“Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty” Volume Sixteen Issue Two March & April 2007 $2.50

One tale Dad loved to tell, t was the fall of over and over, was how Coffin, I1958. My lifelong during one of his trips with Gill school chum, Dick in the interior, had medically Renner and I had just helped one of the great native graduated from high old-timers in that part of the school in Cordova. Dick country — a lady who was one and I had enjoyed hunting of the last to be born at Taral goats and geese on the across the river from Chitina. coast, and when an oppor- Dad’s version of the story was tunity to go after the undoubtedly embellished. At famed Dall Sheep in the one time, Dr. Coffin and Gill upper reaches of the Chi- were involved in some sort of tina River in the Wrangell Photo courtesy the author sheep hunt goof up. About the Mountains came along, In 1958, during sheep hunting season, Cordova Air- same time, Suzie, the indige- we were eager to give it a line would often overnight a DC-3 in May Creek. The nous and aged Athabascan from try. crew would drive a jeep over to the McCarthy Lodge. Taral, had a medical problem This area had become that Coffin cured. So, according the favorite hunting territory of Bob was using one of Cordova’s Stinson to Dad, Suzie used to say, “Him Gill, a long-time commercial fisher- Reliants. great doctor, not much hunter.” man from Cordova. Gill had been A very popular medical doctor Dad loved to tell that, and truthful- sheep hunting in the Wrangells for from Cordova, Raymond Coffin, re- ly, Ray liked to hear it. located to the Territory from over a decade. He was our leader page on continued 7) (story and the only one of the group who the New England states be- knew anything about sheep hunting. cause of Alaska’s great out- Matter of fact, he was one of the doors. He even brought his only guys around Cordova who knew Maine canoe to Cordova. But much about it. Coffin couldn’t get away Gill had been hunting the from his practice in Cordova Wrangells even before Jack Wilson very often. When he did he or Howard Knutson showed on the absolutely loved to hunt. He scene as pilots for Cordova Airline. especially enjoyed sheep His sheep hunting experience began hunting in the interior with with Herb Haley as pilot; it was still Gill. My father, “Mudhole,” and the doctor were very Photo courtesy the author Cordova Air Service then, and Herb Gill’s “cave”—Harley King, at far left. (At the close friends. They loved to time Harley lived in Cordova; later he moved kid each other. to Long Lake.) Dick Renner and his father Ralph are also pictured. PAGE 2 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 A note from the publisher (hope it wasn’t necessary from all locals are crossing it safely once

t is March 2nd. Rick and I are the typing that goes into her shar- again. Ijust about to pull out the ing those scrumptious recipes with If you tried to call anyone in Ricoh printer and begin the us!). Being in a splint really cuts McCarthy and the outlying area on next stage of producing the back on her typing capabilities. We January 29-31 or February 22 and March/April issue of WSEN, the fi- all wish you a speedy, complete re- 23 and didn’t have any success, it nal product. For those of you who covery, Peggy. was because our long-distance and have recently come on board as a The month of February brought local service was out of commission. subscriber, we do the entire WSEN the news of the passing away of two Thanks to Copper Valley Telephone here in our log cabin located on the community pillars —Ed LaChapelle and AT & T’s repair crew, we are up outskirts of McCarthy. We have lived of McCarthy and Lance Gilpatrick of and running again. When our phone here on this property west of the Chitina/Valdez. Both men will be service goes down, things get really Kennicott River since the summer greatly missed. Our prayers go out quiet, especially in the winter of 1978 after spending a year at to Ed’s Meg and Lance’s Susan and months. Several folks, us included, Long Lake, about 15 miles from their families. Please note a person- have Starband dishes for internet here. al story written by Ed’s son, David, access. Communication has become Rick and I began Wrangell St. who is also well-known in the McCa- a high priority in many our lives, Elias News the summer of 1992, rthy area, on page 6. Due to our lim- whether it’s with our family mem- thinking it may only be the ited space, David gave us permission bers, friends or neighbors. We are July/August issue in celebration of to shorten it. We thank you, David, always glad for the capability to con- the 4th of July. We are now on our for so kindly sharing your heart’s tact our telephone providers in 83rd issue and still going strong, thoughts with us on such short no- Glennallen or Valdez or each other thanks to you and your continued tice. when there is an emergency situa- interest in the news from and affect- Since our last issue, the McCa- tion on our community. Things have ing the McCarthy/Kennicott area. rthy area experienced a very unusual certainly changed since the early The cover story, White Sheep occurrence with the opening of the days when we first came to this area Paradise, is written by a long-time Kennicott River. Residents were us- in 1978 when our local communica- contributor to WSEN, Kenny Smith. ing a snowmachine crossing over tion was CB radio. Our only contact Kenny never ceases to surprise us the ice for quite some time, but with the “outside world” was via the with the myriad of stories he recalls that came to an abrupt end the mail or Amateur Radio. (Rick and I from his experiences in this wonder- third week of January. You can read are “hams,” in case you couldn’t ful state of Alaska. Many of you will Keith Rowland’s account of Hidden tell!) recognize some of the characters in Lake Dumps Mid-Winter on page 8 WSEN welcomes aboard the fol- Kenny’s story of Cordova hunters in with pictures by local pilot and resi- lowing subscribers: Larry and Mau- the Wrangells. dent Don Welty. For the past week, reen St.Amand, AK; Pete Mapes, AK; Peggy Guntis, Cooking with Peg- and I’m sure with the help of the Mike Nolte, NC. Online subscribers: gy, passes on her regrets for such a frigid temperatures that dropped to Michael Stemper, NY; Mark Cassell, short column this issue, but she is -42, the river is now frozen over and Aric Morton, Miles Erickson, WA. recuperating from wrist surgery

Wrangell St. Elias News (USPS 011301) VOL. Sixteen, Issue Two, March & April 2007. Published every two months at McCarthy, Alaska. McCarthy, PO Box MXY, Glennallen, AK 99588-8998. Phone (907) 554-4454. FAX (907) 554-4494 E-mail: [email protected] “Copyright © 2007 by Wrangell St. Elias News. No part of this publication may be reproduced by any means without the express permission of the publishers.” Contributors to this issue: Peggy Guntis, George Cebula, Ned Rozell, Don Welty, Keith Rowland, David LaChapelle, Jeremy Keller, Kaylin Moffitt, Susan Smith and Kenny Smith. Subscription price is $14 for one year in the USA. Canada $16. Other countries $23. Advertising rates upon request. Deadline for publication in next issue is April 15. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT GLENNALLEN, AK. 99588. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Wrangell St. Elias News, McCarthy #42, PO Box MXY, Glennallen AK 99588-8998. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 3 Items of Interest

ed itself. I think this is only two enabled you to upgrade your po- Jim and Audrey Edwards: times it has been like that for sition with the ferry system! Just because it’s winter in McCa- more than a few days in the 33 Jim Kreblin: Jim lives down rthy doesn’t mean Jim and Au- years I have lived by Swift Creek. the road, about 15 miles, from drey take the season off and bury Sometimes physical phenomenas us. His cabin is on the bank of their “to-do” list under the snow are quite interesting!” Long Lake, our frequent ice-fish- (which finally arrived). The Ed- Dan Elofsen: Rick and I were ing spot. He doesn’t come up wards’ just don’t get bored. I surprised to see Dan back in the this way too often in the winter, guess that isn’t on their list. neighborhood. His job with the but the other day he snowma- They decided to continue Alaska Marine Highway ferry sys- chined toward McCarthy looking their kitchen-upgrade project tem keeps him away from home for his dog, Nomad, who was —out with the scratched, burnt, several months out of the year. happily visiting locals in our peeling, old yellow countertops But, we can be sure when he has neck of the woods. Nomad espe- and in with the brand new light the opportunity, he comes cially enjoyed seeing fellow play- blue-gray counters. A bit of re- home. When he returned the mate, Sophie. Even though we work on the outlets are the icing latter part of January, he man- are in the middle of another cold on the cake. “They look better,” aged to do some major remodel- snap (-42 degree F. our recorded says Jim. I’m sure Audrey is ing. low), the dogs played gleefully spending more time in her kitch- Dan said he was in dire need while chasing each other be- en these cold wintery days. I ex- of an insulated floor for his cab- tween George’s place and ours. pect all that extra work, Jim, is in. Instead of working from the Recognizing Nomad we knew well rewarded by the extra good- bottom of the cabin, he simply we were up for a visit from Jim. ies that Audrey is turning out built a well-insulated floor, Sure enough, he showed up on these days. called in the nearby neighbors our doorstep. We had a nice vis- Jim says he is thankful their who assisted him in moving the it, catching up on his winter ac- water well is working fine this cabin onto the newly-built floor. tivities. With all these cold year. It seems there has been no He guesses there were about 6 temperatures lately no one, in- water in Swift Creek these past house movers altogether, armed cluding himself, is venturing too several months. The creek nor- with crow bars and muscles, who far from home if they don’t have mally flows down the hill behind turned out in full force and got to. He reports that things are their hangar, under the runway the job done in one day. quiet AND COLD at Long Lake. and into the creek bed that flows Some folks bungee jump for He chose to come at the warm- in front of their house. It has fun, he said, others, like himself est part of the day and dressed in proved a real treasure in years and his crew, move cabins in the his warmest winter clothing. past. Jim recalls another year middle of winter! Snowmachines might have hand when it disappeared. That time it I asked about his folks, and warmers, which are a great bless- was pre-well days: “Several years he said their log cabin is being ing, but the driver is still ex- ago, we had the problem that no built in Palmer and they hope to posed to the frigid air all around water whatever was coming down have it brought in this upcoming him. the creek here by the house. July and placed on their newly- Our conversation quickly That was very unusual. It was a acquired property next door to came around to this year’s ice- nuisance to haul water in 5-gal- Dan’s. I’m sure this will turn out fishing derby at Long Lake. Jim lon buckets from McCarthy and to be a fine item of interest for keeps hinting at a new category then hand pump it up into the our summer edition of WSEN! for the derby which includes (of (water storage) tank. Whatever By the way, Dan, congratula- all things) bowling balls and the cycle, it evidently has repeat- tions on passing the exams that pins. This has my curiosity PAGE 4 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 piqued for sure. Check further they don’t have time to twiddle folks being temporary and others down in Items for the derby de- their thumbs, even if the winter being long-term. The upkeep of tails. temperature dip to the minus the McCarthy Road this winter George Cebula and Sophie: -40s! has been excellent (thanks to George and dog Sophie returned I just got off the phone with DOT and the Chitina crew!) from a 3-month road trip to the Lynn. She and Don are getting a which greatly aids in folks travel- lower 48 where he spent the hol- jump start on spring time, realiz- ing to and fro. iday season with family and visit- ing the sun is now higher in the Here is a run down on some ed a variety of acquaintances. sky, and their solar panels are in of those familiar faces: Dave and He arrived home on February for some of that good free ener- Renee Person paid a short visit 14th and is finally unpacked, set- gy. However, on closer inspec- to their new log home during tled back in and waiting for the tion, they decided it was a good the second week of January. Jay rest of winter to run its course. time to take out a few standing Williams and his son Nick ar- With all these blustery cold tem- trees that were blocking the rived a few days later. The Wil- peratures occurring so soon af- sun’s rays to their panels. Lynn liams’ family have a cabin near ter he returned, he may be said the job (like most jobs out the Persons’ place. Both families wishing he had stayed a bit lon- here) is taking more time than live in Fairbanks but look for- ger in sunny, warm Tucson. He anticipated. Not only is the har- ward to their frequent trips to reports that Jim and Peggy Gun- vesting of the trees providing our area. Michelle Casey and tis are doing well. George ac- them firewood for next winter’s son Carl, who relocated to Val- companied Jim on an electrical heat but is clearing the way for dez about a year ago, make the job and gave him another set of another kind of energy — trip out to their west side prop- hands for a day. Another couple, electricity. erty as often as they can. It is Ken and Carly Kritchen, who are Lynn remarks that burning always good to see them and still warmly remembered by their the brush piles help keep her wish they could visit more often. McCarthy friends, just moved warm while she is outside during They were here the weekend of into their new log home located these cold temperatures. February 17th. Trig Trigiano in Bakers City, Oregon. George Another project the Weltys braved McCarthy’s cold snap on makes the Kritchen’s new loca- are working on is an indoor con- February 24th to bring in a load tion one of his annual stops. struction job on the crew house of supplies for his home on the Since Gene and Edith for employees of Wrangell Moun- “J” road. He’s getting things Coppedge relocated to northern tain Air. The cold weather has ready to spend more time in our Georgia recently, George and curtailed that job momentarily neighborhood now that he is Sophie added Summerville to his but they are expecting to return semi-retired. Although he didn’t itinerary. Although we all will to that soon. stay long, he assured us he’ll be back. There’s no place like his miss their smiling faces at the About a week ago Don took McCarthy home! Silver Lake Campground, David and Kaleb Rowland and George reports that they are set- Carl Gressel ice-fishing at Long Mail days in McCarthy are tled into their home. Lake with the results less than twice a week —on Wednesdays Welcome back, George and desired —3 bites and one fish. and Fridays. This time of year Sophie! However, Don reports that all locals are returning from outside Don and Lynn Welty: Since I participants thoroughly enjoyed trips to visit family or take their started writing Items of Interest, the snowmachine excursion. annual vacation excursions. Di- anne Milliard, Mark Wacht, one thing that stands out the Locals and visitors come Christine Johnson, Dave Hollis, most to me is the fact McCarthy and go: As the daylight hours Gary Green and Diana, and Kel- folks just don’t seem to suffer increase, locals and visitors be- ly, Natalie and Tessa Bay are from the malady of boredom. I gin making trips in and out for a such who fit into that category. admit that many will say to me, variety of reasons. Soon it will be We welcome everyone back “I’m not doing anything very ex- spring break and we’ll see an home and trust each one had a citing,” but, for the most part, even great influx, with some great time! WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 5 Neil Darish: Rick and I paid School work is always on the time for spring break. No partic- Neil a visit the other afternoon agenda for the majority of the ular starting time, says Jim, but at his newly-remodeled home in week, but accompanying dad most local participants usually downtown McCarthy. With all Keith on the family’s trapline is begin arriving between 9 and 10 the recent construction work another major priority. That al- am. (Say, Jim, could you have and upgrades to Neil’s quarters, ready makes for an action- Nomad start digging the holes we thought we were stepping packed week. earlier this year?) into a different building. A few On the “to-do” list these days Prizes will be given for the more touch-ups and the place is the planning of the family’s largest fish caught in the boys will be classified finished spring-break when family and and girls and adult age groups. A (although most dwellings in Mc- friends arrive in town to “play in hot lunch of homemade chili and Carthy are never “quite” fin- the snow.” Forget spelling or roasted hot dogs will be served ished). What a beautiful job Neil schoolwork —period —during “on the ice.” Jim realizes the and his fellow workers have done mid-March this year. It is time to eager fishermen and women to-date. He praises the foreman fine tune the snowmachines and don’t like to wander far from of the crew, Jeremy Keller, with make sure skiis and boots are all their favorite fishing hole! all the handiwork. I would say accounted for. The Rowland Those who aren’t too keen that Neil is no slouch either young folks are eagerly awaiting on ice-fishing can participate in when it comes to decorating and their cousins’ arrival, more play- a new game —ice bowling. Jim making a place feel like home. ers and more fun in the snow is has already acquired 30 bowling He gave us the grand tour over soon to be had by all. pins and 6 light-weight bowling coffee and brownies. Thank you, DOT and others! balls for those who want to try This last Wednesday, Febru- Many thanks go to the DOT their hand at this interesting ary 28th, Neil left on a trip to the workers in the Chitina station (this is always a good descriptive big city of Anchorage where he for all their dedication to keep- word to use for something I’m plans on being on hand for the ing the McCarthy Road and the not quite familiar with!) and start of the Iditarod 2007. McCa- airstrip safe for winter use this unique winter game. rthy Lodge, which Neil is an own- year. They always have a chal- For further information, you er, is a major sponsor of Jeremy lenge especially when it comes may call Jim Kreblin at 554- Keller and dog team, first-time to the continual winter road gla- 4434. participants of the famous race. ciers. Chitina Ice- Fishing Derby: I’m sure Neil and other familiar Thanks also go to John Ad- Come out and join the family fun faces from the McCarthy/Kenni- ams and Keith Rowland who at Chitina’s fourth annual ice- cott area will be present to cheer came to the rescue of our local fishing derby to be held on April Jeremy and his dogs out of the westside roads and driveways 7th from 11 am to 4 pm. There is starting line and well on their that are not on DOT’s list of “to- no entry fee and holes will be way to the finish. We’ll look for- do’s.” provided. Limited lodging is also ward to a first-hand report when A big, heartfelt THANK YOU available. you return, Neil! from local residents and visitors The person catching the larg- The Rowland family: Earlier for a superb job done by all the est fish will be granted the in Items I mentioned the word operators! Grand Prize of approximate “boredom.” It is a word that is Long Lake Ice-Fishing Der- $300 value. A lot of door prizes rarely used by McCarthyites, and by: Well, it’s that time of year will be given as well. Immediate- I dare to say, in the Rowland again, says Jim Kreblin, our ly following the derby will be a household. If Laurie were to use Long Lake ice-fishing Grand free pig roast held at Uncle that word in her homeschool Marshal. Dig out your fishing Tom’s Tavern who is this year’s spelling class, her students, Ka- rods, fellow fisherfolk, and sharp- sponsor of the event. leb, David, Daniel, Hannah and en up those hooks and lures. Jim Jubal, would, most likely, have to For further information, you announces this year’s derby — ask her, “What does that word may contact Beth at 823-2252 our third annual —to take place mean?” or 823-2253. on Saturday, March 24th. Just in PAGE 6 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 There was always the mountains: the passing of Edward LaChapelle

His theory was that if she could I remember speaking with an Editor’s note: The following sto- keep Ed immobile for a period of acquaintance of my father’s in Alas- ry, written by Ed’s son, David, is a time then the damaged nerve tissue ka a few years ago about his amaz- condensed version used by permis- would grow back and he might re- ing stamina in the mountains. This sion. Thank you, David, for sharing gain more function. My grandmoth- man was marveling at my father’s your story with us. er put her faith in the doctor’s ability, at 75, to leave much young- n the morning of Febru- knowing. She kept her five-year-old er men behind as they made their Oary first, the eve of a full son immobile for a month, covering way up a nearby mountainside. The moon in the heavens, Ed his legs with a cardboard box and man said, “He simply set a pace, LaChapelle went powder skiing at reading stories to him to keep his slow and measured, which he never Monarch Pass, Colorado. On this attention focused on something altered. In the end we were left be- day he was to ski his way into anoth- other than his body. My father hind by the steady of strength of his er world. At around noon, with the drank the waters of Tahoma, was maturity.” sun high in the sky, his heart began sheltered in the fierce protection of The only remnant of polio for to falter. He left this plane of exis- his mother’s faith and drew on his my father would be an occasional tence by mid-afternoon. own strength as the doctor's hunch intense leg cramp that usually was shown to be true. Slowly, steadi- To understand why my father would happen at night when he was ly, my father’s leg strength did be- would leave us on a perfect powder sleeping. I remember, as a child, gin to return. He was to walk with a day on a Monarch’s slopes we need hearing him writhe in pain from the limp his whole childhood. In high to go back to his childhood. His intensity of these cramps. I asked school, determined to change his childhood and his destiny were ar- him about his cramps only a few limp, my father joined the high ranged around “The Mountain.” days before he skied into eternity. school track team. He never once Ed’s early days were spent at the He said that he hadn’t had one in a placed in any events, but by the end foot of Mount Rainier, near Seattle. while, and that even though he had of the year he no longer had the He played, hunted, hiked and ex- been trying all his life, he couldn’t limp. plored the landscape that was domi- figure why the cramps happened nated by the volcano. His love of With the force of his determina- when they did. The scientist in him mountains began within the em- tion my father had honed his body had still been trying to unravel this brace of “Tahoma” (The Mother of so that it would serve him in his mystery. all Waters). He would need the life’s passion. On his twenty first Some mysteries we take with us strength of mother mountain and birthday he climbed Mt. St. Helens, when we leave. His cramps were the his own mother as he would face a Mt. Adams and Mt. Hood in three shadow of his astonishing physical most difficult test. consecutive days. All three of these ability, an ability which enabled him My father remembered very mountains afforded him an excel- to climb mountains, ski powder, clearly reaching for a salt shaker at lent view of Tahoma, the anchor of launch glacier expeditions in Green- the dinner table as a young child, his childhood. land, Alaska and Washington State and missing the object. He knew I came across a letter from Ed’s and to live self-sufficient in the Alas- something was seriously wrong. Ed mother after she passed away. In it kan bush until his eightieth year. had contracted polio. He quite rap- she was answering a request from My father had a mountain idly lost motor control of significant Ed, now a middle-age man, to move “conversion” while he was in his late portions of his body. His mother back from Hawaii to the mainland teens. At this time he was working took him to a family physician in so he could be closer to her. She at the Paradise Lodge on the side of Tacoma to seek help. This practitio- said to him, “Because I gave you the Mount Rainier as a bell hop. In a ner would altar the potential path of first twenty years of your life, you letter to my mother which I found my father’s life greatly. In his offi- will understand if I take the last for the first time this week after cial capacity, the doctor explained twenty for myself.” both of their passings, he described that there was not much that could It was her dedication to him, his experience of the mountain: be done except to alleviate the massaging him often, watching over symptoms and let the disease run “...One day 15 years ago when— him, rubbing oils into his legs and its course. But as my Grandmother oh, this itself is a miracle—I looked tending him that helped give him was leaving he took her aside and out from the porch of the employ- the gift of his mountain legacy and said that he had a theory about the ees dorm at Paradise the second day the nurturing of his capacity. disease which might help her son. I had come up there to work for the (continued on page 13) WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 7

(continued from Cover) We left Cordova on a Cor- camp. There was a small cave up dova Airline DC-3 for May high on the mountains that Gill Creek a week before the sea- had found years before, so that is son began. In those days May where we headquartered. In those Creek and Chisana were the days, the white sheep or “Ovis dal- only airports east of the Cop- li” rams looked like maggots per River capable of accom- spread across the green rolling modating a large aircraft. hills and steep cliffs north of the Cordova Air would run hunt- Chitina River. Gill had us take a ing specials with the big sheep the second day, to be used plane back then, so the DC-3 as camp meat for the next week. was full of sheep hunters and Even in those days that undertak- Photo courtesy the author an entire season’s hunting Cordova Airline bush pilot, Howard Knutson, up- ing wasn’t entirely in accordance supplies for the horseback- on returning some of his hunters and their tro- with territorial game regulations. guiding operations at Chisa- phies to May Creek. We ate that sheep almost in na. May Creek was an inter- its entirety. Gill had brought all mediate stop on the way. the ingredients for stew. So we Howard Knutson flew us into had hunted the Chitina River for so had sheep stew all the time, made base camp after we got off in May long he had it down to a science. in a 5-gallon gas can with the top Creek. Just before we took off for Gill’s sheep paradise was five miles cut out. During the day we were cov- base camp, two Cordova friends, west of Canyon Creek on MacColl ering so much country I was always Harley King and Ed Bilderback Ridge. We expected to have to cross starved. I will never forget that stopped by in Harley’s Super Cub. the Chitina River on an inflatable sheep stew which made the best They had just stayed overnight in raft that Gill brought, as there was meal I have ever tasted. (I never had McCarthy with Cal and Viola Aiken. no place to land close to shore on sheep meat again with which to We asked them to join us. the north side. However, the chan- make another stew, with A few days later they did. one exception. A few years Neither Harley nor Ed ago, our good friend and knew anything about guide at McCarthy, Don sheep hunting either. Ed Welty, gave me some was a fisherman as well as fresh sheep meat. My wife a big game guide on the Donna was in with me at coast. Ed was Fred Bear’s the time and had heard Kodiak brown bear guide. me rave over the years Bear is the famous name about Gill’s stew. She in the archery hunting made a stew that evening business. Harley guided for out of Welty’s sheep. All I Ed. The “Valiant Maid” can say about that is, was the name of Ed’s boat. wow, it put me back on One of the crewmen on the slopes of the Chitina Photo courtesy the author again, reliving the 1958 the “Maid” also joined us Top Camp—Gill is in the doorway of his “cave”. The gear hunt.) for the hunt, making a was stored inside but the hunters slept outdoors. total of seven in our party. After the season Gill lived for the outdoors and opened, officially, we all nel changed that year and we were hunting. All he ate was wild game. got a ram. Gill was a hunter who able to land near the north bank Deer, goat, sheep, ducks, geese and salvaged almost everything from the and did not have to cross the river. salmon. Later, the moose herd hunt. Capes, meat, horns, you name around Cordova got harvestable so Arriving a week early allowed us it. Gill even made lamps, for gifts, he added that to his diet. Since Gill plenty of time to establish a base out of hooves. So he took all of that camp and a few days later, a top (Continued on page 25) PAGE 8 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 Hidden Lake dumps mid-winter

Normally, the idden Lake surprised our lake starts fill- Hlocal community by ing in spring- draining the week of Jan time and 21. On Wednesday, Jan. 24, I no- drains some- ticed clear water running over the time in July or ice on the Kennicott River near the August, flood- service bridge. Just some overflow, I ing the already thought. The temperature that swollen Kenni- morning was only 7 degrees F, and cott River. It it had not been above freezing all appears that month. Strangely, the water in- the sub-glacial creased in volume throughout the drainage chan- day. By Thursday morning, the Ken- nels must have nicott River was flowing “bank-to- closed off early bank”—about equal to normal sum- last fall, allow- mer high flow—with muddy brown ing Hidden Lake to cap- Photo courtesy Don Welty water. Just two days earlier, the Kennicott River was completely ture our tre- There was much speculation frozen over and snowmachines were crossing the ice. buzzing around our community mendous fall about what could possibly be hap- flood waters, pening, but most locals had a pretty which filled the lake. Since Hidden From our house overlooking the good hunch it was Hidden Lake Lake is in a remote area, no one Kennicott River, we are serenaded draining. Local pilot, Don Welty, noticed it filling. all summer long by the distant roar confirmed this on Saturday. After of the river as it rushes toward the flying over the area, he said Nizina over huge boulders. that the lake had completely Then, as winter cold shrivels drained, and it appeared the the river to the size of a lake had been close to its nor- large, clear creek and the mal ‘full’ level before the stream is covered by ice and drainage as evidenced by snow, the roar subsides. For shore ice left behind. the next five cold, dark months, the valley is silent The Kennicott River ap- except for the hooting of peared to peak sometime Fri- owls, the howling of coyotes, day the 26th after an and the buzzing whine of approximately 5-foot rise in Don Welty’s chainsaw. As water level. Two and a half the Hidden Lake flood wa- weeks later, the water had ters rushed past our bluff subsided to normal levels. this winter, the most notice- During this time, all able thing was the return of snowmachine traffic had to the river’s roar, seeming cross the footbridge or ser- even louder in the cold, still vice bridge—and you should winter air. see the sparks fly from those I was interested to learn carbide ski skegs zinging that a glacier-dammed lake across the open grating of the up Skilak Glacier (upper footbridge! Kenai River) drained the Long-time McCarthy resi- same day, also never before dent, Jim Edwards, says in Photo courtesy Don Welty having drained in the win- his 50+ years in the valley, View from the air looking upstream. Residents were ter. Hidden Lake has never shocked by the sudden event in late January. drained during the winter. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 9 Record budget increases proposed for Alaska park units in 2008

he President’s $2.4 billion has been lost over the past several emergency response times, and re- TNational Park Service years to budget erosion, as well as duced maintenance have resulted. budget for Fiscal Year providing operating funds for fuel, Lake Clark National Park and Pre- 2008 calls for the largest increase in utilities, vehicles and other support serve, $137,000 + $152,000 sea- park operations’ funding ever pro- costs. More than $1 million is pro- sonal posed and leveraged public-private posed to cover increases in fixed op- The new funding will sustain the investments that could generate as erating costs such as salaries, park's field operations at the Silver much as $3 billion to help the parks building rents and utilities. Also pro- Salmon Creek Ranger Station and prepare for their 100th birthday in posed is a regional increase of about aircraft operating support to back- 2016. It is the largest increase ever $1 million to a program within the country ranger stations, and add sea- for park operations, that category of NPS which funds one-time and recur- sonal rangers. Rising fuel and utility the budget that pays employee sala- ring maintenance projects in parks. costs have significantly affected the ries, utilities – the money it takes to “This proposal treats Alaska very park’s ability to maintain remote keep parks open for visitors. This well, and we’re pleased that this level operations and provide support to increase in operations’ ($100 mil- of support is offered in the Presi- volunteers who frequently staff rang- lion identified for the National Park dent's budget,” said NPS Alaska Re- er stations. Centennial Initiative) funding gional Director Marcia Blaszak. means 3,000 new seasonal employ- “These proposals recognize the large Denali National Park and Pre- ees, or what the public sees as Park mission of resource protection and serve, $746,000 + $380,000 sea- Rangers: 1,000 for interpretation, providing for increasing numbers of sonal visitors to the parks.” Funding would restore basic 1,000 for maintenance and 1,000 maintenance support for core visitor The increases bring the pro- for resource protection. The FY2008 services and information facilities posed 2008 budget for national budget proposal is the first financial within the park entrance area and parks in Alaska to almost $60 mil- infusion for the President’s Initia- along the road, and allow the park to lion, including operation of the re- tive to ready America’s parks for the meet legal requirements for its water gional office in Anchorage and other 2016 Centennial of the National system. Since 2002, the park has lost non-park programs. Nationwide, the Park Service. six seasonal positions and support National Park Service budget for National park units in Alaska funding in its maintenance opera- 2008 is proposed to be a record $2.4 would see significant visitor service tion; and its water system has been billion, a $230 million increase in and maintenance improvements un- found by the Public Health Service to park operations’ funding over the der the fiscal year 2008 budget pro- be out of compliance because of in- 2007 budget request. posed by President Bush last month. adequate emergency staffing. Pro- The proposed FY-2008 funding The President's budget proposes posed funding would also allow the increases include: more than $6 million in increases for park to rebuild its safety program, Alaska parks, primarily focused on Sitka National Historical Park, restore key maintenance positions, visitor services, resource protection $168,000 + $55,000 seasonal and hire staff to fill critical law en- and maintenance. About one-third Funding would provide seasonal forcement, visitor service and emer- the funds, or $2.03 million, are pro- staff to restore interpretive visitor gency response capacity. posed for hiring seasonal staff. In services at the Russian Bishop's Western Arctic National Park- Alaska parks, a total of 123 season- House, restore adequate mainte- lands, $297,000 +$42,000 season- als, or about a 25% increase, would nance of visitor use areas, increase als (4 parks) be distributed among parks and the resource management capabilities, Funding is proposed to provide Public Lands Information Centers in and increase health and safety pro- maintenance and visitor services, Fairbanks and Anchorage. National- tection. Since 2002, budget erosion and utility and fuel costs for the new ly, the budget proposes $40.6 mil- and rising fixed costs have resulted Western Arctic National Parklands lion for hiring 3,000 seasonals. in the lapsing of four of 10 seasonal visitor and cultural center which will Additionally, the FY-2008 budget interpretive positions, one of two opening in Kotzebue in 2008. The includes about $1.8 million in in- seasonal maintenance positions, and facility will house a visitor center, creases to parks for the restoration one of three permanent maintenance maintenance facility, and offices. of permanent and other staff which staff. Fewer building tours, longer The 11,110 square foot visitor and PAGE 10 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 cultural center is a partnership with programming and visitor contacts cility, which opened in 2006, the NANA Regional Native Corpora- are made on-board cruise ships brought together park staff from tion. The funding will also pay a por- which carry more than 350,000 peo- Gates of the Arctic and Yukon Char- tion of a building lease in Nome, and ple annually. Park interpreters spend ley River National Preserve, along add seasonal employees. 10-12 hour days on-board each ship with regional science and fire pro- visiting the park. grams and various Fairbanks-based Glacier Bay National Park and employees from other NPS parks and Gates of the Arctic National Park Preserve, $110,000 + $326,000 programs. seasonals and Preserve, $339,000 +$40,000 Other proposed increases in- Funding is proposed to restore seasonal a supervisory park ranger position Funding is proposed to im- clude seasonal funding at Wrangell- for interpretive operations at the 3.3 prove the park's radio dispatch ca- St. Elias ($299,000); Katmai million-acre park, and add seasonal pacity and add a margin of safety, ($302,000); Kenai Fjords interpretation and maintenance training and support for backcountry ($131,000); Klondike Gold Rush staff. In the past decade, visitation ranger and aircraft patrols. The re- ($182,000); Yukon-Charley Rivers has increased by 42 percent, due in quest would also allow the park to ($24,000); and the Anchorage and part to increased vessel traffic in the cover new, higher lease costs for an Fairbanks Alaska Public Lands Infor- park. Much of the park's interpretive office building in Fairbanks. The fa- mation Centers ($98,000). Proposed NPS regulation changes troubling

A complete listing of the pro- Part 13 and has been “superceded” everal regulation changes posed rule changes may be down- by the similar definition now found Shave been proposed by the loaded at www.regulations.gov . at 43 CFR 36.10(a)(1), and that the National Park Service Enter the search parameters: All deletion is “...a non-substantive ad- (NPS) for NPS units in Alaska to Documents, National Park Service, ministrative correction without reg- update provisions governing subsis- Proposed Rules, Alaska (Keyword), ulatory effect.” tence use of timber, wildlife viewing Submit, then click on the View de- I beg to differ. Residents of the distances, solid waste disposal, off- sired for Docket ID# NPS-2006- Wrangells have pointed out the dis- road vehicle use, and other activi- 0388. A hard copy may be acquired crepancy between the two defini- ties. The agency regularly reviews by contacting NPS at the address tions to NPS several times in the each park’s compendium for the below. past. The definition for adequate purpose of moving rules from an The NPS claims that these new and feasible access proposed for de- individual park’s compendium into proposals are “...a continuation of letion reads “...a reasonable method special regulations within 36CFR13 the rulemaking process begun in and route of pedestrian or vehicular (Title 36 - Parks, Forests, and Public 1980 to implement various provi- transportation which is economical- Property; Chapter 1 - National Park sions required by ANILCA... While ly practicable for achieving the use Service; Part 13 - NPS Units in Alas- the legal and policy issues associat- or development desired by the appli- ka). ed with some parts of ANILCA may cant on his/her non-federal land Unfortunately, they were pub- have been considered novel when occupancy interest, but does not lished December 27, 2006, too late adopted, they have long since lost necessarily mean the least costly to be addressed in the last issue of their novelty. The continuing imple- alternative.” WSEN, and the 60-day comment mentation of ANILCA has become The definition which would re- period ended February 26, 2007, routine...” This constant process main reads “...a route and method before this issue could be distribut- used by NPS to subtly change the of access that is shown to be reason- ed. Residents of the Wrangells meaning of the ANILCA statute by ably necessary and reasonably prac- (ROW) sent out an Alert to their proposing frequent regulation ticable but not necessarily the least membership earlier in the month to changes is alarming. costly alternative for achieving the bring the proposed changes to Definitions - 36 CFR 13.1 use and development by the appli- everyone’s attention. ROW has also The very first proposed change cant...” written a comment letter to NPS is troubling to me. NPS seeks to Note that the remaining defini- regarding the proposal, available delete the definition of the term tion not only omits the reference to soon online at “adequate and feasible access” from pedestrian and vehicular transporta- http://www.rowonline.org . the Part 13 regulations. They claim tion, but states that the route must that the term is not even used in be shown to be reasonably neces- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 11 sary. These are two very important for dead and live timber, in opposi- waste disposal in several Alaskan shifts in thinking about the access tion to paragraph (b). parks. Here in Wrangell - St. Elias, concept which do indeed have sub- NPS refers to regulation 36 CFR “Transfer stations will be allowed stantive administrative and regula- 13.35(a), passed in December of without a permit, on non-federal tory effects. Also, “economically 2004, which states, “The Superin- land within the park area, if it is practicable” was changed to tendent may authorize with or with- determined that it will not degrade “reasonably practicable” and the out conditions the collection of resources. These sites may accept reference to the applicant’s dead standing wood in all or a por- non-NPS solid waste generated with- “desired” use and development was tion of a park area. Collecting dead in the boundaries of the park area.” deleted. or downed wood in violation of Sites may also be located within one Both definitions have existed in terms and conditions is prohibited.” mile of existing facilities; current the regulations for twenty years. In combination, these regulations regulations maintain a one-mile buf- Unfortunately, when NPS regula- present a mixed message and would fer and would only allow collection tions for Alaskan parks were devel- imply that rural residents should of NPS-generated waste. NPS de- oped in 1986, the altered definition now have permits to cut dead wood. fines a transfer station as “...a pub- went on the books. They now wish This section also contains a pro- lic use facility for the deposit and to delete any reference to the origi- vision for temporary closures of por- temporary storage of solid waste, nal ANILCA definition. tions of a park to subsistence uses excluding a facility for the storage Subsistence Use of Timber and of a particular plant population. of a regulated hazardous waste.” Plant Materials - 36 CFR 13.485 Currently, the Superintendent may Comments The existing regulations regard- only make a closure “...if necessary Public comment was only re- ing timber are fairly clear. Para- for reasons of public safety, adminis- ceived by the agency until February graph (a) in this section states that tration, or to assure the continued 26, 2007. If you were unaware of live standing timber with a diameter viability of such population.” The these proposals, are concerned of three inches or less at ground new proposal would add additional about their adoption into regula- height may be cut without a permit. conditions to authorize closures for tion, and would like to request an For live standing timber greater “...resource protection, protection extension of the comment deadline, than three inches, cutting may be of historic or scientific values, con- we encourage you to write to NPS allowed “...in accordance with the servation of endangered or threat- and voice your concerns. Any com- specifications of a permit...” Para- ened species, or (violating) the ment related to this proposal must graph (b) goes on to say “... the purposes for which the park area include the agency name (NPS) and non-commercial gathering of dead was established.” Regulatory Information Number or downed timber for firewood shall Wildlife Distances and Special (1024-AD 38). Comments may be be allowed without a permit in park Restrictions submitted: areas where subsistence uses are Bear viewing distances of 50 1. Email allowed.” and 300 yards are proposed for Ala- [email protected] This important guarantee in gnak Wild River and Denali Park, 2. Mail paragraph (b) is not a section pro- respectively, and provisions were NPS Regional Director Marci posed for change. However, NPS made for the viewing or photogra- Blaszak proposes to delete the reference to phy of, or fishing near most other Alaska Regional Office “live” timber in paragraph (a) (1) to mammals in those areas. Special read regulations in several other individ- 240 West 5th Avenue “For standing timber of diame- ual parks would restrict camping, Anchorage, AK 99501 ter greater than three inches at bicycling, pets, off-road vehicle use, 3. Fax ground height, the Superintendent firearms, commercial transport of (907) 644-3805 may permit cutting in accordance passengers by motor vehicle, and Please be advised that any com- with the specifications of a permit.” snowmachine use. ment, and your identifying informa- This omission of the word “live” im- Solid Waste Disposal tion, will become a matter of public plies that a permit may be required NPS offers to relax certain record. restrictions with respect to solid PAGE 12 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 Hello Team McCarthy!

capacities and in particular my cur- won’t know until the start, but I be- Editor’s Note: The following is a rent small core of dogs since I discov- lieve that we will begin the race with letter from Jeremy to all those inter- ered McCarthy. In this sense, I am all thirteen dogs. I make note of this ested in his progress as he works very experienced, and am also good at because conventional wisdom says it towards the starting line for Iditarod what I do. However, training young is not possible to put 1500 miles on a hearts and minds, and driving them small dog team in four months, in- 35 and beyond! The Kellers write: long distances on limited rest over cluding a 200 mile camping trip, and “We are so proud of the dogs, they days are two very different endeavors. 700 racing miles and still field a have come a long way. And they While the former certainly prepared team. I would like to make it clear to could not have done it without all the us well, there were still some HARD everyone that it was a sound training support from "Team McCarthy" lessons to learn in practice. strategy, Luck and Grace, and YOUR which is anyone who has given sup- As many of you know, I have a SUPPORT that has gotten this band of port in spirit, encouragement and of rather rigid mind-set regarding my walking wounded to the starting line. course in sponsorship. It has been team, best illustrated by our kennel This adventure denied me the overwhelming and we are so grate- name, “Less is More Kennel.” I began complete control I normally require ful. Thank you, thank you, thank the season with 12 dogs, 8 core dogs (!) some time ago and I can point to you.” and 4 I purchased over the past year. numerous contributions from Team Jeremy, his wife Allie and son Marathon, one of my core dogs, was McCarthy and Team Knik that have Bjorn, are McCarthy residents and injured at a critical juncture in the been critical to our survival. I have well-known in our town. This letter training regime and had to be had some high high’s and low low’s was received at the WSEN office on dropped for the season. I have since and quite honestly on a couple of oc- the morning of February 23rd . added 2 more dogs. Because of our casions the thought of disappointing intentionally marginal dog numbers, anyone or everyone is all that kept me Team McCarthy wishes Jeremy each dog is critical. Excessive care marching. So, THANK YOU! Eight a successful finish! has been taken to ensure that each days to go and lots of fun details left! ight days and counting… animal continues to have fun and re- Allie and I can be reached @ 440- Ethought I‘d deliver a brief main in good health. My goal has been 4534/440-7924 beginning Monday update on the season so for this team to increasingly enjoy afternoon and would love help with that everyone has the same lens this adventure with every step as they signage for truck. Also, I will be run- through which to view this madness become stronger, faster, and more ning the dogs every day in town, pull- called IDITAROD. confidant. I am happy to report that ing a 2nd sled and would love x-tra The old adage could not be more we finished the Yukon Quest 300 @ hands/fans around. We look forward accurate. Had I known then what I 11:35 p.m. Alaska standard time to seeing all of you on 4th Ave, even if know now, I certainly would never (12:35 a.m. in the Yukon), Feb 14th only in spirit! have begun. I have been developing with our best run of the year to quali- sled dogs for sixteen years in varying fy in the 12th hour for Iditarod 35! I Online-only subscriptions available

download the file to your comput- not currently getting a “key” to rangell St. Elias er for later viewing, and you can the full version each month by W News subscribers even print out a few pages or the email, just drop us a line at now have a choice of complete issue. [email protected] and we will delivery methods. We have been We also post an html version add you to the mailing list for constantly updating our online which includes 6 or 7 of the main each issue. issues, and now can offer a com- stories of that issue. It loads much If you prefer to get the WSEN plete online version which looks faster than the PDF version for online only, you can save a few just like the print version. It is those of you with a dial-up connec- bucks. Online only subscriptions posted in PDF format, which can tion. are only $11 per year instead of be read with the free Adobe Read- Regular subscribers can access $14 for the print version. Our new er. (Most browsers already have the online version also. If you are renewal notices will offer this op- the reader built-in.) You can tion. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 13 (LaChapelle, continued from page 6) Ed loved electronics. His passion lations a bit better, because instead of first time, and saw the storm clouds for the discipline carried him to the sending the drum into the atmo- lift away and reveal evening sunlight top of his naval radio school. As a sphere the explosion shredded the on Mt. Rainier... I can still remember teenager, he graduated first in his steel sending shrapnel flying every- to this day as clear and simple as the class ahead of over two hundred men where. It was a miracle that no one note of a bell this was the single big- of all ages and experience. He joined was hurt. gest turning point in my life, when in the Pacific Fleet right at the close of I was at the receiving end of one a single blinding moment I knew what World War II. (My father said that one of his pranks while I was with him on I must do and where I must live with of the most impressive sights of his the glacier. I must have been nine or my life.” life was seeing the American naval ten and was reading the “Nearing” power arrayed in Tokyo Bay for the The conviction of my father’s books by C.S.Lewis. The books were signing of the armistice.) His skill in mountain-born insight lasted him un- populated by dragons and the such electronics served him well in develop- til the final morning of his life. His and I was enjoying the fantasy of ing the various instruments for his contributions to snow and avalanche imagining such creatures in a distant science. It also helped launch the first science, his practical ability to trans- place and land. portable avalanche beacon, (now a late ideas into usable actions, his or- main necessity of back-country skiers My father decided to bring them ganization of glacier projects and the world-wide). closer to home. contribution he made to glaciology in general, the mentoring of a whole Yesterday, as I poured through He had one of the men who generation of avalanche experts, the the various items he brought on his worked for him on the project dress numerous rescues he oversaw, the last ski journey I found his shortwave up in a parachute camouflage with a books he wrote and the spirit of inqui- radio. The current version is a small, cardboard dragon’s head and hide in ry which was so alive in him all pivot handheld device that is dwarfed by the the small rock crevice above the re- around that moment on the flanks of radios I remember from my child- search station. The man also carried a Mount Rainier. My father’s destiny hood. But the fact that it was includ- fire extinguisher. carried him surely through the great ed in his orderly set of clothes and I was led up the crevice on some war and the incredible growth of the tools for his fateful road trip testifies pretext I do not remember. As I ski industry in the last sixty years. to the deep love he had of listening to climbed down into the crevice I heard the echoes of humanity across the This conviction was honed by the a bellow, saw rolling carbon dioxide electromagnetic spectrum. bodily condition he had overcome. My smoke clouds coming towards me, father’s capacity for hard work, disci- Ed also loved good practical and the dim shape of a dragon be- pline, organization and thoroughness jokes. He tempered the rigor of his hind. I was literally ejected from that was deep. Whatever he turned his at- science and the discipline of his work crevice by the adrenaline that ran tention towards he would master. He with various schemes and mischief through me. sewed his own backpack, building the events. As a teenager he and a partner I have my father’s skis, boots and aluminum frame himself. He made his developed something called “power poles now. Several days ago I put own sleeping bag, created a whole pills” which were small bombs made them on and skied a few runs in his pantheon of instruments for his differ- of gelatin capsules and bb’s mixed honor. It was not powder, but the ent experiments, created a unique with a propriety blend of now illegal memory of powder lives in his skis and snow crystal photo lab and mastered explosive substance. He took great in my legs. The steady strength of my calligraphy, photography, woodwork- delight in setting these incendiary father’s being carried me down the ing and financial management. After devices off in a variety of locations. slopes. I can no longer turn to him for he “retired” from teaching and work- His pranks with the power pills earned help with my Alaskan cabin, or any of ing for others, he created, with his him a visit from the Tacoma police. the other myriad ways he expressed partner Margaret Hunt, a self suffi- While directing the Blue Glacier his love for me in the small details he cient Alaskan home. For years I have project, a multi-year research station tended, but I can ski again in the high been proud to say that my father is on Mount Olympus in Washington mountains marveling that this man the only one of my extended circle state, he decided to try his hand at a gave me, and so many others, a way of who lives completely off the grid. bit more dramatic explosive activity. the mountain. Ed’s sister, my Aunt Lou, remem- You probably have heard of or seen Thank you, my dear father, for bers my father coming down from his young boys putting a fire cracker un- the integrity of your life. room when he was a teen announcing der a tin can and using the explosion Your turns are true now, no lon- that Pearl Harbor had been bombed. to send the can as a rocket into space. ger limited by an aging body. The fall My father heard the news on his own My father went them one step better. line is clean and the crystals are eter- shortwave radio. His family was the He put a stick of dynamite under a nal that slip under your skis as you first in the neighborhood to know used 55-gallon fuel barrel on the gla- descend the mountains of light that that the world, as they knew it, had cier to see if he could send it into live within us all. just changed forever. space. He should have done his calcu- PAGE 14 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 Ed LaChapelle —1926-2007

cCarthy resident and the Forest Service, becoming head of ton, retiring in 1982 as Professor Mrenowned avalanche the Avalanche Center, and in the sum- Emeritus of Geophysics and Atmo- pioneer, Ed LaChapelle, mer, he did glacier research in places spheric Sciences. Between 1973 and 80, passed away on Thursday, Febru- such as Greenland and Alaska. 1977, Ed was also involved in ava- ary 1st, 2007, in Salida, CO, after a While in Alta, Ed became a part lanche studies at the Institute for Arc- morning of skiing powder at Mon- of the pioneering crew of Forest Ser- tic and Alpine Research of the arch Pass. According to long-time vice snow rangers who laid the basic University of Colorado at Boulder, partner Meg Hunt, the elevation and groundwork for avalanche control pro- spending winters at Silverton in the exertion finally got to his aging grams at ski areas and for highway San Juan mountains. heart. departments. As well, he authored The In his later years, Ed, with Meg at ABCs of Avalanche Safety, a pocket- his side, retired to McCarthy where Ed was born on May 31, 1926, in size, how-to manual that has for de- they purchased a one-room log cabin. Tacoma, Washington, where he was cades been a mandatory text for win- Over time they developed a self-suffi- raised. ter backcountry travelers. cient home, “off the grid.” Ed became After two years in the U. S. Navy, The “Avalanche Hunters,” as the deeply involved in community affairs he entered the University of Puget Alta snow rangers were dubbed, re- and well-known among residents and Sound, graduating in 1949 in physics fined the used of explosives for ava- even visitors to the area. He leaves a and mathematics. As a student, he lanche control work which included a great void in the small town of McCa- learned to ski and make climbing variety of exciting field experiments. rthy which he called home. trips to the Canadian Rockies. His Ed’s death came just over a week career as a snow scientist, began at Ed was also involved in the devel- after that of his former wife, Dolores the Swiss Federal Institute for Snow opment of the avalanche transceiver LaChapelle, who died of a stroke in and Avalanche Research as a guest —a radio transmitter used as a loca- Durango, Colorado. He is survived by worker in the winter of 1950-1951. He tor for buried avalanche victims — one son, David LaChapelle, and a sis- served as a U.S. Forest Service snow now regarded as an essential piece of ter, MLou Doyle. ranger at Alta, Utah, from 1952 to equipment for all ski mountaineers. 1972, his work varying according to In 1967, he was appointed to the A memorial service is planned for the seasons. In winter he worked for faculty of the University of Washing- May 31st in McCarthy. The details are yet to be decided. Lance Gilpatrick —1954 - 2007

ance Michael Gilpatrick, In 1982, he moved to Alaska to With two successful careers under L53, of Valdez passed away chase his dream of a better life. That his belt, and keeping with his entre- Tuesday, February 6, dream began when he met and mar- preneurial spirit, Lance decided to 2007. ried shortly thereafter his wife, Sue. build The Gilpatrick’s Hotel Chitina He was born in Framingham, Mas- Lance worked as a hard-rock min- in an old copper mining/railroad town similar to the one in Montana where sachusetts, on February 1st 1954, to er in Palmer at Hatcher Pass. He be- Milo and Harriet (East) Gilpatrick. came interested in oil spill recovery, he grew up. The hotel successfully Lance is survived by his wife, Sue, and true to his nature, became one of opened for business in May 2006. Ac- daughter Ann and son, Ian, all of Val- the first experts in a field and at a cording to Trevor Fishlock, a recent dez. He is also survived by his mother, time when there were no experts. His British visitor to Chitina, Lance was Harriet Ryan of Philipsburg, Montana; skills were soon tapped by Alyeska, smitten the moment he saw it: “From brother John Ryan of Missoula; sister when, in 1989, the Exxon Valdez ran my boyhood in Montana I dreamed of Jennifer Ryan of Stevensville; and sis- aground. Lance headed up part of the running a frontier hotel.” Seeing the ter Janna McMillan of Stamford, Ne- recovery efforts and assisted in laying Old West facade of the Hotel Chitina, braska. groundwork for new response proto- he knew he had to buy and restore it. Lance will be remembered by his cols. His spirit will live on in the many family and friends as a doer, a self- In 1991, he and his family set up lives he has touched throughout the made man —someone you could al- shop as Gilpatrick’s Greenhouse, a years. Lance, we will miss you. You are ways count on —one who enjoyed successful commercial venture, which light and inspiration for us all. making others laugh and smile with still brings beautiful color every sum- Memorial services were held in his quick wit and sense of humor. mer to the Valdez area and outlying Philipsburg on Saturday, February communities in the Copper River Ba- 10th and in Chitina on February 18th. sin. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 15 The world (way) around us

in and begin to understand the who gives breath to the people on inter in interior Alaska magnitude of such a distance. Al- it, and spirit to those who walk on W can be challenging to though a light year is an almost in- it.” Makes a person want to listen to deal with. Cold tem- conceivable distance, it’s like a what He has to say! peratures, long nights with limited millimeter of God’s “discretion of Often, when blessed with a cold, daylight hours, and increased stretching out the heavens.” clear, winter night view of this tap- chores are enough to chase most of With the launching of the Hub- estry of God’s immensity and mag- our residents off to warmer cli- ble satellite telescope, came the nificence, I try to fathom how the mates. most magnificent views ever of our same God that made all of this, can In spite of challenges, may of us galaxy and universe. Located out- concern Himself with the affairs of enjoy the winter season with its side the earth’s atmosphere, this man. Loving this created being, slower pace, providing more time to telescope has allowed us to view the while we were still enemies of God, nurture relationships with family, deepest regions of space in uncom- even denying His very existence, He friends and our Creator. promised clarity. What we have seen loved us so much that in order to The long, dark nights give an is a vast frontier of infinite wonder, reconcile our relationship to Him, opportunity to view the glory of the a celestial masterpiece. He gave Himself in Jesus Christ as a heavens like no other place I’ve Let’s take a light speed tour of living sacrifice for all whom will be- been. Free from artificial light inter- our known universe to see how big lieve. ference and air pollutants, the win- God’s discretion really is. If we were “When I consider your heavens, ter sky comes alive with a serenade to head towards the nearest star the work of your fingers, the moon of lights. The view truly declares the outside our solar system, Proxima and the stars which you have set in glory of God. Jeremiah 10:12 says, Centauri, it would take us over four place, what is man that you are “He [God] has made the earth by years to arrive, traveling at 186,000 mindful of him...” Psalm 8: 3 & 4. His power, He has established the miles per second! If we were to trav- References: world by His wisdom, and has el all the way across the Milky Way, Henry, Dr. Jonathan, 1999. The stretched out the heavens at His our home galaxy, it would take us Astronomy Book, Master Books, discretion.” Let’s take a look at the 100,000 years, and pass by 200 bil- Green Forest, AR. lion stars, and, we’ve barely left awesomeness of His “discretion.” Richards, Jay and Gonzalez, home! The closest galaxy beyond Units of distance measurement Guillermo 2004, The Privileged ours, Andromeda, would take us 2 used on earth are inadequate out- Planet. DVD. Illustra Media. million years to travel to. Although side our solar system, leading as- www.illustramedia.com these close neighbors are already tronomers to come up with a Moody Publishers, Journeys to large-scale distance measurement, past the inconceivable mark, I’ve got to keep boasting of our Lord. the Edge of Creation, 1996. DVD. the “light year.” Although it sounds Chicago, IL. Consider current estimates, in like a measurement of time, it actu- www.moodypublishers.com ally represents the distance light our observable universe, of 100 bil- If this wets your appetite for travels over the course of 365 days. lion galaxies containing an average more, here are a few highly recom- A light year is approximately 6 tril- of 100 billion stars in each one. The mended resources: lion miles, and, traveling at the total size of the observable universe, speed of light, puts you at 186,000 although highly uncertain, has been Book: The Privileged Planet by miles per second. At this speed you as high as 20 billion light years Guillermo Gonzalez and Jay Rich- could circumnavigate the earth in across. Wow, meditate on that for ards. less than one second. A trip to the awhile. DVD: The Privileged Planet. Il- moon would only take 1.3 seconds. I think back to Isaiah 42:5: lustra Media. If you had the time to spare, you “Thus sayeth God the Lord who cre- www.illustramedia.com could travel to the sun, 100 million ated the heavens and stretched Journeys to the Edge of Cre- miles away in a little over eight min- them out, who spread forth the ation, Moody Publishers. utes. It takes awhile to let that soak earth and that which comes from it, www.moodypublishers.com PAGE 16 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 THE CHITINA LEADER March 1915 April

OF GENERAL INFORMATION He is sluicing with drain water un- Since my last letter, Mr. Finkel- Cordova, February 24 —A. B. der cover in his tunnel. stein, of Cordova, has opened a Iles will be a passenger on the train Old miners are unanimous that gentlemen’s furnishing goods store tomorrow for Strelna. He will make we have had the best winter ever here, in the Pete Johnson building. a visit to the mines on Nugget known in the interior. It has been He is enjoying a good trade and with Creek of the Alaska Copper Corpo- clear and pleasant most of the time his pleasant, genial manner, has ration. Mr. Iles returned yesterday with hardly any snow. And there has quickly made a place for himself in from Valdez. He has been furnishing been no extreme cold, as 10 below our midst. the electric power to a company of was the coldest. W. R. Faddis, who has been op- local business men, who supply the March 9 erating a restaurant in McCarthy town and the people at a low price. OF GENERAL INFORMATION has put in a line of fine groceries He states that his company and the and seems to be doing a nice busi- J. E. Laurie, formerly with Fin- allied company have been merged ness. kelstein & Sapiro, who went outside into one corporation. The old com- a month or so ago, returned on the The Hotel Golden has closed its pany is still in existence and is fur- Alameda, and is en route to McCa- doors. Having been refused a liquor nishing light for 2 cents per rthy, taking in a stock of men’s license for the ensuing year, it was kilowatt. furnishings and clothing. Jack decided to close the hotel and go The other day three mushers thinks McCarthy looks good to him out of business, thus leaving McCa- reached Fairbanks from the Out- and has arranged to open a store rthy with one saloon. side, in record time. The News-Min- there. Mr. Royal’s family has moved to er says that the total time from McCarthy, March 20 —Finally Kennecott, where Mr. Royal is em- Seattle via Cordova, amounted to McCarthy is to have a school. After ployed. They will be greatly missed only 16 days, which is covering the many ineffectual attempts, commit- from our midst, where Mrs. Royal water and the ground pretty fast for tee after committee appointments, has always been active in church this season of the year. Especially is T. T. Lane studied the situation over and social work. No longer will we this true when it is considered that and suggested to the government hear Charley driving his dog team the men mushed from Chitina to officials during their recent trip and Scotty’s barking response. Fairbanks, a distance of 306 ½ here an outline of the result of his March 23 miles over the big trail in ten days. investigation. The plan looked feasi- OF GENERAL INFORMATION This is over 30 miles a day. The men ble to them and they instructed report that there is a good firm James J. Godfrey and wife were that an effort be made along the foundation to the snow and the arrivals on yesterday’s train from line as outlined by Mr. Lane. A mushing good in most places. All the interior, having been on the meeting was called and another three are old Northerners, which property of the Mother Lode Cop- committee appointed to confer amounts for much, in the rapidity per Mines Company for several with the directors of the Kennecott with which they traveled. George months past. They took the steamer district. The plan met with their Blondo returns after a long ab- this morning for Valdez and will approval and Mr. Seagrave, manag- sence, while the Carpenter Brothers return and go outside on the same er of the Kennecott Mines Co., as- have been in Fairbanks before. steamer. Mr. Godfrey is president of sisted them in every possible way, the Mother Lode Company and will March 2 with the result that we are to have a go at once to New York on impor- OF GENERAL INFORMATION school. An election of school board tant business. During the past win- Good progress is being made in has been ordered for April 6th, next. ter considerable high grade copper moving the supplies for Howard Every one feels that all credit is due ore has been shipped to the Tacoma Birch from McCarthy to Dan Creek Mr. Lane, whose efforts resulted in smelter. But the breaking up of the where there will be extensive work securing the school and in a great trails has prevented any further this season. measure to Mr. Seagrave for the shipments until next winter, as the Cayuette, on the Dan Creek kindly interest he took in our behalf. ore has to be hauled by teams for 12 benches, is taking out good money. miles from the tramway to the rail- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 17 way at McCarthy. The break-up Railway announced the personnel of proven a fatal accident occurred came three weeks earlier this year the several trains crews for the sum- just this side of Chitina at the saw than heretofore, the last shipment mer as follows: Main line local: O. L. mill which is operated by the Nelson being a car-load that was sent south Larson, conductor; K. G. Robinson brothers. Max Nelson was working on the last steamer. Mr. Godfrey and W. C. Sutton, brakemen; J. W. in the mill just underneath the saw left 30 men at work at the mines Fillinger, engineer; Ed Walsh, fire- when he struck his head with such and they will be engaged in clocking man. Brank local: L. L. Butler, con- force against a piece of machinery out and getting ore ready for ship- ductor; John Nicolet and Carl as to almost cause a fracture of the ment next winter. They have uncov- Johnson, brakemen; J. R. Reed, en- skull. He was taken to his home and ered large bodies of the high-grade gineer; Arthur Holt, fireman. Pile Dr. Council was wired for. He left in ore that it is expected will place the driver: Wm. Hayes, conductor; Wm. the evening on a speeder and today Mother Lode on a par with the Bo- McFadden and Floyd Smith, brake- reports that his patient is resting nanza and other great copper men; Henry Lee, engineer; Jack easy and will likely recover unless mines. Courtney, fireman. Ditcher: George he takes a turn for the worse within Cordova, April 9—The steam Scott, conductor; Kenneth Holden the next couple of days. The Dr. will freighter Edith arrived this morning and Geo. Steel, brakemen; George return on the train tomorrow after- about 11 o’clock bringing a cargo Buchanan, engineer; August Thiel, noon. of lumber and explosives, divided as fireman. Chittitu, April 2 —The mining follows: C. R. & N. W. Ry. Co., Cordova, April 16 —Some little season is nearly a month earlier 51,000 feet; Kennecott Mines, trouble was caused at the Chitina than usual. The snow has practically 119,000 feet; Arctic Lumber Co., crossing this morning by a slight all disappeared, leaving the ice bare 100,000 feet. Fifty thousand feet of movement of the ice. It was not on the creeks, which in places is the latter consignment will be enough to cause any delay in the falling in. If no cold weather comes shipped to Chitina, having been running of trains. As the open sea- shortly Andrus’ men will be packing sold to the U. S. government to son has started at least two weeks powder all summer. Erve Harring build the warehouse for the Alaska earlier than usual this year it is has most of the Andrus summer Road Commission at that interior expected that the run of ice within supplies across the May Creek bar. town. a few days will do the usual damage Geo. Max Esterley’s men are Will Clayson took E. R. Peoples to the wooden bridge crossing the putting in a telephone line from his of Fairbanks, out in his launch to- Copper River at Chitina. Last year lower camp to the Clarkin road- day, so that he might see the Cop- the run started in earnest on May house. They may also continue with per River flats and also how well an 5th. The earliest time for the ice to it to McCarthy, as this would be a Evinrude motor works in these wa- start was on April 24th one year. great convenience to the people in ters. Late this afternoon it was re- this section, and would save many a April 13 ported that more bents had gone trip across the treacherous Nizina OF GENERAL INFORMATION out on the Chitina bridge. It has not river during the summer. Oscar Breedman came in on the been determined whether repairs G. Howard Birch brought in a train yesterday from McCarthy. He can be made or whether it will be large supply of wire and he expects states that on Friday’s train he will better to now wait until the ice floes to string it 9 miles across to the receive six of his packing horses and have done their full damage before Mother Lode property, which will that on the steamer Evans next making the structure safe and per- likely connect with McCarthy and week he will go with them to Ship manent again. In the meantime no Kennecott so that Birch will have Creek. He believes that he will be freight will be accepted for points through telephone connection. able to inaugurate a teaming and beyond Chitina. packing business at the new rail- Cordova, April 17 —It is report- Haar and Santien are building a road port. He states that Finkel- ed that Capt. Lathrop is to extend new cabin on No. 11. stein & Sapiro are selling out their his operations in the moving pic- store at McCarthy and that after the ture line. In addition to his movies There will be more mining here 25th Mr. Finkelstein will return to at Cordova he will start up at this summer than in the early days, Cordova and then go to Ship Creek, Seward and Valdez, and possibly as more pay is being found every few with the idea of engaging in busi- open a house at Knik and Ship days on the benches. It is not expect- ness there. Creek. ed that there will be any shortage of Cordova, April 15 —Yesterday Cordova, April 19 —Late Satur- labor this summer. day afternoon what might have the Copper River & Northwestern April 20 PAGE 18 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 Temperature inversions go to extremes

ydrologist Ed Plumb of Plumb’s colleague Ron Stuvek tain. Within two days, the tempera- Hthe National Weather drove the Elliott Highway the day ture at Denali Pass had dropped to a Service in Fairbanks was after Plumb. Stuvek saw an even more seasonable minus 36 degrees. out measuring ice thickness on the greater temperature spread, from The reason for this warm air Chatanika River last week. On his 40 above at Wickersham Dome to 8 aloft was the “pineapple express,” drive to a valley north of Fairbanks, below at the Chatanika River. the south-to-north flow of air that he kept his eye on an outdoor ther- “That’s 50 degrees of change brought warm air from around Ha- mometer attached to the truck. within the inhabited elevations of waii northward to Alaska, Stevens As he crested Cleary Summit, the Interior,” said Eric Stevens, who said. That airflow also causes chi- the thermometer read 44 degrees was working in the National Weath- nook winds in Interior Alaska to fur- Fahrenheit. He watched the temper- er Service office in Fairbanks that ther amplify the warming. A big ature drop as he descended toward day. “You don’t see stronger inver- low-pressure system sitting south of Chatanika Lodge, where the ther- sions than that.” the Aleutians drove the pineapple mometer read minus 2 degrees. On the same day meteorologists express, making for warm tempera- That temperature difference, caused noticed that a weather balloon tures throughout much of Alaska. by an extreme temperature inver- launched from Fairbanks Interna- Fairbanks temperature inver- sion, occurred over a distance of tional Airport recorded at tempera- sions are so consistent that meteo- about seven miles when Plumb ture of 12 degrees Celsius (about 54 rologist Rick Thoman, also of the dropped from a height of about degrees Fahrenheit) at about 5,000 Fairbanks office of the National 2,200 feet on the hilltop to 713 feet feet. Weather Service, once calculated at the valley bottom. “That would be warm even for how much firewood he saved by liv- Temperature inversions — summer,” said Stevens, who was ing in the hills west of town. where air temperature increases working in the office that day. “Not He lives at about 1,600 feet ele- with elevation — happen in calm, only was that a record for the last vation, and he compared his average windless places such as Interior day of January, but this is the warm- temperatures with those of a Weath- Alaska. With no wind to mix the at- est temperature measured at 5,000 er Service observer who lived at 590 mosphere, not much sunlight to feet for the six months of November feet. In one winter, his home aver- heat the surface and a snow-covered through April since weather bal- aged 16 degrees warmer than the surface that reflects sunlight, cold loons began being launched in Fair- low site. Thoman figured that, air tends to pool in low places and banks in 1948.” thanks to Fairbanks’ persistent tem- stay there. Fairbanks often has tem- It was a warm day up higher, perature inversion, he burned 20 perature inversions — that’s what too. The weather station at 18,733 percent less wood by living up high. makes car thermometers so much feet on Denali, maintained by Tohru This column is provided as a fun here — but the ones on the last Saito of the International Arctic public service by the Geophysical two days of January 2007 were ex- Research Center and mountaineers Institute, University of Alaska Fair- ceptional. of the Japan Alpine Club, recorded banks, in cooperation with the UAF “Temperature inversions are not a temperature of minus 2 degrees F research community. Ned Rozell is a that unusual, but to have a 45-to-50 that day. Two degrees below zero is science writer at the institute. degree temperature inversion, a typical temperature for a nice that’s pretty extreme,” Plumb said. summer day up there on the moun- Premiere Screening of Ahtna Heritage Film

Ahtna Tradition -- Potlatches. tional Park Service Theater to en- rangell-St. Elias Na- Produced by the Ahtna Heritage joy this new production. Light W tional Park & Pre- Foundation, this 20-minute film refreshments will be provided. serve and the Ahtna explores the rich history and tradi- For more information, please Heritage Foundation are proud to tions of the Ahtna Potlatch. contact Smitty Parratt at 822- announce the premiere screening Join us at 12:00 noon on 7223. of a recently completed film, An Wednesday, March 7th in the Na- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 19 Wells Fargo Donates $1.6 million to Alaska Nonprofits in 2006

program, and they give their time, Greater Fairbanks Chamber of n 2006, Wells Fargo contrib- energy and financial expertise as Commerce Iuted $1.6 million in cash to community board members and vol- Habitat for Humanity-Fairbanks schools and nonprofit orga- unteers for local nonprofit organiza- University of Alaska Fairbanks nizations throughout Alaska. More tions.” Museum of the North (Military Ap- than 200 organizations received Major funding of $50,000 or preciation Days) funding to serve the needs of local more was provided to the following Wells Fargo was named communities in the areas of social Alaska nonprofits in 2006: Anchor- “Outstanding Corporation in Phi- services, youth and education, arts age Museum Association for expan- lanthropy” for 2005 by the Associa- and culture, civic events and eco- sion project, University of Alaska tion of Fundraising Professionals, nomic development. Education is Fairbanks Rural Alaska Honors Insti- Alaska Chapter for its “exceptional Wells Fargo’s top funding priority, tute, University of Alaska Anchor- civic leadership and responsibility representing more than 40% of the age-Alaska Native Science and by providing financial support and financial services company’s contri- Engineering Program, Alaska Pacific leadership to the nonprofit sector.” butions. University (Rural Alaska Native Nationally, Wells Fargo’s total Adult Distance Education program), In addition, Alaska team mem- financial contributions reached United Way and the Providence bers volunteered more than 4,200 $100 million for the first time with Alaska Foundation for a new cancer hours of their time to nonprofit or- $102.7 million donated to 14,000 center. ganizations in 2006. nonprofits—up almost eight per- “Well Fargo is pleased to sup- Interior Alaska organizations cent from 2005 and up 87 percent port Alaskan communities by giving that received substantial charitable since the 1998 Norwest/Wells Fargo back financially and as active com- contributions from Wells Fargo in merger. Forbes magazine ranked munity partners and leaders,” said 2006 are: Wells Fargo the fifth-most generous Richard Strutz, Wells Fargo regional Ahtna Heritage Foundation corporate foundation, and Wells president for Alaska. “These chari- Copper River Emergency Medi- Fargo received an “Excellence in table contributions are just one as- cal Services Council Workplace Volunteer Programs” pect of our community support Doyon Foundation award from the Points of Light efforts in Alaska. Our team mem- Fairbanks Concert Association Foundation in 2006. bers teach financial education through our Hands on Banking® Wire in a tree

I found that the log was about bulge around it. By the size of the y uncle gave me a 97 years old. The wire was put on wire I guessed it may have been an Mspruce log that had a the tree 77 years ago. old trapping set. wire in it. I thought I I have seen historic pictures of Editor’s note: Kaylin, age 10, is would count the rings on the log to this area and there were hardly no a resident of McCarthy. He lives find out how old the tree and wire trees. The dates of the pictures with his parents, Betty and Lane, on are. match with the dates I counted on their property just west of the Kenni- A tree forms a layer of wood ev- the tree. cott River. He is enrolled in the ery year. In the spring new cells My dad split the log open so I Chugach School District’s Extension form under the bark. In the winter could examine the wire. I found out School. His classroom is his home growth stops until a new year. This that the wire went all around the and, as you can see, the great out- makes a layer or ring. tree. The wire made the tree grow a doors in the Wrangell Mountains.

CLASSIFIED WATER WELL??? Looking to put together a list of folks interested in having a well drilled next summer, in order to entice a driller to make the trip. Must have road access for a sizeable rig. Contact Todd Bureau @ 907- 782-3730 or [email protected] PAGE 20 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 Valdez Museum develops native Alaskan exhibits

beginning with the Pratt Museum's bers Diane Selanoff and Margo lans are well underway for The Hunter and the Hunted, sched- Small to discuss the content of the Pthe new Valdez Museum uled for May through December gallery and plan for its opening to Native Heritage Gallery, 2007. Museum curator Andrew the public. The ribbon-cutting to part of the museum’s long-antici- Goldstein states, “The gallery gives dedicate the gallery will take place pated Revitalization project. This us a chance to talk about the differ- at the museum in the early fall of will be a brand new gallery space ent cultural groups who have lived 2007, following completion of the within the main museum that will in our area over the years, and their museum's Revitalization project. be dedicated to educating about the historical contributions to Valdez To improve its collection of Na- culture and history of the Native from prehistory up to the present tive Alaskan materials, the museum Alaskans of Prince William Sound day. It's a great opportunity for us is asking the general public for do- and the Copper River Basin. to fill in an important part of the nations and loans of artifacts, pho- The gallery space addresses a town's story by showing that Natives tographs, and documents. Mr. need for the museum to tell a more have been a continued presence Goldstein says, “We’re looking for complete story about Native Alaskan here and still maintain their culture things like family photographs, film cultures. Planning for the gallery here today.” Although the exhibits and video, oral histories, photos of began in 2004, when the Exxon Val- will focus on local Native groups, events and gatherings — we need dez Oil Spill Trustee Council an- interpretation will also discuss mid-20th century materials in partic- nounced the availability of funding shared cultural traditions and issues ular. We’re also looking for tradi- for local display facilities housing such as civil rights and ANCSA that tional Native Alaskan clothing and traveling exhibits developed and affect all Alaskan Natives. The mu- tools, and modern art that builds on managed by the Chugach Museum seum plans to complement its exhi- Native Alaskan traditions.” Gold- and Institute of History and Art, bitions through educational stein adds, “We needn't keep the which maintains an archaeological outreach programs and public pro- original artifacts — we’re happy to repository in Seward. In addition to gramming. make copies of photographs, or ac- serving Valdez, the repository will Museum staff began the plan- cept replica items.” If you have ob- make exhibits and artifacts available ning process by evaluating the jects, photographs or documents to display facilities in Cordova, Tati- museum’s current Native collection, that you would like to donate or tlek, Chenega, Seward, Port Gra- consulting with other museums, and lend to the museum’s collection, ham, Seldovia and Nanwalek. looking at new casework for the dis- please call Andrew Goldstein, Cura- The gallery will exhibit the play of its collection. On January tor of Collections and Exhibits, at museum’s own collection of Native 11, museum staff met with cultural (907) 835-2764. artifacts plus traveling exhibitions, consultants and community mem- Wrangell-St. Elias student scholarship program offers $500 scholarship

based career (preferable, but not Wrangell-St. Elias Employee Asso- ho Can Apply: required) related to resource ciation, P. O. Box 439, Copper W Graduating high stewardship. Applicants need Center, AK 99573 (must be re- school seniors from not be related to National Park ceived by March 30). See your Copper River, Gateway, or Yaku- Service employees. High School Guidance Counselor, tat School Districts continuing How to Apply: In person at call 822-5234 for an application, their education in pursuit of a Slana or Park Headquarters in or check on the website at public service and resource- Copper Center, or mail to www.nps.gov/wrst/scholarship.htm. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 21

WRANGELL MOUNTAIN stress-free holiday TECHNICAL SERVICES Shopping Providing Civil Engineering and This season, get fabulous gifts for everyone on Land Survey Services your list...all from the comfort of your home. Just call me or visit my Web site. You’ll find pampering products, fragrances and more at your convenience! Serving the Copper Basin and throughout Alaska Tammy Rowland Independent Beauty Consultant www.marykay.com/trowland1 On-Site Water and Wastewater Designs (907) 581-5881 Engineering Consultation Residential Home Inspections Construction Inspection and Management "OUR LIVES BEGIN TO END As-built Surveys, Boundary Surveys, Sub- THE DAY WE REMAIN divisions, Construction Surveys SILENT ON THINGS ALLEN MINISH, PE PLS THAT MATTER." Mile 32.1 Edgerton Hwy P. O. Box 118, Chitina, AK 99566 —Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. 907-823-2280 MOTHER LODE COPPER MINES COMPANY OF ALASKA LLC 201 Barrow Street #1 • Anchorage, AK 99501

We at Copper Valley Wireless wish you all a healthy, happy & safe 2007! PAGE 22 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 Scheduled Air Service from Anchorage to McCarthy with stopover in Gulkana!

Now you can leave Anchorage at 8:30 on Wednesday or Friday morning and arrive in Gulkana at 9:45, McCarthy at 11:00. Or, you can leave McCarthy at 11:15 and be back in Anchorage by 2:00pm the same day! (Leaves Gulkana at 12:45) This service is year around.

http://www.ellisair.com

Ellis Air Taxi, Inc. RESPONSIBILITY FOR DEPARTURES, ARRIVALS, CONNECTIONS. Ellis Air will not be responsible for damages resulting from the failure of flights to depart Phone 822-3368 or arrive at times stated in this timetable, nor for errors herein, nor for failure to make connections to other airlines or of this company. Schedules are subject to change without notice. Schedules 800-478-3368 shown are based on expected flying times. Because weather and other factors may affect operat- ing conditions, departures and arrivals cannot be guaranteed. Gulkana Airfield Box 106, Glennallen, AK 99588

HOMESTEAD SUPPLY

Lumber, building materials and hardware delivered to the McCarthy area at Anchorage prices! Give us a call or come in and browse our new ACE Hardware store. NEW! Greenhouse and potting supplies!

1-800-478-3987 or FAX 822-5209

Mile 115.5 Richardson Highway (Box 49) Glennallen WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 23

Used tires Flats fixed Brake repair Auto repair Oil changes Takes in used oil for Fire Dept. Lock Outs Towing available - Fully insured and bonded ü Pickup service for cars that need to go to Anchorage

Located behind Chitina Trading Post - look for the radio antennas and towers 823-2251 Fax: 823-2291 PO Box 53, Chitina, Alaska 99566 DAN’S TIRE AND AUTO REPAIR

Home of the Happy Hooker Two PAGE 24 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007

The New

Getting tired? Stop at the Caribou Hotel! The coffee pot’s always on!

Warm atmosphere — Hot Tubs — Satellite TV Full Menu Restaurant

Mile 187 Glenn Hwy. 822-3302 Glennallen, AK

Service Oil & Gas RESIDENTIAL COMMERCIAL Service sometimes Heating oil means going more than Gasoline and Diesel Fuel the extra mile. "We appreciate all our AvGas and Jet Fuel BUSH CUSTOMERS" Chevron Lube Oils and Greases Fuel Tanks and Accessories For the First Name In Service, Call SERVICE OIL & GAS

PHONE:822-3375 Mile 188.5 Glenn Highway Chevron Box 276 Glennallen, AK 99588 (Sheep Hunt - continued from page 7) WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 25 had brought his sleep- enough to the hunters so they could ing bag along. That hear him shout. Harley yelled that fall night I had to try there was an easy access down to and sleep without a their animals. The hunters turned and bag. Man, what a frigid walked away from him. We reported experience! In the this after arriving back in Cordova. morning, Howard The Cordova Times used the event came as scheduled, “Wanton Sheep Slaughter” as their and my companion lead story. I still have a copy of that jumped in the Super newspaper. Later that fall Bilderback Cub with him and left. was in Fairbanks for a guide confer- I headed back up the ence. While visiting a gift shop there mountain. Gill wasn’t he was discussing sheep hunting with very pleased over our the proprietor. Bilderback suddenly fellow hunter leaving; realized that this was one of those Photo courtesy the author he got so mad I guys in on the slaughter. Base Camp—Ed Bilderback is standing in the middle thought he was going of the lean-to. Bilderback guided Fred Bear, the legacy At May Creek, sheep hunters were to go nuts. When he gathering awaiting the departure of name in the archery business, for the largest recorded finally calmed down the DC-3, which was already at the Kodiak Brown Bear taken by bow and arrow. he said, “Well, at least airport. However, as customary, the Kenny got the bread crew of the DC-3 was overnighting in out, too, in fact, in the evening he and stuff.” But, I had forgotten to McCarthy, 17 road miles to the north- would be fleshing out the hooves bring it back up. So the tirade started west and hadn’t arrived yet. So, we around the campfire, which was all over again. had plenty of time to share tales of quite a trick. In defense of the hunter who fled, our recent hunting venture. Melvin Gill brought lots of cheesecloth and what we didn’t know then, was “Peanuts” Soder from Cordova came and boxes of black pepper. We would that the utility company he had been rushing over just as soon as we spread the meat out all around and managing in Cordova for over twenty reached May Creek to share with us a cover it with the cheesecloth, then years had just changed hands. He had story of his hunt. His partner was fair- pepper it to keep the blowflies off. We really stretched things by coming on ly new to hunting. Peanuts was as used lean-tos at the camps, not tents. the hunt in the first place, as his new close to being a long-time hunter as One night at base camp, toward the boss was going to be in town. Gill was. His partner had shot a ram end of the hunt, there were only three One sad thing happened. Toward but it was late evening when Peanuts of us left and we had meat spread ev- the end of the hunt we spotted the finally located the partner and the erywhere. In the middle of the night arrival of three or four other hunters ram. By that time it was very dark and Gill heard rain. He got us up and we on a far ridge. They shot five sheep, they were still high on a mountain. frantically moved all the meat into but didn’t even make the effort to The partner had been dragging the and under the lean-to with us. salvage the meat, or horns. At first we ram down a ridge. Peanuts pitched in. After a few hours of struggle and About a week into the hunt Gill thought that they didn’t know how to much perspiring, Peanuts jokingly wanted me to go down to base camp get into the canyon where the dead remarked, “Wow, this is heavy —feels and leave a note for Howard Knutson, rams were. Harley King got close like the guts are still in it.” who was supposed to check The partner said, “Maybe we on us the next day, in order to ought to take them out.” let him know we would be in Much to Peanut’s chagrin and for another week. I was also with the aid of illumination supposed to pick up some from matches and a “Zippo” supplies, like bread, that we cigarette lighter, they dressed had left down below and then the animal and proceeded return right away. again. One of the party decided Back in Cordova, Dick and he wanted to go with me. I had to prepare for college. I What he really wanted to do had a wonderful time, a once- was leave the hunt but didn't in-a-lifetime experience on want to tell Gill that. He kept that hunt, which made it even delaying and delaying, so less appealing going off to a when he and I got down to Photo courtesy the author relatively boring winter of base, it was getting pretty classrooms and studies. dark. Then I discovered he The author—burying his buddy, Dick, in Chitina River sand. This event really tickled Gill’s funny bone. PAGE 26 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007

Your gateway to adventure...

Me C a r t h y Lo d g e Ma J o h n s o n 's H o t e I

~ - .. -~II •. , .. . I?JU Explore the possibUities at 'W'WW'.DI.ccarthylodge.coDI.

: r .· • • .. ,. • 1-907• 554 44() - ~ . . - . . ·" - . ~-and­ ~n 1- Year RounO ~~~~~

WINT~R HO~R~:

1:~~ AM I ~:~~ ~~ ~ee o~r me~~ o~li~e at EST.l896 M.CCfl-~.oom WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 27

McCarthy McCarthy Bed & Breakfast Building Cozy, quiet cabins, all with private bathrooms & showers. Pull into our conveniently located homestead on the Services McCarthy Road, ½ mile from the Kennicott Owners John & Carmen River footbridge. 907-554-4433 Continental breakfast & fresh coffee Private baths Local bonded and insured busi- Gazebo kitchen ness specializing in frame cabin Picnic area building. · Tire repair Contact us for your building needs. [email protected] PO Box MXY Glennallen, AK 99588-8998 (907) 554-4433 PAGE 28 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007

www.PropertyRightsResearch.org Valdez Realty “The Dirt Merchant” Julie Smithson, Researcher WALTER M. WOOD Cor. EGAN & HAZLET 213 Thorn Locust Lane BROKER P.O. BOX 868 (907)835-2408 VALDEZ, AK 99686 London, Ohio 43140-8844 Fax (907)835-5462 [email protected] [email protected] Recreational lots at Chokosna River Tracts—approx. 740-857-1239 (voice/no fax) Mi. 27 McCarthy Hwy. 1 ¼ acre and up—some / hwy frontage, some / Chokosna River frontage. Land for sale For Sale: Two parcels of land. 2-3 COPPER RIVER miles south-west of McCarthy. RECORD Swift Creek Bluffs Subdivision Add. #1. —Tract L, 10.02 acres $70,000. Community Newspaper —Tract T plus Lot 1, 11.39 acres $81,000. for the Copper Valley Subscribe * Advertise * Contribute! Terms available. P.O. Box 277 Glennallen, AK 99588 907-562-4924 or 554-4403. 907-822-3727 phone and fax [email protected]

McCarthy Commercial Kennicott Lot View Lots 2 lots in downtown McCarthy include original structures for J.B. O’Neill ½ acre lot on famous “Silk General Store and attached two story log Stocking Row.” structure. Incredible views of mountains, glaciers Both are “restorable” and lend them- and the Kennecott Mill Building. selves to many uses. Incredible views looking up 3 beautiful valleys. Includes Many large trees. hundreds of original artifacts. Access to water in National Creek. A new septic system has been installed. Custom house plans are included.

(907)332-0422 (907)332-0422 (907)350-2630 (907)350-2630 (907)350-2120 (907)350-2120 $115,000 $75,000 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 29 Cooking with Peggy 1 box powdered sugar This next can be used as a appy Spring everyone 1 cup crunchy peanut butter snack, an appetizer, or even an ac- Hand Happy New Year. 2 sticks oleo, melted companiment to a bowl of hot soup. Hope your winter wasn’t Mix these ingredients together CHICKEN DIP too bad. and form into egg shapes (mine 8-ounces cream cheese I’m writing this in January, so looked more like little logs). 8-ounces sour cream we have a few more months to wait Coat with melted milk choco- 2 large cans of chicken before Spring brings its cactus late discs — place on wax paper to 1 teaspoon seasoned salt blooms, baby Roadrunners and cool. 1 onion, chopped Quail. Hope your holidays were full Hope you try these because they of family, friends, and food. are really, really, good. 1/3 cup parmesan cheese Right before the holidays I re- The next one is for a great side Mix all ingredients, except the sponded to a recipe chain letter. dish. I’ve served it with pork tender- parmesan cheese. Bake in a pie dish I’ve tried that before and never re- loin and sesame chicken. at 350 degrees for 25 to 30 min- ceived any recipes, but this time I utes. Top with parmesan cheese PASTA CON BROCCOLI received three wonderful ones that I during the last 5 minutes. Serve would like to share with you. I pound penne pasta with crackers. The first is one I tried during 1/4 cup olive oil I was so grateful to these people my holiday cooking and it has be- 3 cups broccoli florets who responded to the recipe chain come one of my son’s favorites. He ½ cup onion, diced letter. One was from Ohio, and two had back surgery right before 1 ½ tablespoons garlic, minced were from Pennsylvania. It’s such Christmas but managed to make it 1 ½ cups chicken broth fun to try some of the favorite reci- to the house to celebrate and EAT. ½ cup parmesan cheese pes of others. I would love it if some He called me afterwards to ask if I Cook the pasta, rinse and drain of you would send me some. My ad- had any of those “little peanut but- and set aside. Heat the olive oil and dress is: 11270 E. Golf Links Rd., ter things” left over. saute the broccoli, onion and garlic. Tucson, AZ, 85730. PEANUT BUTTER EGGS Reduce the heat and add the penne Happy cooking and eating every- pasta. Toss and season to taste. one. 1 cup graham cracker crumbs I cup coconut Top with parmesan cheese. (Serves 6-8). McCarthy Road Blog huge success!

The Blog not only helps travel- the Chitina Crew” is often seen as a The new McCarthy Road Web ers, but the Chitina DOT&PF keep comment on the Blog! Log has been very well received this an eye on the Blog to see where po- Before you travel the road, winter. The Web Log, or Blog, is an tential problems are. They have check in at http://wsen.net for the interactive area where you can post been very helpful this year in keep- latest road conditions. comments about the road condi- ing the road open. “Three cheers to tion. PAGE 30 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007

peratures of 20 or above and seven January liquid precipitation at irst, here is a short No- days saw the low temperature dip McCarthy was 1.47 inches (0.20 Fvember Summary. The below a minus ten. inches in Jan. ‘06, 1.03 inches in average temperature for December precipitation was Jan. ‘05 and 1.05 inches in Jan. Nov '06 was -16.6 (4.7 in Nov '05 0.85 inches of liquid precipitation ‘04). Snowfall was 19.2 inches (4.4 and 6.9 in Nov. ‘04), the high was (2.43 in Dec. ‘05 and 2.23 in Dec. inches in Jan. ‘06, 12.1 inches in 26 on the 1st and the low was -41 on ‘04). Total snow fall was 10.4 inches Jan. ‘05 and 15.5 inches in Jan. the 25th and 26th. Total liquid pre- (7.8 inches in Dec. ‘05 and 21.4 ‘04). Snow cover at McCarthy was cipitation was 0.01 inches (4.71 inches in Dec. ‘04). The snow depth 12 inches on January 1, increasing inches in Nov. ‘05 and 1.30 inches was 5 inches at the beginning of the to 21 inches on January 21 and end- in Nov. ‘04) and snowfall was 0.5 month, increasing 12 inches on De- ing January at 19 inches. Total inches (50.1 in Nov. ‘05 and 8.2 in cember 31, and ended the month at snowfall so far for 2006- 2007 sea- Nov. ‘04). The snow depth was 6 12 inches. son is 38.5 inches. inches on the 1st and ended the January saw above average tem- Hidden Creek Lake began month at 5 inches. peratures and average precipitation. dumping water into the Kennicott December 2006 had about aver- The average January tempera- River on January 24. During the age temperatures and below average ture at McCarthy was 7.0(0.9 in Jan. next few days the river ice was cov- precipitation. ‘06, -1.2 in Jan. ‘05, and -15.6 in ered bank to bank with water. This The average December tempera- Jan. ‘04). The high was 34 on Janu- was a very unusual event and will be ture was 6.3 (8.2 in Dec. ‘05 and ary 26 and 27 and the low tempera- covered in other stories. -7.4 in Dec. ‘04). The high was 35 ture was -41 on January 10. After eleven weeks on the road on December 20 (41 on Dec. 8, ‘05 Thirteen days had high tempera- (11,137 miles) and two Alaska Ferry and 41 on Dec. 23, ‘04) and the low tures of 20 or above and five days trips, Sophie (my dear dog) and I was -18 on December 16, 17, and 27 saw the temperature dip below mi- are back in McCarthy. (-45 on Dec. 2, ‘05 and -31 on Dec nus 20. 30, ‘04). Nine days had high tem-

The 2007 edition of A Visitor’s Guide to Kennicott & McCarthy is scheduled for publication in early May. The Guides are given free to area visitors and are available by mail by sending $2.50 s&h to Kenyon Servic- es, PO Box MXY, Glennallen AK 99588. Although the Guide is aimed at Kennicott and McCa- rthy, it also covers the surrounding areas of Kenny Lake, Chitina, Copper Center, Glennallen and Valdez. If you have a small business in any of these areas please contact us for advertising rates. You will be pleasantly surprised!

The Guide is also available online at http://www.mccarthy-kennicott.com/vg/index.html

Phone (907)554-4454 for advertising rates Email [email protected] WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007 PAGE 31 FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION

trate the market. Increasingly, oth- resource and to develop the eco- eventeen years ago, econ- er destinations are flooding nomic potential of the industry by Somist Michael Porter put consumers with more television overhauling the existing pipeline to forward the recipe for commercials, travel stories, co-pro- bring Alaska’s travel resource to competitive success by establishing motions, direct mail, brochures and market. Options to discuss include: that winning industries or regions Internet marketing. In fact, Alaska 1. Increase the funding level for will be those that differentiate now ranks 38th out of the 50 states the ATIA core destination market- themselves by promoting their in terms of public sector funding for ing program in the next state oper- uniqueness. tourism marketing. ating budget to $20 million; Alaska tourism has a competi- ATIA anticipates that its mar- 2. Increase the current funding tive advantage by virtue of its beau- keting effort will be further impact- level for a separate program to en- ty, location and natural resources, ed when industry partners with tice more independent travelers to and the tourism industry has bigger tax bills to pay are forced to $8.5 million – equal to the amount worked hard to promote the state’s abandon their voluntary contribu- of the current vehicle rental tax; exceptional attractions. tions to the marketing program. and, But an increasingly competitive Conservatively, ATIA stands to lose 3. In concert with the Adminis- global marketplace is bearing down $2.5 million in industry contribu- tration, work to make needed on us, and it is no longer enough to tions along with the matching $2.5 amendments to ensure that the have a great product. As Porter said, million from the state. Other state cruise ship tax is implemented in a we must have the means to compete and municipal taxes, fees, transport way that does not hinder the future and differentiate ourselves in a mar- charges, a new car rental tax, lodg- growth of this important sector of ketplace where other destinations ing tax increases and pending cruise Alaska’s travel industry, with partic- are willing and able to spend much industry taxes now account for an ular focus on environmental moni- more to reach their markets. estimated $140 million collected toring, financial disclosure and from tourism businesses and our The good news is that tourism, eliminating duplicative taxes. visitors. This number increases through its destination marketing The potential for the travel in- when you add in other relevant mu- efforts, offers a strong pipeline – a dustry to further strengthen nicipal and state assessments. marketing pipeline that connects Alaska’s economy and enhance its the Alaska travel experience and So who gets hurt when Alaska’s residents’ quality of life is tremen- Alaskan businesses with consumers competitiveness dwindles? Small dous — each vacationer spends all over the world. The deliverable is tourism businesses, those who want about $1,260 to enjoy flightseeing immediate and equates to more jobs in the tourism industry, our trips, fishing charters, museums, than 1.9 million visitors every year. economy and our economic advan- glaciers, Native culture, and state tage. Like other natural resource in- and national parks. But developing dustries, we endeavor to reach the The decision to help grow it further will not happen by acci- market but our pipeline – built Alaska’s travel industry should be an dent. If Alaska is to stay competitive more than 50 years ago – needs re- economic development and invest- for the good of future generations, furbishing. The current destination- ment decision – not a budget deci- it will be important to remember marketing budget combines $5 mil- sion – in which the governor and the tourism is not just ATIA’s business lion in private funds raised from the legislature participate. As the tour- or the state’s business or the industry with $5 million matched by ism industry faces an ever-competi- legislature’s business. Tourism is the state, all managed by the Alaska tive future with dwindling everyone’s business. Travel Industry Association (ATIA). resources, the legislature has been Ron Peck is the president of the But that amount is no longer asked to consider several ways to Alaska Travel Industry Association enough for our message to pene- address this challenge, to look at tourism as a renewable economic PAGE 32 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MARCH & APRIL 2007

60

March 2006 40

20

0

-20

-40 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 50

40

30

20

10 April 2006

1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

w Private cabins for 2 to 4. Your hosts, long-time residents Rick & Bonnie Kenyon. w Convenient access by automobile. w Historic homestead setting. Enjoy Alaskan bush living. w Quiet location away from the crowds! Phone (907)554-4454 or Email [email protected] See us on the WEB at http://mccarthy-kennicott.com/WSENBB.htm