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Home , Nafplio, Parga, Pylos

STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

J o u rn e y o f exploring homeric shores

June 13 to 23, 2012

a program of the stanford alumni association The epic voyage of the great mythic hero, Odysseus, yearning to return home to his family in following the , is a tale that’s captured the imagination of writers and creative talents from James Joyce to Eric Clapton. Join us as we journey to the ancient sites where many of The ’s most enduring stories unfolded. Classics professor Marsh McCall brings ’s poem to life as we explore these shores as the ancients did – by ship. Although our intimate yacht Callisto provides luxurious accommodations that are a far cry from the conditions endured by Odysseus and his men, the cerulean waters of the and the dramatic Peloponnesian coastline place us squarely in the midst of these timeless chronicles, dramatically linking our modern world to the ancient one.

Brett S. Thompson, ’83, Director, Stanford Travel/Study

Highlights

NAVIGATE the dramatic SEE the shrine of Dodona, EXPLORE the remarkable VISIT the beautifully Canal to reach regarded as the oldest Hel- 13th-century B.C.E. ruins preserved 4th-century Odysseus’ legendary home, lenic oracle, where Odysseus of ’s Palace and the theater at the stunning island of Ithaca. is reported to have inquired charming villages of and the majestic remains whether he should return to and . of , city of Ithaca openly or in disguise. .

Kalamata rooftops G REECE Fiskardo Assos

Ithaca CORINTH Canal Kefalonia Corinth Canal Mycenae Ionian Sea Kalamata Pylos M e Methoni d i t Epidaurus e r r a S e a n e a n NAFPLIO

of Odysseus. Visit the bay of Monday, June 18 site confirm that the palace Itinerary Dexia, which may have been Assos / Fiskardo served as the political and the hidden harbor where Picturesque Assos, which is financial center of Mycenaean Wednesday & Thursday, the Phaeacians delivered a almost its own separate island, . This afternoon, June 13 & 14 soundly sleeping Odysseus. being joined only by a very drive to Methoni to tour its Depart U.S. / narrow isthmus to the large Athens, Admire the Cyclopean Walls imposing fortress. With its Depart the U.S. on overnight known locally as Odysseus’ island of Kefalonia, is our first strategic position overlooking flights, arriving on Thursday in Palace and stand atop the stop this morning. View its westbound shipping routes, Athens. Upon arrival, transfer Plateau of Marathia, where ancient ruins including a 16th- Methoni, known as “the eye of to our hotel. Enjoy a welcome the swineherd, century Venetian fortress, and Venice,” derived great wealth cocktail reception this evening. Odysseus’ loyal servant and take time to swim in the azure from both its commercial HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE Makethe firstsur emortal it’s clear he meets that upon line goeswaters from of the Ionian Sea. In activities and as a port of call Ithacahis return to Pa tor gaIthaca, kept his the afternoon, travel to the for pilgrims journeying to and Friday, June 15 animals. CALLISTO (B,L,D) charming village of Fiskardo, from the Holy Land during the Athens / Piraeus / Kefalonia’s northernmost port 12th century. CALLISTO (B,L,D) Embark Callisto Sunday, June 17 whose lovely Venetian houses Explore the of Parga / Dodoni bear the distinction of being Athens, the rocky promontory Arrive in the small town of the only structures in Kefalonia whose monuments represent Parga, built in the shadow not to have been devastated the ultimate expression of clas- of a 14th-century Venetian by an earthquake in 1953. sical Greek civilization, then castle. Travel overland to CALLISTO (B,L,D) visit the new Acropolis Museum Dodoni, location of the shrine that houses the artifacts dis- of Dodona, the oldest oracu- Tuesday, June 19 covered on its slopes. This lar site in Greece, which was Pylos / Methoni afternoon transfer to Piraeus to second in prestige only to the Call at the attractive embark our ship. CALLISTO (B,D) oracle of . Beautifully village of Pylos situated in a valley below this morning. Pylos, supposed Saturday, June 16 Mt. Tomaros, the site includes birthplace of King Nestor, was Corinth Canal / mentioned by Homer in both Ithaca a superb 3rd-century-B.C.E. Navigate the dramatic, four- theater. With 65-foot-high The and , mile-long Corinth Canal, which walls and a seating capacity and its bay was the site of separates the Peloponnesian of 20,000, this theater was a major naval battle during peninsula from mainland the second-largest in ancient the . Greece. Arrive in Ithaca, a Greece. This afternoon Visit the 13th-century-B.C.E. beautiful island of pristine we return to Parga whose , the best- beaches and verdant forest lower quarter is still home to preserved as well as the legendary home traditionally dressed village palace ever discovered. Clay women. CALLISTO (B,L,D) tablets excavated from the lion’s gate at mycenae ASSOS

Wednesday, June 20 a major stronghold of the “...what I want and all my days Kalamata / Messene Mycenaean world. Tiryns Arrive in the second-largest is mentioned by Homer I pine for is to go back to my house and see city of the Peloponnese, who wrote of its mighty Kalamata, renowned for walls, called “cyclopean” my day of homecoming. And if some its dark, juicy olives and because in god batters me far out on the -blue succulent, honey-flavored it was believed that only this figs. One of the few Greek legendary race of giants was water, I will endure it keeping a cities that does not date strong enough to construct back to classical times, them. Continue to the ancient stubborn spirit inside me, for already Kalamata is located just city of and visit many I have suffered much and done five miles from Messene, of the site’s monuments a remarkable ancient city including the famous Heraion much hard work on the waves and founded in 369 B.C.E. after of Argos, the temple dedica- the first Theban invasion of ted to who, in The Iliad, in the fighting. So let this the Peloponnese. Explore the proclaims herself to be its impressive remains including adventure follow.” protector. End the day with the odeon (a building used an exploration of Epidaurus, for musical shows and poetry birthplace of Asclepius the Odysseus in The Odyssey, Book V competitions) and the stadium. healer, whose asclepeion Approximately five miles (healing temple) at Epidaurus of the city’s great wall still was the most acclaimed in the excavated from the city’s century castle of Bourtzi exist, as does the excellently classical world. The income royal tombs, including the located in the middle of preserved northern gate, it generated allowed the city famed funeral mask of Nafplio’s harbor and to affording the finest remaining to construct numerous civic Agamemnon, were cast explore this lovely town that example of Greek fortification. monuments including a theater CALLISTO (B,L,D) in this precious metal. A served as the first capital of with exquisite acoustics that is tour of the site includes the modern Greece until 1834. Thursday, June 21 still in use today. CALLISTO (B,L,D) CALLISTO (B,L,D) Nafplio / Tiryns / tomb of Clytemnestra and Argos / Epidaurus Friday, June 22 the impressive Lion Gate, Saturday, June 23 Begin our day in Nafplio, Mycenae / Nafplio the citadel’s main entrance Piraeus / where we remain in port Travel to Mycenae from whose relief sculpture is Disembark Callisto / for two days. Drive to the which the entire Mycenaean the only surviving piece of Athens / U.S. World Heritage site of Tiryns, historical era takes its name. monumental Mycenaean Disembark our ship in Zea Marina a 3,400-year-old fortress Homer described Mycenae sculpture. Return to Nafplio in Piraeus this morning and reputed to be the birthplace as being “rich in gold” and in the afternoon for free time transfer to the airport in Athens of (Hercules) and indeed many of the treasures to enjoy views of the 15th- for return flights to the U.S. (B)

CALLISTO METHONI CASTLE

Callisto Program Cost*

The Callisto combines the comfort of a larger vessel with the intimacy of Rates are per person, based on double occupancy unless otherwise specified. a small sailing yacht. All 17 air-conditioned cabins are exterior with large Double Single** windows or portholes that look out to sea and feature generous storage $8,995 TV/VCR/DVD Category D space, telephone, , refrigerator and marble bathroom with Daphne Deck, two twin beds, shower. The yacht’s public areas include a spacious lounge, a dining porthole. Average 130 sq. ft. room that accommodates all guests at a single seating, two broad decks Category C $9,795 $12,390 for sunbathing and dining alfresco, and a library. The Callisto is served Daphne Deck, two twin beds, by a crew of 18 and is equipped with the latest navigational instruments, porthole. Average 130 sq. ft. including satellite communication systems. Category B $10,995 $13,590 Leto Deck, two twin beds or Flag: Greece / Length: 170 ft. / Beam: 27.8 ft. / Draft: 10.8 ft. one full bed, window. Average 125 sq. ft. Category A $11,995 Leto Deck, two twin beds or JACUZZI one queen bed, window. Average 140 sq. ft.

SUN DECK LIBRARY * Association nonmembers add $200 per person. BRIDGE ** Single acommodations are limited. Phoebe Deck

LOUNGE DINING SUN DECK BAR ROOM Cleo Deck

PLATFOR M 11 9 7 5 3** SWIM 1*

10 8 6 2* RECEPTION 4** Leto Deck 19 17 15

16 14 12

* Cabin with full-sized bed Daphne Deck assos **Cabin with queen-sized bed

Information Terms &

Dates Conditions June 13 to 23, 2012 (11 days) Deposit & Final Payment Responsibility Size A $1,000 deposit is required to hold The Stanford Alumni Associa- Limited to 30 participants space for the Journey of Odysseus tion, Stanford University and our program. Complete and return operators act only as agents for the

the attached reservation form or passenger with respect to trans- INCLUDED sign up online. Final payment is portation and ship arrangements 8-night cruise aboard the Callisto 1 night of deluxe accommodations due 120 days prior to departure. and exercise every care possible in at the Hotel Grande Bretagne, Athens 8 dinners, 7 lunches and 9 As a condition of participation, all doing so. However, we can assume breakfasts Welcome and farewell cocktail receptions House wine, confirmed participants are required no liability for injury, damage, loss, beer and soft drinks with shipboard lunches and dinners Bottled water to sign a Release of Liability. accident, delay or irregularity in on excursions Gratuities to porters, guides, drivers and ship crew connection with the service of any Cancellations & Refunds automobile, motorcoach, launch for all group activities All tours and shore excursions as described in Deposits and any payments are or any other conveyance used in the itinerary Transfers and baggage handling on program arrival and fully refundable, less a $500-per- carrying out this program or for the departure days Port fees and embarkation taxes Minimal medical, person cancellation fee, until 120 acts or defaults of any company or accident and evacuation insurance Educational program with lecture days prior to departure. After that person engaged in conveying the series and pre-departure materials, including recommended reading list, date, refunds can be made only passenger or in carrying out the a selected book, map and travel information Services of our if the program is sold out and arrangements of the program. We your place(s) can be resold, in professional tour manager to assist you throughout the program cannot accept any responsibility for which case a $1,000-per-person losses or additional expenses due cancellation fee will apply. We to delay or changes in air or other NOT INCLUDED recommend trip-cancellation services, sickness, weather, strike, International and U.S. domestic airfare Passport and visa fees insurance; applications will be war, quarantine, force majeure or Immunization costs Meals and beverages other than those specified sent to you. other causes beyond our control. as included Independent and private transfers Trip-cancellation/ All such losses or expenses will interruption and baggage insurance Excess-baggage charges Insurance have to be borne by the passenger Stanford Travel/Study provides as tour rates provide arrangements Personal items such as email, telephone and fax calls, laundry and all travelers who are U.S. or only for the time stated. We reserve gratuities for nongroup services Canadian citizens with minimal the right to make such alterations to medical, accident and evacuation this published itinerary as may be FUEL COSTS coverage under our group-travel deemed necessary. The right is re- In the uncertain, often volatile oil market of late, it is difficult to predict insurance policy. Our group policy served to cancel any program prior fuel costs over the long term and, more specifically, at the time of is intended to provide minimal levels to departure in which case the entire of protection while you are traveling operation of this voyage. Our prices are based upon the prevailing payment will be refunded without on this program. We strongly further obligation on our part. The fuel rates at the time of brochure printing. While we will do everything recommend that you subscribe right is also reserved to decline to possible to maintain our prices, if the fuel rates increase significantly, to optional baggage and trip- accept or retain any person as a it may be necessary to institute a fuel surcharge. cancellation insurance. A brochure member of the program. No refund offering such insurance will be will be made for an unused portion WHAT TO EXPECT mailed with your confirmation about of any tour unless arrangements We consider this program to be one week after we receive your are made in sufficient time to avoid deposit. The product offered in this moderately strenuous and at penalties. It is understood that the brochure includes a special Waiver ship’s ticket, when issued, shall con- times, physically demanding of Pre-Existing Conditions and stitute the sole contract between the and busy. Most of our touring coverage for Financial Insolvency passenger and the cruise company. is done by motorcoach and Terrorist Acts if you postmark Baggage is carried at the owner’s and boat. Daily excursions your insurance payment within risk entirely. The airlines concerned involve one to three miles 15 days of the date listed on the are not to be held responsible for of walking, often on confirmation letter. any act, omission or event during the time that passengers are not uneven terrain. Much Eligibility onboard their plane or conveyance. of the walking takes We encourage membership in Neither the Alumni Association, place at ancient sites, the Alumni Association as the Stanford University nor our opera- where paths can be program cost for nonmembers tors accept liability for any carrier’s rocky and uneven. is $200 more than the members’ cancellation penalty incurred by Participants must be price. Parents and their children the purchase of a nonrefundable under 21 may travel on one physically fit, active ticket in connection with the tour. membership. For more information Program price is based on rates in and in good health. or to purchase a membership, visit effect in August 2011 and is subject We welcome alumni.stanford.edu/membership to change without notice to reflect travelers 15 or call (650) 725-0692. fluctuations in exchange rates, tariffs years of age or fuel charges. and older on this program. California Seller of Travel Program Registration #2048 523-50

© COPYRIGHT 2011 STANFORD ALUMNI ASSOCIATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Printed on recycled, FSC-certified paper in the U.S. Stanford Faculty Leader

Classics professor Marsh McCall decided he would become a teacher when he was in the third grade and went on to fulfill that desire, introducing legions of university students to the study of classics during a decades-long professorship at Stanford. Long one of Travel/Study’s most popular faculty leaders, Professor McCall has enchanted several thousands of participants on over 35 Travel/Study programs with his lectures and on-site readings of classical authors. As Professor McCall says, “What makes the trips so intensely rewarding is being able to stand “I will always on-site and read in translation some of the passages from the great works of antiquity that are remember Pro- connected to that location.” fessor McCall reading the last Stanford professor of classics since 1976 lines of The Iliad At Stanford: former chair, classics department; associate on the wind- dean, undergraduate studies; chair, Western culture swept island of program committee; and dean, continuing studies Recipient of the Dinkelspiel Award for outstanding Limnos. For a service to undergraduate education, the Lyman moment in time Award for faculty volunteer service and the Phi Beta we were back in Kappa Teacher of the Year Award ancient Greece.” PhD, classics, Harvard

Richard Sobelle, ’56 Aegean Sea College, 2009

STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

Reservation Form SIGN UP ONLINE! Journey of Odysseus I/We have read the Terms and Conditions for the program and agree to them. June 13 to 23, 2012 Signature ______If this is a reservation for one person, please indicate: I wish to have single accommodations. OR I plan to share accommodations with ______OR I’d like to know about possible roommates. MR. / MRS. / MS. MISS / DR. / PROF. NAME AGE sTANFORD CLASS Category Preference: 1st choice: ______Twin Beds Double Bed MR. / MRS. / MS. MISS / DR. / PROF. 2nd choice: ______Twin Beds Double Bed NAME aGE sTANFORD CLASS Here is my deposit of $______($1,000 per person) for ______space(s) (make payable to Stanford Alumni Association) ADDRESS Enclosed is my check OR Charge my deposit to my: Visa MasterCard American Express

CITY / STATE / ZIP CARD # EXPIRES

HOME PHONE WORK PHONE AUTHORIZED CARDHOLDER SIGNATURE DATE

CELL PHONE Mail completed form to address on mail panel or fax to (650) 725-8675 or place your deposit online at alumni.stanford.edu/trip?odysseus2012. Please submit your reservation only once to avoid multiple charges to EMAIL ADDRESS your account. 7520

Stanford Travel/Study Nonprofit Org. J o u rn e y o f Frances C. Arrillaga Alumni Center U.S. Postage 326 Galvez Street P A I D Stanford, CA 94305-6105 Stanford Alumni Odysseus Association (650) 725-1093 exploring homeric shores

June 13 to 23, 2012

alumni.stanford.edu/goto/travelstudy

“We were impressed with the care with which the tour was planned and the excellent way that it was carried out. We returned having seen things we hadn’t expected and learned things that we much appreciated.”

Tom and Martha Piwonka, ’59 | Gods and Heroes of the Ancient World, 2010

STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

Theater of Epidaurus