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Chef Marcus Samuelsson Marcus Samuelsson believes in the power of food and community. “Food is a window into other cultures. ‘Who are you? I want to join you on your journey,’” says the chef and owner of New York City’s Red Rooster Harlem and Ginny’s Supper Club, among other eateries, and host of PBS’s new show No Passport Required. “It’s wonderful and delicious to invite someone over and tell your story through food.” And Samuelsson’s got quite the story. Born in Ethiopia, he was adopted and grew up in Sweden, where he learned to cook with his Swedish grandmother. But he was also heavily influenced by the flavors and cooking techniques of his biological father’s family. Here in the states, he’s rolled those influences and others into his own individual style, showcased at his New York CAN BOND restaurants and establishments as far-flung as London, Bermuda, and COMMUNITIES, Chicago. Here, he shares a little of BRIDGE CULTURES, his story—and his food. How did you develop my unique AND HELP THE become interested style of cooking, and in cooking? there is a time and WORLD EVOLVE INTO I come from a family place for both. For where cooking breaking a fast with A BETTER PLACE. was a central part of friends and family, spending time Ethiopian food is CHEF MARCUS together. My grand- fantastic. For simple ma cooked for us preparation of after school, and we seafood, Swedish is SAMUELSSON had to help out. I got the style you want. interested by eating Are there common EXPLAINS HOW. real food at home, themes? Are BY MELANIE MANNARINO and making home- there things each cooked food every cuisine could learn day. And getting from the other? a real sense that it Both are driven by takes a certain nature: Sweden is collaborative effort surrounded by water, to make it happen. lakes, and rivers, and most food we think How does your background, of as Swedish is drawing on Swedish seafood. Ethiopia and Ethiopian has heat, and is high traditions, influence up in the mountains. your approach to We think of spice cooking? blends, vegetarian There is a lot in cooking. Both are Swedish food—the remote places, and minimalistic design nature is the connec- and clean flavors— tion, the terroir. Samuelsson that speaks to me. invites everyone How would you Then there’s the describe the food to enjoy the warmth of Ethiopian healthy soul food you serve at Red at Red Rooster stews and spices— Rooster Harlem, Harlem. IMAGES. LANE/CONTOUR/GETTY PHOTOGRAPHY: both sides help me and how does the SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 97 restaurant fit into Ginny’s is music are different ways without having the community first, food second. to get there. great partners like around it? It’s the theatrical, Our customers WW there. It Red Rooster musical portion of are diverse, and makes it a much wouldn’t be Red Harlem come to it’s our job as a more democratic Rooster without life. Food and restaurant to meet event. Great food Harlem’s amazing music have this them where they doesn’t happen community. It incredible way of are in this moment. just to rich people. shows in our food, connecting people. Tell us about How does it feel hospitality, music, CHIPOTLE CHICKEN How important is cooking for former to be involved SKEWERS and art. The food it to you to stay President Obama in that? is rooted in the PREP 30 MIN // COOK 10 MIN // true to a cuisine? when he was in This year we SERVES 8 cooking of the As a chef, I am the White House. had thousands This delicious recipe was served at great migration, curious and have It was an amazing of people from 2018’s EatUp Harlem event. of African to evolve. And part opportunity, and 30 states and Americans coming of that is to cook I was so excited to seven countries 8 oz orange juice north and bring- the way the world cook for him and participate. That 1/2 c red chili sauce ing their food with operates around the First Lady, always gives 1/2 c lime juice them. It’s in- you. When I at a state dinner me a hunger to 2 medium garlic cloves fluenced by me started cooking, it honoring Prime do more. 2 canned chipotles en adobo, being an immi- Minister Singh of or to taste was about getting You and your wife grant, and Harlem the best ingredi- India and his wife. I 1 tsp ground cumin founded the Three © 2014 BY MARCUS SAMUELSSON. being filled with ents, no matter was inspired by Goats Organiza- 1 tsp kosher salt + extra for chicken (optional) immigrants. The when, or from American and tion—what does restaurant is all Indian food and that group do? 1/2 tsp black pepper + extra for where. Today we chicken (optional) about America, culture, so I served Three Goats is talk about delicious 1/2 tsp chili powder then and now. food—but also basmati rice, gulf an area between 3 lb skinless boneless chicken Opening Red inclusion and shrimp in a light Somalia and breast, cut into 1-inch pieces DUTY OFF MARCUS Rooster was one seasonality. And curry sauce, corn Ethiopia that 3 medium red onions, each cut of the biggest we are better for it. bread—and used essentially belongs through the root into 6 pieces experiences of ingredients from to no one, but 1 tsp sesame seeds, toasted How much do you there are people my life. Getting think about health Michelle Obama’s 1 Tbsp cilantro, chopped acceptance and and nutrition garden. It was a living there. And in 1 Tbsp basil, chopped support from our meal that many areas like when you cook? 1 Combine orange juice, chili celebrated both that, the most community is Health and sauce, lime juice, garlic, chipotles, vulnerable people everything. Artists nutrition are part America and India. cumin, 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp black are often young supported us, local of everything we Tell us about the pepper, and chili powder in a food jazz musicians do. Even if I want Harlem EatUp! girls. My wife and processor and puree until smooth. came right away. to fry something, I event you’ve been I wanted to focus Add salt and pepper to taste. Not just to dine consider how to involved in for the on giving them 2 Put the chicken into a 1-gallon with us, but also to simmer it before- past four years. access to clean zip-close plastic bag, add ½ cup of guide us, in terms hand, so I can fry it In general, water, healthy marinade; massage to coat the of how to make it quicker. How can I we learn about food, and chicken. Refrigerate 2 hours. right for Harlem. use a lighter bread communities education. Things Reserve the remaining marinade. through festivals, every girl should 3 Preheat a broiler, or a gas grill to And Ginny’s crumb and egg through the arts. have, no matter her medium. Meanwhile, slide 1 piece of Supper Club? Was white? We don’t onion onto each of 16 skewers, the vision the compromise on The Harlem EatUp! religion or tribe. same, or different? delicious, but there festival was cre- It’s so important followed by a few pieces of chicken. ated with the idea to us that, thanks Arrange skewers in a single layer of inspiring people to the Three Goats on a large baking sheet. Season MUSIC to come to Harlem Organization and lightly with salt and pepper; brush IS ANOTHER for the cultural our many volun- with ¼ cup of reserved marinade. experience and teers, 200 girls at a 4 Broil the skewers without turning, WINDOW until chicken is cooked through, putting Harlem top time now have INTO 8–10 minutes, or grill 5–6 minutes of mind as a great access to clean DIFFERENT per side. Transfer to a platter food destination. water and nutri- CULTURES. and garnish with sesame seeds, IT MAKES It’s a way of tion, and can cilantro, and basil. YOU MORE saying to other attend school. 5 Bring remaining marinade communities, “We These are huge to a boil in a small saucepan and EXCITED are here, come to numbers—in four serve with the skewers. TO GO us through food.” years we’ve been PER SERVING (2 skewers): 262 cal, 5 g TO A NEW The festival was able to provide for total fat, 1 g sat fat, 578 mg sod, 13 total PLACE. largely free—and thousands of carb, 7 g sugar, 2 g fiber, 40 g prot. that wouldn’t work young girls. SmartPoints value: 2 PHOTOGRAPHY: TRUNK ARCHIVE (LEFT); PAUL BRISSMAN (ABOVE). CHIPOTLEREPRODUCED CHICKEN BY SKEWERS PERMISSION IS EXCERPTED OF RUX MARTIN FROM BOOKS/HOUGHTON MIFFLIN HARCOURT. EDITED BY WEIGHT WATCHERS. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 98 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 / weightwatchers.com.
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