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AsiaLIFE Cambodia 1 2 AsiaLIFE Cambodia AsiaLIFE Cambodia 3 122010 ISSUE48 editorial mark bibby jackson Editor-in-Chief / Publisher: Mark Bibby Jackson [email protected] Editor: Nora Lindstrom – [email protected] Associate Editor: Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen – [email protected] Writer: Nina Lamparski – [email protected] Siem Reap: Nicky McGavin – [email protected] Art Director/Designer: Keith Kelly – [email protected] Sales Manager: Qudy Xu – [email protected] Sales: Sorn Chantha – [email protected] Photo Editor: James Grant – [email protected] Photographers: James Grant, Nathan Horton, Nick Sells & Conor Wall Proof Reader: Catriona McLoughlin Accounts & Distribution: Seang Seyha & Seang Satcha Special thanks to: Adam Bray, Darren Gall, Clive Graham-Ranger, Anders Jirås, Kon Khmer Koun Khmer, Tith Kanitha, Trevor Keidan, Muna Khan, Will Koenig, Nicky McGavin, Mouy, David Murphy, Our Books, David Preece, Professional Design students of Limkokwing University, John Thornton, Vuth, Laura Watson, Sok Yeng and Beth Young – for their contribution to this issue. As the recent elections in Myan- themselves. From contempo- For advertising enquiries call Qudy on 012 960 076 mar and subsequent release of rary visual art to the internet to or Chantha on 012 576 878. Aung San Suu Kyi have shown, filmmaking to tattooing, Khmers If you want a copy of AsiaLIFE Guide Phnom Penh delivered to your the subject of human rights is are expressing themselves in doorstep email: [email protected] still a thorny one in Asia. Stu- ways that were either prohibited dents of the subject will know or not available to the previous AsiaLIFE Guide Phnom Penh is printed in Cambodia by the dichotomy between western generations. Where their journey Sok Heng Printing House, No. 1297B, Street Luo 5, and Asian views. The former takes them is as uncertain as Stoeung Mean Chey, Phnom Penh, Cambodia. stresses the importance of so- the road to democracy (what- cial, cultural and political rights ever this means) that Myanmar On the Cover: Photo: James Grant whereas the East believes in is currently embarking upon. Model: Tith Kanitha the primacy of economic ones. However, the journey is sure to Art Direction/Design: Keith Kelly Is there an inherent conflict be an intriguing one. Location: “The Mansion” (FCC) between the two views? Does economic development preclude the protection of social and This issue marks an end of an political rights? Why, in order to era for AsiaLIFE. Right from the provide someone with work, do outset there has been one ever- Partners: you have to prohibit his or her present member of the team freedom of expression? (excluding myself). Keith Kelly Before I came to Cambodia I was AsiaLIFE’s art director from lectured at a university in Hanoi. Issue 1. In the early shoestring AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. One of my lectures was on hu- days Keith, sometimes with my No content may be reproduced in any form without man rights. In it we discussed assistance but more often than prior authorisation of the owners. freedom of expression. My not without, would put the mag- © 360º Media. students kindly informed me azine to bed in his front room, that I had it wrong. Freedom of while his wife Nathalie slept in Expression was the right of the the neighbouring bedroom. majority to be protected from any Keith’s devotion and loyalty to insult caused by a vociferous mi- the magazine is testament to the nority. Why should the few have man’s character. However, now the right to hurt the many? That, as Keith is shortly to become a they said, was the way it was in father, he has decided to head Vietnam, admittedly in a country off for pastures new. I wish him where the media is much more and Nathalie all the best for censored than in Cambodia. the future. I owe an enormous So, with the universal rights personal debt of gratitude to of man and the specific rights the absurdly tall New Orleans of one woman very firmly in Saint’s fan without whom there Travelling to Vietnam? the spotlight, we have decided would be no AsiaLIFE. Pick up your free copy of to walk into the dragon’s den If you have any comments on AsiaLIFE Ho Chi Minh City and see the ways that young the magazine, please email me at: or download it online at: Khmers are finding to express [email protected]. www.asialifehcmc.com. 6 AsiaLIFE Cambodia AsiaLIFE Cambodia 7 122010 ISSUE48 32 front 10 News & Events food 52 Food Talk: Mamma Mia! 16 Openings 54 The United Nations of Coffee 20 Calendars with a Kick 27 Dispatches Pop Café serves up Italian food just the way Giorgio’s Mamma makes it. Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen speaks with Giorgio and Rosa Arcasi about 28 Q&A pasta, polipetti, and passion. As the Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra prepares to open its doors, General Manager Didier Lamoot provides a taste of what to expect from the luxurious facilities. Find out what’s on this month in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh in our calendars. style & design 56 Gifts Galore 30 The Personal is Political: Wracking your brain for holiday gift ideas? James Grant showcases a feature Khmer Female Artists Make medley of presents and stocking fillers. Themselves Heard 36 Blog Control 2.0 38 See It, Film It, Change It 62 The List 40 Inking Identity back 98 Spotlight For this issue’s theme, freedom of expression, Nora Lindstrom explores 100 how Khmer female artists are challenging stereotypes and finding their Map voices, whereas Nina Lamparski and Clive Graham-Ranger discover how 104 Letter Cambodians are using technology to make themselves heard. 106 Pub Quiz Last but not least, we capture a glimpse of Phnom Penh nightlife in 42 Joining Golf’s Mile-High Club Spotlight and challenge your general knowledge in the Pub Quiz, while travel Will Koenig reminisces about Christmases in Cambodia. 44 Discovering Myanmar’s Colonial Past Mark Jackson tees off at Vietnam’s Dalat Palace Golf Club, one of the most striking golf courses in the region. Jeremy Kressman confronts the past and future on a trip to Pyin U Lwin in Myanmar. 50 58 storyboard 46 Running through Angkor 48 The Nature of Justice 50 Returning to their Roots A race set amidst the temples and scenery near Siem Reap, the Angkor Wat Half Marathon will take place in December. Nicky McGavin finds out what’s in store. Raising questions of post-conflictjustice, director Rebecca Richman Cohen discusses her documentary on Sierra Leone, War Don Don. 8 AsiaLIFE Cambodia AsiaLIFE Cambodia 9 Challenge On Two Wheels news & events A 240 Christmas Sofitel Checks in to ASOP supports sport programmes Phnom Penh in the Pacific and Caribbean, The Sofitel Phnom Penh India, and southern Africa. Phokeethra opens its doors on Indochina Starfish Foundation Dec. 18. The latest address from was among 23 projects awarded French luxury hotel brand Sofi- with new sports development tel, which has locations across 40 grants out of 130 applicants. countries, is the first five-star ho- The NGO has announced plans tel to launch in the Cambodian to develop its football training capital for the past ten years. programme for children from The Kirirom Mountain Bike support local NGO Pour With 201 rooms laid out over orphanages and street organisa- Challenge returns for the un Sourire d’Enfant. Par- four hectares, the Phokeethra is tions in Battambang, Kandal, sixth time with the 2010 ticipants have the chance to well positioned to meet the city’s Prey Veng, and Phnom Penh, in edition, set for Dec. 12. win cash and prizes valued increasing wave of tourists. Set partnership with the Football Bikers from all around the at US$3,000. along the banks of the Mekong Federation of Cambodia and the It’s beginning to look a lot day décor for the occasion, world will descend upon Those interested in taking River, the 12-storey building Sports and Leadership Training like Christmas—or, at least with seasonal music being the Kirirom National Park on the challenge can regis- features views of the rapidly Academy. Indochina Starfish it will during Street 240’s played outside to get every- in Kampong Speu Prov- ter at Flying Bike Shop (8 developing cityscape. Eight res- Foundation anticipates the grant Christmas fair on Dec. 9 to one in the mood. Shops will ince, located 120km west of Street 144) and Smey’s Shop taurants and bars, five meeting will benefit over 2,500 children, 11. Entitled Luxury 240, the remain open until 10pm, Phnom Penh. (18 Street 360). Entry fees rooms, and an executive lounge, by allowing for wider participa- event serves to showcase the with activities, such as Organised by engineering are US$5 for Khmers and Club Millésime, count among tion in the programme. high-quality, unique products manicures, wine tasting and company Comin Khmere, US$20 for foreigners. the Phokeethra’s highlights. for which the street is known. face painting, taking place the event promotes sport Contact 012 269 879 for The hotel also boasts exten- Bring on the Fun Organised by the women outside beginning at 5pm. in Cambodia and helps more information. sive fitness facilities, including Local NGO Mith Samlanh will behind Subtyl Boutique, Each participating business an outdoor swimming pool, ten- host a FunFair on Dec. 11. The Couleurs d’Asie, Chilli Kids, will have lucky draws with nis and squash courts, and fully event will take place from 1pm and Water Lily, the festivities a variety of prizes on offer acts by local performers. James and Battambang during the first equipped gym. to 5pm at the Mith Samlanh are set to include 30 partici- for fortunate shoppers.