AsiaLIFE Cambodia 1 2 AsiaLIFE Cambodia AsiaLIFE Cambodia 3

122010 ISSUE48 editorial mark bibby jackson Editor-in-Chief / Publisher: Mark Bibby Jackson [email protected] Editor: Nora Lindstrom – [email protected] Associate Editor: Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen – [email protected] Writer: Nina Lamparski – [email protected] Siem Reap: Nicky McGavin – [email protected] Art Director/Designer: Keith Kelly – [email protected] Sales Manager: Qudy Xu – [email protected] Sales: Sorn Chantha – [email protected] Photo Editor: James Grant – [email protected] Photographers: James Grant, Nathan Horton, Nick Sells & Conor Wall Proof Reader: Catriona McLoughlin Accounts & Distribution: Seang Seyha & Seang Satcha Special thanks to: Adam Bray, Darren Gall, Clive Graham-Ranger, Anders Jirås, Kon Khmer Koun Khmer, Tith Kanitha, Trevor Keidan, Muna Khan, Will Koenig, Nicky McGavin, Mouy, David Murphy, Our Books, David Preece, Professional Design students of Limkokwing University, John Thornton, Vuth, Laura Watson, Sok Yeng and Beth Young – for their contribution to this issue.

As the recent elections in Myan- themselves. From contempo- For advertising enquiries call Qudy on 012 960 076 mar and subsequent release of rary visual art to the internet to or Chantha on 012 576 878. Aung San Suu Kyi have shown, filmmaking to tattooing, Khmers If you want a copy of AsiaLIFE Guide delivered to your the subject of human rights is are expressing themselves in doorstep email: [email protected] still a thorny one in Asia. Stu- ways that were either prohibited dents of the subject will know or not available to the previous AsiaLIFE Guide Phnom Penh is printed in Cambodia by the dichotomy between western generations. Where their journey Sok Heng Printing House, No. 1297B, Street Luo 5, and Asian views. The former takes them is as uncertain as Stoeung Mean Chey, Phnom Penh, Cambodia. stresses the importance of so- the road to democracy (what- cial, cultural and political rights ever this means) that Myanmar On the Cover: Photo: James Grant whereas the East believes in is currently embarking upon. Model: Tith Kanitha the primacy of economic ones. However, the journey is sure to Art Direction/Design: Keith Kelly Is there an inherent conflict be an intriguing one. Location: “The Mansion” (FCC) between the two views? Does economic development preclude the protection of social and This issue marks an end of an political rights? Why, in order to era for AsiaLIFE. Right from the provide someone with work, do outset there has been one ever- Partners: you have to prohibit his or her present member of the team freedom of expression? (excluding myself). Keith Kelly Before I came to Cambodia I was AsiaLIFE’s art director from lectured at a university in Hanoi. Issue 1. In the early shoestring AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. One of my lectures was on hu- days Keith, sometimes with my No content may be reproduced in any form without man rights. In it we discussed assistance but more often than prior authorisation of the owners. freedom of expression. My not without, would put the mag- © 360º Media. students kindly informed me azine to bed in his front room, that I had it wrong. Freedom of while his wife Nathalie slept in Expression was the right of the the neighbouring bedroom. majority to be protected from any Keith’s devotion and loyalty to insult caused by a vociferous mi- the magazine is testament to the nority. Why should the few have man’s character. However, now the right to hurt the many? That, as Keith is shortly to become a they said, was the way it was in father, he has decided to head Vietnam, admittedly in a country off for pastures new. I wish him where the media is much more and Nathalie all the best for censored than in Cambodia. the future. I owe an enormous So, with the universal rights personal debt of gratitude to of man and the specific rights the absurdly tall New Orleans of one woman very firmly in Saint’s fan without whom there Travelling to Vietnam? the spotlight, we have decided would be no AsiaLIFE. Pick up your free copy of to walk into the dragon’s den If you have any comments on AsiaLIFE Ho Chi Minh City and see the ways that young the magazine, please email me at: or download it online at: Khmers are finding to express [email protected]. www.asialifehcmc.com.

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front 10 News & Events food 52 Food Talk: Mamma Mia! 16 Openings 54 The United Nations of Coffee 20 Calendars with a Kick 27 Dispatches Pop Café serves up Italian food just the way Giorgio’s Mamma makes it. Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen speaks with Giorgio and Rosa Arcasi about 28 Q&A pasta, polipetti, and passion. As the Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra prepares to open its doors, General Manager Didier Lamoot provides a taste of what to expect from the luxurious facilities. Find out what’s on this month in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh in our calendars. style & design 56 Gifts Galore

30 The Personal is Political: Wracking your brain for holiday gift ideas? James Grant showcases a feature Khmer Female Artists Make medley of presents and stocking fillers. Themselves Heard 36 Blog Control 2.0 38 See It, Film It, Change It 62 The List 40 Inking Identity back 98 Spotlight For this issue’s theme, freedom of expression, Nora Lindstrom explores 100 how Khmer female artists are challenging stereotypes and finding their Map voices, whereas Nina Lamparski and Clive Graham-Ranger discover how 104 Letter Cambodians are using technology to make themselves heard. 106 Pub Quiz

Last but not least, we capture a glimpse of Phnom Penh nightlife in 42 Joining Golf’s Mile-High Club Spotlight and challenge your general knowledge in the Pub Quiz, while travel Will Koenig reminisces about Christmases in Cambodia. 44 Discovering Myanmar’s Colonial Past

Mark Jackson tees off at Vietnam’s Dalat Palace Golf Club, one of the most striking golf courses in the region. Jeremy Kressman confronts the past and future on a trip to Pyin U Lwin in Myanmar. 50 58 storyboard 46 Running through Angkor 48 The Nature of Justice 50 Returning to their Roots

A race set amidst the temples and scenery near Siem Reap, the Angkor Wat Half Marathon will take place in December. Nicky McGavin finds out what’s in store. Raising questions of post-conflictjustice, director Rebecca Richman Cohen discusses her documentary on Sierra Leone, War Don Don.

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news & events A 240 Christmas Sofitel Checks in to ASOP supports sport programmes Phnom Penh in the Pacific and Caribbean, The Sofitel Phnom Penh India, and southern Africa. Phokeethra opens its doors on Indochina Starfish Foundation Dec. 18. The latest address from was among 23 projects awarded French luxury hotel brand Sofi- with new sports development tel, which has locations across 40 grants out of 130 applicants. countries, is the first five- ho- The NGO has announced plans tel to launch in the Cambodian to develop its football training capital for the past ten years. programme for children from The Kirirom Mountain Bike support local NGO Pour With 201 rooms laid out over orphanages and street organisa- Challenge returns for the un Sourire d’Enfant. Par- four hectares, the Phokeethra is tions in Battambang, Kandal, sixth time with the 2010 ticipants have the chance to well positioned to meet the city’s Prey Veng, and Phnom Penh, in edition, set for Dec. 12. win cash and prizes valued increasing wave of tourists. Set partnership with the Football Bikers from all around the at US$3,000. along the banks of the Mekong Federation of Cambodia and the It’s beginning to look a lot day décor for the occasion, world will descend upon Those interested in taking River, the 12-storey building Sports and Leadership Training like Christmas—or, at least with seasonal music being the Kirirom National Park on the challenge can regis- features views of the rapidly Academy. Indochina Starfish it will during Street 240’s played outside to get every- in Kampong Speu Prov- ter at Flying Bike Shop (8 developing cityscape. Eight res- Foundation anticipates the grant Christmas fair on Dec. 9 to one in the mood. Shops will ince, located 120km west of Street 144) and Smey’s Shop taurants and bars, five meeting will benefit over 2,500 children, 11. Entitled Luxury 240, the remain open until 10pm, Phnom Penh. (18 Street 360). Entry fees rooms, and an executive lounge, by allowing for wider participa- event serves to showcase the with activities, such as Organised by engineering are US$5 for Khmers and Club Millésime, count among tion in the programme. high-quality, unique products manicures, wine tasting and company Comin Khmere, US$20 for foreigners. the Phokeethra’s highlights. for which the street is known. face painting, taking place the event promotes sport Contact 012 269 879 for The hotel also boasts exten- Bring on the Fun Organised by the women outside beginning at 5pm. in Cambodia and helps more information. sive fitness facilities, including Local NGO Mith Samlanh will behind Subtyl Boutique, Each participating business an outdoor swimming pool, ten- host a FunFair on Dec. 11. The Couleurs d’Asie, Chilli Kids, will have lucky draws with nis and squash courts, and fully event will take place from 1pm and Water Lily, the festivities a variety of prizes on offer acts by local performers. James and Battambang during the first equipped gym. to 5pm at the Mith Samlanh are set to include 30 partici- for fortunate shoppers. Even Sutherland from Radio City is two weeks in December. Around For guests and locals alike, Center, next to Friends Restau- pating shops and restaurants. Santa Claus has promised to scheduled to appear, as well as a 140 artists from ten countries the Phokeethra is a significant rant. Kids of all ages can delight “Usually it doesn’t feel like fly in from Lapland. visit from Santa Claus himself. will join the series of workshops, addition to Phnom Penh’s range in games, stalls, and an exciting Christmas here, so this is The event may also mark parades, and performances of of upscale locations. programme of events at this something for expats who a movement towards a more Dance, Dance, Dance daring feats, including tightrope family-oriented event. really miss the parties and unified Street 240, with aims Amrita Performing Arts’ latest walking, didgeridoo playing, Indochina Starfish In the games room, Cell- the lights,” says Sandrine to create a street association project, due to have its world fire twirling, and mime. Scoops Grant card sponsored activities will Bury, owner of Subtyl. “For and arrange future hap- premiere at the Singapore Arts On Dec. 4, the opening parade The Australian Sports Outreach include Go Fish and Ring Toss. Christmas, usually there’s penings. “This is the first Festival in May, is currently in pro- will take place in Phnom Penh, Programme (ASOP) presented A beauty salon, massage booth, something happening in your step,” explains Christine duction. The piece will be created followed by two evenings of Cambodian NGO Indochina and face painting by Mith town. And we thought, why Gauthier of Water Lily. during a December workshop with shows at the Chaktomuk Con- Starfish Foundation with a grant Samlanh Beauty students are don’t we do something?” “We would like to organise eight of Cambodia’s most talented ference Hall and French Cultural of Aus$15,000 for 2010-11. Funded further highlights. The Talent Street 240 will be fes- different events together performers, overseen by renowned Centre. The festival will then re- by AusAID and managed by the Fest will present Mith Samlanh tooned with lights and holi- throughout the year.” German choreographer Arco Renz. commence in Battambang from Australian Sports Commission, singers and dancers along with Exploring the emergence of a Dec. 9-12. For more information, new generation of Cambodians, visit: www.phareps.org. the workshop will touch upon questions of identity, hopes, social Saddling Up challenges, and integration with A team of Cambodian horseback the world. Renz strives to trans- riders will take part in a competi- late the principles of Cambodian tion in Thailand on Dec. 11 and classical dance and music into an 12, competing internationally for original physical language. the first time. A free public showing is antic- Two of the children in the ipated for Dec. 11 at the Chenla team are supported by Cheval Theatre. For more information, Avenir, a charity that promotes call 023 220 424. horseback riding among under- privileged children in Cambo- A Festival of Feats dia. Cheval Avenir partners with Cambodian NGO Phare Ponleu the Maddox Foundation, a local Selpak will stage its 7th edition NGO addressing the needs of of the International Circus Fes- children affected by HIV/AIDS. tival Tini Tinou in Phnom Penh The programme aims to help

10 AsiaLIFE Cambodia AsiaLIFE Cambodia 11 the International Year of Youth, bodian residents and expats. For Bojan Hodak. The Croatian- Until Jan. 31, early registration Hungry Plant Discovered proceeds from ticket sales will more information, call 023 991 born Hodak made his public rates for the full conference are support grassroots NGOs work- 000 for Phnom Penh and 063 761 debut during a friendly game US$50 for Cambodian, Viet- ing with the youth of Cambo- 888 for Siem Reap. at the National Olympic namese and Laotian partici- dia, including Epic Arts, Tiny Stadium on Nov. 13, alongside pants and US$100 for others, Toones, and Rose Charities. Extra-Credit Opportunities the assistant and goalkeeping with option to sign up for one The black tie event will be held No scratch card needed, Beeline coaches. Hodak had a notable day. Fees are raised after that at Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tickets Cambodia is collaborating with career as a player in Croatia, date. Participants can also (US$80) include a three-course ABA Bank to provide a new ser- Singapore, and Hong Kong, sponsor rural Cambodian meal and drinks throughout the vice for topping up phone bal- before earning his UEFA provincial teachers to attend evening, live jazz band and lucky ances. This additional method professional coaching licence. the conference. To register, see door prizes. To reserve tickets, of purchase gives customers The team has also signed up www.camtesol.org. call 077 998 439 or email ppchris- the option to buy Beeline credit five up-and-coming players— [email protected]. through ATMs provided by three Cambodians and two Exceptional Women ABA Bank, as well as through Nigerian-born players from of Cambodia Fractured Fairy Tale internet banking. PIN Codes the Singapore League. Hodak Know a Cambodian woman The Phnom Penh Players premier will be available for values be- wants the Crown to play open who deserves recognition? this year’s Christmas pantomime, tween US$2 and US$5. With 28 attractive football and retain Launched by the Women’s “Robin in Da Hood” on Dec. 10. ATMs throughout Phnom Penh, the Cambodian League Cham- International Group of Cam- Don’t expect the standard version Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and pionship as well as impress in bodia, the Indradevi Hope of Robin Hood, as in classic pan- Battambang, and plans for ABA regional competitions. Awards are the first indepen- tomime tradition the group will to launch more in 2011, topping dent awards for female com- be throwing in a few twists. up has never been easier. With English Teachers Unite munity development leaders A carnivorous plant, long the red and green leaves capture A Motown influence, surprise the convenience of the new Registrations are currently be- in Cambodia. Named after an nemesis of insects in Cambo- and digest bugs. In response characters, and slapstick humour service, there’s no excuse for ing accepted for the 7th annual altruistic Angkorean queen, the dia’s Cardamom Mountains, to the forest fires common are sure to provide an evening staying out of credit! CamTESOL Conference on awards aim to recognise Cam- now has a name—Nepenthes during dry season, Nepenthes of pure entertainment. Staged English Language Teaching for bodian women in the catego- Holdenii. Discovered by and Holdenii can produce an un- at the Russian Cultural Centre, Blue Pumpkin in the Penh Feb. 26 to 27, 2011. The pro- ries of dedication, leadership named after British photog- derground tuber that creates a subsequent performances will At last, a Blue Pumpkin craving gramme will include over 300 and young achiever. The award rapher Jeremy Holden, the new pitcher-bearing vine once follow on Dec. 11 at 1.30pm and can now be gratified in Phnom presentations by profession- ceremony and gala dinner will carnivorous pitcher plant is the the blazes have ceased. A 7.30pm. Tickets (US$10) can be Penh. In December, the long- als in the field from over 30 take place on Mar. 12 at the latest species to be identified true testament to the wonder purchased from Java Café sales, running, popular Siem Reap countries. Optional activities InterContinental Phnom Penh in Cambodia by Fauna & Flora of nature, the pitcher plant and proceeds will benefit Epic café opens two locations in the include educational site visits, Hotel. Winners will be given International (FFI). Reaching illustrates the richness of Arts, a charity providing arts capital. Expect the same winning a regional ELT leadership a plaque, commissioned by up to 30cm long, its large vegetation in Cambodia. programmes to people of all formula. Baked goods will be in forum, and conference dinner. Artisans d’Angkor, a certificate, abilities and disabilities. full force, as well as Blue Pump- kin’s famous ice cream with 40 Keep the Flu at Bay flavours to choose from. Both children learn to care for their oversaw the occasion that As flu season approaches, new outlets are comfortable, horses and to engage in positive, included a blessing dance and Royal Rattanak Hospital in modern-style spaces with wire- confidence-building activities. cultural performance show Phnom Penh’s Toul Kork and less internet and air-condition- A relationship we of traditional Chinese dragon Royal Angkor International ing. The riverside branch, on the CIMB Banking dancing accompanied by drums Hospital in Siem Reap have corner of Street 144, features two take seriously. on Success and cymbals. Attendees had the launched its flu campaign. floors and an exquisite view of CIMB Bank PLC launches in opportunity to walk through Valid until the end of July the Tonle Sap. The second loca- Everyone is different. That’s why Infinity’s Cambodia, inaugurating its the state-of-the-art branch, 2011, one dose of flu vaccine tion will be set on the mezzanine consultants take the time to understand Norodom North branch on Dec. equipped with counters, ATMs (including hospital fees and level of Monument Books. your personal financial objectives. It helps 19. His Excellency Chea Chanto, and ample meeting space. charges) costs US$20 and two us to develop a tailored plan that is just governor of the National Bank of doses US$37. The vaccine targets In the Game Cambodia, officiated the launch Having a Ball seasonal flu B, H3N2, and H1N1. Football fans will notice a right for you. with the presentation of a licence. Dance the night away on Dec. Further promotions on examina- fresh face on the sidelines Dato’ Sri Nazir Razak, group 18 at the inaugural Phnom Penh tions and additional vaccines are as Phnom Penh Crown FC And because long-term relationships chief executive of CIMB Group Christmas Ball. In recognition of also currently available for Cam- welcomes its new head coach with our clients are important to us, we will always work hard to provide a great service, with regular updates on your investments and access to online information.

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The possibilities are endless 12 AsiaLIFE Cambodia AsiaLIFE Cambodia 13

Infinity_ASIAlife_December 10 Ad_HP.indd 1 11/9/2010 10:38:15 AM and US$1,500 to support their US$5, including US$1 contribu- projects. Nominations should tion towards dolphin conserva- HCMC Events In December be made by midnight on Dec. tion with each sale. 31. For more information, see Celebrate with Raffles www.wigcambodia.com or Christmas Family Day at nam Australia Programme. email indradevihopeaward@ For special ways to celebrate the the Saigon Zoo Vietnam’s top singer Pham wigcambodia.com. holidays, why not indulge in one Following the success of Anh Khoa will perform, as of the city’s most sophisticated last year’s Christmas Family will Melbourne-based outfit Kratie Eye Candy atmospheres? Raffles Hotel Le Day, street children charity Wagons and British band The Dolphin Men of Kratie 2011 Royal provides festive elegance Poussieres de Vie (Dust of Goober Gun. Children are calendar is now on sale at Mon- over the course of the holidays. Life) will host the event again catered for until 6.30pm with ument Books, Bohr’s Books, and On Christmas Eve, dinners will at the Saigon Zoo from 10am mini-golf, face painting, X- Blue Chilli Bar. Featuring pinup be served in Café Monivong on Dec. 12. There will be a Rock climbing, circus perfor- photography of men working in as well as in the Restaurant Le climbing wall, live entertain- mances, supervised football dolphin conservation in Kampi, Royal. On Christmas Day, the ment from Vietnamese rock and netball tournaments, just outside of Kratie, the calen- options are plenty—brunch at band 6789, a sideshow by the plus horse riding. Visit: www. dar raises awareness about the Café Monivong, high tea at the Ho Chi Minh circus and French loretofest.com for ticketing endangerment of rare Irawaddy Conservatory, and Christmas food booths plus an impressive information and prices. freshwater dolphins. Inspired Day dinner at Café Monivong capoeira demo and fire dance. by Cambodia Pride 2009, and Restaurant Le Royal. Ring All proceeds will go towards Yoga Teacher Training American restaurateur ‘Chicago in the New Year with dinner Poussieres de Vie. For details Internationally recognised as Joe’ designed the calendar to served in both restaurants and email: aleksandra.nicot@pous- a teacher of yoga teachers, showcase the men of Kratie alongside the pool on Dec. 31, sieresdevie.org. Hart Lazer leads workshops accompanied by educational followed by the Champagne and teacher training courses tidbits about dolphins. This party and disco in the historic Photographic Exhibit at throughout Canada, the US, year’s edition includes three of Elephant Bar. Reservations and Au Parc Mexico, Costa Rica, and In- last year’s most popular models more information can be sought Photographer Melissa Mer- dia. After 25 years devoted to and introduces nine new men. via 023 981 888 or email: reserva- ryweather’s exhibition ‘Display’ the practice and teaching of Calendars are priced around [email protected]. opens at Au Parc on Dec. 9 Iyengar Yoga under the tute- and runs through to Jan. 5. lage of Ramanand Patel, he is The exhibition celebrates the coming to HCM City to share Photo Phnom Penh curious juxtaposition of visually his craft. Classes will be of- overloaded Saigon and the col- fered on Friday Dec. 10 from lision between contrived and 6am to 9.30pm and from From Nov. 28 to Dec. 4, the and the musicians of Phare accidental found in the display 8am to 5.30pm on Saturday Photo Phnom Penh Festival Ponleu Selpak. of objects and artefacts. The and Sunday. Pay before Dec. will take place across the city. 3 to claim the US$320 Early Thursday 2 exhibition is arranged in two Organised by the Centre Cul- Bird rate. After that date, Phnom Penh News From the World: Latin parts—one that documents turel Français, this year’s festival tickets will be US$370. Visit: America at the Royal University the temples in District 5 and B Cafe Delano Building, St: 169 emphasises discovery and www.hartlazer.com or www. of Fine Arts, 6.30pm. Broad the other on the streets of the Corner 33 Bar & Lounge No. 33, Sothearos Blvd. exchange—exposure for a new saigonyoga.com for details overview of what’s happening Chinese Quarter and the area generation of Cambodian pho- or email Suzanne Vian on: Intercontinental Hotel-Lobby Bar Intercontinental Hotel in contemporary photography. around Ben Thanh Market. tographers, dialogue between [email protected]. IOC Cafe IOC Building, Monivong Blvd Asia and Europe, and interac- LoretoFest 2010 tion with the greater public. Friday 3 Java Cafe & Gallery No. 56, Sihanouk Blvd. LoretoFest 2010 will take Photographers, both foreign The Night of Europe-Asia at Download the latest issue of La Petenza Le Duo No. 17, St. 288 place on Saturday Dec. 11 and local, will exhibit in diverse the Royal University of Fine AsiaLIFE HCMC online at: from 2.30 pm till midnight. Living Room Cafe No. 09, St. 306 spaces throughout Phnom Arts, 6.30pm. Photographs www.asialifehcmc.com RMIT will host the fourth Naga World Hotel-Italian Restaurant Naga World Hotel Penh, beginning the end of taken by 12 photographers annual open-air fundraising November until Dec. 12. The from Europe and Asia during Scoop Bistro & Bar Mao Tse Toung Blvd. concert, with proceeds go- festival also includes a number a week in the framework of The Place Preah Sihanouk Blvd. ing towards the Loreto-Viet- of events in early December, the Intersection Project will be Time Cafe No. 422, St. 310 presented during this evening a remarkable opportunity to The Corner No. 12, St. 57 explore and engage with con- of images and music. temporary photography. Van’s Restaurant No. 05, St. 102 Saturday 4 Does your business need better Ongoing The Night of the Year along Sisowath Quay, 6.30pm. With The Image Boats along exposure around town? Siem Reap the support and partnership Sisowath Quay, 6.30pm. From of ‘Les Rencontres d’Arles,” The Central Cafe Corner of Old Market Nov. 27 to Dec. 4, floating ten large screens will present Hotel De La Paix Sivutha Blvd. screened images will navigate a vast panorama of photogra- the river each night for the King Cafe Corner of Kingdom Hotel phy from the press worldwide. duration of the festival. Royal Angkor-Sofitel Resort Vithei Charles de Gaulle All media produced in Cam- Wednesday 1 bodia will be on display at this Schools of Art and Photogra- final event of the festival. Advertise, and put the spotlight on your business. phy, a world tour, at the Royal For more information on Sihanoukville University of Phnom Penh, events and the list of exhibitions, Contact us at: [email protected] Cinderellas Cafe Ochheuteal Beach 6.30pm. Photo-concert, see www.ccf-cambodge.org or 012 960 076 musical creation from Louis or contact Magali Poivert at Sclavis, Dominique Pifarely, 012 905 128. www.AsiaLIFEGuide.com Koh Kong Aqua Sunset Koh Kong

14 AsiaLIFE Cambodia AsiaLIFE Cambodia 15 More Great Grapes on 240

Raise a glass to the recently opened Warehouse on Street 240. Broadening the selection of wine available in Phnom openings Penh, the company which has three outlets in Vietnam has branched out into Cambo- dia. Designed with an urban aesthetic, the shop presents shelves of wine alongside Cantonese on the Riverside unique lighting structures and exposed brickwork. Ware- house features 400 different Perched along the bank wines from around the world, of the Tonle Sap River, all imported exclusively and just north of Chaktomuk guaranteed as completely Theatre, the Ministry genuine. Prices vary from of Tourism info centre US$5 to US$2,000, depending now features Yi Sang on the vintage. Bottles can be Restaurant. An ideal purchased individually or in spot for tourists and bulk. Looking to pick up wine locals alike, the rooftop to serve with dinner? State of gazebo and spacious the art refrigeration ensures deck area look over the that there’s always a chilled river. Operated by the bottle ready to be uncorked. Almond Hotel, the Cam- Warehouse, 32 Street 240, bodian and Cantonese Tel: 023 986 641, Open Mon- cuisine is the creation of days through Saturdays from renowned Cambodian 9am to 9pm and Sundays from chef Luu Meng. Dim 11am to 7pm. sum and Cantonese noodle soup are served for breakfast, with à la carte options for lunch and dinner. The flavours are everything we would expect from chef Meng, with standouts that include an Oriental duck sandwich (US$3.80),‘Fish See The Prawn Do’ salad (US$5.80), and a braised lamb shank (US$12.80). Yi Sang Chinese Res- taurant, 128F Sothearos Boulevard, Tel: 012 814 488, Open daily from 6.30am to 11pm.

16 AsiaLIFE Cambodia AsiaLIFE Cambodia 17 Fine Shopping Konichiwa, Happa Style with Savings Facing the Russian Market, Esquisse may create a calmer Beans and More shopping experience than the hectic environment within— When it comes to coffee shops, it but the prices aren’t far off. seems that Phnom Penh just can’t The charming boutique, get enough of them these days. decorated in black and white, Right from its opening day, Brown is a welcome addition to the Coffee and Bakery has seen no neighbourhood’s shopping shortage of customers. Its popular- options. Though the clothing ity among expats and Cambodians is sourced from Vietnam comes as no surprise. Air-con, WiFi and Thailand, the Khmer- and a wide range of drinks and French owner selects pieces nibbles more than fulfil the essential according to her Parisian requirements of a desirable coffee sense of aesthetic. The array shop. The décor scheme of muted of prêt-a-porter features a colours, exposed brick, and diverse penchant for soft fabrics, furniture creates a pleasant environ- neutral shades, and careful ment to while away the hours. detailing. A black baby-doll There’s plenty of room for all, with dress with crochet trimming tables for the laptop-using freelancer is US$7.90, whereas a nautical and cosy nooks ideal for meetings striped t-shirt costs US$5.50. between friends or colleagues. Shoes are also on offer, Beyond basic coffee, there’s ice chai including navy-coloured tea latte (US$2.35) or mocha frappe flats with feminine cut-out (US$2.50). A glass case reveals detailing at US$8.90, as well plump almond croissants and other as a number of accessories. baked goods made daily, and for Reasonably priced French- more substantial eats there are salads inspired chic? Merci! and sandwiches priced around US$3. Esquisse, 146 Street 155, Brown Coffee and Bakery, 142 Street Tel: 011 506 210, Open daily 51, Tel: 012 606 089, Open daily from from 8am to 6pm. 6.30am to 9pm. Craving Okonomiyaki? cheese and bacon (US$3.25). Happa Restaurant, an Beef in apple-onion sauce offshoot of the popular (US$2) is another recom- The fourth branch of WEx- US$24.95. When it comes Sihanoukville eatery, is now mended dish, as well as port opened on Sihanouk to wardrobe standards, serving Japanese speciali- Yakisoba (US$3.25). Seafood Boulevard in early Novem- tank tops in bold hues from ties in Phnom Penh. Run by is fresh, driven over from ber. Having already estab- Aéropostale are US$3.95. a Japanese woman and her Sihanoukville every morn- lished outlets near the Rus- For men, a section of Ralph German husband, the restau- ing. The décor will be sian and Central Markets, Lauren button-down shirts rant focuses on Teppanyaki familiar to those who have the four-storey building present a rainbow of co- cooking, using a sizzling hot dined at the original seaside represents WExport’s big- lours for around US$25 and griddle and blending in tasty eatery, with white lanterns gest range of selection yet, beige gap corduroy trousers sauces. The menu pairs tra- strung from the ceiling, although only the first two run for US$19.95. Coming ditional Japanese fare with potted palms and wooden floors have products at the soon, a floor of children’s unique creations including a tables creating a smart yet moment. Savings average apparel will make it easy selection of Cambodian cui- relaxed atmosphere. up to fifty percent on most one-stop shopping for the sine. Okonomiyaki, a favou- Happa Restaurant, 17 items. In the women’s sec- whole family. rite among Japanese patrons, Street 278, Tel: 077 749 266, tion, H&M sweaters sell for WExport, 87 Sihanouk Blvd, is a concoction of cabbage Open daily from 11.30am to under US$20 and pinstripe Tel: 023 997 650, Open daily and varied toppings, such as 2.30pm and from 5pm to 10pm. denim skirts by Levi’s for from 8am to 10pm.

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