Top 2 The Inside: Pg. 16 LIZ’S CHALLENGE/3 AMERICAN EAGLE FLIES HIGH/3 0 WWD N.Y. Fa Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 3, 2005• $2.00 WWDTHURSDAYshion ShowsList Sportswear Dream Works PARIS — Move over, Tilda, Tori’s in town. That’s right. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of Viktor & Rolf, who were inspired by Tilda Swinton a few seasons back, have a new redheaded muse, and her name is Tori Amos. The singer-songwriter performed during their fall show, which had a fanciful bedtime-story theme, but nevertheless featured plenty of beautiful, wearable clothes. Here, with Amos, a dreamy example: a fluid jacket and pants, worn with an elaborately ruffled blouse. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 11. Luxe’s Winning Strategy: Neiman Marcus Profits Climb 19.3% in Quarter By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — Whatever intrigue is going on behind the scenes at Neiman Marcus Group, its bottom line just keeps looking better and better. The luxury retailer said Wednesday that income for the quarter ended Jan. 29 jumped 19.3 percent to $70.6 million, or $1.43 a diluted share, from $59.2 million, or $1.21, in the year-ago quarter. Excluding a $7.5 million impact of favorable settlements associated with previous state tax filings in the second quarter of 2004, adjusted earnings per diluted share were $1.06 in the quarter. See Neiman’s, Page20 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAYWWD.COM Sportswear FASHION The Paris ready-to-wear shows continued, as Viktor & Rolf, Lagerfeld ™ 6 Gallery and Jean Paul Gaultier strutted their stuff down the runways. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Neiman Marcus Group saw second-quarter profits rise 19 percent to $70.6 THE BOHO DISTRICT 1 million, as sales gained 7.7 percent to $1.13 billion from $1.05 billion. Today’s bohemian fashion trend has uptown appeal Liz Claiborne turned in fourth-quarter profits of $82.7 million, a 13 percent 3 increase, but couldn’t keep Wall Street happy, as the stock dropped. For years, the word “bohemian” conjured up DISH: Novel Denim goes private…People’s Liberation for denim…No leg, even in capris. They look more like a culotte or 12 carbon copy here…The ongoing legal battle over Seven. a decidedly downtown image. Today, that same a gaucho.” word paired with a rather unexpected one defines a Silhouettes aside, there would be no discussion ACTIVE: Spyder Active Sports, with the backing of Apax Partners, is readying for major expansion in the ski industry and beyond. pervasive, yet upscale, trend in modern fashion: chic. of Bohemian Chic without the word “natural.” 15 “We’re seeing the influences of Bohemian Chic “Even accessories have a natural feel, like the cotton EYE: The presence of Tom Ford helped make Saks Fifth Avenue’s Unforgettable on all the runways and in all the top magazines,” espadrille,” Stoner reports. And of course, garments 24 Evening a night to remember…Staging “Dirty Rotten Scoundrels.” attests Linda DeFranco, women’s will also be predominantly Classified Advertisements ...... 22-23 wear trend forecaster with Cotton created from natural fibers. Incorporated. “It’s a global yet According to the Monitor, 61% of To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual’s name. earthy look, and it’s certainly more female respondents said they were willing to pay more for WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 refined than anything we’ve seen FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. in recent years.” natural fibers such as cotton. VOLUME 189, NO. 45. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional “Bohemian Chic is all in the Stoner adds, “I love a crinkle issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL detailing and styling,” relates cotton blouse with a tiered soft OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Joanne Stoner, founder of peasant skirt; a very natural look.” Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Edressme.com, an online destination DeFranco also points out the Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at for fashionable garments. “It’s cotton top’s importance in boho additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration a look that is very chic and fashion. “You can buy a couture No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR sophisticated for right now.” cotton blouse in almost any SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR So just what are these heralded color, and easily work that into DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new bohemian favorites that resonate “Boho Chic is an eclectic mix of your existing wardrobe for an subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production with today’s female shopper? updated feel.” correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, ethnic and vintage-feel items.” please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild “Tiered peasant skirts, longer — Tracy Reese, And look for colors to play an magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully tunics, kimono style tops, fuller important role in this trend as screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive designer these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. pants and skirts,” Stoner notes. well. Shares trend forecaster WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED “Boho Chic is an eclectic mix of ethnic and DeFranco, ”We have a collection of colors we call MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART vintage-feel items,” asserts Tracy Reese, who designs ‘Travel Hybrid,’ which encompass all of the colors WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED an eponymous collection in addition to the Plenty you see occurring in the natural world: burnt TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. line, which is sold at upscale stores. oranges, greens and deep browns.” Agrees Wenlan Chai, designer of Twinkle, a New Chai from Twinkle adds the influence of York-based fashion collection, “Modern Boho is an colors from the ocean and semi-precious interesting mix. It’s a fascinating interpretation of stones on Boho fashion. “There are shades of teal In Brief things that are familiar but new.” blue to sea blue; we are also using variations of Familiarity is a good thing when it comes to burgundies and greens, along with rich chocolate ● ALL IN THE FAMILY: Family Dollar Stores Inc. plans to invest apparel shopping for one in three women. According browns,” she reports. about $60 million and create 465 jobs at the Griffiss Business & to Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™, Prints also take center stage, which lends a global, Technology Park in Rome, N.Y. Construction is expected to begin 36.3% of female respondents said that they planned yet still natural feel to the Bohemian Chic trend. in late spring for the discount chain’s new Northeast regional dis- less changes in their apparel in the Adds Chai, “We’re seeing prints tribution center. Family Dollar Stores has added more than 3,000 coming months. This figure is up Willing to Pay More for with trees, birds and flowers.” stores in the last 10 years and more than 2,000 in the past five six percentage points from the Natural Fibers Such as Cotton “There are plenty of earthy years, said Charles S. Gibson Jr., executive vice president. prints like batiks and other 30.3% of women making that ● claim a year earlier. 2003 2004 +/- ethnic prints that evoke Africa WRISTBAND FAKES GRABBED: The owners of Endzone, a sports collectibles store, agreed to pay $12,000 to the Lance “For most women, the Bohemian Yes 61% 58% +3.0 and India in fashion,” relates No 35% 34% -1.0 Armstrong Foundation and $7,000 in civil penalties and costs to Chic trend allows them to pull DeFranco. Reese agrees, “Definitely New York State for selling counterfeit Livestrong wristbands as items that they’ve known and India and Africa, but there is an part of a settlement with Attorney General Eliot Spitzer. Between loved, and incorporate them into their current Asian influence as well, and we’re mixing it in with November and January, some 5,700 fake Livestrong wristbands wardrobes,” DeFranco explains.“That’s truly important our traditional Western pieces.” were sold at the Endzone at the Marketplace Mall in Rochester, to today’s fashion, yet value-oriented, consumer.” However, prints and colors don’t stand alone. N.Y., and the Endzone II store and kiosk at Greece Ridge Center Skirts are certainly one staple that seem to be “There’s plenty of embellishment,” Reese continues. in Greece, N.Y. The fakes were sold for $2.49 each instead of the making a statement this season. Notes designer “But it’s not glitzy or sparkly, it’s more refined.” $1 charged for the Livestrong wristband available through the Reese, “Long skirts are free and easy, and have a According to Twinkle’s Chai, “All the beading, Texas-based Lance Armstrong Foundation. Endzone failed to in- relaxed yet exotic feeling.” embroidery and motifs are Russian influenced, form customers that the wristbands were unauthorized reproduc- which gives it a more exotic and easy feel.” tions and that the proceeds were not going to cancer research. Anna Lamstein, manager of Sybele, a boutique in Under the agreement, Harry Bagdasarian and Thomas Daly, own- midtown Manhattan, adds, “Skirts in all colors, And just because the word “bohemian” appears in ers of the stores and kiosk, are barred from selling any item asso- particularly white, seem to be important. Our this trend, the look is anything but thrown together ciated with the foundation without permission. customers are coming in asking for skirts along with or sloppy. “It’s very studied,” asserts Lamstein, the dresses for everyday wear. It’s all about things that are boutique manager. “Women are very carefully pulling ● DILLON MOVES UP: Fairchild Publications, parent of WWD, very feminine.” this look together.” said Wednesday that Eva Dillon will move over from Jane maga- The skirt truly seems to be reclaiming its Although designer Reese loves the Bohemian Chic zine to become vice president and publisher of Cookie, the new importance in women’s wardrobes in the last look, she hesitates to call it the trend-of-the-moment. lifestyle magazine for affluent parents set to launch in year-and-a-half. According to the Monitor, in the “I like to think of it as one of those things that’s November. Dillon has been publisher of Jane since 1999, and first half of 2004, skirts displaced other bottomswear not atrend but my style,” she says. “Sometimes was named vice president in March 2000. Prior to joining it’s stronger than others, like now, but it’s Fairchild, she held positions at Glamour, YM and TV Guide. categories. Among the major retail channels, Mary Berner, Fairchild’s president and chief executive officer, department, specialty and chain stores posted always timeless.” said a new publisher for Jane will be named next week. double-digit growth in unit sales (17.5%) and dollar This story is one in a series of articles based on findings sales (13.7%) for skirts. Forecasts Stoner, “Look for from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ fuller skirts to be important.” tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, A fuller cut will also apply to other silhouettes as each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the Corrections well, say fashion experts. “There’s definitely a more American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes A pair of tights was incorrectly captioned to Levante on page 20 generous silhouette for this season,” Cotton Incorporated’s and behavior regarding clothing, on Monday. They should have been credited to Jonathan Aston. DeFranco shares. “Trousers are relaxed and the hem appearance, fashion, fiber selection and ● ● ● is slightly flared in a boot-cut fashion. There's a fuller many other timely, relevant subjects. Renée Zellweger’s jewelry at the Oscars was by Cartier. The credit was omitted in Tuesday’s WWD. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 3 WWD.COM Liz Profits Rise but Wall Street Unsatisfied By Evan Clark percent in 2004 and are projected to de- from its core strategies or stretch to cline by mid- to high-single digits this year. make a deal that was too risky, though. NEW YORK — Liz Claiborne Inc. turned in She said the forecast is not as robust as “The question then becomes, what is the fourth-quarter profits of $82.7 million, or 75 some on Wall Street would have liked. definition of financial attractiveness?” cents a diluted share, a 13.1 percent in- “Management painted a conservative Historically, financial attractiveness crease, but couldn’t keep Wall Street happy. picture,” said Black. “The market took it for Claiborne’s acquisitions meant that Anxious, perhaps, because of the con- literally and isn’t giving them any credit they would add to earnings within a tinued sales decline of the core Liz for their diversification. I’m really sur- year, he said. A bigger deal, however, Claiborne brand and 2005 forecasts, in- prised at the reaction.” might not be accretive within a year. vestors traded shares of the firm down Without the aid of any future acquisi- “Stay tuned,” Charron said. “A lot of $2.34 or 5.4 percent to $41.37 on the New tions, Claiborne is looking for earnings of rules are being rewritten. It’s going to be York Stock Exchange Wednesday. $2.96 to $3.02 a share in 2005 on a 6 to 8 a very interesting space to operate in for “The retail climate is currently chal- percent increase in sales. The profit the next two or three years.” lenging, and we will continue to plan our forecast includes a planned accounting Many of the rules of the fashion game businesses conservatively, focusing on change and a move away from stock op- have already changed since Charron solid execution and disciplined invento- tions that is expected to cut earnings by joined Claiborne in 1994, as can be seen ry management,” chairman and chief ex- 10 to 12 cents a share. Wall Street was by the sheer breadth and diversity of the ecutive officer Paul Charron said in a looking for earnings of $3.13. firm’s portfolio of businesses. Juicy statement. However, it’s hard to envision Paul Couture, which had sales of $47 million The quarter’s profits compared with Claiborne making it through the year Charron when Claiborne acquired it in 2002, is year-ago earnings of $73.1 million, or 66 without some sort of deal. now nearly four times larger, opened its cents. Sales for the three months ended Traditionally one of the most acquisi- throughout the industry ultimately take. first store in Las Vegas in October and is Jan. 1 jumped 16.1 percent to $1.2 billion tive companies in the apparel industry Together, May and Federated account for pulling in sales there in excess of $1,000 compared with $1.03 billion a year earlier. — snatching up the likes of Enyce, Juicy 22 percent of the firm’s business. a square foot. Claiborne also added 19 For the year, net income rose 12.1 per- Couture and Ellen Tracy in recent years “There’s no question in my mind that new Sigrid Olsen stores last year and 20 cent to $313.6 million, or $2.85 a diluted —Claiborne did not make any acquisi- this megamerger…will stimulate a con- more are on the way this year. share, on a 9.2 percent increase in sales tions in 2004 and made just one small solidation on the wholesaler side,” “The bottom line is that we have shift- to $4.63 billion. deal this year, buying C&C California for Charron said on a conference call with ed away from American department “There were questions about the Liz an initial price of $28 million in January. Wall Street. “In some cases, it will be stores frankly as their share of the total brand again, downsizing it further and I The planned combination of consolidation out of necessity.” market has declined,” said Charron. think people didn’t want that to happen,” Federated Department Stores and May Companies, even very large ones, are “They’re still a large and profitable por- said analyst Jennifer Black of Jennifer Department Stores, which was made offi- going to look to gain both scale and sub- tion of our business. Barring some sector Black & Associates. cial on Monday, might influence the ac- stance through deal-making. turnaround, they will probably become Sales of the core Liz brand dropped 18.8 quisition path Claiborne and vendors Charron said Claiborne wouldn’t stray less important to us.” Ann Taylor Stores Taps Two American Eagle Sees To Fill Out Executive Ranks Double-Digit Growth By David Moin By Meredith Derby said: “For competitive reasons, we NEW YORK — Ann Taylor Stores Corp. has promoted don’t expect to provide additional two insiders to top-level product jobs, completing NEW YORK — Healthy full-priced details about the new business until new management structures at the divisions. selling propelled American Eagle we’re ready to launch.” At the Ann Taylor Stores division, Adrienne Outfitters Inc.’s strong fourth-quarter The business is expected to cater Lazarus was named executive vice president of mer- and year-end profits, and boosted to the post-college crowd, in compari- chandising and design. Donna Noce was promoted to sales to double-digit percentage gains. son with the American Eagle concept the same position at Ann Taylor Loft. Both report to The company, however, remained that is geared toward teens and Kay Krill, president of Ann Taylor Stores Corp. tight-lipped about its new concept, say- young adults. O’Donnell said These and other key personnel changes recently ing only that it will hit the market with American Eagle has assembled a sep- come with efforts to lift the performance at Ann three to five test stores during fall 2006, arate team to lead its new concept be- Taylor Stores, help redefine its customer and differ- later than its initial target of spring cause “we do not want distractions or entiate the brand from the sister Ann Taylor Loft 2006. In addition, the company said it crossover between the two.” brand. While Loft has shown consistently strong per- is exploring international expansion. Former Polo Ralph Lauren and formances, Ann Taylor has been a drain on profits and For the three months ended Jan. Gap executive Ken Pilot last month sales growth. 29, income increased to $101.2 mil- was named president of the new Krill, considered the force behind the rise of Ann lion, or $1.32 a diluted share, from concept, Chuck Chupein was ap- Taylor Loft, was bumped up in November to president of Kay Krill has put together a new team $35.4 million, or 49 cents, in the pointed senior vice president and the corporation, from president of Ann Taylor Loft. Debra at Ann Taylor. same year-ago quarter. The company chief operating officer and James Berit was promoted to executive vice president of plan- posted earnings from continuing op- Olsen was tapped as vice president ning and allocation for both divisions. erations of $107.2 million, or $1.40 a and general merchandise manager Last January, Jerome Jessup resigned as executive vice president of the Ann Taylor Stores, diluted share, beating analysts’ con- of men’s. In January, American but on Monday, Muriel Gonzalez, a former senior executive at Bergdorf Goodman, joins as exec- sensus estimate of $1.39. That com- Eagle said two former Abercrombie utive vice president and chief marketing officer, a new position encompassing both divisions. pared with a profit of $43.2 million, executives, Michele Donnan Martin “Basically, these are new positions in the organization to support and drive the overall busi- or 60 cents, in the 2003 quarter. and Charles Martin, will lead prod- ness,’’ Krill said in an interview on the promotions of Lazarus and Noce, who she called “prod- Earnings from continuing operations uct design and development. uct leaders” for their respective divisions. “There will not be a division head for each brand, like exclude charges related to the dispo- Separately, the company said I was, or like Jerome was.” sition of the company’s 109-store February same-store sales rose 32.4 There are also two leaders over the store organizations, Brian Lynch, senior vice president at Bluenotes chain, which it sold to percent, leading it to raise first-quar- Ann Taylor Stores, and Michele Patton, senior vice president at Ann Taylor Loft. Canadian retailer Michael Gold in ter earnings estimates to 52 to 54 “This is a new structure,” Krill said. “It really allows me to lead both divisions in a more December for an undisclosed sum. cents — ahead of analysts’ estimates hands-on way, which is what the business needs. Nobody is leaving and we are done” with Sales for the quarter rose 37.4 of 47 cents — from a projection of 43 the reorganizing. percent to $674 million from $490.6 to 45 cents. Full-year 2005 earnings Lazarus joined the Ann Taylor Stores brand in 1991 as an assistant merchant, switched to million, while same-store sales are seen increasing in the double Loft as a merchandising manager and rose to senior vice president and general merchan- jumped 28.6 percent. American digits, Laura Weil, chief financial of- dise manager. In October 2004, she assumed that role at Ann Taylor Stores. Eagle noted that it is reviewing its ficer, said. Analysts’ consensus is for Noce joined the company in 1996 as a merchandising vice president of separates, dresses and accounting practices for leasing and $3.30 in 2005. suits for Ann Taylor Stores. Four years later, she became vice president of merchandising and anticipates restating previous annu- For the year, American Eagle said planning for anntaylor.com, which she developed. In 2002, she shifted to Ann Taylor Factory al and quarterly financial state- income was $214 million, or $2.85 Stores, overseeing the merchandising, planning, store planning, visual merchandising and store ments, though the earnings impact is cents, from $60 million, or 83 cents, operations, and eventually rising to senior vice president. expected to be immaterial. in 2003. Earnings from continuing J. Patrick Spainhour, chairman and chief executive officer of the corporation, will take Shares of American Eagle hit a operations were $224.9 million, or over Noce’s factory store duties until her successor is found. He remains under pressure to new 52-week high on Wednesday, clos- $2.99, compared with $83.5 million, reverse the retailer’s fortunes. ing at $58.87, or up 6.5 percent, in trad- or $1.16, in 2003. Annual sales in The corporation has forecast a fourth-quarter loss of 14 to 18 cents a diluted share com- ing on the New York Stock Exchange. 2004 soared 31.1 percent to $1.88 bil- pared with previous guidance of breakeven to a loss of 4 cents. For the year, earnings per As for its new concept, James lion from $1.44 billion, while same- share are projected to fall between 89 and 93 cents on a diluted basis compared with previ- O’Donnell, chief executive officer, store sales were up 21.4 percent. ous estimates of $1.04 to $1.08. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 WWD.COM Valentino Walks Down the Aisle Clearly Wonderbra Hoopla at Macy’s By Rosemary Feitelberg By Karyn Monget

NEW YORK — Over the years Valentino has NEW YORK — Hollywood stylist Philip flirted with creating a wedding dress col- Bloch succinctly explained the Wonderbra lection in addition to the one-off couture mantra amid the fanfare for its latest in- gowns he does for stars and socialites. carnation at Macy’s Herald Square. Now he’s ready to take the plunge. “The great thing is you can get this red Starting in December, more brides-to- carpet cleavage without going through the be than ever will have the option of wearing pain and torture of going under the a Valentino gown. Valentino signed a licens- knife,” Bloch said ing deal Monday with the Spanish Pronovias Bloch, whose clients include Halle Society to have Pronovias produce and dis- Berry, Nicole Kidman, Sandra Bullock, tribute a bridal collection designed by Salma Hayek, Jada Pinkett Smith and Valentino in his atelier in Rome. Vivica A. Fox, was referring to the new “Now women will be able to marry in my Clearly Wonderbra collection of cleavage- creations, which has been a dream of mine enhancing bras for which he is a for some time. Now it has become a reality,” spokesman. said Valentino in a statement. The Clearly Wonderbra line, which Valentino has built a name for himself features bras in fashion colors with in the world of wedding gowns for dress- clear-front insets, was unveiled ing a select few like Jennifer Lopez for Wednesday. The event at Macy’s sixth- her nuptials with Cris Judd, French ac- floor lingerie department mirrored the tress Clotilde Courau to Prince hype with which the Wonderbra name Emanuele Filiberto and Jackie Kennedy has become synonymous since it was in- Stylist to the stars Philip Bloch and Wonderbra to Aristotle Onassis. troduced in Brinks armored trucks and models at Macy’s. The designer will continue to create by parachute in the U.S. market by Sara his couture bridal gowns for select Lee Corp. in 1994. annual budget for the Extravagance col- clients. This time the hoopla was focused on lection is in excess of $5 million, Sara Lee Based in Barcelona, Pronovias is a 41- Bloch, a dozen male models holding black officials would not give a budget for year-old company with licensing deals Clearly Wonderbras in clear Lucite boxes Clearly Wonderbra. The $170 million for Badgley Mischka, Elie by Elie Saab A sketch from the new Valentino with signature yellow ribbons and five fe- Wonderbra label is one of a $4.5 billion and Emanuel Ungaro wedding dresses. bridal collection. male models, including Maja, portfolio of brands Sara Lee said it plans Alberto Palatchi, founder and presi- Wonderbra’s spokesmodel. to spin off as part of an independent ap- dent of Pronovias, said, “For Pronovias, it is an honor to have signed a contract Maja kicked off a multimillion-dollar parel company. with Valentino, who has dressed the most beautiful and famous weddings for advertising and marketing campaign in Bloch presented an Oscar-inspired years. We are confident that it will be a very profitable collaboration, which will Times Square in October, launching the fashion show with Wonderbra-clad mod- unite the art of Valentino and our specialization in the bridal field.” Extravagance collection of embroidered els wearing slinky evening gowns. He Broadening the designer’s offerings and revitalizing the U.S. business have black push-up numbers with the tag line, said he selected the evening gowns and been a priority since Marzotto SpA acquired Valentino in May 2002. U.S. sales re- “Yes, They Are, Thank You.” While the accessories to wear with the Wonderbras portedly account for 25 percent of the company’s business. because, “I wanted to show how real In an interview with WWD last year, Graziano de Boni, president and chief ex- people can get that red carpet cleavage. ecutive officer of Valentino Inc. and Marzotto USA, the parent company’s Most of the dresses are by ABS, in the American branch, said going into wedding gowns was “a natural” for Valentino. $200 to $300 range. Each outfit with ac- Last April the company dabbled in the American bridal market by testing three cessories was under $500. I really didn’t flower-inspired styles, priced from $3,850 to $8,200, in its Madison Avenue store. pay much attention to labels. It was more The new bridal collection will be unveiled in July in Barcelona at Pronovias’ an- about the pricing.” nual fashion show. The event attracts 1,000 customers and 200 members of the media. The Clearly Wonderbra line will be Valentino wedding dresses will be sold in Valentino boutiques, select featured with Maja in “Red Carpet” store Pronovias stores and other exclusive boutiques. Within the next five years, the events over the next two weeks at Foley’s wedding business is expected to generate $39.3 million in sales, based on current in Houston, Carson Pirie Scott in Chicago, exchange rates. Macy’s in Miami and San Francisco and Michele Norsa, managing director and ceo of Valentino, said, “This contract Robinson’s-May in Los Angeles, said follows a strategic line of the business. It also represents an extraordinary oppor- THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY Diane Ridgway-Cross, brand manager for tunity that gives young women all over the world the dream of marrying in a Clearly Wonderbra is the newest introduction. Wonderbra. Valentino gown.”

duroy, silk cashmere, stretch cotton and cotton A fall look velvet. Italy accounts for 75 percent of the pro- from Bill Kellwood Execs Spice Up Bill Burns duction, while Asia manufactures the rest. Burns. Wholesale price points range from $77 to $239. By Marc Karimzadeh perspective. Ultimately, it was very exciting.” “Before, it was a short jacket, a long jack- The designer twisted and tweaked items in et, a classic pant, a clean skirt and a novelty NEW YORK — Barbara Cavanagh had an the following spring collection, but offered the skirt and it was all done in one fabric. At the epiphany of sorts in September. complete makeover for fall, which Kellwood is very most, you’ll now see two pieces in one En route from Paris to Première Vision, it presenting to specialty stores. The collection fabric and typically we won’t even show became clear to Kellwood New England’s consists of items such as cashmere and silk ar- them together. We will show them as items president that the bridge customer and her gyle V-neck sweaters, stretch silk georgette and options,” said Stacy Esser, vice presi- shopping patterns had changed enormously bow-tie blouses, leopard flocked stretch tweed dent of sales. “[Before] it was very specific over the past few years, and she came to a skirts, cotton velvet jeans, silk cashmere wraps to career woman, whereas now it speaks to single conclusion: Kellwood’s Bill Burns di- and crushed tie-dye velvet blazers. the many lives.” vision needed a makeover. It’s a far cry from the Bill Burns the cus- A Kellwood spokeswoman declined to dis- So she literally turned to David Landauer, tomer has come to know over the years. The close Bill Burns’ current wholesale volume; Bill Burns’ vice president and creative direc- label stood for classic, men’s wear-inspired however, industry sources peg it between $10 tor accompanying her in the car, and an- tailoring with plenty of structured suits and million and $12 million. For spring, the line nounced that she was shifting gears and jackets, pants and skirts, all cut from the same was picked up by 50 specialty stores, includ- changing the creative direction of the line, cloth to offer women ways to coordinate their ing Cameron Clothing Co. in Raleigh, N.C., effective immediately. separates. Its mission statement was to give Maison Weiss in Jackson, Miss., and “I said to David, ‘We will have to do this and women a look for the boardroom and very few Beginnings in Scarsdale, N.Y. Esser said she if we don’t do this, then we are going to have to other places. Bill Burns, like many others in is projecting to be in about 300 specialty close the doors.’ I made the decision then and the bridge segment, seemed stuck in that stores for fall, adding that the average there,” Cavanagh recalled. “I looked at him mantra. But as the customer was becoming wholesale order is about $12,000. and said, ‘We need to start all over again and less traditional in her fashion choices, looking “We are choosing our retail partners very change the whole concept of this line.’” for more items and shunning the standard cautiously, selectively,” Esser said. “We feel the Landauer, who was caught off guard, quick- bridge resources for contemporary lines, the specialty store market is extremely important ly adjusted to the new game plan. “I had 20 time seemed ripe for a Bill Burns makeover. and we want to make sure our retail partners minutes to absorb it and then I had to run into For fall, Landauer was inspired by vintage project the image of the line consistently.” fabric appointments thinking, ‘What am I look- prints he found in the Fashion Institute of As for future line expansions, Cavanagh ing for?’” he said. “It was hysterical. I had to Technology archives. He assembled a collec- said the label will venture into accessories

process it and look at everything from a fresh tion of separates in fabrics such as silk cor- eventually, but there are no imminent plans. PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO ©D.YURMAN 2005

NEW YORK BAL HARBOUR AMERICANA MANHASSET ATLANTA HOUSTON SOUTH COAST PLAZA DAVIDYURMAN.COM 6 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 Sleeping Bea

Viktor & Rolf: Breathtaking. Yes, the underlying idea was a bedtime story revealed in fantastical bedding-cum- headgear. And yes, Viktor paris Horsting and Rolf Snoeren treated their guests to an enchanting performance by Tori Amos. But the heart and soul of their fall Viktor & Rolf collection was fashion, period. Fashion with the proverbial capital “F,” that is — the kind we all long for when boarding the plane, the kind that fuels the industry, the kind only a very few designers can deliver. This show was a joy to watch, filled with clothes that should be a joy, as well, for retailers to sell and for women to wear. The theme sprung from the designers’ desire to work with Amos and to stage a show antithetical to fall’s fragrance-launching extravaganza. “After last season, we saw the need to do something intimate, private,” Horsting said. “The idea was a bedtime story because bed is the ultimate safe place. Good things happen in bed. You rest, heal, make love.” Touché. But it takes rare multitiered talent to translate touchy-feely nighty-night into a stunningly chic fashion event. Horsting and Snoeren spun the fittings of a lady’s bedchamber, all lacy, frilled, down-filled and quilted, the trance-inducing romance of Amos’ crimped red locks and a wealth of amazing tailoring into a magnificent moment. A comforter’s stitching emerged in quilting on a skirt, and the comforter itself in a dreamy ingenue bridal gown, with embroidered red script radiating “I love you.” Strands of pearls made their way from jewel box to shoes, and a bedside rose became the lone color on an alluring corseted gown. But make no mistake. The real brilliance here was the transformation of an out- there theme into a foil for beautiful, remarkably wearable clothes. So, while some girls were done up with the mood-setting pillow accoutrement, others wore gorgeous shirts with varying degrees of frills, always with simple black pants. And there were fabulous coats, parkas, suits, a back-draped trench. (Ditto, by the way, the song Amos wrote just for the occasion. It may have been based on the Book of Solomon, but she managed to work in the line, “I need this potion, this flower bomb.”) It all played like the kind of dream you don’t want to end. Only waking up is even better, because then you can get dressed. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 7 WWD.COM Fashion Scoops

SNOW WHITE: Karl Lagerfeld may have executive officer of Hilfiger, Ann Acierno, had an early call Wednesday morning president of new business development, for his Lagerfeld Gallery show at 10:30. and George Kolasa, senior vice president But, of course, the busiest man in of global marketing at the Lagerfeld fashion had accomplished plenty before division, all in attendance. that. Awakening to a blanket of fresh snow, a rarity in Paris, Lagerfeld OH BABY: Stella McCartney will be auties grabbed his cameras and headed out to playing hooky from her fashion show in his garden to document it. “There’s Paris this morning, having decided to nothing more beautiful than snow on a stay in London with her six-day-old son, landscape like that,” he said backstage. Miller Willis. But her sister, Mary, will be “But you have to do it right away, there to represent the McCartney clan. because after three hours, it’s dirty.” THE RIO WORLD: Riccardo Never mind the Vanessa Tisci Brown subzero and temperatures Diana outside. A ballroom Ross at the Crillon hotel throbbed with hot Brazilian beats to kick off a year of Brazil in France. Brazilian designers showed up in force, including Alexandre Herchcovitch. There was an Italian partying in the crowd, too: Givenchy’s new designer, Riccardo Tisci, HAIR APPARENT: who was awed by the view of snow falling “The hair is here,” over Place de la Concorde. “Who wouldn’t one guest declared want to move here?” Tisci said. at the MAC party Tuesday night CHILD’S PLAY: You never know whom when guest of you might meet backstage at a fashion honor Diana Ross show. To wit: At Andrew Gn Wednesday Marisa morning was Kifu Augousti who, at 10, Berenson entered the room. Certainly, there was must be the world’s youngest handbag no missing the music legend, especially designer. “I sell them to Barneys New in an updo, as she made her way York,” the youngster mentioned through the Relais Plaza restaurant. casually. Her mother, Ria, explained Encountering Betty Catroux on the way to that Kifu’s design career “just sort of her table, Ross held out her hand and happened. She started drawing at five. said, “How are you? I saw you at the Now she’s got this following.” Oh, and show today,” referring to the Christian Kifu is a poet, too. Her latest line of Dior show that morning. Catroux, the totes is decorated with verse. nucleus of the Yves Saint Laurent tribe, couldn’t hide her puzzlement, but just GIRL’S BEST FRIENDS: In played along. “We had dinner 20 years an anti-Cinderella move, ago,” Catroux explained later. “She even Gwen Stefani slipped sang for us in the car. It was fabulous.” into Vivienne Ross didn’t sing for her supper, but a Westwood’s diamond budding recording artist, Vanessa Brown, launch party Tuesday did. Also paying homage to Ross were night just as the clock designers Loulou de la Falaise, Christian Vivienne struck midnight. “The Louboutin, Victoire de Castellane and Westwood first designer outfit I Nathalie Rykiel. Marisa Berenson, whose and Tilda ever bought was friendship with Ross goes back to Swinton Westwood,” said the Berenson’s L.A. days, said she’s still pop star, before being awed by the diva’s presence. “She’s whisked away by her extraordinary to watch, and there’s bodyguards. Tilda nothing like that voice,” Berenson said. Swinton, just back from New Zealand, where WHERE’S TOMMY?: Curious showgoers she was filming “The wondered Wednesday why Tommy Chronicles of Narnia: Gwen Stefani Hilfiger wasn’t at the Lagerfeld Gallery The Lion, the Witch & fashion show in Paris, considering how the Wardrobe,” was sporting a new excited Hilfiger was about his company whiter-than-white coif. Apparently, she’s buying Lagerfeld’s business. But Hilfiger the good witch. “You can leave it to had a legitimate excuse. Vivienne Westwood to make safety pins so “I just got back from Elmira,” said the expensive,” quipped Swinton. designer Wednesday. “My mother’s sister passed away. She helped my mother raise MISSING PERSONS REPORT: Although all nine of her children.” Hilfiger said he turnout for Paris Fashion Week is better was supposed to fly to Paris Tuesday than Milan, a few front-row and catwalk night, but instead went to his aunt’s regulars have been missing in action. funeral that afternoon. “I was ready to go The absence of Neiman Marcus Group’s and was very excited,” he said. Burt Tansky has been noted, but it turns Hilfiger said his 84-year-old aunt, out he is slated to arrive today, according who lived with his mother, died of to Neiman’s Joan Kaner, who ruled out lymphoma. “We thought she was really any conspiracy theories. “There are no strong six months ago, but the past secrets that I know of,” she quipped few weeks she began deteriorating. Wednesday. Vanity Fair’s Elizabeth She passed out over the weekend, and my mother took her to the hospital Saltzman, deluged with Oscar duties and where she died Sunday,” he said. “She shoots, also has been absent since was like a second mother to me.” Milan, but is slated to arrive Friday. Although Hilfiger couldn’t make it, Meanwhile, IMG model Daria Werbowy, his top brass was well-represented at usually walking in every big show, has the show, with David Dyer, chief been down and out with the flu. PHOTOS GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE STEPHANE FEUGURE, GIOVANNI BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 Lagerfeld Gallery Coat Tale Lagerfeld Gallery Jean Paul Gaultier

Lagerfeld Gallery Jean Paul Gaultier

paris

Lagerfeld Gallery: How rich is too rich? accessorizing with electronic- a big cutaway shawl-collared number, while offering Fashion’s most well-heeled employee will let us ticker belts, spelling out the label a more rugged take on sportif in a sturdy, short know when he finds out. Then again, maybe he for all to see. tie-front coat. won’t. “I’m from Hamburg, and you don’t talk about That flourish punctuated a savvy Conversely, Lagerfeld approached evening with money,” Karl Lagerfeld is fond of saying. But he will collection. Though he’s renowned as a plenty of flou in gowns with a satiny shimmer or the talk business, and it’s no secret that he’s not satisfied thought-a-minute man, here, Lagerfeld organized a few allure of chiffon. Either way, they came pleated, twisted with merely being the great god of Chanel, mastermind key motifs into something resembling an orderly presen- and draped in back, in dusty shades of blue and of one of the most remarkable runs in fashion history. tation. He opened with tailoring — lean, racy jackets salmon. As with day, a woman could find plenty of No, Lagerfeld wants more. Hence his Fendi peeve, his over pants and an assortment of sumptuous coats often wearable options, if only the clothes make it into the H&M one-hit wonder and his determination to grow lavished with fur. The look was quite rich, and it’s now right venues. And the way Karl sees it, that’s now the Lagerfeld Gallery into a major global business. up to the Hilfiger camp to figure out those pesky details job of Tommy & Co. As he said in December: “I can “I have an appeal for large distribution,” the designer of affordable production. make an Empire dress, but I can’t make an empire.” said back in December, just after the sale of his Lagerfeld When Lagerfeld switched into casual gear, he dis- trademarks to Tommy Hilfiger — the start, he hopes, of played a particular affinity for shearling over shirts Jean Paul Gaultier: Jean Paul Gaultier played it tough another serious empire. But serious need not mean and jeans, while proving the combo anything but one- and tender on Tuesday while flaunting his fine-honed humorless. Hence, his novel approach to brand-building: note. Thus, he indulged his dramatic inclinations with talent for tailoring in between. Superglam styling — WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 9 WWD.COM

As the Paris season continued, two The Latest From Lanvin important collections featured fine, tailored looks, especially jackets and By Miles Socha coats, in starring roles. Karl Lagerfeld’s Looks from toppers for Lagerfeld Gallery came in PARIS — Alber Elbaz has expensive taste in office Lanvin’s shearling or lavished with fur, while Jean pre-fall Paul Gaultier showed terrific toggle furniture. Last summer, when the collection, numbers, trenches and coat dresses. time came to buy new shown tables for Lanvin’s during es showrooms on Rue du couture Jean Paul Gaultier Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the week. designer chose a model way beyond the house’s meager budget. So Elbaz, who whips up some of the most ingenious window displays in Paris on a shoestring, took a similar DIY tack. He enlisted the artist husband of one of his staffers to paint 18 large boards with scenes of Uzbekistan based on Polaroids that Elbaz had taken on a recent trip there. “Everyone said, ‘How creative!’” Elbaz said in an interview, relating the reaction of buyers. “It’s not easy when [business conditions] are not perfect, but it gives you the drive. When you lack Alber things, you have to think and find solutions. Elbaz This is designing.” Elbaz was alluding to Lanvin’s ongoing financial woes and tight cost controls. Last year, the house let go 65 employees and exited the perfume and watch businesses in an effort to stem heavy losses, which had mounted to 22 million euros on sales of 79.3 million euros in 2003, or losses of $29 million on sales of $104.7 million at current exchange. The firm has not finished tallying its accounts for 2004, but a spokeswoman said operating losses were reduced “slightly.” Also, a worldwide fragrance license signed last June with Inter Parfums SA included a $19.4 million upfront fee, which gave Lanvin some from Yves means to develop its business, she added. Saint Laurent Plans for 2005 include the opening of five Rive Gauche and then Lanvin corners, including two at Galeries Lafayette sidelined for a year after one bumpy season at here, and six franchised boutiques in cities such as Krizia Top in Milan. Trained by the late Geoffrey Istanbul, Dubai, Moscow and Hong Kong. Beene for seven years, Israeli-born Elbaz was Majority owner Shaw-Lan Wang, a Taiwanese thrust into the limelight in 1996 when he was publishing magnate, and her son, Sing-Ming Chu, recruited to head Guy Laroche. who run the business, declined to be Reflecting on the difficult three seasons spent interviewed, even as speculation continues to at YSL, Elbaz mused that working for the house whirl about the possibility of them selling all or was “too intimidating,” not only because he part of the business. succeeded a living legend, but because Tom Ford But Elbaz — whom sources describe as and Domenico De Sole swooped in and tried to playing a key role in major decisions while orchestrate a revival à la Gucci. Russell Reynolds Assoc. hunts for a new chief “Not everything in life is like coffee; not executive officer for the house — said he is everything is instant,” said Elbaz, who is partial content with Wang’s take-it-slow approach. to talking in such similes. “Time is a very “Everyone works on a different time schedule. important factor.” You have to ask, ‘Do you want to have stores all To be sure, Elbaz’s ability to stage winning over the world?’ I’m not sure I want that,” Elbaz fashion shows and create collections with mused over lunch at the Crillon bar here. “Lanvin editorial appeal has grown exponentially since is a special house. The beauty of this brand is that his YSL days. Asked to account for the change, it’s not everywhere; not everyone wears it. he said: “More than anything [my time at YSL] Moving gradually is better for me.” helped me to focus — what I know, what I want to And Lanvin is making undeniable headway. do. I’m more true to myself now and more honest Since Elbaz showed his first collection for with my work and I’m enjoying the moment. I Lanvin in 2002, the buzz around his dreamy and feel more mature.” feminine confections has reached a crescendo, And happier at Lanvin, which he praises for making it one of the hottest tickets during Paris its “human scale” and for the freedom to “make Fashion Week. And as the house prepares for its mistakes, be less corporate and less fall show in Paris Sunday, it got a major boost formulaic....When you work with joy, it’s 6,000 miles away last weekend when Natalie reflected in the colors, the fabrics and the Portman shone on the Academy Awards red feeling of the clothes.” carpet in a Lanvin creation. Elbaz, who last fall squelched widespread sequined leggings and goat-hair shoulder fringe — sent Business is clearly following suit. Sales of speculation he was headed to Givenchy by Gaultier’s first flurry of looks flying high with big, bad attitude. women’s clothes and accessories have quadrupled renewing a “long-term” contract with Lanvin, said But the disco-diva routine was only a posture. The base of since Elbaz’s arrival. The house estimates 45 he stayed because of a strong rapport with Wang Gaultier’s collection was fabulous coats and coatdresses, reworked percent of Lanvin’s turnover this year will come — even if she is not in Paris that regularly. and redraped to hang in razor-sharp points. There was a severe from its women’s department, a big leap from the “I get along with her very well. She’s an black cape done up on the diagonal, as well as reinterpretations of 15 percent back in 2002. extremely intelligent woman,” he said. “She the classic toggle coat and trench. Military-style jackets came Wholesale clients number 230. In the U.S., doesn’t interfere with my work. She let go. I proved decked out with brass buttons and gold braiding. retailers such as Nordstrom, Barneys New York, it could be done. I proved we could grow the This sleek fare, however, countered looks that exposed Jeffrey and Susan of Burlingame carry Lanvin. business. She has me more involved in more Gaultier’s softer side, including one of his famous trenchcoats Worldwide, there are 54 Lanvin boutiques, decisions and I feel very welcomed.” done up with a jabot made from ruffles as big as cabbage corners and franchises, the lion’s share of them in Looking ahead, Elbaz said he wouldn’t rule leaves as well as charming evening looks that were bowed, Asia and more than half of them for men’s wear. out getting involved in Lanvin’s core men’s ruched and lacy. An earnest but nervous sort, Elbaz business, which has taken a backseat in recent While the multipronged approach Gaultier took to the season acknowledges he has blossomed at Lanvin after years. “I hope and I believe it will be better and left some feeling the collection lacked cohesiveness, he showed several tumultuous years that saw him ousted good,” he said. “It’s a matter of time.”

enough fabulous, wearable clothes to please even the skeptics. PHOTOS GIANNONI AND STEPHANE FEUGERE GIOVANNI BY 10 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 It’s All in the Detai Whether it was a matter of using rich trims, such as passementerie, lace and fur or special techniques, like puc making indentations, it was the distinctive details designers chose that created their most memorable lo

Costume National Sophia Kokosalaki Costume paris National

Emanuel Ungaro: When the designer’s erudite octogenarian uncle is left to his own devices among the fashion hordes, themselves being denied entry to a show well past the invitation hour, you know the house has a problem. But that’s what happened to Jorge Semprun, uncle to Vincent Darré, newly installed at Emanuel Ungaro. It’s long been rumored that the Ferragamos would love to divest themselves of Ungaro. Whether that’s true or they still expect to grow Sophia the business Kokosalaki themselves, they must come to grips with a two-part problem: One, this is a house in disarray, and two, its designer clearly lacks the power of fashion resurrection. Is there somebody in charge, making decisions, charting a course — much less, making sure there’s someone available to help an old man to his seat? Paolo de Spirt was brought in as chief executive officer a while back, but he’s a financial and operations guy, and fashion is more than a numbers racket. Upon the exit of a ▲ Emanuel Ungaro longtime designer, especially the house founder, any company has to grapple with some basic questions. Does the house still reflect the founder’s philosophy and aesthetic? If so, are they still relevant? And depending upon those answers, how do we evolve Sophia Kokosalaki: “I wanted to work with samurai armor and make it wearable,” or reinvent? Sophia Kokosalaki said after her show. Of course, that study of ancient Japan — as For some time now — well before the Ferragamos pulled the plug on the couture, ephemeral as it was — came through Kokosalaki’s Greece-meets-London lens. But thus finalizing Emanuel Ungaro’s exit — chez Ungaro has been wrought with whatever the inspiration, the cross-cultural mélange added up to a sharp collection problems, problems addressed, it seems, with mere Band-Aids. But the Band-Aid full of great clothes. Leather jackets were woven through with long silver-tipped fringe approach doesn’t work, especially when hiring a designer. Darré debuted with what or trimmed in glittering knit bands, while gauzy sweaters and dresses crisscrossed and can kindly be called a doozy of a collection — a big-bowed, kimonoed, geometric, wrapped like the most delicate, ropy armor. Kokosalaki, who lives in London, showed green-eye shadowed, plastic-shoed marvel of confusion. But that’s almost beside the in Paris for the second time this season, and her day clothes — chiffon blouses, narrow point. While his efforts gave little indication that he’s the person to jump-start a skirts, tailored trousers and elegant cashmere coats — were more polished than ever. successful reinvention, the matter of designer succession is only one glaring As anyone who has followed her career knows, Kokosalaki’s party dresses are problem for this house in apparent free-fall. magic. They seem to come into being by force of will — and, of course, by dexterous craft — swirling, winding, twisting, puckering and pleating round the body. “I like to Costume National: What looked good at Ennio Capasa’s fall Costume National show create new surfaces,” she said, describing the labor-intensive process. “It’s were his coats: fluted, decorated with subtle passementerie, edged in lace or centimeter by centimeter, and very painful.” As complicated as things must have bordered in fur. These demonstrated good common sense while paying homage to been in the studio, however, the clothes never lost their mysterious, cool-girl aura. the season’s pervasive folkloric Seventies revival — just the sort of retail level no- This season, Kokosalaki’s pain is every fashion lover’s pleasure. brainers that have earned the label a dedicated following among professional, well- dressed women who like to keep au courant. Andrew Gn: Andrew Gn’s sumptuous clothes aim to please the jet-setting members of What seemed less likely to get that crowd hustling into the checkout line, his ever-growing fan club. And this season, luxe embellishment turned even his however, were Capasa’s suits — a purple velvet tux, anyone? — or several among the simplest blouses and skirts regal, with built-in bijoux, lots of fur and metallic many of his peekaboo Heidi dresses, which were worn under tiny, tight lace-up vests. embroideries galore. Gn set the majestic tone with ladylike iridescent taffeta suits, From time to time, these teetered toward the tawdry. Capasa’s fans are real women, all carefully tailored, trimmed with wisps of fur and streaks of leafy gold and they count on him for real, honest-to-goodness, wearable clothes. embroidery, while chiffon blouses were edged with faux jewels. But even an WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 11 WWD.COM Andrew Gn Emanuel Ungaro Rick Owens A Little ils Night Magic ckering and Georgina ooks. Brandolini’s cashmere evening sweater with silk sleeves.

Undercover Issey Miyake

There’s no generation gap in terms of fashion tastes chez Georgina Brandolini. “Even my own daughters tell me it’s sexy,” the designer says of her latest line of mostly cashmere evening sweaters, which she is showing this week in Paris. Some offered plunging décolleté and scooped backs delicately trimmed with turquoise while others were more classic, such as a “cardigan blouse” combo with coral embroi- dery on the collar and coral bead cuff links. Brandolini also contin- ues to work her trompe l’oeil tal- ent with embroideries that ap- pear to be suspended on trans- parent silk backs. The designer certainly has had her fashionable fledglings — Bianca, 17, and Cornelia, 25 — in mind these days while working on a secondary label she expects to launch in July. “I wanted to create a line for a younger clientele,” she says, noting that prices would start at approximately $66, or 50 euros, wholesale. PHOTOS GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE GIOVANNI BY

astrakhan coat was pushed to the limit, trimmed with embroidered foliage, Rick Owens: After Rick Owens’ experimental and mostly unwelcome trip out on a passementerie and plush mink cuffs for good measure. limb last season, the designer made the journey back to his classic look. But what Did the collection ever cross the border into luxe-overdose territory? Sure — and was that old expression about being damned if you do and damned if you don’t? The why not? Just like his very social, very savvy customers, sometimes Gn goes just a bit stream of lean fishtail skirts in velvet and nubby wool and skinny pants paired with beyond, and that’s part of the fun. Following in spring’s over-the-top mood, Gn’s evening fur boleros and Owens’ typical jackets quickly became repetitive and uninspiring. dresses were the best of all, bejeweled, fur bedecked and not-so-simply gorgeous. The palette of dreary neutrals and the models who were so hobbled by their skirts they moved at an escargot’s pace did little to help his cause. Still, there were some Undercover: When the lights dimmed at the Undercover show, it was to the tinkling welcome sights, especially a lovely capelike fur coat worn over a floor-length dress. sound of children in a schoolyard. But those expecting recess should have taken a In fact, the most covetable of his pieces were the animal skins, such as the shrunken closer look at designer Jun Takahashi’s invitation — an elementary school timetable fur boleros and a seamed shearling jacket. Nonetheless, it’s obvious that Owens with arts-and-crafts class circled. needs to move beyond his characteristic grungy rut and bring some new life into But just because you’re learning doesn’t mean it can’t be fun. Quite the contrary, his work. the trompe l’oeil effects that the designer utilized in his dark riff on classic English countryside clothes and riding gear both fooled and delighted. Using copious Issey Miyake: Romance and poetry describe the solid collection designer Naoki amounts of wool felt, Takahashi gave his wide-legged suits, coats and dresses a stiff Takizawa delivered for Issey Miyake. Inspired by the texture and contrasts in a black- paper-doll-like flatness. Felt caps sculpted to simulate hair emphasized the doll bit. and-white film by Japanese director Yasujiro Ozu, Takizawa’s outfits came out two at The fooling came in the form of necklaces painted on a sweater and less expectedly a time — in white and black — exploring the idea of light and shadow. In most cases, in the blank shallow indentations on jackets and coats to suggest the absence of a one was decorated with embroidery or ruffles, while its pair bore worn-off traces of pocket or button. Another jacket sported a hem of inset razor blades. Cleverly cut the same decoration in trompe l’oeil. The effect was artistic but not forced, resulting felt became a ruff of feathers, and a voluminous coat was crafted entirely of black in plenty of fetching, inventive clothes. Skirts and jackets came trimmed with satin felt cutouts of skulls. And just when it seemed that all was said and done, a plaintive ruffles, while a top had concentric circles of gold sequins. On the sporty side, trumpet announced a cavalry, a dozen strong, of tomboyish soldier uniforms, ending Takizawa featured puffy ski jackets decorated with a wavy pattern. He closed with a the show with a delightful visual flourish. beautiful satin ruffled gown that, when the lights dropped, glowed in the dark. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 WWD.COM Denim Dish Another Round in Seven Court Squabble The legal battle between the owners of the Seven For All Mankind and Seven7 jeans brands has flared up again. Seven Licensing Co., which holds the U.S. rights for the Seven7 jeans brand, filed a lawsuit Tuesday in U.S. District Court in Los Angeles against L’Koral Inc., which makes Seven For All Mankind, alleging 13 complaints including breach of contract, unfair competition and interference with contractual relations. The suit seeks at People’s Liberation for Denim least $10 million in damages. Danny Guez launched People’s Liberation six months Seven Licensing argues that L’Koral attempted to “disrupt and destroy” its retail relationships and “restrain ago as a contemporary athletic sportswear line, but trade in the relevant market” by coercing retailers into a group boycott of the brand. now he’s planning a brand extension that wouldn’t “L’Koral has gone on a very aggressive campaign to intimidate retailers from carrying the Seven7 brand,” said surprise most of the denim cognoscenti, given his Larry Russ, an attorney for Seven Licensing. “Seven7 has obtained orders from retailers who’ve subsequently family background. The brand will be rolling out a changed their minds based on threats received from L’Koral.” jeans line that is to ship March 30. L’ K oral, which like Seven Licensing is based in Los Angeles, said it would fight back against the claims. “I didn’t cut any corners with this denim line,” “Seven Licensing’s lawsuit is meritless and L’Koral will vigorously defend itself against it,” said Bruce Wessel, Guez said. an attorney with Ira & Manella representing L’Koral. People’s Liberation, based in Los Angeles, con- The parties have been squabbling in court for more than two years. sists of five styles in In 2002, L’Koral filed suit against Seven Licensing, which countersued regarding trademark infringement. That mat- four washes, including ter was settled in 2003. Last month, L’Koral filed suit against Lane Bryant, alleging unfair competition and false adver- a 22-inch flare and a tising by the plus-size retailer, which has begun carrying the Seven7 line. trouser style. Each Russ said his client’s latest case is related to the Lane Bryant complaint. back pocket features — Nola Sarkisian-Miller the line’s signature star logo. Guez, 32, learned the business working Carbon Six co-founders Nikia White and Shane for his father, Paul, at The Clean Game Dykes brought in Watson, a graduate of the Fashion Azteca Productions, Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles, in where he spent 10 Carbon Six, the Los Angeles-based apparel company, February 2004 on a part-time basis. Until last week, she years developing pri- is looking to clean up the jeans business with its C6 continued to devote some of her time to designing the vate label denim prod- denim collection. Los Angeles store Resurrection Vintage’s private label ucts for customers “It’s not your typical L.A. brand,” said C6 head de- line, Catie et al Marcs. including Pacific Sun- signer Sienna Watson, explaining that, rather than em- But she said her vintage days are behind her. wear, J. Crew and phasizing heavily distressed styles, the line focuses on “I don’t come into the design process thinking vin- American Eagle. Now a cleaner look. tage,” she said. “I’m not interested in doing something he’s independent and The jeans stand out for their simple rinses, not for that has already been done.” owns the new brand. rips or abrasions. —L.D. “I’m at the factories The C6 collection, which includes five styles in two every single day,” Guez washes, wholesales from $67 to $110. The company pre- said. “Not only are we dicts wholesale volume for the new line, which first A look from the based in L.A., but we shipped in January, will reach $3 million this year. L.A.-based C6 produce everything in Key looks in the fall 2005-winter 2006 collection in- collection. L.A., too.” clude some corduroy pieces as well a trouser-cut style The wholesale price of jeans and denim knickers. The line is being distrib- range of the collection uted at specialty boutiques nationwide. is between $98 and $131. Guez said some styles of his jeans use a fabric that has a cash- mere fill yarn. The The Bella style from People’s result is an extra-soft Liberation is named for fabric that Guez calls Danny Guez’s daughter. “buttery.” Beyond the cash- mere filler, Guez said he worked to correct the fit more than 15 times before getting it right. “Now it’s perfect,” he said. “It doesn’t flatten your butt.” Guez introduced corduroys in his fall collection in colors such as raspberry, turquoise, black, chocolate, purple and khaki. Novel Goes Private He said he expects the wholesale volume of the denim collection to reach $5 million in 2005, with distri- Novel Denim Holdings Ltd. completed its offer to take bution in specialty stores. the Hong Kong-based company private on Monday. “I really want to have steady growth and maintain The firm’s board in December voted to pay $1.20 per control in distribution,” Guez said. share to shareholders outside the family of president —Lauren DeCarlo and chief executive officer K.C. Chao, already Novel’s controlling shareholder. After the close of that offer, the company filed with the Securities and Exchange Commission to delist its shares from the Nasdaq Small Cap Market. When it Yanuk’s Turn disclosed its plans to go private, the firm said the high costs of compliance with U.S. securities laws were Ya -el Torbati, designer of contemporary denim line becoming a severe drag on margins. Yanuk, left the Los Angeles-based company last Novel had operated a network of fabric and appar- week. el plants in China, as well as in South Africa and on Torbati, 31, who joined Yanuk about two years ago the Indian Ocean islands of Madagascar and to launch the line, said she hopes to apply her ex- Mauritius. Those far-flung locales had attracted gar- pertise to her own denim venture, which she hopes ment makers who needed access to quota rights. But to launch by next spring. She wants to have an equity with the nations of the World Trade Organization stake in her future lines to allow her “more say in dropping their quotas on Jan. 1, the operations out- business decisions.” side of China became less important. Yanuk is one of the denim companies under the In recent years, Novel closed its Madagascar and Blue Concepts umbrella, headed by Paul Guez. Mauritius garment operations and last month the firm “I’m so grateful for everything he did for me, giv- said it would halt its South African fabric operations. ing me a chance to design a line,” said Torbati, who That left as its sole operation a fabric complex in said the fall collection represents her final design ef- Shenzhen, China. fort at Yanuk. For the nine months ended Dec. 31 — the last peri- Guez said that he hopes to name a new designer od for which Novel is reporting results — the company to the line soon and that he expects it to bring in $8 posted an $8.1 million net loss, essentially level with million this year, regardless of Torbati’s departure. the loss in the same period the previous year. Sales “Everyone is doing well with designers leaving — were $56.3 million, which the company compared with look at Jerome and Seven,” he said, referring to the restated year-ago revenues of $38 million. Those sales success at Seven For All Mankind after designer numbers accounted for only the fabric business and Jerome Dahan departed in December 2002. factored out the discontinued garment operations. Another person to exit Yanuk recently was presi- When the firm had reported nine-month 2003 sales a dent Tadd Zarubica, who left in November. Rick year earlier, it posted total revenues of $114.6 million, Spielberg succeeded him. including garment sales. — N.S.M. — Scott Malone WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 13 WWD.COM Denim Report Goldschmied’s Gold Rush

By Nola Sarkisian-Miller The GoldSign GoldSign line is jeans LOS ANGELES — Denim doyen Adriano Goldschmied couldn’t stay away from the jeans bowing for wholesale business for long. fall retailing. for $75 The designer, who sold out of his last brand in September, is back with a new line, called to $100. GoldSign, that intends to tap into what he described as “the new gold rush.” “Every single town in America seems to have a store that can sell ex- pensive goods,” Goldschmied said in an interview. The comparison is apt, in that it was the California gold rush of the mid-19th century that first sparked demand for jeans. After the boom in demand for premium and superpremium jeans during the past five years, Goldschmied’s latest venture of- fers high-end jeans and sportswear to complement them. Goldschmied has been toiling in a loft space in the toy dis- trict of downtown L.A. since last fall, when he sold his stake in the AG Adriano Goldschmied line to Koos Mfg., which had li- censed it for the past four years. He said he decided to split from his former partners because he couldn’t stand not having complete control of his line’s presentation. “A designer has to be able to articulate his vision to the customer, to the press, and control the brand image from the way people answer the phones,” he said, dressed in his trademark Levi’s jeans, Gap T- Adriano Goldschmied shirt and Adidas sneakers. “At Koos, I felt limited to only design, and I feel like I have a few more things to say.” He also lamented that the line didn’t reach big-brand status like that enjoyed by Diesel, which he founded almost 30 years ago and later sold to Renzo Rosso, a former student of his whom he hired as a production manager. He said sales at AG last year hovered around $45 million — tiny compared with the $600 million-plus that Diesel now generates. To make amends for what he calls a “lost opportunity,” he’s assembled GoldSign, the lat- est line incorporating the key syllable of his name. In the Eighties, he produced a brand called Goldie, and in the Nineties, launched A Gold E. His hope has been that “Gold” would communicate the value of his products. GoldSign covers a wide swath of luxurious sportswear — denim, trousers, woven tops, T- shirts, sweatshirts and leather.

“Luxury starts early in the morning and ends late at night,” he said. TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY While the line is broad, Goldschmied doesn’t plan to delve deeply into each category. For instance, he’s limiting himself to one leather jacket. The collection reflects his forte in the apparel business: fabrics. He has been working with mills to develop the fabrics, using mostly Japanese denim, corduroy, velvet, chiffon and cotton twill. The long fibers in the cotton grown in the windy hills of Cameroon help give his knits a silky hand. Petite He plans to take his textiles to new heights with plans to purchase a local laundry, giving him more control over the whole operation. “I can develop my own product in complete privacy and not risk Missy my line looking like everyone else’s,” he said. Jeans styles in the line include a boot leg, flare cut and skinny leg. The five-pocket rigid-denim “Passion” style is designed to mold to the Plus body and features tailored stitching on the hips, angled horn bartacks on the pockets, printed pocket linings that have irreverent sayings such as “Nobody inspected this garment” and brass rivets with engraving. His “slide button,” a snap with an internal teardrop shape, is in- tended to ease the fumbling factor in putting on a pair of jeans, par- ticularly for someone with long nails. The flare cut, called “Desire,” is geared for “feminine bodies,” while the skinny jean is named “Envy,” to elicit ill-will from others, and is designed for “great bodies,” but he realizes the market hasn’t opened up wide in the U.S. for the style. “It’s a hard sell here,” he said. “Americans eat a lot of hamburgers.” But Goldschmied said it’s important to position the line as a fashion leader and represent global trends. To further his mission, he’ll offer higher-end concept pieces — about 25 per season — such as a style of the bell-bottom jeans in thin denim and a futuristic pair of black jeans with no exposed stitching. There’s also a layered, or- ganza skirt with a denim waistband. His knits, featuring extralong sleeves, hems and waist-banding, incorporate yarns from denim, which give the surface of the gar- ments a rippled tint. Wholesale prices for the American-made line will average $75 to $100, and deliveries are set to begin July 30. He expects first-year sales to reach $10 million to $13 million. Goldschmied tends to shy away from major marketing pushes, but said he hopes to win fans for the line among the Hollywood set. Later this month, he also plans to roll out a men’s version of the line. Eventually, he’d like to open signature stores. Retailers said they’re looking forward to seeing Goldschmied’s latest venture. “He has a trademark and thumbprint that is visible on every- thing he touches,” said Thomas George, owner of E Street Denim. “Rather than follow the trends, he creates his product, then finds a 1407 B’way New York NY 10018 fit for it in the market.” T. (212) 704.4082 Getting back in the denim saddle was always the plan for the 61- year-old Goldschmied, who doesn’t like practicing for retirement. He F. (212) 704.4234 did allow for his first vacation in five years with his wife, Michela, at the luxury beachfront resort of Palmilla in Cabo San Lucas last www.adolfojeans.com November. But ever since, it’s been back to those 16-hour days. “There’s so much to do,” he said. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 WWD.COM The Beat Even in the Snow, Coterie Delivers

By Lauren DeCarlo Imitation of Christ This was the was located in The fourth season NEW YORK — Despite some citings of slow traffic, most Mezzanine. Karanina exhibitors at The Fashion Coterie were pleased with the showed at pace of business. Coterie. Produced by ENK International, the Fashion Coterie was held at The Show Piers here at Piers 90, 92 and 94. It kicked off Sunday and wrapped up Tuesday. Some 1,240 collections were exhibited, of which 142 were new to the show, which attracted 15,000 retailers. Retailers buzzed about Jack, a trouser line based here. Stacey Pecor, owner of the four Olive & Bette’s boutiques here, said she uses Coterie to find new resources and was happy to discover the Jack collection. “I thought there was a void in the market for a nice pant line, so I really liked Jack,” Pecor said. Pecor was on the hunt for styles that weren’t dictated by the trends. “Our customer doesn’t take her fashion sense directly from magazines or television,” she said. “They are confident with their own styles. At the last two Coteries, I’ve noticed that one or two big trends stand out, and everyone jumps on the bandwagon.” Pecor said, namely the ethnic trend. “I think people are doing this ethnic trend, which will continue into fall, at the expense of other things that could be out KEY LOOKS there. These trends get watered down — especially in New York, where you can AT COTERIE find trends at a variety of price points. ■ Olive & Bette’s will undergo an expan- Full skirts sion in April. The 400-square-foot shop, on ■ Prints Columbus Avenue between 71st and 72nd ■ Chunky knits Streets, will expand next door, occupying a total of 1,200 square feet. Pecor opened ■ Belted jackets that location 10 years ago. ■ Slouchy trousers Seven For All Mankind saw great traffic ■ and even when its booth was packed, there Printed Ts were frequently people waiting outside. ■ Military-inspired “We’re not looking to expand distribu- jackets fashion calendar. “It was a bit quieter, but we still did as much business tion,” said Jennifer Highman, wholesale “Coterie is too late,” said Karen Erick- as we expected,” she said. “Plus, we did a lot of business ■ Beaded and manager for the company. “But growth is son, founder of Showroom Seven. “It’s right with retailers from the Midwest, which we’ve never real- planned within existing stores.” embroidered tops on top of [the shows in] Europe. Coterie ly done before.” Highman said fur-embellished pieces and needs to be right after fashion week in New Imitation of Christ, one of the companies Showroom a boot-cut, floor-length skirt were standouts. The wholesale Yo rk. If fashion week ends on Friday, Coterie should start Seven represents, was situated in the exclusive section, price range of the collection is between $82 and $193. on Sunday to keep the momentum.” The Mezzanine. The 34 companies showing there were On Pier 92, Dawn Mayo, vice president of sales and Twenty-one companies from Erickson’s showroom invited by ENK International. marketing for the woven shirt line, Fourtys, said busi- were in attendance at Coterie, and while she said all of “I think retailers and buyers were a bit hesitant at ness was better than ever. her companies did “well” over the three-day period, she first to come up here,” said Melissa Jaye Dallon-Sbrega, “We did roughly $500,000 at the show,” Mayo said. The added, “I think we can do better.” representative for Imitation of Christ. “But once they wholesale price range of the Fourtys collection ranges “Sunday and Monday were great, but not Tuesday,” did, it was really great.” between $49 and $79. Erickson said of the foot traffic. Dallon-Sbrega thought The Mezzanine made it easier Some exhibitors complained about the slow foot traf- Kara Smith, designer of the Karanina collection, said for the buyers to browse the collections of companies fic, which they attributed to both the snowstorm that she saw less traffic at this, her fourth, Coterie, but that that might not have shown at a trade show had they not socked the East Coast, and where the Coterie fell on the even when it’s slow, it’s still great business. been invited. “It definitely got us in the door,” she said.

A fall look from Secrets of Charm. The Train Pulls Into Gotham NEW YORK — The Train is picking up steam. with European companies, so I’m always looking out for them.” Begun last September, The Train was back at the Terminal Hedvat, who owns six Variazioni boutiques throughout New Stores in West Chelsea with 70 apparel, footwear and accessories York, recently opened a shop at 2395 Broadway at 88th Street vendors, an increase of 10 from the previous event. The show ran here. For this specific location, he’s seeking strictly European Saturday through Tuesday and attracted 2,377 visitors. vendors. At The Train, he signed two French accounts: Papagena, Secrets of Charm, a collection of jersey knit tops, skirts and an accessories company, and Eunhwa, a women’s apparel line. dresses, exhibited at The Train for the first time. Estee and “They’re both beautiful lines and their pieces are very young Sharon Elkayam launched the collection in January 2004. The and trendy,” he said. sisters are no strangers to the fashion business: Estee spent sev- Mischa Woeste, designer and owner of the Smeilinener’s col- eral years in wholesale and marketing for several luxury brands lection based in Berlin, said that, while there was a lot of interest such as Calvin Klein and Barbara Bui. Sharon worked at Ralph expressed in her line, not many orders were placed. Lauren as a designer in both women’s and men’s denim and wo- “When I walk around New York in my clothes, I get a great vens for Blue Label, RRL and Rugby. response,” she said. “But I think retailers want to know that Estee thought the quality of retailers visiting the show was of a you’re reliable and feel like you can produce before they place high caliber. “I’ve found that, when it comes to retailers in atten- orders here.” dance, it’s more about quality, not quantity,” said Estee Elkayam. Woeste’s collection incorporates fabrics from Spain, Austria, “Here, you don’t have to do any business that you don’t want to Japan and Italy, among other countries. The wholesale price do. I’m not sure that’s the case at the other shows.” range is between $200 and $500. The collection, which wholesales from $95 to $120, is named Louise Reichmann, buyer for Harvey Nichols in London, said after an etiquette book from the Fifties. Key pieces for fall-winter she believes The Train had a great environment and interesting include an Art Deco-inspired print top, gold jersey knit dress and mix of merchandise. a red jersey knit top with a silk charmeuse tie in the back. “I didn’t pick up anything for this season, but I applaud it,” Barry Hedvat, owner and buyer for the specialty boutique Reichmann said. “It’s nothing like the other shows, which can get Variazioni, said the number of European brands was what competitive. I think it’s great to have an additional place for brought him to the show. these vendors to show.” “I was really impressed by the show,” Hedvat said. “I like to work — L.D. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 15 WWD.COM Active LifestyleX

Women’s is a growth area Spyder Aims for New Peaks for Spyder. NEW YORK — Spyder Active Sports, with the backing of private Other high-end collections getting more focus for fall are equity firm Apax Partners, is preparing for major expansion in Platinum, a women’s line, and Legend, a men’s and women’s the ski industry and beyond. performance collection. Women’s accounts for about 30 per- The $80 million company, for years a niche player in the ski cent of sales, and Jacobs sees room for growth. arena, is branching out for fall with more products for women, in- The Spyder Outdoor collection is another growing venture creased marketing, a larger selection of higher-end lifestyle prod- and includes products for activities beyond skiing. ucts and plans to open in-store shops in department stores. The line is a lifestyle-oriented, multisport collection featur- “I think we could triple our sales in the next four years,” ing outerwear, pants, sportswear and accessories, said Laura David Jacobs, Spyder’s founder and president, said in a phone Wisner, Spyder’s senior marketing manager. interview from the company’s Boulder, Colo., headquarters. Opening additional in-store shops in department stores is an- “We feel we have so many opportunities,” Jacobs added. other focus. All fixtures and design will be done by Spyder and the “We feel the brand has a lot of traction now to really expand.” merchandise will stand alone in the designated areas of the stores. As it seeks new ways to expand its brand, Spyder is bucking a The company has stepped up its marketing with advertisements trend in the wider outdoor industry, which has seen growth in large on Fox Sports, and increased outdoor advertising in markets such as part through acquisition. Columbia Sportswear bought Mountain New York and Chicago. It also plans to increase its print advertising. Hardware last year and owns snowboot brand Sorel. K2, a public — Dawn Kissi company, acquired Marmot and Marker. Retailers have been con- solidating, as well. The Sports Authority now owns Gart Sport, and Dick’s Sporting Goods has bought Galyans Trading Co. Founded in 1978 by Jacobs, a Canadian-born championship skier, Spyder has made its mark tar- geting professional and hardcore recreational skiers with high-tech ski jackets, sportswear and acces- sories, all of which have the com- pany’s distinctive black widow logo. Elements of style Its products are sold in about 500 storefronts, including some department stores like Macy’s and Marshall Field’s, as well as specialty chains such as Dick’s Sporting Goods and Sports Wl Chalet, and ski shops. From the marriage of science and style In July, Apax Partners ac- W ool quired a controlling interest in the company in a deal valued at come exciting innovations from the makers $100 million, and now has three people on Spyder’s board. of GORE-TEX® fabric— Wool, Cotton, “We view ourselves as coun- selors and resources,” said Denim and Liners. Paige Daly, a partner in Apax Partners. “This is a long-term Ct These elements give designers and investment for us.” John Walbrecht, vice president Cotton of sales and marketing, stepped manufacturers new options for creating down last month after eight years. A replacement has not been fashions that stand up to the demanding named, but the company will be hiring for this post, Jacobs said. Spyder has about 75 employees. tastes of today’s fashion-focused For fall, Spyder has a number of initiatives in place to propel its Dn customers—as well as the demanding growth. On the product front, the brand has a new ultra high-end Denim elements of wind, rain, and cold. limited-edition collection with a built-in iPod designed by Apple. “We are seeing a lot of growth in the high-end area of our business,” Jacobs said. Part chemistry, part alchemy, part mystery,

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For many designers, it was all about volume in New York. Style.com has provided the top 20 designers with the most page views following the first 12 days they PumpUp theVolume were posted. Though late for his own show, Marc Jacobs nabs the top spot for the third year in a row. And was it Ms. Lopez’s celebrity or her fashions that sparked Top 20 New York Fashion Week designers’ fall collections by page views. so much interest following her premiere? WWD said it was a little bit of both.

MARC JACOBS NARCISO RODRIGUEZ Page views: 1,548,269 Page views: 754,213 “This show offered a darker, broodier world view Rodriguez had a bit of everything: svelte than anything Jacobs has proposed in years, yet it provocative dresses and jackets and playful clung to a hopeful romance,” WWD said. Volume shirtdresses and big raincoats. Yet “the show felt 1 ruled, but so did cashmere sweaters and burgundy 11 a bit like an exercise in perfecting the expected,” eveningwear. WWD said.

SWEETFACE DIANE VON FURSTENBERG Page views: 1,321,919 Page views: 742,691 In this, Jennifer Lopez’s virgin fashion show, jeans Program notes stated von Furstenberg’s and baby dolls to lavish fur and diamonds adorned inspiration came from Russian literary heroines. the runway. Even if innovation was a bit lacking, the Low-key, alluring dresses ensued, lightened by 2 collection could find a niche if the price is right. 12 contrasting prints, making for a powerful, yet feminine, collection.

MARC BY MARC JACOBS DONNA KARAN Page views: 1,318,143 Page views: 729,727 This line from Marc Jacobs continues an impressive Using her fascination with New York City, independence from its sister collection. Jacobs “Karan brought together elements of men’s revealed a lineup of “cool kid” clothing, which wear, ultrafeminine draping, intense details and 3 included volumized skirts and parkas to tartans and 13 a soupçon of the artiste in near-perfect pinstripes. expression,” said WWD.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA BCBG MAX AZRIA Page views: 1,132,607 Page views: 729,330 Coining de la Renta a “trend maven,” WWD Favoring pieces fashioned for the hippie chicks revealed his fall favorites: volume and flats. Add to of the world, chiffon dresses and tweeds were all that scads of fur and embroidered skirts. Two fans the craze for Max Azria this fall. Tobacco, 4 who reflect his versatility? Laura Bush and 14 tomato red and evergreen colors were the hot Beyoncé Knowles. choices.

RALPH LAUREN PROENZA SCHOULER Page views: 1,090,552 Page views: 649,118 Lauren’s series of lean shapes and curvy knits were “The fall collection swaggered with confidence inspired by his collection of vintage racing cars (on and a savvy awareness of bottom-line realities,” display at Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts beginning said WWD. Styles of the Sixties mixed with 5 Sunday). 15 corsets, crinkly silk dresses and tailored pinstripes.

CALVIN KLEIN VERA WANG Page views: 1,010,395 Page views: 596,963 Going against the volume theme, Klein’s successor “Wang’s color palette was a gorgeous and Francisco Costa revealed a bold show of grid motifs, painterly mélange of rich but subtle hues,” origami trim and leather tiles on his women’s wear. WWD said. “She imbued dresses, tops and 6 16 skirts with a wonderful fluidity using filmy tulles and chiffons.”

ZAC POSEN IMITATION OF CHRIST Page views: 1,005,800 Page views: 582,120 WWD raved Posen’s dresses “looked plenty Tara Subkoff’s show was well received by alluring.” Favorites included his Grecian-inspired, WWD, aside from a “group of deconstructed suit pleated goddess dresses. “It made for his best jackets.” Nods went out to her jumpsuits and 7 collection yet,” said WWD. 17 tailored tweeds.

MICHAEL KORS MATTHEW WILLIAMSON Page views: 994,137 Page views: 533,659 Massive furs adorned Kors’ fall collection. “Bravo, Matthew!” WWD raved. While his Underneath he showed fitted sweaters and full bohemian-inspired creations were sprinkled in, skirts. For eveningwear: short glittery numbers most impressive were his separates: coats and 8 and full-length taffetas. 18 jackets were paired with multicolored pleated skirts.

CAROLINA HERRERA TULEH Page views: 926,816 Page views: 484,244 Inspired by the Forties, Herrera’s focus was classic “The collection was clearly a breakthrough for chic. She offered sophisticated and tailored fitted [Bryan] Bradley — and an impressive one at suits by day and gemstone-laden dresses by night. that,” said WWD. Sportswear pieces and a glam 9 19 coat collection were both smartly executed.

ANNA SUI LUELLA Page views: 881,794 Page views: 468,713 Straying far from last season’s girly ruffles, Sui “An oversized washed-out ‘graffiti’ floral was wove interior elements such as textile and graphic fabulous in skirts and a strapless dress, as were patterns into her designs, playing with colors such the pleated chiffon dresses,” WWD said. The 10 as orange, brown, turquoise and moss green. 20 silk party dresses did not fare as well. PHOTOS: WWD ARCHIVES SOURCE: STYLE.COM. THE WEB SITE HAS A MONTHLY READERSHIP OF MORE THAN 1,000,000. THE AVERAGE AGE OF THE AUDIENCE IS 35, WITH A MEDIAN INCOME OF $68,000; 83 PERCENT OF READERS ARE FEMALE. PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER AND TALAYA CENTENO

WWD The College Issue Section II: April 28 Close: April 8

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For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p., group publisher at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 18 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 WWD.COM Consumer Division Sales Skiwear Gets Lift From Designers By Melanie Kletter A look from the Pucci/Rossignol Increase at Beiersdorf NEW YORK — The ski industry is getting a shot of collection. fashion glam for fall, as companies team with big- BERLIN — Sales volume of Beiersdorf ’s cash cow, Nivea, in- name designers to create special collections. creased 4.4 percent on a currency-adjusted basis to 2.73 billion Burton Snowboards is collaborating with British euros, or $3.57 billion at average exchange, in 2004, the designer Sir Paul Smith, Moncler has tapped Hamburg-based group said at its annual consumer division press Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière and Ski Rossignol conference on Tuesday. has joined with design house Emilio Pucci and its Overall, Beiersdorf ’s branded consumer division grew sales 2.7 creative director Christian Lacroix for its newest line. percent to 3.84 billion euros, or $5.02 billion. At constant exchange “It’s interesting when two companies work to- rates, divisional sales rose 4.3 gether who you wouldn’t expect to come together,” percent. The consumer divi- said Greg Dacyshyn, Burton’s vice president and BEAUTY BEAT sion generates about 84 per- creative director of product. “Burton and Paul cent of group turnover and in- Smith bring different things to the line, and so far cludes skin care brands Nivea, Eucerin, La Prairie, Juvena, we have really enjoyed the creative process of this.” Marlies Möller, Labello, Florena and others. It also includes band- The ski industry by and large has been slow to ages under the Hansaplast, Curad, Curitas and Elastoplast names. adapt to wider fashion trends, and apart from a few Appearing for the last time as Beiersdorf ’s board member in notable exceptions such as Prada and Ralph charge of the consumer division, Uwe Wölfer, who will retire Lauren’s RLX line, the category hasn’t seen an influx March 31, underscored the continued success of Beiersdorf ’s of designer entrants. Ski apparel sales overall have umbrella brand strategy, especially with regard to Nivea. The been tepid and more difficult in women’s. In special- brand now holds 183 market-leader positions out of a total of 650 ty and chain stores, total adult snowsports apparel possible number one slots, up from 173 in 2003. sales increased to $715 million in the 2003-2004 sea- “No other brand holds so many number one positions in the son from $677 million in 2002-2003, according to world,” he declared. trade organization SnowSports Industries America. Beiersdorf is taking a similar umbrella approach to its phar- But in recent seasons, ski looks have been get- macy-distributed skin care brand, Eucerin, which grew sales 7 ting more fashionable, and next fall may be the percent in 2004. Eucerin achieved double-digit growth in 19 trendiest yet on the slopes. At the recent ISPO countries in 2004, and is the number one apothecary skin care outdoor apparel show in Munich, new fashion and skin cleansing brand in Europe, he said. In the prestige seg- messages included cropped jackets, fluffy fur col- ment, the Juvena/La Prairie Group increased currency-adjusted lars and a variety of form-fitting looks. sales to 186 million euros, or $243 million. Stascha Kaelin, co-owner of Kaelin, which has Geographically, Asia saw the strongest sales growth, with sales a high-end sport store in Aspen, Colo., and in in China increasing by 30 percent and sales in Thailand rising 12 Newport Beach, Calif., noted that more fash- percent. After years of stagnation, the launch of Eucerin body lo- ion-forward and traditional ski firms are in- tion helped sales in Japan grow by 7 percent. Sales in Australia creasing their style quotient. Bogner is well- also increased 23 percent. known for its flair and has a range of European sales, excluding Germany, rose 2.1 percent to 1.85 bold and bright looks for fall, while billion euros, or $2.42 billion, and contributed about 50 percent more traditional ski firms, such as PHOTO BY FÉDÉRIQUE DUMOULIN PHOTO BY of the division’s total sales. Great Britain increased sales 14 per- Obermeyer and Nils, are adding cent, Switzerland was up 8 percent, Spain rose 7 percent, more color and pizzazz, she said. the canny London-based designer Portugal increased 6 percent and Sweden grew 5 percent. Kaelin has already bought the known for his men’s tailored looks The domestic market remained under the cloud of Germany’s Rossignol Pucci line and said she and women’s cardigans and dresses. economic doldrums and continued consumer reluctance. “5.2 welcomed the designer additions. The collection, called Mark XIII, million unemployed does not provide the scenario one needs to “It’s really good for the indus- incorporates technical and fash- build business,” Wölfer commented. Overall, the Beiersdorf try to have these new collabora- ion elements, Dacyshyn said. brands inched up German sales 1 percent to 898 million euros, or tions,” she said. “For our cus- “It’s old school Everest expe- $1.17 billion. tomers, it’s a dessert. It’s some- dition meets English country- — Melissa Drier thing different and everyone side,” he said. wants something new.” A jacket from the new While Burton is best known Ski companies, similar to ac- line produced by Moncler for its snowboards and related Givaudan Sales Gain in 2004 tivewear collaborations such as and Nicolas Ghesquière. apparel, the company has a PARIS — Swiss flavors and fragrances company Givaudan regis- Adidas and Stella McCartney and range of products and has been rapid- tered 2004 sales of 2.68 billion Swiss francs, or $2.26 million at Puma and Neil Barrett, are getting ly building up its women’s offerings. average exchange, a 0.4 percent rise year-on-year. In local cur- fresh ideas from designers known Among the features on the initial rencies, sales increased 4 percent in the period. for pushing the envelope. line of Mark XIII products are cli- Givaudan’s fragrance division posted sales of 1.07 billion For Rossignol, the deal with Burton has tapped mate control ventilation, removable Swiss francs, or $903.3 million, up 1.4 percent over 2003. In local Italian design firm Emilio Pucci Sir Paul Smith for insulators and special Paul Smith currencies, the gain was 4.8 percent. In a statement, Givaudan at- gives the company an established a line of skiwear prints that are used on a Gore-tex tributed the growth to its fine fragrance and consumer products designer name to punch up its looks. and accessories. 3L fabric.The initial offerings are in businesses. Colorful jackets, ski pants and men’s, but women’s is in develop- Yet, the firm said: “Sales in fragrance ingredients continued jumpsuits with Pucci prints are ment and will likely be added in to be impacted by the phasing-out of commodity ingredients, con- among the styles in the initial col- coming months, Dacyshyn said. sistent with Givaudan’s strategy to focus on the production of lection bowing for fall, as well as The line has suggested retail prices high value-added fragrance molecules.” The company said its base layers, sweaters and acces- of $549 to $900 for jackets and $399 to program to improve operating margins has been successful “and sories. Retail prices for the base $549 for ski pants, and is higher priced will deliver additional savings in 2005.” layers and accessories run from than most Burton products. Dacyshyn Last year, Givaudan’s gross margin rose to 47.8 percent versus about $120 to $450, while soft shell said the company is targeting retailers, 46.1 percent in 2003. Operating profits minus goodwill amortiza- jackets are about $600 and other including Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys tion advanced from 415 million Swiss francs, or $349.4 million, to outerwear sells for about $750 to New York and Jeffrey, as well as bou- 484 million Swiss francs, or $407.5 million, resulting in an operat- $800. The line will be sold at Pucci tiques at high-end ski shops, such as in ing margin of 18.1 percent last year against 15.3 percent in 2003. stores, as well as ski shops that carry Vail, Colo. The line also includes acces- On a comparable basis, the company’s net profits had a 20 per- Rossignol. The company is targeting more high- sories like bags and gloves. cent uptick to 350 million Swiss francs, or $294.6 million. end boutiques with this collection. Dacyshyn said the collaboration will be ex- — Jennifer Weil “We have already seen a strong response to our panded into more products in coming months. lifestyle looks that can be worn under the outer- At Moncler, the high-tech offerings designed in wear and apres ski,” said Mike Hermann, soft goods collaboration with Ghesquière will have a joint Inter Parfums Forms Two Divisions product manager at Rossignol Ski Co. Inc., the label, Balenciaga-Moncler, and will be sold within PARIS — Inter Parfums SA has announced a plan for reorganiza- firm’s. U.S. division. He said the collection is esti- both the designer’s and Moncler’s collections. tion. Effective March 15, the Paris-based subsidiary of Inter mated to account for about 15 percent of U.S. sales. Among the looks are puffy vests and jackets with Parfums Inc. will be divided into a Burberry Fragrances division, Although Pucci these days is best known for its unpadded nylon zip-out sleeves. overseen by Marcella Cacci, and a “luxe and fashion” division — to colorful prints on silk, the move to designing ski Amid the rush of newcomers, the level of sales include the Lanvin, Paul Smith, S.T. Dupont, Christian Lacroix attire takes the firm full circle. The late designer they generate is uncertain. and Celine brands. Emilio Pucci got his start designing ski clothes “These high-end collections are for a very lim- This will be headed up by Frederic Garcia-Peylo, formerly as- and was a member of the 1934 Italian Olympic ski ited market,” Kaelin said. “We have seen design- sociate managing director. Both Cacci and Garcia-Peylo will re- team. Now Pucci is a division of LVMH Moët ers enter ski before, but it’s cyclical. The problem port to Philippe Benacin, president and chief executive officer of Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Lacroix is creative with these styles is that it’s hard to know how long Inter Parfums SA. “Taking into account its size and its growth director of the brand. Rossignol also has a collab- the looks will last. Pucci is a very certain kind of perspectives, Inter Parfums decided to strengthen its organiza- oration line with Jean-Charles Castlebajac. look and it may be short-lived.” tion,” said the company in a statement. Burton, meanwhile, is reaching to the other side — With contributions from of the pond with its new collaboration with Smith, Luisa Zargani, Milan Are you getting ready for ICSC?

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Neiman’s Net Gains 19.3% in Quarter Continued from page one are expected to increase by 3 to 5 percent. Revenues for the three months gained 7.7 percent to “We are confident that our customers find our mer- $1.13 billion from $1.05 billion. chandise very inviting,” Tansky said. “Luxury is alive and well, and there’s not a better Significant trends for spring so far include dangle place to find it than at The Neiman Marcus Group,” boast- bracelets, espadrille shoes, sandals and high heels, as ed Burt Tansky, Neiman’s president and chief executive well as gypsy and bohemian looks in sportswear, the ceo officer, in a conference call with Wall Street analysts. noted. The results come as speculation continues to swirl that On the operational side, the company has implement- something is going on with Neiman Marcus and its con- ed a locker-stock inventory program that keeps key items trolling shareholders, the Smith family. While speculation in a central location. The point is to be able to ship mer- last month was that Neiman’s might be snapped up by chandise directly to the consumer if it is unavailable in Federated Department Stores or another investor, the cur- the store, which will improve customer service as well as rent feeling is that the Smiths more likely are preparing a inventory turns. secondary offering or other financial maneuver involving For the six months, income rose by 16.7 percent to their shareholding to capitalize on Neiman’s soaring stock $134.7 million, or $2.73 a diluted share, from $115.4 mil- price and engage in a form of estate planning. lion, or $2.37, in the comparable year-ago period. By division, revenues at specialty retail stores — Excluding the loss on the disposition of Chef ’s Catalog in Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman — increased 9.6 the first quarter of fiscal 2005 and the $7.5 million tax percent to $912 million from $832 million. Same-store sales impact in the second quarter of 2004, adjusted earnings for the segment rose 9.6 percent, while sales for Neiman were $2.92 a diluted share. Revenues increased by 9.1 Marcus Stores gained 9 percent and Bergdorf Goodman percent to $2.04 billion from $1.87 billion. rose 14.5 percent. In the direct-marketing group, sales Analysts pondered what the changes at Barneys New inched down by 1.6 percent to $188 million from $191 mil- York, which was bought by Jones Apparel Group last year, lion. Excluding Chef ’s Catalog, which was sold last year, and Federated might mean for Neiman’s. According to revenues for the quarter were $162 million. In its “other” Tansky, “Our position won’t change at all. We are at the category, which includes Kate Spade and Laura Mercier, very top, the most affluent customer, that’s our niche. It sales rose 16 percent to $29 million from $25 million. will have no impact on us. We are a very intense observer Shares of Neiman Marcus gained 82 cents in trading of the scene and are very interested in how all that will on Wednesday to close at $74.07 on the New York Stock play out.” Exchange. The shares hit a new 52-week high in intraday The May-Federated merger is For now, Neiman’s is keeping busy opening new stores, trading at $74.90. with units coming in San Antonio, Tex., and Boca Raton, Addressing the major shift in the retail landscape this “in its infancy. We are watching Fla., this year. In fall 2006, the company is set to open in week with the $17 billion deal for Federated to buy May Charlotte, N.C., and Austin, Tex. The company also plans Department Stores Co., Tansky told analysts that it with great intensity to see if to open a store in a western suburb of Boston in 2007. Neiman’s was keeping tabs on the merger. As for the direct-marketing operation, the company “The May-Federated merger is in its infancy. We are there’s any opportunity that plans more designer boutiques on its Web site. Referred watching it with great intensity to see if there’s any oppor- to as sitelets, the company already operates two, tunity that will surface. We [would be] interested in the will surface. Ferragamo and David Yurman. The purpose of increasing most important sites….We have a very disciplined, very ” the sitelets is to provide advertising for both Neiman thought-out expansion plan,” the ceo said. — Burt Tansky, The Neiman Marcus Group Marcus and its vendor partners, Tansky said. As for Neiman’s business, Tansky said strong sellers in the quarter were women’s Tansky didn’t say much about the company’s smaller-brand segments. Laura Mercier handbags, “driven by an explosion of color.” He added that contemporary sportswear, has “improved this quarter,” while Kate Spade is focused on expanding the brand complimented by denim and embellished jeans, did well. On the accessories front, through new licensing opportunities, he explained. The Kate Spade operation had dis- ponchos and designer jewelry did well, too. tribution issues in the quarter, which negatively impacted quarterly results, Tansky told The ceo said he is “very encouraged by early sales performance of resort merchandise.” analysts, but added that management at Kate Spade believed they’ve resolved the The company said separately that February revenues rose 6.5 percent to $275 mil- issues. He added that so far there’s been “positive response to spring merchandise.” lion from $258 million, with comps up 7.7 percent to $273 million from $254 million. “We are off to a great start,” said Tansky, who one flattering analyst noted on the call Based on early response to spring merchandise, Tansky said that third-quarter comps should be called “Mr. Luxury.” WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 21 WWD.COM The Lure of Creativity Price is Paramount at Shows By Rosemary Feitelberg By Marc Karimzadeh French label Moloko is coming to the U.S. NEW YORK — Even women shopping for $3,000 evening gowns are NEW YORK — When fashion competes with iPods apparently pinching pennies. and flat-screen TVs for the consumer’s attention, it At least, that was the consensus among resources at two hotel trade takes a little more creativity than usual to emerge a shows — Designers at the Essex House and International American winner. Designers at the Waldorf-Astoria — that closed here Tuesday. Several exhibitors at the Atelier Designers, Pacific Jeffrey Moss, sales director for the red-carpet-inspired Kevan Hall Designer Collection and Nouveau Collective hotel label, said, “They’re not spending like they used to. They’re not doing trade shows this week seem to have taken this point to the $10,000 gown anymore.” heart and added creative touches to their designs with That said, there was a lot of interest in Kevan Hall’s pale yellow hopes to beat the competition, come fall. duchess satin dress wholesaling for $690 and a coral-colored satin back “The trends are going increasingly architectural crepe gown with jeweled straps at $1,270. and the shapes are becoming more important, more Moss also noted that women are buying their glitzy attire much closer refined,” said Jill Heppenheimer, co-owner of Santa Fe to their big events, and that often warrants a 10 to 20 percent “rush” Weaving Gallery in Santa Fe, N.M., who shopped the charge, depending on the designer. Atelier, Designer Pacific and Coterie shows. “Asia and At Tina Di Martina, chief executive officer Europe are having more of an influence, which I am and designer Lisa Fraum and sales repre- happy to see, because it is a more sophisticated look to sentative Carolee Schecter noticed “people a lot of what we have seen in the past.” are really watching prices.” With most gowns Trends on tap included boiled-wool coats cut in wholesaling between $650 and $850, the unusual angles to pleats in unexpected places, tie- Huntington, N.Y.-based company talked up dyes, colorful embroidered skirts and textured metal- its pricing. lic coats. Retailers and vendors are hopeful that, “We try to keep things at $1,500 at retail,” come fall, these looks will convince consumers to Fraum said. “There are much more expensive spend more on apparel. gowns out there. But the customer [who is will- “If it hadn’t been for the week after New Year’s, I ing to] spend $2,000 will spend anything.” would have said it was a miserable fourth quarter, Rita Mezrahi, owner and creative direc- but in the end, the consumers showed up and spent tor of Claire’s Collections, said business has money,” Heppenheimer said. “I read that people are buying electronics and not apparel, and if slipped because of increased competition. they are buying apparel, it’s much more disposable. They are not wardrobe building.” “It’s not the economy,’’ she said. “It’s that Stacy Esser, vice president of sales at Bill Burns, an exhibitor at Nouveau Collective, agreed. “I am people have too many choices.” consistently told that the fourth quarter was tough,” she said. “There just wasn’t enough traffic and peo- To try to keep up with the competition ple were spending more on iPods and flat screens, which hurt apparel.” and the plethora of options offered to A look from Eavis & Brown. For the most part, many of the smaller labels at these shows catered to niche retailers, which shoppers, the Los Angeles-based special-occasion company offers 20 to ranged from mom-and-pop boutiques to arts-and-crafts specialty stores nationwide. 30 different fabrics. Further complicating the equation is that color is “There were some new stores, and a lot of the regular stores came,” said designer Ann coming back, as evidenced by the dresses worn at the Oscars. McKenna, whose knitwear company is based in Larkspur, Calif. “It’s not like it was before Sept. 11, Mezrahi noted that women shopping for dresses for a child’s bar but I feel it’s coming back. Florida stores seem to be doing really well, and that’s a good sign of mitzvah or wedding “want a dress other people wouldn’t wear.” But things coming back.” even they are getting gun-shy about the expense. McKenna noted that stores are usually looking for immediate deliveries, but not so this time “When someone says to me they don’t want to spend that much on a when the lion’s share of her orders were for fall. dress, I say, ‘What about the flowers or the food? That won’t last. At least “In the past, half of my orders were reorders, but now I see my stores are stocking more,” the dress you can look at in pictures.’ ” McKenna said. “It seems they have more open-to-buy for fall, and I didn't see any price resistance.” At the Waldorf, Caroline Eavis, designer of London-based Eavis & Merch Mashiah, owner of Berlin-based Mashiah Arrive, said that the strength of the euro Brown, saw price resistance of another kind because of currency prompted him to increase U.S. dollar prices by 5 percent. “Stores may notice the change in price, exchange rates. but they will still buy it if they like it,” he said. “I could sell an awful lot more, if my prices weren’t 30 percent In the U.S. for the first time, French label Moloko showcased knit pieces in a brown, black and bur- more,” she said. “The dollar is the problem. When a dress goes from gundy palette at Atelier. Looks included Victorian-inspired suits with gathered shoulders and decon- $5,000 to $6,000, that makes people pause.” structed boiled-wool skirts. Moloko has four stores in Paris, and it is now being launched in the U.S. Given that, Eavis & Brown’s multicolored beaded floor-length gown through Global Apparel Management. Moloko’s wholesale prices range from $60 for blouses to $450 for at $2,000 was a hit with buyers. coats, with fall distribution aimed at about 30 specialty boutiques. Fall sales projections are between Executives from Charles and Patricia Lester, a Wales-based wear- $300,000 and $400,000, according to Emanuel Fresko, chief executive officer at Global Apparel able art label, met with other Waldorf exhibitors to brainstorm about Management, which also showed Crea Concept, Renato Nucci and Blanc Nature at Nouveau Collective. creative ideas since exchange rates are problematic. The company, Brigitte Conti, designer at Manouche, Old Greenwich, Conn.-based designer line, showed shirts which outfitted Lauren Bacall for “These Foolish Things,” a movie in distorted jersey fabrics with wholesale prices ranging from $60 for an apron to $150 for a being released this year, and has designed costumes for Opera Holland kimono. Conti said she had lowered prices from last season. “I worked on my prices, knowing that Park in the U.K., is thinking more along those lines. I will have more quantity so I can get better prices,” Conti said. Georgina Lester, the founders’ daughter, explained the exposure The Atelier Designers and Pacific Designer Collection were held at the Rihga Royal Hotel from such endeavors is unmatched: “A two-hour opera is better than Saturday through Monday. The Nouveau Collective wrapped up its four-day run at The Park Central any fashion show,” she said. Hotel on Tuesday.

Scott Edmonds, chief executive officer of Chico’s, Thomas Pink Chico’s FAS Keeps Rolling said on a conference call with analysts and investors that the company would open 110 to 120 new stores in By Meredith Derby 2005 and expand or relocate another 20 to 30. About 40 Follows the Sun to 45 of the stores will be White House|Black Market NEW YORK — Women’s specialty retailer Chico’s FAS stores and 65 to 70 will be under the Chico’s brand. NEW YORK — Thomas Pink, the London-based had another record quarter and full year and has plans “As for Soma, we are pleased with the initial results shirtmaker, is moving into sunnier states. to open more than 100 stores. as we continue to evaluate and develop our merchan- The company will open stores in Los Angeles The Fort Myers, Fla.-based company on Wednesday dise mix and customer acceptance,” Edmonds said. and Bal Harbour, Fla., in June, upping its store reported double-digit percentage increases in profits “Therefore, we plan to open up to six new Soma stores count in the U.S. to 15. and sales in the fourth quarter, as revenues in the year during fiscal 2005.” The company had opened its first 10 Staffers in the new stores will be at the ready surpassed the $1 billion mark for the first time and Soma stores, which carry intimate apparel, in 2004. with monogramming, alterations, hotel deliveries annual same-store sales rose in the double digits for the In full-year 2004, Chico’s earned $141.2 million, or and other “Pink Perks.” Established in England in eighth consecutive year. 78 cents a diluted share, compared with $100.2 million, 1984, Thomas Pink has made a name for itself with Earnings in the 13 weeks ended Jan. 29 were $33 mil- or 57 cents, in 2003. Adding back the 2 cent lease- its crisp, colorful button-down shirts, shrimp-col- lion, or 18 cents a diluted share, compared with $25.6 change charge, earnings in 2004 met analysts’ esti- ored boxes and snap-to-it service. The brand first million, or 14 cents, a year ago. Results in the quarter mates for 80 cents. opened here with a Madison Avenue store in 1997. included a noncash charge of 2 cents to account for Annual revenues were $1.1 billion, versus $768.5 mil- Thomas Pink is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy changes to store lease accounting. lion in 2003, while same-store sales at company-owned Louis Vuitton, but the conglomerate is said to be Excluding the charge, earnings per share met ana- locations rose 12.9 percent. looking for a buyer for the shirt brand. lysts’ profit estimates for 20 cents. Separately, the company said February same-store To accent its roots, the new stores — a 1,600- Quarterly revenues rose 32.5 percent to $285.6 mil- sales increased 9.2 percent, while total sales in the square-foot store in Westfield Shoppingtown lion from $215.5 million. By division, Chico’s and Soma month went up 24.2 percent to $83.5 million. Century City and a 1,500-square-foot store in The by Chico’s combined sales were up 27.1 percent at $231 Chico’s owns 454 Chico’s stores, 25 Chico’s outlet Bal Harbour Shops — will both have gold mesh million, while sales at White House|Black Market stores, 163 White House|Black market stores, four light fixtures encrusted with shirt buttons and totaled $45 million, up 71.8 percent. Same-store sales White House|Black Market outlet stores and 10 Soma English burnt oak furnishings. were up 12.9 percent. by Chico’s stores. 22 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005

SPORTSWEAR

36th St. Showroom-Offices-Brand New DESIGNER 900, 1500, 2200, 3500, 8000 We are seeking a dynamic, All Sizes-Hot Lofts-Low Prices Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 talented design pro with 4-7 yrs. Loro Piana, a leader in the manufacturing & distribution of exp. to join our Boston staff de- the finest quality textiles, ready to wear & accessories has out- signing for a major public moderate standing opportunities available in their US wholesale division: contemporary co. Must have background in updated knits and LOGISTICS COORDINATOR wovens for pants, skirts and jkts. The ideal candidate will have a minimum of 3 yrs exp in Must be able to shop stores for supervising & directing logistics in a luxury wholesale the newest trends. Strong environ. Resp. will include assuming total responsibility for knowledge of fabrics and an all shipping related invoices; coordinating movement of understanding of development goods through US customers; maintaining client files; & time lines. Must be able to show managing inventory for sample collection. Must have excell. collections to store buyers. interpersonal, communication, & computer skills. Excellent salary and benefits. Fax resume to HR: CLIENT SERVICES 617-332-3260 The ideal candidate will have a min. of 2 yrs exp in a luxury 246 Mulberry Street-Nolita Midtown ladies garment importer seeks 2,000 sq. ft Retail Space retail/wholesale environ. Responsibilities will include providing candidates for the following positions: Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 internal support for sales team; developing & maintaining relationships with customers; entering orders & ASST. TECH DESIGNER www.dumann.com Must have 3-4 years Tech exp. and be assisting in showroom activities. Strong computer skills req. able to handle tech packages in missy, For Space in Garment Center large and petite. Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Please submit resumes with salary requirements to: ASSOCIATE DESIGNER 212-880-0414 Designer Designers Wanted Must have 4-6 years experiences in Email: [email protected] 1. Updated Missy Sportswear Women’s sportswear. Overseas produc- Fax: 212 826-2302 Assistant Technical 2. Junior Denims tion skills preferred. Expanding private label company seek- ASSOC. PRODUCTION Showrooms & Lofts Designer ing creative and organized individuals to BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS design from concept to finished product. Must have 4-6 yrs. exp. Women’s sports- wear and overseas production skills. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Amerex Group currently has an exciting Must be proficient in Illustrator and ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Photoshop. Must be able to work in a We offer a great working environment, ROUSSO APPAREL opportunity available for an Assistant high pay and full company benefits! Technical Designer. This position fast paced environment & be a team NEW DIVISION player. Pls email resume to: Fax resume with salary requirements to: DESIGNER involves working with the Senior Tech 212-730-5159 Young jr/Contemp Designer and participating with the [email protected] Designer and Merchandising Team to MERCHANDISER Activewear develop the correct look, balance and fit Designer to 125K current exp in moderate Leading women’s apparel co. is We are looking for seas- on Outerwear Apparel. The successful priced women’s full fashion sweaters + Operations Coordinator candidate will have a knowledge of knits. Well known branded co. Proficient seeking a dynamic designer with oned people to start a new in Illustrator. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Outerwear Mfr. seeks highly motivated 5-10 yrs exp. to join our New York patterns, sewing and grading. Good Operations Coordinator. Position will OFFICE SPACE/SHOWROOM division. Must have min 10 communication skills, knowledge of encompass working directly with Sales $1500 per mo. 501 Seventh Avenue design staff. Designing for a major Word, Excel and Illustrator and at least &DesignDepts. Experience w/Walmart (Corner 37th & 7th Ave). Looking to yrs in jr or contemp mkt public contemporary co. Candidate with contacts. one year of experience in the apparel DESIGNER Retaillink and Target systems a must. share space with est. women’s accessory must have a strong background field with some skills in the mentioned Watch experience preferred, but not es- Should be analytical, organized and co. Call Orly: 212-719-9127 1. Division Head / areas required. Being a team player and sential. Strong knowledge of women’s proficient in MS Word & Excel. Seeking in update knits and wovens for having the willingness to grow are also Merchandiser / Seller fashion. Trend forward. Knowledge of team player. 2 years market experience pants, skirts and jackets and essential as this person will learn to be mid-tier & mass distribution channels. req’d. Offering competitive salary with strong knowledge of prints and 2. Head Designer proficient in communicating and creating Salary commensurate with experience. benefits. Please Fax all resumes to 3. Production Mgr detailed technical packages for overseas Email resume to: [email protected] Caryn at: 212-819-0546 fabrics. Must be able to shop sampling and production. Qualified stores for the newest trends and 4. Account Mgr candidates should forward resumes, Please send resume: including salary requirements, to: Human Design/Knitwear Assistant have an understanding of devel- Resources at [email protected] or Patternmaker 212-380-2383 Republic Clothing is looking for an opment time lines. Must be able Fax to: 732-499-8529. EOE. asst w/sweater background. Must be 3+ years experience in Knits and Wovens. to show collections to buyers. well organized, have excellent flat First pattern through final pattern. Excellent Salary and Benefits Designer Associates sketching skills, computer literate KNITS AND WOVENS w/knowledge of Photoshop & Illustra- Production Asst Fax Resume HR: tor. Responsibilities include specs, fit- Organized individual with good computer CONTROLLER Energetic private label women’s division and follow up skills. 212-827-0897 Successful candidate will support the ting, sourcing & communication seeks strong candidates w/ at least 3 w/overseas production team. Min 3-5 C.E.O and will be responsible for timely yrs. exp. to join our dynamic design Both positions need to be bilingual PATTERN/SAMPLES preparation of financial reports, budget, yrs. exp req’d. Competitive salary w/ team. Must have great flat sketch good benefit pkg. Team players only English and Chinese. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast planning, payroll, inventory, factor, day skills w/ understanding of specs, gar- Fax Resume with Salary Req. to work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 to day operations, relationships with fax resume: 212-302-4823 or e-mail ment construction & lab dip approvals. [email protected] 917-510-9448 Attn. Rebecca vendors, auditors, bankers and lawyers. We want talent with trend-right eye Must be hands-on and have knowledge that can shop fabric trim & print market, ANALYSTS in Corp. and individual taxes, good man- PATTERN MAKER/COUTURE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, as well as, multi-task, organize & com- Exp’d well organized, team player. Major denim brand company has im- agement skills, and apparel experience. municate w/ overseas. Knowledge of Executive Sales Asst PRODUCTIONS mediate opportunities for Analysts in Retail experience preferred. Excellent Wholesale apparel company seeking Draping & creating from sketch a must. Photoshop & Illustrator key. Public co. Full & part time positions available. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. our Men’s and Women’s Division. Can- opportunity for right individual! Please w/ benefits. Fax resume to: energetic, highly motivated indiv. with Call Sherry 212-719-0622. didates will be responsible for providing fax resume with salary requirements to: computer skills. Potential for growth. Fax: (212) 481-1968 selling analysis, monitoring retail per- Catherine Malandrino Human Resources 212-556-5431 Fax resume 212-481-4229 formance and trending. Must be capable (212) 840-3630 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, of creating management level reporting, PATTERNMAKER margin analysis and communicating FABRIC COORDINATOR these results within the company. The Established N.Y. based premium denim PRODUCTIONS DESIGNER HEAD Wmn’s better apparel company seeking line is seeking a 5+ years experienced Full servcie shop to the trade. ideal candidate must be proficient in Cynthia Steffe Designer house seeks designer with fabric coordinator with 3+ yrs experience. Excel and have good analytical and Patternmaker with extensive knowledge Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. PATTERNMAKERS sound designing collection. Fashion Duties include sourcing woven & knit in denim and sportswear. communication skills. Minimum of 3-5 Leading contemporary firm seeks highly show exp. Detail oriented. Fax resume fabrics, lab dips, print & embroidery years experience in wholesale or retail Please fax resume to: (212) 675-4308 skilled patternmakers to develop first with cover letter to: 212-869-4043 submits & overseas communications. or Email: [email protected] PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD fashions, Sales Analyst or Retail Asst. patterns through production. Must be Fax resume Attn: Tad 212-921-4913 Buyer recommended. able to work from designer’s sketches. High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Please fax resume to: (646) 459-2633 sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Minimum 7 years experience - all others or Email: [email protected] need not apply. Please fax resume attn. DESIGNER FASHION OPPORTUNITIES Patternmaker-Production Tara @ (212) 302-1254 NY based costume jewelry importer Artists - Designers - Merchandisers - Designer collection seeks production looking for Designer. Must have Production - Sales - Technical - Etc. pattern maker. 5-10 yrs exp in evening BUYER costume jewelry design experience. Call Barbara Murphy (212) 643-8090 (agcy) and separates. Please fax resumes to: Salary, benefit plus 401K. Please email 212-268-1279 DATA ENTRY or fax: [email protected] or 309-273-9570 Dress/Sportswear Co. seeks person with Get Started in Fashion PATTERNMAKER/ extensive knowledge of AS400 Operat- RECEPTIONIST - SALES ing system and strong EDI experience. Designer/Product Devel $125-150K. Seeking ambitious recent graduate to TECH DESIGNER Please Fax resume to: 212-768-1301 Current exp in young mens denim bot- work with up & coming Cut & Sew Knit Fast paced sportswear company seeks APPAREL BUYER toms. Strong knowledge of denim Co. Friendly surroundings. Computer individual with 2-4 years exp. Must be South Moon Under, a fashion forward washes. Travel to China wash facilities. skills req’d. Please call or Fax resume to: able to develop new specs, full graded company that offers an eclectic mix of Branded Co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Tel: 212-730-0101 / Fax: 212-730-2556 &construction specification for women, men’s & women’s clothing, swimwear, DATA ENTRY kids, plus sizes and men; do fit approval; accessories, jewelry and gifts for the High level fashion co. seeks individual make comments for all categories and Administrative Assistant home is currently seeking an experi- with fashion background and strong do technical sketches. Should be able For Head of Sales at est’d manufacturer experise on AS400. Heavy inputting. Marketing Executive enced Apparel Buyer who will join the DESIGNER Leading men’s and women’s urban lifestyle to make and correct paper pattern. of branded and private label clothing. existing team responsible for selecting Excellent benefits including 401(k). Computer skills a must. Fax resume to: Strong communication, computer and Fax resume to: (212) 564-6353 Rapidly expanding Jr. to Contemporary apparel company seeks an experienced and managing the process for a grow- Outerwear/Leather Co. offers a growth marketing executive to oversee all 212-730-1529 organizational skills are required. Must ing specialty retailer with 9 locations. be able to multi-task and help out during opportunity for a Designer w/minimum 5 marketing functions. This key executive This position is located at our Berlin, years experience as Head Designer. Must needs to have 7-10 years experience in busy market weeks and the corresponding MD Home Office. The Buyer travels follow-up. 2+ years experience. Data Entry/Order Processing be creative & innovative w/full knowledge managing all aspects of marketing, along PATTERNMAKER extensively and frequently to NYC and of sourcing & technicals. Fax/E-mail to: with a strong background in brand Women’s private label sportswear com- Please fax resume to: (212) 221-8135 other markets to select the best products Long Island warehouse seeks detailed & hardworking person for data entry. 212-921-8076 / [email protected] building through strategic planning. pany seeking design patternmaker. for the South Moon Under customer. Fax resumes to: HR 212-563-0581 Work closely with designer - real team See our website for more details: Strong follow-up, Microsoft Office ADMIN SINCE 1967 and Excel skills a MUST. player. Ability to work from sketch www.southmoonunder.com or fax your and specs. Knowledge in knits and W-I-N-S-T-O-N resume to 410-641-3725 attn: Human Please fax resume to: (516) 501-0416 or E-mail: [email protected] DESIGNER wovens. Pls fax resume to Enrique Resources. E.O.E. 718-729-3699 APPAREL STAFFING Successful women’s private label division DESIGN * SALES * MERCH seeks hyper talented designer w/ junior ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION market background to design branded Merchandiser/Designer (212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437 PRINT & PATTERN ARTIST $45K Design Assistant/Associate collection that is European inspired. Junior knitwear company seeks dynamic Strike Off & Repeats Sweater company seeks motivated, eager Must have great taste level w/ versatility merchandiser/designer to join our team. [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Buyer tolearn person who is able to work in- in wovens, knits, sweaters & denim, as Ideal candidate will have exp. in Jr. cut & ALLOCATOR-SHIPPING Top Notch Trim Buyer dependently to join our team. A fabulous well as eye for print & color. Need artic- sew knits as well as sweaters. You must Contemp design co seeks detailed, growth opportunity for the right person. ulate team player w/ excellent flat sketch be able to identify emerging trends & ACCOUNTS PAYABLE high energy, focused person to order Must have knowledge of Adobe Illustrator &garment construction skills. Will be pro- have a proven track record from design Product Development Contemporary design co has 2 pos. and manage all production trim. Min 2 &Photoshop, capable of creating inspi- active in fittings, fabric research & daily devel. to retail sell through. Resp. incl: Costume Jewelry and gift company Allocator must have min 2 yrs exp w/ yrs exp req’d. in dom/overseas. Must ration boards, flat sketching & generating communication w/ overseas offices. Or- merchandising, trend direction, retail seeking asst w/ 1-2 years exp developing Apparel billing sys & AP must have negotiate $, manage T&A cal, be VERY specs. Must be organized, detail oriented & ganizational ability to multi-task along market research, strategic planning & gift product with overseas factories. min 2 yrs exp w/QB. Must be neat, organized. Strong comp/Excel & math able to go with the flow. Queens location. w/ knowledge of Photoshop & Illustrator presentations. Min. 5 yrs. exp. Market Photoshop and Illustrator & ability to org. & accurate. Pls e-mail resume: req’d. If you meet ALL Above req’s, pls Fax: (718) 418-9354, attn. EXTS or are essential. Public co. w/ benefits. contacts are a plus. E-mail resume to: flat sketch. Trendy, fun work environment. [email protected] e-mail res: [email protected] Email: [email protected] FAX resumes 212-556-5431 [email protected] email:[email protected] WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 23 WWD.COM Donna Hanover’s Tale: Love Reunited would have some lonely times TV about how she had reunited Hanover believes there are psy- By Arthur Friedman Donna because I know so many fabu- with junior high school sweet- chological and biological forces Hanover NEW YORK — Donna Hanover lous women who have had trou- heart Harry Kullijian, when they at work when couples reunite. is proof that life takes interest- ble finding a good guy,” she said. were in their 80s. He also knew “There’s a sense that you can ing twists. The person on the phone said, about Hanover’s marriage and trust this person, the fact that you Hanover, the first lady of New “Donna, it’s Ed. Ed Oster. I was about her experience as a broad- have kind of an entwined identi- York City from 1994 to 2001, lived wondering if you’re planning to cast and magazine writer. ty” that helps bring people to- though a high-profile marriage go to the Stanford reunion?’’ Hanover said she decided to gether. And the Internet is mak- and divorce to former Mayor Oster “was my high school write the book because “I know ing it easier to find lost loves. Rudolph Giuliani and has learned love,” Hanover recalled in the so many fabulous women, A complication that many re- some lessons on the road to her book and in a recent interview. they’re smart, they’re funny, united couples face is geograph- first book, “My Boyfriend’s Back: “He was also my college love until they’re high achievers and ic incompatibility, which is the True Stories of Rediscovering he broke my heart. I re- they’re alone. I thought ‘I want case with Hanover and Oster. Love With a Long-Lost member thinking to people to know about this.’ ’’ Their marriage is bicoastal. Sweetheart” (Hudson myself that I hoped it The book is organized journal- “We have long weekends Street Press, $13.95). wasn’t a call about istically: interviews with a lot of every weekend and sometimes Hanover, 55, forged Arts fund-raising.” people who rekindled old loves, he’s able to stay for a week,” she a career as a news an- It wasn’t. Oster analysis and conclusions about ing listeners to contact her if said. “Vacations you’re together. chor, talk-show host had read about what was learned. The approach they had a story of reunited love. You’re constantly looking at the and actress during her Hanover’s divorce was natural for Hanover, who has “I also used the girlfriend net- calendar and figuring out flight marriage, while raising &and curiosity took spent most of her career in the work,” Hanover said, noting she times. Once in awhile it’s a little two children, Andrew over. He was also di- media. She was a news anchor contacted friends around the arduous. There’s a lot of e-mail- and Caroline. But her bit- People vorced, had three for WPIX-TV in New York from country and asked then to get the ing and lots on the phone.” ter and public divorce in 2002 grown daughters and was 1983 to 1990, then moved to Fox word out. “That’s how I found a Hanover is continuing her left her wondering about her living in Newport Beach, Calif, 5’s “Good Day New York” and lot of the couples. Plus, I wanted career, aiming for a sixth season life’s direction. where he practiced law. After a “Good Day Sunday” shows, and it to be geographically diverse.” on the syndicated TV show A month after the divorce be- few dates their love was rekindled has been the host of “In Food Among the couples in the “Fine Living: Famous Homes & came final, Hanover was trying and they married Aug. 3, 2003. Today” on the Food Network and book are actors Suzanne Hideaways.” to adjust to being a single, work- Hanover said the idea for the “House Beautiful” on A&E. Pleshette and Tom Poston, She has also set up a Web site, ing mother. She wasn’t expect- book came from David Shanks, Hanover noted that she met sportscaster Scott Clark and myboyfriendsback.com, so the ing to remarry. Then the phone chief executive officer at the couples in different ways, in- junior high flame Heather Lynn process can continue to be docu- rang on a hot August day. Penguin Books, after he saw cluding going on the “Joan and designer Nicole Miller and mented and to inspire people to “I really anticipated that I Carol Channing interviewed on Hamburg” radio show and ask- husband Kim Taipale. pursue an old flame.

SALES PRO WTD. Better missy sweater & knitwear co. seeks Designer-Active/Swim PRO with min. 5 yrs. exp. with Dept. & Must be disciplined, technically Specialty stores. Please send resume to: sound with the ability to work w/ fit Attn. Charman @ Fax: (212) 302-7672 models & patternmakers. Self starter with illustration and computer skills Groupe Zannier world leader in Children’s wear is looking and the ability to communicate for motivated and enthusiastic Sales Executives for its New Schiffli Embroidery well with senior management. York showroom. Candidates must have excellent sales and Old line vertical embroidery firm wants Experience designing branded experienced salesperson to cover linge- communication skills. Computer literate a must. rie and children manufacturers. activewear or swimwear preferred. E-mail resume, Attn: Marvin: Top tiered apparel company in Groupe Zannier is also looking for Sales Associates for its [email protected] Southern California. new Madison Avenue store location. Please email resumes to: Great benefits package! [email protected] Please email your resume to [email protected] PRIVATE LABEL Showroom Manager GARMENT SALES MANAGER Required for bridal designers Michelle COUTURE SALES New York based company seeks highly Experienced store manager required QUALITY CONTROL Roth and Henry Roth. Minimum 5 yrs. Couture Atelier seeking expert sales experienced aggressive seller for garment for new contemporary boutique open- direct experience. Responsibilities representative with a strong clientele production. Must have strong established ing in the Meatpacking district. Please include day to day running of the show- following. Please fax resume to contacts with major retail / apparel Production SUPERVISOR FAX your resume to 212-255-1596 or Growing domestic/import manufacturer room, trunk show & trade show prepa- (212) 239-3432 manufacturers. Men’s / Women’s wear - E-mail: [email protected] ASST PROD’N COORD seeks individual to develop, implement rations, customer service & appointment all categories. Position offers salary/ com- Licensed Apparel Co. seeks a highly and maintain systems to ensure com- scheduling. Strong communication mission opptys. Please send resume in organized & detail oriented individual to pliance with customer quality standards skills, detail oriented &exceptional confidence, attention Gloria Rooks @ ®ulations. Will also interface with organizational skills. Email resumes to: David Meister Dresses Fax: (212) 868-3717 work in fast paced environment. Must SALES EXECUTIVE have solid time management & follow other departments. Qualified candidates [email protected] will be aggressive, have good communi- This exceptional NYC based Sales Exec. through skills. Self motivated & strong will handle key specialty store accounts *Sales Exec/Rep* initiative. Outstanding computer skills. cation and computer skills, have at least Established import company seeks 2-5 years experience in a manufacturing to include responsibility for the Dallas 1 year experience. Salary 30k, employee Market. Candidate MUST have a mini- aggressive/exp’d sales executive to sell friendly with full company benefits. environment. Bilingual Spanish amust. moderately priced woven missy/plus Please email resume & salary reqs. to: mum of four years experience working Fax resume attn: Mandi Franco with better stores. Proficiency with Excel line. Must have strong est’d contacts 212-944-1181 [email protected] TECHNICAL DESIGNER w/mass merchants. Also seeking exp’d Retail Careers Weareseeking a highly organized and &Wordisrequired. Please send resume Join the leader in luxury retail! Our & a persuasive cover letter to: sales reps for road sales and trade detailed individual with 3-5 years expe- shows in various regions. Newport Beach, California Fashion Island PRODUCTION Receptionist/Fit Model rience in Technical Design to join our Email: [email protected] store has undergone a renovation and For Midtown denim manufacturer. BOSTON staff for a major public moderate Fax/email resume: 212-768-0811 expansion that has provided amazing COORDINATOR Duties to include basic clerical tasks, [email protected] Ladies Accessories Co. seeks Prod. contemporary company. Experience opportunities! We have commissioned showroom reception & assisting during with preparing tech packs for overseas sales associate positions in cosmetics, Coordinator with good communication market weeks as fit model. Measurement: DENIM SALES and computer skills. No travel factories is a must plus pre-production Mfr. w/ Broadway showroom seeks fine apparel, men’s and women’s RTW, 5’7”, size 8 - Bust 36 1/2, Waist 29 1/4 , Hip 39 1/4 fittings and follow through with our and cosmetics product specialist positions. required. Fax at 212-643-0684 Please fax resume to: (212) 221-8135 salesperson. Prior exp. selling denim design team. Will be responsible for garments to retail stores a must. SALES EXECUTIVE Don’t wait - you want to be part of the P M D the approval of fit garments. Excellent Fax resume to 212-967-6188 upcoming grand re-opening! RODUCTION GR/ IRECTOR RECEPTIONIST salary & benefits. Junior knitwear co seeks upbeat and High-end women’s designer company motivated sales executive with strong Please fax your resume to: looking for a production pro. Extremely Immediate opening for receptionist Fax HR: 617-332-3260 (949) 467-3348 or call (949)467-3310 position, 5 days, 9-7. Resp for answer- sales ability, a proven track record and detail oriented. Responsibilities include established relationships with specialty inventory planning, tracking & sched- ing busy multi-line phones & a variety of word processing & office tasks. Dickies Girl NYC and department stores. Min 5 years exp. uling & negotiating prices for bulk pro- Excellent opportunity for growth. in junior market. Salary + commission. duction fabric. Complete ownership of Good organizational skills & ability to multi-task a must. E-mail resume to: Road & Showroom Sales w/ car contact: E-mail resumes to: the production process from start to [email protected] [email protected] finish of garment. No travel required. [email protected] Pls fax resume to 212-921-2850, attn: WOVEN PRODUCT SALES EXECUTIVE (KNITWEAR) Production position Receptionist/Order Entry MANAGER Established knitwear co. seeks motivated Busy midtown showroom seeks exp’d, Moderate Ladies sportswear Co. doing sales executive w/ proven track record Production/Tech Asst. detail oriented team player to answer private label seeks exp’d individual to &established relationships w/ Dept. & Est’d Jr. sptswr. impt. co. seeks a highly phones, order entry and assist with be the liaison between design, tech, specialty stores. Salary plus commission. motivated indiv. w/ 2-3 yrs. exp. in ladies various other duties. fabric, and production. Experience co- Off Price Sales E-mail: [email protected] fashion mfg. Qualified candidates must Please fax resume to: (212) 643-1040 ordinating product development, cost- Men’s and Children’s Off Price whole- be able to spec garments, handle live ing, and handling private label production saler seeks salespeople to solicit the Sales Pro model fittings, send fit comments, con- Shipping/Warehouse Asst. Mgr amust. Thoroughly knowledgeable of the off price trade. Some experience neces- Updated missy sportswear co. seeks Apparel Executive duct daily correspondence w/ overseas Proficiency in EDI, supervision of pick & development sourcing process and be able sary and knowledge of computers are exp’d sales person to maintain and Operations, Sourcing, Distribution, factories. Must be detail oriented, well pack crew, staying abreast of customers to negotiate costs. Understand garment preferred. Salary/commission package grow business, aggressive w/ ability to Manufacturing and Finance executive organized & have strong computer skills. requirements. Ability to multi-task & construction a must. Need 5 years plus ex- commensurate w/ exp and following. cultivate new accounts. seeking either full time or part time Pls. fax resume to: (212) 921-0984 or communicate. Strong computer skills. perience in woven product. Please call or e-mail with any questions Fax resume to: 212-391-1530 employment opportunity. Email: [email protected] Email:[email protected] Fax resume to 212-730-0913 212-239-6563 [email protected] or email: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] 24 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 3, 2005 WWW.WWD.COM Cause Celeb BEVERLY HILLS — Perhaps it was the presence of Tom Ford in the audience, but Saks Fifth Avenue’s Unforgettable eye® Evening cancer benefit on Tuesday night — usually so forgettable fashion- wise — made a major style statement this year. It also could have been the heightened fash- ionista status of co-founder Jamie Tisch since becom- ing a Manhattan transfer last year, or Hollywood’s col- lective sigh to finally be finished with all those Oscar loaners. This gazillionaire crowd was much more in the “I bought it” camp than the “I borrowed it” one. Robin Williams with Lance Armstrong and Rita Wilson and Kelly Lynch both showed up in Sheryl Crow, both in Givenchy. the same 12-year-old Richard Tyler slipdress, and fresh Angeleno socials Colleen Bell and Gwen McCaw mined their wardrobes for a new Lanvin dress and a vintage Yves Saint Laurent smoking, respectively. Lisa Kudrow, usually so tame, made a va-va-voom transformation in a J. Mendel sheath that Tisch chose for her personally. Marchesa duo Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman arrived with Claudia Schiffer in their gown. Even Ford showed up in new duds that he’d designed, albeit for him- self only — a teal velvet tux he had his London tai- lor stitch up from his sketch. “It’s Tom Ford for Tom Ford,” he quipped. Barbara Davis and Kelly Meyer, a co-founder, with Tisch, of Entertainment Industry Foundation’s Rita Wilson in Richard Tyler Women’s Cancer Research Fund, like many other with Tom Ford (in Tom Ford). with Tom Ford (in Tom Ford). Steve and Jamie guests, pulled their own ample jewels to wear that Steve and Jamie Tisch in J. Mendel. night. Of course, since this year’s honoree was Lance Tisch in J. Mendel. Gwen McCaw in Yves Saint Laurent, Armstrong, the room was filled with more yellow Hilary plastic LiveStrong bracelets than anything else. Colleen Bell in Lanvin and Crystal Tisch in Lourd in Craig Natiello. “I agonized over what jewels to wear Chloé. tonight,” said Armstrong’s girlfriend Sheryl Crow. “Then I come here and we’re all wearing the same damn accessory!” The cyclist stayed a half-hour after the event ended to sign nearly all of them. “Women have made it cool to talk about breasts and ovaries, so I’m trying to do the same for testicles and prostates, but it’s not so easy,” he said. Armstrong’s moving, unscripted speech left the Hollywood crowd breathless and teary, prompting some to remark that Oscar night speeches paled in comparison. But, of course, the Hollywood machine is always churning — “Million Dollar Baby” produc- er Al Ruddy, still on cloud nine with his wife, Giorgio Armani’s Wanda McDaniel, received continual slaps on the back, while movie moguls were quick to out- bid each other for an Armstrong-signed racing bike and a ride with the Tour de France champ and his pal Robin Williams. The price tag escalated to $70,000. Tisch acted fast: “We actually have two bikes!” she erupted. Five seconds later, auctioneer To m Hanks announced, “Great, we’ve just made $140,000 in five minutes. Let’s see how much we can get for Georgina Chapman the pen that Lance used to sign them.” It went for Lisa Kudrow in J. Mendel with Claudia Schiffer, another $5,000 to the “Polar Express” star himself. with Courteney CoxCox-Arquette. Arquette. both in Marchesa. The Art of the Con NEW YORK — Though the new Broadway musical “Dirty Rotten Scoundrels,” based on the 1988 movie featuring Michael Caine and Steve Martin, takes place up and down the Côte d’Azur, scenic designer David Rockwell had no intention of re-creating it onstage. “There’s something so disinteresting about the real Riviera,” explains Rockwell. After all, it’s just beautiful vistas, beaches and palm trees. “There was nothing, literally, to take away from the movie.” Part of Rockwell’s job, however, is reimagining the source material for a smaller canvas: in this case, the Imperial Theatre, where David Yazbek’s musical opens tonight. “Not knowing where to start is better than having a predetermined point of view,” Rockwell says of the challenge. “The design is inspired as much by jewelry as it is by architecture,” he continues. The musical revolves around two con men who swindle wealthy women; obviously, expensive jewelry abounds in every scene. Rockwell ran with this theme in his plans for the set. “Dirty Rotten Scoundrels” scenic designer David Rockwell at the Imperial Theatre. Gems adorn Sizable flat panels made from a variety of metals, including aluminum and steel, were each palm frond on the casino garden set. painted to give the appearance of various finishes, such as wrought iron, pearl, gold and jewel- for a garden sequence. Each palm-tree frond shimmers in gems, while vivid jewels set in like tones. “There’s less room for error with minimalism,” Rockwell chuckles. These frameworks, gold braids snake up the trunks. The fixed background set is painted a pale blue, with the then, were encrusted with jewels, crystals and glass beads — more than 400,000 in all. first 6 feet up the wall covered in “retro, light-reflecting” glass beads of a deeper blue. “I’ve just never seen anything quite like this before,” says director Jack O’Brien, who also When lights hit the beads, they glint and twinkle, making the “waves” of the Mediterranean collaborated with Rockwell on Broadway’s “Hairspray,” which featured such pieces as a vertical bed come to life, the designer points out. and an enormous hairspray can. “This whole thing is a con,” he adds, referring to all the optical Rockwell’s aesthetic expertise goes beyond just theater sets. His company works on illusions. “But, theater is a con. We wanted to use all the manifestations of what that might be like.” roughly 30 projects at a time, and past endeavors have included Nobu in TriBeCa, the The casino set consists of a magnificent two-dimensional crystal chandelier, which dangles Grand Central Terminal renovation and the Kodak Theatre in Hollywood. above a glittering roulette wheel — a Swarovski crystal-laden fanfare. “The chandelier is made “What I like to do is collaborate with different people, different projects and different of 12 different-sized crystals to force the perspective of that one plane,” Rockwell explains. worlds,” Rockwell says. “It’s all about creating solutions and telling stories.” He also integrated the natural splendor of the Riviera into his dreamy, bejeweled vision — Lisa Kelly TY PHOTOS BY ALEX BERLINER/BEIMAGES; ROCKWELL PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; SET PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE GEORGE CHINSEE; SET PHOTO BY PHOTO BY ALEX BERLINER/BEIMAGES; ROCKWELL TY PHOTOS BY R PA