Mountain Heritage Trust 2018 Annual Report
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Mountaineering War and Peace at High Altitudes
Mountaineering War and Peace at High Altitudes 2–5 Sackville Street Piccadilly London W1S 3DP +44 (0)20 7439 6151 [email protected] https://sotherans.co.uk Mountaineering 1. ABBOT, Philip Stanley. Addresses at a Memorial Meeting of the Appalachian Mountain Club, October 21, 1896, and other 2. ALPINE SLIDES. A Collection of 72 Black and White Alpine papers. Reprinted from “Appalachia”, [Boston, Mass.], n.d. [1896]. £98 Slides. 1894 - 1901. £750 8vo. Original printed wrappers; pp. [iii], 82; portrait frontispiece, A collection of 72 slides 80 x 80mm, showing Alpine scenes. A 10 other plates; spine with wear, wrappers toned, a good copy. couple with cracks otherwise generally in very good condition. First edition. This is a memorial volume for Abbot, who died on 44 of the slides have no captioning. The remaining are variously Mount Lefroy in August 1896. The booklet prints Charles E. Fay’s captioned with initials, “CY”, “EY”, “LSY” AND “RY”. account of Abbot’s final climb, a biographical note about Abbot Places mentioned include Morteratsch Glacier, Gussfeldt Saddle, by George Herbert Palmer, and then reprints three of Abbot’s Mourain Roseg, Pers Ice Falls, Pontresina. Other comments articles (‘The First Ascent of Mount Hector’, ‘An Ascent of the include “Big lunch party”, “Swiss Glacier Scene No. 10” Weisshorn’, and ‘Three Days on the Zinal Grat’). additionally captioned by hand “Caution needed”. Not in the Alpine Club Library Catalogue 1982, Neate or Perret. The remaining slides show climbing parties in the Alps, including images of lady climbers. A fascinating, thus far unattributed, collection of Alpine climbing. -
Mountaineering Books Under £10
Mountaineering Books Under £10 AUTHOR TITLE PUBLISHER EDITION CONDITION DESCRIPTION REFNo PRICE AA Publishing Focus On The Peak District AA Publishing 1997 First Edition 96pp, paperback, VG Includes walk and cycle rides. 49344 £3 Abell Ed My Father's Keep. A Journey Of Ed Abell 2013 First Edition 106pp, paperback, Fine copy The book is a story of hope for 67412 £9 Forgiveness Through The Himalaya. healing of our most complicated family relationships through understanding, compassion, and forgiveness, peace for ourselves despite our inability to save our loved ones from the ravages of addiction, and strength for the arduous yet enriching journey. Abraham Guide To Keswick & The Vale Of G.P. Abraham Ltd 20 page booklet 5890 £8 George D. Derwentwater Abraham Modern Mountaineering Methuen & Co 1948 3rd Edition 198pp, large bump to head of spine, Classic text from the rock climbing 5759 £6 George D. Revised slight slant to spine, Good in Good+ pioneer, covering the Alps, North dw. Wales and The Lake District. Abt Julius Allgau Landshaft Und Menschen Bergverlag Rudolf 1938 First Edition 143pp, inscription, text in German, VG- 10397 £4 Rother in G chipped dw. Aflalo F.G. Behind The Ranges. Parentheses Of Martin Secker 1911 First Edition 284pp, 14 illusts, original green cloth, Aflalo's wide variety of travel 10382 £8 Travel. boards are slightly soiled and marked, experiences. worn spot on spine, G+. Ahluwalia Major Higher Than Everest. Memoirs of a Vikas Publishing 1973 First Edition 188pp, Fair in Fair dw. Autobiography of one of the world's 5743 £9 H.P.S. Mountaineer House most famous mountaineers. -
Firestarters Summits of Desire Visionaries & Vandals
31465_Cover 12/2/02 9:59 am Page 2 ISSUE 25 - SPRING 2002 £2.50 Firestarters Choosing a Stove Summits of Desire International Year of Mountains FESTIVAL OF CLIMBING Visionaries & Vandals SKI-MOUNTAINEERING Grit Under Attack GUIDEBOOKS - THE FUTURE TUPLILAK • LEADERSHIP • METALLIC EQUIPMENT • NUTRITION FOREWORD... NEW SUMMITS s the new BMC Chief Officer, writing my first ever Summit Aforeword has been a strangely traumatic experience. After 5 years as BMC Access Officer - suddenly my head is on the block. Do I set out my vision for the future of the BMC or comment on the changing face of British climbing? Do I talk about the threats to the cliff and mountain envi- ronment and the challenges of new access legislation? How about the lessons learnt from foot and mouth disease or September 11th and the recent four fold hike in climbing wall insurance premiums? Big issues I’m sure you’ll agree - but for this edition I going to keep it simple and say a few words about the single most important thing which makes the BMC tick - volunteer involvement. Dave Turnbull - The new BMC Chief Officer Since its establishment in 1944 the BMC has relied heavily on volunteers and today the skills, experience and enthusi- District meetings spearheaded by John Horscroft and team asm that the many 100s of volunteers contribute to climb- are pointing the way forward on this front. These have turned ing and hill walking in the UK is immense. For years, stal- into real social occasions with lively debates on everything warts in the BMC’s guidebook team has churned out quality from bolts to birds, with attendances of up to 60 people guidebooks such as Chatsworth and On Peak Rock and the and lively slideshows to round off the evenings - long may BMC is firmly committed to getting this important Commit- they continue. -
CC J Inners 168Pp.Indd
theclimbers’club Journal 2011 theclimbers’club Journal 2011 Contents ALPS AND THE HIMALAYA THE HOME FRONT Shelter from the Storm. By Dick Turnbull P.10 A Midwinter Night’s Dream. By Geoff Bennett P.90 Pensioner’s Alpine Holiday. By Colin Beechey P.16 Further Certifi cation. By Nick Hinchliffe P.96 Himalayan Extreme for Beginners. By Dave Turnbull P.23 Welsh Fix. By Sarah Clough P.100 No Blends! By Dick Isherwood P.28 One Flew Over the Bilberry Ledge. By Martin Whitaker P.105 Whatever Happened to? By Nick Bullock P.108 A Winter Day at Harrison’s. By Steve Dean P.112 PEOPLE Climbing with Brasher. By George Band P.36 FAR HORIZONS The Dragon of Carnmore. By Dave Atkinson P.42 Climbing With Strangers. By Brian Wilkinson P.48 Trekking in the Simien Mountains. By Rya Tibawi P.120 Climbing Infl uences and Characters. By James McHaffi e P.53 Spitkoppe - an Old Climber’s Dream. By Ian Howell P.128 Joe Brown at Eighty. By John Cleare P.60 Madagascar - an African Yosemite. By Pete O’Donovan P.134 Rock Climbing around St Catherine’s Monastery in the Sinai Desert. By Malcolm Phelps P.142 FIRST ASCENTS Summer Shale in Cornwall. By Mick Fowler P.68 OBITUARIES A Desert Nirvana. By Paul Ross P.74 The First Ascent of Vector. By Claude Davies P.78 George Band OBE. 1929 - 2011 P.150 Three Rescues and a Late Dinner. By Tony Moulam P.82 Alan Blackshaw OBE. 1933 - 2011 P.154 Ben Wintringham. 1947 - 2011 P.158 Chris Astill. -
Irish Successes on K2 Patagonia First Ascent
Autumn 2018 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 127 Irish successes on K2 Two summit ten years after first Irish ascent Patagonia first ascent All-female team climbs Avellano Tower www.mountaineering.ie Photo: Chris Hill (Tourism Ireland) Chris Hill (Tourism Photo: 2 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2018 A word from the edItor ISSUE 127 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland. Mountaineering Ireland Welcome Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and elcome! Autumn is here registered in Dublin, No 199053. Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, with a bang. There is a National Sports Campus, nip in the air and the Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland. leaves on the trees are Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 assuming that wonderful In the Greater ranges and in the Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 [email protected] golden-brownW hue. Alps, the effects of climate ❝ www.mountaineering.ie This has been an exciting year so far for change are very evident. Irish mountaineers climbing in the Greater Hot Rock Climbing Wall Ranges (see our report, page 20). In Nepal, In the Greater Ranges and in the Alps, the Tollymore Mountain Centre there were two more Irish ascents of Bryansford, Newcastle effects of climate change are very evident. County Down, BT33 0PT Everest, bringing the total to fifty-nine Climate change is no longer a theoretical Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 since the first ascent, twenty-five years possibility, it is happening. As mountaineers, [email protected] ago, by Dawson Stelfox in 1993. -
Catalogue 48: June 2013
Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest. -
ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWS Issue No 75. September 2020
ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWS Issue No 75. September 2020 C CONTENTS All-Afghan Team with two Women Climb Nation's Highest Peak Noshakh 7492m of Afghanistan Page 2 ~ 6 Himalayan Club E-Letter vol. 40 Page 7 ~ 43 1 All-Afghan Team, with 2 Women Climb Nation's Highest – Peak Noshakh 7492m The team members said they did their exercises for the trip in Panjshir, Salang and other places for one month ahead of their journey. Related News • Female 30K Cycling Race Starts in Afghanistan • Afghan Female Cyclist in France Prepares for Olympics Fatima Sultani, an 18-year-old Afghan woman, spoke to TOLOnews and said she and companions reached the summit of Noshakh in the Hindu Kush mountains, which is the highest peak in Afghanistan at 7,492 meters. 1 The group claims to be the first all-Afghan team to reach the summit. Fatima was joined by eight other mountaineers, including two girls and six men, on the 17-day journey. They began the challenging trip almost a month ago from Kabul. Noshakh is located in the Wakhan corridor in the northeastern province of Badakhshan. “Mountaineering is a strong sport, but we can conquer the summit if we are provided the gear,” Sultani said.The team members said they did their exercises for the trip in Panjshir, Salang and other places for one month ahead of their journey. “We made a plan with our friends to conquer Noshakh summit without foreign support as the first Afghan team,” said Ali Akbar Sakhi, head of the team. The mountaineers said their trip posed challenge but they overcame them. -
Book Reviews 1983
237 Book Reviews 1983 Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman Everest: The Unclimbed Ridge Chris Bonington & Charles Clarke Hodder & Sloughton, 1983, pp 132, photos & maps, £10.95 There is a great samenessabout expedition books but this one, as one knew from the outset, was going to be special: the return ofa British party after forty years and more to the scenes of our endeavours in the twenties and thirties and to a greatly changed Tibet, the story ofan attempt substantially without oxygen on this enormously big and certainly difficult NE ridge, the drama and tragedy of the disappearance and loss of those uniquely experienced and skilful climbers Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker. It is indeed a rewarding and compelling story graphically and movingly told with an alternation ofdescriptive passages by the two authors interlarded with excerpts from Boardman's diaries and some of Tasker's letters and, need one say, magnificently illustrated. I particularly commend, because I am not yet fully habituated to it, the present convention of describing and analysing some at least of the emotional tensions, the fears, the antipathies, the fluctuations offriendship which in my time were glossed over or ignored. This way the characters ofthe protagonists stand out much more clearly though sadly Joe Tasker, partly because he seemingly kept no diary, remains rather enigmatic. Charles Clarke in one ofhis introductory chapters gives a sympathetic account of Tibet and its people as the expedition saw them, with breathtaking photo graphs of interiors in the Potala, but it seems a pity to quote yet again that unrepresentative comment of Mallory's on Tibet as 'a hateful place'. -
The Mountaineering Experience: Determining the Critical Factors and Assessing Management Practices
University of Calgary PRISM: University of Calgary's Digital Repository Graduate Studies The Vault: Electronic Theses and Dissertations 2014-09-16 The Mountaineering Experience: Determining the Critical Factors and Assessing Management Practices Benjamin, Mary Wilder Benjamin, M. W. (2014). The Mountaineering Experience: Determining the Critical Factors and Assessing Management Practices (Unpublished master's thesis). University of Calgary, Calgary, AB. doi:10.11575/PRISM/28251 http://hdl.handle.net/11023/1767 master thesis University of Calgary graduate students retain copyright ownership and moral rights for their thesis. You may use this material in any way that is permitted by the Copyright Act or through licensing that has been assigned to the document. For uses that are not allowable under copyright legislation or licensing, you are required to seek permission. Downloaded from PRISM: https://prism.ucalgary.ca UNIVERSITY OF CALGARY The Mountaineering Experience: Determining the Critical Factors and Assessing Management Practices by Mary Wilder Benjamin A THESIS SUBMITTED TO THE FACULTY OF GRADUATE STUDIES IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN FACULTY OF ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN CALGARY, ALBERTA SEPTEMBER, 2014 © Mary Wilder Benjamin 2014 Abstract Recreational mountaineering is a complex pursuit that continues to evolve with respect to demographics, participant numbers, methods, equipment, and the nature of the experience sought. The activity often occurs in protected areas where agency managers are charged with the inherently conflicting mandate of protecting the natural environment and facilitating high quality recreational experiences. Effective management of such mountaineering environs is predicated on meaningful understanding of the users’ motivations, expectations and behaviours. -
In Memoriam 1981
In Memoriam Introduction Geoffrey Templeman Since the last Journal was published, 9 of our members have died, the list being as follows: Donald Mill; Marjorie Garrod; Charles John Morris; Mark Pasteur; Reginald Mountain; Thomas MacKinnon; Arnold Pines; Richard Grant and Archibald Scott. It also appears that no mention was made in the Journal of the death ofour distinguished Honorary Member Henry de Segogne in 1979:-ifanyone would like to write a tribute, I will be very pleased to print it next year. My request for any further tributes for Lucien Devies last year was promptly answered and they are included here. Also included from previous years are full obituaries of Sir Percy Wyn Harris, Dr John Lewis and Nicolas Jaeger, whilst mention should also be made here of the recent death of Sir Michael Postan, a former member of the club. I would once again like to express my sincere thanks to all who have helped in producing the tributes that follow-without their help, the Journal would be the poorer. It has not been possible to obtain obituaries for one or two members and my own short notes must suffice for the following. Reginald WilIiam Mountain, who joined the club in 1941, died last year at the age of 81. His application for membership shows that he started climbing in the Alps in 1924 and completed a number of standard courses in the Bernese Oberland and Mont Blanc region, mostly with guides. ArchibaldJames Scott died in October, 1981, aged 79, having been a member of the club for 46 years. -
Cairngorm Club Library List Oct2020 Edited Kjt30oct2020
Cairngorm Club Library Holding Re-Catalogued at Kings College Special Collections October 2020 To find current Library reference data, availability, etc., search title, author, etc. in the University Catalogue: see www.abdn.ac.uk/library Type / Creator / Imprint title Johnson, Samuel, (London : Strahan & Cadell, 1775.) A journey to the Western Islands of Scotland. Taylor, George, (London : the authors, 1776) Taylor and Skinner's survey and maps of the roads of North Britain or Scotland. Boswell, James, (London : Dilly, 1785.) The journal of a tour to the Hebrides, with Samuel Johnson, LL. D. / . Grant, Anne MacVicar, (Edinburgh : Grant, 1803) Poems on various subjects. Bristed, John. (London : Wallis, 1803.) A predestrian tour through part of the Highlands of Scotland, in 1801. Campbell, Alexander, (London : Vernor & Hood, 1804) The Grampians desolate : a poem. Grant, Anne MacVicar, (London : Longman, 1806.) Letters from the mountains; being the real correspondence of a lady between the years 1773 and Keith, George Skene, (Aberdeen : Brown, 1811.) A general view of the agriculture of Aberdeenshire. Robson, George Fennell. (London : The author, 1814) Scenery of the Grampian Mountains; illustrated by forty etchings in the soft ground. Hogg, James, (Edinburgh : Blackwood & Murray, 1819.) The Queen's wake : a legendary poem. Sketches of the character, manners, and present state of the Highlanders of Scotland : with details Stewart, David, (Edinburgh : Constable, 1822.) of the military service of the Highland regiments. The Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland, containing descriptions of their scenery and antiquities, with an account of the political history and ancient manners, and of the origin, Macculloch, John, (London : Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, language, agriculture, economy, music, present condition of the people, &c. -
Joe Tasker Obituary
Joe Tasker 1948-82 by Dick Renshaw Joe was born in Hull in 1948 and five years later moved to Teeside where his father worked as a school caretaker until his retirement. Joe was one of ten children in a very close-knit family from which a strong sense of consideration and thoughtfulness for others seemed to develop. Several members of his family were usually at the airport when Joe left on expedition or returned. Just before leaving on his last expedition to Everest Pete wondered whether Joe, noted for turning up at the last minute, would be on time to meet the press. ‘He will be,’ said someone else. ‘Joe might keep the press of the world waiting but never his family.’ As the eldest of a strong Catholic family, Joe was sent to Ushaw College, a Jesuit seminary, at the age of thirteen. His seven years there were to have a lasting effect on him in many ways. It was there that he started climbing when he was fifteen, in a quarry behind the college, with the encouragement of Father Barker, one of the priests, and in a well-stocked library his imagination was fired by epic adventures in the mountains. He was always grateful for the excellent education he had received and his amazing will power and stoicism may perhaps have been partly due to the somewhat spartan way of life and to the Jesuit ideals of spiritual development through self-denial. He started his training as a priest but at twenty he realised that he did not have the vocation and decided to leave – the hardest decision of his life.