2 Apparel Online India Apparel Online India 3 4 Apparel Online India 5 Apparel Online India VOL. XVIII Issue 20

Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA Editor ILA SAXENA Copy Editor VEERESHWAR SOBTI Asst. Copy Editor SAHIL SEHGAL CONTENTS January 16-31, 2016 Asst. Editor-News DHEERAJ TAGRA Asst. Editor NEHA CHHETRI Sr. Correspondent-Textiles SANJOGEETA OJHA Sr. Correspondent-Fashion KALITA LAMBA Sr. Executive-Advertising D K CHUGH Creative Team RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL PEEUSH JAUHARI SATYAPAL BISHT Photo Editor SUMIT THARAN Subscription Enquiry RANI MAHENDRU 011-47390000 Operation Director MAYANK MOHINDRA 09810611487 14 20 29 32 36 Publisher & Managing Director RENU MOHINDRA 09810058986, 9810438653 WorldWrap Head Office Retail in Hong Kong sees a shift Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd. Burberry, Louis Vuitton, D&G, Salvatore Ferragamo… the names B-32, South Extension-I, New Delhi-110 049 that beckoned strong sales growth, giving a push to the luxury 14 Phone: 91-11-47390000 market in Hong Kong between 2003 and 2014... E-mail: [email protected] Web associate: www.apparelresources.com Apparel Online contact: 91-11-47390000 BuyerStrategy [email protected] Buyers very upbeat of 2016… Stabilising global [email protected] market to support business from the country Printing It has been a very challenging year for the industry but overall TARA ART PRINTERS PVT. LTD. 20 the picture has been positive for the apparel segment while the B-4, Hans Bhawan, B.S. Zafar Marg, textile segment has not been so upbeat… New Delhi-110002 Tel: 23378626, 23379686 ------Tex-File SUBSCRIPTION FORM Textile companies are changing strategies to stay competitive Yes, I wish to subscribe to Apparel Online for Of late due to over-capacities of cotton yarn, 7 to 8 per cent BY REGULAR MAIL spindles running in the country have been lying unused as India Rs. 1800.00 24 issues 22 China is also not buying... BY COURIER Delhi/NCR Rs. 2400.00 24 issues Rest of India Rs. 3600.00 24 issues International USD 264.00 24 issues H2F Women Entrepreneurs: From making homes to Name ______managing home fashion business successfully Most of us will agree that a woman has more aesthetic sense Designation ______27 and feel, especially when it comes to decorating a house. It is Company/Institute ______also said that a ‘man’s home is his wife’s castle’... Address ______Tel/Mobile ______E-mail ______FashionBusiness TYPE OF BUSINESS Trend Alert: The Slip Dress! Exporter Retailer Buying House While the fashion of 90s is on the verge of extinction, it was no Any other (specify) ______surprise to witness the Pre-Fall 2016 runways swathed with looks where women’s fashion trends took a serious feminine turn... 32 Subscription within India- Send Cheque/DD to Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd. B-32, South Extn. Part-1, New Delhi-110049, INDIA International subscription (in Dollar) - Credit Card using www.apparelresources.com ValueAddition Telegraphic transfer to Bank Account No. 03192320003806 All Things Quilted! Fashion quilting (Swift No:HDFCINBB) with HDFC Bank, D-9, South Extn. back in business after 4 seasons… Part-2, New Delhi-110049. INDIA Quilting came into the spotlight in the A/W ’14-15 seasons 36 when new technology gave way for unique patterns and numerous designs...

6 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com 7 Apparel Online India Two major happenings this fortnight not only caught my attention but ignited my thoughts to pen down my opinions on each separately… So the first editorial of the year is a twin...!

FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’S DESK… GOODWILL PANDA…

The tenure of another distinguished IAS officer of the (Association of Corporations and Apex Societies level of secretary came to an end with little achievement of Handlooms), NHHM (National Handicrafts and to his name and for that you need to blame his limited Handlooms Museum), NCTD (National Centre for Textile understanding of the textile supply chain and his earlier Design), NHDC Ltd. (National Handloom Development postings and responsibilities and to some extent the Corporation Ltd.), HEPC (Handloom Promotion Export small period of his stay. Council) that are in operation with nothing to show to Dr. S. K. Panda, the incumbent textile secretary, spent their credit…, not even one successful business model… a good part of his working life in Tripura fighting All are in way ‘defunct’ organisations. the cause of traditional craft. He joined the Textiles If the handloom had any chance of acceptance by the Ministry with only one-and-a-half years of his service consumer the world over or even within India, than left, carrying the bag and baggage of his earlier tenure, would not all these organizations, including the design sharing his experience of working with artisans and institutes and the design fraternity, put it on the world in turn publishing his research and writing books map by now…, something to show for their existence! of his achievements. (Now I am not the right person Ironically, despite huge funds, handloom products to comment on either the type of research or the during the year 2013-14, accounted for just about 3.5% books he published, since I have no idea about that of total exports in textile and apparel… Do I need to say particular industry)… anything more! But what triggered me to write this piece was one of his I am not against handlooms and the weavers, but I am articles in a very distinguished English magazine run against patronising handlooms and the weavers against by very distinguished textile industry-informed editorial other sectors in the textile value chain having a strong panel where he starts with talking about the importance growth and employment potential. of three essential elements of survival which are of Roti, I have interviewed and interacted with many secretaries Kapda and Makan (does he address the article to a over the last 20 years whom I consider to be highly craftsman or a well-informed and educated industrialist educated, experienced and intelligent, including is not clear, but the article is in English language. So I some who rose to become cabinet secretaries like am presuming that it must have been for me or the likes TSR Subramaniam and Prabhat Kumar, they all were of me) and then taking us through to how clothing was distinguished secretaries but faltered in their tenures as evolved from the tree bark to the British Monarchy’s textile secretaries because they failed to bring back the special liking for handloom fabric and the use of vibrant textile sector to its original glory as sunrise industry…, colours (probably he is talking of the time when the mill primarily because for them also the textile industry sector was unheard of)… From there on he takes us to was just cotton farming and the handloom… Promoting the importance of the handloom and its revival in an age handloom and artisans was the focus…, not realising where fast fashion and functionality rule the roost… that the world has moved on to demand wearable The obsessive focus on handloom is also because it is comforts and functionality. the pet project of our Prime Minister. Isn’t it an irony They all used NIFT, a fashion institute under Textiles that not only is the present Government but all its Ministry, to promote the lost cause of handloom predecessor Governments fallen prey to the fallacies of supporting them with design inputs, making it handloom…, ignoring the textile value chain at large mandatory for the design students to work with the when designing the projects and allocating the funds… handloom and handwork industry…; and organising But to what avail! fashion shows, involving top designers (designers Even though every textile secretary whom I have met do not come cheap) and also taking the designs knows that handloom fabric has very limited acceptance internationally…, which is still continuing in the in the market and little economic value for the artisan present, but with little to show… and their protégées (or children), but he who is under The secretaries come for shorter stints without any duress always, will continue to please his masters reasonable understanding of the industry taking to put money where handloom is, because it is every the uninformed agenda of the minister forward, minister’s dream project… And why is it the minister’s spend some easy time in the ministry make few trips dream project, because it’s a vote bank for him… Look abroad and get done with it mostly to retirement at the number of Government departments including (last 4 secretaries had a tenure of less than 2 years)… DC Handloom, All India Handloom Board, ACASH Am I sounding cynical…?

8 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com 9 Apparel Online India FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’S DESK… OPEN LETTER IN REPLY TO SUDHIR SEKHRI’S OPEN LETTER TO INDUSTRY…

Just when we thought that the year had ended on If this goes on, than the industry will also exercise a positive note with AEPC elections throwing up their right to ask as to how many international trips satisfactory results for all, the old team and the new he did on AEPC expense and to what purpose (no contenders, a war of words through ‘open letters’ to report has seen the light of the day on the outcome the industry has begun in the disguise of wishing the of an international visit with the resultant increase industry a Happy New Year…, a practice never seen in buyers visit to India and if he has presented before and which has brought in a new chapter to the report, than it must be for few selected the ongoing AEPC-AHEA conflict…! beneficiaries), how many trips nationally he made Why and what’s the politics of writing such and how many close-door meetings he attended letters… If Mr. Sudhir Sekhri, CMD, Trend Setters with the international buyers on behalf of AEPC…, International, thinks that he is obliging the industry and how many industry visits of such buyers were by serving it for free, giving his precious time of 1½ organised and with whom…, the questions can get days a week for the benefit of the industry, then I really difficult to answer. think he should quit gracefully on his own accord I also don’t understand why the AHEA has no because there are plenty of other people who are right to bring up issues beyond the Apparel House ready to take his place. He chose to be in the job, showrooms… Are they not exporters with right to he says, in the interest of the industry and if he question how the community is being served? thinks the industry does not recognize him, he has The letter states that the Market Days was scrapped every right to quit and tend to his business which as showroom owners failed to keep the concept he says is doing well. But if he thinks that he is alive by not opening showrooms, hence buyers lost doing the right thing, he should stick to presenting interest… It is not a failure of AEPC and complete the positives of the tenure, rather than indulging wastage of resources that there is no activity in in petty politics, accept his failures, learn from the experience and improve… these showrooms throughout the year, as promised to them and they have lost faith… How AEPC can I don’t agree with him that industry is best served blame them for getting disheartened…; it was not by its players rather than paid professionals to get their responsibility to promote and bring business to things done just because as a businessman he has the showrooms. better understanding of ground realities by the same logic… If things are not working out, then other Do I need to say anything about the IIGF, and exporters willing to do the job should also be given a especially about the repeatedly visitation of same chance to show their capabilities…, why the hitch? and small-level buyers? There are rarely visitations by buyers at the show who earlier were not sourcing In my defence, I would like to point out that every from India. Is it not the responsibility of AEPC and industry hires professionals to manage the show its team to make sure real new buyers are invited? since it is not expected that industrialists are How can the interests of IIGF and the Apparel House experts in all areas, especially liaisoning with the clash…; the idea is to bring in business, but it seems Government. One or two exporters at the top would there is clash of interest. be enough to provide the required domain depth for negotiations, but the management of affairs has to As for his observation on tarnishing the image be in the hands of professionals with marketing and of the AEPC with the Ministry…, does he think administrative skills, hired specifically for the job. they are fools in the corridors of power… Do they not have independent investigations to decide on I would go on to say that rather than earning allegations… Had the AEPC been more active and brownie points and trying to gain mileage by persuasive, the Government would have been more mudslinging (which suits the seasoned politician responsive to the industry needs and countries like these days and they don’t even say that they are Bangladesh would not have come from behind to doing service to the nation), would it not be better to overtake us. go back to the industry and take them through his/ AEPC achievements… Belittle the opposition just Just praying to God that the problems will be because they showed intent to fight elections and washed away is not going to help…; the AEPC has be part of the system which has been monopolised to work hard to improve its image and prove all by some, to save their business and in turn help the allegations wrong…; putting blame on others and industry…, makes no sense and in turn only shows not addressing the core issues honestly, is a felony the opposition in better light. that the AEPC seems to be getting into…

10 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com Apparel Online India 11 MINDTREE

related to dyeing, printing, finishing, etc. not only At various industry seminars, experts are saying that with improves the top and bottom line of the mills, changing global conditions it is the best time to add value but it also directly improves the attractiveness and move away from the products that the textile mills are and competitiveness of garment industry. As a MIND already doing for a long time. They also suggest that it is whole, everyone can be a winner. Yes, changes a good time to invest in garmenting… Being an industry- are happening but the rate at which these are informed person of the industry, what is your opinion, and happening is not enough to beat the effect TREETOPIC OF DEBATE do you see the change happening in the near future? of rising market forces which are active in our region.

RS Sampath, CEO, Shree Siddhivinayak If anyone is doing spinning and weaving, then Sudhish Aggarwala, President, The Textile Cotspin Ltd., Kolhapur  As far as value processing should also be in-house. Association (India), Delhi  I completely addition is concerned, it is good but in agree with the expert opinion and would like most of the cases capital cost is very high. To come out of the comfort zone to take a #apparelresources.com to add that the concept of fibre to the garment new initiative, one should take calculative Yatish Moncourt, Director, Francis Wacziarg, industry will benefit the entire industry. If risks. No doubt, we have to go according to Noida  No doubt, in the present situation if any big mill offering yarn or fabric enters into international trends/requirements. At that one has to sustain to fierce competition, then he garmenting, it will be naturally cost-effective level, blend of polyester and cotton is 70:30 has to go for value addition. Actually, this value for that mill and also for the entire supply chain or 60:40 while in India it is reverse, being a addition can prove to be their USP and can including the buyer. When everything is in cotton dominated country. Be it fabric for help them in garnering greater market share your hands, quality control will also be better sportswear or technical textile, our country which will lead to more profit. Value addition and easy. Still mills do not want to enter into is at primitive stage. Fragmented structure of need not be only in the forward integration garmenting. They should at least try moving industry and lesser margins are like obstacles. like garmenting, it can also be in the form of from the particular product that they have been Secondly, when you talk about value addition production of high technology and high-value doing for many years in order to be competitive in garmenting, I feel it should take place step- items where return on investment will be and to serve its customers better. This kind of by-step first in spinning mills for weaving higher than that of the current product mix. diversification or value addition may not be easy and processing and later in garmenting. Investments by the mills on new technology, but will definitely help in growth.

12 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com MINDTREE

NS Nirban, MD, Texpert International, from decades. For example, many firms have Dewas (Madhya Pradesh)  To grow in textile started their own brands and some textiles industry, value addition in garmenting is a very organizations are doing reasonably good in good option, especially now when the garment e-Commerce. On the other hand, few Delhi- MIND industry is doing reasonably good in domestic NCR based exporters are investing in mills in as well as in export industry. To a large extent, Surat. Some apparel exporters are moving infrastructure and availability of material is also towards digital printing, so things are moving TREE feasible these days. I would like to give you an slowly and according to the interest of people. QUESTION example, on an average one kilogram of yarn I feel that any organization when it moves costs almost Rs. 180 and makes five pieces of closer to the end-users of its products will get Do you think that the more and more understanding of customers product and these five pieces cost almost Rs. which will open new growth avenues, and Textile and Apparel 1,000, so nearly five times value addition goes hence it can strengthen its identity. Industry needs into garmenting. In my opinion, Indian mills are doing enough development on blending professionals with specific as cotton is still a major focus product in Sandeep Patani, Director, Jatin Cotton Mills, capabilities to represent our country. Ichalkaranji  It is a good time for value and liaison with the addition or to invest in garmenting as margins Government for better are becoming thinner, and value addition is a Anupam Arya, ED, Bindal Exports, Surat  negotiations and results; or key for further growth today. In Ichalkaranji, do you think that the AEPC Yes, I do agree with this opinion which has maximum firms are still offering the same become a fact. I can give example of our own product which they were doing from their through its EC members company, earlier we were job-workers of origin and are not moving forward. It proves does the job rightfully and dyeing and printing but from last two years, that this hub has full potential for growth there is no need to invest we are manufacturing our own fabric and in and for value addition, but problems remain in skilled people/agencies some more time we will move ahead in further as usual. We have to go out of the city for a to do the job? development. Though in Surat, there is not good process house; on policy level there is a enough vertical integration, but people are condition of ZLD implementation and many Be a part of our latest discussions... moving forward from what they were doing more such problems. Post your comments on www.apparelresources.com

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 13 WORLDWRAP

RETAIL IN HONG KONG SEES A SHIFT MOVES FROM HIGH-END TO MID-MARKET BRANDS

Burberry, Louis Vuitton, D&G, Salvatore Ferragamo… the names that beckoned strong sales growth, giving a push to the luxury market in Hong Kong between 2003 and 2014, is seeing major slowdown due to a range of factors including Chinese Government’s anti-corruption measures, milder GDP growth in China, weakening Asian currencies and the decreasing number of tourists. This is, however, getting the focus back on the mid-market retail brands that are being considered as the main driver of retail demand in the country.

ccording to the luxury retailers consolidate their such as Emperor Watch & Census and Statistics second-tier shops, which CBRE ‘The Changing Jewellery closed its 12-year-old Department (CS&D) claims will mostly increase space Retail store on Russell Street; New York- A of Hong Kong, the availability in the market. Landscape: based leather goods maker Coach value of total retail sales in “Some high-end fashion, How to survive shut its flagship store in Central; the first eight months of 2015 cosmetics, watch and jewellery the slowdown Chinese mainland footwear decreased by 2.2 per cent as retailers have either stopped in Hong Kong?’ retailer Belle International compared to the same period in renewing leases or have foresees three Holdings Ltd. closed its outlet in 2014. CS&D indicated that the Tseung Kwan O, and Swiss watch surrendered spaces well ahead trends in the weakening in retail sales is due brand TAG Heuer terminated of expiry. However, they will next five years: to the slowdown in the inbound still strive to secure flagship the lease of its store on Russell tourism, while the unpredictable premises in strategic locations . The main Street. While on the other hand, stock market seems to be denting with prominent addresses and driver of cosmetics retailer Lush opened its the consumer preferences. “The good visibility, which means a demand for new 6,900 sq. feet flagship store retail sector is experiencing at Lyndhurst Terrace in Central higher marketing value. They retail space a structural change. Over the may also introduce secondary in the fourth quarter of 2015, Folli past decade, high-street shop are shifting Follie has leased a 1,100-sq. feet lines at accessible prices, from high-end landlords have reaped the targeting young consumers with store on Queen’s Road Central consumer benefits of strong demand from a growing demand for mid- which was previously leased to luxury retailers and massive market products,” reveals the goods to mid- Carlson Watch, and Pandora rental growth. Landlords report. This movement implies market brands; has taken up premises occupied must now be more realistic on by Royale Time on D’Aguilar that the tenant composition . Local demand rental negotiations, as luxury in prominent locations in Street for a similar rent. Helen will gradually retailers are adjusting their Hong Kong is gradually Mak Hoi-lun, Senior Director at leasing strategies to save costs, changing. As rents are falling regain a bigger Colliers International forecast and more mid-range brands in Hong Kong, the landlords of share in total that rents for street-level shops are looking to tap into prime shops in strategic locations with retail sales will fall by 15 per cent with Tsim locations at relatively affordable good footfall and visibility are compared Sha Tsui registering the biggest rental levels,” affirms Joe Lin, willing to negotiate with tenants with tourist drop in commercial rents, while Executive Director, Retail on affordable terms. spending; and the softening retail leasing Services, CBRE Hong Kong. market will lead to greater tenant Giving further impetus, . Decentralized mix and make the local retail Following this, the latest report mid-market retail brands in areas will by CBRE, ‘The Changing Retail Hong Kong are set to emerge as landscape more sustainable Landscape: How to survive the the main driver of the city’s retail provide a and diversified. slowdown in Hong Kong?’ details leasing business, replacing hard- significant Nonetheless, during the past how mid market retail brands pressed global luxury brands, proportion decade, tourists have contributed are following the lease expiry of which have taken the brunt of of new retail in retail sales by doubling the previous luxury goods retailers, sluggish retail sales and soaring space, offering share from 20 per cent in 2004 opening the doors for them to rents and are being forced to pull more leasing to 42 per cent in 2014. This has expand. The last quarter of down the shutters prematurely. options. resulted in significant sales 2015 has witnessed this shift as Many high-end leading retailers growth in touristy products such

14 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com WORLDWRAP

as cosmetics, jewellery, watches, may marginally gauge back electronic goods, etc. But since household consumption. 2014, Hong Kong is seeing a The lack of posh retail Falabella plans to invest US $ 4 decline in tourist arrivals and is spaces which were earlier billion in Latin American expansion seeing change in tourist spending, being taken up by luxury with more splurging on mid-range retailers has pushed the retail In a bid to strengthen its position in Latin American products rather than luxury. rents to a high in the past countries including Peru, Colombia, Argentina, Brazil and “The sales performance of luxury years. But going ahead, this Uruguay, Chile’s biggest retailer Falabella has announced products is heavily reliant on the supply will ease pressure on to invest US $ 4 billion in the region. external factors. In contrast, the retailers with regard to rental Out of the total funds to be invested, 44 per cent will be demand for mid-market goods expense; nonetheless new from both tourists and local used for opening 131 stores and 10 shopping centres, options will continue to remain while nearly 26 per cent will be used for remodelling of the consumers is relatively steady,” limited. CBRE estimates that reveals Marcos Chan, Head of existing locations and a further 33 per cent will be used for in the next five years, 70 per logistics and IT investment. Sandro Solari, Chief Executive Research, CBRE Hong Kong, cent of the new supply will be Macau and Taiwan. of the Falabella Group said, “These investments will enable in non-core districts and 5.6 us to grow our physical presence, increase the scale and functionality of our digital operations and improve efficiency and productivity of our business, all of which The local real private consumption expenditure registered an should contribute to the overall customer experience.” average annual growth of 4.9 per cent between 2004 and 2014, The company has also implemented Net Promoter Score and the median household income rose by 4 per cent per annum (NPS) to measure customer satisfaction and manage during this period. All in all, the domestic consumption is set to service levels at all of its stores and points of sale. The company has a total of 459 stores and 40 shopping centres remain healthy in the short- to medium-term. as of 2015, and revenue of US $ 11.7 billion was reported as of September 2015. Besides, its namesake departmental store, Falabella, a 126-year-old concern, has reached seven countries and currently employs over 1,00,000 people worldwide. The company reported a growth in revenue by 13 per cent last year and opened 10 home improvement outposts, eight supermarkets, four departmental stores, two shopping centres and the first Crate & Barrel location in South America.

NEXT feels the heat of unseasonably warm weather

UK-based fashion retailer NEXT said that unseasonably warm weather has resulted in poor store-sales in the run- up to Christmas. The retailer informed that its full-price sales dipped 0.5 per cent across its stores in the 60 days to Christmas Eve, while sales across its NEXT Directory online and catalogue arm surged just 2 per cent. In all, Apart from the above factors, million sq. feet of retail space the performance for full-price brand sales across stores the local retail spending in will be shopping arcades for and NEXT Directory were 0.4 per cent higher for the 60 Hong Kong though robust is still residential estates. “This will days to Christmas Eve, a sharp slowdown on the 3.3 per often neglected. The local real provide opportunities for mid- cent growth seen in its half-year to July. Post the poor private consumption expenditure range retailers to expand their performance this festive season, NEXT informed its central registered an average annual store networks targeting the full-year profit forecast of £ 817 million has been revised, growth of 4.9 per cent between mid-to-high income households. but didn’t unveil the fresh figures. “We would not want to 2004 and 2014, and the median Government statistics suggests allow difficult trading conditions to mask any mistakes household income rose by that the catchment areas of these and challenges faced by the business. Specifically, we 4 per cent per annum during this regional malls usually have an believe that Next Directory’s disappointing sales were period. All in all, the domestic above-median household income. compounded by poor stock availability from October consumption is set to remain Domestic spending will get onwards. In addition, the online competitive environment healthy in the short to medium- retailers’ attention and the mid- is getting tougher as industry-wide service propositions term, although short-term market sector will see healthy catch up with the NEXT Directory,” it added. stock market volatility and an growth potential,” confirms anticipated interest rate hike the report.

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 15 SUSTAINABILITY

One of the most SUSTAINABILITYNEWS respected apparel export houses in the Brandix wins Green ATRIX CLOTHING MOVES Delhi-NCR region Mark Platinum FORWARD ON ‘GREEN’ ROUTE; – Matrix Clothing, Certification INSTALLS SOLAR POWER PLANT Gurgaon – led by The Green Mark Platinum Gautam Nair, has moved Certification by the Ceylon Institute of Builders (CIOB) forward on the ‘Green’ was recently awarded to the M route by installing a solar headquarter building of one of power plant of 258 KW the biggest Sri Lankan apparel at its factory. The plant exporters, the Brandix Group. generates 0.33 million The building was rated on energy efficiency, water efficiency, units a year which is near sustainable operations and about 10 per cent of the maintenance, indoor environment company’s total power quality and other green features consumption. Now 67 and innovations. The building received an overall score of per cent of the energy above 90 required to qualify for needs of the company Charles Sherman, SVP Manufacturing of Ralph Lauren inaugurating the solar electricity installations. Platinum, the highest Green Gautam Nair, MD and Adarsh Sharan, COO Matix Clothing are also seen in the picture. Sanjeev Dua, VP, are met by its own solar/ rating possible under the scheme. Global Manufacturing & Sourcing, and Nataraj Sankaran, VP, Ralph Lauren were especially present during wind generation. “Our new headquarter building this occasion is a perfect representation of the Group’s deep-rooted commitment to sustainability. The oncern for environment owns/operates two wind turbines have been replaced by 28 watt latest in technology was utilized is a cornerstone (each generating 600 KW of energy-efficient tube lights to minimize its environmental of the company’s power) in Gujarat, which supply which helps save 4,20,000 units footprint, and the two awards individual and two million units of electricity to per year. Now moving forward, Cbusiness philosophy. From the Gujarat Electricity Board.” won in the space of a month these T5 tube lights of 28 watt are a fitting recognition and a ensuring wastage of resources He further adds, “We are using are being replaced by LED new benchmark for Green office to investing in infrastructure around 1,000 sewing machines lights of 16 watt. Apart from buildings in Sri Lanka,” informs that is environment-friendly, the with direct-drive motors instead these initiatives, the company Feroz Omar, Director, Brandix. company does whatever it can of clutch motors. Further, also runs an ‘energy-efficiency’ for the environment. It is perhaps 600 clutch motors will also be Built in March 2015, the eight- awareness programme.” the only apparel exporter of replaced in the coming months. storey, 37,800 square feet India which uses earth (prithvi), The company’s replacement It’s not only about electricity Brandix headquarter building wind (pavan) and fire (agni/ of 160 ironing stations from for Matrix Clothing, the apparel has 29,783 square feet of air- surya) for energy production electric-heated to stem-heated exporter is equally concerned conditioned office space and and saving. help save 1,90,000 units per year. about water saving and its reuse. accommodates approximately Similarly, window exhaust fans It has set-up an ETP (Effluent 200 people. The extensive use of The installation of solar power (380W each) have been replaced Treatment Plant) with the double-glazed, argon-filled, black plant is now necessary for by 50 roof-top non-electric capacity of 120 KLD and uses tinted self-cleaning glass walls factories in Haryana as per extractors, resulting in saving treated water for other purposes gives the structure improved the order passed by the State of 23,000 units per year. Also, like in toilets. The company also thermal insulation and a high Government of Haryana in 5,400 tube lights (T5-54 watt) has a Sewage Treatment Plant, solar reflectance index, keeping September 2014. A notification, its interiors cool. The daylight for the installation of roof- harvesting is facilitated by a high top solar power systems for window to wall ratio and the use commercial buildings, having of Light Emitting Diode (LED) load connection of 50 KW to lighting controlled by a smart 1 MW, was sent across the state, system, switches on and adjusts making it mandatory for such lux levels based on ambient light factories to produce 5% solar and occupancy. A highly energy- power of the total requirement or efficient water-cooled and oil-free 10 KW, whichever is higher. The magnetic bearing air-conditioning project cost of installing solar system, all integrated into a energy was Rs. 2.5 crore. series of sophisticated intelligent Vipin Gupta, AVP, Personal building management systems, & Admin, Matrix Clothing enables significant savings in informs, “As part of Matrix’s energy consumption. commitment to the renewable energy initiative, the company Matrix Clothing Celebrates ‘Green Initiatives’ with focus on earth, wind and fire

16 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com SUSTAINABILITY

SUSTAINABILITYNEWS

Manufacturing knitted polo shirt and embellished ladies garments, BSCI & SEDEX compliant Orient Craft organizes Matrix Clothing has a workforce of 5,000 and an export turnover of US $ 55 million (Rs. 356 eye camp for its workers crore) for the fiscal 2014-15. The company has a long client list including Li & Fung, Hugo Boss, Continuing its efforts to ensure Debenhams, NEXT and Nautica. It also runs the “Apparel Skill Development Academy” (ASDA) good health for its operators and which focuses on training and providing necessary basic skills in the various aspects of apparel other workers, Orient Craft Ltd. manufacturing. The company also supports Iimpact and Salaam Baalak Trust. organized an eye check-up camp at its Noida unit in Sector 59. The company has been conducting several such free health camps in its apparel factories in the past. and the treated water from here harvesting pits of 1,53,000 lt. saving & re-cycling by making At the eye camp, 212 workers is used for horticulture purposes. holding capacity, with a bore size writing pads from rough paper, got their eyes tested by doctors To control noise pollution, the of 4-6” that go down to a depth re-cycling of printer’s cartridge & from the Eye Health Centre, and Indian apparel exporter has an of 250 feet. In fact the company ribbons by refilling, using refilled got advice for necessary actions acoustic chamber for an old DG claims that it is the first factory sketch pens/white board markers, like wearing spectacular lenses set of 500 KVA, and has installed in the area to install rainwater reduction in consumption of or increasing their power, etc. Silent DG of 500 KVA. harvesting in its premises. diesel fuel in boiler by using The team of doctors also gave Moving forward on the green Apart from such big waste petroleum products, necessary instructions to the path, the apparel exporter initiatives, the company also reduction in consumption of workers regarding their eye care. diesel fuel in diesel generator has planted 369 trees at its focuses on small but equally Pawan Aarya, Asst. VP, (DG) set by using independent campus and has four rainwater important points like paper Orient Craft Ltd. informed, “We feeder line of power and are concerned about our workers; waterless urinal. Similarly, it has especially for their health. So we leakage monitoring control on organise regular health camps, regular basis. It has the system of BLOOD DONATION DRIVES MATRIX covering various aspects of the replacement of conventional bib- workers’ health. A few months ago, CLOTHING STAFF TO SOCIAL SERVICE valves by push valves & self-stop we organized a camp on cancer ones in almost all taps, to stop awareness and its check-up. Keeping the immediate community and the society at large in leakages/drip wastage. mind, Matrix Clothing, Gurgaon organized a blood donation General health camps are also camp in its unit. The camp was organized in association with Commenting on what drives the being organised every six months. Lions Club, Sohna (Gurgaon) and AIIMS’ team. In all, 103 management at Matrix Clothing Such activities have proved very employees, including the middle- and senior-level officers, towards sustainability, Vipin helpful for the workers, making donated blood at this camp. shared, “We at Matrix believe in them aware of their health, even ethical and environment-friendly while saving money and time since “We got an overwhelming response from our employees. Many business operations rather they don’t have to go anywhere more employees had also volunteered for the camp, but could not than just doing business. We else for their health issues.” participate due to shortage of time and blood collecting kits. We started this initiative towards A team of Orient Craft Ltd., will soon be organizing another such event,” spokesman of the renewable energy 4-5 years company said in a statement, and adding, “It shows the Matrix comprising Anil Singh, Manager ago without any compulsion family’s spirit of service towards the society.” Representatives (Admin); Jessy, Medical or mandatory requirement of Lions Club, Sohna (Gurgaon) and AIIMS’ team appreciated Representative; Aanchal, Seema, by the Government. Buyers Matrix Clothing for coming forward with such enthusiasm for a Nisha, Yogesh and Dinesh too support such initiatives noble cause. (Welfare Department of Orient comprehensively which leads Craft), headed by Suranjana Dey, to establishing a credibility; who is the Welfare Officer of besides of course, we get good the company assisted the team business opportunities also.” of doctors during the camp. A Even the workforce at the token of appreciation was also company is motivated and proud presented to the team from Eye to be working with a company Health Centre by Anil Singh. that is sustainable which is Orient Craft Ltd. is one of the encouraging for the management leading apparel exporters in India. to move even further beyond. Under the leadership of CMD “We have a plan to put up a ZLD Sudhir Dhingra, the company has (Zero Liquid Discharge) process a total of 32,000 workers in its in the near future to re-cycle various apparel manufacturing the water consumption which units across Delhi-NCR. The will make us less dependent company has a turnover of Rajeev Dhawan, Director (extreme right) and Vipin Gupta (2nd from left), AVP, Personal & on the water supplies from the Admin. of Matrix Clothing with Lions Club team Rs. 1,540 crore (US $ 237 million) authorities or ground water in the last fiscal 2014-15. extractions,” concludes Vipin.

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 17 SUSTAINABILITY

Four US retailers barred for mislabelling products Supermarket Kaufland joins ecently, the Federal Trade ‘Detox campaign’ RCommission (FTC) has by Greenpeace received a court order of barring four US retailers – Bed large number of retail Bath and Beyond; Nordstrom; Achains are increasingly JCPenney; and Backcountry. extending their support to com LLC – for mislabelling and the “Detox” campaign by advertising rayon textiles as Greenpeace against use of made of bamboo. All of them polluting chemicals in the have been also ordered to pay textile industry. Kaufland, civil penalties totalling US $ 1.3 a supermarket chain, is million. According to the FTC the latest addition to this press release, the four companies list. Kaufland confirmed broke the law by continuing to the signing of a voluntary misrepresent or mislabel rayon commitment, refraining from products as bamboo despite using polluting substances receiving warning letters from claims Jessica Rich, Director, and Bamboo Blend Napkins; in the manufacturing of the FTC in 2010. “It’s misleading Bureau of Consumer Protection. Nordstrom selling similar textiles and shoes by 2020. to call bamboo that has been This bar is specifically for the products online and its store, The campaign against chemically processed into rayon 4 retailers’ products that have including a Gypsy 05 Bamboo polluting chemicals in textile simply bamboo. With consumers been mislabelled. This includes, Racerback Hi-Lo Dress and production was initiated in in the midst of their holiday Bed Bath & Beyond’s mislabelled Degree Six Clothing the Bamboo 2011 by Greenpeace, which shopping, it’s important for them items, also sold through its Long Sleeve Tee; JCPenney’s called on retailers like to know that textiles marketed subsidiary BuyBuy Baby, Muk Luks 4-pk Men’s Bamboo Edeka/Netto, Norma or the as environmentally friendly including dozens of bamboo Socks and Backcountry.com’s Metro subsidiary Real to join alternatives may not be as ‘green’ textiles such as Aden + Anais Bridgedale Bamboo Crew hands in this movement. The as they were led to believe,” Bamboo 3-Pack Muslin Swaddles Socks for men. Edeka group (Hamburg), a textile private label, also ensured their support to Greenpeace in the Adidas and Parley raise awareness on Ocean Life campaign and would meet the Oeko-Tex 100 Standard. uring the occasion of consists of an uppers made with can’t afford to wait for directions According to the textile COP21 in Paris, the German any longer. Together with expert of Greenpeace, D plastic content and a midsole athletic footwear and apparel Kirsten Brodde, Aldi, Lidl which is 3D printed using the network of Parley for retailer, Adidas and Parley and Rewe/Penny, Tchibo recycled polyester and gill net the Oceans we have started for the Oceans, a network and the Swiss chain Coop content. The shoe was unveiled taking actions and creating organisation raising awareness have become a trend- at an event organised by Parley new sustainable materials and of critically endangered ocean setter in this initiative for the Oceans titled, ‘Parley for innovations for athletes. We life, showcased an innovative among the supermarkets the Oceans x COP21 – Oceans. want to bring everyone from the footwear concept, the 3D-printed and the progress report Climate. Life.’ industry to the table and create Ocean Plastic shoe midsole, to suggests that almost all sustainable solutions for big demonstrate how the industry “World leaders’ forging an harmful chemicals have global problems,” reveals Eric can re-think design and agreement is wonderful, but we been banned. However, Liedtke, Adidas Group Executive contribute to stop ocean plastic shouldn’t need to be told to do programmes for collection Board member responsible for pollution. The concept shoes the right thing. The industry and recycling of textiles Global Brands. Whereas Cyrill would set in motion. Gutsch, Founder of Parley for the Oceans added, “With a The Detox Campaign is framework of political goodwill designed for a toxic-free in place, it is the right moment future, as today the world to transform words into action. is filled with hazardous Therefore, Parley in Paris is chemicals causing havoc all about updating knowledge, from the factory to the high sharing visions, fine-tuning street to our homes. The strategies, creating concepts and purpose of the campaign was to expose the direct forging collaborations in order to links between global clothing kick-start change. We are really brands, their suppliers and excited to have Adidas supporting toxic water pollution around us in this journey and showing the world. how you can take concrete steps in the right direction.”

18 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com 19 Apparel Online India BUYERSTRATEGY

BUYERS VERY UPBEAT OF 2016… STABILISING GLOBAL MARKET TO SUPPORT BUSINESS FROM THE COUNTRY

SANJEEV KOTHAVADE, COUNTRY HEAD – ARVIND ARORA, CEO, TAURUSTEX It has been a very RAW MATERIALS AND FABRICS, ITOCHU INDIA PVT. LTD. Growth in sourcing from India in 2015: What I have challenging year experienced is very slow demand in overall textiles. Yarn demand was stagnant till August and picked up only 2-3 for the industry but Growth in sourcing from India in 2015: Around 20% increase in enquiries. Actual materialisation is months ago due to some garment orders in domestic market. overall the picture much less. Reason is meeting quality standards and Slow demand is due to overall sluggish global demand. delivery schedules. has been positive Biggest challenges faced in 2015: The year 2015 was for the apparel Biggest challenges faced in 2015: To match quality our fourth year as a start-up and we discovered that the standards prescribed and ensure timely deliveries. road ahead was more challenging in terms of maintaining segment while the customer and supplier base. Poor demand in textiles was textile segment Hottest products shipped last year: Scarves, fabrics for our biggest challenge to look for new areas of revenue womenswear and home textiles. generation, where we diversified into corporate uniformwear has not been so and sweaters division, sportswear and performance upbeat… A report Mood for 2016: Very optimistic and from previous garments like tracksuits, swimwear, etc. In addition to our experience, I think that we will succeed to core yarn, fabric and fashion apparel sourcing business. by credit rating overcome challenges. agency ICRA in Hottest products shipped last year: Sublimation Positives & challenges foreseen: Positives are the tracksuits/lycra leggings and cotton yarns. August 2015, based experience we gained and challenges foreseen are of labour shortages and skilled labours availability at Mood for 2016: Continuing with the core commodities on movement manufacturer’s level. products like yarn exports and domestic sales, adding in exports, had value-added products and strengthening the sportswear and New goals in 2016: We are mainly focusing on exports to performancewear sector in garments. predicted that prime retailers as well as Indian domestic brands. India’s apparel Positives & challenges foreseen: We see all positives Message to the industry in the New Year: It’s necessary in textiles where companies would now be upgrading exports for 2015 are to keep ‘Quality at Highest Consideration’, followed up with themselves to compete in terms of higher skills and work likely to increase to ‘Meetings Committed and Delivery Schedules’. harder to maintain current businesses. Complacency would reduce and concept of ‘selling by what is being produced US $ 18 billion and will sell’, will gradually diminish from market place. This to US $ 20 billion in will enhance quality of product and services to end consumerism. We see challenges to find and retain talent. 2016 as against US $ 16.5 billion in 2014. New goals in 2016: To maintain existing customers and continue to grow new partners for better value to Talking to various the customers. buyers working in Message to the industry in the New Year: Respect and different markets reward hard working, truthful and honest professionals/ and with different people and develop this culture to promote such individuals for a healthier working environment. products on sourcing trends in 2015 and their expectations in 2016, many interesting insights were unveiled…, some of them are presented.

20 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com BUYERSTRATEGY

YATISH MONCOURT, MANAGING DIRECTOR, ALPANA RAZDAN, GENERAL MANAGER – INDIA, FRANCIS WACZIARG PVT. LTD. PAKISTAN, BANGLADESH, FALABELLA TANUJA SINHA ROY, COUNTRY HEAD, Growth in sourcing from India in 2015: The growth Growth in sourcing from India in 2015: India office grew SEARS SOURCING was very marginal, though we would have done much at a pace of 30% in the year 2015; this has been our growth INDIA PVT. LTD. better. The major reason for not very impressive growth is path since the inception of the office in 2011. the slow recovery of economy in Europe, being our biggest Growth in sourcing from Biggest challenges faced in 2015: The biggest challenge trading partner. India in 2015: We saw more was the slow economic growth and political instability in than 70% growth from this Biggest challenges faced in 2015: Over the years, South America which reduced the buying power of our region this year. the challenges more or less remained the same as the customer base. Nonetheless we have been able to grow requirements and demands of the buyers are increasing, year after year due to our strong product and sourcing base, Biggest challenges faced in especially with respect to finishes, pricing, value additions, out of both India and Bangladesh. 2015: Were more internal. etc. Another area where we faced some difficulties is in meeting the increasing demand on REACh compliance. Hottest products shipped last year: Indian product saw Mood for 2016: Upbeat! a boom in South America. Falabella organized a special Hottest products shipped last year: CPD tee, shrug ‘India’ event in all our flagship and key stores across Latin Positives & challenges & Bolero with Lace, and sublimation printed tops. America which showcased Indian handcrafted product. We foreseen: Dollar being strong saw a substantial amount of growth in our turnover in 2015 is a positive sign; we will Mood for 2016: Upbeat and positive. as the Indian handwriting made a strong comeback not just be watching Government in Falabella but in all the other fashion retailers based out of regulations on cotton export Positives & challenges foreseen: Today Indian economy South America as well. which impacts prices. is in a better position to absorb the external currency turbulences. Currency is almost stable and is not expected Mood for 2016: The mood is upbeat yet a lot of work needs to move in wide range in the near future. Steps taken by to be done in terms of timelines, product and price. India MANISH JAIN, the Government like increased drawback rate, interest loses advantage over China due to a longer sailing period. MANAGING DIRECTOR, subvention & interest rates based on the marginal cost Indian exporters need to come out of the frame of mind of DELTA SOURCING of funds coupled with enough cotton stock and low oil working only on 90 days and similar timelines. We need to price, all are contributing to positive mood in the industry. get more competitive in terms of pricing as well. Growth in sourcing from Attracting the buyers to buy from us and maintaining the India in 2015: The business rate of growth, is as usual, the challenge, as more and more Positives & challenges foreseen: Well China is getting was stable for India, with avenues are opening for the buyers to source. expensive and we do have some anti-dumping laws marginal growth and we too which will help us in gaining some business volumes. saw the same trend. New goals in 2016: The new goal we set for ourself is to The challenge is of course to offer better product than increase the average FOB value. Consequently, product Bangladesh and China and offer competitive prices as well. Biggest challenges faced diversification and value additions are the challenges in I do see all basics moving out of India eventually unless in 2015: Getting the right front of us. we gear up to offer competitive prices. Bangladesh can product with a WOW factor to now produce fashion basics and can do smaller quantities excite the buyers. Message to the industry in the New Year: My suggestion as well; this is a huge challenge as the Indian exporter still to the industry is very basic: ‘Invest in training and skill requires a MOQ in spite of having higher prices than other Hottest products shipped development’. If we want to use our full potential, we need manufacturing regions. last year: Scarves, yarn the skilled labour force. Though the Government has started dyed blouses. many programmes for the skill development, it is the duty of New goals in 2016: We do hope to increase our sourcing the industry to utilize this opportunity and make use of this from Bangladesh; this extra business however will be Mood for 2016: Optimistic facility fully for their own and for the country’s interest. moving out of China so our Indian sourcing base at the but cautious. moment is secure. Positives & challenges foreseen: We are hopeful that global markets will stabilise. Challenges are many, but price competitiveness and better efficiencies in delivery are the biggest.

New goals in 2016: Exploring new business opportunities.

Message to the industry in the New Year: The industry needs to work on pricing through better productivity to give buyers a better chance in the global market.

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 21 TEX-FILE

Of late due to over-capacities TEXTILE COMPANIES ARE CHANGING of cotton yarn, 7 to 8 per cent spindles running in the STRATEGIES TO STAY COMPETITIVE country have been lying unused as China is also ndian companies exporting has increased its focus on Nappy yarn to China are more yarns (in PC and 100 per cent not buying; it is now being cautious today and are cotton), PC Slub yarn, PC Net anticipated that in near future Itrying to create a balance yarn, PC Club yarns, spandex some small spinning mills with the domestic market. in yarn dyeing, PV Vortex yarn Among the upfront companies, and Slub-Grindle yarn in last may actually close down TT Limited, Delhi is focusing few months. Pankaj Bhardwaj, because of non-viability of on domestic market, as well as AVP, (Yarn Marketing) and trying to develop some different Manish Mittal, Manager the business. Meanwhile, yarns; and just four months (Marketing) claimed, “We the demand of polyester is back they started slub yarns. don’t have thrust on regular JP Jain, VP, Marketing of products and are focusing on growing. In this backdrop, the the company says, “Demand value addition. In yarn segment, in domestic market is better we have bookings till January in some segments of yarns. end as Nahar is a brand in Size of orders in export is also itself and known for quality and not as per expectation or even commitment. As of now, we are comparable to those in the repeating the same order for the domestic market. We are trying third time, though quantities are to add organic yarns, some not huge but response is very double yarns, and compact good.” They are of the opinion yarns. With this variety of yarns that customers are looking for we are able to serve all the lower cost of the product, but segments of domestic market in value add. Higher segment so that our thrust on export is limited, so polyester or PC’s reduces. Dependency on China demand has increased. can create a problem so we are Every company is not very avoiding it.” The company is comfortable with changing also increasing its yarn capacity paradigms of the market and as its capacity of producing slub some have already diversified, yarn is 10 per cent of production like KKP Group of Mills, (2 tonnes a day out of 20 tonnes) Namakkal which moved from Differential yarns of KKP Group of Mills and Amarjothi Spinning Mills and focus is to increase it to 20 cotton to modal, rayon, tencil, per cent. Similarly, it is trying to and whatever is possible. add 15 to 20 per cent in compact P. Raaja, Senior Manager – yarns. By this the company will Fabrics informed, “Almost six Indian textile industry is ready have a wider range and it can months before we exported cater to all types of customers to step into 2016 with newer yarn at US $ 3.15 per kg (while and that too with volume. TT today’s price is just US $ 2.23); developments and fresh Limited is not focusing on so 90 cents is a drastic change polyester, as Jain believes that offerings. Though the largest in raw material level, whereas cotton will dominate the market basic raw material price focus is still on cotton blends, with its qualities despite the has not come down. We are marginal difference in rates. many players have accepted diversifying as earlier we were “Shankar 6 cotton of India is into cotton only and we did not that polyester is something best for basic items like Tees do Dobbie’s, but now we have which will dominate the and reasonable from price orders of the same. Still we point of view. Quality of Indian have not transformed ourselves future. Apparel Online talked cotton has improved over the into polyester company as our to many companies about years,” he adds. machines, skills, workers are Nahar Industrial Enterprises, used to cotton production, so their products and opinion on Ludhiana claims to be happy diversification in modal, rayon, the same. with its current business and linen is bit easier as compared

22 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com TEX-FILE

to polyester. And polyester is and slub yarns polyester cotton again a very competitive field; with extensive count range. we are located in south while Amol Kaushal, Marketing polyester’s main consumption Head says, “Market scenario is in western India. So it doesn’t is not too good as of now but seem so viable for us and we we are booked for one month are also using cotton and linen so we are happy. As our roots blend, cotton flux. The new year are in ginning we have full seems to be very difficult year control on cotton which gives and growth is not possible.” us consistency in quality.” He The company is exporting also accepts that polyester 30 per cent of its production and demand will definitely grow. is in the process to export to Secondly, if looking at Indian

Amol Kaushal, Marketing Head, JP Jain, VP – Marketing, Sri Bhagirath Textiles TT Limited

Vietnam also, looking to the TPP domestic market, cotton is and Chinese firm’s investment now out of budget from lower- in Vietnam. middle class. Time is not far Not impacted much with market away when only pure cotton will conditions, there are companies be used by high class customers. moving forward and growing, Viscose is regenerated cellulose like Sri Bhagirath Textiles, fibre and no matter how much (Part of SB Rander Group), one can enhance the properties Nagpur which have deep roots of viscose, it can’t compete in ginning and a state-of-the-art with natural fibre. Physical manufacturing unit, now one properties of viscose are better year old with 40,000 spindles, than cotton but chemical and out of this one plant of properties of viscose and 26,000 is for cotton spun yarn. compatibility with body are far In synthetic (14,000 spindles), behind compared to cotton. The it has 100 per cent polyester company is working on some and blends, open-end mélange new fibres also which seems to

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 23 TEX-FILE

P. Raaja (right), Senior Manager – Fabrics, KKP Group of Mills UF Chanraj (left), Sales Manager, Amarjothi Spinning Mills Raj Kapadia, President – Sales & Business, with his colleague with his colleague Sanathan Textiles

be in demand for the future. Sanathan Textiles specializes Using lycra in a lot in its Vertical setup and totally into in polyester textured, filament products, the company offers mélange yarn in all blends like yarn and mainly does the slub terry, yarn dyed terry, 100 per cent cotton, cotton- spinning part. Larger markets lurex, various kinds of knits, viscose, cotton-polyester, etc., for the company are Panipat, etc. “We are working on sparkle Amarjothi Spinning Mills, Ludhiana, Amritsar and it yarn, burnout and cross dyeing “We don’t just Tirupur started offering knit has a lot of variety for these fabrics,” says Jasvinder Singh, offer yarn to our fabric two years ago and now markets. Talking about Plant Manager of the company. clients. We try to works with all top level brands, development on polyester in Along with new developments support our clients be it Nike, adidas, Gap, etc. India Raj Kapadia, President and offerings, many companies for the best use of With total 45,000 spindles and – Sales & Business of the have also focused on support that yarn. Many production capacity of 25 tonnes company says, “India lacks to their clients like Nimbark big companies per day, the company is going development in polyester, like Raymond, Fashions, offering value- for expansion of yarn as well it is because of the kind of added grey yarn and trying Siyaram, etc. finishing we have and the take yarns from as fabric. “Every year we are to give different effects by larger part of the industry us. Similarly, growing by 15 to 20 per cent. different dyeing. It is serving believes in cheaper products. Shahi Exports and Currently, our fabric capacity its customers with proper It makes it difficult to invest in Orient Craft are is 2 to 2.5 tonnes per day and guidance and by offering dyeing also our clients.” our target is to increase it to new developments, especially chart and technical support high-end. If you look at the – Mahesh Maheshwari, 5 tonnes per day very soon. We to make a better product as it Director, Nimbark Fashions can offer all kinds of blends like buyers making high-end fabric demonstrates the final products cotton viscose, PC, for garments, it is limited.” possible with a particular yarn. etc. I feel there is not The company does mix and “We don’t just offer yarn to much difference in match of different lusters, our clients. We try to support the price of cotton different types of yarn within our client for the best use of and polyester; it is the polyester itself. “We do lot that yarn. Many big companies almost less than of coloured yarns, mainly dope like Raymond, Siyaram, etc. 10 per cent. When dyed. We keep bringing new take yarns from us. Similarly, it comes to long- colours, now we are trying Shahi Exports and Orient lasting capability, to mix nylon and polyester. Craft are also our clients. We people may prefer People are now looking at do lot of R&D to offer newer polyester but recycled yarn and industry range of products and have comfort is there only is reacting positively to this,” special team for that. We are in cotton. For a short says Kapadia. offering finished fabric for men’s period polyester Another company that has shirting and yarn for knitting as may take over but invested in value addition well as weaving. We do cotton, cotton market will for yarns and fabrics is man-made, viscose, linen, remain as it is,” Bir Horizons, Noida, which modal and many more blends,” argues UF Chanraj, has a capacity of 15 tonnes per said Mahesh Maheshwari, Sales Manager of day and has recently installed Director, Nimbark Fashions, the company. rotary printing machine for having factories in Gujarat Having production which it is getting very good and Coimbatore. The company unit at Silvasa response. The company is has capacity of 28,000 spindles and head office certified by a number of buyers while another 60,000 spindles in Mumbai, like Inditex, Macy’s, etc. are dedicatedly working for it.

24 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com TEX-FILE

Industry ‘divided’ on Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme The Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs (CCEA), chaired by Prime Minister Narendra Modi, has approved the introduction of Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS) in place of the existing Revised Restructured Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (RR­TUFS) for technology upgradation of the textiles industry, with effect from the date of notification of the scheme. Industry is divided on this step as some associations are happy with it while others are objecting.

budget provision of US $ 2,742 the TXC shall be closely associated been taken to ‘benefit large enterprises’ million (Rs. 17,822 crore) has with entrepreneurs for setting up the and the amendments were confusing been approved, of which US $ industry, including processing proposals as they were not clear on whether old 1,949 million (Rs. 12,671 crore) under the new scheme, verifying assets benefits would be withdrawn from A created jointly with the bankers and is for committed liabilities under the the small sector. Bhushan Abbi, ongoing scheme, and US $ 792 million maintaining close liaison with the President of Home Furnishing and (Rs. 5,151 crore) is for new cases under State Government agencies. Textile Cluster, Ludhiana said that ATUFS. The amended scheme would The industry is generally very happy his association is planning a state-wide give a boost to “Make in India” in the with the ATUFS but few associations strike over the decision. Both of them textile sector. It is expected to attract have voiced their objections to it. have objected to the removal of a portion investment to the tune of Rs. 1 lakh crore South India Spinners Association that gives 30 per cent subsidy on textile (US $ 15.385 million) and create over 30 (SISPA), Coimbatore has expressed machinery that are priced between lakh jobs. Under the new scheme, there disappointment about it and appealed Rs. 75 lakh and Rs. 5 crore, calling the will be two broad categories – Apparel the Centre to reconsider the interests of decision ‘pro-corporate and anti-SME’. & Garment and Technical Textiles, in M Senthilkumar, Chairman, The which 15 per cent subsidy would be Southern India Mills’ Association provided on capital investment, subject According to sources, (SIMA), Coimbatore is of the opinion to a ceiling of US $ 4.61 million (Rs. 30 that the ATUFS would enable the claims of US $ 185 million crore) for entrepreneurs over a period of textile industry to ease their financial five years. Secondly, the remaining sub­ (Rs. 1,200 crore) during the pressure and facilitate investments. sectors would be eligible for subsidy at so-called black-out period Thanking PM Narendra Modi and Union a rate of 10 per cent, subject to a ceiling (from June 28, 2010, to Minister of State for Textiles, Santosh of US $ 3.76 million (Rs. 20 crore) on April 27, 2011) have been Kumar Gangwar for the scheme, the similar lines. SIMA Chief appealed the Centre to rejected. Concerned The scheme will also focus on promotion reconsider all left-out cases as the of Technical Textiles, promoting textile mills may challenge investments have also been made and conversion of existing looms to better this decision in court. in the absence of support, investments technology looms for improvement in worth over Rs. 65,000 crore (US $ 10,000 quality and productivity. The scheme million) are likely to become NPAs. encourages better quality in the the SME spinning mills sector. Although Prabhu Dhamodharan, Secretary, processing industry and checks on SISPA had welcomed the scheme as Indian Texpreneurs Federation (ITF), the need for import of fabrics by the a whole, the association claimed that Coimbatore said that the Tamil Nadu garment sector. All cases pending with the scheme has totally neglected the textile industry will now be benefited the Office of Textile Commissioner, spinning mills of the SME sector. C the most from this scheme, since the which are complete in all respects, Varadharajan, President, SISPA said, majority of the pending TUF will go shall be provided assistance under the “The SME spinning sector has been towards Tamil Nadu. Being a cotton ongoing scheme and the new scheme completely neglected, since they are yarn producing state, Tamil Nadu mills will be given prospective effect. Office unable to avail the benefits as a whole.” are more capital-intensive units, and of Textile Commissioner (TXC) is Harish Dua, President of Knitwear hence, any pending funds infusion like being reorganised and its offices are and Apparel Exporters’ Organisation, this will help mills to strengthen the to be set up in each state. Officers of Ludhiana says that the decision had working capital.

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 25 TEX-FILE

Rashmi Verma named Textiles Secretary Tex Find ashmi Verma, an IAS officer Before that, two previous Rof 1982 cadre (Bihar), is secretaries in the MoT the new Secretary, Ministry got very little time as well – of Textiles (MoT). Earlier Zohra Chatterji worked in she was working as a Special MoT just for 18 months from Secretary, Department of January 31, 2013 to July 31, Revenue of the Finance Ministry. 2014 and prior to that Kiran The Appointments Committee Dhingra got even less time, of the Cabinet cleared her with only one year, as she appointment. Post Graduate in worked on the same post from TEXTILE PRODUCED Political Science with an MBA January 2012 to January 2013. FROM UPCYCLED degree from University of Hull, However, Rita Menon got almost OCEAN-TRAWLED Rashmi is 57 years old and is three years in the MoT from PLASTIC BY ECOALF expected to be a positive sign for February 1, 2009 to December the textile industry as there are 31, 2011.“They should give at Ecoalf, the urban- chances that she can serve as a deliver, particularly at the grass- least three years’ time to any minimalist apparel top officer for 3 years. root level. Even the outgoing secretary-level officer, as any brand based in Madrid, Experts in the textile industry textile secretary got only 17 person working at such higher is seeing opportunity insisted that any secretary in months to serve, and whatever level needs to have a long-term in waste. The brand the MoT should get at least he did for the textile industry, vision,” said Prashant Agarwal, has recycled everything three years, so that he/she can results are yet to materialise. JMD, Wazir Advisors. from decommissioned fishing nets, post-consumer plastic bottles, worn- out tyres, cotton waste, Arvind Limited honoured for exemplary energy conservation and even discarded coffee grounds into city- rvind Limited – the Indian it’s been especially recognized row”. ‘The Award of Excellence’ slicking jackets, shoes, Aintegrated textile and with ‘Award for Excellence’. The given to Arvind is on the back of and bags. Ecoalf plans apparel giant has been honoured award was received by Susheel nearly 13 per cent reduction in to recycle plastic waste by the Ministry of Power, Kaul, CEO – Lifestyle Fabrics specific consumption in thermal into pellets, thread, Government of India with the (Shirting, Khaki & Knitwear) energy and 10 per cent reduction fabrics, and eventually first prize in the National Energy Arvind Limited and Harvinder in specific consumption in clothing. Together with Conservation Award 2015 in Rathee – Head Engineering, electrical energy in comparison its waste-reclamation the textile sector. Arvind has Santej Plant Arvind Limited. to the last financial year. partners, Ecoalf says it bagged this award on account hopes to create high- On the occasion of receiving the Arvind introduced various of its energy savings achieved quality filaments that prestigious award, in a statement initiatives at its plant to conserve through various initiatives by its boast up to 100 per cent released by the company, Kaul energy like replacement of unit situated at Santej, Gujarat. recycled content. averred, “Improvement in TFL with energy-efficient LED Arvind has emerged victorious, energy efficiency in our plant lighting, installation of energy- Ecoalf won’t be wanting for the second time in a row, is a sustained activity, we efficient compressors, VFDs for materials. The world’s after competing with 32 textile appreciate Government of India’s in various machines, using of oceans are brimming companies vying for the award. with 5.25 trillion pieces of recognition of our plant as the day lights in production halls, plastic, weighing some Since Arvind has received most energy-efficient textile unit replacement of existing pumps 269,000 tonnes in all. First position, consecutively in India for the second year in a with energy efficient pumps. Although Ecoalf says it’s on track to present the first ever fashion collection RSWM wins Bronze Trophy derived from seabed plastic in June 2016, the RSWM’s Mandapam unit process isn’t without has won the Bronze Trophy its challenges. Parallel for the third highest export actions, such as Raw for of cotton yarn (processed the Oceans’ line of denim yarns) in Category 2 (export and Adidas x Parley for the performance between Oceans’ concept sneaker, Rs. 50 crore and Rs. 500 crore) comprise mostly shoreline during the year 2014-2015. plastic and reclaimed Here Kul Bhushan, Head – fishing nets. Ecoalf’s efforts Exports of the company, is are for actively removing seen receiving the award from litter from the sea and not Minister of Textiles Santosh restricted to shore. Kumar Gangwar and Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner

26 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com HOME FASHION FUTURE

WOMEN ENTREPRENEURS FROM MAKING HOMES TO MANAGING HOME FASHION BUSINESS SUCCESSFULLY

Most of us will agree that a woman has more aesthetic sense and feel, especially when it comes to decorating a house. It is also said that a ‘man’s home is his wife’s castle’. But what about those women who are leading the home furnishing export business…? Do these women have any edge or benefit compared to their male counterparts or is there no difference at all.Apparel Online talked to a few women entrepreneurs who are running some of the leading home furnishing export businesses in the country independently or are fully involved in the same, and the bottomline is that be it small- or medium-level export house, or a huge setup, these passionate women are happy with their overall working as well as whatever they have achieved…

anaging marketing and and prefer to work directly with women and raise her voice to get the job done. production in her family doing the handwork from their homes, Having served as a freelance designer business, Neeru Jain of being women it is easy for me to work, to an overseas company and worked for Sharco International, Delhi to discuss things with them and to get 11 years in various Indian companies, alsoM takes lead in various sourcing Rachna Singh started her own export better results from them as they are more house in 1997 and for her it was ‘one exhibitions/BSMs and she strongly comfortable with me as compared to any woman show’ as she did everything agreed on the strong aesthetical appeal other contractor.” in women which gives an edge to them herself to set up business. “Women should in home fashion segment. “I feel that What else apart from this natural flare come out of their comfort zone and work design and colour sense is something of aesthetics that helps these women hard,” she says. in-built in most women and they have achievers in home furnishing business…, There are some other benefits for better understanding of the same… It is Anjali Garg of Eastern Fashion, Delhi women in international trade, though our strength,” says Neeru, adding further says, “In last 14 years of my experience these are not applicable for all but still that women get more appreciation for in this business, I have observed that matter. Tania Bhalla, Director, Spectra their work which also motivates them overseas buyers are very respectful Shades International of Delhi, a second generation inheritor of the family business which she took charge of from her mother and also has an office in the US which is being taken care of by her sister, shares. “Being a women-headed organization we have some benefits due to the Minority or Woman Owned Business (MWBE) Certification in the US. It gives edge to a woman entrepreneur in various business ventures. New buyers prefer to work with us due to this certification. If something of this sort would be available in India too, it would be great for Anjali Garg, Director, Asmita Dwivedi Paliwal, Director, Tania Bhalla, Director, women entrepreneurs.” Spectra Shades Eastern Fashion Abhiasmi International (Paliwal Group) Spectra Shades International International is a two decades old buying house and Tania is handling the business to work hard and give better results. towards women compared to male from the last 12 years. Asmita Dwivedi Paliwal, Director, counterparts and even more comfortable However strong these ladies may be, there Abhiasmi International (Paliwal to discuss things with. Similarly, even are still many factories that don’t prefer Group), Panipat adds, “Women bring the staff of the factory gives more women on the shop floor, but overall, home a unique perspective on aesthetics in respect when a woman is the boss of that and apparel export business is considered textiles, as perseverance and attention to unit.” Having a little different opinion, a very dignified job for women. Having details is their innate strength.” Asmita is Rachna Singh, Proprietor, Rachna given almost two decades to the family into this business from almost a decade. Designs, Delhi does not feel that there business, Neeru wishes that her daughter Currently Abhiasmi International is is any real advantage of being a women Aayushi Jain who is pursuing Textile working to promote women empowerment and the fact that women have been Designing, should also join the same by offering more jobs to women who come more aesthetical in their approach and business. “I have observed that south from under-privileged backgrounds. command respect from overseas buyers India has less women entrepreneurs. They Sharmita P Roy heading Natural Home is not a new phenomenon. In fact, she should come forward, it is a good business International, Ghaziabad agreeing with opines that though being a woman, who to be in, notwithstanding the extensive the aesthetical appeal point adds, “As is generally perceived as mild, she also travelling that the profile requires,” I am into handwork-oriented products sometimes has to put her foot down concludes Neeru.

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 27 28 Apparel Online India DIRECTIONS BY

FALL ’16 COLOUR TRENDS THE COLOURS OF THE SEASON Fall is now much more than the traditional greys, whites and blacks and the sooner we start playing with different tones of the season, the more options we are provided with to experiment on various combinations that make colour trends as interesting in the fall as they are in the summer. Earth tones are the most influential in the coming season due to the resurgence of brown, as neutrals go darker than usual. Red dominates the brighter shades and burgundy is the most popular choice for the jewel tones. Mid-tones are decidedly more vibrant and the cleansing palette includes soft, barely-there pastels…

Earth Tones

he earth tone’s palette is incomplete without a shade of brown, which will make a comeback in Twarmer tones such as toffee, caramel and copper. Olive acts as the darker shade here with grey undertones; olive combines best with marigold and flax colour. Copper, which is the richest tone of brown, will be popular, fused with shades of plum and dark chocolate. Rust moves away from the orange hues and takes on a more red shade, paired with tones of red orange.

Fendi

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 29 DIRECTIONS BY

Neutral Tones

his season the neutral shades are taking on a more darker palette where blue plays a significant Trole – ranging from steel blue to teal and using navy as its base colour. Brown also becomes noticeably important with dark chocolate and flax. Wheat as a shade is paired with rich plum, and grey hues include dark charcoal and slate. Teal evolves from dark to deeper blue tonalities. Dark chocolate is certainly the deepest brown this season, leveraged mostly on outerwear, whereas flax evolves from a lighter shade of hazy taupe into an earthy brown colour.

Lemaire

Bright Tones

he bright colour palette will mainly be dominated by the primary shade red which continues to Tadd vibrancy to clothes. Scarlet red being the most appreciated tone while other warm bright shades include sunshine yellow and red orange. Talking about the cooler shades, blue and midnight purple remain relevant, adding magenta pink to the mix. Red proves to be highly influential colour on the runways and its deeply saturated scarlet shade can be paired well with neutrals like ceramic blue or sand brown.

Dolce & Gabbana

30 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com DIRECTIONS BY

Jewel Tones

ewel tones are known to be synonymous with richness and being enchanting. Red remains Jthe powerful source behind this colour inspiration, which is led by deep burgundy, extending to crimson. Burgundy combines well with magenta, tangerine or salmon, which brings certain freshness to the palette. Cyan will also make a comeback that sets off the teal tones whereas; forest adds the much-needed shades of green. A substitute for navy, indigo can be seen in collections. Purple will be seen in shades of eggplant and a darker Byzantium, and bronze is added to balance out all of these shades.

Burberry

Mid Tones

lue plays a big role in the mid-tones palette starting with a vibrant hue and extending to baby Bblue. The combination of baby blue with camel stands out. Warm colours will be represented with tangerine orange and citrine yellow, including light lilac and violet orchid. To simply cleanse the palettes, ceramic pink, lavender grey and biscuit come into play. Beige plays a pivotal role too with taupe and foundation shades. Ivory is the answer to the need for off-white in the coming season while dust grey rounds up the palette.

Boss

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 31 FASHIONBUSINESS

TREND ALERT

While the fashion of 90s is on the verge of extinction, it was no surprise to witness the Pre-Fall 2016 runways swathed with looks where women’s fashion trends took a serious feminine turn. Under-worn clothing was borrowed and fashioned in various ways to be used as an outerwear and to fit the changing needs of the consumer and the trends. Designers have successfully altered a slip dress and this newly introduced version seems more feminine than ever before. With the runways shouting and pulling in the summer silhouette into the fall vicinity, the slip dress has become what the industry calls as an ‘all-season-clothing’. More and more exporters are catching on to the runway trend of using a slip dress as an outerwear and many retail stores are looking at slip dresses as their hot selling item.

he slip dress has quickly become the emergence of slip dress is not a big just about the only thing the surprise to the industry. industry wants to wear this fall Slip dresses aren’t just for the boudoir as well as upcoming summer. anymore. The slinky dress is having a TWhether our inspiration bloomed from major moment this winter after being sheer metallic slips in the nineties to a summer style rage earlier. The style- the lace-trimmed, patterned versions of setters are wearing it in every possible Louis Vuitton showed on Pre-Fall 2016 way, layered with a T-shirt over it to runway, it is an evergreen silhouette. It is solo with minimal accessories. One pass body-conscious without being bandaged through the Pre-Fall shows and it is and suggestive of physical form without evidently clear that the slip dress is primed being revealing. It can be skew romantic to be ‘The Thing’ for 2016. The style came or severe; sexy or modest; a curve- undone at Calvin Klein, lace-trimmed at skimming little slip or a simple dress to Céline and Chanel. Altuzarra created the be worn alone. illusion of an elongated neckline with a A slip dress is a woman’s dress that closely blush and black slip dress cut and sewn resembles an underslip. It is traditionally aesthetically in asymmetry; whereas, cut on the bias, with spaghetti straps. Slip Michael Kors presented a slip dress-cum- dresses first became widely worn in the lace gown giving a perfect option for a last decade of the 20th century, as part modern bride. of the underwear-as-outerwear trend. Winter options of the slip dress came in They were made from layered chiffon, all blacks. With this silhouettes getting polyester satins and charmeuse, and transferred from summer to winter, the were often trimmed with lace. Agreeing colours are also getting transformed. with the trend, Karthik Gupta, Partner, The blush, pinks and reds from past Aadi International shares that they are seasons are getting all muted. Bringing also working with chiffons and satins for their maxi slip dresses for the coming the actual feeling of boudoir to life, black season. The slip dress looked like an lace, chiffons, georgettes and satins are undergarment, but was intended to incorporated in styles. be seen, and the use of lace and sheer Orthodox Line of Thought elements, offer brief glimpse of the body beneath. With increased upsurge of Spaghetti strapped slip dresses are being bralets, boy shorts and bandeau tops, the developed in cottons and more professional trend of underwear as outerwear is in its fabrics take away the innerwear regime full bloom again and the reason behind Chanel of it, making it look more like an ordinary

32 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com FASHIONBUSINESS

maxi dress. Stella McCartney, Roland Mouret and Alexander Wang are among a few who experimented on these lines. There are a few exporters who have shifted their focus from the construction to the fabric and pattern. Pushpa Shahi, Senior Merchandiser, Creatnet Services throws light on their collection, which is in line with the trend, “Fabrics such as cotton, cambric, poplin and viscose modal are present in our women’s wear pieces, this time and we are also playing with typical men’s patterns like plaid and pinstripes.” Grunge Goddesses With the addition of a stoner-style hoodie, the slip dress gets a major dose of grunge- forward flair. On the Vetements Spring 2016 runway, a hunter green hoodie thrown over a lavender slip dress gave an instant relaxed effect, while Alexander Wang in Pre-Fall 2016 turned heads in a dark-blue lace – trimmed swath of silk and a blue scarf wrapped around the neck. About the ’90s… The revamp of the ’90s on the runway also brought back memories of a very throwback way to wear the slip dress. Seen on 2016 runways from Courrèges Alexander Wang to Emilio Pucci, the boudoir staple was layered over a long-sleeved shirt or a simple tee to counter the sexiness of the slip and to cut the sweetness. “We are doing slip dresses and tunic styles in cotton and cambric, mixed with laces and nets,” shares Pankaj Sanon, Manager, A.P. Handicrafts.

Slip Dress as a ‘Not-so- Favourite’ Silhouette… Though the slip dress is taking the runway by storm, but many exporters are not looking at the slip dress as an opportunity and are willing to skim through it. Aanchal Ahuja, Director, Ahuja Textile Traders, discussing further said, “The slinky, clinging silhouette is not flattering, period. Yes, for the super slender it has a certain soigné vibe, and for the body- conscious it’s a cooler alternative to a bandage dress or a corseted mini. But the slip dress is something of a nightmare for mass manufacturing, as it is a very niche focused style.” After conducting a snap poll among many exporters, many proposed layering the slip under an oversize sweater or top. Therefore, many styles are evolving with concealing top, off-shoulder blouses, attached shirts and shrugs with a maxi- Altuzarra slip dress underneath.

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 33 FASHIONRESOURCE

Dolce & Gabbana designs Abaya collection Isabel Marant up for sale he Italian label, Dolce T& Gabbana has a massive fan following in he French designer, Isabel the Middle East and thus, TMarant, who established her they have launched their brand in 1994, is reportedly keen first collection aimed at its to build her global presence, as Muslim consumers with a well expand into new categories range of Abayas and Hijabs including bags and leather goods. in its signature colours and The brand is said to be in talks prints. Some bear prints of to sell a majority stake of the Dolce & Gabbana staples, eponymous fashion label to private including flowers, fruit and equity firm Eurazeo. For Eurazeo, polkadots, constructed it wouldn’t be the first time that it in delicate silk, while has invested in a fashion house – it others are comprised of already owns shares in Desigual, neutral lace and satin. H&M enlisted its first Hijab- Moncler and Vestiaire Collective. Many labels now create wearing model last year, It is said to have been holding Ramadan collections, as and boutiques including discussions with Isabel Marant the religious celebration Net-A-Porter now offer a for several weeks and is currently gains recognition at a time ‘Ramadan Edit’ specially in the process of ‘conducting of increased retail activity tailored for the annual due diligence’ which could take for Muslim consumers. holy month. several months. The designer openly admits that her clothes pay homage to the original clothing, stating that she has never claimed SLIP INTO Fashion’s most Googled designer to ‘be the author of this tunic and SATIN is Raf Simons these designs’. oogle has released no doubt as a result of There is no doubt Gits most searched- his immediate departure that boudoir is back for terms of 2015 and its from Dior in October that in the most obvious fashion designer category made headlines around the form – the slip dress – has come up with some world, while Shoshanna and isn’t just reserved interesting results. Lonstein Gruss – founder of for the bedroom Raf Simons tops the list, American label Shoshanna anymore. There are – and Giambattista Valli languid styles in come in second and third different shades of place, this was followed satin that are on the by Thakoon Panichgul, runway. Celine has put Tadashi Shoji, Elie Saab, white slip dresses in Karl Lagerfeld, Christian satin on her catwalk Lacroix, Zuhair Murad and with black decorative Tommy Hilfiger. lace detailing on the neck, whereas Haider COLOUR STORY A/W 2016-17 by FASHION FORWARD TRENDS Ackermann has gone for styles in plum shades and a rocker PANTONE 18-2328 TPX look and Alexander Wang chose shades of beige for his lacy PANTONE 14-0846 TPX ensemble. Saint Laurent, Burberry Prorsum and Calvin PANTONE 19-3951 TPX Klein took the minimal approach with silver and gold slip dresses PANTONE 17-1663 TPX adding a slit or a few cut-outs to make the garment more exciting. PANTONE 17-1930 TPX

34 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com FASHIONRESOURCE

Hudson’s Bay buys Gilt for US $ 250 million; to be integrated with Saks Off 5th Women’s Health bans words like ‘Bikini Body’ udson’s Bay Co is to Hbuy online retailer itness magazine Women’s Health Gilt Groupe for US $ 250 Fjumps on the body-positive million to significantly bandwagon, banishing ‘bikini body’ boost its online operations. and its judgy sister ‘drop two sizes’ The deal confirms a Wall from its covers. In her editor’s note Street Journal report in for the January/February issue, the December that Gilt was editor-in-chief announced that it close to selling itself to would retire the phrases, and vowing Canada-based Hudson’s never to publish such phrases in its Bay. The retailer said it future covers. “You told us you don’t plans to integrate Gilt love the words shrink and diet, and with its off-price Saks we’re happy to say that we kicked Off 5th brand, including those to the cover curb ourselves introducing a return about US $ 500 million to by combining Gilt with over the past year,” Women’s Health programme for Gilt its fiscal 2016 sales. Gilt, Saks Off Fifth, we create editor-in-chief Amy Keller Laird purchases within Saks Off which sells excess fashion a true powerhouse in the wrote in the note. and luxury inventory at a off-price market. Gilt is 5th stores and opening The magazine held a survey and deep discount, claims more a leader in the mobile Gilt concept shops inside asked few questions to its readers than 9 million members, some locations. “With this space and also with before they banished the phrases. it said. transaction we are further personalization – every Like when asked – What words do accelerating both HBC’s “We have said consistently experience is different, and you appreciate seeing on our covers? all-channel offering and that e-Commerce is critical they do a spectacular job Roughly two-thirds of respondents Gilt’s growth,” Hudson’s (to HBC) and that the of email and personalized said ‘toned’; 78 per cent said ‘strong’; Bay Chief Executive Jerry off-price market is one of communications – and they 44 per cent said ‘sexy’; and just over Storch said. The retailer the most rapidly growing are state-of-the-art there, half said ‘lean’. said it expects Gilt to add parts of retail as well, so and we are not,” he added.

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 35 VALUEADDITION

All Things Quilted! FASHION QUILTING BACK IN BUSINESS AFTER 4 SEASONS…

Quilting came into the ith the rising popularity front line, as noticed in the spotlight in the A/W Wof quilted jackets and last few seasons, and with the quilted leather, jerseys and magnificent presence shown ’14-15 seasons when new satins have positioned the thick on the runways of Pre-Fall technology gave way woollens as the secondary 2016, quilting has marked for unique patterns and fabric choice for the winters. itself for being not only a major numerous designs. Since Quilting is the process of winter outerwear trend but then the shift from hand sewing two or more layers also a primary value addition of material together to make element. quilting to machine-done a thicker padded material, Adam Lippes and Rebecca has been well-established and the new collections are Taylor showcased a heavily and quilting continues witnessing quilting being done padded and quilted leather to be a design-staple in waffle, lattice or grid shapes. motorcycle jacket with zipper in winter wardrobes. In fact, thanks to the designers’ detailing; where on the other experimentations, the trend has The trend has peaked hand Rag & Bone unveiled revived and quilting is quietly its black quilted laid back Ganni again, with the recent infiltrating all aspects of our sweatshirt and Ganni added Pre-Fall 2016 runways wardrobes. With machines a touch of floral prints to its branding quilting as making fashion quilting quilted ice blue easier day by day, designers the trend of the season; sweatshirt short and exporters are witnessing combo. The quilting has emerged abstract new designs on many Quilting is even used collections in varied designs and commodities. as a detail on yokes, witnessed depths to suit all styles in Quilted fabric not only keeps button fronts, cuffs tessellated, every product category. the wearer warm but also adds and collars. Other geometric, 3D and tactile dimension to any than jackets, quilting argyle and Quintessentially, regarded is adorning shoes, piece or clothing or accessory, irregular as a value addition for bags and caps as well. adding natural volume to the patterns jackets, patterned quilting silhouette. Quilted materials applied techniques were seen in have had a dull image for skilfully feminine skirts, shorts, years owing to the traditional on cropped/ patterns being followed which quilted bombers, jackets, shirts and vests. With Rebecca Taylor made the overall look appear a dresses and bottoms by quilting coming back bit ordinary. Now machines are varied designers. Diesel into the spotlight again being set up and programmed Black Gold turned the trench on several fronts, this in such a way that not only around by adding the scalloped creative stitching method foundation quilting method but design in quilting. It is clear has cemented its position other intricate and ingenious that quilting trend has quilting techniques like progressed to a great extent as a huge surface trend, appliqué, Sashiko stitching, and with exporters accepting yet again… thread art and trapunto this technique in their product quilting can also be achieved development processes, and in the same machine. Providing machine manufacturers upmarket and stylish surface developing machineries to appeal with a progressive look develop quilted products; has made quilting a trend that definitely everything quilted has evolved for the better over has become popular whether it the years. The trend of quilted is clothing, quilted detailing or clothing is being pushed to the quirky accessories. Tomas Maier

36 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com VALUEADDITION

Today, quilting is seen everywhere… Burberry, QUILTING CATEGORIES TAKING THE INDUSTRY BY STORM Chloé, Balmain and Givenchy celebrated the comeback of quilted fashion and this season even scarves, belts, hats and shoes featured quilting. The stitching is also featured across the entire surface of coats, instead of chosen areas. In addition, several quilted textures are sometimes used to accentuate certain parts of the garment or accessory or to determine the silhouette – and it looks amazing. Quilting is even used as a detail on yokes, button fronts, cuffs and collars. In contrasting colours Chanel Diesel Black Gold Adam Lippes Maiyet or in matching shades, this decorative stitching FEMININE THE QUILT TRIP THE QUILTED QUILT AND highlights only the parts QUILTING BOMBER MATCH Quilting, weather done that should be accentuated. Quilting as a value in a folksy, sporty or The quilted bomber Mix and match has What’s more, quilting can addition technique tessellation-inspired is a classic and will always been a way have a slimming effect, gives out a very way, is being utilized remain one. Explored of doing innovative which is great news, functional appeal. But for presenting splurge- in all sorts of synthetic things, and mixing making this trend suitable with the growing need worthy pieces. Floral, and blended fabrics and matching quilting for everybody. From Zara of quilting in every geometric, abstract, like, rayon, wool, with normal fabric quilted fleece sweatshirts segment, the way polyester and cotton gives out a great effect. to Forever 21 quilted shorts, serrated, scalloped, quilting was seen has zigzag, curvy – all mix and many others, Combination of a the rage of quilted clothing changed. Patterned quilted bomber is not heavily quilted, light is gaining speed day by day. sorts of designs are quilting has become being seen on the solely being created quilted and non-quilted Not only fashion wear but of utmost importance. out of leather anymore. fabric gives an effect menswear sports attires, jackets now. Some Quilted fabrics are design variations also Patched, appliquéd of 3D mixed with 2D, quilted pullovers and combined together or embroidered, the providing depth to the have a tinge of sparkle baseball caps and shoes with laces and nets to quilted bomber is only entire style. have made many machine in it. Quilting as an bring out an unusual getting popular day VIRAJ SINGH, manufacturers jump into embroidery technique, amalgamation of by day. DESIGNER, RSVP the quilting bandwagon to with some sequin work feminine style with DIPIN OBEROI, MD, CLOTHING PVT. LTD. be able to give the correct is also added to make it biker chick look. DIPIN CREATIONS technology required for more interesting. V. PRAKASH, INDIA achieving varied patterns MD, AEON GARMENTS SHIKHAR KUMAR, and styles in the plethora of MD, C.M. FASHION product categories. EXPORTS

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 37 INDUSTRYWIRE

good in terms of business growth with usual Pratibha Syntex plans challenges. The biggest challenge has been the decline of Euro and Rand against the Dollar to touch US $ 250 million which has created a tremendous pressure on mark by 2020 prices and lot of business has moved out to ‘IT Raids’ rowth, recognition and sustainable cheaper countries like Bangladesh. at garment Ginitiatives can be the best parameters He further added, “Consolidation of business export houses to see a company’s overall performance…, is the latest strategy being applied by most in Noida and Pratibha Syntex, Indore stands tall of the customers. Centralized sourcing has on all these parameters as it bagged four been implemented by most of our customers coveted awards in 2015 – Global Leadership meaning that various divisions within Award in Sustainable Apparel (GLASA) their organisation have been integrated to 2015; Organic Cotton Round Table Innovation ndia’s apparel export may source from one centralised team instead of Challenge Award 2015; India not be that enthusiastic, but individual sourcing teams.” I International Trade Fair 2015 apparel exporters are making Atul also averred that for growth (Best Display Award-Integrated good money, at least some of there is a need of infrastructural Skill Development Scheme); and them, as was evident from the development, resolving of issues Maximum Employment Provider Income Tax (IT) raids at few leading to port congestions, Award (Large Industry Category garment export houses in Noida. improving customs automation, for 2014). On sustainability front, Though the export houses are lower interest financing from the apparel exporter also received claiming that it was a routine banks and duty-free access to verification for water and carbon ‘income tax survey’ and not Europe, Australia and Canada, all footprint by KPMG and life-cycle a ‘raid’, an eyewitness told of which are not possible without analysis for cotton modal, spun Apparel Online that it was a the support of the Government. dyed viscose, cotton Viloft & Atul Mittal full-fledged raid as there were recycled poly cotton. With a head count of Manufacturing innerwears, leggings, tops, policemen along with IT officers. 10,000, the company has plans to grow its tees, polo shirts, etc. under the leadership of “It was not a raid; in fact only business to US $ 250 million (Rs. 1,500 crore) S.K. Chaudhary, Chairman of the company, the a survey as IT teams came to by 2020. Team Apparel Online talked to apparel exporter noted a group turnover of US all our five factories, checked Atul Mittal, VP – Marketing, Pratibha $ 127 million for the fiscal 2014-15, out of which our records, computers and Syntex, who shared that the year has been US $ 68 million was from garment exports. matched the stock with the record. As physical stock was more than on records, they did levy some penalty on us. Team Apparel Online got to know that They asked questions to senior P. Ramababu, who is being promoted as staff also for some time but Top officers take exit from Vice Chairman and MD of Gokaldas Exports work did not stop at any of the Gokaldas Exports Limited; Limited, is bringing his own new team factories,” informed a senior more expected to follow particularly in IT, Projects, Finance and HR person of one of the export hings don’t seem to be fine at Bangalore- departments, this is supposedly the reason houses which was ‘surveyed’. Tbased Gokaldas Exports Limited behind senior officials opting out of the Unconfirmed sources also claim (GEL) as in the past few months many top company. P. Ramababu holds Directorship in that IT teams have recovered executives have left the company. It includes 13 other companies as well. heavy cash from one of the Gautam Chakravarti, CEO (left in May In another development, Dr. Y S P Thorat, companies. Owner of another this year); Ruby Jayan George, COO – Independent Director on the Board of factory under the scanner and Marketing; Sumit Keshan, CFO; and Daisy Directors has ceased to be Director of spokesperson for IT Department Mistri COO – Marketing. Finance Controller, the company, w.e.f. December 1, 2015. were not available for comments. Quality Head and few other senior marketing Sumit Keshan, who served the company Another export house’s MD persons of the company heading top clients for five years, is now Director, South Asia informed AO, “It was a routine like Decathlon have also left. Not only this, at CDC Advisers and Sathyamurthy A investigation, nothing more than in coming days some more senior staff has been appointed as new CFO of GEL that. And everything was perfect members may also leave the company as in his place. Daisy Mistri has started at our factories.” they are seriously planning for a change. As her own firm Daisy Mistri Consultancy of now, the company has no proper HR too. Services in Bangalore. Noida is under the scanner of the authorities as recently one of Founded by J. H. Hinduja, GEL is one of the top export houses of Noida largest manufacturers/exporters of apparels was raided by CBI while another in India with a turnover of around US $ 169 apparel export house’s owner (a million (Rs. 1,100 crore) and it has 13 wholly- lady) was named in black money owned subsidiaries that support the holding scam, having a Swiss account. company. The company employs near about One of the biggest apparel export 26,000 people and has more than 25 fully- houses in NCR was also raided a equipped modern manufacturing facilities few months back. with a capacity to produce and export about 2.5 million apparels a month.

38 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com INDUSTRYLIVE

TEA appeals for 56th IIGF: 300 a speedy FTA with General Secretary; K.M. among the smaller economies. exhibitors; EU, Canada and Subramanian, Vice President; Together they account for 1,000 buyers Australia and V. Elangovan, EC Member. 40 per cent of global trade, expected The members also explained the whereas India has still not advantages of manufacturing entered into respective FTA/ ndia’s biggest apparel synthetic garments. CEPA/CECA with EU/Canada/ sourcing fair – India embers of Tirupur I Australia. They further went on International Garment Exporters’ Association The association mentioned M to demand a level playing field Fair (IIGF) – will (TEA) met, State President that the changing business to enhance their competiveness witness almost 300 Bharatiya Janata Party, environment in the global in the global market. They apparel exporters from Tamil Nadu recently and arena has further worsened brought into notice the fact across India at its next submitted the memorandum with the devaluation of that the garment sector has edition. Focused on asking for expediting Free Chinese currency and the exported RMG worth US $ 16.82 Autumn/Winter 2016- Trade Agreements with EU, knitwear sector is making billion in 2014-15 and out of 17, the 56th edition Canada and Australia as all possible efforts to sustain which, US $ 7.23 billion value of the show is going this would help to double the in the global market. The future concern is that the US of garment was destined to the to take place from 20 exports from Tirupur and also has already concluded the European Union. India still to 22 January 2016 in provide employment to more negotiations with 12 countries has the potential to enhance New Delhi. workers. They also requested to of the Pacific Rim to create exports in the European Union construct ESI Hospital with all Apparel Export a Trans-Pacific Partnership once the level playing field is facilities in Tirupur, apart from Promotion Council (TPP) which includes the provided to the sector. In first clearing TUFS pending claims (AEPC) in collaboration US, Canada, Australia, six months of 2015-16, the total and revocation of TUFS block with four major New Zealand and Japan among apparel export was US $ 8.56 garment exporters out period. the large economies, and billion and the EU contribution associations is The team comprised Chile, Peru, Mexico, Vietnam, was US $ 3.02 billion, with a organizing the 56th B. Shanmugasundaram, Singapore, Brunei and Malaysia share of 35%. IIGF. Rajiv Bhatnagar, Director, Fair & Exhibitions, AEPC informed, “For the Rippling effects upcoming fair, we of increased increment may even be lower on piece rate. Workers are have booked almost minimum wages than last year. Factories and happy as they are getting more 300 stalls. As usual visible in production teams are under salary but some of them are 300 overseas buyers Haryana pressure of not to do overtime disappointed as companies and almost 700 Indian (OT) as it costs double and are planning to retrench the buying agents are has increased heavily over the workforce or are in the process expected to visit pparel and textile companies course of time. Also, working to do so, like very recently the show.” in Haryana are observing A on Sundays at any level is also Orient Craft, Gurgaon, one On the other hand, strong rippling effects of recent pushing the costs further. of the leading Indian apparel Indian apparel surge made in the minimum exporters, reduced its workforce In another development, exporters are geared wages as middle- and top-level by about 1,000 after the workers who are not on payroll up with their collections management is working hard to minimum wages increased in or working on piece rate are for the show and their ensure the output price of the September last year (effective asking for increased wages as preparations are on garment remains same because from November, 2015). buyers are not ready to pay salaried operators are being in full swing. Aastha more. On the other side, middle- paid more. However, factories/ The Haryana Government has Kapoor, Creative level staff members of many labour contractors are in now increased minimum wages Director, Affordable factories are feeling demotivated process to increase the price by 29 per cent and 48 per cent for Exports, Delhi shared, as they are not getting much of some critical operations/ unskilled and skilled workers, “We are working on increment. At many factories styles for the workers working respectively. This means that fabrics like Jacquard, wages of unskilled labourers Rayon Dobby and have been increased from plenty of prints as we Rs. 5,900 to Rs. 7,600 per month. have picked prints The wages of skilled labourers from forecasts made at have been revised from Rs. 6,536 Premiére Vision (PV) in to Rs. 9,699 per month. February and October. Gurgaon is home for many top Dark deep colours seem apparel export houses like to be more in use and Matrix Clothing, Richa Global, woollen embroidery is Pearl Global Industries, Radnik also something on which Exports and many more, with we are working.” around 300 good factories…

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 39 INDUSTRYLIVE

Winters, happy TT Limited time for apparel promoting manufacturers units also as they get to make there for chilled hours,” says sports but troublesome savings on their electricity bills Ramkumar working in Faridabad. as the ACs remain off. Also, Some factories do face more enowned as for workers in the winter season increases absenteeism in this season. vertically North India! R productivity by bit on shop floor “We do have all the facilities for integrated textile and compared to summer season. apparel company, workers to take care of them, ajesh (42), a tailor in an “Our factory has bus facility for TT Limited has been like we have closed factories, apparel factory of Hosiery workers so most of them don’t supporting sports like R proper ventilation, blower Complex at Noida, is not feeling have to face such problems. More table tennis, basketball facility, but still absenteeism comfortable at work from last few than that we have temperature and cricket, to push the increases during the 2-3 months days as freezing winter in Delhi- meters and we keep those at youth of the country to of winters,” told Dinesh NCR has started to affect the day- 24 degrees Celsius so that the be part of such sports Kumar Vasisth, Manager to-day life of workers. “A distance workers stay comfortable at activities. Moving HR & Compliance, Raj of 5 kilometres from my home to work,” told Shalabh Srivastava, ahead with same spirit, Overseas, Panipat. Dealing factory by my cycle becomes a big GM – Training, Matrix Clothing, the company joined Pro with the same issue, Vipin issue in this chilly season, and as Gurgaon, which employs around Wrestling League as a Gupta, AVP, Personal & dense fog will be there in coming 5,000 workers. Furthermore, co-sponsor of Mumbai Admin, Matrix Clothing avers, days, I am worried how I will be Shalabh opines that productivity wrestling team, which “In winters, I notice higher managing then,” he says. enhancement in winter season is has also won the 2015 absenteeism as well as higher there, but as far as 40 paise per edition of the league. There are lakhs of workers like attrition rate. However, we get Rajesh and the problem is almost garment saving is concerned, he much better work efficiency as Sanjay Jain, MD of the same for all of them. But some is not too much sure about that. compared to summers. Shortage the company said, are lucky, especially those who Small or unorganized industries of manpower is noticed during “This fitted well in our have the facility of transportation don’t have such facilities and this period as many people have strategy as wrestling from factory-owners. North Indian workers have to manage on not come back after festival/ is popular in the regions like Delhi-NCR, Ludhiana, their own in winters. None of harvesting season from their company’s main target Panipat, etc. are getting majorly the factory has special dress for home towns. Generally, in market and further the affected due to chilly winter as winters or such facility which can summers we serve lunch to dress of the wrestlers the lowest minimum temperature be a support to workers in this around 400 workers at our is essentially our main recorded in Delhi last week was season. “Whenever we work at canteen, but in winters the product line. We look 4.2 degrees Celsius. But it is a night in heavy cold conditions, number goes up to 500 as they forward to a long-term little happy time for some of the the factory offers us food and get up late and don’t get time to association with the owners of apparel manufacturing provides some space to stay prepare food.” Mumbai team which performed exceedingly well in the competition. It feels good to be associated with the Knit Vision best team of the league. generates order (US $ 53.85 million), indicating a Vision informed, “Our exhibitors Mumbai won all its 7 enquiries worth bright season ahead for the local are more than satisfied and on matches to come out Rs. 350 crore domestic market of woollen and the base of my discussions with as a clear winner in hosiery products. The fair, which the exhibitors and visitors, I can the finals.” largely featured knitting and surely say that stock of garments printing machines like digital with local companies is now Founded by Dr. Rikhab printing machine, screen printing clear and they are a little relaxed Chand Jain, TT ecently concluded machine, etc., witnessed near now. Looking at the late coming Limited is an ISO 9001 Knit Vision Ludhiana 2015 – R about 21,000 visitors. of the winter season, we were a Certified self-contained a garment and textile machinery bit worried about the business, textile producer and exhibition – generated business Satish Sharma, MD, Showman but now things are on track as garment manufacturer. enquiries worth Rs. 350 crore Associates, organizer of Knit we have noted good business in It also claims to be the last 10 days.” first knitwear Indian company to go public At the fair, companies like and also the first one to Grafica, Dhaval Colour Chem, manufacture garments Apsom Infotex Ltd., Bamrah from its own produced Printer and others presented cotton. In the last their latest innovations in the fiscal, the company printing section. Even though the noted a turnover of visitors were less this year, the Rs. 679.19 crore (US organizer claims that considering $ 104.46 million). the current market scenario, almost all the 100 exhibitors Eminent personalities of Ludhiana at the inauguration of Knit Vision were happy with the footfall.

40 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com INDUSTRYLIVE

Industry must achievements, got a lot out basis, but lack of sufficient now focus on of his tenure. “Our Minister resources remains a hurdle. MMF: SK Panda Santosh Kumar Gangwar and “Our apparel manufacturers/ I wanted to serve the weaker exporters should work to section of the society first, so reduce the cost by increasing handloom was our priority. productivity. The textile n the last day of his long But it does not mean that any industry should come forward Oand illustrious career as section of the industry was and focus more on the complete an IAS officer as well as his last neglected. We tried to connect value chain. Man-made fibre is a day in office as the Secretary of handloom with export and key; so the Indian industry now the Ministry of Textiles (MoT), made efforts so that buyers needs to move in this direction. can place orders directly for The current cotton scenario Sanjay Kumar Panda remains Sanjay Kumar Panda, out going Secretary, MOT concerned about the industry, these handloom artisans. and our dependency on China even while maintaining his Now, Indian exporters can is something we should avoid,” duty on man-made fibres and usual composure. utilize their service better and he said and added that with imported fabric are still big With a smile on his face easier with the CFCs (common the amended Technology Fund issues that require support from that clearly reflected his facility centres).” Upgradation Scheme (TUFS), the Government. the apparel industry will get a satisfaction over his tenure, a Sanjay has also served for a “As of now we can’t assure major push. calm and composed outgoing long time on various senior any solution on these issues, Textile Secretary held an positions of the Textile He also maintained that the but our ministry is aware and informal interaction with Department, Tripura, which Indian textile and apparel continuously working on it,” he the media and shared his explains his thrust to promote industry should think and added. On what he would do experience, opinion and the North-East as a textile and work from a long-term next after his retirement, he achievements. The Indian garmenting hub for the future. perspective rather than looking said, “Not yet decided, but will handloom sector, which He accepted that there are for small gains and short- definitely focus on writing, as I has been his passion and some issues which still need term targets. He accepted that have already written two books had topped the list of MoT’s to be addressed on priority a heavy 12 per cent excise and it is my passion.”

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 41 INDIACANVAS

AEPC ELECTIONS VIRENDER UPPAL AND TEAM WIN; RAJIV KAPOOR TRIUMPHS

here are near about 758 wants ‘change’ in the EC of AEPC. member exporters of AEPC Now we will put more efforts in Finally, the much- who have voting rights, and working for the interest of small- and awaited Annual out of these, 504 used their medium-level exporters,” informed votingT power, which marks a record JL Sehgal, President of Apparel General Meeting 66.49% voter turnout, giving a big House Exporters Association (AHEA) (AGM) of Apparel victory for the newly implemented EVS and the team supporting Rajiv Kapoor. Export Promotion mode of elections; of the total votes, 104 Rajiv thanked the industry for the votes went exclusively to Rajiv Kapoor. support and assured that his struggle Council (AEPC) However, there was no fight for positions for the industry will continue. HKL has taken place in Southern and Western regions; from Magu, Chairman (F&b), AEPC and Western region Ashok G. Rajani, R.B. MD, Jyoti Apparels said, “It is good and everybody Goenka, Rishi Rajani were declared that someone has come forward to is happy. The winners and from Southern region contest in the AEPC elections, but there candidates (of N. Chandran and Rajeev S. Goenka should be no negative communication were re-elected, while V. Elangovan was by anyone.” Hari Kapoor, MD, Allied Northern Region) elected in place of M A Ramasamy. Exports, Noida and Vijay Jindal, SPL for the Executive Committee (EC), AEPC – Virender Uppal, MD, Richa Global Exports and outgoing Chairman of AEPC got 400 votes; Harish Ahuja, MD, Shahi Exports received 402 votes; and Government officials and AEPC representatives at the AGM Pritam Goel, MD, Lyra Industries A little ‘word-war’ was also seen at Industries, Faridabad were also of the the AEPC AGM as every stakeholder of same opinion. noted 372 votes AEPC/industry wanted to ensure that “Isn’t this the beginning of change at in his name. the results via first-time implemented the AEPC…? Rajiv represented small Encouragingly, EVS are accurate. “We have worked exporters and is in fact a medium-level hard, be it for the welfare of apparel exporter; at least he took an initiative the first-time exporters, awareness about EVS or to come forward, to fight. It will have a contender Rajiv our elections, and the voting results positive impact in the long run,” opined show that the apparel industry is happy Kapoor, MD Mohan Agnani, Director of JETEX, with our efforts. AEPC has proved its Jaipur who is also a member exporter. of Affordable transparency through implementing Raja M. Shanmugham, MD, Warsaw Exports clocked EVS,” said Virender Uppal in International, Tirupur blamed AEPC conversation with Apparel Online. 150 votes which for not spreading proper information During the announcement of results, related to elections and hence claimed were beyond Rajiv received maximum applause that the exercise is a mockery of anybody’s for his efforts to stand-up for small democracy in AEPC selection. “Wrong exporters. “We are more than leadership of associations like AEPC, expectations. happy, as 150 votes show that the TEA are hampering growth of small apparel industry of India seriously exporters which are the backbone of

42 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com INDIACANVAS

the Indian apparel export industry,” says Raja. Mohan and Raja spoke to Apparel Online on phone. Will AEPC Elections be held again? GK Rajnish, Under Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, was present here are chances that the AEPC Rajiv Kapoor had earlier filed a petition elections may be re-conducted in the at the AEPC AGM as a ‘Scrutinizer’ T in Delhi High Court against this next few months as the matter related condition. He was of the opinion that while Rupa Dutta, Economic Advisor, to it is pending in the Delhi High Court. this condition is not as per the law, and Ministry of Commerce & Industry AEPC in its notice for AGM had asked the AEPC included it to ‘demotivate’ was present as an ‘Observer’. Almost exporters filing nomination to contest the apparel exporter fraternity 40 other apparel exporters were also from contesting in the present at this AGM. elections. JL Sehgal Excitement about voting by Electronic informed Apparel Online Voting System (EVS) could be noticed after the AGM that the among voters (member exporters of Gazette Notification of AEPC). The returning team led by June 2015 clearly states Virender Uppal, put in extra efforts for that there was no need the elections as many question marks to deposit Rs. 1 lakh, on their working had been raised but still AEPC charged throughout the year. A meeting was the same. “If the Delhi called in Jaipur by GEAR (Garment High Court agrees on our Exporters Association of Rajasthan) point, then elections will and it conveyed to its members the definitely happen again. need to support Uppal and his panel The case was placed in for the ‘sake’ of welfare of the industry. JL Sehgal, President of Apparel House Exporters Association, raising issues at AEPC AGM front of Single Bench, Local offices of AEPC in all major but it denied us stay in apparel export hubs were more active the elections by depositing Rs. 1 lakh, the matter. But whatever will be the than earlier years. and in case the candidate does not get final result, it’ll surely influence the In his concluding remarks, Lalit 25 per cent of the total votes casted elections,” he said adding, “We are Thukral, MD, Maharana of India, through e-Voting, this amount would be looking at January 28 (hearing day) Noida and President, Noida Apparel forfeited. Logic behind this condition as a big day because it is a ‘war’ of Export Cluster said, “Yes, this time is pursuant to Section 160 (1) of the principles, and not for any individual there was much more excitement but Companies Act 2013. or personal gain.” it doesn’t matter who wins or loses, we are all part of the export fraternity with a common goal – Growth of Indian Apparel Exports.” Ashok Rajani takes charge as the new “I am satisfied with Chairman of the AEPC my tenure,” says Uppal shok G Rajani is the organizations and was on the board Serving the AEPC for two terms new Chairman of AEPC for 2016- of Alok Industries Limited, one as Chairman, Virender Uppal told A 17. Associated with the Council since of the largest integrated textiles Apparel Online that he is satisfied 1978, Rajani had worked as Senior Vice companies of India. with his tenure. “I tried to do the Chairman of AEPC and as Chairman best possible during my tenure and Rajani is known as a reasonable, (Export got the interest subvention scheme responsible and experienced person Promotion) reintroduced. I was after it from in the apparel export fraternity of at the the beginning. Similarly, we got India. It will be interesting to see how council he deals with immediate challenges better drawback rates and a lot of during classifications have gone, which were that are in front of him – like bringing 2000-2001, transparency in AEPC, working for in fact a trouble for exporters. Even 2006-2007, in the AEPC, I streamlined the system the welfare of small- and medium-level and 2010- exporters, among others. Currently, as there were mixed staff for AEPC 2011 before and ATDC. If you see the balance he is the Trustee of The Clothing taking over Manufacturers Association of India sheet of AEPC, we had lot of excess as AEPC expenditures, like those on some export (CMAI), Governor on the Board of Ashok Rajani, Chairman, AEPC Chairman. Institute of Apparel Management (IAM) promotion activities which were not Also the bringing results, I stopped them with the and Apparel Training and Design Founder and Chairman of Midas Centre (ATDC). He has previously help of staff and industry, so I am very Touch Exports, a leading apparel satisfied,” he said. served as the President of CMAI manufacturer and exporter of India, and was also on board of Governors On the ‘letter war’ between the SG Rajani has been actively associated of the National Institute of Fashion (Secretary General) and the AEPC, he with the various garment and textiles Technology (NIFT). said, “I don’t want to comment on this, it is a part of life…”

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 43 EXPORTSTATISTICS

TRADE SNIPS US Import Analysis: Jan.-Oct. 2015 Apparel imports by the US registered growth of 5.99% in Garment exports from Vietnam to US grow 11.7% quantities and 3.91% in values in first 10 months of 2015 According to Vietnam Textile and Cotton-based apparel imports to the US witnessed only 1.07% growth in quantity terms but declined Apparel Association (VITAS), (-) 1.06% in value terms, whereas MMF-based apparels noticed 10.74% increase in quantities and 11.32% Vietnam’s export of apparel and rise in value terms during the same period. Meanwhile, Indian apparel export to the US increased 6.21% textile to various destinations in quantities and 7.52% in value. Three countries have shown double digit growth in exports to US – has been optimistic in the last Bangladesh (15.88% in quantities and 11.14% in value), Sri Lanka (17.41% in quantities and 15.74% in value) 11 months – from January 2015 to and Vietnam (14.02% in quantities and 13.86% in value). China, registered 5.69% growth in quantities and November 2015. With the highest 2.37% in value. Pakistan is the only country that noticed less than 1% (0.07%) in quantities and fall in value export to the US worth US $ 9.88 billion, Vietnam exported textile (-) 1.23% in its exports to the US in the period under review. and apparel goods worth US $ 3.09 billion to the EU, US $ 2.53 billion Warm weather hits declines in comparable sales and December period last year to Japan, and US $ 1.98 billion to end of year business can be attributed to shortfalls resulted in a 3.9% increase South Korea. for many retailers… in cold-weather goods such as over the same period last Apparel and textile exports to the coats, sweaters, boots, hats, year, which equates to a 7.6% Warm weather continues US from Vietnam grew year-on- gloves and scarves. We also two-year rise of comparable to haunt American apparel year by 11.7% and the much continued to feel the impact of store sales for the same time retailers, who have been awaited Trans Pacific Partnership lower spending by international period.“Despite unprecedented witnessing low sales (TPP) is expected to give further tourists as the value of the warm weather, our focus on of winter apparels this boost. “Currently, the tax value dollar remained strong,” said private brands, enhanced season. Consulting firm Alix Terry J. Lundgren, Macy’s Inc. omni-channel execution and paid by Vietnamese textile, Partners has reported that apparel, leather, and footwear Chairman and CEO. Gap Inc. compelling gift giving selection, late arrival of winters will too has noted that net sales resulted in strong holiday sales. exporters to the US is higher than not work in favour of apparel for the five-week period ended I am especially pleased with that of the other TPP member retailers as shoppers have January 2, 2016 dived 4% to US the accelerated comp sales countries,” said Luong Hoang Thai, already made most out of the $ 2.01 billion, compared with improvement from November Head of Ministry of Industry and holiday season in the US. The net sales of US $ 2.10 billion to December, including record Trade’s Multilateral Trade Policy firm has also predicted that for the corresponding period online sales for the company Department and Deputy Head of department stores and teen last year. JCPenney has on the during the holiday season,” Vietnam’s negotiator delegation at apparel retailers in particular contrary announced that its elaborated Marvin R. Ellison, TPP Deal. To ease this problem, will suffer in 2016, until and comparable store sales for the Chief Executive Officer Vietnam successfully negotiated unless the retailers find a way combined 10-week November of JCPenney. with the US to reduce the tariff on to cut back on deep discounting. exports from an average rate of Apparel retailers observed a 17% to zero, under the TPP. boost of only US $ 200 million in TOTAL US GLOBAL APPAREL IMPORTS — JAN.- CT. 2015 sales from winter season right Type of Apparel Jan.-Oct. '14 Jan.-Oct. '15 % Change Philippines apparel and before the New Year. It has also footwear market to touch Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value US $ 4.5 bn by 2019 been observed that apparel retailers are offering 40 to 50% Cotton 10287.88 35654.38 10397.81 35277.82 1.07 -1.06 In its report – ‘Philippines Apparel average discounts on heavy Wool 198.04 3491.85 189.55 3240.03 -4.29 -7.21 and Footwear Outlook to 2019 coats and winter accessories, MMF 11162.26 29796.90 12361.15 33171.35 10.74 11.32 – Increase in Influx of Foreign which will eventually put Silk & Veg 256.38 1099.74 267.84 1094.96 4.47 -0.43 Brands’, Ken Research, a research pressure on profit margins analyst, has mentioned that apparel for retailers. Total 21904.56 70042.87 23216.35 72784.16 5.99 3.91 and footwear market of Philippines Qty & value in mn M2 & US $ Macy’s has reported that the is expected to reach US $ 4.5 season wasn’t good for them billion-mark by 2019 at a CAGR of either. “The holiday selling TOTAL APPAREL EXPORTS TO THE US BY INDIA AND ITS COMPETITORS — JAN.-OCT. 2015 9.1%, with brands like Nike, Adidas, season was challenging, H&M, Forever 21 together with local as experienced throughout Countries Jan.-Oct. '14 Jan.-Oct. '15 % Change brands – Penshoppe and Bench 2015 by much of the retailing Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value enthusing demand in the market. industry. In the November/ India 829.61 2947.32 881.13 3169.04 6.21 7.52 The apparel and footwear market December period, we were in the country has noted surge in particularly disadvantaged Bangladesh 1388.66 4196.23 1609.21 4663.74 15.88 11.14 growth in the past five years with by the historically warm China 9230.61 25626.77 9756.00 26233.39 5.69 2.37 rise in personal disposable income. weather in northern climate Pakistan 502.53 1252.88 502.89 1237.52 0.07 -1.23 Earnings from apparel and footwear zones where both Macy’s and Sri Lanka 340.44 1473.58 399.71 1705.58 17.41 15.74 market in Philippines have grown Bloomingdale’s are especially Vietnam 2334.69 7932.71 2661.91 9032.17 14.02 13.86 at a CAGR of 7.3% in the period well-represented. About 80% of Qty & value in mn M2 & US $ of 2009-2014. our company’s year-over-year

44 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com 45 Apparel Online India EXPORTSTATISTICS

Canada apparel imports: Ladies dresses: India, Bangladesh Jan.-Oct. 2015 Nightwear: Only India loses, and Vietnam notice growth Knitted apparel imports but big gain for Bangladesh down by (-) 2.47% in  In first 10 months of 2015, the US  Nightwear still seems to show negative witnessed 2.30% growth in value and product category for India and in first value, while woven too 3.59% in quantity in the import of ladies falls by (-) 2.23% 10 months of 2015 this category dresses. During this period, India saw registered negative growth of (-) 15.15% increase of 7.68% in terms of value and in its quantity and (-) 9.54% in its 6.79% in terms of quantity. Bangladesh value. On the other hand, Bangladesh Canada has been very slow noticed 13.31% and Vietnam showed on its imports of apparel registered huge growth in quantity term 8.75% growth in terms of value in the throughout the year and the of 36.20% and in value term the growth same product category while in quantity it data at the flag end of the was 17.24%. In this category, Vietnam year only reflects the same was 9.60% and 3.87%, respectively. gained 2.15% in quantity but lost (-) in the 10 months period 0.71% in value term. Overall US import under review… Growth in undergarments and of nightwear increased both in quantity foundation garments categories as well as value terms of 4.78% and  In the first 10 months of 2015, 4.55%, respectively. total apparel import by Canada  In the import of undergarments, the US fell in value terms by (-) 2.35%. registered growth of 4.99% in quantity and 7.98% in value. Similarly, imports Ladies skirts: India and Among major exporters to the China lose, Bangladesh gains Canadian market, Pakistan lost of foundation garments surged 9.62% by (-) 9.16% while export from in quantity and 12.20% in value. All four  In the first 10 months of 2015, China too fell by (-) 5.55%. Both countries – India, Bangladesh, China and import of ladies skirts by the US the countries lost in knitted as Vietnam gained in export to the US of witnessed fall of (-) 1.63% in quantity, well as woven segment. In knitted both product categories, i.e. in values as but increased 0.50% in value. India and segment, Pakistan loss was of well as quantities. Bangladesh led with China faced negative growth both in (-) 10.31% and in woven it fell by the highest export compared to all three value as well as in quantity terms, while (-) 7.72%. China too lost more in countries. In undergarments section India registered (-) 11.95% in regards to knitted with (-) 6.18% decrease Bangladesh’s export surged 22.53% in quantity and (-) 11.39% in value terms, and in woven by (-) 4.90%. value and 27.28% in quantity terms. China lost (-) 6.30% in volume of orders In foundation garments, Bangladesh’s and (-) 6.78% in value for the same.  India witnessed little growth of registered 42.60% growth in quantity and Bangladesh was the only country which 1.12% in export to Canada in 60.65% in value terms. India’s export noticed growth in quantity of 7.79% first 10 months of 2015. In knitted of undergarments to the US noticed as well as of value by 5.75%. Vietnam segment this growth was by increase in quantity of 21.07% and gained in value by 5.17% but lost in 1.20% and woven it remained at 30.23% in value. quantity by (-) 8.17%. 1.07% (in value terms).  Though Sri Lanka is on 10th rank in apparel export to Canadian market, but it gained by 26.50% ITEM-WISE PERCENTAGE INCREASE IN TOTAL APPAREL IMPORTS BY US FROM INDIA AND BANGLADESH: JAN.-OCT. 2015 AS AGAINST JAN.-OCT. 2014 (value terms) in knitted segment, highest compared to any other Exports to USA major exporting country. In woven Total Imports by USA India Bangladesh segment growth was only 0.19% APPAREL TYPE and total growth was 14.40% (in Qty % Value % Qty Value Qty % Value % Qty Value Qty % Value % Change Change Actual Actual Change Change Actual Actual Change Change value terms). Babies Wear 4.67 2.45 5,774,349 134.22 11.14 -21.51 10,985,462 192.65 18.14 16.54  Vietnam is the only major Foundation Garments 9.62 12.20 1,266,329 89.76 12.16 18.83 2,778,762 63.63 42.60 60.65 apparel exporter country that saw double digit growth in woven Jackets & Blazers 4.99 6.41 594,647 125.58 11.12 39.50 2,283,602 342.37 21.34 23.72 as well knitted segment. In Ladies Blouses 8.77 5.56 7,053,652 533.53 11.30 12.60 1,937,630 108.86 16.47 12.45 woven category it saw 11.92% Ladies Dresses 3.59 2.30 3,541,719 320.71 6.79 7.68 1,059,321 43.98 9.60 13.31 growth while in knitted segment Ladies Skirts -1.63 0.50 773,733 62.13 -11.95 -11.39 829,424 33.68 7.79 5.75 it was 12.77% (in values). Total Legwear 6.64 10.35 2,791,516 14.80 15.40 27.01 0 - – – increase in Vietnam’s export to Canada was 12.35% in the first Men's Shirts 0.26 -1.66 2,440,651 213.34 18.51 9.23 10,556,211 636.07 1.76 0.87 10 months of 2015. Nightwear 4.78 4.55 2,611,517 86.66 -15.15 -9.54 1,786,040 55.10 36.20 17.24  Bangladesh, 2nd largest Suits / Ensembles 1.95 -7.18 447,692 65.98 -7.85 -2.28 331,377 22.58 -2.12 -13.52 exporter to Canada in woven Sweaters -5.05 -5.46 87,264 6.51 14.63 -22.31 1,142,134 63.68 16.78 17.20 as well as knitted garments, Trousers 6.76 3.87 4,305,153 312.64 1.59 3.55 35,661,077 2,059.65 12.80 8.21 registered 1.79% growth in T-Shirts 4.04 2.04 19,236,346 788.135 11.63 -74.82 18,941,539 532.19 24.50 19.41 exports. Though its woven export increased by 5.47%, knitted Undergarments 4.99 7.98 15,283,395 268.73 21.07 30.23 24,548,062 270.40 27.28 22.53 export declined (-) 2.60%. Value in mn US $ and Qty in dozens, Legwear in dozen pairs, Babies Wear in Kg

46 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com Apparel Online India 47 RESOURCECENTRE

ith 74 well-established best in the business. Moreover, W principals from around people these days are conscious the world in its kitty, the A.T.E. of why they need to invest in Group has literally changed the high-end technologies, so there “Indian way one looks at the textile sector, is increasing demand for new upgrading not only the machines technologies. Keeping pace with being used, but also putting the current scenario will definitely textile forward services to support the help the business.” sustainable initiatives of the The lower volumes in weaving industry, offering a wide range in India, apprehension about of ground-breaking solutions for investment in processing and the industry treatment, reuse and management volatility of the textile business of water, waste water and sludge, have been the major bottlenecks pumps, comfort cooling and for technology providers. While sensible cooling of air and energy spinning capacities in the country embracing solutions. The company enjoys are quite modern, the real need wide presence across the globe is to modernize weaving and with local teams in different processing so that the country can changes for countries servicing customized benefit in terms of value addition. needs of each. “In the weaving domain, Air jet In India, though processing has weaving is popular as it connects growth” long been considered the weak you to higher speed, as it is more G V ARAS, DIRECTOR, A.T.E. ENTERPRISES link of the textile sector, the same productive than Rapier and boasts of better quality also. The only problem is that the technology is quite expensive and available Innovation and sustainability mainly from Europe and Japan. It have become two of the is high time we manufacture these machines in India to compete most significant growth in the market and save on huge engines of the fast evolving foreign exchange being spent on imports,”says Aras. textile industry. Be it cutting With companies looking for an edge-technology or economic and single-window customized solutions across solution, warp knitting has become the latest fad in the the textile value chain, an industry, as the technology has the environmentally sustainable versatility to knit different kinds of material suitable for various approach has been the top applications like garments, agenda for most of the players lingerie, home textiles and seat in the vertical. A.T.E. Enterprises covers. Large investments are being noticed in warp knitting Pvt. Ltd. leads the sustainable today. “Warp knitted products philosophy, supplying textile are popular with end customers, G V Aras, Director, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. and the technology is growing machineries across the value rapidly in India. Some years chain that not only adhered to is not true today with heavy back, there were very less investments being made in the buyers of the technology in global standards but are also segment. “Not only is investment India when we used to sell only manufactured in sustainable being made, but it is being made 10-20 machines in a year, but at factories. G V Aras, Director, intelligently,” says Aras. The present the demand has gone latest machines being used are up to 200 to 300 machines. The A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. energy efficient and require kind of development that is talks to Apparel Online on less water and less chemicals, happening in warp knitting is the complete focus is on eco- very interesting. Even in apparel the sidelines of the recently friendly processing. “At present, sector investments are planned concluded ITMA, about the processing business is doing on warp knitting as it offers very well in India. Now the next special fabric properties and changing trends in the sector phase of business development design possibilities,” shares and A.T.E.’s efforts to support will also be covering weaving,” Aras. Warp knitting enjoys strong predicts Aras. He adds, “At presence in the sportswear, the trends... A.T.E. we do not compromise on automobile and lingerie vertical. quality and work only with the In the lingerie sector, a drift is

48 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com RESOURCECENTRE

seen from the circular to warp Aras opines, “With pollution knitting, which has tremendous control board taking a stricter design possibilities. stance these days, people Texworld, Apparel Sourcing, Throwing light on various will have to contemplate on a Avanprint and Avantex to share sustainable and environmentally eco-friendly developments in same roof at Paris viable solution, without worrying the industry, Aras shared that about the cost.” A.T.E. has with ecological conservation esse Frankfurt, France woollen, denim, casual cotton, devised an excellent solution being the talk of the time the Mis organising four major casual knits, silk, jacquard, for the waste water treatment industry is also gearing up events on fashion, technology fake fur, etc. will be put on – recycling, including zero for solutions that will reduce and textiles – Texworld, display at the fair. liquid discharge and also offers the misuse of water and other Apparel Sourcing, Avanprint Apparel Sourcing Paris, on the upgradation of the existing and Avantex-2016 – at Le resources. As far as fabric other hand, has registered an plants, its proven AAA (air- Bourget in Paris between dyeing is concerned, industry increase of around 30 per cent floatation, anaerobic and aerobic) February 15 and 18, 2016. is resorting to technologies in the participation of clothing process gives effective solution in Texworld Paris continues to with low MLR (material:liquor and textile accessories an economical budget, he adds. grow with its distinct offerings ratio). “Air dyeing and wave manufacturers. More than On a pensive note Aras shares and has seen participation dyeing are popular these days, 230 exhibitors are expected that the Trans Pacific Pact (TPP) by 150 exhibitors in the past as they colour fabrics with to make their presence felt agreement could result in a 10 years. Being at the heart much lesser quantity of water. at the fair. major shift in the dynamics of of the event this year, China A new technology has also the market. “While the textile will exhibit a plethora of Avanprint Paris, which will be been introduced by a company industry of countries like Turkey offerings like knits, sundries, organised simultaneously with called Dyecoo which uses CO to 2 will continue to grow at a fair accessories and casual Texworld Paris and Apparel colour fabrics which will soon be rate, particularly in the denim wear. A group of Turkish Sourcing, is going to be a commercialised,” informs Aras. segment, the trade interest of companies, specializing in debut event that will showcase Even though ZLD norms have India, China and Bangladesh accessories, and countries digital printing solutions. It become mandatory in India, could be hampered. Vietnam will like Pakistan, and Taiwan are will feature manufacturers the high cost of the technology be the main beneficiary of TPP also participating in the event. and distributors from the is preventing the textile sector which will grow impressively,” Materials like linen & Hemp, digital textile printing domain. from installing the technology. he concludes.

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 49 RESOURCECENTRE

‘Denim In Fashion’ is dedicated to show new colours of Denim as well as of Bangladesh

October 2015 saw the successful show Denim Playground Dhaka bring together the global denim players The March 2016 show will take off with expectations of bigger visitation

he pioneer denim says Sandeep Agarwal, In recent times trend GLOBAL ONLINE DENIM Tshow organized by organiser of the show. denim has gone posh SHOW to be launched by the site. The online tool aims to Denimsandjeans.com will The 4th edition of – Alexa Chung for bring suppliers and buyers of hit the floor of Bangladesh Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh AG jeans to Marques denim together at one place. on 2nd & 3rd March 2016 show concluded successfully Almeida and even The last day of the 4th edition with its 5th edition under the showing much greater response Prada, designers was sizzled by FASHIONIM theme ‘Denim In Fashion’. The compared to the last 3 shows. are using style and event which was attended and denim exhibition organized by With the theme being Denim history to create appreciated by over 400 invitees Denimsandjeans.com is one of Playground, the focus was on nostalgia and style and was sponsored by Envoy the most awaited exhibitions denim as a sportswear and reinvention. Denim Group (Bangladesh), Vicunha and has been attracting global increasingly targeting to become has been growing (Brazil) and Bhaskar (India). attention since its 1st edition in an activewear product. The continuously in the The 5th edition has already March 2014. Visitors worldwide Athleisure Trend was strongly last decade but what created a buzz internationally. appreciated the show with even declared to be ‘in’! new has happened “Our motive is to showcase the the Godfather of denim Adriano More than 1,700 visitors from potential of Bangladeshi Apparel Goldschmied (founder of Diesel) is that high fashion the top international apparel and Textile Industry to the world visiting and commenting – “The has also joined retailers like G-Star, C&A, Celio, by organizing such events,” show was much better than the bandwagon of Carrefour, Uniqlo, Camieu, denim affiliation. concludes Sandeep. expected, from designs to other GAP, Gloria Jeans, H&M, Jade, things, everything was efficient Kiabi, Levi’s, Li and Fung, and even looked better than 1st M&S, Otto, besides from local GARMENT FACTORY SALE / RENT PV show.” All these developments factories, buying houses, etc. lend credence to the idea of made their presence felt. The denim quickly capturing space as two-day programme comprised a FASHION CLOTHING. And this of a series of seminars on prompts Denimsandjeans.com to sustainability as well as the new choose DENIM IN-FASHION as technological paradigm shifts the theme for their next show. in the manufacturing, washing In recent times trend denim and dyeing. The exhibition has gone posh – Alexa Chung was also special as this was for AG jeans to Marques the first show which allowed Almeida and even Prada, the local Bangladeshi Young designers are using style and Fashion Talent to showcase history to create nostalgia and their creativity and design on style reinvention. “Denim has an international platform. The been growing continuously in students of three universities the last decade but what new BUFT, SMUCT and NIFT has happened is that high participated in the contest. fashion has also joined the Sandeep also gave glimpses bandwagon of denim affiliation,” of the DE-BRANDS: FIRST

50 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com RESOURCECENTRE

HOOK / BAR HANGERS / PACKAGING ACCESSORIES

EMBROIDERY FABRIC / LACES BUTTONS / BUCKLES

ELASTICS / TAPES ELASTICS / TAPES / BUTTON

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 51 52 Apparel Online India Navigator implements ERP; Iconic boutique chain Kitson going looking towards new markets out of business itson, the boutique chain, ompleting a decade of its Fashion Design Graduate which started the high- establishment, Bangalore- from NIFT who earlier worked K C end shopping experience based buying house Navigator with companies like Tesco at Los Angeles’ Robertson is moving in multi-directions India Sourcing and Ambattur Boulevard and pop-culture and expecting 25 per cent Clothing Company. She added retailing, is eventually going growth this year. Founded that currently the market is very out of business, according to by Directors Suresh Bhadri challenging and if things remain (Ex Country Manager, according to their plans, the a statement released by the Tesco-India Operations) and company will be able to achieve retailer’s public-relations Dhanya Sugathan, the buying 25 per cent growth. representative. The retailer house is currently working is in the process of closing Working with 12 regular its 17 store locations and its with big chains of South Africa vendors of Bangalore, Chennai, and Australia. Recently, it e-Commerce store. Gordon Panipat and Delhi, the Brothers Group and Hilco developed and implemented company is also sourcing from Merchant Resources, the an in-house ERP which will Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. liquidation specialists have help the organization with Navigator is offering knitted, our production capacities; so our been hired to direct closing order management from woven as well as home aim is to have a set of buyers down sales at all Kitson enquiry to shipment and furnishing products as it wants from both the Northern and retail locations. On Kitson’s also support operations with to serve as a one-stop solution Southern hemispheres. Some e-Commerce site, all items critical path management and markets are fashion leaders for its buyers. With a team of 25 have been put on sale by performance evaluations. and it is very good to have people, the company believes the retailer on discounts Further, the buying office is clients there. It will take some in Ethical Trading and follows starting from 30 per cent also planning to explore newer time but we will explore such the principles of Total Quality to 50 per cent. markets. “We want to balance markets,” informed Dhanya, Management (TQM).

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 16-31, 2016 | Apparel Online India 53 54 Apparel Online India 55 Apparel Online India