‘Orphanage ’ in Cambodia When Residential Care Centres Become Tourist Attractions

Tess Guiney

Abstract: Cambodia’s recent history of instability has garnered it international notoriety as a place of genocide, cor- ruption and insecurity. Currently, this perception of Cambodia has resulted in an influx of tourists seeking to volunteer at and visit orphanages throughout the country hoping to combat the perceived poverty and suffering. With only 21 state-run orphanages in Cambodia the remaining 248 (although it is potentially even more) rely significantly on over- seas donations with many advertising and heavily encouraging ‘orphanage tourism’. Although touted as an altruis- tic, beneficial experience, awareness of the darker side of ‘orphanage tourism’ has recently grown and the negative impacts that such practices can have on a vulnerable section of society have become evident. Orphan numbers in Cambodia are at their lowest point in decades, whilst orphanage numbers have undergone a 76 per cent increase in the last five years, coinciding with a 76 per cent increase in tourist numbers. This research investigates the forms that ‘orphanage tourism’ takes in Cambodia and the impacts of this popular phenomenon on those who are purported to benefit: orphanages and orphans.

Key Words: Orphanage tourism; ‘voluntourism’; Cambodia; orphans

[Submitted as Scientific Paper: 12 March 2012, Acceptance of the revised reviewed manuscript: 2 May 2012]

‘Orphanage tourism’ (visiting, volunteering and performances at orphanages for tourists) has become a burgeoning tourism form in countries throughout the world, however, it is yet to un- dergo rigorous examination in existing literature. This research focuses on the interaction bet- ween tourists and orphanages in Cambodia which, with its history of instability, has become an important site for voluntourism and poverty tourism, of which orphanage tourism is a dominant form. This article seeks to illustrate the pervasiveness of orphanage tourism in Cambodia and the significant impact it is having on those centres participating. Firstly, the methodology of this research will be explained before moving on to examine the existing literature and the gaps that this research seeks to fill. A brief outline of tourism in Cambodia is then given before moving on to examine the form that orphanage tourism in Cambodia takes. Finally, the impacts (both positive and negative) of orphanage tourism will be examined to illustrate the significance of such a phenomenon in a nation such as Cambodia. School class close to Siem Reap © Reinhold Waibel 2010. Waibel © Reinhold School class close to Siem Reap

Pacific News #38 • July/August 2012 9 Methodology Nevertheless, one was from Takeo and on orphanage tourism. This gap fails The research methodology for this another from the surrounding Takeo to reflect that community welfare pro- project was qualitative in nature. The area which are more removed from grammes, including orphanage volun- constructivist component of qualita- the main tourist trail. However, it is teering, is the most popular form of tive methodology is particularly rele- intended that this will be extended in volunteer tourism (Callanan & Tho- vant to my research topic, as a signi- 2012 during a second research trip to mas, 2005). ficant portion of my data collection include a wider range of orphanages, Other literature does examine or- will focus on personal opinion and including more in rural areas. phanage tourism in some form. Lacey perception about volunteer tourism et al (2012) examine the potential for and Cambodia as a destination. These Existing literature understanding the ‘other’ that can be are not objective accounts, but rather Tourism since the 1980s has diversi- gained while volunteering at an orpha- the impressions and interpretations of fied greatly and there has been an in- nage. Tomazos and Butler (2008) also specific people (see Sarantakos, 2005). creased interest in use an orphanage volunteering project The orphanages interviewed differ options (Callanan & Thomas, 2005). as their case study, though it is not to greatly from each other making quan- Niche tourism approaches are often specifically examine orphanage volun- titative data collection impossible as seen as more sustainable, less envi- teering but rather the motivation to not all parameters are the same. Semi- ronmentally or socially damaging and volunteer. Barbieri et al (2011) simi- structured interviews as well as focus more responsive to tourist and host larly use a case study of volunteering at groups were conducted due to their needs (Robinson & Novelli, 2005; an orphanage to illustrate the need for usefulness in determining opinions Wearing, 2004). Callanan and Thomas greater managerial actions and trans- and information about various orpha- (2005, 183) depict the late 1990s and parency; however, it is limited in its nages and about volunteer experiences. early 2000s as experiencing the ‘volun- actual examination of the orphanage They also allowed flexibility as not all teer tourism rush’ and this has led to and the orphans themselves. Also, alt- questions were applicable in all situa- tourist activity in previously unknown hough volunteering is an integral part tions. Complete anonymity of both re- areas, as has poverty tourism which of orphanage tourism, my study seeks presentatives and orphanages will be has taken tourism’s reach into previ- to go further than this to also examine maintained throughout this article as ously avoided areas. ‘Orphanage tou- orphanage visits and cultural perfor- it is not my objective to give a road- rism’, encompassing both volunteer mances which have transformed many map of unscrupulous organisations in tourism and poverty tourism, is by no orphanages from homes into tourist Cambodia; also I was concerned that means unique to Cambodia; it is oc- attractions and are reflective of po- without complete anonymity many is- curring throughout nations in Africa, verty tourism in many countries. In ad- sues would not be freely discussed. Latin America and Asia (Birrell, 2011; dition, no data currently exists about Interviews and focus groups with 42 Richter & Norman, 2010; Kelto, 2010). orphanage tourism in Cambodia spe- key informants were conducted from However, it is an under-researched cifically. March until May 2011. These key in- area within the existing literature. Alt- formants included representative from hough a vast amount of literature fo- My research seeks to examine four fifteen different orphanages (22- or cuses on volunteer tourism (see Wea- key questions: phanage representatives, sixteen vo- ring, 2001; Guttentag, 2009; Tomazos lunteers), a spokesperson for Friends & Butler 2009, 2010; Callanan & Tho- 1. What are the primary forms of International (who work with margi- mas, 2005; Lyons & Wearing, 2008 to tourism interaction with orphanages? nalised urban children and youth), and name but a few) there has been a fai- 2. How are tourist interactions with three representatives for a responsible lure to examine orphanage tourism to orphanages regulated and are there tourism organisation in Siem Reap. a significant extent. standards in place? Several internet searches identified The most substantial study on or- 3. How is Cambodia, as a tourist de- the majority of orphanage key infor- phanage tourism comes from Richter stination, perceived and framed and mants, although several were identified and Norman (2010) in their examina- what contribution do orphanages through snowball sampling, as was the tion of ‘AIDS orphan tourism’ in sub- make to this? responsible tourism organisation in Saharan Africa. They note that the 4. What are the benefits and prob- Siem Reap. Volunteers were identified global perception of an AIDS orphan lems associated with tourist interac- when visiting different orphanages and crisis has created a recent explosion of tions with orphanages? interviewing volunteers present during tourist attention and predominantly those visits. Due to the web-based western desire to and help care I feel that these research questions method used to identify orphanages for these children. The main concerns produce a well-rounded basis for an there could be a particular bias as it raised by Richter and Norman (2010) examination of orphanage tourism in does not include those which do not relate to the impact that institutional Cambodia. It considers both the rati- have a website, and therefore poten- care and western visitors has on the onale of people participating in such tially favours those which have larger social and psychological development tourism as well as the form it takes and tourism programmes, however, due of the children. This is a rigorous ex- the benefits and consequences it causes. to the difficulties in locating orpha- amination of orphanage tourism and nages this was unavoidable. The bulk adds significantly to literature on vo- ‘Orphanage Tourism’ in of the orphanages visited were in the lunteer tourism, however, it appears to Cambodia main tourist areas of Siem Reap, Ph- be the only existing academic exami- The tourism industry is Cambodia’s nom Penh, and one from Battambang. nation specifically focusing specifically second largest economic contributor,

10 Pacific News #38 • July/August 2012 amounting to 16 per cent of GDP in 2006; with over two million arrivals per year since 2007 this is on the in- crease (Chheang, 2008). “The Grea- ter Mekong Subregion has been iden- tified as the fastest growing tourism destination in the world [...] after re- ceiving over 1 million arrivals in 2004 Cambodia’s market is expected to continue to grow by 20-30 per cent growth for the coming years”. Cam- bodia is perceived as an exciting and exotic destination, and as an alterna- tive to traditional destinations such as Europe (Hitchcock et al., 2009). With the stagnation of Cambodia’s traditi- onal industries, such as textiles, tou-

risms’ influence continues to increase Source: Tess Guiney (Hitchcock et al., 2009). Daily cultural performance at a Siem Reap orphanage Cambodian orphanages are regula- ted under the Ministry of Social Af- ceive. There is no government support teers to increase staff capacity rather fairs, Veteran and Youth Rehabilita- for orphanages in Cambodia; there- than to educate the children or for spe- tion (MOSVY). Currently, orphanages fore, orphanages are heavily reliant on cific needs such as one which sought a must be registered with MOSVY and oversees donations/charities for fun- volunteer for survival swim coaching therefore follow minimum standards, ding, leading the way for orphanage and another for piano lessons. For visi- created in 2008, to continue opera- tourism. Currently, there is no ove- tors, some have visiting hours that are tion. The minimum standards required rarching government policy relating more about education than interaction of orphanages relate to the provision to orphanage tourism in Cambodia. with children and some do not allow of medical and dental care along with Therefore, different orphanages have photography. Others I spoke to said three meals a day, clean drinking wa- their own policies regulating tourists. they continued orphanage tourism out ter, regular clothing and other necessi- However, this is set to change with a of necessity and would prefer to stop ties such as sleeping materials and hy- draft law being created to regulate or- if they had alternative funding. giene materials such as tooth brushes phanage tourism. Some orphanages host cultural per- and first aid kits. There are also requi- Visitors were accepted at all but one formances, some every night, or for rements that children are given the op- of the fifteen orphanages interviewed visitors giving donations. Increasingly, portunity to participate in community, and volunteers were encouraged at all big also ask orphanages to per- recreation, leisure and sporting oppor- but two. The number of visitors and form for their guests as they recognise tunities, to practice religion etcetera. volunteers varies significantly between its appeal to tourists. Some orphana- Children are to be allowed contact and the fifteen orphanages interviewed, ges receive several hundred visitors per visits from their families and be able to some receiving hundreds of visitors month, the busiest appear to be those access counselling if they have come a month and some receiving very few which host performances, others had from traumatic backgrounds. Child- or none. Many orphanages actively en- received only five in 2010, and another ren must also be provided with at least courage visitors and volunteers by ad- enforced a policy of absolutely no vi- nine years of schooling. There are also vertising in local hotels, guesthouses sitors at their orphanage. The majority requirements for the buildings of or- or shops, or through distributing pam- of centres take a relaxed approach to phanages as well as criteria for the ma- phlets, some even sending orphans to visitors, allowing ‘walk-ins’ at any time nagement and the caregivers of such busy tourist areas, especially in Siem of day. However, a few take a more centres (MOSVY, 2008). However, Reap, to encourage donations and vi- structured approach, with visiting from key informant interviews in 2011 sits. Others are even mentioned in Lo- hours or organised visits. Similarly, vo- it appeared that some orphanages were nely Planet Cambodia, on www.tripad- lunteer numbers vary greatly. Two of not visited regularly or that standards visor.co.uk or similar travel guides. All the orphanages visited have a strict no were checked thoroughly. One orpha- the orphanages visited have a website, volunteers policy, three others only al- nage director even commented that or- although this could be a reflection of low longer-term volunteers, those wil- phanages that were not registered with my research methodology and its limi- ling to stay a minimum of either three MOSVY did not have to follow their tations, several also have a Facebook or six months. However, the remaining standards and were not under their ju- or other social media pages. ten orphanages visited allowed volun- risdiction, meaning that they could not Volunteers are generally short term, teers for any length of time, often with be closed down by MOSVY. a few days to a few weeks, although no arrangements made prior to arrival. Although officially registration re- some do stay long term. Volunteers’ The orphanage of key informant 7, quires minimum standards of care the roles differ between orphanages, pri- possibly the most popular orphanage situation in different orphanages dif- marily teaching English or other skills, in Cambodia for volunteers, received fers significantly due to the amount of they take activities or play with the 600 volunteers in the two years prior funding that different orphanages re- children. Other orphanages use volun- to my interview. However, others sta-

Pacific News #38 • July/August 2012 11

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207 pages • price € 23,90 (D) 112 pages • price € 18,90 (D) www.regiospectra.de ted that they had received three the visitors went on to sponsor large buil- acquire free, native English speakers is previous year and none so far that year ding projects, to provide equipment or seen as invaluable: Key Informant 3, (interviewed in May 2011). to sponsor children. Therefore, it is an orphanage spokesperson, stated clear that ‘orphanage tourism’ is a si- ‘Orphanage Tourism’ impacts gnificant form of revenue in a nation “I think you can’t beat having native Orphanage volunteering is often de- often defined by its poverty. With si- speakers to practice with.” scribed both by sending organisations gnificant leakage of money overseas and orphanages as a meaningful, wor- being a common occurrence of tou- and this was repeated by multiple thwhile experience which helps those rism in the ‘developing world’ (see key informants. Several key infor- who are disadvantaged in ‘developing’ Scheyvens, 2011) it could be argued mants also said that volunteers were nations. However, recent newspaper that ‘orphanage tourism’ is a more able to role model different career op- articles, documentaries and campaigns responsive and responsible form of tions for the children and provided now indicate that the negative impacts tourism because the money is going knowledge of the world and other cul- of ‘orphanage tourism’ can be devas- to local organisations rather than to tures that Cambodian orphans would tating. This section will outline the international actors. Indeed the majo- otherwise be unable to witness. Simi- main positives and negatives of orpha- rity of orphanages interviewed stated larly, some stated that ‘orphanage tou- nage tourism in Cambodia. that they avoided large international rism’ helps to raise awareness and un- The most frequently stated benefit gap year or volunteer sending organi- derstanding of the Cambodian culture, of ‘orphanage tourism’ was the finan- sations because the money did not go with many volunteers interviewed sta- cial benefit from volunteers and - visi to the orphanage projects, but rather ting that they felt they were able to ex- tors; many orphanages stated that wi- to the sending organisation. perience the ‘real Cambodia’ and gain thout ‘orphanage tourism’ they would There was also recognition that the more insight than conventional tou- be unable to continue their work. Key educational opportunities provided rists. Simpson (2004, 688), conversely, Informant 1, an orphanage director, by the volunteers were vital, not only is pessimistic of the knowledge gained stated simply that for the children but also for increasing by volunteering, concluding that staff capacity. In a country such as “If no tourists, no donation to this Cambodia where the education system “The limited critical engagement orphanage there will be no staff and is described as inadequate, corrupt or within gap year projects means that no children, no food, no everything costly for poor families, education is students are able to confirm, rather here.” seen as a vital tool to overcome po- than challenge, that which they already verty but one that many struggle to know.” Visitors and volunteers donate both achieve (Brinkley, 2011). The opportu- at the time of their visit and in the fu- nity for children to learn English was This appears to perhaps ring true ture, some even raising money from the primary educational benefit noted, in Cambodia, with many stereotypi- friends, family and fundraisers in their with English seen as the route for em- cal descriptions repeated by key infor- own countries. Many volunteers and ployment opportunities. The ability to mants, such as the oft-repeated ‘poor

12 Pacific News #38 • July/August 2012 but happy’ cliché often associated with have become increasingly concerned different to them being out there at Cambodia. It is clear that many support about is some orphanage actors as 10 o’clock at night asking for a dollar and encourage ‘orphanage tourism’ and “"unscrupulous people"...engaging in from a tourist? And how is it any sa- that it could be providing an important a charity business and using children fer?” service for the children in Cambodia. to make money” (Carmichael, 2011a). Nevertheless, increasingly aware- Key informants reported cases of Another serious potential problem ness has risen about the negative im- children kept in states of poverty to identified is that ‘orphanage tourism’ pacts that ‘orphanage tourism’ can engender continued donations from can actually separate children from have on the vulnerable children in tourists whilst directors were receiving their parents with allegations that these centres. The most often repea- significant donations for the children some orphanages seek out poor fami- ted concern from key informants was (Key Informant 19). lies, in some cases even offering mo- the child protection issues that having From key informant interviews cul- ney, if they send their children to or- tourists in orphanages raised, speci- tural performances were identified phanages. Coates (2005, 8) writes fically paedophiles which are a major as a particularly problematic practice. How do I explain that some or- concern in Cambodia. In 2005 Coates Some stated performances were si- phans have parents, some kids are sto- stated that up to 22 per cent of all tou- milar to monkeys having to dance for len, some children are sold for a small rists to Cambodia came for sex, and their food, or dolphins performing in sum? Sometimes a broker from Ph- this statistic, or similar, was reiterated shows. One orphanage director sta- nom Penh will appear in a village and throughout interviews with orphanage ted that one child within their orpha- tell a young mother: directors. Key Informant 2, an orpha- nage had been moved by her family nage director, stated that he has been to his orphanage because she was so “Give me the kid. I’ll pay you $50, approached by a Westerner passing his unhappy having to dance every night and you’ll get pictures of the child’s orphanage asking if it allowed sex with (Key Informant 35). Another key con- happy new life overseas.” the children, clearly illustrating that in- cern was the practice of orphanages deed this is an issue in Cambodia, and sending children around Pub Street to And the broker will go away, with one that is unlikely dealt with in such encourage donations or visits to their the kid in her arms, and the mother an upfront manner on most occasions. orphanage with Key Informant 3, an will think it’s all for the best. But she Similarly, questions are being asked orphanage spokesperson, stating: starts to wonder when the letter’s don’t about whether some forms of orpha- come – they never arrive – and she ne- nage tourism were actually exploiting “If you’re taking children off the ver hears another word of her child those children it professes to help. streets...and they’re no longer having Although writing primarily about the Such concerns generally related to the to beg, what are the ethics of having trade in children for international ad- exploitation of children by the cen- kids out there at 10 o’clock at night options, similar practices have arisen tres themselves. One concern which dancing and inviting you to come and due to the high demand for orphans UNICEF and Friends International visit their orphanage? How is that any as a . The Indepen-

Dance at Siem Reap orphanage Source: Tess Guiney

Pacific News #38 • July/August 2012 13 dent article by Carmichael (2011b) sta- revenue and teachers and claim that Friends International (2011). Children are not tes that the UNICEF representative in it is of great benefit for the children Tourist Attractions. Retrieved 10 January 2012, from Cambodia “Mr Bridle said even those within their centres. Others, however, http://www.thinkchildsafe.org/thinkbeforevisiting/ tourists and volunteers who visited claim that although primarily founded Guttentag, D. A. (2009). The possible negative impacts of volunteer tourism. International Journal of with good intentions were sustaining on the best of intentions there can be Tourism Research, 11, 537-551. a system that was separating children many negative impacts from orpha- Hitchcock, M., King, V. T., & Parnwell, M. (eds.). from their families.” The article notes nage tourism, especially if there are (2009). Introduction: tourism in Southeast Asia Re- that many aid organisations in Cambo- no regulations in place. The possibility visited. In Hitchcock, M., King, V.T., and Parnwell, dia “suspect that those running homes of creating lasting attachment issues, M. (eds.). Tourism in Southeast Asia: Challenges and for children are enticing more parents the internalisation of notions of dif- New Directions. Honolulu: University of Hawai’i to give up their children with promises ference, separating children from their Press, 1-42. of food, shelter and, crucially in Cam- families and contributing to corrup- Kelto, A. (2010). In S. Africa’s Orphanages, Is Doing Good Really Bad?. npr (2010, 2 November). Retrie- bodia, education” (Carmichael, 2011b). tion in some centres can have signifi- ved 15 November 2011, from http://www.npr.org/ In addition, orphanages are seen as cant and long lasting effects. However, templates/story/story.php?storyId=130998857&sc=17 ‘sexy’ for donors and tourists but can although orphanage tourism has been &f=1001 actually divert resources and attention increasingly labelled as problematic it Lacey, G., Peel, V., & Weiler, B. (2012). Dis- from community development pro- is unclear what could happen to the seminating the voice of the Other: A case study of jects which keep children in homes children in these centres if orphanage philanthropic tourism. Annals of Tourism Research, 39 and can be seen as taking jobs from tourism ceased and centres were una- (2), 1199-1220. locals, increasing poverty. One tourist ble to operate which makes this an ex- Lyons, K. D., & Wearing, S. (2008). Journeys of Dis- covery in Volunteer Tourism: International Case Studies. I spoke with had recently visited an or- tremely complicated issue. Oxfordshire/ Cambridge: CABI International. phanage and stated that he was con- MOSVY (Ministry of Social Affairs, Veterans and cerned with some of their projects as References Youth Rehabilitation). (2008). Prakas on Minimum the orphanage stated that it was hel- Aljazeera, Tang (2010). Aljazeera 101 East: Standards on Residential Care for Children. Cambodia’s Orphanage Tourism. Retrieved 08 Octo- ping some of the children’s families by Richter, L. M., & Norman, A. (2010). AIDS orphan ber 2011, from http://english.aljazeera.net/program tourism: A threat to young children in residential care. giving them donation or animals, how- mes/101east/2011/02/2011210123057338995.html ever, he feared that potentially it could Vulnerable Children and Youth Studies, 5 (3), 217-229. Barbieri, C., Santos, C.A., & Karsube, Y. (2012). Robinson, M., & Novelli, M. (2005). Niche tourism: have been in exchange for letting their Volunteer tourism: On-the-ground observations from an introduction. 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(2011). Cambodia’s Curse: the Mo- year, volunteer-tourists and a popular practice of nal Representative). Literature and in- dern History of a Troubled Land. New York: Public development. Journal of International Development, terviews with key informants suggest Affairs. 16 (5), 681-692. that attachment issues are created due Callanan, M., & Thomas, S. (2005). Volunteer Tomazos, K., & Butler, R. (2008). Volunteer tourism: deconstructing volunteer activities within tourism: tourism, serious leisure, altruism or self to the inconsistency of the bonds crea- enhancement?’. CAUTHE 2008 Conference: Where ted which is in keeping with Richter a dynamic environment. In Novelli, M. (ed.). Ni- che Tourism: Contemporary Issues, Trends and Cases. the Bloody Hell are We?. and Norman’s (2010) findings. Multi- Oxford: Elsevier Butterworth-Heinemann, 183-200. Tomazos, K., & Butler, R. (2009). Volunteer tou- ple key informants, both orphanage di- Carmichael, R. (2011a). UNICEF Con- rism: the new ?. Anatolia, 20 (1), 196-212. rectors and volunteers, raised concerns cern Prompts Cambodian Investigation of tripadvisor.co.uk (2011a). Things to do in Siem about the potential loss that children Orphanages. Voice of America (2011, 23 March). Reap. Retrieved 9 November 2011, from http://www. feel when volunteers leave and the pos- Retrieved 14 November 2011, from http:// tripadvisor.co.uk/Attractions-g297390-Activities- sibility that they will then be unable to www.voanews.com/english/news/asia/southeast/ Siem_Reap_Siem_Reap_Province.html UNICEF-Concern-Prompts-Cambodian-Investigati- form healthy relationships later in life. tripadviser.co.uk (2011b). Traditional Khmer on-of-Orphanages-118493469.html Dance at ACODO orphanage. Retrieved 9 No- Carmichael, R. (2011b). Cambodia's orphana- vember 2011, from http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ Conclusion ges target the wallets of well-meaning tourists. The Attraction_Review-g297390-d1647060-Reviews- Founded on perceptions of poverty Independent (2011 25 March 2011). Retrieved Traditional_Khmer_Dance_at_ACODO_Orphana- and of aiding ‘others’ in ‘developing’ 14 November 2011, from http://www.independent. ge-Siem_Reap_Siem_Reap_Province.html countries ‘orphanage tourism’ has co.uk/news/world/asia/cambodias-orphanages-target- Wearing, S. (2001). Volunteer Tourism: Experien- become a significant tourist form in the-wallets-of-wellmeaning-tourists-2252471.html ces that make a Difference. New York/Oxon: CABI Chheang, V. (2008). The political economy of tou- Publishing. Cambodia, alongside many other ‘de- rism in Cambodia. Asia Pacific Journal of Tourism veloping’ nations. This research clearly Wearing, S. (2004). Examining best practice Research, 13 (3), 281-297. in Volunteer Tourism. In Stebbins, R.A., & Gra- illustrates the prevalence of orphanage Coates, K.J. (2005). Cambodia Now: Life in the ham, Ms (eds.). Volunteering as Leisure/Leisure as tourism in Cambodia. Many orphana- Wake of War. North Carolina/London: McFarland Volunteering: an International Assessment. Oxon/ ges rely heavily on tourists for both and Company Incorporated Publishers. Cambridge: CABI Publishing, 209-224.

Tess Guiney [[email protected]], is currently a PhD Candidate in the Geography De- partment at the University of Otago, under the supervision of Dr Douglas Hill & Dr Simon Springer. Contact: Department of Geography, University of Otago, PO Box 56, Dunedin, New Zealand.

14 Pacific News #38 • July/August 2012