TheThe Opel Association Association of of America America TheThe Opel Opel Exchange Exchange

TheThe Official Official Newsletter Newsletter of of the the OANA OANA VolumeVolume 6 6 No No.. 4 4 - - July/Aug July/Aug 1998 1998

Photo courtesy of Don Fox (Thanks Don)

Bob Legere on Intakes (Many thanks to Bob for this great article) OANA CLUB INFORMATION

The Opel Association of North America has been in existence as a local club since 1985. From 1994-1996 the club saw many transformations and in 1996 the O.A.N.A. was formed in its current form for the purpose of providing a source for locating parts, service, tech-help and a forum to exchange information with other owners of all Opel models from the 1957 Olympia to any gray market imports that are in North America; with a special emphasis on the Opel GT, Manta and Kadett models. Our ultimate goal being to keep the Opel marque a presence in North America, improving the collectiblity of all in North America and most of all have fun doing it.

The North American Registry was formed for the same reasons as The Opel Association, but with the small number of Bitter SC coupes imported into the U.S. and the non-existence of any club to help the owners of these rare and exotic , it was determined that our club would be the right place to give assistance to our sister make and help their owners have a place to become interconnected. · Club membership dues:

Regular Newsletter membership for U.S. and Canadian members are $30 for a 1 yr ($60 for 3 yrs) Net Only Membership (Members do not get a mailed newsletter, but download it from the net) is $20 for 2 years. · Mail all membership dues and advertising to:

The Opel Association of North America - c/o Membership 394 Mystic Ln. Wirtz, VA 24184

Our Email address is : [email protected] Our web site and links to our chapters web sites: http://www.opel-na.com/ Site Login: oana PW: 64kapi Join the Opel mailing list : Send email to [email protected] and request to be subscribed.

OANA CHAPTER INFORMATION

Mid-Atlantic Opel Association New England Opel Club Northeast (DC, DE, MD, NC, VA, WV) (CT, MA, NH, RI, VT, ME) (PA, NJ, NY) President - Charles Goin President - Gary Farias President - Kevin Podzebka Address: Address: Address: 630 Watch Hill Rd. 24 Columbia Rd. 6852 Fremont Rd. Midlothian, VA 23113 Swansea, MA 02777 Syracuse, NY 13057 Phone - 1-(804)-379-9737 Phone - 1-(508)-679-2740 Phone - 1-(315)-656-8238 Email - [email protected] Email - [email protected] Email - [email protected]

Southern Great Lakes – *NEW* Lone Star (AL, FL, GA, MS, SC, TN) (IL, IN, KY, MI, OH, WS) (AK, LA, OK and TX) President - Mark Elias President – Bill Hoffman President - Martin Reimer Address: Address: Address: 6462 Paula Ct. 30725 114th St. 5910 Hidden Mist Rex, GA 30273 Wilmot, WI 53192-0457 San Antonio, TX 78250 Phone - 1-(770)-968-7895 Email - [email protected] Phone - 1-(210)-520-6213 Vice President - Ken Litke Phone - 1-803-279-5796 Email - [email protected]

Mid-West Rocky Mountain Opels Pacific Northwest (IA, KA, MN, MO, NB, ND, SD) (AZ, CO, MT, NM, UT, WY) (ID, OR, WA and AK) President - Chad Fellmer President - Branston DiBrell President - Ed Thomas Address: Address: Address: 4915 S.Main St. 5245 Wainwright Dr. 1233 Firpack Dr. SE Cedar Falls, Ia 50613 Security, CO 80911 Lacey, WA 98503 Phone - 1-(319)-266-0940 Phone - 1-(719)-391-9421 Phone - 1-(360)-491-0865 Email - [email protected] Email - [email protected] Email - [email protected]

California Canadian Opel Club The Bitter SC Registry (CA, NV and HI) President - Marisa Giancarla President - Senen Racki President - Richard J. Anderson Address: Address: Address: 104 Esplanade Ave. #134 45 Memorial Ave. 26 Brandywine Pacifica, CA 94044 Stoney Creek, ON L8G 4C5 South Barrington, IL 60010 Phone - Phone - 1-(847)-836-5006 (415) 359-0385 (home) Email - [email protected] (415) 278-0727 (work) Email - [email protected] OANA TREASURER’S REPORT - 16 MAR - 15 JULY 98

We are continuing to improve our financial status because members are paying their dues - and we have been dropping non-paying “former” members from our records. I have tried to notify members when their dues are due. Please make a special effort to keep your membership “paid-up”. Our current status is as follows:

Receipts: Expenses:

Dues received (renewals): $ 510 US Postal Service: $ 119.68 Dues received (new members): $ 110 Carriage House Press: $ 133.98 Dues received (net-only): $ 100 M/A picnic & trophy: $ 176.00 Picnic/entry fees received: $ 139

Total receipts: $ 859.00 Total Expenses: ($ 429.66)

Monthly Total: $ 429.34 Balance brought forward: $ 574.52 Current Balance: $ 1,003.86

Membership renewals Net-only Memberships New Memberships

George Gordon Bill Shea Jr. Jerry & Roberta Otis Dave Shelmire Jack Rauch Brian Little Richard Uhlman Jr. Edwin Moren Jr. William & Angela Vienot Toby Thevenin Jak Jones Jack Dalton (Net-only) Bill Daley Allen Goodwin Norman Belt Donna Dobbs Joe & Sandy Olthafer Danielle Degman Don Trelstad David Komar Philip Naut Richard Barringer

Respectfully submitted: Erik Larsen - OANA Treasurer

UPCOMING EVENTS

· 18th Annual OMC Picnic and Show Los Angeles, CA August 8th-9th, 1998 · Estes Park Run Boulder, CO August 15th, 1998 · Southern Chapter Meet at Road Atlanta Atlanta, GA September 26th, 1998 · Spanish Peaks/Highway of Legends Run Pueblo, CO October 3rd, 1998

OANA SOUTHERN CHAPTER EVENT

Last year we had a great time! The Southern chapter will return again in September 1998. The event is a classic -racing event, with races in many classes scheduled throughout the weekend. If you have a racing Opel, please call Road Atlanta and see about getting your car into one of the group races. Major work has been done on the track - come and see what they have done. Last year, our Opels were running with the 911's on the course

HSR Atlanta Historic at Road Atlanta September 26th 1998 Cost is $25 for the day - ROAD ATLANTA 5300 Winder Highway, Braselton GA 30517 PH: 1-(770)-967-6143

Directions from Atlanta: Take I-85 North to Exit 49 The exit sign says: "Hwy. 53 - Braselton/Hoschton" Turn left and drive 5.5 miles Road Atlanta is on the left.

If you have any other questions: Call Mark Elias at 1-(770)-968-7895 or e-mail Ken Litke at [email protected] LETTER FROM THE PREZ & MID–ATLANTIC OPEL ASSOCIATION PICNIC NEWS

Despite the heat, the MOA picnic was held once again on the last Saturday in June. It seems like two things will always be guaranteed: we will get rained on at Carlisle (it’s only a matter of how much) and we will always be baked at the MOA picnic. This of course settles the debate between those that would prefer cool and drizzly over hot and sweaty, or vice-versa. Speaking of which, I am always getting questions as to when these two events will occur. Its simple: Carlisle Productions hates the Import Show so they will ALWAYS schedule it on Mothers’ Day weekend in May. We, on the other hand, have tried to make ours as convenient as possible so it is ALWAYS scheduled for the last Saturday in June. Well anyway, this year’s attendance was surprisingly low. I am not sure why. But I think it had something to do with the fact that Gary Farias had a great turnout for the NEOC Picnic in Boston, and it was the same weekend. Because I am sure it didn’t have anything to do with the turnout at Carlisle this year, which was a bit disappointing. Despite the heat and the low turnout (10 cars and about 25 people) we still had a great time. I was a bit annoyed, however, with my own GT. It has never given me a moment’s trouble since I got it on the road, but that changed on the way to the picnic this year. Some rust in the gas tank decided to make its way to the fuel line, and halfway to the show the car decided that it really would have preferred to have fuel instead of a blockage in the lines and stopped. To make things worse, I wasn’t even the one driving it, Jeremy and Brenda Storch were. Brenda came up from Texas for the show and to see Jeremy, who was in the area for military training, I was helping them get around while they were here, and of course I let him drive my GT. The side story to all this is, they were 5 minutes behind me on the phone to Kentucky for this same GT, so it could have easily been his GT instead of mine. Anyway, while Jeremy and I were fiddling with the GT trying to get it back on the road, my wonderful daughter Ann and Jeremy’s wife Brenda where doing what women do best, nagging us! (Just kidding… please, all wives and female Opel owners don’t take this literally; I’m going somewhere with that comment). They kept saying, “Why don’t we all get into the Acura and get to the picnic? Someone is sure to have a trailer there and you can come back and get the GT”. Well, I was being hardheaded and refusing to give up. I was also getting very annoyed with all the nagging and after the third trip to the gas station for a fuel filter and gas, blew my cool. So, I finally gave in and we all packed into the Acura. I was not at all happy since I was going to have to drop them all off and go back and try to continue to get the GT running, since I KNEW there wouldn’t be anyone at the show with a trailer. Since I needed to be there for the picnic, instead of fixing my GT, I was not having a good day. Well to make a long story short and get to the punch line, the women were right and, sure enough, Dave Weaver had brought his GT to the show on a trailer. So, even though there were hamburgers and hot dogs at the picnic I spent the rest of the afternoon eating crow! The good news was that once we got the GT to the park, all I had to do was remove the fuel line from the tank and blow out the rust chunks from the copper line. With all that said, I should finish the story by saying thanks again to Dave for going and TRAILERING my car back to the show so I could work on it there. Other than that, everything else went well and I think everyone had a good time at the show. Once again, I brought my toy collection so everyone could see it. But after reviewing the nicks and abuse my collection has taken over the last two trips to Carlisle and the picnic, I can say that I won’t be doing that again. Honestly, next year’s picnic is up in the air. I am looking for suggestions as to when and where we should have it. With all the members in my local area, I would think we should have a much better turn out then we have been getting and I would appreciate some ideas. One other note to mention, the OANA website password hasn’t been changed in months. I haven’t gotten around to calling the web host and getting it done. But as of this newsletter, the password will start to change every month. You will either receive an email on the subject from Erik or find it on the front page of the newsletter. Well, until the next newsletter… Charles D. Goin – M.O.A. President.

OMCS’ 18TH ANNUAL PICNIC AND CAR SHOW – A TRUE DON’T MISS SHOW

The Opel Motorsport Club's 18th annual Picnic & car show will be held on Sunday, August 9th in Huntington Beach, CA. This year, we celebrate not only our 18th anniversary, but also the 30th anniversary of the GT. A special T-shirt will be available, featuring artwork by Walter Fox Tree. Based on previous years, we expect between 50 -70 cars in the Show (allthough we're shooting for 100!), from daily drivers to wild customs. Some examples known to be coming are two Steinmetz GTs, targas, and a gorgeous candy red Steinmetz Manta with a 3.0L six cylinder stuffed under hood. Everyone always goes away happy, so if you can find a way to get to Southern California that weekend, we guarentee you'll have lots of Opel Fun! In addition to the show and picnic, we'll be giving away lots of door prizes, including a pair of Recaros from GT Source and a performance cam from Opels Unlimited. This year, we'll also be conducting a second raffle (raffle, door prize, whatever the legal beagles find politically correct) that consists of a $2000 rebuilt 1.9L engine, balanced, blueprinted and donated by Rogers Opel Engineering. Tickets for this engine will be sold at $20 each. As with last year's 5-speed Getrag, tickets for this prize can be purchased by mail through our Treasurer, but payment must be received by August 1st, and you'll have to pay shipping to get the engine delivered. For complete details and address of the Treasurer, visit our website: www.opelclub.com or call Russ Spreier at 1-(909)-242-0989 or Gill Wesson at 1-818-992-7776 We really want everyone in the Opel community to be there, and we always get people from far away, including Europe. Come join us!!

John Seaman - Editor, OMC Blitz THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN OPELS – CHAPTER NEWS

The Rocky Mountain chapter of the OANA is now down to 2 road runs to go. Rain/Snow dates for all of the runs are to be the weekend following the original date. Call me (Branston) at (719)391-9421 or email me at [email protected] to see if a particular run is to be postponed or cancelled.

Estes Park Run - Saturday August 15th 1998. A scenic run from Boulder on the Peak to Peak Highway. This route is a natural for a road run. The run will start on highway 119 out of Boulder. For this Run, bring your lunch - we will be having lunch outside (however, it will be in walking distance to some fast food).

Timetable: 7:15 am - Pre-Staging for Colorado Springs and Pueblo residents - meet at the Monument Conoco leave for Crossroads Mall parking lot in Boulder at 7:30am. 9:00 am - Meet at Crossroads Mall parking lot in Boulder located at Canyon Blvd (CO Hwy 119) and 28th St (US 36). 9:30 am - Leave Boulder Crossroads Mall via Canyon Blvd (CO Hwy 119) for Nederland. 9:50 am - Pass through Nederland - continue on CO Hwy 72. Twenty-three miles up, at the junction with CO Hwy 7, take CO Hwy 7 to Estes Park. 11:00 am - Arrive at Estes Park.

Return from Estes Park: 11:15 am - Leave Estes Park via US 36 toward Boulder. 12:00 noon - Arrive back at Boulder for lunch. We will have lunch somewhere on 28th St.

Spanish Peaks/Highway of Legends Run - Saturday October 3rd 1998. This run starts in Pueblo, CO and follows the Colorado designated scenic byway highway of Legends starting outside of Walsenburg and ends in Trinidad, CO with lunch along the way. A future optional leg of the run will be south to Raton, NM, then south and west to Taos (in time for dinner).

Timetable: 9:00 am - Meet at (to be determined) in Pueblo. 9:30 am - Leave Pueblo to start run. 10:00 am - Pass through Walsenburg. Take CO Hwy 12 (& US 160) west towards La Veta. Follow CO Hwy 12 through the town of La Veta and past Cuchara Ski Resort. 11:30 am (approx.) - Stop for snacks and sightseeing. 12:30 pm (approx.) - Continue run. 2:00 pm - Arrive at Trinidad, CO (location in Corazon de Trinidad to be determined).

Taos Leg (optional): 3:00 pm - Leave Trinidad south on I-25. 3:20 pm - Pass through Raton, NM. Follow US 64 West toward Taos. 6:00 pm - Arrive in Taos.

ROAD RUN TO GLENWOOD SPRINGS VIA ASPEN RECAP

Road Run to Glenwood Springs via Aspen - Saturday June 20th 1998. Here it was, the week prior to the Road Run. I hadn’t received 4 RSVP’s, and there were reports of snow (!?!) in the mountains. I checked the road conditions on the Internet - Independence Pass, usually open only in the Summer, was wet but still open. The Eisenhower Tunnel (on I-70) was open too, but had received 6 inches of snow and Trail Ridge Road (not on the route) was closed for a couple of days until they could clear the road. The RSVP’s did come through, however (I guess people have to wait until the last minute to RSVP - maybe they are busy looking up what RSVP means). The Road Run to Glenwood Springs via Aspen officially was a go.

Jak and I left from the pre-staging area (the Monument Conoco) ten minutes later than scheduled (John had called me earlier that morning and said that he was having car problems and *might* be able to make it - he wasn't able to make it). The sun was shining, it was a beautiful day. We get to Georgetown at 9:10 This is Georgetown at 9:30 in the morning. (boy the schedule was tight) to meet James and his buddy Stan. We are about to start the Run. ROAD RUN TO GLENWOOD SPRINGS VIA ASPEN RECAP – (CONT.)

After some coffee and snacks, we were ready to go. I also brought my video camera to James (left), Stan and myself videotape the Run from the passenger seat of my Opel (using a tripod). My plan is to turn the camera on and off throughout the Run - on the road and during times that we are stand by the Gondola in Aspen. stopped. During the trip, the tripod fell over only a few times when I wasn't able to catch Jak is taking the picture it.

The first leg (I-70 to the Copper Mountain turn-off) went well. I stayed behind (Sometimes I was trying to catch up) and got some good still and motion shots of James in his Manta and Jak in his GT. Off of I-70, we took CO 91 over Fremont Pass (by the Climax Molybdenum mine) down into Leadville. Some of those G forces going through those turns did cause me to steer with one hand and hold a 'floating' camera and tripod with the other. Leadville was a good place to stop, James needed gas, and Jak needed to stretch his legs.

Normally closed in winter, Independence Pass is not the main way to get into Aspen, but it is the shorter way. And it is beautiful. It has been *years* since I've driven up Independence Pass and I had forgotten how nice the scenery was. Twin lakes with the Continental Divide, as a backdrop is very pleasant indeed. Above timberline on CO 82, there is snow (recent and older snowstorms) on the sides of the road - when there is a side of the road. There are points where the road is so skinny; two cars can't pass each other going opposite directions. Going over the pass and down into Aspen took an hour (I can't understand why people can't go faster on winding roads with no guardrails).

Going uphill on Independence Pass. Yes, that’s snow on the right-hand side - it had snowed a couple of days before - of course the day after this was taken was June 21st, the start of Summer. Hey, at least the road was dry.

In Aspen, we found the Wienerstube Restaurant (I located this restaurant on the Internet and had never seen it in person - it was the cheapest place I could find). The establishment was a German restaurant, and up to then I had in my mind a 'Hot Dog Stand'. It turned out to be more 'elegant' than I had imagined, but the prices were modest (for Aspen, anyway). Also, while checking the footage I shot so far with my videocamera, I discovered to my dismay that the battery was dead. The battery (as I discovered later) ran out of juice on the downhill side of Independence Pass into Aspen. After walking around the 'downtown' area for a little bit, we were ready for the jaunt down to Glenwood Springs. By the way, on the way to Glenwood Springs, I was able to pick up BBC radio (it was a service called 'BBC World Radio' that was being broadcast from Aspen - talk about ritzy). Anyway, it was less than an hour to Glenwood Springs and its hot springs pool and vapor caves. At this point, I was almost out of money and had planned to skip the $7.75 for the vapor caves (even though it would have felt good after a day's drive). It turned out that the others felt the same way. By the way, we saw an Opel GT for sale in Glenwood Springs. You should be seeing the ad in an upcoming newsletter. One forgets that Opels are still all around - one just has to look out for them. That wraps up this Run. It was a good day.

JAMES SCHRECENGOST IS STILL RACING HIS MANTA

James Schrecengost is still racing at Stapleton (the former airport) in Denver. If you would like to watch him race, contact James at (303)420-0348 (or email him at [email protected]) or contact Branston at (719)391-9421 (or email at [email protected]). Racing Schedule for 1998 is: 4/19, 5/3, 5/24, 6/14, 6/27, 7/12, 7/26, 8/30, 10/4.

MEMO FROM THE RMO PRESIDENT

The RSVP experiment. Well, in planning the Glenwood Springs via Aspen run, I was afraid that only 2 Opels would attend (me being one of them) and that the other member would be disappointed in the turnout. Therefore I came up with an idea to have people RSVP so I could cancel the Run if the turnout was below some minimum (I decided on 4 Opels). Well, it worked (for the most part). I did get the 4 Opels (actually their owners) to RSVP by the deadline but one had car trouble on the morning of the Run. We were down to three then (actually, as it turned out, one Opel had two people inside - that made it three Opels and 4 people). We, however, had a fun time. On top of that, we saw a GT for sale in Glenwood Springs and on follow up, he knows of another Opel in the area that may want to join the club. Overall, I think the RSVP system was a success and will be instituted on some of the future Runs to insure good attendance. - Branston OPELS ON THE LAWN AT THE MUSEUM OF TRANSPORTATION, BROOKLINE, MA

The New England Opel Club held its annual Opel meet during the Museum of Transportation’s German Car Day lawn event. This was the second annual NEOC meet for Opel enthusiasts in the New England region. The weather was perfect and the attendance was high. Over 116 German cars participated including 7 Opels GT’s. There were more Opels there than BMW’s! The first German Car Day in 1996 had 1 Opel. In 1997, the first one for the NEOC, had 3. This year there were 7 and a lot of enthusiasm was shown from the 20+ Opelers who attended. Next year we hope to have a greater variety of Opels. (Travis, you have a full year to finish your Manta!) Gene Allen brought his very tastefully modified Teal colored GT, “Tealaway”, that he finished a week before the meet. Wayne Torman’s immaculately detailed original paint ’72, complimented his purple ’73. Gary Farias’ red ’69 and Walter Foxtree’s GT rounded out the Mass member’s cars. Rick Bualch and George Gordon drove their GT’s up from Connecticut. Also making the trip from Conn. But with out their Opel was Tom and Karen Desroches. Hal Gurman from Scottsdale, AZ stopped by. Hal is the former president of the Opel GT Club of New England, a GT club that existed back in the 1970’s. He was very impressed with the show and commented on the quality and quantity of GT’s present. Gil at Opel GT Source was kind enough to donate “Goodie bag” items and several other items that were put in a “Silent Auction”. The auction raised $39.00 and the money was donated to the museum. Gary Farias - NEOC

All entrants were given ballots and voted for their favorite cars in all the classes, this year, Opels had their own class and the winners were:

1st Place Gary Farias, 1969 Opel GT

2nd Place Wayne Torman, 1973 Opel GT 3rd Place Wayne Torman, 1972 Opel GT OPELS ON THE LAWN (CONT.) AT THE MUSEUM OF TRANSPORTATION, BROOKLINE, MA

GREAT LAKES CHAPTER MEET AT THE MARYVILLE ACADEMY AUTOSHOW, DES PLAINES, IL

First, I would like to say thanks to Bill Hoffman (Long time Opel woner and OANA member) for resureccting our Great Lakes Chapter. The current chapter president there didn’t do a whole lot and then got out of Opels. As you can see by the bottom two pictures, Bill Hoffman doesn’t look like he will be out of Opels for a while. Bill decided one day to take his great looking Manta to a local car show in IL and asked if anyone wanted to come. He did that over the net via our emailing list, and got Jim Toler (also a long time OANA member) with his equally assume looking GT To join him. Well, the primary thing I ask our chapter presidents to do is to try to at least once a year just set up a local event or gathering of some sort. Bill, by sending out that email, had already done just this. I figured he would be a good person to tap on the shoulder to take over the duties for the Great Lakes chapter. This was especially true since I already knew him and his car well from his trips out to Carlisle (He was one of the few die-hards that actually made it this year) and he seemed to me to be the kind of guy that wouldn’t mind. I should say he wouldn’t put up a fight if I asked (I get a lot of the chpater presidents that way – Ask Gary Farias or Ed Thomas). Well, anyway I would like to thank Bill for his efforts getting his show together at the last minute and hope to see more of those type of things in the future. IF you are in his region and would like to send him any suggestions or to help him out in anyway, email him at [email protected].

Jim Toler and his 73’ GT

Bill Hoffmanns’ 75’ Manta MID–ATLANTIC OPEL ASSOCIATION PICNIC - PICTURES MID–ATLANTIC OPEL ASSOCIATION PICNIC – PICTURES (CONT.) AND NOW BY POPULAR DEMAND ... ? - BY ROBERT LEGERE

Wow, I'm impressed. Over the last fourteen years, I've submitted various articles to many of the "Opel mags" in circulation. It started with OPEL U.S.A. (now defunct), The Opel Drivers Club of America (O.D.C.A., also out of circulation), and most recently THE BLITZ (The newsletter of the Opel Motorsports Club). Through the course of all this I've never received a single specific request for an article, even though I used to plead for people to get involved and submit ideas. It seems everyone wants to read about Opels, but nobody wants to make any effort to find fresh new ideas to write about. But this is no longer the case, since none other than Charles Goin of the Opel Association of North America has become the first ' to submit an official request. The Opel gods have listened! (Actually, I don't think Charles really counts here, since he is far from your average Opel enthusiast, but what the heck, I'll humor him.) As the editor of the O.A.N.A., Charles can surely relate to the difficulty involved in finding printable matter for his newsletter. I know the feeling well. When I'm on a roll and turn out a bunch of articles, it doesn't seem to matter much to most people. I get the occasional reference to something I wrote two years ago during a conversation, but for the most part there seems to be little in the way of comments, good or bad. So what's my incentive to keep on writing? Do I do another story on a cam test, or performance evaluation, or dyno pulls, or on shiny hubcaps? Without feedback, I have no idea. Occasionally I get someone asking why I haven't written an article lately. Have you asked for one lately? I mean specifically, on a particular subject. No? Well, that's why I haven't written. I get burned out, and I lose my creativity without input. I'd like to think I'm helping people or at least informing or amusing them, but if I'm not, why should I spend 2 or 3 hours writing about nothing? It can only help all of us, since you'll be getting (hopefully) the answers you need, and I'll be getting more initiative. Perhaps I'm creating my own controversy here for no reason, but regardless, I've been requested to write an article about Opel intake manifolds. Which ones to use, which to avoid, and the how and why of modifying them for better performance. Read on if you like. The first thing I'd like clarify here is that I'm going to be referring only to the standard type single carburetor intake manifolds for the 1.9 litre engines. I could delve into the sidedraft manifolds or the "Sprint" dual downdraft intake manifold or any of the many numerous custom possibilities (including fuel injection), but that is not what this is all about. This is about getting the most out of a single downdraft carb and intake. To start off with, getting the proper core is essential. I say this because there were numerous variations of the 1.9 intake manifold. I've personally seen seven different intakes for the U.S. 1.9's, and a few other European intakes that have made it over the ocean. Unlike most things Opel, the older manifolds are not better than the later smog-style intakes. Keep away from the old ones, unless the outward appearance is important to you. They can be improved, just not as much and with more work. In fact the later smog intakes are far superior for airflow and even air/fuel distribution. Notably, the older intakes have a pronounced "ramp" at the outer (towards the fender) side of the plenum wall. The plenum is simply the large open area directly beneath the carburetor. The inner side of the plenum wall (towards the valve cover) is more or less vertical. Besides the casting dates, the easiest way to identify a smog intake is by the presence of three ports or threaded holes in the plenum area. The third port (most have two, some only one) is the true identifying one, as it shows the presence of an EGR system. You'll see this on all 1973 and 1974 intakes, as well as some later 1972 intakes. Many of the 1974 intakes will also have "U.S.A." cast into the bottom of the plenum, albeit inverted. These intakes are my favorite to work with, as I've seen the best results with the least amount of work. The interesting thing about the various intakes is the carburetor mounting pad height. Apparently, Opel changed the heights to allow for installations in various chassis, or perhaps for different driving characteristics. I've seen three different heights myself, but that doesn't mean there aren't others. While somewhat confusing, it explains why some GT owners have hood clearance problems and others plenty of room when it comes to aftermarket air filters. I had always assumed that the clearance problems were due to settled engine mounts, but the intake heights are a more tangible reason. These variations are in increments of approximately 1/8". This can lend some advantages to tuning, particularly to those racers out there who run different tracks and are not allowed by the rules to add carburetor spacers. To lend credibility to the tuning possibilities, let me relate an experience I had. I used to have a 1973 Ascona with a stock low compression engine and hydraulic lifters. According to period magazine tests, the top end potential of that particular body style, , and gearing was 98 mph. I got 99 out of mine. Later, I added a 1975 exhaust manifold and a complete 2" exhaust system, a ported intake manifold with a 3/4" carb spacer and a 38 DGAS Weber carb, and a Jacobs electronic ignition. With this noticeably better breathing combination, the top speed was increased to 117 mph. That takes a significant improvement in top end horsepower to add 18 mph to the top speed. However, the around town torque was not especially great. To try to enhance this, I removed the 3/4" carb spacer, and installed just a 1/4" spacer. Within 20 minutes of running 117, 1 had the car back on the same highway, and could not break 108 for the life of me. But the torque and driveability at lower rpm's was improved dramatically. I think this shows what can be done with intake tuning, even on a standard engine with 80,000 miles on it. If you decide to increase the spacer thickness on a Manta or Ascona beyond 1/4", be sure to place spacers under the throttle linkage bracket as well to prevent binding. You'll need to go to longer fasteners too. Regarding carburetor spacers, if you decide to buy or make one up, go for the two-hole type spacer instead of the open type. These seem to have far better torque no matter what the situation. If you should happen to come across a later European intake, they seem to be the tallest. They are also usually identifiable by the bimetallic strip on the outside of AND NOW BY POPULAR DEMAND ... ? (CONT.) the plenum facing the fender. Some of the later U.S. intakes also have the boss for this bimetallic strip, but don't actually have one in place. These came on late '70's 1.9 liters and non-injected 2.0 liters. But you don't need to search one out if you aren't restricted by any rules, such as on a street car. I would use a 1/4" spacer on a standard or nearly standard engine, preferably made out of plastic or some other phenolic material to prevent heat transfer. Aluminum is O.K., but hotter climates seem to be tough on restarts after a good hot-soak. Up to 150 h.p., a half inch spacer works well, and after that, try a 3/4" spacer. After finding the proper intake for your use, decide how you're going to use your car, and which carburetor you intend to fit. It makes no sense to modify an intake for racing use and then putting it on a grocery getter with an automatic. First of all, remember that porting the runners gives no improvement. I've seen no improvements on the flow-bench in airflow, and not even a one horsepower improvement. The narrowest part of the intake runners is at the radius'. If you cannot increase the cross-sectional area at this radius, and/or increase the radius, then porting the rest of the runner will do nothing but increase the volume, and therefore reduce throttle response by delaying the time it takes to fill the runner with the next air/fuel charge. You definitely don't want to enlarge the runner right at the junction of the intake/cylinder head, because doing so risks reversion by mismatching. I've never seen a stock intake runner bigger than the port in the head, and it should stay that way. Port matching is highly over-rated, unless the port in the head is smaller than the intake runner. The area to concentrate all porting work on for a stock Opel intake is the plenum. Even if you have a stock intake with a 32/36 Weber carb, you should at least match the plenum opening to the carburetor base size. There is a mismatch of up to .100" on the secondary throttle plate. On most engines, this is a difference that you can feel. For those of you with a 38 DGAS Weber or larger, then you must open up the intake to the size of the larger throttle plates, or you will find that the larger carburetor offers no improvements over the smaller "standard" Weber. The 38 DGAS Weber has a wide range of uses. It can be installed on a completely standard engine and jetted accordingly for the 65-85 h.p of a stock Opel engine, or it can be used on a 140 h.p. engine with excellent throttle response and superb tuneability. This carburetor can even be modified to feed as much as 170 h.p., but at that level the top-end power tapers off much more than with a larger carburetor. Boring out the venturis from 27mm to about 31 mm , streamlining the auxiliary venturis and increasing the fuel inlet and needle/seat will allow those higher numbers to be achieved. Another thing to consider is this: You'll know when you're making power when you have to increase the fuel line to 3/8" and go with a bigger fuel pump. The 5/16" line is not enough with a single Weber. You'll empty the fuel bowl out at 140 h.p. while you're somewhere in third gear. Twin Webers and Holleys have more fuel capacity, so that limit won't be reached until much later, around 170 h.p. A neat trick I've tried was to bore out a 32/36 Weber on the secondary side only, and rejet accordingly. The impression was that of a four-barrel kicking in. Good fuel economy on the small barrel, with a heavy kick on the second barrel. Plus, it looks stock externally, a great way to confound the unknowing! Another carburetor that can be used on the Opel engines with success is the Holley 2-bbi. I'm not talking about the Holley-Weber 5200 series. Those should never be used on an Opel engine, as the primary and secondary barrels are reversed, and they tend to run the center cylinders lean. I'm speaking about the 2300 series carburetors, specifically the #4412 500 cfm carb. You can use a 350 cfm 2-bbl but they're more expensive than the 500 and are only a marginal step above the 38 DBAS Weber (330 cfm). By the way, the 32/36 Weber is 270 cfm. The #4412 Holley can be put on a stock Opel intake with a 1/2" aluminum adapter plate such as the Trans-dapt #2138. There will be a massive amount of material to grind away from the intake to match it to the adapter, but the improvement will be worth it. You will have to make your own throttle linkage, but I've found that a universal motorcycle clutch cable works well and is inexpensive, about $16.00. You'll also need to experiment with air filters for hood clearance on the GT. Getting back to the intake mods, concentrate on the transition from the plenum to the beginning of the intake runners. You almost can't make this area too big. For instance, I typically break right through the casting in eight different places when porting an intake. These will need to be either welded up or epoxied with the proper material. I use a material called Kop-Coat A-788 Splash Zone Compound. It is actually designed to be applied to boat hulls under water, and it will cure under water beautifully. It's impervious to 400 degree heat, oils, fuels, water obviously, and any other chemicals I've thrown at it. It is also not on sale to the public unfortunately, and the smallest amount sold is in two gallon lots for about $100.00. But it's much cheaper than welding if you're doing more than a couple of intakes, and its easy to work with. You can use Marine-Tex marine epoxy with slightly lower results, but at least that's sold to the public for about $45.00 a quart. The down side to the Marine-Tex is it will absorb gas unless sealed with another epoxy, and for this I use West System marine epoxy, #105 resin and #206 hardener, and its available at many marine shops in gallons or quarts. This is liquid epoxy that is water clear, while the others mentioned above are colored and putty-like in consistency. After the other epoxy has hardened, I brush on the liquid epoxy with a disposable acid brush. Even when I use the Kop-Coat epoxy, I apply the liquid epoxy to the inside & outside exposed epoxy putty. This will seal the surface and prevent lifting or saturation with gasoline, which may cause later lifting. This process has taken years of trial and error to figure, but it's been reliable in its' latest incarnation, even for racing applications. The prep-work prior to any epoxy adhesion is also important. All grease must be removed, but the important thing is to have a rough surface for proper adhesion. Any area that has been sanded with porting instruments is probably O.K., but other areas that may need epoxying such as the plenum bottom (more on that later) -will be relatively smooth. I glass-bead the entire intake before beginning to apply AND NOW BY POPULAR DEMAND ... ? (CONT.) epoxy, and also clean it with brake-clean. I don't recommend lacquer thinner, as it will leave a film that does not promote adhesion, while the brake-clean solvent will leave it spotless. As far as the plenum bottom goes, in some applications, it's beneficial to fill the plenum somewhat to improve torque. It has the same result as the smaller carburetor spacers, i.e., it decreases the plenum volume for better bottom-end power, and prevents fuel puddling that could be a problem on an engine with low vacuum. How much depends on the intended usage. I'll explain that later and illustrate it as well. Over the years I have developed various degrees call them stages!) of preparation for the 1.9 intakes based on flow bench work, street testing, and race testing. While I no longer sell prepped intakes, it makes sense to base this article on those proven items, as they were developed in a progressive series, from mild to all-out. Even if you have no intention of hot-rodding your Opel, at least do yourself a favor and match the top opening of the intake to whatever carburetor you decide to use. While it will only improve power a little, it will also help with throttle response and even fuel economy. What you will need AND NOW BY POPULAR DEMAND ... ? (CONT.)

The Street-Ported Intake

Here it is, the easiest way to put 5 - 8 h.p. into your Opel, everywhere in the power band. After grinding the opening of the intake to match your carb, (I like to make it slightly larger than the carb to avoid possible reversion from misalignment, about .080" larger) simply smooth out the sharp angle at the top of the runner opening, where it meets the plenum. It's very tight there, but a substantial amount of material can be removed. The intent is to increase the radius. To avoid breaking through, limit the material removal to about .250" on the diagonal. You'll need at least a 4" long carbide burr, and it should be a single-cut type so it doesn't clog easily. I use kerosene in a coffee can for a carbide lubricant, and dip the carbide in it every minute or so, as needed. A 1/2" oval head cutter works very fast, in fact it's easy to port through in no time if you don't pay attention! Another place that can have material removed for better flow is the area near the through-bolts that hold the intake to the stock exhaust manifold. Be careful here as they can break through easily as well, since they are very thin to begin with. I probably remove around .100" of material from each of the four protrusions. After all the appropriate areas are ground away with the carbide burr, you'll probably want to use a few cartridge rolls to polish the material smoother. Avoid the temptation to make it shiny. All you are looking for is a uniform surface, not a mirror. In the case of intake manifolds (or intake ports for that matter), rougher is better. I used to polish my intake manifolds with 80 grit, thinking that was rough enough. But I now use 36 grit, as it helps to break up the air/fuel droplets much better, retaining atomization, and therefore better power with less fuel, hence greater economy. I use a 1/2" x 1 1/2" straight cartridge roll for easier access. With this degree of porting done, the outside of the manifold will look standard, and the stock exhaust manifold can be used too. By the way, any intake porting is easier if the carb studs are first removed. Porting is very difficult to describe in print, so I have some sketches to help clarify it, but even then I realize that it's not an easy thing to translate to real life.

The Torquer Intake AND NOW BY POPULAR DEMAND ... ? (CONT.)

The Torquer Intake – Cont.

This is a more recent development, at least compared to the other manifolds, which I've done for the past seven or eight years. One of the biggest complaints from most Opel owners is simply this, "Not enough torque!". True, if you install a larger carburetor, especially on a stock engine with low compression, there is not enough "oomph" down low. There are tons of reasons for this, but it doesn't help that the standard Opel intake plenum is fairly large to begin with. Porting the manifold only makes it bigger. But if the shape could be improved by porting, and the volume remained as stock or smaller, then you'd have the best of both worlds. So the porting work performed is actually identical to the street-ported intake talked about above, but the plenum is reshaped with epoxy. O.K., a lot of epoxy. Basically, the entire plenum floor is filled somewhat, but in a specific shape. The intent is the create a "roof' shape, with the peak running the direction of the cars axles, or side-to-side. This prevents puddling of fuel, takes up plenum volume, helping engine vacuum and torque/throttle response, and it also directs the air/fuel to the runners, rather than just dropping it to the plenum bottom and letting it find its' own way. Forming the epoxy is a bit time consuming, although that Kop-Coat has an advantage over the Marine-Tex in that it forms better with water, almost like clay. I still recommend using the clear epoxy as a sealer after the putty has cured. This type of intake shouldn't be used with a standard exhaust manifold, as the heat might release the epoxy from the floor of the intake. In addition to the normal prep work before applying epoxy, I also drill shallow 1/8" holes on the plenum bottom to help with adhesion.

The Hot-Street Ported Intake

When you want you car to boogie, here's the ticket. I've seen 12 h.p. from one of these intakes. And as I've said in the past, there is no other singular item you can bolt onto your Opel that will give that much power, short of nitrous oxide. You will feel and hear a difference. At this point, not much concern is given over if you'll port through the intake casting, but rather when. In fact, the porting through is used as a guideline to determine if you've gone far enough. When I see four equally sized holes at the junction of the plenum and the runners, I know I'm just about there. And those intake-to-exhaust manifold bolt bosses are also broken through as well in four spots. Now we're getting somewhere! A bunch of epoxy is applied and then sanded level after curing, then coated with the clear resin for protection. This cannot be used with a standard exhaust manifold for sure. A header or 1975 manifold is necessary. I'd estimate that 1/2' of material is removed from the junction between the plenum and the entry roof on the runners. lt'll leave oval holes about 1/2" by 3/4" in size. At the sides of the plenum, not only do I break through the casting to the machined area for the intake/exhaust manifold bolts, but sometimes I'll keep right on going 'til I hit the actual bolt hole. You'll want to also fill those bolt holes from below if you get this far. AND NOW BY POPULAR DEMAND ... ? (CONT.)

The Torquer/Hot-Street Combo Intake

Just as the name implies, this matches the porting of the Hot-Street with the plenum epoxy job of the Torquer. It really is the best of both worlds in a sense, and is especially useful for lower compression performance engines, or engines that will not see much high rpm usage. This is much more labor intensive, but the payoff is worth it.

The Race-Ported Intake

Even more grinding is done for this intake on the upper radius, but the big change over the previously talked about intakes is that epoxy is not used, but rather the intake is welded-up prior to any grinding. This'll take any amount of heat even in a high stress racing application, and there's little concern over low-end torque. The intake has to be jigged to prevent warping, but even still it needs some mild surfacing to bring it all true.

The Racer 11 Intake

All-out balls-to-the-wall power is all that matters here. Gotta run a stock intake because the rules say so? No problem, just weld it like the intake above, then cut the bottom off and port the hell out of all the runners from plenum to head. The inner radius of cylinders 2 and 3 are welded 1/2" and the radius increased drastically, then the bottom is welded back on and the whole thing sandblasted. Too much work for anything but a pure race car.

What's it gonna cost?

Well, if you don't have any tools or materials of your own, then it's gonna cost a bunch. You'll need a high-speed die grinder and an air source. A 4" single cut carbide burr is $35.00 to $45.00. The sanding rolls are about $25.00, and the mandrel is about $5.00. All that epoxy will set you back at least $100.00 for the smaller quantities, plus there's your time. Never did it before? It'll take you two to six hours, depending on how crazy you go. However, if you have a friend with the tools, or you own them yourself, and maybe you split the material costs with some other Opel owners, then it wouldn't be so bad, and I think you'd get a lot of bang for the buck. I hope that this has helped to unlock some of the mysteries of the Opel intake manifold. I still believe that it's one of the simplest ways to make a big difference in power and torque. The 1.9 manifold can also be modified with some minor welding to fit the 2.2 and 2.4 Opel cylinder heads. This provides a user-friendly and cost effective alternative to the Opel fuel injection. Happy Opeling. ADS – ADS – ADS - FOR SALE / WANTED / NEEDED - CARS AND OR PARTS

· '73 Opel GT – Email: [email protected] - Complete parts car with extra parts and books. Could be used as a base for a restoration. Owner George Hupp is in Ohio, the GT is in Flagler, CO. Contact Branston DiBrell at (719)391-9421 or by email for pictures of the GT & the extra parts. · 1969 Opel Kadett Rallye - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Minnesota - 1969 Opel Kadett Rallye for sale. 1.9l with Weber carb, new exhaust and new rear suspension. needs rocker panels, trunk floor and rings. Some spare parts available. E-mail me if you're interested. · Dellorto 48mm. Sidedrafts - EMail: [email protected] - Location: California - carburators complete with pushrod linkage, Stienmetz manifolds and airfilters. Best offer. I also have many other Opel race ralated and Big Brakes, 4.86:1 gearset, ect. can be reached at Ford Cook 707-938-0579 · '70 Opel GT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Arkansas - 70 GT 4 spd. Less than 500 miles on rebuilt engine. Interior is rough, good parts car or restoration project. Has GT gas cap. Call (501) 223-2989 or by email. Best offer gets it. · 1974 - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Virginia - 1974 Opel Manta 1900 4spd Body good. Plus -load of extra parts. Car is driven daily. Never wrecked. Body straight. No broken glass. Needs interior work. Very restorable. Will sell all for $1800.00 o.b.o. · 1975 Manta - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Michigan - 1.9L signal blue, 4-spd., 72K orig. miles, tons of new parts, good project car, must sell as soon as possible. $1900.00 o.b.o. (734) 973-8782 leave a message for Sean · 1971 OPEL GT PARTS - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Ontario, Canada - I need the following parts for my 1971 Opel GT: - driver's side door glass with or without door; solex carburettor; mechanical fuel pump; radiator; accelerator linkage connecting carb. Items must be in good condition.. · 73 Opel GT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Colorado Yellow, 40K mi after rebuild, weber, extra rims & insignias, 2 shop manuals, locking gas cap w/key, exterior & mechanicals are very good, upholstery needs some attention; AZ car(no rust) located in Colo Springs, CO. Contact Branston (719)391-9421. · 1970&71 Opel GTs & parts - EMail: [email protected] -Location: Virginia - 2 Opel GTs 1970 body and 1971 complete car for parts,numerous Manta parts asking $1,000.00 or best offer for all Call (540)-639-1962 · 72 OPEL GT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Georgia - 72 GT, Sunburst Gold, manual trans, no AC, very smooth running engine.Cars hasn't been licensed in several years. Kept in garage $1500. Terry 706-769-6545 · 1972 Opel GT & 1974 Opel 1900 - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Pennsylvania - Brother died, left 2 excellent condition Opels (GT and 1900). Low milages, always garaged. Will sell to best offers - Serious buyers only who want classics that need little restoration. No bargain shoppers. · 1973 Opel GT Parts car - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Illinois - Good running engine.....all parts are there...body rusted out badly....new windshield....$500.00 obo · VARIOUS OPEL GT PARTS - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Wisconsin - I have stripped a couple of GTs, and have 2 parts cars, some things i will never use. Please feel free to inquire, and i will have a look see, maybe i got what ya need. · Opel GT Parts - URL: http://www.europa.com/~doomer/Opelparts.html - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Oregon - I have lots of parts left over from my conversion. Mostly suspension parts. Check out my web pages for more info. · Opel GT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: South Carolina - i'd like to get an Opel GT at a reasonable price, must run, be driveable, and not have much body damage, interior doesn't matter, must be within the south east u.s.(s.c., n.c., ga., fl, tenn., ky, etc.) · 1970 Opel GT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: South Carolina - 1900 cc engine w/ 4 speed needs body work (rust only) was running when parked (4 years ago) $500 (843) 857-1835 · 1974 Opel Manta - EMail: [email protected] - Location: California - Runs good. fully restorable $1500.00 obo · '70 Opel GT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Washington - 70 Opel GT All or part. Good transmission, water pump, glass and more. all for more info. First $100 takes all. Maple Valley. 425-413-0163 · Air conditioning system for Opel GT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: California - Looking for complete package of parts to install air conditioning into an Opel GT. All interior parts as well compressor, brackets, pulleys, etc. Preferably GM setup. Does not need to work. · 1974 Opel Manta - EMail: PONYGIL@AOL - Location: New Jersey - Manta 1900, Manual Trans, Antique Bronze. Original Owner; car needs some · work including electrical. Have many new parts for it. Would like to sell for $200.00 to someone who would restore her to her "glory days" ! Solex manual carb. · 1974 Opel Manta - EMail: [email protected] - Location: California - Rebuilt engine (few miles) needs smog certification. Restorable with minimal body work or good for parts (including all glass). $1,000.00 · 1973 OPEL GT and PARTS - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Ohio - 1973 Opel GT runs good, needs restored. Lots of extra parts: engine, transmission, rear end, glass, new chrome wheels, body and interior parts. $900.00 Call 513-875-3548 · Olympia PI and PII (57-62) wanted - EMail: [email protected] - Location: District of Columbia - Need a daily driver, some body, brake and engine work O.K. Should be complete. CarAvans preferred. Please offer PI/PII parts cars and cheap Kadett daily drivers, too. · 32 Opels (27 are GT's), NOS parts, manuals, brocheurs - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Utah - 32 Opels (27 are GT's)in various shapes ($17,500), 600+ NOS Opel parts of 200+ stock #'s...($ 4,000), 300+ shop & owner manuals, brochures etc ($2,000). Total = $23,500. Cars are located in Utah. I will discount if you want the entire lot. · Opel GT race parts wanted in washington - Location: Washington - ask for trent 253 891-0861. road racing parts wanted for 1970 Opel GT. · 74 Opel 1900 - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Colorado - 2 dr white/low miles (79K original) runs well new tires, new carbs, no body rust, cracked windshield $1,100 – · I need GT lenses - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Georgia - I need like new taillights. Reflectors& lenses w/ gaskets. I need new shift boot, all for 69-72 GT.I have many parts to trade and sell also. Please contact. · I am looking for a running Opel GT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Florida - I am looking for a low priced, running, manual trans. GT somewhere around North Florida or South Georgia... · 73 GT 4spd Transmission - EMail: [email protected] - Location: New York - For sale: 73 GT 4spd Transmission in excellent condition, thoroughly cleaned inside and out, new seals & gaskets, painted high-temp paint, no need, asking $150, other GT parts available call Rich 201-585- 2370 leave message or e-mail. · 1970 Opel GT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Maryland - 1970 Opel GT, 1.9L, Runs fantastic! Needs some love and care on interior and body. Many extra parts available. Asking $1400. Email Mark for more info. · 72 Opel GT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Texas Good body,and complete car needs redone. Blue w/black interior. Pictures avaliable via e-mail. Has A/C and stereo. Asking $1500.00 obo. · Misc Parts - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Michigan - N.O.S parts,Opel axel shaft bearings (3) Transmission end housing, fuel pump for 1.9 Kadett or Rekord. These parts were from a supplier going out of business. Make an offer for all. Doug at [email protected] · MUST SELL 73 Opel GT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Kansas - 73 Opel GT, new paint ( red) new engine Pontiac 151, Comp cam, 194 valves mille & ported Holley 4brl, Corbeau seats, Gold mesh Primes 195/50/15 Dunlops 700r4 auto OD trans $4,000 ADS – ADS – ADS - FOR SALE / WANTED / NEEDED - CARS AND OR PARTS

· Manta parts needed - URL: http://home.earthlink.net/~Opelblitz - EMail: [email protected] - Location: South Carolina - (1) ARA underdash AC console for Manta (1) 1975 fuel injection system Thanks, Ken 803-279-5796 · Complete Engine for 73 Opel G.T. - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Missouri - Complete Engine 1.9 Liter, Rebuilt Head, new water pump, fuel pump, lifters, rockers. Many Parts Please make offer. Email or phone me at 314-240-5324. · 1970 GT - URL: http://www.usedstuf.com - EMail: [email protected] - Location: California - California car, restored in 1983 by current owner, low mileage on re-build. Not running, call (530) 265-3742 or store number on web site http://www.usedstuf.com. Digital camera photos available by request (we can send by e-mail). · 1973 Opel GT and Parts - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Ohio - 1973 Opel GT runs good, needs restored. Lots of extra parts: engine, transmission, rear end, glass, new chrome wheels, body and interior parts $900.00 Call Ray McComas 513-875-3053 · 1973 Opel GT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Virginia - Original is the key phrase here! 90k original miles, flame glo orange, Driven daily. 4 speed. 2 small rust spots. All original len smarkers are not cracked. New Weber Carb. 4 New Goodyear Regatta tires. Not far to full restoration. I'm the 2nd owner, my mom was the 1st. Must sell -$1500 obo. Call Russell Pleasants @ (804) 553-0300. · 1971 Opel GT 1.9L carbutor - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Alberta, Canada - I need 1971 Opel GT's 1.9l Carbutor. would you send with the price. Thanks · 1975 OPEL MANTA - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Minnesota - no rust car has never seen snow org from AZ Yellow in color Fuel Inj many new parts will sell with or without eng 750 w/o 1250 with Need space in garage have owned since 86 · 1969 OpelGT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: North Carolina 1969 Original car. Interior and Paint redone-83 Automatic, No rust, Storedin garage since 85, engine run monthly, Currently inspected and on the road. Call Chris&Mary Brooks in Charlotte at 704-846-4623 $7000 Serious only · Anyone parting out a '73 Opel Manta?? - EMail: [email protected] - Location: California - I am looking for motor mounts for a '73 Opel Manta. · 1959 Record olympia runs,drives and stops good complete but needs restored. - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Pennsylvania Price $999.00 · 69 GT for sale - URL: http://justbmws.com - EMail: [email protected] - Location: California - 69 Opel GT.Close ratio ZF 5-speed over drive (rally box),1000miles on a fresh motor,rally cam, 9.8:1 pistons, big valves,Steinmets vented 4 wheel discs. Bilsteins,urethane bushings, sway bars, He will part it out if it comes down to it. · Rust free G.T. wanted - EMail: [email protected] - Location: New Zealand - I am seeking a rust free original Opel GT for export / restoration. preferably & low miles. mechanical condition not so important · 1970 Opel GT - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Pennsylvania - Some spots of rust, but rocker panels and edges of fenders seem intact. Yellow exterior. Black interior fair to poor. Manual trans. Minor engine work needed. Brakes questionable. $1400 or negotiable · Opel Manta race cars - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Ohio - Opel Manta-Ex GT-3 car, full cage. aluminum interior. figerglass front fenders and rear flares. no engine/trans/rear end. Opel Manta-ex pro rally car-rust free tub. Full cage. Engines & transmissions available. · 72 Opel GT, show quality, only serious offers considered - EMail: [email protected] - Location: Texas - 32K original miles, 1 owner, cold A/C,automatic, all owners manuals, All original including the tires. only driven 4 years, stored for 22 years, runs great/drives good placed 4th in Houston Autorama, Needs a good home to an Opel purist.

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