agricultural researcher Walter clore (1911–1991) Was recognized by the Washington state legislature as the “father of the Washington Chateau Ste. Michelle (now Ste. Michelle Wine industry” in 2001 Wine Estates). When he left in 2000, the company had gone from $5 million in an- nual sales to a handful of states, to $175 million in annual sales to most states and more than 10 countries worldwide. Also during this time, David Lake joined Co- lumbia Winery, another one of Washing- ton’s original producers, as the first Master of Wine—an official certification that in- cludes rigorous testing—to make wine in the United States. He realized the state was capable of producing high quality red wines with classic European structure, such as the Bordeaux-style blends that Washington is l l becoming known for. e v a From the late 1970s through the early e l 1990s, key boutique winery players—Alex e l Golitzin of Quilceda Creek Vintners, Gary l e i Figgins of Leonetti Cellars, Rick Small of n a Our State Of Wine Woodward Canyon Winery, Marty Clubb d : of L’Ecole No. 41 and Chris Camarda of e Master Sommelier and Washington Wine Commission t i Andrew Will—balanced daytime jobs with s o education director Shayn Bjornholm takes a look at the time in garages and sheds where they fol- p p o lowed their instincts that Washington wines past, present and promising future of Washington wine ; could astound. And their dreams of owning r e this year could prove t a truly land- grapes in the wet western part of the state. In full-time wineries were fulfilled. Brothers n e mark vintage for Washington wine. The 1903, the introduction of large-scale irriga- Mike and Gary Hogue of Hogue Cellars c e industry is celebrating substantial anniver- tion gave life to the barren desert of Eastern and Jeff Gordon of Gordon Brothers Win- r o saries—20 years for the Washington Wine Washington where many of today’s vines are ery created large, high-value brands that in- l c Commission as the premier industry mar- located. In 1969, horticulturist Walter Clore creased Washington’s reach beyond the re- r e keting body, and 40 years in business for persuaded the state legislature to lift laws gion. Other growers also contributed: Paul t l Chateau Ste. Michelle. And we’ve squarely that prohibited selling quality California Champoux of Chateau Champoux vine- a W caught the attention of the nation’s influen- wine. He knew it would force Washington yard, Jim Holmes of Ciel du Cheval Vine- f o tial wine experts. In January, Wine Specta- winemakers to raise their standards, grow yard and Mike Sauer of Red Willow Vine- y s tor magazine’s Harvey Steiman wrote, “The better grapes and make higher-quality wines yard, David and Patricia Gelles of Klipsun e t first decade of the 21st century almost cer- from grapes that he knew—from decades of Vineyards and others all understood early r u o tainly will be remembered by wine lovers as planting trials—would thrive in our climate. the great potential of their single vineyard c ; the time when Washington arrived.” With In the early ‘70s when the Riesling craze hit sites, which now command top dollars, l l more than 500 wineries (up from a mere 19 the country, world famous wine consultant prominent wine label listing and industry e v a in 1981), thousands of newly planted acres Andre Tchelistcheff began working with respect from around the world. e l of vineyards coming of age and a develop- Chateau Ste. Michelle, helping it become a Others—like Rob Griffin, who celebrates e l ing world-class enology program at Wash- top Riesling producer and boosting the con- 30-years in winemaking this year and, like l e ington State University (currently available fidence of state winemakers. many other Washington winermakers, at- i n a on the Pullman and Tri-Cities campuses), However, it has really only been in the tended the world-class University of Cali- d : Washington winemakers have every reason last 30 years that the state has emerged as a fornia at Davis—looked to Washington to e g to rest on their laurels. But instead, they are world-class producer of wines. Several key strike out on their own. Griffin moved to a p asking, “How can we do this better?” players have had immense impact on get- Washington in 1977 when there were fewer s u To have a true appreciation for Washing- ting to this point. In 1979, Allen Shoup, a than 10 wineries in Washington, though o i v ton wine, you need to start back in the 1800s, visionary of wine marketing strategy from most of his classmates were encouraging e r when European settlers planted the first Gallo Wine Estates in California, came to him to stay in California. He became the p 1 1 6 s e a t t l e AUGUST 2007 winemaker at Preston Wine Cellars in Pasco and then in 1983 established his own Here are some of Shayn Bjornholm’s award-winning winery, Barnard Griffin, with his wife Deborah Barnard. Doug Mc- current favorite Rieslings: Crea of McCrea Cellars, Casey McLellan of Seven Hills, Kay Simon of Chinook Winery, Tom and Anne Marie Hedges of Hedges Family Estate, Mark Newton of 1. WoodWard canyon 2006 dry Distefano Winery and so many others helped establish successful small high-qual- riesling, columbia Valley ($25) • ity wineries during this period. In the late 1990s wineries such as Cayuse, K Vint- sourced from duBrul vineyard, located on ners, Pepper Bridge and Betz Family Winery raised the bar even further, receiving a rocky, south-facing slope overlooking national recognition in restaurants and collector’s cellars. yakima valley, this is one of the united What of tomorrow? In the past decade or so, there has also been an explosion states’ great alsace-style rieslings (read: of wineries and an influx of bright, young, artisan boutique winemakers such as fuller bodied, just a hint of sweetness and crisp acidity). the amazing mineral- Matthew Loso of Matthews Estate, Eric Dunham of Dunham Cellars, and more ity is a majestic counterbalance to the recently, Caleb Foster of Buty Winery, Jamie Brown of Waters Winery and others grape’s natural red apple and green peach (see p. 128). And quirky California winemaker Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon fruit-forward, highly floral characteristics. Vineyard has set up shop in West Richland, where he hopes to eventually produce Pairs with: seared duck breast with grilled 300,000 cases of Riesling a year at his new winery, Pacific Rim Winemakers. brandy-misted peaches. International interest in Washington wines has soared, with highly respected glo- betrotting winemakers crafting fine wines from Washington grapes. Allen Shoup 2. J. bookWalter 2006 riesling, enlisted Bordeaux’s Michel Rolland to craft his Long Shadows Pedestal and Germa- columbia Valley ($15.50) • this wine ny’s Ernst Loosen crafted Eroica Riesling in collaboration with Ste. Michelle Wine is a more powerful style with a lightly floral lift, but grounded with kicked-up dirt road Estates (which also recently opened the stunning Col Solare Red Mountain Winery and apricot pit aromas. it is a bit less acidic and Estate Vineyard with Piero Antinori of Marchese Antinori, one of Italy’s most than most in Washington and has a very famous winemaking families). Beautiful artisan wineries have also been popping long finish. this is a softer, easier-drink- up around the state over the past few years, such as Cave B Wine Estates on the ing wine for those weaned on the sweeter Columbia River and former Chateau Ste. Michelle winemaker Mike Januik’s new style. Pairs with: red-curry-dusted rock Novelty Hill Winery tasting room in Woodinville, making Washington not just a fish fillet with mango chutney. wine producing state, but a tourist destination. To ensure the industry’s future, Washington State University Dean of Agricul- 3. & 4. Poet’s leaP 2005 riesling ture Dan Bernardo is in the process of raising a $2 million endowment to found (from long shadoWs With armin a School of Enology with a curriculum focusing on Washington climate and soil, diel of nahe, germany) ($20) • chateau ste. michelle 2006 eroica the Northwest equivalent of the respected UC Davis program. And showing our riesling (With ernst loosen of region’s concern for the environment, a group of winemakers including Marty mosel, germany) ($22) • no discus- Clubb of L Ecole No.41, Norm McKibben and Jean-Francois Pellet of Pepper sion of a Washington riesling renaissance Bridge Winery, Chris Figgins of Leonetti Cellars, Mike Neuffer of Nicolas Cole would be complete without a proper ode Cellars, Tom Waliser of Beresan Winery, Rick Small of Woodward Canyon Winery to the two that started it. Both of these and others have spearheaded VINEA: The Winegrowers’ Sustainable Trust, a Walla wines were released with an eye toward supplying the world’s renewed demand for Walla-based vineyard management initiative encouraging earth friendly, farm-sus- this majestic grape. Both were made in tainable practices. partnership with iconic riesling producers Of course, the Washington wine industry has its work cut out for it. It must from germany, the oldest riesling-produc- position itself as a premium wine-growing region, for it can’t compete with the ing country in the world. Both prove that lower prices of the high volume category dominated by California and Australia. Washington has one of the top climates And because it is so successful with so many different styles of wine—from Riesling for the grape, even amid the desertlike vineyards east of the cascades.