Pure Light Chinese Peony, Helping Oily Skins to Rebalance
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Pure Light Chinese peony, helping oily skins to rebalance Because the nature of oily skins is in an original unbalance with many consequences, it is necessary to act on several levels with respect of essential skin mechanisms. To get a purified, soothed tone more uniform, radiant. How it works Pure Light Chinese peony acts on different levels of epidermis before and after the phenomena of sebum surproduction by the sebaceous glands. First, it limits the quantity of the enzyme 5 alpha-reductase, which is at the origin of the activity of the hormon responsible for the production of sebum. To avoid the desquamation of the epidermis in its surface, it reinforces the water circuit and the water storing in the epidermis. At last, it limits the release of IL-6, the inflammation mediator and the substance P, a neuropeptide, that appear when sebum is produced, and, it improves cell respiration, that induces the elimination of toxins. Thanks to those actions, skin gets back its balance and its function: the general protection of body. A story - the Chinese peony, a famous symbol for peace and prosperity Paeonia lactiflora, Paeoniaceae The peony is a species so famous in China that many events are organized to celebrate this flower in all the country when it is blooming: exhibitions, meetings, etc. Born in Central and Eastern Asia it is a herbaceous plant that grows slowly in woods and meadows but that has been th century. Those emperors exhibited peonies in their gardens to anybody in the country. The traditional Chinese medicine considers that it has so many properties - its roots - that it is one of the most used medicine plants in China. Imported in Europe at the end of the 18th century, it has become an ornemental plant very popular till nowadays thanks to its many cultivars. Marketing claims - matifying and balancing Moisterizing, limits dryness of skin, oxygenating, relaunches skin metabolism, decreases the tone shining, especially on nose and forehead, reinforces the skin barrier, relaxing, soothing. To be introduced in products like cream, fluid, serum, balm, milk, foundation, concealer, etc. any colour cosmetic or skincare product dedicated to even tone of oily skins. naolys - copyright 2012 Efficacy - clinical study Assessment of the matifying effect by gloss Average data of corneometric values Sebum rateg/cm2) measurement (mean value of gloss degree) Untreated Treated Untreated Treated 5.1 4.2 62.7 75.3 77 47.3 223 62.2 68 3,7 43.7 235 243 238 230 56.2 60 220 52.2 31.9 200 187 190 180 0min 10min 4h 6h D0 D28 D30 D0 D14 D28 D42 D56 Effect on the shine till 6 hours Moisturizing effect after 28 days Effect on the sebum rate till 56 days - daily use - face after a single application - face of treatment - daily use: increase of corneometric values - face After 28 days of treatment – face : - 85% declare that their skin is less sensitive Study made on 25 women (from 20 to 65 years old) with oily skin (sebum assesment higher or equal to180 µg/cm2 – face). - 80% declare that the sensations of twinge are soothed Emulsion with 0.1% of Pure Light Chinese peony (powder). and that the sensations of uncomfort have decreased Efficacy - in vitro testing results Matifying effect: at 0.1%, 0.2% and 0.5% 16%, 20% and 23% compared with finasterid, that induces an inhibition of 38%. Substance P (pg/ml) IL-6 (pg/ml) 6.2 19 Effect on cell respiration: at 0.1%, 0.2% and 0.5% 89.3 210 16 14 4.1 14 12 - increase of the release of CO respectively by 3.7 14 170 2 63.7 5.3 2.9 134 156 144 51.2 47.7 45 17%, 22% and 26% in physiological conditions 14 - increase of the release of CO2 respectively by 20%, 28% and 31% in conditions of asphixia Negative Positive PLP PLP PLP Negative Positive PLP PLP PLP control control (0.1%) (0.2%) (0.5%) control control (0.1%) (0.2%) (0.5%) Capsaicin (UVB) +UVB +UVB +UVB Therefore there is a stimulation of cell metabolism Effect on the release of Effect on IL-6 through the metabolism of glucose. substance P Soothing effect: at 0.1%, 0.2% and 0.5% In reaction of UVB, decrease of the release of the mediator of inflammation, IL-6 respectively by 19%, 26% and 31%. [14CO ] released (Cpm) (pmol/min/mg protein) 2 Relaxing effect: at 0.1%, 0.2% and 0.5% 5 91 - inhibition of the liberation of substance P, respectively 2057 156 83.6 5.6 6.3 80 106 70.2 4.2 1700 by 20%, 25% and 29% compared with the untreated 7.1 67 64.3 110 1560 1670 51.8 1300 control - inhibition of the fixation of substance P on its receptor respectively by 17%, 21% and 24% compared with the Negative Postiive PLP PLP PLP Negative Positive PLP PLP PLP untreated control control control (0.1%) (0.2%) (0.5%) control control (0.1%)+ (0.2%)+ (0.5%)+ Finasterid (Asphixia) Asphixia Asphixia Asphixia Effect on 5 alpha-reductase Effect on respiration (asphixia) Moisturizing effect: at 0.1% - increase of water storing in the dehydrated epidermis by 28% at T0+15 min, and by 33% at T0+30 min - decrease of the trans-epidermic transfer of the tritiated water by 30% at T0+15min, by 25% at T0+30 min and by 22% at T0+60 min Technical information - Formulating Pure Light Chinese peony - INCI name of cells: paeonia lactiflora leaf cell extract - Form: cells in powder - Aspect: beige powder - Concentration: starting at 0.1% - Dispersible in any formulation.