Issue 03 2021 www.gpv.is

Fagradalsfjall! Kristín Morthens Axel Flóvent We Get Vík! News: To erupt or not to Art: Jump through the portal Music: He's back and here to Travel: Fun and frolick in the erupt? Make up your mind! to another dimension folk you up! rain #YesAllWeather

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REYKJAVÍK

VOLCANO

THE SLEEPING GIANT AWAKENS All eyes in Iceland, and around the world, are watching for when—or if—a volcano will erupt in Reykjanes. We break down what's happening, what could happen, and what the worst case scenario might look like COVER ART:

Photo by Art Bicnick taken on location close to Fagradalsfjall on March 7th, 2021.

08: VOLCANOS! VOLCANOS! 12-13: Erró's Raw Power 31: Eating In A Bus... 06: F*ckin Fourth Wave? 18: Axel 'The Folk King' 28: Eating Fresh Falafel... 06: Elton John, Iceland's Flóvent Speaks 27: Anthony Hoang Duy First New Lazarus 23: eSports eThrives Nguyen Talks Style EDITORIAL The Fire Within Us By the time you the next years and decades after. This built a good awwnd fair society based are reading this, does not have to be a negative factor, on education, and above all else, peace. the volcano in the but it will affect our daily lives. Art is highly appreciated here and we Fagradalsfjall’s Icelanders have always had a have incredibly talented artists in all volcano system in complicated relationship with their genres all over the world. Reykjanes might home country. Somehow, regardless of To summarise, Icelanders have a very well have where or when, Iceland always looms deep and respectful relationship with erupted. It will in the back of our minds. How should their country, nature, and heritage, and most likely not be a dangerous erup- we dress before we go out so we don’t this perhaps, above all else, reflects the tion and will potentially become one suffer from the coldness? How are the psyche of Icelanders in the best way. of our new famous tourism hotspots: roads? Are they passable? In a realistic In the past, we’ve used the difficul- A view that’s pleasant for the eye, but future, we might now have to check a ties of our country to our advantage— life-threatening if you get too close. gas forecast following the weather fore- creating one of the most prosperous Should that be the case, the eruption cast. Do we have to keep our kids inside and egalitarian societies in the world. could have very positive effects on the today? Is a gas mask a smart invest- So regardless of what happens now, economy, especially when the borders ment? Will I look like a psychopath Iceland will rebuild and find a new path open up again in May, as the govern- with a gas mask? Will our kids look like to success. ment has said will happen, but let’s see a northern European version of ‘Chil- So enjoy the fires—when they finally how that goes. Unfortunately, COVID- dren Of The Corn’? break out—and remember that the 19 is still looming and our progress in It sounds like there’s a high price to same fire burns inside all Icelanders, as the fight toward eradicating it from pay to live in such a beautiful country, well as those that love this harsh island Iceland could disappear quickly if we but for us, it’s not really. Don’t forget in the north. are not careful. that Icelanders are incredibly inven- That said, if and when the eruption tive and creative when it comes to solv- Valur Grettisson goes off in the Reykjanes peninsula, ing complicated situations. Icelanders Editor-in-chief scientists say that we will be entering were never better than after the finan- a 200 to 400 year period of unrest there cial crash in 2008. Before that, our and we will possibly—and very likely— small country was catapulted into the see more volcanoes in the area within 20th century by WW2 and subsequently

John Pearson is a Rey- Hannah Jane Cohen is Pollý is a hard-work- Shruthi Basappa is Catharine Fulton is a Art Bicnick is an Andie Sophia Fontaine Owen Tyrie is a young Valur Grettisson is kjavík resident who based out of Iceland ing journalist by day one of Iceland's most writer and editor who international man has lived in Iceland journo straight out of an award-winning combines writing with by way of New York. and an enthusiastic knowledgeable food- has been involved of mystery. He since 1999 and has Cheshire, England. Af- journalist, author professional back- She's known for her ball-catcher by ies. She's covered with the Grapevine moves like a shadow been reporting since ter studying journal- and playwright. He grounds in music, love of Willa Ford, night. A four-year-old local restaurants for for many years, from through the subcul- 2003. They were the ism for three years has been writing for broadcasting, scuba David Foster Wallace, dachshund mix with years and has also being our online tures and soirees first foreign-born in Leeds, he recently Icelandic media since diving, engineering and other such an IQ of a five-year- been involved in vari- news editor to sta$ of Reykjavík, never member of the moved to Reykjavík 2005. He was also a and underwater "intellectuals." Her old human, Pollý has ous food competi- journalist. She is still, o%en ghosting Icelandic Parliament, in order to pursue his theatre critic and photography. He loves visionary work is been the o#cial tions in Iceland, such now our beloved the scene in a pu$ an experience they dream of becom- one of the hosts of puns, alliteration and known for expand- Chief Of Morale at as Food & Fun and copywriter. Outside of blue smoke—the recommend for ing Icelandic. He’s a the cultural program, lists that have three ing the definitions of the Grapevine for more. By day, she of dealing with our exhaust fumes of the anyone who wants film fanatic, gaming 'Djöflaeyjan' at RÚV. things in them. emotion, introspec- eight months and is works as an architect writers turning in elusive, well-travelled to experience a enthusiast and most Valur is not to be tion, and above all a regular contribu- at Sei Studio. work late, she also Bicnick Mini. workplace where of all, ginger. Oh, and confused with the else, taste. Hannah is tor to the Grape- has two extremeley colleagues work tire- he loves tea. dreadful football club also the current Drag vine Newscast on cute kids. lessly to undermine that bears the same King of Iceland, HANS. YouTube. Woof. each other. name.

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In the Westfjords of Iceland, what we call “downtown” others might refer to as “the Arctic.” Call it what you will. We just live here. Shop at 66north.com Keeping Iceland warm since 1926 Follow us on Instagram @66north The Reykjavík Grapevine 4 First Issue 03— 2021

Geothermal plant in Svartsengi

at the time. At least one person, at What Are Icelanders the time of this writing, has since been diagnosed, having been in indirect contact with one of the Talking About? other cases. Worst of all, it seems at least one of those diagnosed All sound and fury attended a concert at Harpa. Fortu- nately, anyone who’s been in even THE HOME Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine Photos: Art Bicnick & Antonio Diaz passing contact with these folks has been put in quarantine and has NEWS The good news is: for a Nowadays, everybody wanna talk been tested. Another group infec- OF ICELANDIC while there we stopped like they got somethin' to say, but tion on the way? Possibly. Lifting talking about the coronavi- nothin' comes out when they move the restrictions this month? Not rus. The bad news is: we started their lips, just a bunch of gibberish, bloody likely. SEAFOOD talking about earthquakes and and Icelanders act like they forgot volcanoes. Starting with an earth- about the coronavirus. That’s On a lighter note, COVID-19 quake swarm that began on the right, after all a couple of weeks of vaccinations have been going AND LAMB Reykjanes peninsula on Febru- reporting “no new domestic cases well. At the time of this writing, ary 23rd, people were decidedly yesterday,” we began to grow smug 12,710 Icelanders have received a worried as tremors with a magni- and complacent. Conservatives full round of shots, with another APOTEK Kitchen+Bar is a casual-smart tude greater than 3 were shaking began calling out politicians for 16,607 awaiting their second doses. on a daily basis. Much speculation not lifting the current domestic Once they do, nearly 10% of the restaurant located in one of Reykjavíks was made as to whether a volcano pandemic restrictions. And then population will be fully vaccinated. most historical buildings. was about to erupt in the geologi- late in the first week of March, two According to the government's cally active region, summarily people tested positive and both schedule, everyone in Iceland We specialize in fresh seafood dismissed as pure conjecture. But of them were outside quarantine should be vaccinated by June. and local ingredients then on March 3rd, scientists measured strong indications prepared with a modern twist. that an eruption was on the way. Since then, magma movement has been detected, some of it as shal- low as one kilometre beneath the surface, but at the time of this writ- ing, there’s been no eruption. Not APOTEK KITCHEN+BAR Austurstræti 16 101 Reykjavík apotek.is to worry, though: even if it does happen, it will almost certainly be what is known as a “tourist volcano”—decidedly photogenic eruptions of lava spewing into the air, or slithering along the ground, but no ash cloud, and certainly not anywhere near any populated areas or important infrastructure. And seeing how conveniently close to the international airport it is, who knows? Maybe this will re-boot our flagging tourist industry. Do I still need this if I use lavender essential oil?

PUBLISHER LISTINGS DIRECTOR SALES DIRECTORS CONTACT US: magazine may be Hilmar Steinn Hannah Jane Cohen —» Editorial reproduced in whole Aðalsteinn or in part without the Grétarsson [email protected] Jörundsson +354 540 3600 [email protected] written permission Published by [email protected] [email protected] of the publishers. The COPY EDITOR —» Advertising Reykjavík Grapevine Fröken ehf. +354 540 3601 Helgi Þór Harðarson [email protected] Catharine Fulton [email protected] 354 540 3605 is distributed Hafnarstræti 15, [email protected] around Reykjavík, 101 Reykjavík —» Distribution Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, www.grapevine.is EDITOR-IN-CHIEF INTERN FOUNDERS Seyðisfjörður, & Subscriptions Borgarnes, Keflavík, [email protected] Valur Grettisson John Pearson Hilmar Steinn +354 540 3604 [email protected] johnpearson@ Grétarsson, Ísafjörður and grapevine.is distribution@ at key locations Member of the Hörður Kristbjörnsson, grapevine.is along road #1, and Icelandic Travel NEWS EDITOR Owen Tyrie all major tourist [email protected] Jón Trausti —» Press releases Industry Association Andie Sophia Fontaine Sigurðarson, attractions and www.saf.is andiesophia@ [email protected] tourist information grapevine.is CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Oddur Óskar centres in the Kjartansson, —» General Inquiries country. You may not Shruthi Basappa [email protected] like it, but at least Printed by Landsprent CULTURE EDITOR Valur Gunnarsson ehf. it's not sponsored Hannah Jane Cohen PHOTOGRAPHERS (no articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine [email protected] Hlynur Hólm Hauksson The Reykjavík are pay-for articles. Haraldur Guðjónsson The opinions PHOTO EDITOR Grapevine is Thors published 21 times expressed are the Art Bicnick Grétar Örn a year by Fröken writers’ own, not the [email protected] Guðmundsson ltd. Monthly from advertisers’). December through Peter Hartree February, and Vísir/Vilhelm fortnightly from March til October. Nothing in this NATURALLY PURE ICELANDIC LAMB – BEYOND COMPARE

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Enjoy the best we have to offer, Icelandic food – naturally. 6 The Reykjavík Grapevine First Issue 03— 2021

virus while outside quarantine, and are ASK A indirectly connected to a person who tested positive at second screening on March 4th. Contact tracing is also zero- Scientist ing in on a concert held at Harpa on March 5th. Q: What Effect Will On March 9th, it was further Rising Sea Levels Due reported that a pizza delivery driver To Climate Change for Pizzan in Kópavogur tested posi- tive, and all of their co-workers were Have On Iceland? subsequently put into quarantine. This driver was making deliveries over the weekend before their diagnosis.

Act now

Chief epidemiologist Þórólfur Guðna- son declined to say definitively whether or not a fourth wave was on its way. He did say, however, that this recent spate of infections was proof that following guidelines, both domestically and at the border, is the key to eradicating the virus from Iceland. As it stands now, domestic restric- POV: You're getting screened tions are scheduled to be relaxed Global warming is on everyone’s mind; summers are getting hotter, glaciers are melting and greenhouse gases are filling the skies with smog. Living on a rock in the North Atlantic makes A Fourth Wave? That Depends you feel relatively untouchable by the New infections raise concerns and questions chaos across the world but one day NEWS the seas will rise and Iceland will be hit hard. We asked Halldór Björnsson Words: Two new domestic COVID-19 cases night shift, and was working over the slightly on March 17th. With this latest of the Icelandic Meteorological O"ce how he thinks rising sea levels will af- Andie Sophia were detected on March 8th, according weekend before they tested positive. outbreak, this is now increasingly fect the country. Fontaine to the latest data from covid.is. Both of Due to the nature of their work, they unlikely. Þórólfur emphasised the them were outside quarantine at the had little to no contact with customers importance of acting quickly to contain “Iceland is rising rapidly in some loca- time of diagnosis. and the entire store has been sanitised. the spread before a fourth wave has a Photo: tions which affects the relative sea One of those diagnosed was an chance to form. Vísir/Vilhelm level change. In some locations, es- employee of the grocery store Hagkaup And then it spread pecially along the south east coast of in Garðabær, Vísir reports. This person Iceland the rate of rise is so fast that worked stocking items during the Two people were diagnosed with the it is doubtful that these locations will experience any sea level rise. LOST IN GOOGLE TRANSLATION How much sea level will increase there depends on several things, such as the warming of the ocean, the melt Sir Elton Is Dead! of glaciers and icesheets (in Greenland and Antarctica) and changes Long Live Sir to the gravitational field due to the ice melt. The last item is quite surprising to many, but the current size (and mass) Elton! of say the Greenland icesheet a$ects gravity around it in such a way that it When the team at for Pinner’s premier keeps sea level higher than otherwise. Grapevine Towers piano-man, Valur Once the icesheet melts this effect read on mbl.is that had donned his diminishes with the effect that sea Sir Elton John had black suit (with level may drop close to the ice sheet, died, the well-lubri- Pollý in matching but rise more elsewhere.” OT ° cated VineMachine harness) ready to sprang into an im- cast the devastat- mediate response. ing news to the That girl doesn’t found themselves that Sir Elton’s life ever the expres- going to cut it Just imagine the world, and culture hang about. all adrenalined-up hadn’t sputtered sion “Elton John some slack. It’s try- Mighty Morphin editor Hannah Jane with nowhere to out like… erm… well, hefur lést” could be ing hard, a%er all. Power Rangers, but had organised a When we realised go. So following a like a candle in the taken to mean both wearing plastic gala extravaganza that this news was brisk jog around wind. “Elton John has lost Anyway, thankfully viking helmets. tribute perfor- simply a Goog- the block to shake weight” and “Elton the Rocket Man is mance of ‘Goodbye leGa$e™—yet it o$, the rest of What had actually John has died”—at still on earth, he’s Before you could Yellow Brick Road’— another mistransla- the day was spent happened to Elton least to the linguis- just hefur lést (or say “Nikita,” news all four sides of tion by the world’s blasting "Candle In was that he had tically naïve—and a little less he%y). editor Andie had the vinyl, starring favourite language- The Wind" on the of- lost weight; noth- that includes the He’s Still Standing. turned out an herself—with tick- mangling tech- fice stereo and wal- ing more dramatic GoogleBot. So on Yeah Yeah Yeah! eloquent obituary ets already on sale. giant—Team ‘Vine lowing in the relief than that. How- this occasion we’re JP

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shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is* shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.isDon't Hesitate! Act Now! * You only need to type the URL in once 7 The Reykjavík Grapevine First Issue 03— 2021 GODS OF ICELAND However, Mimir didn’t fancy giving lots of advice to the Vanir and often, when asked for his advice, would GRAPEVINE respond with “Let others decide.” This spelled certain doom for our man Mímir, as the Vanir thought that PLAYLIST Óðinn had duped them by not sending the smartest man in all the realms, but merely giving them a careless old dude who comprise pop duo EYJAA. Their debut with seemingly nothing left to live for. single, “Don’t Forget And who could blame them? They were About Me”, is a sunny, dealing with Óðinn, notorious master bouncy, happy-happy pop song that’ll make of betrayal, after all. you long for the days The Vanir subsequently took it upon of summer where you themselves to seize Mímir, cut off his could lay outside in a bathing suit and head and send it to Óðinn. So you could Krummi - Naglar og salt sip green juice or say that Mímir would not beheading The moment this something equally back to Vanaheimr any time soon. song began playing in aspirational. Tbh, I the Grapevine o#ce, thought the song our journalists looked was fine until I went Well ackshually… down and found their to lunch and began hands covered in subconsciously humming the Don't get ahead of yourself, dweeb For most people, this would be where well-worked calluses and arms in that background vocals the story ends. However, we are dealing ropey sort of muscle the whole time. So Words: with immortal gods who are capable of you only get from yes, it’s a certified doing a hard day’s earworm. HJC Owen Tyrie using black magic to bend the universe work. At the same Mímir, Bodyless Brainiac to their will. So upon receiving Mímir’s time, our wives le% Photo: head, Óðinn used some magical herbs us for oil barons, the newspaper factory Adobe Stock You bet his Reddit Karma score is and sang to Mímir to bring him (or called to say they rather, his head) back from the dead. were closing down, hi!her than Ás!arður Wonder what song he sang… “Staying and there was naught to do but sit on our Alive” perhaps? “Get’Cha Head In The distribution tractors Superpowers: Upon receiving the task of writing sil, better known as the Tree of Life. Game”? and think about what Fríd - Woods Astonishingly about one of the many gods of Iceland, He was known as the wisest of all the Over the next aeons, Óðinn kept must be done on the morrow. We’d have Fríd’s got an clever, very I was tempted to be as basic as basic Æsir, so it was here that many of the Mímir’s head close by, seeking coun- interesting portable to rebuild the paper can be in selecting my deity. Þór would gods would turn up for advice on which sel from him as he used to back when from hand, thinking dichotomy—her lyrics and melody have been an easy one, same with realm to screw over next, and which Mimir had two legs to stand on. The only of our lost loves Weaknesses: and accompanied could easily place Lack of body, being someone like Loki. random mortal needed knocking up. great and mighty Óðinn would even only by this Utah her in the tragic a bit of a pushover, It was during the war between Æsir go on to put his own eye in Mímir’s Phillips cover. ‘Tis the love and loss singer/ songwriter category being not smart and Vanir—which would make a great aforementioned well-home, believing life for a cowboy. HJC enough to avoid But no, that’s not how I roll (“She scurried away, movie or TV show—that Mimir’s fate that the waters would give him divine way into the woods weird prison In all of my wisdom (of which there is was revealed. Tiring of endless war, the knowledge. That’s one way to keep an on the run from time/ exchanges She felt her wrinkles little), I went out of my way to pick a two races of Gods decided to establish eye on all of Ásgarður. forming/She must be Modern Analogue: God that doesn’t have its own movie a truce and hostages were exchanged Well, here’s a heads up now because gone for morning”), That guy on or upcoming TV show. So I bring to between the two sides; Njörðr and his I’m afraid we are heading to the end of while her unexpected low key trap and Reddit who knows you Mímir, the god of wisdom and son Freyr were given to the Æsir, while Mímir’s story, as very little is known everything about extreme autotune everything, has Ásgarður’s true 200IQ Reddit user. the Vanir received Mímir and Hœnir. about what happened to him after pull her into that late-night comedown 10 PhDs but still Upon their arrival in the Vanir he became Odin’s magic eight-ball of Ólafur Arnalds – Spiral – Sunrise party vibe. HJC gets roasted by homeworld of Vanaheimr, Mímir was sorts. So perhaps it’s best if I stop writ- u/MímirKnowsBest Session everyone in the appointed to give counsel due to the ing here before I get… ahead of myself. Ólafur chose the comments Mímir was a water spirit who resided fact that Óðinn told the Vanir that Sorry, couldn’t resist. shortest day of the year for these by a well at the bottom of the Yggdra- he was the smartest of all the Gods. newly-released live sessions, highlighting the idea of a global sunrise; hope for a JUST SAYINGS coming post-COVID

dawn. The dizzying Possimiste - helix of the track’s intertwining strings Paradise and piano, reaching Hallelujah! Possimiste endlessly upwards, has apparently will be familiar created this sparse, “Rúsínan í to fans from the boomy, bluesy, grimey album. But the feel gem to soundtrack of musicians playing our journey to the live—together, in a promised land. room—reinforces the Shades of Karin Pylsuendanum” sense of imminent Dreijer and Lykke COVID-conclusion. JP Li abound here; perhaps Paradise is Ever had a hot dog filled with raisins? by Danish poet Christian Winther, which somewhere Nordic. Doesn’t sound good, does it? Still, we won’t mention because we don’t Let’s hope so. With the Icelanders have the saying “Rúsínan want to give any Dane free publicity. land to the southwest of Grapevine’s o#ces í Pylsuendanum,” which translates to Anyway, for some maddening reason, about to belch “the raisins in the tail of a hot dog.” It’s ages ago they used to put a raisin at the hot gas—and the sort of a vague way to describe some- end of black pudding sausages, which ground beneath us rumbling—we might thing good or unexpected, and like those savages thought was a sign of true be making that everything that doesn’t make sense or culinary prowess. Apparently, this was EYJAA - Don’t Forget journey sooner than is just plain stupid, we got it from the an unexpectedly great thing—hence the About Me we had planned. So it Cute stu$!! Say hello would be nice not to Danes—our former oppressors. More saying. VG to sisters Brynja Mary have to go too far. But specifically, it was adopted from a poem Sverrisdottir and Sara what a tune to take In 1,000 years, this photo will be studied as the pinnacle of art Victoria Sverrisdottir, us there!. JP

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The Sleeping Giant: Earthquakes And Volcanoes In Reykjanes From the current situation to worst case scenarios Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine Photos: Art Bicnick

By the time you read this, a volcano may have erupted in Reykjanes, Iceland’s in mind, and the safest place you can southwestern peninsula and the home be in Iceland during an earthquake is of the Keflavík International Airport. janes’ many volcanoes. At the time, indoors—but more in terms of what It’s also possible that the magma How active are we there were grave concerns that an these events could precede. currently moving under the surface of talking about? eruption was imminent, but ultimately On March 3rd, scientists announced the Earth has retreated, or that it’s still nothing came of it and, after a week or that it was increasingly likely that a moving but hasn’t breached the surface First time arrivals to Iceland almost so, the volcano fell off the radar. While volcanic eruption was on the way. This yet. At this point, all we have are best always disembark at Keflavík Inter- Mount Þorbjörn is no longer in the was based on GPS measurements and estimates. That’s just the nature of the national Airport, and then drive or current discussion, Reykjanes certainly other data points that indicated magma science of earthquakes and volcanoes. take the bus on to Reykjavík. Along is. was moving very quickly beneath While all of Iceland is geologically the way, the first thing you notice are the surface of the Earth in relatively active, this is a story about Reykjanes, the immense lava fields which stretch How it kicked off the same area the earthquakes were whose name literally means “smok- all the way to the horizon. You’d be centered. ing peninsula”, if that gives you any forgiven for thinking that this lava In the early morning hours of Febru- Iceland’s earth scientists are indication of just how active the area only cooled down moments ago for ary 23rd, a 4.3 magnitude quake 7km normally very reluctant to speculate is. Here, we examine a timeline that how fresh it appears, and geologically beneath the surface and 3.6km east on the possibility of a volcanic erup- begins on February 23rd, when a series speaking, it is quite fresh. The area is of Fagradalsfjall struck. This was tion, even in the midst of an earthquake of significant earthquakes began to fed by five volcanic systems—striking followed seconds later by a 5.7 quake swarm, so just the fact that they were ripple through the area, culminating considering its relatively small size— near Keilir. Since then, earthquakes of using language such as “increasingly in the first signs, on March 3rd, that a and much of the lava we see there today a magnitude of 3 or greater have been likely” drew international attention. volcanic eruption may be on the way. came from the notorious Reykjanes a daily occurence. Reykjanes is geologi- From here, we’ll look at best case—and Fires, which lasted from the 10th to the cally active relative to the rest of the The quiet science worst case—scenarios. The good news 12th century. In fact, between 1210 and country, but the size and frequency (until it isn’t) is there’s little to worry about. The bad 1240, some 50 square kilometres of this of these quakes has raised concerns news is things are still up in the air; at region was covered in lava. nonetheless. Not so much in terms of The science of earthquakes and volca- least, at the time of this writing. The first indications that we were devastation—Icelandic infrastructure, noes is normally a quiet affair, some entering a new period of instability including homes and buildings, are might even say repetitive, the vast arguably began in January 2020, when famously designed with earthquakes majority of the time. This sentiment a swarm of earthquakes were measured was echoed by Baldur Bergsson, a around Mount Þorbjörn, one of Reyk- specialist in monitoring at the Icelan- 9 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 03— 2021

lasting eruption—which we can have on the Reykjanes peninsula, we've had eruptions there that have lasted many dic Met Office, when the Grapevine Kristín Jónsdóttir, earthquake hazards months, years and even decades— tagged along with him to Reykjanes coordinator at the Icelandic Met Office, depending on your position relative to in July 2020. told Grapevine’s Reykjavík Newscast the event, that may cause major prob- “My first project was to map out the on March 4th, the day after scientists lems. Then again, the likelihood of gas-emitting areas around Hekla, and announced an eruption was now more such events happening in our lifetime I don’t know how many hours I spent likely. “It's essentially cracks opening is very, very small." at this,” Baldur recalled. “Putting an and the magma coming up. There's very the lava comes up relative to populated When asked about how an eruption instrument on the ground, waiting a little ash. The good thing about this areas or important infrastructure. could affect drinking water or geother- minute and a half, picking it up and scenario is that, what we've seen so In a nutshell, we use the worst case mal energy—which relies on under- walking ten steps, and doing it again. far, is that they're far from the roads scenario to make sure we have the right ground water heated by magma to turn But now we know where the gas-emit- and far from the populated areas. So response to ensure everyone's safety." turbines—Kristín also assuaged fears. ting places are. It just took 22 trips to if we model the system of the magma "I think all the scientists are looking the summit of Hekla.” flowing, it is not going to reach the It’s a gas into this,” she said. “Right now, there Most of his job entails exactly that: populated areas and it's not going to isn't a great concern about this. The laying down instruments, taking reach the roads. As the situation is now, Of course, lava is not the only danger main drinking water does not come measurements, and submitting them from our modelling, this is what we that can arise from an eruption. They from this area." to the general data base. presume." also release toxic gases, especially “It’s a lot of repetition,” he said with Þor valdur Þórðar son, a professor sulphur dioxide, also called SO2. How can we know? a laugh. “But that’s science. These of volcanology and petrology at the "For populated areas around the readings will probably give the same University of Iceland, echoed these region where a possible eruption Despite lurid headlines that you might results as last week, but we’ll never sentiments in a separate interview with could occur, we do not need to worry see elsewhere—such as any particu- know unless we try, again and again the Grapevine, when asked how scien- [about gas] in particular,” Kristín told lar volcano being “overdue” for an and again.” tists determine just how dangerous an us. “From our modelling—and again, eruption—volcano science is still in eruption may or may not be. we are using the models based on the large part based on history, predictive Not so quiet anymore "We use a lot of different tools best knowledge of what kinds of erup- models and best estimations. Even for that,” he said. “First of all, we use tions we can expect in the area, and with all of our advanced technology, As readers are aware, the situation is geological history and our knowledge our knowledge from previous erup- knowing when a volcano may erupt is anything but boring right now. The of previous events. When we look at tions—the gas we are concerned about still not exactly pinpoint accurate. How earthquakes and possible eruption in any one area, we think in terms of is SO2 [sulphur dioxide]. It's not very come? Reykjanes have made international worst case scenarios. When we know nice. It can hurt a bit in the throat. The Þorvaldur uses meteorology as a headlines, and many people have been that, we start to think about 'OK, what concentrations we can expect here will comparison. He points out that study- deeply concerned about what this could measures do we need to put in place not be that dense, and also where we ing the weather began centuries ago, mean. Eyjafjallajökull is still fresh to make sure that people are safe? And are farther away from the lava, it gets but that the first weather map wasn’t in people’s minds, a volcano which what measures can we put in place in diluted. So the most probable scenario published until the late 19th century. erupted and began to spew a gigan- terms of response?'" is that there will be days where this will This developed into weather forecasts tic ash cloud into the atmosphere in Þorvaldur cited the eruption of be annoying. People with underlying in the 20th century, but it wasn’t until March 2010, crippling air traffic across Öræfajökull, describing it as a very conditions, such as asthma, will have the late 20th century that we even the European continent. For the record, explosive eruption. "If you're there, to take care of themselves. Importantly, began to be able to accurately predict, there is no danger of that happening if you don't have any response time. So the Icelandic Met Office will show gas to the minute, when a storm might an eruption happens in Reykjanes—the our assessment in that case is, if you pollution forecasts. It depends on the touch down in a particular area. peninsula tends to have effusive erup- suspect there's an eruption imminent, wind. We'll just have to take it one day "What we try to do in the field of tions; mostly lava plumes but very little you evacuate the whole place and at a time." volcanology is a similar thing; to be ash—and there are a few things we can get everyone to safety. That's quite "For an average eruption of an able to forecast eruptions,” he says. “We safely predict about what an eruption a dramatic and drastic measure, but average duration, the level of pollu- started trying to do that in the early in the area would look like. that's the best we can do at the moment tion could [become] uncomfortable years of the 20th century, so we've only "The volcanic systems here on the anyway. for people,” Þorvaldur told the Grape- been able to work on this for just over Reykjanes peninsula, the eruptions in "In Reykjanes, it's quite different, vine. “For a big eruption, it may reach 100 years. We don't have daily observa- these systems are fissure eruptions,” because we know from the history of a level where you would have to react to tions, because volcanoes are not erupt- eruptions here that most of those erup- it and move people away from the area. ing daily. We get very few events that tions are fairly moderate in size, and Gas pollution is an issue, but how big we can actually observe. We have to use "For us, they're mostly effusive, or lava-produc- of an issue it is really depends on the remote sensing techniques, using tools ing, eruptions. Our main concern there scenario, and if you have a very long that will hopefully give us information it's a very is not the explosive activity but the lava on what's happening in the Earth." flow activity. We need to know how It’s a bit like trying to measure the long period much time we have in a lava flow crisis movement of clouds based on second- and that, of course, depends on where ary data. of time. "Earthquakes are not property of the magma,” Þorvaldur continues. “They're For the a consequence of a stress build up in the crust. We don't see the magma move. volcano, You can see the clouds move, and we try it's an to do the same thing [with magma], but with far less clarity. That's one of the instant." reasons why we haven't yet gotten to the point where we can forecast or even predict volcanic eruptions. Each erup- tion, which is basically our laboratory, 10 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 03— 2021

"The experience can be unnerving, because it's not something you can do anything about and the scenario is we would get a very strong whole earth is shaking, fountaining eruption at the very begin- ning, which would produce lava flows but there's basically that would move at very high speeds downslope, on the order of 30 to 60 nothing to worry about." is very useful for that purpose. That's kilometres per hour. In that case, if you why we want to learn as much as we can look at the peninsula, the distance from collapse. You might see some fractures has to be an integrated thing. Remote from each event. We'd like to be able to an eruption site to a populated area is in some buildings, but total collapse of sensing might play a very important have such exercises every day, but it's on the order of five to 15 kilometres. The buildings is not something we expect to role in that, especially when we can not possible, because nature doesn't response time then would be around see. The experience can be unnerving, get better at looking at deformation work on that timescale." one to three hours. If you take an aver- because it's not something you can do using satellite based observations. I Another thing to bear in mind are age eruption, the response time would anything about and the whole earth is think satellite measurements, in the the massive timescales we’re dealing be three to ten days or so. But the worst shaking, but there's basically nothing end, might be the key to reliable erup- with when it comes to volcanoes. case scenario I'm describing would be to worry about." tion predictions, just like they've been "The timescales of individual a very unusual event. However, even To Rögnvaldur, this is all a part of the key to reliable weather forecasts." systems are different,” Þorvaldur says. in those cases we would have time to the job. One would expect that for a geologi- “Hekla erupts very often. Volcanoes on respond. That's the important thing. "Basically when you break it down, cally active island nation like Iceland the Reykjanes peninsula go into this You may not be able to save a lot of your it's the same situation,” he said. “You that earth scientists would have all the stage of unrest and eruption every 800 things, but you would definitely be able can even compare it to what we do money they need. When asked if this years or so, and that period can last to get away from it." regarding COVID-19. We're quite used was the case, Þorvaldur was quite clear. some 200 to 400 years. It's episodic. So we would have plenty of time to to dealing with situations like this. "Oh, absolutely not. We never get It's not a constant unrest. You can have evacuate people from an eruption area But of course, it's always a challenge enough funding,” he told the Grape- a period of unrest that lasts for a few in Reykjanes. But where would these [to have this possible eruption site] vine. “Of course we want more money! months and then it calms down, and people go? close to the largest populated area in The truth is, and it's sad to say as it's you repeat that over a period of two or "It's very unlikely that a fissure will Iceland. But we haven't seen anything true for many other places as well, three decades, and then it goes quiet open up and cut off all roads,” he says. in the modelling or predictions that science is generally underfunded. We for 70 or 80 years, and then it picks up “There would always be route out. You are great cause for concern. Just like appreciate the things that we get and again." may have to go the long way around with COVID-19, as soon as we know we are generally not complaining too "For us, it's a very long period of in some cases, and maybe go to Kefla- something we give that information to much, but I think society would benefit time,” he points out. “For the volcano, vík and that area. Lava is never going the public. So you don't have to worry from investing in scientific research in it's an instant. It's on a totally differ- to go there. That would be an erup- that there's something we're not telling general because it is the cheapest way ent timescale. It's both fascinating and tion of dimensions that we have never you." of preventing harmful things that may difficult to grasp, this long timescale. seen in Iceland. Let's say you were in affect us." Especially when volcanoes, when they Vogar or Grindavík, and you get cut Fund your scientists! Surely members of parliament actually kick in, then they switch gears off from going towards Reykjavík, you would want to make sure that volca- and everything is happening one-two- can always go towards Keflavík and you As the situation is now, Kristín says, nologists have all the money we need, three. When the processes kick in, would be safe over there. Of course, we’re all doing our best with what we right? there are processes happening over we can't rule out that we would have have. "Absolutely,” Þorvaldur says. “Earth milliseconds to determine if you're a megaeruption on the peninsula, but "There's a lot of uncertainty at this sciences in general and volcanology going to have an explosion eruption or that's very, very unlikely. Even then, you moment,” she told the Newscast. “We in particular have been struggling to an effusion eruption. This is the chal- would have boats to get everyone out." have to follow the data and make sense get funding over the last five years. lenge of studying volcanoes." of what's happening. We are doing There's many different reasons for Never fear, Civic our best to include the best scientists that, and one important part of that What’s the worst that Protection is here to work on this and come up with a is how they set up who gets funded or could happen? consensus of the most likely scenarios. not and another part is that we haven't Rögnvaldur Ólafsson, spokesperson for But we just have to wait and see." looked well enough after our own inter- Despite assurances from Kristín and the Department of Civil Protection and For his part, Þorvaldur believes the ests. There's always two sides to every- Þorvaldur that if an eruption happens, Emergency Management, is a part of science of volcano prediction will only thing. [The current situation] is a good it will very likely not be a devastating the team that would be key to these get better. exercise for us in the response time, event, Þorvaldur was nonetheless quite evacuations. In the same Reykjavík "We have to integrate systems that but is also a good reminder for the willing to discuss what the worst case Newscast where we spoke with Kristín, are measuring the geophysical side community that lives in the Reykjanes scenario for a Reykjanes eruption could Rögnvaldur was optimistic. of things, with petrological measure- peninsula that they do live on an active be. "I think we're pretty safe,” he said. ments, along with volcanological volcano, and you should take that into “In terms of danger to the popu- “We have good modelling and we know measurements and data,” he told us. “It account when you're planning things." lation, let's just make an assumption what we're dealing with. We know what All this being the case, perhaps the that we have an eruption site where kinds of eruptions we can have and current situation will remind those if lava comes up it will flow towards a roughly where. All the infrastructure holding the purse strings that the earth populated area,” he says. “In terms of is designed to withstand these kinds of sciences in Iceland are crucial to our Reykjanes peninsula, the worst case quakes. We do not expect buildings to survival. However the current situa- tion plays out, that much should be abundantly clear by now. Find today's events in Iceland! Download our free listings app - APPENING on the Apple and Android stores

CULTURE NEWS

LOL: Loft Out Loud

Lofty Ambitions Comedy Night

March 18th & April 1st - 20:00 - Loft Hostel - Free!

Finally, a new comedy night! Yipee! While 2020 had us dying for laughter (and a vaccine), 2021 is here with some actual giggles (and vaccines). Anyway, this twice-a-month comedy series will feature a rotating roster of comedians trying out some longer material for upcoming solo shows. There are limited seats, so make sure to show up early. HJC

Dýrfinna Benita Basalan, Reykjavík's resident SpiderWoman

“I started thinking about the gen- Info dering of things, like the spear and We <3 Piano Sadboys penetration, and from there I started 'Yes, a falling tree Feminist Queer to think about insects,” Dýrfinna says. Magnús Jóhann Release Concert makes a sound “The spider has always been this femi- (and it has a lot nine creature. Like when you think March 12th - 20:30 - Harpa - 3,900 ISK to say)’ will be at Insect AI Fantasies about the Black Widow, you think of Kling & Bang from Seriously, just !o see ‘Yes, a fallin! tree makes a sound a female who has sex with a male and ‘Without Listening’ by Magnús March 27th to May then kills it.” 9th. (and it has a lot to say)’ Jóhann was one of those This led Dýrfinna to re-evaluate her constantly-on-repeat-at-the- own personal relationship with insects, Grapevine-office albums in 2020. The idea of science fiction as a tool sations of marginalised identities. which has always walked the line be- Meandering through a murky area Words: for social progression isn’t a new one. tween friends and enemies. “I used between post-classical, Hannah Jane For what did ‘Frankenstein’ do if not Goodbye CEOs, hello aliens to give spiders names and carry them improvisational jazz and dark Cohen criticise the needless discrimination around like friends,” she says, laugh- electronica, you could perhaps call and unbridled hubris of mankind? The French-Arab artist and poet Tarek ing. “But then, I have also been eaten his effort “genre-fluid.” Magnús has Feature photo: art of science fiction has oft been a pro- Lakhrissi will present his first short alive from the inside by worms. I had a deft understanding of sound, Art Bicnick gressive one, with creators imagining sci-fi film, which is entitled ‘Out of the parasites and I was hospitalised.” transitions and how you can meld a new reality, often a more egalitarian Blue’ at the exhibition. To actualise this dichotomy, Dýr- them together into endless forms. one, and sharing that vision with the “The starting point was to imagine finna’s been welding her own spider Now he’s finally here with his world. a world where queer people of colour web as well as small sculptures and long-awaited release concert, and Curated by Helena Aðalsteinsdóttir, were at the centre,” Tarek told the drawings that will, as she emphasises, so are we. HJC Kling & Bang’s new exhibition ‘Yes, a Grapevine—digitally, as is the custom “infest” the rest of the gallery space. falling tree makes a sound (and it has in these times. “From there, I imag- “Infestation is a very vague word, it a lot to say)’ takes this concept into ev- ined this whole scenario where aliens just means everywhere,” she concludes. ery conceivable lightyear, presenting are kidnapping all the big CEOs in the “It’s been really intuitive.” ” a series of works inspired by feminist world. I like thinking about sci-fi as a science fiction. Artists showcase rei- place for fantasy, but also queer fabula- magined futures, rewrite patriarchal tion, radical imagination and humour.” Bread & porn narratives and offer artistic recentrali- Tarek’s fascination with fantasy Intuitivity was also the base for Bro- came from horror books and shows kat Films’ contribution. The duo be- when he was a teenager, like ‘Buffy hind it—Sasa Lubińska and Joanna the Vampire Slayer’, ‘Charmed’ and Pawłowska—will exhibit a video art ‘X-Men’. “I was deeply touched by the piece, an installation and a video game. Ich Bin Ein Film-iner connection and disconnection between Brokat’s game is a choose-your- the real world and futurist and super- own-adventure enterprise. “Joanna did German Film Days natural worlds,” he continues. He later the script. You know those games with began to consume authors like Ursula the flat characters on a flat background March 12th-21st - Bíó Paradís Le Guin, Samuel Delany and the phi- with text?” Sasa asks. “It’s used mostly losopher José Esteban Munoz, which for romance games.” She laughs. “There Bíó Paradís in collaboration with sparked his future obsession with lan- was only one game of this genre that I the Goethe-Institut Dänemark and guage. played and it was gay porn.” the German Embassy in Iceland is “Language is a powerful and politi- Joanna smiles. “I remember playing back with German Film Days. The cal tool,” he explains. “As a French Arab those games in Poland as a teenager. It lineup of the festival is spectacular, who grew up in a working-class family, was the time in my life when my sexu- but we’re particularly excited to Brokat Films, probably talking about Raëlism I find power and freedom in the articu- ality started to blossom, so it was very see ‘Futur Drei’ (‘No Hard Feelings’), lation of language, feelings, theory and exciting,” she explains. “We're return- a story about a young German/ community-building. Creating new ing to that time. It’s putting characters Iranian queer who falls in love with narratives is, of course, a political act: in these everyday situations—they go a refugee. We’d also recommend I want to be seen, heard and I want to to the bakery to buy bread, to a party, ‘Als Hitler das rosa Kaninchen stahl’, define myself with my own words.” from planet to planet and then meet (‘When Hitler Stole Pink Rabbit’), aliens. You know, life as it is.” which describes author Judith “Brokat is just expressing ourselves,” Kerr's family's escape from the Welcome the insects! Joanna concludes. “So the exhibition Nazis. This might be a particularly For Dýrfinna Benita Basalan, the clicked very well because Brokat films nice film to see considering exhibition was also a chance to define is, at its core, our own planet, our own Yom HaShoah (the holocaust herself. But moreover, it was a chance space—a safe space—where we can be remembrance day) starts on April to redefine herself and put her tri- who we are and enjoy it fully.” 7th this year. HJC Tarek Lakhrissi's 'Out of the Blue'. umphs and traumas into a new light— Courtesy of the artist and VITRINE London/Basel. or a new being. The Reykjavík Grapevine 12 Culture Issue 03— 2021 Get Grapevine Merch!

VOLCANO COLLECTION

Lukas Bury's 'Lithuania, My Fatherland!"

This appropriation by other cul- tures—and Erró’s absence from The Raw Power Of Iceland for most of his life—have perhaps tended to foster the per- ception of a remove between the Pop Baroque artist and his homeland. “I never felt that the separa- tion was at his request,” says Erró's energy flows through Icelandic Birgir. “I mean, he regularly gives his works to the City of Reykjavík. art in a new exhibition When the decision was made to house his archive here and have a Words: John Pearson Photos: Art Bicnick permanent show, maybe the sep- arateness comes from that. May- The name Erró is often followed the Atlantic to find himself ap- be it’s because mixing him with by the phrase “Iceland’s most propriated by European creative other artists was never an option, famous artist,” a custom which culture, eventually becoming sub- until now.” can leave the uninitiated perhaps sumed by French art history while The chance for ‘Raw Power’ feeling a little under-informed, or residing in Paris. arose when the museum an- even philistine. For Erró’s work Birgir Snæbjörn Birgisson— nounced similar shows focussing isn’t given the unmissable civic Reykjavík artist, and erstwhile on Icelandic painter Jóhannes S. prominence awarded, say, to Miró technician at the Reykjavík Art Kjarval, and Icelandic sculptor or Gaudí by Catalonia. Museum—curated ‘Raw Power’ Ásmundur Sveinsson. The Erró Thankfully the Reykjavík Art at the request exhibit completes Museum is perfectly placed to of his former this triptych. bring the unenlightended into employer. He re- “I had pointed Erró’s warm glow, given that it members being “I think Erró has out the idea be- possesses over four thousand lectured on Erró influenced us hind ‘Raw Power’ pieces of his work. The newly- when he was an to the museum opened ‘Raw Power’ exhibit dis- art student in all, even though a few times, and shop.grapevine.is plays a selection of these along- France. I'm not the only side work from 15 other Icelandic “I was study- we don't want to one,” Birgir points artists, encouraging the viewer to ing in Stras- admit it." out. “Hopefully shop.grapevine.is draw comparisons, discover con- bourg at the this exhibition nections and witness Erro’s influ- time,” he recalls. will open up the shop.grapevine.is ence on the collective creativity of ”They were covering the French chance for more Erró shows tack- his native culture. art scene, and Erró was men- ling narrower themes, such as shop.grapevine.is tioned. By chance, the professor politics.” remembered that I was in the Physically separate, class, and pointed out to the class shop.grapevine.is creatively connected that actually Erró was Icelandic. Iggy Pop art Erró left Iceland as a young man And that told me how embedded The show is named after a small shop.grapevine.is* to study art, eventually relocat- he was in the French art scene.” post-pop-art collage produced ing to New York in 1964 where he Art philosopher Arthur Danto by Erró in 2009, featuring an ap- Don't Hesitate! befriended pop-artists Roy Lich- once described Erró as “bring- propriated cartoon depiction of Act Now! tenstein and Andy Warhol, and ing pop art into its flamboyant Detroit musician Iggy Pop. Fit- * You only need to type the URL in once began to develop his own style baroque,” a description which tingly then, the title of the exhi- of painted collage appropriation. further cemented his place in the bition is itself an appropriation. Later on, he ventured back across continental European tradition. ‘Raw Power' is the title of the The Reykjavík Grapevine 13 Issue 03— 2021 third album released in 1973 by intestines laid bare by Erró. portrait ‘Lithuania, My Father- Iggy and his band, The Stooges, a Seafood is one of Iceland’s cul- land!’ sees him dressed in a tradi- record that was hugely influential tural touchstones and, in addition tional Icelandic sweater, surveying on punk and in the lyrics of which to Þórdís’ shrimps, fishy motifs an Icelandic landscape. Iggy famously claimed the title are repeated around the room. The title, etched into the paint- "world's forgotten boy". It was Kurt Pieces by Helgi Þorgils Friðjóns- ing in Polish, is from a 19th cen- Cobain’s favourite album—a love son and Arngrímur Sigurðsson— tury poem by Adam Mickiewicz. shared by Birgir. depicting blue lobsters and cepha- The poem touches on the notion “It didn't start with the title, of lophilia, respectively—both echo of national borders—and identi- course, but the title came soon and the cycle of human and piscine ties—shifting due to politics and it hit the tone,” he reflects. “Power death portrayed in Erró’s painting conflict. Mickiewicz considered is something I'd say that we all ‘Green Mother’. himself to be Lithuanian, but from relate to when we think of Erró’s a modern perspective he would be Weekend work, and the rawness is maybe Belarusian. the extra spice to it.” Icelandic diaspora “But then Mickiewicz wrote in Reflecting the idea of an Icelan- Polish,” Lukas expands, “and he dic creative diaspora, a couple of is a national poet of all of those Juxtaposed with Erró decades ago Icelandic artist Sara countries. So already his artistic The work of the fifteen chosen art- Riel went to Germany. ‘Maus- identity is pretty complex.” ists in Raw Power is interspersed frau’—one of her contributions to To connect Lukas’ work with with that of Erró himself, ar- ‘Raw Power’—represents her time an overtly political aspect of Erró, brunch ranged in ways that encourage the dodging the polizei as a tagger in Birgis places it next to ‘United viewer to make connections and Berlin. She now divides her time Army’, one of Erró’s appropria- [11:30 - 16:00 ] draw threads between pieces. between Reykjavík and Athens, tions of Maoist propaganda. The presence of Erró’s ‘The but even during her Berlin period “This is about creating, or re- Tomato Soup’ in the exhibition Sara’s connection to her homeland writing, history through paint- makes a clear connection to argu- remained strong. ing,” Lukas says of the connection ably the world’s most famous piece “I don't ever not want to be an between the works. “Mao is visit- of pop art—Warhol’s 'Campbell's Icelandic artist,” Sara explains as ing Venice; something that never Soup Cans’—and is a reminder of she sits in the Greek sunshine. happened. But it is something that Erró’s role in that scene. Erró pro- “That's why I moved back to Ice- could have happened if world his- duced his own soupy opus the year land from Berlin. I wanted to write tory had gone a different way.” A dish full of after his partner-in-appropriation this into my own cultural history.” Warhol put his cans on display, When asked about Erró’s influ- cheekily re-appropriating an ap- ence, Sara says that the genera- Erró—the world’s acclaimed artist tasty brunch propriation. Erró draws attention tional gap between the master and to a piece created and currently the younger artists creates more Iggy Pop may lay claim to being displayed on the other side of the of a remove than any geographical “the world’s forgotten boy,” but Atlantic, serving up a reminder of situation. through ‘Raw Power’ Erró rein- + mimosa his lack of concern with concepts “I think Erró has influenced us forces his legacy as Iceland’s most of artistic nationality. all,” she suggests, “even though we globally-recognisable artist. Hav- Þórdís Aðalsteinsdóttir’s don't want to admit it. He's like a ing said that, his blazing the trail ‘Shrimp Cocktail’ is hung next grandfather to us, which makes for an Icelandic creative diaspora to Erró’s ‘The Tomato Soup’. The him something of a distant char- renders such definitions redun- works are connected in an uncom- acter.” dant. Erró’s energy, power and fortably visceral way through the Lukas Bury, another ‘Raw Pow- influence extend beyond descrip- naked, pink shellfish of Þórdís’ er’ artist, is a new Icelander with tions of nationality to exist univer- Only work echoing the exposed human Polish-German roots. His self- sally. 2990 kr.

Lukas (le"), Birgir (right) and Erró (behind)

JORGENSENKITCHEN.IS LAUGAVEGUR 120, 105 REYKJAVÍK +354 595 8565

One corner of the exhibition space full of raw power The Reykjavík Grapevine 14 Best of Reykjavík Issue 03— 2021 other fan favourite. Ingi (@bleksmidjan. ingi) is a go-to for colour-realism, which you don’t see a ton of in this country. Also, nota- bly, Bleksmiðjan has some amazing piercing people (@bleksmidjan.piercing) who can do everything from smilies to dermals. No word as to whether or not they can install a $24 mil- lion pink diamond in our forehead, though.

Apollo Ink

Síðumúli 3

Apollo Ink is probably the number one place for black and grey realism in Reykjavík, con- sidering most of the artists here specialise in it and just do it really fucking well. Adrian Chou’s (@adrian.chou.art) surrealist take on the style is particularly trippy, but seri- ously, Jesus Christ, everyone here is just really good ain’t they? Isn’t realism supposed to be super hard? Where did they find these people?

Reykjavík Ink

Frakkastígur 7

The one. The only. No doubt a downtown institution by this point, Reykjavík Ink is a You sure you don't want a dandelion blowing into birds? tried-and-true locale that has been serving the local community faithfully for 13 lucky years. Pro-tip: They get really fantastic guest view of any in Reykjavík so we’d love to offer artists, so keep an eye on their Instagram to to switch offices with them. Second off, this see who’s coming over. Where To Get Your is another place that runs the gamut of styles beautifully. It's notably a great place for nerds, Irezumi Ink as they have a dedicated artist Joel (@geeks_ Grapevine Tattoo ink) who does, as you could guess, geeky shit. Laugavegur 69

You can even just get our logo! We love free Black Kross Great location. Classic team. Takes walk-ins daily. That's kind of like the golden trio for a advertising! Hamraborg 14a, Kópavogur good ole' tattoo parlour, yeah? If you need an even sweeter deal, they are also now offer- Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photo: Art Bicnick A really, really, really good place for old school. ing 20% off big black and grey arm pieces for Actually, the artists there do everything well, March. So you really have no excuse do you? I The last few years have seen a boom of tattoo na_sweet_hell, formerly of Sweet Hell) is a but their old school is particularly *chef’s mean it's downtown for God's sake. parlours around Reykjavík. In fact, there’s now so master of this stuff, who you can trust to give kiss*. In my experience, people who like Black many that we literally don’t have the space to fea- you jewel-eyed animals surrounding by flow- Kross are weirdly culty about it—like they ture them all here, which we sincerely apologise ing pastel clouds or other enchanting things only get tattooed there and go a lot and just Also Check Out: for. That said, here’s a diverse selection of what like that. That said, we’d particularly like to really love it—so watch out, they might be this city offers. (Email that GV ink to grapevine@ compliment Hrefna Maria (@haria_art) on putting something in the ink. (For legal rea- - Aura Reykjavík: The new studio on the grapevine.is) the gothy blackwork she’s got going on. As an sons, that's a joke.) block. We’re excited to see what 2021 holds (internally) goth magazine, her devotion to for them. Íslenzka Húðflúrstofan the darker arts must be celebrated (sullenly). Memoria Collective - Ritual Tattoo: Another great bunch that seems to get some truly unique guest artists. Ingólfsstræti 3 Street Rats Tattoo Hverfisgata 52 Follow on Instagram (@ritual_tattoo_ice- land) to keep up. This classic shop caters to all styles, with a Hverfisgata 37 Another place that does most styles and does - After 6 Tattoos: Kind of a supergroup col- roster of artists that serve up everything from them really well. That said, Balli’s (@bal- lective featuring @uglybrothers, @sleep- realism to new-school and more, all done Runner-up for our Best of Reykjavík 2020 liiagnars) got some particularly stellar neo- lessinrvk, @mottandi and @kocane_ beautifully. We’d particularly recommend award for Hidden Gem, Street Rats Tattoo is traditional and Deborah Lilja (@treespirits. wayne. Message on Instagram to talk about the hand-poked pieces by Habba (@habba- the personal playground of Kristófer, a.k.a. tattoo) just started serving up some anime your groundbreaking ideas. nerotattoo), Reykjavík’s resident witch-stave- Sleepofer Tattoo (@sleepofertattoo). He stuff which we—an office stacked to the brim - Other various Instagrams to follow: runic genius. Not only are they gorgeously does that sort of full-on thick traditional with untranslated manga—love. We must @thorst1tattoo, @hopingnopolice and ornate in that straight-out-of-800-AD-way, shit that never goes out of style. Think naked also shout out the black and grey work of Emii wow there are so many people right now but they might save you from evil spirits. ladies, skulls, snakes and spiderwebs. You Dun (@emii.dun.tattoos), who has tattooed please don't be sad if we forgot anyone. know, devil-may-care things that make you the author of this article many times. No fa- White Hill Tattoo look cool. vouritism here, folks. Laugavegur 25 Valkyrie Tattoo Studio Bleksmiðjan Tattoo & Piercing Note: Anyone who gets a Grapevine tat- too gets a free year subscription to the Grapevine and an article dedicated to For illustrative, watercolour and similarly Fiskislóð 31 Kringlan 7 them. We'd prefer it in that blackwork- bright and ethereal works, head to White with-red-lines we know you’re lusting Hill. The one and only Marlena (@marle- First off, this studio no doubt has the best Located next to Kringlan, Bleksmiðjan is an- after right now. E-mail for designs.

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Bar & Restaurant Pocket Hverfisgata 26 Reykjavík Map Places We Like Best Of Reykjavík Bar & Restaurant Hver!sgata 26

Perfect Day Get Grapevine Merch! Dance, jive & have the time of your life

Words: John Pearson Photo: Art Bicnick

Margrét Rán in the day, so mid-morning I'd go to table. And my best friend, Svanhil- Margrét Rán Magnúsdóttir is most my studio in Hafnar$örður. There, I’d dur, would be there. She's been bat- o!en found fronting Vök, Iceland’s work on something exciting—prob- tling cancer, so she would be totally premier purveyors of lucid-dream ably a Vök song, because I’m finish- healthy and cancer-free. And we pop, but she also makes music for ing the album right now—that I can would just be laughing hard because films. Margrét’s beautiful, visceral feed o# the next few days. I’d listen obviously we're amateurs, and don't soundscapes underpin 'A Song to it over and over again, until I can't know shit about woodwork. shop.grapevine.is Called Hate', the powerful Hatari- stand it. I love that! Eurovision documentary which Hot night, cold mojitos recently got its cinematic release. Lunchtime life-chats shop.grapevine.is Here’s how Margrét’s perfect day in Later on I’d go to the lovely Sólir Yoga, Reykjavík would be spent. It's lunchtime and I'm feeling quite where I've been doing mind-blow- shop.grapevine.is social. I'm in love with a place called ing hot yoga classes. Then I’d head Breakfast in Birkenstocks Von Mathus, which is by the sea on home to Hafnar$örður and take shop.grapevine.is downtown in Hafnar$örður. So I'd go a long hot and cold shower, after First thing in the morning, I would over there, meet up with friends, get which it would be time for me and wake up to beautiful sunshine the fish of the day and talk about life. Bryndis to pack our bags. We’d put shop.grapevine.is through my window. My cat, Emma, Then I’d jump over to Café Pallett— Emma in the car and go for a quick Don't Hesitate! would be cuddling me, which she which is in the same building—get delicious pizza at Flatey in Garðabær, shop.grapevine.is*Act Now! never does in real life. Then I would takeaway co#ee and drive to Hvaley- where I would get my favorite tar- put on clothes and my Birkenstocks, rarvatn for a nice walk in the sun. tufo pizza. As it’s my perfect day, * You only need to type the URL in once walk to the kitchen and make a deli- Emma would get to sit at the table cious pour-over co#ee and oatmeal Artisanal afternoon with us! A%erwards we would head banana pancakes, while listening to to my summer house in Grímsnes Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong. I keep day-dreaming about building where my family would already be I would, of course, enjoy this nice something out of wood, like a din- mixing the mojitos. Then we’d end morning with my girlfriend, Bryndis. ner table or something. I don't know this perfect day by blasting music Venue Finder I love these slow tempo mornings! anything about carpentry, but I want on the summerhouse porch, danc- Venues Museums & Galleries to be able to do it! So I’d go to my ing in the heat of the night! So that The numbers (i.e. E4) tell you the position ART67 The Penis Museum Kjarvalsstaðir Mid-morning music fantasy wood workshop where I'm would be my perfect day. It's a really on the map on the next page. The letter Laugavegur 67 F7 Laugavegur 116 F8 Flókagata 24 H8 Open daily 9-21 Open daily 10-18 Open daily 10-17 is the row, the number is the column. surrounded by all this crazy beauti- good one—and a long one! Ásmundarsalur Kirsuberjatréð Ásmundarsafn I tend to be more creative earlier ful wood and I would build myself a Austur Skúlagata 28 E7 Freyjugata 41 G6 Vesturgata 4 D3 Sigtún Austurstræti 7 D3 Open Tue-Sun 8-17 M-F 10-18, Sat-Sun Open daily 10-17 Kaffibarinn 10-17 American Bar Bergstaðastræti 1 E4 Aurora Reykjavík Reykjavík City Library Austurstræti 8 D3 Grandagarður 2 B1 Kling & Bang Tryggvagata 15 D3 Kiki Queer Bar Open 09-21 Grandagarður 20 A4 Mon-Thu 10-19, Fri 11- Andrými Laugavegur 22 E5 W-Sun 14-18, Th 12-21 18, Sat-Sun 13-17 Bergþórugata 20 G6 Ásgrímur Jónsson t Loft Museum Listastofan Árbæjarsafn B5 Bankastræti 7 E4 Bergstaðastr. 74 G4 Hringbraut 119 Kistuhylur 4 Vital Info Bankastræti 5 E4 July 8-Sep 1, Mon-Fri Open Wed-Sat 13-17 Open daily 13-17 Mengi Bíó Paradís Óðinsgata 2 F5 Berg Contemporary Living Art Museum The Settlement Hverfisgata 54 E5 Klapparstígur 16 E5 Granadarður 20 A4 Exhibition Useful Numbers Opening Hours - Bars & Clubs Public Toilets Nordic House Tu-F 11-17, Sat 13-17 T-Sun 12-18, Th 12-21 Aðalstræti 16 D3 Bravó Sturlagata 5 H2 Open daily 9-18 Emergency: 112 Bars can stay open until 23:00 on week- Public toilets in the centre can be found Laugavegur 22 E5 The Culture House Mokka Kaffi Ölsmiðjan Hverfisgata 15 E5 Skólavörðustíg. 3A E5 Reykjavík Museum On-call doctors: 1770 days and weekends until further notice. inside the green-poster covered towers Curious Lækjargata 10 E3 Open daily 10–17 Open daily 9-18:30 of Photography Hafnarstræti 4 D3 Tryggvagata 15 D3 Dental emergency: 575 0505 located at Hlemmur, Ingólfstorg, by Paloma The Einar Jónsson Museum of Design Mon-Thu 10-18, Fri 11- Opening Hours - Shops & Banks Dillon Naustin D3 Museum and Applied Art 18, Sat-Sun 13-18 Taxi: Hreyfill: 588 5522 - BSR: 561 0000 Hallgrímskirkja, by Reykjavík Art Mu- Laugavegur 30 E5 Eiriksgata G5 Garðatorg 1 Most shops: Mon–Fri 10–18, Sat 10–16, seum, Lækjargata and by Eymundsson Papaku Reykjavík Open Tue–Sun 10–17 Open Tu-Sun 12-17 Saga Museum Dubliner Klapparstígur 28 E5 Grandagarður 2 B2 Post Office Sun closed. Banks: Mon-Fri 09-16 on Skólavörðustígur. Toilets can also be Naustin 1-3 D3 Exxistenz The National Open daily 10-18 Prikið Bergstaðast. 25b F4 Gallery of Iceland The downtown post office has moved to found inside the Reykjavík City Hall and English Pub Bankastræti 12 E4 Fríkirkjuvegur 7 F3 Sigurjón Ólafsson Swimming Pools Austurstræti 12 D3 Gallerí List Open daily 10–17 Museum Hagatorgi 1, open Mon–Fri, 09:00–17:00. the Reykjavík Library. R6013 Skipholt 50A H10 Laugarnestangi 70 Sundhöllin, the downtown pool at Gaukurinn Ingólfsstræti 20 E4 M-F 11-18, Sat 11-16 The National Open Tu-Sun 14-17 Tryggvagata 22 D3 Museum Pharmacies Barónsstígur, is an indoor swimming Public Transport Röntgen Hafnarborg Suðurgata 41 G2 SÍM Hard Rock Café Hverfisgata 12 E5 Strandgata 34, 220 Open daily 10–17 Hafnarstræti 16 D3 Lyf og heilsa, Egilsgata 3, tel: 563 1020 pool with hot tubs and a diving board. Most buses run every 20–30 minutes Lækjargata 2a D3 Open Wed-Mon 12-17 Open Mon-Fri 10-16 Reykjavík Roasters The Nordic House Lyfja, Laugavegur 16, tel: 552 4045 More pools: gpv.is/swim Fare: 480 ISK adults, 240 ISK children. Hressó Kárastígur 1 F5 Hverfisgallerí Sturlugata 5 H2 Tveir Hrafnar Austurstræti 20 D3 Hverfisgata 4 D4 Stofan Café Thu-Tu 11-17, W 11-20 Baldursgata 12 G4 and Lágmúli 5, tel: 533 2300 Open: Mon-Thu from 06:30–22. Fri from Buses run from 07–24:00, and 10–04:30 Tu-Fri 13-17, Sat 14-17 Open Fri-Sat 13-16 Iðnó Vesturgata 3 D3 Hafnarhús 06:30–20. Sat from 08–16. Sun from 10–18. on weekends. More info: www.bus.is. Vonarstræti 3 E3 i8 Gallery Tryggvagata 17 D3 Wind & Weather Tjarnarbíó Tryggvagata 16 D3 Kex Hostel Tjarnargata 12 E3 Open 10-17, Thu 10-22 Window Gallery Tu-Fri 11-18, Sat 13-17 Hverfisgata 37 E5 A Downtown & admittedly, fantastic—Grapevine’s A recc is the Sýslumannsbátur with Harbour DistrictÐ extra cucumber. Intend to have FISKISLÓ Get the bigger, moreThe detailed version of The ReykjavíkMap Grapevine a drunk gorge on your Hlölli in the ÐUR City Map at your nearest hotel or guesthouse, with selections from our comfort of your bed before falling Best-Of awards, vital info, downtown bus stops and a wider view of the city. asleep on a sauce-covered pillow? GRANDAGAR

ELEGANT PREMISES Carry that beautiful sub like a !" IN THE HEART OF newborn child in your arms. B !! Maritime REYKJAVIK fried delight. But if you get a chance Museum to taste their glazed, almost cakey, 11. The Coocoo's Nest BREAKFAST and BRUNCH Dining lemon poppy seed doughnut—leap Saga Aurora LUNCH and DINNER MENU on it like a werewolf... Grandagarður 23 Museum Reykjavik LOCAL and FOREIGN DISHES 1. Plútó Pizza ÁNANAUST HAPPY HOUR DAILY 15-18:00 6. Osushi Nestled in a refurbished fishing hut NÝ Hagamelur 67, 107 Reykjavík in Grandi, The Coocoo’s Nest is a cosy LE ND HOLTSGATA U M C GATA Ý Tryggvagata 13 and airy cafe, offering California- SELJAVEGUR RA RG Love pizzas, but don’t think they’re casual brunch, lunch, and dinner, ATA

quite big enough? Why not dive into Also called “The Train”, O Sushi's most with an Italian twist. With large FRAMNESVEGUR BANKASTRÆTI 7A - 101 REYKJAVÍK - TEL. 562 3232 an 18 inch pie from Plútó Pizza? Or, if intriguing feature is a conveyor windows and light wood throughout, ÍGUR VESTURGATA that sounds a bit much, opt for their belt that runs around the entire this is perfect for a lazy Saturday get- BÁRUGATA ARST RÁNARGATA slice and drink deal; and when we restaurant delivering a buffet of together or an afternoon ‘aperitivo’ HOLTSG. ÖLDUGATA say “slice”, we’re still talking about authentic Sushi straight to your after work. If you are in that part ofG ATA RABORG RIMANNASTÍGUR THE Ð Ý a quarter of a pizza here—you won’t table. It's the perfect place to try town, head over for a warm-up. ST D BRÆ go hungry. new dishes on appearance alone and MARARG. TÚNGATA ÆGISGATA see if they strike your fancy. HÁ VALLAGATA 2. Duck & Rose S WAY ÓLVALLAGATA to plan your journey 7. Hlemmur Mathöll Drinking TÚNGATA Austurstræti 14 ÁS VALLAGATA Hlemmur Square 12. Vínstúkan Tíú Sopar Duck & Rose is the hip and happening place that opened across the street They got it all, folks: Bahn mi, Napoli- Laugavegur 27 E HÓLAVALLAG. from Apótek last May. The new stye pizza, fish tacos, lamb specials, S ! ÓLVALLAGATA cafe serves light fare influenced Michelin-quality high end cuisine, The charming basement bar focuses by French and Italian cuisine. With coffee, and even fucking gelato now. on natural wines as well as wines neon signs and roses on the walls, Yup, this food hall is a one-stop-shop from smaller producers and lesser- REYNIMELUR HRINGBRAUT URGATA the chíc cafe is certainly inspired by for literally everything in Reykjavík's known regions. They have twelve Ð

VÍ SU romance. Try the duck pizza. Their beloved bus station. It's also one of bottles open at any one time, andÐ IMELUR Strætó vegan rigatoni is also orgasmic. Grapevine's favourite places for a the selection changes daily, so you F LJÓSVALLAGATA The o!cial Icelandic first date, in case you're like, in the truly never know what you’re going Hólavalla- public transport app 3. Fjallkonan market for that. to get. garður Cemetary Hafnarstræti 1-3 8. Fine 13. Aldamót Bar ESPIMELUR

B Named after the female Rauðarárstígur 33 Kirkjutorg 4 personification of Iceland, Fjallkonan G FURUMELUR is located smack-bang in the middle Did you know that the Chinese kanji Taking over the famed Klaustur place, National BIRKIMELUR library of downtown, and caters to locals for fine recalls that of rice/meal? This this cosy spot is the perfect mix of and tourists alike. For the Icelandic- proper Sichuanese restaurant packs classy and relaxed. It's become a cuisine-curious, there is a platter of a wallop of flavour, heat and textural favourite of our Culture Editor in the National museum whale, lamb and puffin. For those who delight in each of their selections. past months with socially distance- are just looking for a great selection The simply stir-fried hot and sour safe tables and table service. This of fresh meat, fish and vegetarian potato matchsticks and vegetables place has got a bright and boozy options, Fjallkonan does these well, are exactly the kind of subtlety future. H ÐURGATA SU also. The veggie burger, double- that has been absent from Chinese University cooked fries, and beetroot and feta cuisines in these parts and puts to 14. Kiki Queer Bar of Iceland dish come highly recommended. rest doubts that this is only a fiery spicy cuisine. Other must-tries are Laugavegur 22 4. Café Babalú the beef in hot oil, yu-shiang chicken. IT'S OPEN! Yup, Kiki is a love-it-or-hate- Skólavörðustígur 22 it situation, but if you’re looking to STURLUAGATA SÆMUNDARGATA 9. Yuzu I dance to the greatest hits of the past Nordic House Culture Center Laugavegur 60A, 101 Reykjavík A staple for all Reykjavíkingur, Babalú Hverfisgata 44 30 years, it won’t disappoint.FÁLKAGATA Even 1 2 himalayanspiceiceland.com offers comfort food for folks on a though right now there is no dancing, budget as well as a Star Wars themed Headed up by the owners of beloved they are re-opening up with tables,

bathroom (seriously). Their chilli will clothing store Húrra Reykjavík, Yuzu small drag shows and other queer Mengi’s concertARAGATA room is more white C fill your belly, and there’s a vegan is an artisanal burger shop with entertainment. RuPaul bless. cube than diveODDAGATA bar. The programme carrot cake sure to tempt you back an Eastern twist. Stop by for their encourages new collaborations and for repeat visits. Unpretentious and lunch deal, which features a choice 15. Miami Bar experimental performances, so even bubbly, tuck yourself into a booth of burgers, with fries and spiced if you know and love the work of the Wine bar downstairs or squirrel yourself mayonnaise for 1,990 ISK. They’ve also Hverfisgata 33 musicians you’re seeing, you might & food away for a quiet tête-à-tête over tea got a kimchi chicken burger—not be treated to something brand new upstairs. And try the vegan carrot part of the lunch deal—which sounds With a sharp aesthetic that’s miles on any given night. cake, we beg you. deliciously intriguing. Real-talk: ahead of any other joint in town, Yuzu’s condiments converted two Miami serves up pure vice with a 17. Luna Flórens 5. Deig previously mayo-averse Grapevine splash of cosmopolitanism and a staffers. dedicated ping-pong room in the Grandagarður 25 Vegamótastígur 4 basement. If that’s not enough, 10. Hlöllabátar they also offer Cuba Libre on draft. Part flower-child, part spiritual and It’s hard to make any promises So sit back, drink, and you’ll feel with a whole lot of whimsy thrown about availability at Deig due to Ingólfstorg just like you’re in ‘Scarface’—minus into the mix, this cosy and hand- the bakery’s love of innovation and the massacres and mountains of crafted bar is so intimate it makes surprising flavours. The good news If you can’t decide between chicken, cocaine. you wanna spend the day musing is that you’ll rarely see a misstep beef, shrimp, teriyaki or veggies for about geodes, lunar cycles and tarot there as all of their stuff is amazing. your munch, stop by Hlöllabátar, 16. Mengi card readings. You can do all this and VÍNSTÚKAN Stop by, and Deig’ll fix you up with where they serve up literally anything more while sipping on their excellent a chocolate cake cruller, crème you can imagine on a hero sub. Most Óðinsgata 2 house cocktails and an excellent slice brûlée doughnut or some other famous for their sauce—which is, of vegan cake. Go for an after work E HÓLMASLÓ

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LANGAHL BÓLSTA Laugavegur 20b will find in American Bar a great spot in flowing black capes and dresses. Tulipop serves up everything from SÍ 21. Hildur Hafstein ÐARHLÍ HÁALEITISBRAUT HRI MIKLABRAUT Ð to listen to classicNG BcountryRAUT music. If you are into this particular 101 RVK lamps to wallets Ðall covered in the UMÚLI STARHAGI KRINGLUM ÁLFHEIMAR HEIMAR IT'S OPEN! Yup, a small, stylish drinking Grab a rib and be happy. Klapparstígur 40 look, this place is gold. cutestSKAFTA monsters you’ll ever see. The Ð NAUTHÓLSVEGUR HLÍ hole popular with the after-work Icelandic brand’sÐ flagship store is ÁLFTAMÝRI GO business crowd, Kaldi is a great Hildur Hafstein is known for her Ð an explosion of pastels and neons. 23. 12 Tónar SAFAM place to feel a little classier and slightly hippy, slightly witchyESKIHLÍ Seriously, Tulipop is the cutest. SÓLHEIMAR SKÓGARHLÍ BARMAHLÍ BÚSTA Ý drink with dignity. The beer selection vibe—a lone jewellery shaman Skólavörðustígur 15 Ð RI REYKJAHLÍ Shopping Ð is top-notch, and the handcrafted within the Icelandic scene. Filling a 25. 66° North MIKLABRAUT Ð MÁVAHLÍ interior tips the scales of upscale niche all her own,AVEGUR her mix of delicateÐ This city-centre record store is 20. Myrkraverk Studio Ð STIGAHLÍ LJÓSHEIMAR ÞORRAGATA rustic charm. You can be certain jewellery with unusual shapes is something of an institution, offering Laugavegur 17-19 Ð Ð DRÁPUHLÍ that conversation will rule, not loud Skólavörðustígur 3 truly a delight. Stop by her tucked the unique experience of having the GNO Ð SKEIFAN music. You also might meet important away Klapparstígur studio to store staff ask about your music 66 North is the OG brand in Iceland, Ð ARVOGUR people, fall in love, and move to This hole-in-the-wall artist-run experience the magic in person. taste then sitBLÖNDUHLÍ you down with some donned by everyoneGRÆNAHLÍ from rural STAKKAHLÍ Seltjarnarnes. space is a true treasure for those headphones, and a pileÐ of Icelandic farmers to downtown Ðfuckboys. seeking some edgier artworks. records. It’s also a label that puts out Peruse their wares and it’s obvious FLUGVALLARVEGUR22. Aftur MIKLABRAUT FELLSMÚLI Featuring a rotating cast of many top Icelandic artists. A must- why—their quality and aesthetics is Reykjavík 19. American Bar GRENSÁSVEGUR Domestic Reykjavík’s best underground Laugavegur 39 visit Reykjavík store. Note: They also impeccable. These are pieces that Austurstræti 8 artists, including Freyja Eilif, Solveig have a small bar and occasionally will last you notHAMRAHLÍ only your lifetime, Airport Ð Terminal Kringlan Pálsdóttir, Boot Foot Toys and Aftur is a mecca for Iceland’s stylish some shows. Ðbut probably your grandchildren’s. Shopping HÖRGSHLÍÐ EINARSNES Mall F HÁAHLÍ Party Every Night. Cocktails! Ð

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Nauthólsvík Beach The Reykjavík Grapevine 18 Music Issue 03— 2021 sea. It was a concept I wanted to doesn’t just hope you’ll find it—he’s write around; the story that I went sure you will. on this journey, just to find out “‘Tourist’ is how I felt. I felt like that I wanted to be home.” Sud- a tourist in all these places. And denly he laughs, almost rolling the emotion that brings out in you his eyes at his words. “The cliché is just feeling lost, and looking for feeling.” something that makes you feel like Of course—things are cliché for that is where you’re meant to be,” a reason. They’re usually true. he explains. “And being a tourist Musically, Axel emphasises, it is the opposite of that. You’re un- was also a journey home. “Previ- sure of your emotions. You start ously, I felt like I wanted more pop questioning everything and it had elements to show a domino effect people that I had a on the rest of my lot of sides to myself “I went on this life. I got to a point as an artist,” he ad- where I thought— mits. “But I guess I journey, just to is this what I want thought that I want- find out that I to do with my life? ed to do that more The thing I love the than I did, so when I wanted to be most? I got myself went to this record, I home.” to a point where I thought I’m going to started questioning go back to my roots. my love for music.” I went more acoustic indie-folk But with the return home, Ax- because I had always wanted my el’s questioning faded. And the al- first record to represent that part bum ends on an inspirational tone of myself.” with the title song “You Stay by the Sea.” It’s a secure song, without the self-conscious questioning of Maybe you'll find it “Tourist”. Instead, from his posi- “Tourist”—Axel’s first single from tion back in his roots, Axel ends his the album—is particularly em- debut effort with definite sureness. blematic of this. It’s a pining song Slowly, over a strong, simple piano that feels most apt for a twilight melody, he gives his wisdom: walk through a foggy city. Slow and mournful at the beginning, “That your eyes won't bleed as much it journeys into a large, aching When you stay by the sea soundscape and coalesces with Ax- And your house won't need as much el’s resigned plea of, “Maybe you’ll With her, you will see find it”—with each repetition more You stay by the sea” heartbreaking than the last. Even so, there’s still a note of warmth in gpv.is/music You won't find Axel in a pu$n shop Axel’s voice. You get the feeling he Share this + Archives A Tourist, No More Taste the On his debut effort, Axel Flóvent returns home Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photo: Art Bicnick best of Iceland Album ing his debut album, which he had years ago gone to Europe to Check out ‘You Stay by the Sea’ on do, but the pieces had never lined all streaming platforms or pick up a up. Now, missing his family and copy at shop.grapevine.is friends in Iceland and seemingly without purpose, he felt like he had Perhaps Axel Flóvent’s debut al- no other choice. bum ‘You Stay by the Sea’ is the al- “I didn’t want to move home ICELANDIC GOURMET FEAST bum 2021 needs, even if it doesn’t right away,” he says softly. “I felt know it yet. After the chaos of that if I returned to Iceland, I had Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic 2020, Axel’s calming, homey tones failed in my mission. In my na- spirit Brennívín feel like a retreat into the quiet, ive mind, I had this idea that if I Followed by 7 delicious tapas carefree warmth was going to re- of childhood— turn to Iceland, I • Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce the folky indie- needed to come • Icelandic Arctic Charr with peppers-salsa pop that reminds “I got to a point home with some- us of the unpre- where I thought— thing.” • Lobster tails baked in garlic tentious human- is this what I want But coming • Pan-fried line caught blue ling with lobster sauce ness of the genre. home ended up It’s an effort that to do with my life? being serendipi- • Icelandic lamb with beer-butterscotch sauce exists outside of The thing I love the tou s, b ec au se current events. upon his return • Minke Whale with cranberry & malt sauce Much like the most?” to the country, he And for dessert waves it’s named was immediately for, Axel has cre- contacted by his • White chocolate "Skyr" mousse with passion coulis ated a timeless work that harkens current label, Nettwerk, who were back to a time where the chance anxious to help him release his of a moment alone at home was a long-awaited debut. “They were luxury, rather than a torment. the perfect fit for me,” he smiles 8.990 kr. brightly. And in January, his dream Returning home was finally realised. The album followed Axel’s move That cliché feeling from Amsterdam to Brighton and late night dining subsequently home to Iceland. It “The concept of the record came Our kitchen is open was a dark time for the artist. He from this story,” Axel continues. felt isolated and unsupported. For “It was the sense of being close to until 23:30 on weekdays years, he had dreamt of releas- the sea because I grew up by the and 01:00 on weekends TAPASBARINN | Vesturgata 3B | Tel: 551 2344 | tapas.is The Reykjavík Grapevine 19 Music Issue 03— 2021 Event Picks

their debut album, which will no doubt be sung by the sirens for aeons to come. So, weary traveller, come rest your wand by the fire and weep to the beauty of the unholy warcry as you plan your quest to Mordor. For the wolves will come Iceland Symphony Orchestra: Sycamore Tree soon, down through Grammy Celebration MUSIC The much-anticipated and POWER PALADIN the abandoned caverns March 19th - 20:30 - Harpa - 4,990 ISK NEWS constantly-rescheduled of dwarven Moria and March 18th - 20:00 - Harpa - Debussy — Rameau concert March 20th - 20:00 - Gaukurinn - Free! the golden fields of 2,400-5,700 ISK Sycamore Tree—the duo of Ágústa with classical virtuoso Víkingur Heiðar Fillory, and ye best not Eva Erlendsdóttir and Gunnar Ólafsson was one of the best-attended Give in to the temptation Paladin came to its aid. be in the fields of Calla AT THE TIME YOU ARE READING THIS, THE Hilmarsson—is bringing the good concerts of 2021 so far, with 800 of the palantír and join The band, a longtime (Gaukurinn) when that ICELAND SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA COULD ole’ Americana to Harpa. Expect guests in attendance. Held at Harpa Kvothe for a magical Grapevine favourite— happens (after closing). BE GRAMMY WINNERS OR GRAMMY dramatic lyrics about loss and over the second weekend in March, it journey into the check out our Airwaves Donne your best cloaks SHOULD-HAVE-BEEN WINNERS! We homecoming, that country singer was a smash hit. That said, there was, forbidden forest. For reviews for proof of our and richly embroidered don’t know because this is bein! thing they do where they raise the of course, a small hitch. Among the when Iceland called devotion to their ka- tunics (or just a cloak, if published pre-Grammys. Either way, note at the end of the note and even guests was one that didn’t pay for its for power metal, Power tet—is soon to release you’re a slut). HJC they will celebrate. Pop the cham- a harmonica. Yee-haw! HJC ticket—the notorious party pooper pa!ne. Sin! a paean. HJC COVID-19. After one attendee tested positive for the virus, all of the guests Verily! A volcano, virus and vendetta, held as a votive not in vain, vanquished our music listin!s pa!es. Vá! smh subsequently needed to get tested with a dozen or so entering quarantine. VG ideas for songs. I just start doing something. Sometimes I have plans that I’m going to make something more approachable or more pop, but then it just always goes in some re- ally weird direction. It doesn’t really turn out exactly that way because of ADHD. It just goes somewhere else.”

1,934 views To approach this ether, he often utilises found clips. “I sample a lot from the internet: YouTube videos, Instagram stories, TikToks,” he ex- plains. “I’ll also very often go out for walks and record sounds in the environment. Then I add, you know, Bubbi and Bríet made headlines in the 99 jumps and make a snare to give beginning of March with the release it a beat. I really like to plant all of of their new duet “Ástrós,” written this together so it’s not too ‘bleep- by Bubbi. The song tells the story of a bloop’. I find a middle ground, but woman who murders her partner after I’m not perfect in production, but enduring brutal domestic violence. that’s what I like about making my Some are saying this is Bubbi’s best music. It’s very naive.” song in decades—and that guy has a For example, a sample from his catalogue most musicians in Iceland, song “Vindharpa 4” came from a and even the Northern hemisphere, YouTube video he found on a deep- would, well maybe not kill for, but you dive. “It’s this old man speaking in get it. The song’s goal is to spread a foreign language. He seems to be awareness of the large growing prob- ranting, but he, or someone, put a lem of domestic violence during this Add a bagel to this album and we're in business vocoder on his voice,” Vilhjálmur time of COVID and it’s safe to say it’s says. He fails to mention that the done its job as every other Icelander Sonic ADHD man is wearing a tinfoil hat, which has shed a tear listening to its beauti- seems to make it all the more ab- ful and brutal lyrics. VG Susan_creamcheese—the name— surd. At the time of writing, the Sensory is a reference to Vilhjálmur’s teen- video has 1,934 views—that’s how age Frank Zappa phase. “On one of deep of a dive Vilhjálmur takes to his albums, there’s an interlude. It’s find his inspirations. Overload a skit where he’s making fun of hip- ‘common house buggy’ is a collec- pies. Then the interviewer, played by tion of songs Vilhjálmur has made The delicious cacophony of Frank Zappa, talks to this girl and over the last two years, but that said, she says, ‘My name is Suzy Cream- he urges listeners not to hold their Susan_creamcheese cheese’ and the name just kind of breath for another solo release soon. stuck with me.” “I have songs that I’m working on Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photo: Provided by Susan_creamcheese The Suzy Creamcheese lore runs but you release stuff when you’re deep. Admittedly, it’s an internet totally ready,” he admits. He takes Album Buckle up rabbit hole you could easily spend his time with things, he explains, hou rs i n, but rework ing and Check out Susan_creamcheese on Susan_creamcheese is the solo basically, Suzy remixing songs all streaming platforms. project of Vilhjálmur Yngvi Hjál- Creamcheese was “I’m not perfect endlessly until marsson, who recently dropped (allegedly) a mon- the moment is Enter the fantasy: You’re on a weird- two albums with the post-dreifing iker given to var- in production, but right. “I don’t like On the topic of COVID-19—heard of ly positive bath salts trip. It’s the collective entitled ‘common house ious women who that’s what I like pressuring myself it?—Scooter is coming back to Iceland peak of the party and the noise of buggy’ and ‘glupsk 2’ (a collabora- were sort of hype to be creative,” he and will infect the whole nation with the dance floor begins to envelop tion with Örlygur Steinar Arnalds guys for Frank about making my concludes. his happy hardcore vibes until even your soul, drowning out the pump- and Guðmundur Ari Arnalds). His Zappa. Their job music. It’s very But if these your Grandma ends up swinging from ing of blood through your pounding creations distil every type of elec- was to get the two albums tell the chandelier like an amphetamine- eardrums. You can’t breathe. You tronic music you can imagine—and party going and naive.” us anything—it’s fuelled Energizer bunny. The concert can’t speak. In fact, you have abso- some you can’t—down to a kaleido- keep it high. It’s that Vilhjálmur will be in Laugardalshöllin on the 22nd lutely no idea what the upcoming scopic melange of cacophony. Even therefore an apt doesn’t need to of October, provided there are no seconds hold. You might be having Nostradamus himself couldn’t an- reference for Vilhjálmur’s music— pressure himself to find creativity. COVID-19 interruptions. GusGus will also a heart attack. But, as the sweat ticipate where Vilhjálmur’s songs which really would shine brightest No, he’s already got delicious son- play at the concert as well as ClubDub pools on your brow, you—for the end up—they’re that enchantingly at the deepest, darkest, late-night ic cacophony running through his and DJ Margeir. This is the 597th time first time in your life—are totally in erratic. So, dear readers, when you parties. cream cheese veins. Scooter will perform for Icelanders, the moment and totally, deliriously, check out his work, here’s some ad- Vilhjálmur describes his music who obviously have way too much out of control. And what’s playing vice: Buckle up. It’s going to be a as “ADHD.” “It’s very much atten- energy to burn and some serious soul as you willingly enter the void? Su- weird ride. tion deficit disorder,” he says, quite searching to do. VG gpv.is/music san_creamcheese. calmly. “I never have any concrete Share this + Archives i8 Gallery Tryggvagata 16 101 Reykjavík [email protected]

t: +354 551 3666 www.i8.is Art

4 February - 3 April 2021 ANDREAS ERIKSSON

The artist in our own dimension, photographed in front of 'Gegnumtrekkur'

red, femme nails—something that is beautiful and seductive, The Rules Of A New but also dangerous. Like ‘don’t fuck with her,’” she says. Walk- ing around, she motions towards Dimension other works like ‘Sog’ (‘Suck’) and 30.01.–09.05.2021 Kristín Morthens' ‘Ge!numtrekkur’ pulls you ‘Brennisteinn’ (‘Sulfur’), which have the same motif—albeit set in throu!h the window into another world different situations. Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Art Bicnick Almost-touching Ragnar Exhibit this happens. I’m in a house and ‘Brennisteinn’, in fact, has two I open two windows and because of these claws, both reaching to- ‘Gegnumtrekkur’ by Kristín Morthens of the air pressure, I get sucked wards each other but never quite will be up at Þula until March 28th out of one of those windows and making it—an endless mirrored journey into another reality.” loop of almost-touching. Axelsson ‘Gegnumtrekkur’—the title of “It creates this tension,” Krís- Where the World is Melting Kristín Morthen’s newest exhibi- tin notes as she regards her tion at Þula—directly translates Beautiful but dangerous painting. “There’s some border to ‘the Bernoulli Principle.’ It’s a This new reality is rife with sym- between affection and a push- physics term that describes stack bols that indicate the rules of and-pull, which maybe you could effect, or how differences in pres- Kristín’s dimension. Some are the call rivalry. It’s at the border of sure affect the flow of substances same as ours—hierarchy, power, communication, which here, like in an enclosed environment. Basi- love, and emotional and social the other symbols, is both loving cally, it’s an extrapolation of the contracts. “But all of this is in an and dangerous.” law of conserva- alien, timeless And perhaps it’s here that the tion of energy— space, so, for ex- previously elusive Bernoulli Prin- that total energy "It’s something ample, you have ciple is seen in all its glory. For in m u s t r e m a i n this shape here,” ‘Brennisteinn,’ the kinetic ener- constant always. that’s vital, that s h e e x p l a i n s , gy of the flexing hands perfectly But to be blunt, creates life, but pointing to the counters the potential energy of it’s not exactly the top of a work en- their almost-touching—the first type of thing you it’s also fatal and titled ‘Þyngdar- law of thermodynamics trium- might immediate- lögmál’ (‘Gravity’ phantly presented against a back- ly interpret from dangerous.” or ‘Weight Law’). ground of Prussian blue. Kristín’s paint- “It’s both the sun ings. Her works are a whirlwind of but it’s also a wheel saw blade. So heightened, jewel-toned, chaotic at the same time it’s something abstractions, teaming with un- that’s vital, that creates life, but limited potential and kinetic ener- it’s also fatal and dangerous.” gy. They don’t scream balance, but Another shape that constantly rather push the limits of equilibri- reappears in the series resembles um in a fantastical, space-age way a hand curved around into a circle that seems completely outside the with long jagged fingers. It im- realm of physical laws. Does the mediately brings to mind a fibo- conservation of energy even exist nacci sequence set into the form in her works? It’s difficult to say. of a claw—another mathematical “If you open two windows in the law that may or may not exist in same space, the different air pres- Kristín’s universe. sures of the wind and the air pres- She gestures to a work entitled sure inside will cause one window ’13 Tungl’ (’13 Moons’), pointing Hafnarhús Open daily to get slammed shut,” Kristín ex- to the large prominent claw dis- Tr y g g v a g a t a 17 10 h 0 0 – 17 h 0 0 plains, walking around the airy played there. “Here, I’ve painted + 3 5 4 411 6 4 1 0 Thursdays exhibition room. “So for this show, the nails red so it’s exaggerated. artmuseum.is 10 h 0 0 –2 2 h 0 0 I wrote an imaginative text where It’s taken from this reality of long, 'Sólin hefur rauður neglur' The Reykjavík Grapevine 21 Our Picks Issue 03— 2021

Diana scholar—is torical reproduc- a Grapevine tions, Instagram favourite. In fact, pics and more you might have put into physical read about her form, exploring in our last issue. issues as vast as Now, she’s here post-colonialism with a solo exhibi- and institutional tion at Hafnarhús discrimination presenting more to good ole’ Andreas Eriksson Shu Yi: A Lin%erin% The Arctic Circus than 100 new humour. If you sculptures made want to study up Until April 3rd - i8 as “existential Until March 31st - throu!h observa- Until May 30th Sirkus Íslands, over the past two before the show, landscapes”— Mutt Gallery tion. This is Mutt - Reykjavík documenting years. Yes, you spend some Swedish artist personal explora- Gallery’s second Museum of Pho- the tightly knit D43 Auður Lóa read that right. time diving into Andreas Eriksson tions of his own Usin! ultra-lon! exhibition and to!raphy groupas they did Guðnadóttir: Yes/No 100 new sculp- English pottery journeys between reality. Most of all, exposures, Shu Yi we can’t be more their average tures—Giacomet- in Sta#ordshire. painting, tapestry, he’s known for his presents a series excited about For one and trapeze-esque March 18th-May 9th - Reykjavík Art ti could never! So As Auður told the sculpture, photog- innovative use of on experiencin! their future. (Yes, a half years, activities. So you Museum Hafnarhús come experience Grapevine, that’s raphy, film, and texture. But still, time. The aim is we know we're photographers could perhaps house pets, inter- where she got installation. In please don’t touch to document a supposed to be Haakon Sand say… they ran Auður Lóa print-size sculp- net cats, found the inspiration for the past, he’s de- the paintings. HJC usually-for!et- talkin! about the and Gudmund away and joined Guðnadóttir—the tor and Princess photographs, his- this show. HJC scribed his works table moment present.) HJC Sand followed the circus... HJC

March 12th-April 8th

Clay 1930 – 1970 taught Icelanders to appreciate it landscapes, town views of Haf- While ceramic art has followed hu- anew, and to have encouraged pride nar$örður and the Icelandic nature, Art Listin%s mans since their earliest years, few in the country’s uniqueness and the as Gunnar was a great outdoorsman. relics of ceramic art from ancient world of adventure to be discovered • Runs until March 21st, 2021 Iceland have been preserved. That within it. Events are listed by venue. For complete said, there is still a rich history of • Runs until March 14th, 2021 LIVING ART MUSEUM listin!s and detailed information on venues, Icelandic clay in the 20th century Sigurður Árni Sigurðsson: Expanse Katie Paterson — and this exhibition is here to high- In this mid-career retrospective, The Earth Has Many Keys visit !rapevine.is/happenin!. light the numerous workshops that Sigurður Árni Sigurðsson presents The exhibition features works about Send your listin!s to: listin!s@!rapevine.is took up the cause of Icelandic clay a series of paintings which dissect the earth and the universe, geo- over the last hundred years. just how we view the world around logical and cosmic time, poetic and • Runs until May 9th, 2021 us. Sigurður's works are known for philosophical connections between Opening REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM exploring the limits of our field of man and the world around us. Katie Settlement Exhibition REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM ) HAFNARHÚS vision and how that forms the basis Paterson has mapped all the dead REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM ) As Viking ruins meet digital technol- Ragnar Axelsson: of our worldview. stars, created a light bulb to simu- KJARVALSSTAÐIR ogy, this exhibition provides insight Where The World Is Melting • Runs until March 14th, 2021 late the experience of moonlight, Eternal Recurrence into Reykjavík's farms at the time of Grapevine-favourite Ragnar Axelsson sent a meteorite back into space, Jóhannes S. Kjarval—a%er whom the the first settlers. presents a not-to-miss exhibition GERÐARSAFN KÓPAVOGUR ART MUSEUM and developed a scented candle museum is named—is here put in with selections from his 'Faces of Castles In The Sky that creates a scented journey dialogue with a number of promi- REYKJAVÍK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY the North', 'Glacier', and 'Heroes Of Kópavogur: A town that birthed not from the surface of the Earth, up to nent contemporary Iceland artists The Silent But Noble Art The North' series. Ragnar has been just this art museum but also artists the Moon, via the stars and into a including Ólafur Elíasson, Ragnar Sigurhans Vignir (1894-1975) le% documenting the Arctic for over 40 Berglind Jóna Hlynsdóttir, Bjarki vacuum. Kjartansson, Steina and Eggert the museum an archive of around years, and in stark black-and-white Bragason, Eirún Sigurðarsdóttir, and • Runs until April 25th, 2021 Pétursson. Now that's a lineup. 40,000 photographs. Many of these images, he captures the elemental, Unnar Örn Auðarson. Now, all four • Opens on March 27th, 2021 document everyday Icelandic human experience of nature at the present their views on this grand FLÆÐI • Runs until September 19th, 2021 society just a%er the creation of the edge of the liveable world. development. Konur Ongoing Republic of Iceland in 1944—a chris- • Runs until May 9th, 2021 • Runs until May 15th, 2021 Anika Batkowska is a photographer tening, labourers at work, people Hulda Rós Guðnadóttir: WERK – Labor GERÐUR and a sociologist currently living NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND skating, the occupation of Iceland Move As the first Icelandic artist to use and creating in Iceland. In this Of The North during World War II by British troops, Hulda Rós Guðnadóttir's installation iron in her artwork, Gerður Hel- exhibition, she presents a series 'Of the North' (2001) is created from a beauty pageant, a birthday party, a in the lobby of the museum consists gadóttir was a pioneer of three- exploring society's requirements Steina’s archive of video recordings, wigmaker… and so on. of a three-channel filmic work, dimensional abstract art in Iceland. towards woman—their mostly of Icelandic nature—ei- • Runs until September 9th, 2021 sculptures, and a video recording of Gerður's creativity and experimental temperament, role in society, body ther the surface of the earth, or The Arctic Circus the assembly of said sculptures. It's nature is a motif within the museum image and self-determination. microscopic views: microbes, as For one and a half years, photogra- an exploration of the multi-layered and reflects its unique position of • Runs until March 14th, 2021 well as crashing waves and melting phers Haakon Sand and Gudmund global economy—featuring dock- being the only museum founded ice, landslips and an array of natural Sand followed the everyday life of works mimicking their own work in in honour of a female artist. Using MIDPUNKT phenomena relating to geological Sirkus Íslands. So, you could perhaps repeated choreography. Ooph, that iron plates or steel wires, the artist So" Shell formation and destruction of our say... they ran away and joined (pho- really puts our work into perspec- created delicate compositions in Margrét Helga Sesseljudóttir and planet. tographed) the circus. tive, right? space, o%en with a cosmic refer- Thea Meinert present an installation • Runs until January 9th, 2022 • Runs until May 30th, 2021 • Runs until May 9th, 2021 ence. inspired by the apartment of physi- Barren Land D42 Klængur Gunnarsson: Crooked • Runs until April 18th, 2021 cist and chemist Marie Curie, which In 2004, landscape painter Georg REYKJAVÍK MARITIME MUSEUM Klængur Gunnarsson blends was highly radioactive. In fact, Marie Guðni bought a plot of land and built Fish & Folk documentary and fiction to create HAFNARBORG herself kept a piece of radioactive a studio, which he entitled Berangur Name a better duo than fish and a skewed view of everyday life and What Meets the Eye radium next to her bed as a night- ('Barren Land'). This name could Iceland. You can’t. So come learn activities in this exhibition. The goal? A retrospective of works by local light. Eek... not the best idea. really be appplied to all his works he about the history of Icelandic fisher- Make you question the importance goldsmith and artist Gunnar Hjalta- • Runs until March 28th, 2021 created there—they are all touched ies from row boats to monstrous of taking a break. Just saying: We at son (1920-1999). . The images depict with a rugged sensibility of the trawlers. the Grapevine love breaks. It's why craggy weather-beaten barren land Melckmeyt 1659 we haven't yet developed a space on which they were made. Check out Melckmeyt was a Dutch merchant program. a selection here. ship that crashed near Flatey Island • Runs until March 14th, 2021 • Runs until April 25th, 2021 in 1659. Explore the wreck here. Raw Power HELLO UNIVERSE with two images of di#erent origins Wait, another Erró exhibition? You It's 2021 and we're over Earth. Enter against each other. bet! This one places Erró's works Finnur Jónsson. The avant-garde art from di#erent periods in the Garðatorg 1· Garðabær of Finnur—the first Icelandic artist MUSEUM OF DESIGN AND APPLIED ART context of contemporary Icelandic Open Tue - Sun 12 -17 to address outer space in his works, Peysa Með Öllu Fyrir Alla art. It's a diverse selection that, in the first half of the 20th cen- You’d be a little taken aback if your as always, contain the numerous tury—presents the artist's unfet- doctor turned up with green lips, media reference the artist has tered interpretation of the marvels vampire fangs and dental braces or become known for. Exhibitions: of the celestial bodies, which are a giant tongue covered in a dozen • Runs until May 25th, 2021 the theme of this exhibition. Always tiny tongues—although maybe not Designer in Residence - Ýrúrarí remember: We are but matter expe- in these strange times—but these REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM ) Until May 23 riencing itself on a pale blue dot. are just the sort of surreal realities KJARVALSSTAÐIR • Runs until January 9th, 2022 that Ýr Jóhannsdóttir—artist name Jóhannes S. Kjarval: At Home Icelandic Ceramics 1930 – 1970 Ýrúrarí—creates. Now she’s got a Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval (1885- Until May 9 EINAR JÓNSSON MUSEUM studio project that will see her make 1972) was one of the pioneers Permanent Exhibition her tongue-filled projects using only of Icelandic art (the museum is The museum contains close to discarded sweaters from the Red literally named a%er him) and is 300 artworks including a beautiful Cross. Stop by on March 14th, 16th one of the country‘s most beloved garden with 26 bronze casts of the and 23rd to join in. artists. His connection to, and artist’s sculptures. • Runs until May 29th, 2021 interpretation of Iceland’s natural DEIGLUMÓR: Ceramics from Icelandic environment is thought to have Film

The art of sitting on a flight case

THE SWEETEST I think that what they discovered out there, and the pressure of the The Art Of Makin% situation, made that decision for CENTURY them.” In the film, that pressure cli- A Stand maxes just after the group’s act of Since opening our bakery in 1920, we have protest, as individuals begin to re- constantly pushed the boundaries of tradi- ‘A Son! Called Hate’ shows Hatari emer!in! alise the gravity of what they have tional Icelandic baking methods. Find us in stron!er from their Eurovision maelstrom just done and the resulting poten- the heart of Reykjavík serving piping hot, tial threat to their personal safety. Words: John Pearson Photo: Film Still & Art Bicnick fresh pastries made from scratch, every If Hatari had ever been a joke, in morning from seven-thirty AM. that moment the joke isn’t funny Films about them before their Eurovision anymore. Not a sweet tooth? That’s OK. Come by for a journey began. ‘A Song Called Hate’ “It was very raw and you see that ‘A Song Called Hate’ is showing at in the film,” Anna Hildur recalls. savory brunch or taste one of our homemade built on that existing relationship. Bióhúsið in Selfoss on March 18th, “I wanted to make a film about “Some members of the group were sodas or craft beers. and at Alþýðuhúsið in Ísafjörður on the art of making a stand,” she definitely going through a break- April 1st, with a director Q&A at both continues. “But my question was, down, and it affected everyone.” ‘would Hatari cut through to the If you live in Iceland the chances mainstream?’ It was a huge task are that you’ll know Hatari. If not, that they took on.” Return & reflection they may well have gatecrashed Having escaped Israel physically your consciousness in 2019 when unharmed—if not mentally—their they represented Iceland at Eu- Palestinian pressure return to Iceland provided an op- rovision in Israel—and lobbed a cooker portunity for artists and filmmak- cheeky agitprop grenade right into When they arrived in Israel, Ha- ers to reflect on their experiences. the heart of the world’s biggest pop tari’s friend and collaborator—Pal- “It was strange reviewing mate- competition. estinian artist Bashar Murad— rial after we got back,” says Anna Hatari used the platform to de- showed them around his world in Hildur. “I relived some of the high- nounce Israel’s treatment of Pal- the West Bank town of Hebron. It pressure moments so strongly that estinians. Their protest, in which is one of armed occupation and a the tears just ran down my chin. they revealed Palestinian flags on lack of basic freedoms for Pales- You don't have time when you’re live TV during the Eurovision fi- tinians. Although he is clearly an filming to take it in, but I realised nals, was seen by some 200 million ally, on-camera Bashar puts pres- afterwards just how difficult the people around the world. This prin- sure on Hatari for greater commit- journey was.” cipled stand—and the maelstrom it ment to their protest. Adding to Hatari also emerged from their provoked—are at the core of Anna this, pro-Palestinian movement Eurovision maelstrom shaken, but Hildur Hildibrandsdóttir’s power- BDS lobbied the band to boycott Eu- certainly stronger and wiser. ful documentary, ‘A Song Called rovision—rather Hate’. than attend and p r o t e s t — a n d Hatari’s open Cutting through to the talk of dissent mainstream provoked in- At first glance, Hatari might ap- tense pressure pear to be a joke; as artist Ragnar from Eurovision Kjartansson comments in the organisers, right film, “most art projects are basi- from the start. cally jokes gone too far.” As if to ad- The film cap- dress that idea, the film opens with tures the mo- Hatari lynchpins Matthías and ments of stress Klemens trading phrases which and self-doubt might describe their multifaceted which resu lt, creative project. showing the Ha- “Hatari is a lament that is tari mask slip- screamed into the wind,” Matthías ping as they step articulates. “Hatari is a relentless out of character. scam,” deadpans Klemens in re- A n n a H i l d u r Anna Hildur forgot her latex mask at home sponse. thinks that this “Hatari is a fabulously unpre- was a decision made out of neces- “Matthías said that this experi- EST. 1920 dictable, anti-capitalist, industrial, sity, rather than a premeditated ence was something that cuts time art performance collective,” Anna move on the part of the band. in two—a before, and an after,” Hildur offers, when later invited to “Out there, the pressure be- Anna Hildur concludes. “And as add her perspective. “Although to came immense,” says Anna Hildur. he says in the film, ‘I've never taken some degree, they are indescrib- “They were on the brink of exhaus- anything so far’. I think that, for all able.” tion and the reality was that they of us who went through it, this was And she would know, having just needed a break from time to a life-changing experience.” Laugavegur 36, 101 Reykjavík www.sandholt.is already made a TV documentary time to collect their thoughts. So The Reykjavík Grapevine 23 Issue 03— 2021

Nocco pls sponsor us The times, they are a eSports but will help competitors young changin’ and old. “Younger players will have an easier time becoming proper gamers But it’s not just the players and coaches now that there’s more infrastructure who have noticed the growth of the around it and older players who have sport across the world, but the govern- stopped competing can stay involved ment too. The Icelandic government in the scene by helping the new guys,” recently provided the Icelandic Elec- he adds. “For me, this is awesome and tronic Sports Association with 10 mil- I think having paid coaching roles will Eddezen, one of Iceland's top Counterstrike eboys lion ISK to develop coaching courses attract a lot of people into a new ca- in electronic sports for jobseekers. It’s reer.” a topic Bjarni is passionate about—he Dawn is breaking on a new era for clearly believes these new initiatives eSports in Iceland. In the not so distant will change many people’s perspective future, kids might be begging their on eSports in general. parents to take them down to the eS- Iceland eSports “I think the biggest thing is that this ports café to hone their skills, aim and will help remove the stigma around reflexes. A career in eSports might be eSports. The funding will help us get as highly respected as other athletes. more coaches, buy more computers These new celebrities will no longer be Levels Up! and, most importantly, it will have a recognised by their name but instead long lasting effect for the next genera- by their online alias. The argument The dawn of an eSports era in Iceland tion of players,” he says. “People will that gaming is not a professional career take it more seriously and not think is outdated and now, being a profes- the sport is for kids who get bullied and sional gamer is a reality for many. Or Words: Whether we wanted it or not, eSports cause it has the longest legacy; people just play games 12 hours a day.” should we say, a virtual reality. Owen Tyrie is on the rise. Across the world, tour- in Iceland have been playing it for so Gunnar assuredly adds that this will naments pack stadiums while players long and we have had semi-profession- not just help remove the stigma around Photos: win millions of dollars and interna- al players dating back since the origi- Hlynur Hólm tional fame just by popping off in the nal 1.6 version of Counter Strike, before Hauksson virtual world. Iceland is no different, Global Offensive (CSGO) was out,” he & though naturally on a smaller scale. explains. Grétar Örn Guð- Nonetheless, players are gaining recog- Dusty eSports are currently on a hot mundsson nition, more people are watching than streak in Iceland, having won almost ever before and kids all over the coun- everything there is to win since Octo- try dream of becoming the next online ber 2019. But being the best in Iceland superstar. isn’t enough for Bjarni and his squad. Dusty eSports lead Iceland’s com- As of now, the team is in the ESEA Main petitive gaming scene with their Coun- Division league, just shy of being rec- terStike Global Offensive (CSGO) team ognised as a professional team. “We’re slaying in all domestic competitions. always doing better and better in the Bjarni Guðmundsson, the lovely gin- international scene, but we’re not quite ger CSGO team captain along with the where we want to be—our goal is still team's ever smiling part-time coach higher,” says the captain. and ex-player, Gunnar Ágúst Thoro- Gunnar is quick to add that their ddsen, have taken note of the rise in success has gained the attention of eS- popularity and are now visualising a ports fans in Iceland. “It took a while future where eSports take centre stage. before people started paying attention to [Dusty]” Gunnar explains. “It wasn’t until the third season of the Icelandic Leading Iceland’s eSport league when people would tune into scene our streams and give us online sup- The popularity of professional gaming port.” on this little rock is in no doubt, Gun- “Yeah it was definitely after that nar emphasises, due to CSGO. third season when people started to no- “When you look at the viewer- tice me online and even in the street,” ship on Twitch, you can see that Bjarni admits, a shy smile on his face. most people here in Iceland are tun- “I’ve been called out in Reykjavík quite a ing into CSGO. It’s the same across few times by people who recognise me, all Scandanavian countries. For us especially if I wear something with the in Iceland, I think it's so popular be- Dusty logo on it. It’s a weird feeling.” Bjarni Guðmundsson, the sweet ginger ninja The Reykjavík Grapevine 24 Music Issue 03— 2021

hits. I think young people are still discovering this song today and I think that will continue. I lived in Denmark when “Hlið við hlið” was released and it blew my mind. I couldn’t get enough and soon even my Danish friends got onto Frikki. I think Friðrik plays a big part in my vibe. It was a huge win for me when we released our song “Einn Tveir” together. A timeless song. ICELANDIC Valdimar - Yfir borgina SEAFOOD makes world’s best sushi

“Yfir borgina” is just the perfect song. I was 16 when this song was released, I think, and I’ve listened to it ever since. It can make me feel sad, hopeful, thankful and more. To be honest, I don’t even under- stand everything he’s saying with his fancy Icelandic, but I whole- Not pictured: The mixtape Huginn sent us heartedly agree with him. I love you Valdimar. Artist Playlist: Hu%inn Quarashi - Stun gun Here's a playlist to make you feel all the feelin!s

Words: Huginn & Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Art Bicnick

Artist Playlist Legendary. It brings up nostalgia. This song impacted me a lot when Check out Huginn on all streaming I was a “heartbroken” teenager and platforms. probably affected the type of mu- sic I wanted to make in the future. Huginn plays those weirdly special The pure emotions and honesty in easy-going autotune hip-hop jams it just speak to me. The best of Icelandic produce that kind of work in every situation. I didn’t know about Quarashi until It’s actually kind of eerie. Anyway, he Friðrik Dór - Hlið við hlið 2006-7, while I lived in Denmark, with a nod to Japan and South just dropped his newest track ‘Geim- but I just remember thinking how farar’ in late February, which you can cool it was that they were from America. Modern Icelandic check out on all streaming services. Iceland. When I started listening We sat down with him to talk about to them, I could finally show my flavours, share plates and award some of his favourite Icelandic tracks. friends Icelandic rappers in Eng- lish and brag about it at school and winning cocktails. Trúbrot - Án þín that did a lot for me. The attitude in this track is very Eminem-like, who was my hero then. If I walked into the classroom with this in my ear, I would feel like I was the man. SOCIALIZE I might have been the only one that felt it, but it counts! And the song WITH THE Friðrik Dór is the goat, in my still rocks today. LOCALS opinion. He’s got hits on hits on

This song is one of my all-time fa- vourites. It’s been a part of my life ever since I remember and I love everything about it—the lyrics, the melody and the story behind it. I’ve actually tried doing my own version of it many times, but I’ve just never done it justice. I’ll keep trying! (Eivør’s cover of it, though, is amazing.)

Hjaltalín - Þú komst við hjartað í mér

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You would think that a nation their former lover and you’ve that is both as obsessed with got the telltale signs of a Nordic literature and as seismically ac- Book Prize. For can one human tive as Iceland would write a make the decision as to whether lot of stories about volcanoes. or not another human is worthy But that’s not actually the case. enough to be saved from a natu- Granted, there are some. The ex- ral disaster? Do we have that cellent story ‘Eldarnir: Ástarnir og power? I don’t know. Ask Sartre. aðrar hamfarir’ focuses on the love affair of a geologist on the brink of a supervolcano going off not only Hekla in Reykjanes, but also in her heart. Possibly the weirdest volcano on It’s better than it sounds, trust me. the list, but a good fit if you want But if you look at the grand to do some weird fantasy with a scheme of Icelandic literature, dash of realism. Hekla goes off we tend to write mostly about regularly and it’s not that threat- the weather and, occasionally, ening for anyone other than avalanches. Very rarely are volca- whichever poor sheep find them- noes mentioned. Even the writers selves wandering in her hills. of the sagas were more obsessed But that mountain’s got a se- with nonsense gossip about the cret: It’s (allegedly) the gateway to chieftains rather than the roar- hell. So perhaps write some sort ing volcanoes all around them. of weirdly uncomfortable locals Seriously, I’m surprised more with noticeable physical and vo- geologists don’t complain—re- cal quirks, throw an outsider into ally, who gives a S%&# about the mix, and wait for the moment Holuhraun, a volcano that everyone ignores because it isn't dramatic enough King Haraldur’s hair? Seriously! when the eruption starts and good But in the current apocalyptic ole’ Jón the blacksmith mysteri- atmosphere of Iceland, we decid- ously whispers, “Oh that’s noth- ed to take some time to suggest ing to worry about. The real de- some possible novels that other mons are inside the walls.” Then people (not us, we’re busy watch- there’s some sort of silent medi- Top Five Volcanoes ing ‘The Crown’) could write. tation when the main character realizes he’s stayed too long in the town and therefore can only take Eyjafjallajökull up farming and slowly fade into Someone Should Let’s just get this out of the way. the scenery. Yes, basically ‘Dune’ Obviously you all know this vol- mixed with ‘Woman Of The Dunes’. cano, it’s the one that stopped air We never said we were creative. traffic before COVID-19 even got Write A Book About the idea. And truly, what a glori- Katla ous display of raw power it was. Finally, Iceland proved that it, a This is the scary one. This is the More literature about volcanoes, less about sad farmers small rocky island in the middle of one that can take a town, eat it alive the goddamn Atlantic ocean, could in fifteen minutes, and worst of Words: Valur Grettisson & Hannah Jane Cohen Photo: Peter Hartree via Wikimedia Commons stop the world for a second. It’s all, stop air traffic. Located under the moment drama was made for. Mýrdalsjökull, the heat alone from And for sure there are some this eruption would start a brutal movies about it, but no Icelandic flash flood that could sweep Vík í writer has yet to accept the chal- Mýrdal away in a split second. In lenge of writing about it. But lucky fact, were it to blow, people would for you, we’ve crafted a potential have fifteen minutes to get their plotline: Farmers have had their loved ones into their cars just to world turned upside down by the speed the hell away. Baltasar Kor- ash, which cues that classic Ice- mákus is currently making a Net- land rural depression rumination. flix series about the mountain, Then there’s a murder in the midst but there are no books about this of the chaos, and also lovers that incredible threat that Icelanders ICELANDIC GASTROPUB the natural disaster keeps apart, live with every day. And what’s but then they find a way to be to- more, this volcano is due to blow gether (maybe by stowing away on and could go off anytime now. a tugboat crossing the Atlantic? Of course, a thriller would be Rowing?). The scenery around the the natural choice, but that seems volcano at the beginning of the kind of expected, yeah? So go crazy eruption was downright nightmar- and write a comedy. Perhaps a re- ish, so throwing in a few hauntings telling of ‘Candide,’ but instead would be the icing on top. Because of having your protagonist basi- who killed the farmer in the be- cally get fucked over at every op- ginning? A ghost. Or wait, not a portunity, just have them totally ghost, just the despondent mother thrive in the wake of the eruption. of one of the lovers covered in the That’s right! Let’s bring back Leib- ashes of one of the lovers, who was nizian! No one (especially not actually a ghost this entire time. those from the Nordic literature There you go—a love story that’ll tradition) would see that coming! be as convoluted as Padmé and Ana- It really writes itself, so for kin but with the loving cynicism of just a moment, allow yourself ‘Lost In Translation’. Bestseller! the fantasy of accepting your Nobel Prize with the line: “Take that Karl Ove Knausgård! No Heimaey struggles here!” Yay volcanoes! Ok, there are some books writ- ten about the famous eruption at Vestmannaeyjar’s Eldfell, as Holuhraun/Bárðarbunga this is by far the most dramatic This volcano was in such an iso- story of all. Around 5,000 people lated place that it didn’t even have woke to discover there was an a name. It didn’t even bother any- active volcano going off just a one, just sat there roaring while couple of metres away from their no one kind of noticed. Sounds bedroom window. It’s nothing a little bit like a YouTube com- less than an incredible achieve- menter who doesn’t believe in the ment that sailors got the people moon landing and is just there, away from danger in only hours. yelling alone online at bots, only And what’s more—nobody died. to later find out in the end, the The fact that there isn’t some volcano stops, just like his life. sort of War and Peace-length KR. KR. thriller about this is just insane. !"# !"# Add in some sort of moral am- biguity about saving one citizen who had, I don’t know, murdered SÆTA SVÍNIÐ / Hafnarstræti 1-3 / Tel. 555 2900 / saetasvinid.is The Reykjavík Grapevine 27 Lifestyle Issue 03— 2021

FANCIES is where we talk to Reykjavík's most fashion-forward figures about style

Fjallkonan is a new lively restaurant & pub in the heart of Reykjavík offering a selection of Icelandic and Anthony Hoang international dishes from local ingredients. Casual and cosy atmosphere yet still fun and festive. Duy Nguyen Stop by for snacks & drinks, lunch or dinner. Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photo: Art Bicnick Icelandic Delicacies

Anthony Hoang Duy Nguyen (18) is a highschool student who plans on studying fashion design.

Wearing: • Mesh shirt from AAH Midnight Club • Pants from Black Tai • Shoes from New Rock • Jewellery from eBay

Describe your style in 5 words: Goth. Clean. Chic. Ok, I honestly don’t know other than that. Maybe a little bit different? I try not to follow trends. Oh, and no fast fashion. Burn those places down.

Favourite stores in Reykjavík: I honestly don’t shop in Reykjavjík much—I shop online. Everything I’m wearing right now was bought online. But if I would shop here, I’d probably go to vintage shops like Spúútnik and Fatamarkaðurinn.

Favourite piece: These shoes. They’re iconic. I got them when I went to Denmark in 2019 and honestly, they’re pretty comfort- able so they are my everyday shoe. They’re my babies.

Something I would never wear: Skinny jeans. They just look uncom- Must try dishes fortable. Not gonna lie, I used to wear them a lot and I’m not going to get LAMB & FLATBREAD rid of those, but I don’t like the look Slow cooked lamb, traditional Icelandic flatbread from the where it just looks like you have spray Westfjords, carrot purée, pickled red onions, horseradish sauce painted your legs. Do you know that ARCTIC CHARR & BLINI British look where you wear those su- Lighly cured arctic charr, chickpea blini, horseradish sauce, per skinny jeans with cuts in them? roe, crispy lentils, yuzu-elderflower dressing I’m like guys, that looks horrible. Also, ICELANDIC PLATTER I would never wear fast fashion. > Puffin, crowberry gel > Minke whale, malt glaze Lusting after: > Lamb tartar, chive mayo I’ve been really into western and THE LAMB BURGER Asian looks right now. I actually just Bacon, mushroom & date duxelle, pickled red onions, pickled ordered some western cowboy cucumber, rucola, smoked cheese, fries boots from New Rock and a Chinese shirt. I’ve never owned something SKYR ETON MESS CHEESECAKE White chocolate “Skyr” mousse, meringue, raspberries, Chinese, but I kind of want to show raspberry sauce my culture now. I want to represent my heritage. I guess I’ve always been following trends but if we all did that, we’d all look the same, so I’ve stopped doing that be- cause I want to do something Happy Hour 15-17 different. every day

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SALKA VALKA Direct from Artiom's kitchen to your tummy “Every morning, the boys come here to start making the dough and baking the bread, and then we make Falafel For the falafel base,” Maria says, smil- FISH & MORE ing. And many of the ingredients, she emphasises, are locally sourced. Steamed Fresh Fish, Traditional Icelandic Fish ‘Stew’, Fish & Vegan Soups, She then explains where the kimchi Smoked Salmon & Vegan Toppings on Sourdough Bread, Beer, Wine, Coffee & more The Soul recipe comes from—it’s a family secret, given to Maria and Artiom SkólavörDustígur 23 • 101 reykjavík Chickpea brin!s a homey touch to the by their beautiful friend Renee from downtown dinin! scene Taiwan. Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Art Bicnick Those fresh bites! Tucked in next to downtown’s Kro- knew that the food was going to be The falafel very much brings to nan supermarket lies Chickpea, a great, but it was just as important to mind the fresh bites you’d find on new bijoux vegetarian eatery. Walk find a good location. We didn’t want the carts of the Middle East—and by too fast and you might miss it, it to be on the main street. No, we the salad is equally as visceral. but step inside and you’ll be treat- wanted to do this for the locals and While large, neither are particu- ed to a warm, inviting restaurant not focus on the tourists,” she says larly heavy and though I’m unde- whose heart lies in freshly made lightly. niably full after my meal, I’m still falafel. energetic. I’m particularly excited to try more of their salads in the The soul of Chickpea coming weeks. The downtown area The birth of Chickpea And no doubt, the eatery has currently doesn’t have a dedicated Maria Maximciuc started Chick- achieved its goal. When I arrive, it’s salad place—but Chickpea could pea along with her husband Ar- in the midst of the bustling lunch easily fill that niche. tiom Drusca and their best friend rush. And though there are few “We love the zero waste ideology Veaceslav Sirghii. The couple moved seats—even fewer right now due to and have a mindful kitchen,” Maria here unexpectedly from Moldova the gathering restrictions—all are says. “We’re offering biodegradable nine years ago after falling in love taken up by those happily munch- packaging with all the food taken with the country on what was sup- ing on pitas or salads. away and are using environmen- posed to be a short trip here. The portions are generous, I tally friendly soaps and cleaning Since coming to Iceland, Maria note, the moment my falafel and products inside.” has had a few different jobs, but in salad land in front of me. I’ve opted As I leave, I note they also have the back of her mind, she always not for the classic falafel, but rath- homemade kombucha on offer. And wanted to start a restaurant. And er their spicy version with kimchi while I kick myself a bit that I didn’t so, when she found herself without along with their crispy chickpea grab a glass to pair with my meal, a job at the beginning of the pan- salad. Upon first bite, I know im- I’m pretty confident I’ll be back demic, she took it as a sign to finally mediately that absolutely every- soon, so it seems Maria was right make her dreams come true. “I re- thing—from the aforementioned when she said they made this place member my husband said, ‘So isn’t falafel to the delicate pita to the for the locals. it the best time to finally do what tangy kimchi—is freshly made, “This is our soul. All of our we want to do?’” she says, laugh- and I can’t help but take a moment hearts are here,” Maria concludes. ing. “And so we started looking for to savour it. Hey, it’s not every day “Chickpea is made for us and the a location.” you’re treated to such a prized trio. customers to enjoy.” The restaurant was always going to be based around falafel, Maria explains. “My husband loves falafel. He was always making it for friends from scratch and they’d say, ‘Oh my god, it’s so good! You should open a restaurant!’” she says. Heed- ing their friends’ advice wasn’t a stretch — Artiom is a professional chef, and he and Veaceslav have Laugavegi 28 worked in the industry for many years pre-Chickpea at restaurants 537 99 00 such as Coocoo’s Nest. “And here in [email protected] Reykjavík,” Maria continues. ”You sumac.is really couldn’t get that good falafel made from scratch anywhere.” And so Chickpea was born. “I The Chickpea crew The Reykjavík Grapevine 29 Food Issue 03— 2021

There's a growing waiting list at Eldstæðið... also hot chocolate

simply wouldn’t have done it,'' she confesses. “The hurdle for a lot of people is knowing where to start,'' Enter she explains. “What are the rules, what is packaging, what is a quality handbook? It can all get overwhelm- ing. Because I am responsible for a lot of the things at Eldstæðið—fire Eldstæðið safety, insurance, pest control—the Reykjavík’s latest food tech incubator is built undertakings of the producers are a around community lot easier,'' she explains. “If I was a governmental agency, Words: Shruthi Basappa Photos: Art Bicnick I couldn't say no to anyone, but be- ing privately run like this, I can stipulate my own conditions—for Eva Michelsen is showing me Whale Hot Chocolate, they are all instance, we don’t allow deep fry- around Eldstæðið—Reykjavík’s working out of Eldstæðið. ing, we are flexible with our open- latest commercial kitchen for food ing times. We can do what we want entrepreneurs and small producers. to, when we want to,'' she laughs The kitchen is a modern all-white A new solution for an jokingly. and stainless steel affair, with only old problem the synchronised movements of As many learnt during the pandem- people tempering chocolate, shap- ic, especially around Christmas, Culinary community ing patties and packing kormas one simply does not whip up Sarah As we walk around the facilities, belying the industrious air of what Bernhardts in their kitchen to sell Eva excitedly shares that they are really goes on in its quiet, sanitised online. “Packaged food products are looking forward to new blast chill- spaces. a whole other thing,” Eva smiles ers, as the swanky coolers are al- I first met Eva Michelsen, a knowingly. With a confectionery ready proving insufficient due to spirited food tech entrepreneur, business of her own, Michelsen the rising demand for a spot at when she was organising the Nor- Konfekt, she knows first hand the Eldstæðið. “There is a growing dic Kitchen Workshop in 2018. Over many challenges with being a small waiting list,'' she beams proudly. the next two days, amongst a room producer. There is a tangible barrier to full of food start-ups, participants But when there is MATIS, the entry for novice home cooks look- shared the trials and hurdles of get- government-run kitchen, why ing to scale their operations. When ting their product to market. Eldstæðið? “They’re a test kitchen legalese and licenses can stifle that Between now and then, she has and they only allow one producer at entrepreneurial spirit, Eldstæðið is gone on to start Eldstæðið, a com- a time,” Eva clarifies “There is lim- a “one-stop shop,” as Eva succinctly mercial kitchen impressive not ited storage space. Eldstæðið, on describes. With their Icelandic and only for its ambition, but also for the other hand, is a fully equipped English policy in place, it has natu- bringing six food vendors to store commercial kitchen where up to rally proven popular with New Ice- shelves in just six months of op- three producers can work along- landers wanting to share their taste erations! So if you recognise names side one another at a time. We have of home as well. like Arctic Pie, Bao Bao Buns, Anna shared infrastructure and offer a Besides the kitchen area, there Marta pesto, Keto Eldhúsið’s ready community and network of shared is an event space, conference and to eat meals, Ella Stína’s vegan pat- experiences,” she shares. meeting rooms. “Each month we ties, Svava Sinnep and The Grumpy Why should someone choose get a food entrepreneur to tell their Eldstæðið and story. We’ve had Óskar from Om- REYKJAVIK EST. 2012 not go it on their nom, we’re expecting BitaViking own instead? next,'' Eva shares. “I know first hand “Do you have how paralysing it can be to take that 15-16 million leap of faith. So this is about creat- krónur?” Eva ing this network, to create these quips, bluntly. “I shared experiences.'' FRENCH ONION SOUP did the numbers "What we offer is a community," Icelandic Ísbúi cheese, croûtons and if I had to she concludes. 2.490 kr. take on a loan, I MOULES MARINIÈRES steamed mussels from Breiðafjörður 2.600 kr.

FISH OF THE DAY chef´s special 3.990 kr. Lunch offer from 11:30 - 14:00 1.990 kr.

ÓÐINSTORG | 101 | REYKJAVÍK | ÍSLAND SNAPSBISTRO.IS | +354 5116677 Eva Michelsen, Reykjavík's most caring food tech entrepreneur Some of the wonderful things on o)er Travel

A Rainy Day Out

Iceland doesn’t care about your travel plans, you simply bend to its will

Words: Owen Tyrie Photos: Art Bicnick

We had a great plan for this month’s raindrops crashed down on the wind- foss. As in Nauthúsagil, the intense moved to Iceland a few years back. She travel feature: a road trip along the screen and the wind picked up too. At rain had a huge effect on the waterfall. bought the bus from an expedition south coast of Iceland, a journey to first, I was still confident about our It was more powerful than I’ve ever group for only 100,000 ISK and drove Nauthúsagil waterfall and telling the chances, thinking “Ho-hum, a bit of seen; so powerful that trying to walk it to Vík where it now sits underneath fascinating yet haunting history of the rain never hurt anyone, right? It won’t behind the waterfall soaked me in a the tall cliff faces that line the coast. ravine. Unfortunately, things don’t al- stop us from exploring.” How naive I similar fashion to being sprayed by a Holly opened the place in Vík be- Travel distance ways go as planned here, for what we was. hundred Super-Soakers. Nonetheless, cause she felt as if the Icelandic people from Reykjavík: didn’t count on was that bitch Mother After powering through a small it was a sight to behold. The water was often get overlooked when new busi- 187 km Nature. river that had flooded across the road, flowing fast, crashing down hard and nesses come to the country. “In my four we arrived at Nauthúsagil. An empty creating a spray so powerful, it felt like years of being here, I have seen lots of Car provided by: Rain rain, go away car park awaited us, which should have I was being slapped across the face by new and exciting things popping up, gocarrental.is been a warning, but still we pulled up, a wet flannel. Lovely. which is great but sadly, it’s all for tour- The Grapevine’s photographer Art Bic- hopped out the car and headed towards The water at Seljalandsfoss comes ists. I wanted to give something back nick and I set off for our adventure the canyon. from the Eyjafjallajökull glacier and to the locals and they’ve really helped at 9:00 sharp on a grim, grisly, grey Only two minutes later, we encoun- splits off into three different falls me out by coming here for coffee,” she Friday. At first, it was a breathtaking tered the first problem of the day. The along the cliff face. Seljalandsfoss is explained. drive along the coast; an ethereal fog rain was so heavy that the river had by far the most popular of the three Holly was very keen to stress the lay low over the mountains, giving the actually engulfed the path we needed due to the fact that it can be fully en- purpose of the bus as it was something entire area a mysterious kind of vibe to take. Great— our two minutes in the circled—something that is quite rare very important to her; the bus wasn’t as the sharp, black, jagged cliff faces downpour had been for nothing. for a waterfall. Art once again had the just going to be like any other food peered through the mist as if they were So we discussed our options. Art, great idea to go slightly further along truck. “The focus of the bus is ethical watching our little car the entire time. in his wisdom, decided we should ven- the cliff to see the third waterfall that products at ethical prices,” she says. “I It’s an exceptional drive that cuts ture a little further and visit another flows through a canyon, similar to wanted to create a cozy environment through flat wetlands. I didn’t expect waterfall further along the coast. This Nauthúsagil. This waterfall is known away from the stresses of the world, to find such a landscape in Iceland, one was a bit more well known than as Gljúfrabúi and, like Nauthúsagil, where you can get warm and enjoy Support the Grapevine! View this QR code in your so I did a quick Google search to see Nauthúsagil, he explained. Its name? you can walk inside the canyon to get a quality coffee.” phone camera to visit what was up with that. Apparently, the Seljalandsfoss. closer look. But, in what was becoming Holly roasts her own coffee and im- our tour booking site mountains you see standing tall above the theme for the day, the downpour ports another from a fairtrade source. the flat farmlands used to make up Yeah, we know you’ve seen made the river too strong for us to walk Also, her variety of tea was just ex- the coast of the country. This was the through. ceptional—over 30 different types! To case until the end of the Ice Age, when this waterfall before At this point, we were both sick of cap things off, she even had Yorkshire everything melted and made way for So after a short and uneventful drive everything going wrong on our little Tea for Britainers like myself on offer. more land. Everyday is a lesson, huh? down the road, we made it to the equal- adventure so we decided to sack it all Score! Suddenly, it began to rain. Hard. The ly empty car park next to Seljalands- off and grab coffee. So while the day may have gotten off to a bad start—what with all the rain To Skool for cool and flooding— climbing aboard the old US school bus and being greeted When you think of quality coffee, you with a selection of fresh delicious cof- probably don’t think of coffee made fee and snacks made it all worth it. So in the back of an old American school we at the Grapevine cannot recom- bus. But I love to be proven wrong and mend this cozy cafe enough after a long in this case, boy was I wrong. Skool day adventuring. A+ for Skool Beans! Beans opened last summer and is run And a big fat F for nature. solely by Holly Keyser; a bubbly gal who

Owen for scale Holly Keyser with her second favourite newspaper 'The Happy News' The Reykjavík Grapevine 31 HORROR!SCOPES eyebrow goes up. So tone down decision. Just kidding—stop- Issue 03— 2021 the dramatics, for all our sakes. ping smoking and being really public about it was a great de- cision! Now, thanks to your at- WELL, YOU ASKED tention-seeking addiction, dear The Future Is ~Hazy~ Sag, you’ve got a whole audience Virgo of cigarette-starved Instagram Words: H!nn!h J!ne Cohen & Andie Sophi! Font!ine followers all waiting to buy the The tea leaves confirmed it: hair care vitamins you’re shil- The Grapevine’s team of amateur illegally downloading indie films March 2021 is YOUR MONTH! ling. Thanks, big tobacco! astrologists journeys through the is kind of douchey? Maybe you Savour it, dear Virgo, because the rest of the year is looking pretty universe, enduring the angsty should start donating a portion abyss of space every month just to of your salary to charity? Look at hazy for you right now. And by bring you this short column. And yourself in the mirror and repeat hazy, we don’t mean unclear. No, no, we’re not paid in cash. We’re after me: No one wants to be Ty- we mean the cosmos are giving Capricorn paid in gratitude... by the constel- ler Durden. Taurus—it’s time to us a vision that is literally filled lations... who apparently have a open the IKEA catalogue. with smoke. House fire? New There’s a hole in your mask Cap- lot to say... And while every other vape? Aromatherapy? We can’t ricorn. It was put there by—if the Icelandic news source ignores confirm. crystal ball doesn’t lie—someone Whale, You them, we graciously open our named Helga. mystical ears to the cosmos. Speak Gemini to us, Ophiuchus. *dramatic exit* Asked! Words: Owen Tyrie You’re not sick because of the vac- Libra cine shot. You’re sick because you Aquarius Sleeping diagonally and/or so only eat potatoes and cocaine. You asked. We answered. Isn’t that Aries close to your partner they are It’s ok to not be ok, Aquarius. But enough? forced to switch to the other side if the trials of life are bothering Name 10 female directors off of the bed is going to be a more you this much, unfollow every the top of your head. Wow, you prominent event in your life. Ex- Sagittarius you meet on social How do you really piss off an Icelan- dic person? couldn’t? Disgusting. Spend the Cancer plain that this is all just a part of media, stop partying with Gemi- next month studying up. We’d what makes you adorable. nis and let the Virgos around you start with Catherine Breillat. Icelanders are touchy on a number of Bahrain has the world’s second into your sad, sad brain. The best highest vaccination rate per medicine for depression is, well, subjects, which makes it super easy capita. So I bet you feel pretty going to a medical professional. to cheese someone off at a moment's silly now, Cancer, for turning Scorpio notice. My favourite way to provoke Taurus down that job offer in Manama someone is to tell them that skyr is lit- in January, 2020, don’t you? Don’t Holy crap it’s not “active listen- erally just yoghurt and nothing special; In the midst of the February despair. Take this as a lesson for ing” if you keep going “mhm Pisces I mean, yeah, it’s nice, but does it com- 24th earthquakes, your beloved the next time you receive a job of- mhm” over top of someone pare to a Müller Light? Not really. ‘Fight Club’ poster fell off the fer. There might be a plague and speaking. Just sit there, quietly Your biting comments and sub- Another way to grind an Icelander’s wall, which has now pushed you that random country could come not listening, until the sounds sequent dramatic exits are leg- gears is to subtly infer that they’re all onto an elevated stage of con- out of it a world power. Let’s say it stop coming out of the other per- endary, Pisces. Continue this cousins. I don’t imagine it’s particu- sciousness. Yes, Taurus, you’re together: Go Bahrain! son’s mouth like you usually do. theatrical flair into the coming larly nice for your whole country to be 31 and still found it appropriate months. We can’t say yet what it to have a ‘Fight Club’ poster on compared to the Targaryen family but, will save you from, but it might well, you asked… your wall. It’s true, there were be some sort of mystical mon- My final insult to Icelandic culture better options for wall art. So ster. Or mobster. The writing of Leo Sagittarius would be to tell them that silver is not what can this be extrapolated the stars can get messy some- to? Maybe it’s time to stop bulk times. as good as a gold medal. This is in ref- buying instant noodles? Maybe When you lie, Leo, a bit of your Starting smoking was a great erence to the Icelandic handball team who, in !""#, won Iceland’s only silver medal in handball at the Sydney Sum- mer Olympics. To really drive the knife in, mention how Denmark won gold in !"$%.

Is whale meat tasty? Hell, is it even ethical?

Whale meat is pretty tasty; it’s essen- tially just a big juicy steak that tastes fishy. It’s certainly not bad but by no means anywhere near as good as a real steak. [Editor’s Note: This opinion is the journalist’s own.] In terms of it being ethical, whale, I’m afraid to admit that many Icelan- dic fishermen clearly don’t particularly care too much about the ethics of hunt- ing whales. Or shark for that matter. If it swims, they eat it. More importantly, whales aren’t even the worst thing people eat here. In Vestmannaeyjar, they eat puffins. Puffins damnit! I get that being on a freezing cold rock in the north of the Atlantic means that you gotta eat what you gotta eat but come on now, there’s plenty more fish in the sea, right? CITY SHOT by Art Bicnick Somewhere to the side of the rainbow...

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LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND

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“I wanted to make a film about the art of making a stand.” Director Anna Hildur Hildibrandsdóttir on her new documentary following the rise of volcano-punk-magma-pleather-establishment- loving-all-around-good-lads band Hatari. P22

“Oh my god, it’s so good! You should open a restaurant!” Don't Hesitate! Maria Maximciuc, owner of falafel-spot Act Now! Chickpea, reveals what friends used to tell her You only need to type the URL in once husband before they opened the eatery. P29 *

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