January 2017 Foundation. The main concerns six estates in the Udalguri area and her addressed and discussed at the Forum, organization awarded certificates to attended by world-renowned scientists Bhooteachang T.E. and Paneery T.E. for and conservationists, were the practices being elephant-friendly. required to combat the effects of climate Stilwell Road which is close to our change on agriculture and the tea estates; Margherita estates, was built during ways to arrest, control and reverse the WWII to facilitate the movement of depletion of our natural resources such Allied vehicles from Assam to China via as forests and water; and the importance Myanmar. One can drive right up to the of educating the community to deal Myanmar border through Arunachal with human-elephant conflict in order Pradesh, visiting the war cemetery at to help save the Asian Elephant which Jairampur en route. is, unfortunately, on the endangered list. We get you better acquainted with These issues are not only germane to our Bhatpara T.E. (Dooars) and Dufflaghur tea estates but are being addressed by T.E. (North Bank, Assam). We also them in a positive manner. In addition bring you tips on making a guest feel to preserving ancient trees, bamboo welcome and at home; interesting details groves and natural water bodies, about the first inter-garden 5-a-side Over a billion people around the world do afforestation is undertaken in all our football tournament held among our not have access to clean drinking water, estates, water bodies are formed where Ugandan estates; an account of a visit to resulting in thousands of deaths from possible and eco-friendly practices such Nyungwe forest, Rwanda; facts about water-borne diseases. In keeping with the as vermicomposting, scientific waste ferns; snippets about a pet porcupine; ethos of McLeod Russel, Gisovu T.E. in disposal (especially for medical waste), memories of a retired planter; the profile Rwanda has joined hands with Taylors of solar power generation and rainwater of a young planter who excels at baking; Harrogate to make clean water available harvesting are initiated. recipes of some staple dishes from to around 250 farmer families living in Lisa Mills, an elephant conservationist I Vietnam; and a few more tasty treats. two sectors of the estate. met at the Forum, is currently working So, read on with relish... The Eastern Himalayan NaturenomicsTM in the Udalguri Division of Assam. She Forum was held in Guwahati, Assam, on was happy to oblige us with some tips 8 & 9 November 2016 under the aegis on dealing with elephants straying into of the Assam-based NGO – Balipara human territory. Lisa has visited our

14 Telescope 42 Cameo Features Eastern Himalayan NaturenomicsTM Simon Philips Jyrwa – a profile Issue – 19 January 2017 Forum 2016 ~ Sarita Dasgupta ~ Elavarasan Gurunathan ~ Sarita Dasgupta 18 The Gem Collection 44 African Beat, Uganda The ‘Guti-Bari’ at Halem T.E. Executive Bonding, Uganda ‘No Hunting’ signs have been put up all over the ~ Jayanta Sarma ~ H.S. Grewal estate for the safety of these creatures. 20 It’s a Wild World 46 Gardening Khar Khar the Porcupine Ferns ~ Shaneel David ~ Anand Wats 48 Kamjari 22 Outlook The Greenhorn ~ Devraj Deb Vermiwash ~ Pravir K. Murari 50 planters@play January 2017 25 Phu Ben Communique Doom Dooma Planters’ Club 01 Cover: Here comes the Tandoori Chicken to Frog Tikka ~ Vapush Mann Singh Sun... at Dufflaghur T. E. ~ Sakina Hussain 52 Visitor’s Vignettes Photograph: Rupa Saikia 28 Beneficence Elephants are my Cup of Tea 02 Editorial / Features Community Water Project at ~ Lisa Mills Gisovu T.E. ~ Harjot Brar hatpara T.E., situated in the Dooars region 03 Treasury 54 Planter’s Punch Those Wonderful Years of North Bengal, shares its boundaries with Bhatpara T.E ~ Sarita Dasgupta 30 Melange ~ Satyakam Hazarika Buxa Tiger Reserve, Raimatang Forest 34 Off the Beaten Track 08 African Beat, Rwanda Range, Chuapara T.E. and Mechpara T.E., and Teatime in Tajikistan 56 The World Around Us B Nyungwe National Park The Stilwell Road ~ Arati Banerjee has a panoramic view of the Bhutan hills. Being so ~ Surender Jhijharia ~ Sarita Dasgupta 59 Postscript close to two forests, the estate is regularly visited 11 The Memsahab’s Guide to 35 Treasury Doctor at our Doorstep ~ Rupa Saikia by herds of elephants, leopards, deer and peacocks. Gracious Living Dufflaghur T.E. ~ Rupa Saikia Hospitality à la ‘Tea’ 40 Health Watch 60 Back Cover: Frogs on a Log ~ Pallavi Mehrotra Obesity ~ Dr (Mrs) Saraju H. Baishya Photograph: Vishal Mahindra JANUARY 2017 3 Old Stalwarts It is believed that in the early 19th century, when a at that time, the tea division of Eveready Industries war had broken out between the Kings of Bhutan India Ltd. and Cooch Behar, some Bhutanese people had come MRIL initiated improvements on the estate to live in this area. The place was thus referred immediately. The ‘B’ Division hospital was to as ‘Bhutia para’ which over the years became renovated as was the dispensary in ‘A’ Division. ‘Bhotepara’ and finally, ‘Bhatpara’. Mothers’ Clubs were formed in both Divisions and It was perhaps in 1893-94 that the British given the responsibility for various tasks such as established Bhatpara T.E. At that time, the Out motivating the workers to improve their hygiene Division (‘B’ Division) was called Mechpara and the and cleanliness standards, trying to reduce the main Division (‘A’ Division) was called Chuapara. consumption of alcohol among the workers, and The latter was later changed to ‘Achchapara’, The first Manager of Bhatpara was believed to have encouraging parents to send their children to the apparently in honour of the British executive in been Mr M.W. Loss, with Mr M.O. Stevenson as estate’s LP Schools. As recently as on 14 April 2016, a leopard cub was charge of the Division who was very fond of saying, his Assistant Manager and Mr Max H. Button as found in Section No 5/94 of Achhapara Division “Achcha Hai”. his Visiting Agent. The last British Manager was in the afternoon by one of the women pluckers, Mr D.C. Roberson. Smti Lachmi Kharia. Mangra Oraon and Manley Lama who both joined the estate in the late 1940s recall that in the early days, the Manager used to move around the estate on horseback, so the Manager’s Bungalow had stables attached. The horse was replaced by the sturdy Land Rover which could move easily over all kinds of terrain.

Until 1971, thrice weekly flights operated by ‘Jamair’ to bring provisions from Kolkata and, sometimes, passengers too, used an airfield established in 1955. In 1948, under the Imperial Tea Company Ltd, The only bank operating in the vicinity of the estate Bhatpara became a separate unit with its own factory was the State Bank of India at Jalpaiguri, which With two Divisions – Bhatpara and Achchapara – the which used to produce Orthodox tea. The highest provided the remittances as directed by the Head total grant area of Bhatpara T.E. is 1251.44 Ha, of crop harvested was around 11.35 lakh kg in the Office of the Company, through their armed van. which 637.97 Ha is covered by tea. Trees are planted mid-1960s. A mini trolley line was used to transport where the soil is not conducive for tea cultivation, teas from the factory to Hamiltonganj for onward During this time, the ‘B’ Division hospital was the and the practice of vermiwash has been adopted for despatch to Kolkata. This trolley line was also used by Central Hospital for all the Imperial Tea Company Apart from these LP schools, Bhatpara also the health of the tea plants. other estates of the Imperial Tea Company. estates and their surrounding areas. This hospital has a Junior School in ‘B’ Division. The estate’s had the distinction of installing the first X-ray Management has provided a school bus to ferry machine in Jalpaiguri District in 1955. In the workers’ children to and from Kalchini/Latabari 1950s the CMO was Dr J. Arther followed by High School. Fortunately, most of the workers Dr Browmley. Dr N.C. Chatterjee, who took over nowadays are very aware of the advantages of from Dr Browmley, was the first Indian CMO. providing a good education for their children. A Imperial Tea Company Ltd sold this estate in 1971 Library in ‘B’ Division caters to the children who to Bihariji Fibre & Industry – a company which had are interested in reading. just ventured into Tea. Ten years later, Bhatpara was Sri Palden Lama, son of the present ‘Munshi’, sold to Longview Tea Company Limited who, in Sri Tika Lama, has become the Branch Manager of 1997, sold it to McLeod Russel India Ltd which was Central Bank of India. Vermiwash Unit

4 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 5 Old Firing Ground

The son of daily rated worker various activities for them. In recognition of his Devotees from among the workers take part in Smti Kalpana Lama – Kalyan sterling services to the Scouts movement, he had regular rituals at the Shiva Temple constructed in – passed the West Bengal Civil received the Governor’s Award in 2005 from 2012, while groups of singers belonging to different Services (WBCS) examinations Sri Gopal Krishna Gandhi, who was then the Lines sing devotional ‘bhajans’ there twice a week. and has become a Revenue Governor of West Bengal. The Christians worship at the church while the Officer. Buddhist community celebrates Buddha Purnima at Saptaparna, daughter of the monastery in ‘B’ Division. There used to be a military firing ground past the the present Head Clerk, The estate’s workers also attend ‘Holi’ celebrations at old airfield near Raimatang Forest, between two hill Sri Sobhendra Nath Biswas, the Mahakal Dham near the Raimatang Hill Range, rivers, and until 1995, army vehicles would pass received the Nehru Award for and the river near Raimatang Forest Range Office is a through No 8 Line at Mechpara T.E. and the vacant land between ‘A’ and ‘B’ Divisions of Bhatpara. academic excellence while at popular venue for picnics in the winter months. school in 2010-11. An SSB Camp was established on the western border Another staff member’s son has become a Major in of Bhatpara, and Hasimara Air Base Station being the Indian Army. situated nearby, combat planes regularly fly over the estate. On 31 January 2008, a MIG combat aircraft crashed near the ‘B’ Division office but, fortunately, there were no casualties. Various scientific methods have been adopted at Bhatpara T.E. to improve and protect the crops from external damage in order to achieve better yield and increased productivity. May they prove successful and take Bhatpara to greater heights. (With inputs from Mr S.K. Khound)

Football has always been popular among the men at Bhatpara, but now the girls are also taking a keen interest and participating in various District level tournaments. Scoutmaster, Sri Jetha Gurung, had joined the Scouts The estate’s workers belong to different faiths, such at a very young age in 1952. He has encouraged the as Hinduism, Christianity, Buddhism and Islam, workers’ children to join the Scouts too, organizing and live together in harmony.

Team (L to R): S. Poudyal, S. Nag, S.K. Pandey, S.K. Khound (Manager), P. Limboo & Dr B. Mukherjee

6 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 7 more than 200 different types of trees and a myriad flowering plants including the ‘other-worldly’ giant lobelia and a host of colourful orchids. NYUNGWE NATIONAL PARK – Captivating Beauty in ~ Surender Jhijharia Pfunda T.E. a Magical Forest Rwanda acrobatic Angola Colobus. Nyungwe harbours almost 300 species of birds, of which two dozen the forest. On reaching the guest house at dusk we are restricted to a handful of montane forests on were introduced to our guide, Edouard, who gave us the Albertine Rift. The avian star of Nyungwe is a great deal of helpful information about the forest. the Great Blue Turaco – an outlandish blue, red and green bird.

y first exposure to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda was a truly humbling experience. I was posted at Gisovu T.E. MSince my daughter, Samridhi, was on school holidays it seemed appropriate to take two days off from Nyungwe is most alluring because of its primates. work and do some Nyungwe forest exploration Extending for 1000 square kilometres across the There are thirteen species in all including humankind’s closest living relative – the chimpanzee – as well as Nyungwe was also home to mountain elephants and with her and my wife. So we drove to this delightful majestic hills of Southeast Rwanda, Nyungwe huge buffaloes at one time, the extinction of which National Park is the largest block of mountain forest the handsome forest guest house which is situated in Gisakura, a is an environmental tragedy. This brings to mind the working tea plantation on the edge of the Nyungwe in East or Central Africa, and one of the most ancient L’Hoest’s monkey questions: What was this land before? What is it National Park. On the way we would occasionally – dating back to before the last ice age. It is the largest and a hundred today? What will it become in the future? see baboons on the side of the road and we wondered mountain rainforest on the African continent. A strong troop of what other species we might see on our hike through uniquely rich centre of floral diversity, the forest has the delightfully The following morning we entered the magical forest.

8 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 9 The Memsahab’s Guide to Gracious Living It is believed that Nyungwe is the true source of the river Nile, and this being very close to Gisovu, we had been there before. Hospitality à la ‘Tea’

he legendary Tea entertaining This gives us a large area to play brand is as premium as the with. Bright bold print curtains on Coco Channels and LVs of the a king size window look particularly Tworld! eye-catching. The colour and print The breathtaking pace of city size can be chosen taking into The greenery was indescribable! I could not believe life leaves little time for efforts in consideration the dimensions of the that such a place existed anywhere in the world. hosting. With the Zomatos that room, colour of the floor along with It was as if we had entered a protected forest in deliver any cuisine to your doorstep that of the carpet and upholstery or the Furlencos that rent out room a magical kingdom. My daughter’s imagination on the chairs. A bedspread which furniture at the click of a button, soon took her to the land of myths and fairy tales. everything in that world is and can complements the curtains will go a The peaks and deep crevices of the forest defy the ~ Pallavi Mehrotra be outsourced to a specialist! long way in making the room come imagination. On the way, we crossed streams and alive. Some throw cushions on the Phulbari T.E. Contrary to that, on an estate, a stopped to view small waterfalls. bed and chairs will add more colour lot of thought and time goes into Our guide was very informative. Throughout the hike making our visitors feel welcome. and warmth to the space. he continued to share with us interesting facts that “Housekeeping Entertaining guests – more often than kept all of us fascinated. He was very well versed with not total strangers – is an integral each and every network of well-maintained walking The highlight of the hike was reaching the canopy is like being part of this job. Tea bungalows are trails leading through the forest to various waterfalls – the only one of its kind in East Africa. This is a all provided with one or more rooms and viewing points. At one point we passed through wonderful vantage point to view the incredible caught in a for the purpose. a portion of the forest that had witnessed a fire some biodiversity of this rare forest. The 200 metre long revolving door.” Preparation for the guest starts as months ago. Here the forest was rejuvenating itself. walkway hangs across a steep and deep valley filled soon as one moves into one’s new Ferns and young green tree shoots were reaching with thick forest. house. The aspects to be looked into towards the sun. ‒Marcelene Cox then are the interiors in the form This was as far as we had planned to go so we began of soft furnishing and décor. The Then we crossed the continental divide between the to circle back to the guest house. guest room size in an average Tea The room should contain a study Congo and Nile Basins. It is here that on one side of Not many would believe, without venturing into the bungalow can turn a modest city flat table with a chair, a wardrobe (make the mountainous ridge the water would eventually forest, that such a place could truly exist. We did not green with envy! sure it is empty and not filled with flow to the Atlantic Ocean through the Congo River see as many primates or birds as we had hoped to, and on the other, to the Mediterranean Sea through your belongings!) and a couple but we saw enough to rouse our interest in returning of comfortable chairs or a chaise the Nile River. again. I’m sure our short stint in Nyungwe will longue, along with the beds and continue to ignite our love for this region’s captivating bedside tables, of course. beauty and people. I am looking forward to exploring To make the room inviting and Nyungwe in the coming years again. Some areas of serene, items like mattresses, pillows, future interest would be longer hikes to see more comforters, blankets and duvets waterfalls, tracking habituated chimpanzees, and an which cannot be home washed excursion to Kamiranzovu marsh. should be sunned thoroughly.

10 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 11 The rest of the linen should be laundered for that include combs, hair brush, hand and body lotion etc. A few thoughtful provisions in your bathroom could fresh feel and scent. Wardrobes and drawers should A box of tissues and a sewing kit make it ever so be a shower cap, shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, be lined with clean brown paper. Discreetly placed functional. body lotion, nail file, scissors etc. These can be placed fresheners go a long way in combating the musty in a wicker basket in a corner so as to leave enough After a long day the guest may appreciate some monsoon odour. room for the guest to put out his toiletries. The wash current magazines and books that are a quick read basin cabinet can be provided with a toothbrush, The sight of clothes hangers in the closet always cheers to help him wind down. This, of course, is now toothpaste, mouthwash and floss. up the guest! Bedside table lamps and a study lamp brought to question, with everything available on are essential in all visitors’ rooms. The ergonomics digital media; however, if you are as ‘old school’ as I is as important as the comfort. It is thoughtful to am, this would guarantee a smile. have the switches to the lamp and the calling bell Some interesting pictures on the wall and a couple accessible from the bed. Enough conveniently placed of curios in the room should be enough to give a plug points in the room take care of the laptop and reflection of your personality. Remember, comfort mobile charging needs. No one wants to crawl under and space are more essential in a strange room than the bed to plug in the cell phone!! Owing to the age a clutter of unnecessary and unfamiliar objects! of most properties, a timely check of all plug and light points will ensure that they are in working condition. A study table should be provided with all basic stationary – pens, writing paper and envelopes in at least two sizes. The dressing table is another important fixture in the room which can be made to look elegant with some hand embroidered dresser sets. Stock the dresser drawer with some grooming essentials. These may In a Tea bungalow, all guest rooms come with their own attached bathrooms. The A jug of drinking water and a couple of clean glasses most restful room experience are important additions. A set of fresh towels should An arrangement of fresh flowers, a carafe of water can be marred by an untidy be put out and more provided in the closet. Extra with clean glasses and a basketful of thoughtful and unkempt bathroom. rolls of toilet paper and some First Aid (including treats add a charming and welcoming touch to the Thoroughly cleaned and disinfected toilet, sink, hangover cures!!) are thoughtful inclusions. room. shower and tub, is a basic requirement. The As in the case of the room, fresh flowers and plants floor should be mopped with pleasant-smelling create an environment of comfort and warmth. disinfectants. A well ventilated toilet goes a long To sum this up, remember what it is like to be a guest way in keeping the germs out. Dirty wet shower in someone else’s house and it will be easier to set curtains act as a mould factory! Smudges on the your own guest space! Last but not the least, there is glass and lime scales on the taps should be constantly a fine line between being simply cleaned. There is nothing more annoying than using organized and overly obsessed. a washroom where flushes, taps, showers and the Try and walk the line carefully. hot water supply don’t work. These aspects need to A relaxed hostess translates to be checked before the arrival of your guest. a comfortable guest.

12 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 13 Dr Kamaljit Bawa (India & USA) and Dr Xu Jianchu He hopes that the results of this experiment will (China) who attended the event. give a clear indication of the kind of tea and shade combination that will help tea estates combat/adapt to climate change. Dr Xu has done some research in the Kenyan estates ~ Sarita Dasgupta and believes that the African plantations which also follow the single clone pattern, will have to change their practice as well.

Human-Elephant Conflict (HEC) Eastern Himalayan NaturenomicsTM Dr Xu Jianchu with the Author Forum 2016 Tea & Climate Change According to Dr Xu, eminent Professor of Ethnoecology was invited to attend the Eastern Himalayan from Kunming University, China, tea estates in Assam NaturenomicsTM Forum 2016 held in Guwahati on use only one species of the Camellia genus – the Sinensis 8 & 9 November under the aegis of the Assam-based Assamica – which is a very narrow genetic species and INGO, Balipara Foundation, which was attended by a a nano genotype that makes it more vulnerable to virtual Who’s Who of the world of botany, biodiversity climate change. It is his view that more genetic diversity Lisa Mills (L) & Julie Stein and animal conservation. is required not only where tea is concerned but also Julie Stein, Executive Director of the Wildlife Friendly with shade trees, as different species react differently organization believes that communities living very to climate change. This might be a good way to deal close to animals have to be helped and encouraged to with pests as well, as the variety that they do not attack create economies around live animals as an antidote would act as a barrier to the vulnerable tea or shade. He to those which exist on dead animals. To this effect, also believes that tea grown from seeds might be hardier her organization works towards acknowledging and as this is a more natural way to grow tea. To find out the The main focus of the event was on the effects of the stamping products as eco- and animal-friendly, and best way to deal with climate change and adapt to it, he twin threats of climate change and the destruction of encouraging consumers to buy these products. will be conducting a four-pronged experiment on four rivers and forests, on the rich biodiversity of Assam She is working along with Lisa Mills who has been hectares of land on a tea estate. and the eastern Himalayan region, and what measures spreading awareness about elephant conservation can be taken to stop this destruction and ensure the 1. Mimicking Nature: Three random species of shade among villagers and tea estate workers who live close conservation of what is left of this natural ‘capital’. trees and more than three species of tea (including to elephant habitats. She has been equipping young Exploring ways to form different interest groups and Assamica, Talliensis and Chinensis) encourage communities to create ecosystems that 2. Traditional Shade Tree Agroforestry: Single shade generate water and other resources, and conserving and single clone the botanical heritage following the example of states and countries in the region such as Arunachal Pradesh 3. Modified Shade Tree Agroforestry: Three species and Bhutan which are rich in biodiversity, would be a of shade trees and multiple clones way forward, according to the foremost Botanists and 4. System Intensification: Shade tree+tea+rice (in water- Biologists of the world such as Dr Peter Raven (USA), logged areas)

14 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 15 people in villages and elephant conflict resulting from human encroachment Traditional & New Conservation Practices Eco-friendly practices which have been introduced on tea estates with gadgets into elephant habitats and corridors; and diseases such the estates include rainwater harvesting, vermiculture, On many of our estates traditional measures of biodiversity such as mobile phones as tuberculosis and herpes. hygienic waste disposal and the generation of solar conservation, such as deification of trees, sacred bamboo and cameras, encouraging power. They felt that captive elephants could be used to groves, cultivation of medicinal trees, and maintenance them to work as ‘citizen educate people about the nature, habits and needs of of sacred or historical tanks, have been followed for scientists’. the Asian Elephant, thus creating community interest decades. Some of these are complete ecosystems that Her most recent work and mobilizing communities living close to elephant sustain full communities of living organisms. has been in the Udalguri habitats to actively care for the elephants’ welfare. District of Assam where McLeod Russel has two Asian Elephants – Lakshmi six of our Company’s and Bijli Prasad – in two of its North Bank estates. estates are located. She Lakshmi is 22 years old and likes a daily diet of visited these estates and found the Management, staff 3 kg rice, 3 kg chickpeas, banana leaves and fruit. Her Rainwater Harvesting at Tarajulie T.E. and workers most interested and cooperative. The mahout, Sri Madan Mondal has been caring for her for estates have developed watering holes for the elephants ten years now. and designated areas for them to rest in, especially for Bijli Prasad cow elephants and their newborn calves. Julie and Lisa want to raise money for elephants from tea drinkers around the world by branding the tea from estates that help in elephant conservation, as ‘elephant- friendly’ tea. Lisa presented Bhooteachang T.E. and Paneery T.E. with the Elephant Conservation Award Vermicompost Pits at Bargang T.E. on behalf of their organization.

The Asian Elephant

Bijli Prasad is almost 70 years old and consumes 300 kg of food per day. He has outlived a couple of mahouts Apart from these pre-existing trees and tanks, and is presently in the care of Birbal. afforestation is carried out on all estates in patches of land which are not suitable for the planting of tea, and Young Lakshmi may be used now and then to move water bodies created in the interests of biodiversity. Garbage Disposal at Namdang T.E. a few logs of wood from the Sections, but Bijli Prasad These provide habitats for all kinds of creatures. is ‘retired’ and they both live a leisurely life, looked Dr Khyne U Mar (L) & Professor K.K. Sarma after by the Management of the estates and doted upon by their respective mahouts. They are great favourites Elephant experts such as Dr Khyne U Mar (Myanmar), among the estate’s residents, especially the children. John Roberts (Thailand), Professor K.K. Sarma (Assam), Susan K. Mikota (USA), forest officials On ceremonial occasions, from Assam, Nagaland, Meghalaya and Bhutan, and Lakshmi and Bijli Prasad Solar Panel at Attareekhat T.E. elephant conservationists such as Ruth Powys (UK), don their regalia and parade As stakeholders in our environment, it is imperative Julie Stein and Lisa Mills (USA), all expressed their around majestically, basking that we maintain the natural ecosystems that exist on deep concern regarding the depletion in the numbers in the admiration of the our estates and live in harmony and mutual respect of the Asian Elephant due to factors such as human- crowds. with our wild neighbours. Lakshmi

16 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 17 The seed ‘bari’ of Halem needs special mention as plastic sleeves for germination to start, which produces it is famed for its high quality seeds. It is situated in new tea saplings of a superior variety. The collection of the northern side of the garden, and it also enhances seeds ranges between 150 and 200 kg a year. the beauty of the estate. It was established on 1 December 1977 and covers an area of about one hectare. Earlier, the seed ‘bari’ was of Stock 397, which is a combination of Clone TV 1 x Clone 19.35.2. In 1992- 93 this variety was converted to Stock 491, which is a combination of Clone TV 1 and Clone S3A1. This was done by pruning the Clone 19.35.2 at a height of 3 ft. Thereafter, bud grafting was done with Clone S3A1 converting the existing Stock 397 to Stock 491.

Seed-Cracking Unit The Halem seed ‘bari’ is of great economic value and it also enhances the biodiversity of the estate. The area near this ‘bari’ too has been well maintained over the years. Being located in an isolated place with a water body in the vicinity, a lot of migratory birds flock here during the winter season, which is definitely a bonus The ‘Guti-Bari’ At Halem for avid bird watchers. In the year 2014, a lot of effort went into the beautification of this area, with the ‘Guti-baris’ or Seed Nurseries are after 5-6 years of planting. The tea existing pond being dug deeper, and a number of trees areas in an estate where tea saplings fruits are allowed to mature and the being planted around it, including a sizeable amount are planted specifically for the seeds which drop on the ground are of fruit trees. The pond is definitely worth a visit when purpose of collecting seeds from collected for further use. the lotus flowers are in full bloom in the rainy season. them when they grow into mature Cross pollination in tea plants is done This calm and quiet place is a favourite picnic spot plants. Once these parent plants are by syrphids, which are small insects for the executives, staff and workers during the winter established, either by direct planting having a short flying range. It is season. It is definitely a place where a planter can relax or by grafting, they are left to grow therefore a unique phenomenon in the with a drink on a holiday or spend a lazy afternoon to their natural height, whereby case of tea seed ‘baris’ that the mode with family and friends. they produce seeds. These ‘baris’ of pollination is not bees but syrphid are started on soil which is suitable The collection of seeds starts from the end of September ~ Jayanta Sarma flies, such as hoverflies and drone flies. for tea cultivation – a well-drained, till December. The areas beneath the plants are kept Utmost care is taken to isolate seed Halem T.E. fertile, sandy loam to loamy soil being meticulously clean and the dropped seeds are collected nurseries in order to avoid undesirable the most ideal. The plants are raised in the morning. Tea seeds vary in size from 10 mm to cross pollination. A minimum of 10m by cross pollinating two different 22 mm in diameter. The mature seeds are taken to the clones which produce bi-clonal seeds. is essential to separate these areas nursery where they are soaked in water troughs. Those Bi-clonal seed ‘baris’ are established from the main tea garden. Pollination seeds which float to the top (floaters) are considered to produce new varieties (‘jats’) starts with the blossoming of flowers to be damaged and are discarded. But the ones which of plants, combining the required in October or sink (sinkers) are used to germinate new saplings. characteristics of two different ‘jats’, November and These seeds are kept in pits covered with semi-moist to meet specific quantitative and the seeds are sand or sub-soil, as rapid drying during storage causes qualitative improvement of the tea ready by the loss of viability. The seeds are then checked every day plants. The bearing of seeds starts next September. and once they start to crack, they are transferred into

18 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 19 It’s aWild World Sketch by the Author a squirt of juice in his eye. His tummy would swell, round like the fruit itself, and ultimately with a big sigh and gentle burbling he would fall asleep, still on his haunches, for a couple of hours. One day Khar Khar decided to wander and after gnawing his way out of the Khar Khar the cage floor during the night, he made his way to the ‘mali bari’ (vegetable garden) where carrots, radishes, and all kinds ~Porcupine Anand Wats of winter vegetables were sampled, and Hunwal T.E. early in the morning he was found fast asleep in one corner of the vegetable garden. orcupines don’t make good pets – they are those days I had two pythons, a baby barking deer, We did not want him to wander out of the pokey; they shoot their quills at you; they a young peacock, and three dogs, so Khar Khar compound as he might have got killed, are poisonous; they are great to eat – these came home to join his new family. but how do you catch a porcupine?! are some of the reactions I got whenever I mentioned P Khar Khar was a Himalayan Crestless Porcupine All sorts of suggestions were made and I had a porcupine as part of my menagerie. (Hystrix Bachyura Hodgsoni), which are found around the house to my delight and much to the someone even suggested we throw the Let me tell you in India only in the northeastern states. They are annoyance of Rangoli, my wife. Porcupines have big stem of a banana plant on him, on which he would about Khar Khar smaller than the Indian Crested Porcupine, which front teeth like all rodents do, and his were quite out get stuck with his quills. Ultimately a trail of his my delightful pet. are found all over the rest of the country and usually of proportion to his size, like two big chisels stuck favourite food, Bengal gram, was laid out, leading to Khar Khar came to in drier areas. Unlike the Indian Crested Porcupine in his mouth. He would gnaw on everything which the door of his cage and sure enough, that night be me in Attareekhat they do not have the crest of spines on their neck. included one’s toenails if not careful! Soon he grew happily munched his way back into the cage! There in 1995. In those too big and I built him a cage which was kept outside His habit of rattling his quills which sounded like are many more stories to tell about my delightful days everyone on in a shed alongside my pythons. His diet consisted ‘khar khar khar’ got him his name. Being a little pet including how he became great friends with my the garden and in of fruit, vegetables, ‘chapattis’, Bengal gram and fellow when I got him, he would be free to wander Doberman, Strike, but those we will keep for the the surrounding such like, which he gobbled up with relish. Khar next time. Following the Gram Trail... areas knew of my interest in wild creatures and my Khar loved pomelos, which grew in abundance in craze for snakes in particular. Word spread and soon the bungalow compound. Nothing had to be done I would get information of some poor creature being other than putting the whole fruit in his cage. He caught, usually for the pot, by the local residents. would play with it like a ball, pushing it around This always demanded immediate rescue. Thus one his cage till he decided that this must be something day, late in the evening, a villager from Suklai village good to eat. He would then sit back on his haunches sent me information that someone had caught a by balancing himself with his short tail, pick up the porcupine. My trusty Rajdoot motorcycle sped me fruit in his stubby paws and with his big front teeth down to the village where, in a thatch-roofed shed start peeling it in concentric circles till there was not inside a bamboo basket, was a small creature, round a trace of peel left on the fruit, leaving a perfect coil as a football with spines. A quick exchange of two of it on the floor instead. Then with a blissful look hundred rupees and the little fellow was mine. In he would take his first bite, which invariably led to

20 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 21 Vermiwash ~ Pravir K. Murari Margherita T.E. The main pit should be lined with 4” to 6” thick Step 4 small broken bricks, below which should be placed Place four 20 litre empty, clean drums with a single the 1” pipe with a tap to drain out the wash to the came across an article in a science journal which in December 2009. With the use of vermiwash and perforation and a wick at the bottom to allow water smaller collection pit. was handed over to me by Dr Jain, a friend of ITK, the pest and disease infestation came down to drip on the vermi bed. All four drums should Dr F. Rahman’s, who happened to stay with me considerably and gave the estate a record crop with Step 2 empty out in 24 hours, drip by drip. They should be Iat Hunwal T.E. a few years ago. The article – on the highest yield ever for two consecutive years in re-filled daily. Collect the green matter and cow dung, and make vermiwash – interested me enough to set about 2013-14 and 2014-15. The cost of pesticide was also the mixture outside the pit in batches of 200 kg each constructing a tank at Hatijuri Division first and reduced by Rs 4,000 per Ha. for easy mixing. As the mixture heats up owing to then at Nagadhoolie. We started using it in Phulbari and all the other the decomposition taking place, it should only be put We started using vermiwash in Hunwal and noticed Thakurbari estates since 2015. The bush health in the pit (filled to the brim) when it cools after about the gradual improvement in bush health. The estate’s has improved significantly and led to reduction in 15 days. crop was down to about 16 lakhs when I took over pesticide costs and improved yields in all six estates. The mixture of 200 kg should comprise the following: Increasing use of chemicals has resulted in health 1. Mikania micarantha (Japani Habi) leaves – 30 kg and environmental concerns. Vermiwash comes 2. Banana stems shredded – 30 kg from vermicompost which, in turn, comes from the vermicasts of earthworms feeding on plants/weeds. It 3. Mimosa invisa (Lajuki Bon) – 30 kg is a brownish red, non-toxic liquid fertilizer collected 4. Ipomea (Kolmou) – 30 kg after the passage of water through a column of 5. Dry cow dung – 20 kg earthworm activation. 6. Raw cow dung – 60 kg The vermicasts have nutrients that are 97% utilized 7. Earthworms – 2 kg per pit (1500 – 2000 nos) Step 5 by plants, and castings have a mucous coating which (Eudrilus Eugeniae / Eisenia Foetida) Red worm In order to provide constant food to the earthworms, allow nutrients to ‘time release’. castings have a higher percentage of humus. daily topping up of green matter and cow dung So, how is vermiwash prepared? Six to eight batches of 200 kg each of the mixture will should be done as given: have to be made, turned and cooled outside under Step 1 1. Monday: Mikania leaves chopped shade daily for 15 days to completely fill one pit of 2. Tuesday: Banana stems chopped In a shaded area, construct an 8’ x 8’ x 3’ feet deep the given size, as each pit will hold approximately 3. Wednesday: Mimosa chopped cemented pit with an attached collection pit of size 1200 – 1600 kg of total material. 2’ x 2’ x 4’ deep to collect the vermiwash through a 4. Thursday: Ipomea chopped pipe with a tap. Both should have roofs to prevent Step 3 5. Friday: Dry cow dung rain water from entering the pits. Release the earthworms. 6. Saturday: Cow dung slurry

22 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 23 generate in a year and make the requisite number of pits.  The dose of application is 10 litres vermiwash per 200 litre drum of water. This can be mixed with ITK and sprayed, as the combination is excellent for pest control and bush health improvement at the same time.  It can also be mixed with other foliar and with insecticide. From Tandoori Chicken to Frog  If sprayed behind red spider affected bushes The green matter is chosen based on the following regularly, the leaf colour changes and the reddish Tikka – an Indian’s adventures with nutrients: look which is a planter’s nightmare also vanishes! Mikania leaves & stems: Nitrogen  It is compatible with Metarhizium for termite Vietnamese Cuisine Mimosa: Nitrogen control and with Trichoderma H, and has good Banana stems: Potash synergy. Ipomea: Phosphate n Irish proverb says, number of local names for different Get the vermiwash tested twice a year for pH, “Laughter is brightest, foods thereby identifying what was These have higher values of N and K available than and nutrient content of N, P, K, S, humic acid and where food is best!” So served to me with relative ease. Once others, which ensures that the NPK ratio does not beneficial microbes etc, to convince yourself that the Atrue…though of course good food I was no longer a victim of fearing get distorted and there is adequate quantity of each product being made is worth its value in gold! varies according to one’s palate, the unknown, I realized there was nutrient available in the vermiwash. plenty I actually enjoyed eating. For Conclusion food habits and sensibilities too! Change the entire material of the pit after 6 months, One man’s delicacy may be another’s one, the food here is very light and dry in shade, sieve and use as vermicompost. Remove The vermiwash is rich in enzymes and boosts bush pet!! I like frogs around a pond, but healthy – minimal use of oil and the earthworms for the new batch to be filled. health and immunity. some relish it in a pot, piping hot!! plenty of greens. What looked like weeds to me turned out to be real Benefits Feedback received from estates showed positive One tends to get a trifle intimidated flavour enhancers. Most meats have  Vermiwash is rich in macro and micro nutrients, effect on yield and improved control of pest and with the fare on the table if it is specific greens to accompany each. growth-promoting hormones like auxins and disease by the foliar application of vermiwash. unfamiliar. I had a ‘taste’ of this cultural difference in cuisine when I Leaves of pumpkin and squash are cytokinins, and humic acid – all essential for If used sincerely and correctly, your estate will be a ~ Sakina Hussain moved to Vietnam. cut into 3” pieces and sautéed in a plant growth. rich green delight! PhuBen, Vietnam little oil with chopped garlic. Tastes  It contains nitrogen-fixing bacteria like azotobacter I know of people who have landed very nice with soya sauce to which spp, azospirillum and phosphate solubilising bacteria. as ‘vegetarians’ but in due course some finely chopped garlic and red  confessed to have been non- It acts as a plant tonic and helps in reduction of chillies have been added. pest and disease. vegetarians! Initially the thought of eating out would unnerve me and Dosage & Quantity my saviour was the paper napkin  One can generate 80 litres of vermiwash per day under which I hid what I was afraid from one single pit (8’ x 8’ x 3’ in size) to eat. We have heard people say in  Each estate should make and spray at least jest that they can eat a horse; well 120 litres for every Ha under tea in a year. (This I have actually had some! (No, I translates into 10 litres per drum of 200 litres x 2 didn’t know what it was!!) drums per Ha x 6 rounds a year at least.) However, with time I got to know  Estates should calculate the quantity they need to the place better and learnt a fair

24 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 25 Another healthy and Braised Clay Pot Fish grated raw papaya, finely chopped garlic, shredded believe that the word Pho is derived from the French rather tasty favourite cabbage, coarsely ground roasted peanuts and salt to word ‘feu’ or fire. It could be a Vietnamese adaption Marinate fish with salt for 15 is steamed vegetables taste. Make a mixture of lemon juice, sugar, vinegar of the French soup, Pot au feu, which literally means mins. Lightly crush together like carrots, squash and fish sauce. Pour this sauce mixture in the bowl. ‘pot on fire’. a 1” piece of ginger, 6 cloves (locally called ‘su su’) Mix well and serve cold. The recipe perhaps travelled out of the country when garlic, chillies and one large and ‘lauki’ (bottle people fled to distant lands with the fall of Saigon in fried onion. In a pot add a gourd) had with a Hot Pot (a very popular and a fun dish to sit and 1975. Many newer versions were adapted to suit the tsp of ginger juliennes, the powder made of have in a group) local palate. Interestingly, the splitting of the country crushed mixture, white part into North and South Vietnam in 1954 also had roasted sesame seeds, peanuts and A pot of boiling spicy, of 2 spring onions cut into 2 inch pieces, finely an impact on the recipe. The Pho Bac of the North salt to taste. One can never have flavoured broth is chopped green part of the same spring onion, 1/ tbsp has a delicate flavour and is a simpler dish with a enough of the delicious crisp fried 2 placed in the centre brown sugar, red chilli powder, chopped green chilli, clear stock. Pho Nam as it is known in the South is corn coated with cornflour and of the table on an 1 tbsp oil, 1 tbsp fish sauce (if available) and 2 large a richer and more garnished version. I make a bowl salt. induction stove. Toss pieces of fish. Cover and cook on a very slow flame that is a mix of both! in anything that I find myself preferring till fish is tender. Can add a little caramelized sugar Ingredients: works for you… steamed chicken had here syrup if preferred sweeter. Serve hot with steamed prawn, chicken and Chicken - 2 large pcs and a generous quantity of to the fried that I was rice. (Though meant to be cooked in a clay pot, I fish pieces, tofu, mushrooms, greens, potatoes, etc. bones for the stock accustomed to earlier. cheat a little and cook in a regular non-stick pan and Let it boil till done. Fish out pieces as they cook and Onions - 3 small This is served with lemon serve it in a clay pot!!) have them dipped in sauces like soya with wasabi, Ginger - 2” pc juice, salt and chopped I also make a less sweet version to which I add a lemon with salt and chillies, and soya with garlic Cinnamon - 1 pc red chillies. few slices of galangal (a kind of ginger) and some and chillies. End with instant noodles cooked in the Black Cardamom – 1pc I have always enjoyed chopped lemon grass. same broth. The guessing game around the table, as Star Anise – 1pc cooking and found it fun to whether things are cooked or not, adds to the fun! Rice Noodles - 1 small pkt to try my hand at the Green bean sprouts (moong dal), spring onions, Tomato and Egg Soup Most meals end with fruits like watermelon or local fare. A number of dishes, I discovered, were coriander leaves, red chillies - to garnish Simple, tasty and hence pomelo and of course green tea. rather suited to the Indian taste. Salt to taste popular! Peel and chop 3 Pho Ga (Chicken Noodle Soup) Method: Chicken Vietnam tomatoes coarsely. Heat a tsp of oil, add tomatoes and This is, by far, the most popular Vietnamese dish, not 1. Roast the onion and ginger on an open flame. Lightly sauté 3 sliced onions till transparent and cook till soft. Add a mildly only in the country but in various parts of the world. Peel and keep aside. pink. Add a heaped tbsp of ginger paste and fry flavoured stock of your It is eaten at anytime of the day – be it breakfast, lunch 2. Boil the chicken and bones, ginger, onion, star for a minute or two. Toss in 500 gm of chicken anise, cinnamon, cardamom and salt to taste. choice and boil for a few minutes. Add two well or dinner; as street food or in fancy eateries. In my cut into small pieces. Fry till the chicken changes 3. Debone and shred the chicken. beaten eggs stirring vigorously till done. Sprinkle personal experience colour. Remove the chicken pieces only and keep 4. Sieve the stock. fresh ground pepper, fresh coriander and some dil no two bowls have aside. To the onions in the pan, add 4 large grated 5. Boil the noodles. (soya leaves). Some steamed rice can be added too. ever tasted the same. tomatoes and cook till done. Put back the chicken 6. In a bowl put the noodles, chicken and sprouts; Egg omelettes are very popular too but cooked Flavour varies from pieces, salt and red chilli powder to taste and one then garnish with the greens and chillies. Pour almost an inch thick and cut into slices. region to region or large, deseeded and chopped tomato. Add water and hot stock and season with a dash of fresh lemon more appropriately, cook till the chicken is juice. Serve hot. Chicken Salad from kitchen to tender. Garnish with In an increasingly hostile world, food may be the last kitchen. Although very finely cut strips Boil and shred chicken in a common thread binding humanity – whether it is the there is no written of lemon leaves and bowl. Add grated carrots, thin lack of and desperate want for it, or a reckless abundance evidence of how Pho came to be, it is agreed upon of the same. So, the next time you are offered a meal ginger juliennes. Serve slices of red capsicum, mint that it began in Nam Dinh, Hanoi region in northern generously prepared with love, don’t turn your nose up hot with steamed rice and coriander leaves, sliced Vietnam, around the time when the French colonized at the ingredients, but rather remember that sharing of or toasted bread. white onions, chopped chillies, the country in the late 1880s. Most culinary experts food almost always creates a bond.

26 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 27 ~ Harjot Brar Gisovu T.E., Rwanda Mr Ian Brabbin & Mr Kevin Sinfield from Taylors of Harrogate at the Bihumbe Water Project Community Water Project At Gisovu T.E. at the furthermost end of the Coothegim tea growers’ cooperative which supplies 70% of leaf to the estate. wanda, the Land of a The project was inaugurated and commissioned by Thousand Hills, gets the Taylors Team which visited the estate in July abundant rainfall and 2016 and was completed in September 2016. Rseems to be rich in water Project Deliverables and Objectives – A weekly resources. But in reality, years progress report was sent to Taylors of Harrogate and of systemic deforestation has our Head Office along with photographs depicting resulted in erosion of the upper the progress of work. Original invoices of material hills which has affected the along with local payments were submitted and productivity of springs in the Project Background – The main idea behind this records maintained separately for the project. hills – the main source of water project was to provide clean water to around 250 The objectives as seen at the onset of the project were in rural areas, especially where farmer families living in Bihumbe and Munini successfully met. The farmers, especially the women Gisovu T.E. is situated. sectors. Big tanks with a capacity of 30,000 litres, folk, now get more time to attend to their tea, potato The springs are situated in difficult terrain and far were constructed at the respective sites. These were and maize fields. Children, especially girls, are away from the human settlements. The women folk fed with water tapped from natural springs with the now able to stay home and attend nearby schools. and the girls have to walk considerable distances to help of pipes. Water is further distributed at marked Rwanda has made secondary school education carry water for the household chores which impacts water points, there being a maximum of five water compulsory for all. The water provided is clean and both their work and health negatively. points per tank. hygienic thereby improving the health, especially Rwanda Today, a leading daily in Rwanda, found Project Methodology – Gisovu Tea Company of women and children, where medical services out that rural families pay anything between has partnered with Taylors of Harrogate, the main are still developing. Rwf 450 to Rwf 400 (USD 45-50 cents) for a cubic buyers of our tea, who have, under their corporate This water project metre of water, whereas the urban families pay about social responsibility project, wanted to help the tea has vastly improved Rwf 350 to Rwf 300 per cubic metre for the water farmers. The total budget was envisaged at $40,000. the daily lives of the supplied by private contractors. The situation has After the funds were received, construction started at farmers and has been created a huge disparity and inequality for rural the first site i.e. Bihumbe Water Project. The project hailed by one and all. people compared to their urban counterparts, in was completed in six months’ time, by tapping the accessing clean water. The Government of Rwanda spring water source 3 km away and getting the water has set itself an ambitious target of achieving 100% to flow by way of gravity to the main tank. Water partnered to bring water to a sizeable population of water supply and sanitation for all by the end of points were constructed after assessing the density tea farmers. Previously, people had to walk more than 2017. But the World Bank has projected a funding of population in different areas. A separate line with 4 km to fetch a jerry can of water for the household. gap of Rwf 300 Billion (USD 375 million) to meet water point was given to the local school which has This physically challenging job takes up much time the goal of 100% water supply. over 300 children. as well as a toll on the villagers in the form of health In the Bihumbe and Munini sectors of the estate, ailments, absenteeism from work and school, apart The Munini Water Project work commenced after Gisovu Tea Company and Taylors of Harrogate have from other alternative uses of their time. completion of the Bihumbe project. This project was

28 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 29 Makum Namdang Golf - Margherita Club, 17 July 2016

The Telegraph Merchants Cup Golf RCGC Kolkata, 10 & 11 November 2016

Winners (L to R): Karan Jaswal, Vivek Seth & Junior Dagar

CLOSEST TO THE PIN – HOLE NO 2 (DAY 2) DIVISION II – DAY’S BEST SCORE NETT (DAY 1) Gautam Bhuyan – Mcleod Russel India Limited ‘B’ (Div 2) Neville Betreen – Williamson Magor Group ‘H’

McLeod Russel Inter-Company 5-a-side Football Tournament - Tingri Club, 24 July 2016

DIVISION III – DAY’S BEST SCORE NETT (DAY 1) DIVISON I – WINNER GROSS K K Baheti – Williamson Magor Group ‘C’ Aditya Khaitan & Jayanta Gohain – Williamson Magor Group ‘A’ (154)

Winners: McLeod Russel ‘A’ DIVISION II – RUNNER-UP GROSS BEST INDIVIDUAL GROSS A K Sumal & M Hazarika – Mcleod Russel India Limited ‘I’ (163) Aditya Khaitan – Williamson Magor Group ‘A’ (71) Runners-up: McLeod Russel ‘B’ Man of the Match: Siddharth Thapa (circled)

30 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 31 1. HINAL, daughter of Rahul Shaw of HO Kolkata & Sarita 19 June 2015 Births 1 2. MAHARNAV, son of Taranganeel & Alankrita Baruah of Phulbari T.E. 22 February 2016 7 3. NEELISHA, daughter of Pinaki Ranjan Dalal of HO Kolkata & Tapati 1 March 2016

4. MANVI, daughter of Manoj & Khusbu Thakur 2 of Namdang T.E. 30 March 2016 5. RUPASHRI, daughter of Elavarasan Gurunathan & Subhadra Datta of Boroi T.E. 22 April 2016

6. REN, son of Nick & Animikha Thaler, grandson of Rajat Dutt of HO Kolkata & Sanghamitra 1 May 2016

7. VIHAAN, son of Debojyoti & Meenakshi Baruah of Hunwal T.E. 10 July 2016 8 4 8. AHANA, daughter of Kaushik Mukherjee of HO Kolkata & Debasmrity 24 August 2016

3

5 Wedding

6 Jonathan Franklin Babinall of Dekorai T.E. wed Shirley Shalini Mahadeo on 2 April 2016

32 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 33 Choykhana Rokhat AT OFF THE BE EN TRACK Teatime in Tajikistan ~ Sarita Dasgupta

nytime is ‘teatime’ his friends. He was curious in Tajikistan! As in to know where I came the whole of Central from, and when told that I AAsia, tea is the most popular hailed from India and that beverage in the country. I had spent most of my life Every meal begins and ends on tea estates, he happily with a cup of tea, and the took a photograph with brew is drunk throughout the meal as well. Green tea ‘the lady from Hindustan is known as ‘kabood’ or ‘zeliony chai’ and tea with who grows tea’! milk is called ‘shir chai’. The newest and grandest Choykhana in Dushanbe is This universal habit of tea drinking is responsible the Kokhi Navruz, situated near the Hyatt Regency for the tea stalls and stands in places like Hissor Fort Hotel on Prospekt Ismoili Somoni. It has recently been which are frequented by locals and tourists alike, and completed and although the restaurant hasn’t started the popularity of the tea house – the ‘choykhana’ – business as yet, one can go on a conducted tour of where people gather over cups of tea and snacks like this magnificent building. The decorated ceilings, ‘sambusa’ and ‘shashlik’. chandeliers, cupolas with paintings of eminent Tajiks, fountains and lake give it an air of grandeur more in The oldest ‘choykhana’ in Dushanbe (the capital keeping with a palace than a tea house! of Tajikistan) is the open-plan Choykhana Rokhat. ~ Rupa Saikia It is an attractive place with columns, decorated Tea drinking is a centuries-old practice around the world. It has a rich history and in many countries, it ceiling and a grand staircase. Tables are set along ucked away in the foothills The name ‘Dufflaghur’ originated a gallery which overlooks the main street – Rudaki is steeped in tradition. In the Central Asian countries of the imposing Arunachal in the late 17th century. Members Avenue. There is an indoor restaurant as well, which like Tajikistan, tea is more than just a drink that hills, which eventually of an Arunachali tribe known as has beautifully carved wooden pillars holding up an quenches thirst – it is a basic necessity! They believe that “teatime doesn’t end when the pot is empty; you Tgive rise to the peaks of the great Doffolas would often raid this area, ornately carved and painted wooden ceiling. Musical Himalayas, lies Dufflaghur T.E. in evenings are held outdoors in pleasant weather, and carry it in your heart.” robbing the local inhabitants of Kokhi Navruz the Sonitpur district of Assam. The sometimes weddings too. essential commodities. Tired of this meandering Balijan and Singlijan problem, the local people sought rivers flow along its east and west help from King Arimatta, who borders, while it shares a common constructed a huge earthen fort or boundary with Bormahjan T.E. ‘garh’, to keep the intruders at bay. on the south. Rajgarh Ali, the ‘Doffola Garh’ is today known in historic road, traverses the northern its anglicised form as Dufflaghur. boundary of the estate with the looming hills forming a picturesque The estate has a total grant area of backdrop. It is situated about 905.44 hectares with two Divisions, 10 km from National Highway A and B. The annual tea produced is 52. Established in the year 1917, 13.5 lakh kg, with another 5.5 lakh I met a retired government official, nattily dressed Mr A. Robson was the first British kg being manufactured from leaf in a suit, tie and Tajik hat, proudly sporting his decorations, and drinking a leisurely cup of tea with Manager here, as per records. bought from the small tea growers.

34 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 35 In the past, Chinese ‘mistrys’ had constructed a great many structures in this area. Hazira Mohorer, Sri James Yem’s father, late Sri Athai Yem, was a man of repute in this field, having migrated from China before the Great Earthquake of 1950, and settled down in this area with his Assamese wife. He had constructed the Dufflaghur factory, the swimming pool in the Burra Bungalow and the nearby cinema There is a well maintained nursery, with a capacity to hall – structures which have withstood the ravages raise 4,00,000 plants annually. Saplings of trees for of time. The Management is actively Sri James Yem use in afforestation and shade are also grown here. The estate manufactures involved in the conservation of the local flora and fauna. 1.35 lakh kg of Orthodox To this effect, signboards are tea as well. In yesteryears, displayed all around the estate this garden manufactured prohibiting the hunting of 100% Orthodox tea, known wild animals and birds. Wild famously in international elephants are a common sight circles as ‘Assam Black Gun here especially during the winter season, when after Powder’ due to its distinctive feasting on the ripening paddy in the nearby villages flavour. The estate is ISO at night, they often take refuge among the tea bushes 22000 and Rainforest Alliance certified. An antique during the day, before returning to the jungles. It is Dufflaghur has one Primary School managed by sub-soiler is preserved in mint condition in the factory therefore not rare to run into them during this period. The estate concentrates on increasing production the garden authorities, with an enrolment of 240 premises. An airstrip is also maintained here for the Man-elephant encounters take place very often as through botanical extracts, with processes such as students and nine able teachers. Apart from their company Cessna and it is used at times by the Army people have cleared the vegetation, forcing these vermiwash, ITK (Indigenous Technical Knowledge) studies, the children are taught about the importance and Air Force for emergency landings and exercises. gentle giants to forage for food in human settlements. and BHS (Bio Humic Solution). About 200 metric of personal hygiene; compassion towards wildlife Royal Bengal tigers, leopards and other big cats steer tonnes of vermicompost is also produced annually and taking care of the environment. well away as the declining forest cover has compelled for the benefit of the tea plants. them to move deeper into the jungles. Wild buffaloes The estate’s hospital, which was a Central Hospital are seen from time to time. Migratory birds flock to earlier, is managed by the resident doctor and his the nearby rivers and water bodies during the cold team, catering to the estate workers and months, providing a visual delight to the many bird their health problems. It has also received enthusiasts. Some varieties of snakes are found here the Company’s Best Hospital Award in as well. 2008-09. Numerous health camps have been Sri Hara Hazarika, JB, recollects the time a 7.5 ft python was found in Section 35 of the garden in 2008. It was caught and released into the jungle nearby. He also recalls Mr J.P.W. Leitch having to shoot a rogue elephant when it went on a rampage, back in the 60s. Stores Clerk, Sri Ramesh Pathak, remembers the time when the office building was a double-storeyed structure, with the rolling tables placed on the ground floor. It was subsequently renovated to a single-storeyed building.

36 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 37 Waste Management in the Lines conducted by the medical a ‘chokra’ under Mr H.A. team with support from Munro, the Manager then. the Gohpur Civil Hospital, He recalls there being a to bring about awareness lot of Royal Bengal tiger among the workers on health and hygiene issues, as sightings and elephants also on diseases such as malaria, tuberculosis, etc. were ever present then, There is an ancient Autoclave, used for sterilisation, as now. The jungles were preserved at the hospital. cleared by the Doffolas for tea plantation and The Mothers’ Club Workers are encouraged to segregate and get rid only tea saplings were is very active here as functions. There is a temple and a church for the of their garbage on a daily basis, in the two sacks planted as the method of tea cuttings was not used is the team of ASHA workers, who are either of the Hindu or Christian provided to each household, which is then collected then. Usually when there was a breakdown in the workers, who initiate faith. Durga Puja, Bohag Bihu, Karam Puja, and disposed of. Segregation of garbage has been factory, the green leaf was sent for manufacture awareness at the Christmas and Easter, are celebrated with much given utmost importance, and the non-biodegradable to nearby Boroi T.E. on bullock carts. However, grassroots level on enthusiasm by the entire workforce. On the sports waste is collected by a vendor authorised by the malaria was rampant then, due to the dense jungles, issues such as mother and child care; pre- and post- front, inter-Line football competitions are held Pollution Control Board of Assam. This applies to which were a haven for mosquitos. Similar musings natal care; immunization; importance of the girl child; regularly, with other games such as cricket and waste matter from the factory and hospital as well. were echoed by Sri Padman Tanti, retired Sardar, evils of alcoholism; and symptoms of diseases, by volleyball being played alongside. The CM Trophy who started working under Mr J.P.W. Leitch, with holding regular meetings among the workers. A Baby Tournament is also held here, usually graced by a salary of 50 annas. His grandfather was brought Show is held at the hospital every year, which is a great ministers of the state. The Jhumur competition is to Assam from South India by the British planters encouragement for the families in taking proper care held annually, with a large number of participants when the garden was first established. Sri Kunjan of their children. This year a grocery store, termed as and is an extremely popular event. There are nine Gowalla, another retired worker, had joined during a ‘nutritional store’, called ‘Apna Bazaar’ has been Lines here for the workers’ residential quarters, Mr B.N. Baruah’s tenure and recalls Mr Baruah as launched by self-help groups on the estate. This is namely: Office Line; Lines 2, 3, 4, 16 and 23; being a good person, but one of whom everybody The Manager’s bungalow here is a beautiful double- an initiative taken by the Assam government, where Dhunabari Line; Chandmari Line and New Line. storeyed building, offset by its manicured lawns, essential commodities are sold at low, affordable was petrified, including the junior executives. It with lovely old trees adding to its beauty. It was prices, greatly benefitting the workers here. was during his tenure that Mr Baruah had resettled around 25 families of workers from Dekorai T.E. at constructed during Mr H.A. Munro’s time by a Chinese ‘mistry’ called Leong Tham. the Dhunabari Line here, replacing those workers who were not interested in working. Sri Gowalla Dufflaghur has received the Company’s citation for narrated an incident, punctured by a few chuckles, Performance (North Bank), in the year 2006-07. about when a few of them were sounded off by They are wished the very best in their quest for Mr Baruah for daring to cut bamboos and fashioning excellence in future. crude glasses to drink water from. Sri Dharmeswar (With inputs from Mr M. Talukdar) Tanti, a recent retiree, remembers the presence of lots of wild buffaloes, one of whom had created a reign of terror for some time, but was eventually captured by forest officials. He also mentions the Sri Sabarmati Ansari time during the Kachari Andolan in 1982-83, when aged 88 years, a retired the workers had guarded the estate from threats of worker of the estate, the Kacharis, an indigenous tribe of Assam. remembers his starting salary as being 2 annas The estate workers and their dependants participate only, when he worked as actively in sports, cultural activities and religious Retired Workers (L to R): Team (L to R): R. Bordoloi, Dr A.K. Singh, D. Gurung, P. Tanti, S. Ansari, D. Tanti C.D.K. Roy (Sr Manager), S.P. Jyrwa & M. Talukdar

38 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 39 Osteoarthritis foods that have ‘low energy density’, which include Sleep Apnoea vegetables, fruits, lean meat, fish, grains and beans.

The fight against Obesity - What needs to be Role of Medication done? Medicinal treatment of obesity is only done in persons who have health risks related to obesity and should It is important to learn in detail about the causes only be used as an adjunct to diet modification and of obesity to set the modalities of treatment. While programmed exercise. Commonly used medicines obesity is now accepted as a chronic disease, its are Phentolamine; Orlistat; Lorcaserin (controls ~ Dr (Mrs) Saraju H. Baishya treatment cannot be a ‘short term fix’, but has to appetite); Topiramate and Liraglutide (Saxenda). OBESITY Bogapani T.E. be a life-long process. Even modest weight loss can be beneficial. It is not necessary to achieve an ideal Role of Surgery body weight to derive health benefits from obesity treatment. Instead, the goal of treatment should be Surgery in the treatment of obesity is recommended The Battle of the Bulge in patients with BMI greater than 40 or 35, with to reach and hold on to a ‘healthier weight’. The emphasis on the treatment should be a commitment medical problems. Bariatric surgery procedures are besity is one of the most pervasive, chronic Causes to the process of lifelong healthy living, including designed to reduce obesity and include laparoscopic diseases in need of new strategies for medical adjustable gastric banding, sleeve gastrectomy and Although its etiology is not completely understood, it eating wisely and enhancing physical activities. treatment and prevention. It is a vast subject roux-en-y gastric bypass. is generally agreed that obesity results from a chronic to discuss. Here is just a glimpse of this global health Role of Exercise O imbalance between energy intake and utilization. problem. “Those who think that they have no time for bodily Conclusion The most common causes are: exercise will sooner or later have to fix time for illness.” WHO has declared obesity as a global epidemic. What is Obesity? 1) Overeating 2) Physical inactivity Edward Stanley Earlier it was seen as a disease of rich countries only, Other factors include: Obesity is the state of being well above one’s normal but now a global trend has been observed. There Physical activity and exercise help burn calories. weight. According to the National Institute of Health Genetic factors is an acute need to make the public aware about The number of calories burned depends on the type, (NIH) it is defined as a BMI of 30 and above. its morbid effects. Outdoor sports and activities A diet high in simple carbohydrates such as soft duration and the intensity of the activities. 20 – 30 should be encouraged by school authorities as well drinks, beer, wine, desserts, sugar etc minutes’ moderate exercise a day for 5 – 7 days a BMI as parents to tackle the rising cases of childhood Medication associated with weight gain: week is considered as good physical activity. It It is the ratio of the weight of a person in kilogram obesity. Healthy eating habits and an active lifestyle (i) Antidepressants (ii) Anticonvulsants should be started slowly and gradually increased, to divided by his/her height in metres squared. should be adopted by individuals of all age groups iii) Certain diabetic medicines (iv) Oral avoid injury or stress and achieve optimum benefits. and gender. A good medical quote which has now BMI = Body weight in kg / Height in m2 contraceptives (v) Steroids Other benefits of exercise: gone viral on WhatsApp, says, “Obesity is not Classification of Adult Obesity Psychological factors : Boredom, Stress Improves blood sugar control because it runs in the family; it is because no one runs in the family!” Class BMI Diseases such as Hypothyroidism, Insulin Reduces triglyceride level resistance, Poly-cystic ovary syndrome Underweight < 18.5 Increases good cholesterol Normal weight 18.5 - 29.9 Obesity and Health Issues Reduces abdominal fat Obesity is a significant contributor to many health Overweight (Pre-obese) 25 - 29.9 Reduces risk of heart diseases problems like: Maintains muscle tone Obesity Class I 30 - 34.9 Type 2 Diabetes Obesity Class II 35 - 39.9 Role of Diet High Blood Pressure Extreme Obesity Class III 40 - 49.9 The ultimate goal of dieting is to stop further Cerebro-vascular Accident (Stroke) Super Obesity Class IV 50 - 59.9 weight gain; to establish realistic weight loss of one Myocardial Infarction (Heart Attack) pound per week and a reasonable way to take off Super Super Obesity Class V > 60.0 Congestive Cardiac Failure (Heart Failure) extra pounds. It is advisable to eat more nutritious

40 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 41 ~ Elavarasan Gurunathan Boroi T.E.

Simon Philips Jyrwa- a profile I first met Simon at East Boroi Club. It Since his school days he has been was his Club Tea, where, among other participating in various sports items, he had prepared an exotic Red such as football, squash, tennis, imon Philips whom stayed on in this lovely place. His grandfather, Velvet Cake and mouth- swimming and fishing. Jyrwa is a Mr Ewan Kerr, was a Scot who served in the watering muffins. It was planter with a British Army, and later worked as Manager of a tea hard for me to believe Spassion for baking and estate in Assam. He married a Khasi lady (Simon’s that he had baked those cooking, a pet lover, grandmother) and then settled in Shillong. Simon’s lovely goodies. When and a person with father is a retired school teacher from the Assam I couldn’t resist taking numerous hobbies. Valley School, and his mother is a professional baker. more than one helping, His initial schooling She was known for her scrumptious cakes during her was from the Army tenure at Assam Valley School. Thus Simon’s love for School, Shillong, after baking comes from watching his mother, whom he which he completed would also assist during Christmas time, churning his XIIth Standard out delicious cakes and other baked products. He had represented his school in the Inter-school from the Assam Valley School, Balipara. He went Cultural Exchange Football Tournament at on to graduate from Delhi University, majoring in Colombo, when he was in the XIIth Standard. Being Political Science. As is the case with young guys who he came up to me grinning, and told me that he had fond of adventure, he took up trekking during his want some money in their pockets after completion of got those numbered and unfortunately didn’t have school days, and has explored Yuksom, West Sikkim, their studies, Simon tentatively joined our Company any extra!! While I had taken him seriously then, which is 1700 metres above sea level, till the HMI in the year 2010. His first posting was at Dekorai T.E. later we all had a good laugh as he had actually joked Base Camp which is 4572 metres above sea level. as a Management Trainee for about a year, after about it. He helps out with his friends’ teas at the Club which he was posted to Dufflaghur T.E. as a Welfare without any hesitation despite his busy ‘kamjari’, It has been a pleasure knowing Simon…a person with Officer and is currently working as an Assistant and that is the section which is the most popular with a generous heart and a giving disposition. And this Manager in the same garden. He has grown to love everyone! Each Christmas we friends are invited to particular interest in cooking will definitely be an his job, and keeps himself occupied in his spare time his ‘haunted’ bungalow as he terms it, for an excellent added attraction for his future wife particularly in the with his multiple interests. meal. He cooks delicious pork dishes, among which profession he is in now, where cookery skills are an the skewered pork and pork ribs are much sought added advantage especially if they are the man’s! Being a pet lover, he lives with his handsome after! For Simon, cooking is almost therapeutic, and German Shepherd, Caesar, his sole companion in he dabbles with his various condiments in the kitchen his bungalow. Born in Shillong, Meghalaya (Abode whenever he of the Clouds), on 26 February 1987, Simon is the gets free time, youngest of five siblings - three elder brothers and turning out an elder sister. He grew up in this beautiful state, those ‘to-die- known also as ‘The Scotland of the East’, a term for’ dishes in coined by the British and Scottish people, some of the process. The Living Root Bridge, Meghalaya

42 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 43 ~ H.S. Grewal Mwenge Central, Uganda Bugambe vs Ankole Bugambe vs Ankole Central vs Ankole

Executive Bonding, Uganda Central vs Mwenge Central vs Mwenge Kiko vs Ankole he executives of Mcleod Russel Uganda rarely The field was then marked and goal posts made. get a chance to get together with families, All estates did manage to practise, some more than although the Managers have an opportunity others. It was a pleasant surprise to see a fitter team Tto do so whenever we have Managers’ meetings or of Mcleod Russel executives. otherwise. On 30 October 2016 people travelled from far and Muzizi vs Bugambe Mwenge vs Muzizi ‘All work and no play’ is the routine and, most times, wide with families to be at the Mwenge club at does not refresh the executive. 10 am. There being only six teams, the tournament was in the ‘round robin’ format and every estate The matches began. George from Ankole, despite winning. The Central team was way ahead. Trying to get a bonding exercise going, as well as his size, played in the Ankole goal and made some team played each other. Kissaru, not making the The Final Match – Central v/s Muzizi – started well have fun, we decided to have a 5-a-side football incredible saves. New talent was discovered in Peter, numbers, combined with Muzizi. Mwenge Central with Muzizi managing to score two goals in the first tournament for all executives, Grade 4 and above. the goalkeeper for Bugambe and Amanyire Chris, had a greater number of players so the ‘extras’ were half. Earnest had to be carried out with an injury... A 5-a-side field had to be prepared and the task was loaned to any team that required them. playing ‘forward’ for Muzizi. Sanjay played well, feigned or actual is a matter of conjecture! given to Sanjay at Mwenge, dimensions sought from as usual, at the goal for Mwenge. Although all of It was encouraging to see all the Managers participate Assam. Rules were written and distributed to all. Vikram’s shouting could not get the Kiko team to Muzizi, with poor gamesmanship, decided to press with their respective teams, although John from move, it was the team’s effort which was appreciated. ahead and score more. Despite being down, Fred Sanjay had to demolish two unused tanks from the Bugambe decided to rest his old limbs! William led The old legs of Fred and Earnest turned out to be rallied his team and taking advantage of Muzizi’s field. Made in the 1960s, the concrete had hardened the cheering and jeering squads of the better halves great for Central. Alfred, too, tried his best and did and breaking them was a task in itself. It took a long and non-players from the sidelines. Young children aggressiveness, got Central to score three goals and time but the job was finally accomplished with the from the houses around the field voluntarily helped quite well. win! ultimate tools of the trade – a hammer and chisels. as ball boys. Despite a few injuries and stiff legs, match after The rain gods decided to cool temperatures – actually match progressed. Rules were broken with liberal and metaphorically – by inundating us right after the referees, though some strict ones did not let anybody Final. A sumptuous lunch arranged at the club was get away with this. Penalties were saved, goals fare for the hungry, and a few beers for the thirsty scored aplenty. followed. The winning team was presented with two The spectators were as participative as the players bottles of whiskey (for them to celebrate later) which but also got social. Wives of executives from one I presume were enjoyed. estate met the wives from other estates, and families All things, including good activities, have to come Team Ankole Team Bugambe Team Central got a chance to interact with others who were posted to an end and everyone made their way home, some far from them. Jokes were shared and there was nursing weary legs, some heavy heads and most humour aplenty. having had a good day. Finally, the reckoning – points were totalled, and With this day having gone well, and with requests with similar points and a goal difference, Muzizi and from many, we will probably have other splendid Mwenge were tied. After much argument, a penalty days in future. shootout had to be resorted to. Despite Sanjay’s Team Muzizi Team Mwenge Team Kiko heroics he could not prevent the Muzizi team from Cheers to the Uganda team of Mcleod Russel.

44 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 45 Repotting You can repot your ferns in the springtime, but only if the pot is over filled. Otherwise, you should only scrape off the top layer of compost and replace it with fresh compost. Cut off any damaged fronds to encourage new growth. When repotting them, divide the roots and make two plants from the single one. Adiantum (Large Leaved) Adiantum (Small Leaved) After separating, one can wash out the roots as it helps them to grow faster. They are really low maintenance, as far as plants go. Temperature, Humidity & Watering Ferns are extremely strong and survive all weather conditions. Few pests bother them other than the slugs, which usually devour nearly anything. All ferns love moisture and should be given humid conditions. In living rooms and family rooms, you ~ Shaneel David would have to stand their pots on trays of damp pebbles or clay granules. Ferns also love being misted at regular intervals with Halem T.E. tepid, soft water. Some Ferns which are easily grown in Assam: erns are extremely strong, capable of surviving under Dryopteris Pteris all conditions. They will grow where other plants fail to 1. Adiantum (Maidenhair Fern) – It is a hardy and graceful plant thrive and most do well in rich, well-drained soil with an that will survive in a wide range of soil conditions, including rocky and acidic soils. Fabundance of organic matter and water, during very dry periods. 2. Dryopteris (Autumn Fern) – A semi-evergreen fern, it has Taking care of Ferns: arching fronds. Foliage turns a coppery-pink colour in spring, green in summer and copper in the fall. It is known for the Soil year-round interest it adds to any shady garden and prefers Ferns need a lot of compost. The types of organic matter used very wet soil. This is a genus of about 250 species and looks will depend on the ground you will be planting in. Compost is very pretty in pots. considered by many organic gardeners as the most perfect of soil 3. Davallia (Rabbit’s Foot / Hare’s Foot Fern) – These are hardy additives. It is known in gardening circles as ‘black gold’ because ferns, whose stout rhizomes are covered with brown hair of the many purposes it can fulfill. Organic materials are piled in Davallia Davallia tipped with white, which make them look like hare or rabbit’s layers in a compost bin or in a heap, soil and moisture are then feet or in some species, are scaly in appearance. added and the materials are allowed to decompose. The result 4. Pityrogramma calomemelanos (Golden Fern) – The back of is a rich, dark coloured loam that enriches and conditions any the leaves of this species are covered with a yellow or white garden soil. Most ferns have tender, delicate roots adapted to waxy powder. the light soil. The right compost has to be free draining so that 5. Nephrolepis – The curving, feathery, bright green fronds of the roots never get waterlogged. The compost should never be Nephrolepis are very attractive. It is the most popular and allowed to dry out. This might mean you have to water the plant hardy house plant among ferns. There are about 30 species a little every single day in a warm, dry atmosphere. of it, such as Fishtail fern, Sword fern, Boston fern, Dwarf Light Boston fern, Fluffy ruffles, Muscosa, Smithi. Although ferns grow in moist, shady places, this does not mean 6. Platycerium (Staghorn) – Its name is derived from the Greek that they need no light. You will want to give your ferns a position Golden Fern Staghorn words ‘platys’ (broad), and ‘keras’ (horn), alluding to the near a window that gets the morning or late afternoon sunlight, shape of the leaves. An attractive house plant, it has an keeping them away from strong sunshine, especially during the unusual shape and leaves which look like antlers, broadening summer months. Direct sunlight will make them lose their leaves at the tips. or turn their fronds yellow. Keep your ferns in shady areas as 7. Pteris – These ferns have elongated leaves in some species, long as you give them regular breaks in bright light. Most ferns often with an attractive white band in the centre. There are do not like the cold. Don’t feed your ferns in the winter because about 280 species of it. they rest during this period. In order to keep the air around your So, enjoy growing these beautiful and graceful plants, which will ferns moist, mist them often. definitely bring a lot of joy to your heart and home.

46 JANUARY 2017 Nephrolepis Nephrolepis JANUARY 2017 47 sometimes get the better of you, the drill that has skelter. This variety show continues till such time gotten so much into our system that we sometimes the guest of honour departs the estate. take it for granted in the whirlpool of life. I am Looking back, I believe I’ve been fortunate enough reminded of an anecdote. A contemporary of mine to be a part of this calm yet crazy life on the estate. had once recommended an applicant seeking money It most certainly has a lot to offer to everyone here. from the PF account to the hospital instead of to the PF clerk thinking him to be medically unfit! Beyond all the IFs and BUTs, there can always be seen a ray of contentment and at the end of the ‘Kamjari’ and pandemonium sometimes run on day, you find yourself basking in it. Tea life is truly The Greenhorn parallel lines and especially the morning ‘kamjari’, what you make of it every day, every moment and when you haven’t had a good night’s rest, thanks ~ Devraj Deb to the previous evening’s activities. At this point, in order to understand it, you have to experience Behali T.E. the last thing you require is a ‘visit’ which often it. Surrounded by lush vegetation and the grand comes with very little time to prepare, leaving wilderness, life on the Tea Estate, in my opinion, every ‘gunman’ on the property firing helter- is truly unmatched. amjari – the first thing on your mind as wardrobe. During my first cold weather months, you wake up and also the last till you turn I couldn’t help but be amused by the fact that every in for the day – is essentially an assembly planter was clad in half a dozen layers of clothing whereK workers are allotted their daily tasks on an from head to hips, leaving the lower half almost estate. bare, with just shorts accompanied by shoes and I joined my first estate in Assam in the year 2011 socks! Of course, I too joined this weirdly clothed and the memory of it is still etched clearly in my gang as is the norm here! The club culture here mind. For the most part, in the initial weeks you are indeed fosters a sense of privilege and pride to just filling in proxy. At this time, any young trainee every planter as they take this opportunity to douse is trying to fit into the groove and understand the the tension of their ‘kamjaris’ with the help of the endless systems that operate on a tea estate. It ‘mighty spirit’. Tailored trousers and shirts tucked wasn’t long before I had my first interaction with in neatly as we herald the evening to the strains of my Manager, an upright ‘Manekshaw’ look-alike, slow rock music, usually leaves us bedraggled by fierce at work but rather warm in the clubhouse. the end of the day, thanks to the latest Bollywood First lesson learnt - ‘work hard, party harder’. item numbers, to which everyone shakes a leg on The initial weeks were an introduction to the dance floor. Be not mistaken, for though we ‘digdaari’, a word that was on the lips of every are in the midst of the unadulterated serenity of worker within the garden. They would be like, nature, everyone on the estates keeps abreast of “Saab, yeh kaam toh digdaari hai”, (‘this work is all developments in the glitzy world of Bollywood! difficult’), which was but mere reluctance on their Timeless as it is, ‘kamjari’ involves any and every part, and more of an attempt to test the young movement on an estate: a highly polarized subject, greenhorn planters. But once you’ve worked which would start from allotment of work (literal your way through and developed a rapport with meaning), to digging something out of the blue the workforce, ‘digdaari’ is no more a ‘digdaari’. as requested by the Burra Memsa’ab, which Kamjari can be regimented from operations to the only enhances your efficiency bar. ‘Kamjari’ can

48 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 49 are celebrated to keep the feeling of togetherness and sense of belonging alive in everyone’s heart, regardless of creed or religion. The celebrations do not stop here. There is the Mid- Rains Dance and the Swimming Gala to relax and revive the spirits of the members during the peak season. This is followed by the Men’s Night, which brings out the ‘Masterchef’ among the planters. On this evening the men take charge of the cooking pots and serve some really delicious dishes, giving a welcome respite to all the ladies. The season is then wrapped up with a Flower Show and the Annual Club Meet in the cold weather. The Doom Dooma Planters’ Club boasts eight tennis courts, a squash court, swimming pool, badminton The fortnightly club nights are equally enjoyable, with regular Tombola and movies being organized for court and the very famous Samdang Golf Course with the entertainment of the members. And not to forget, a small club house, situated near the main building. It all the much awaited events and happenings here are also offers a treat for people seeking some indoor fun, only made possible with the sheer dedication, efforts with a billiards room; a well-stocked library which and organizing talents of the ladies of the club. None adds to a reader’s delight and a cinema hall which of these occasions would be as much fun without can easily entertain almost 150 movie fanatics at a their efforts and zeal in putting up a memorable time. Moreover, there is a bar and an additional air- show every single time. conditioned ‘Snuggery’ bar. To sum up the club life here at Doom Dooma Planters’ Apart from sports, the club also hosts various other Club, one can say that this is one of the warmest and Doom Dooma Planters’ Club get-togethers. The men out here belong to one breed – most welcoming hubs of the Planters. It definitely ‘The Planters!’ Still, to value all traditional, cultural and is a treasured journey of fun, games, laughter and - an Arena of Fun religious sentiments, various festivals are celebrated memories in a Planter’s life, with a lot of bonding ~ Vapush Mann Singh with equal high spirits and enthusiasm. Right from among all members who gather here from different Bihu to Diwali, Holi to Christmas, all these festivals companies in the vicinity. PhuBen, Vietnam

oom Dooma Planters’ Club, an emblem of great strength and solidarity amongst the Tea community, was established in the Dyear 1895 and had its roots in a building near the present football field in the main town of Doom Dooma. It was only in the year 1962, that the need for a more central and suitable location was felt. Hence the club was moved to its present site at Raidang T.E. away from the hustle and bustle of town life. Even today the club continues to narrate the glorious traditions of the planters’ fraternity and its 120 years of existence.

50 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 51 By 2013 I would find my reduce conflicts and live more safely with elephants: way to Assam as part of Photograph courtesy Lisa Mills 1. Keep your distance from elephants. Human a U.S. Fish and Wildlife presence is a stress-inducing factor for elephants, Service supported project especially when they are protecting their young called Elephants on the or a dominant male elephant is protecting a herd. Line. We were looking High levels of stress can lead normally calm for opportunities to elephants to become quite dangerous. help communities on the front lines of elephant 2. Stay calm and let elephants pass freely. Elephants conservation and human- need to move to water, to forage areas, and to elephant conflict, and it relatively undisturbed areas away from humans. was my first chance to Elephants will tend to eat or drink what they visit the tea estates of need at the time and then move onward after a Assam and see elephants short time if their movements are not blocked by Elephants moving through tea fences, roads or onlookers. properties. Our team set 3. Do not throw objects, burst crackers, yell or honk a goal to address habitat horns, or otherwise harass elephants to scare degradation in local are my them away. Elephants need to move between the protected areas after remaining habitat fragments and waterways, so decades of encroachment, you can expect an occasional visit by elephant illegal logging, and Cup of Tea herds or lone elephants when in elephant country. firewood gathering had forced elephants to seek 4. If the situation is escalating dangerously then it forage outside of the is time to contact the Forest Department. They protected areas. can help monitor the situation and guide the Elephants are the largest community on how to stay safe. In some cases of the land animals, and the authorities will take action to guide elephants under natural conditions back towards natural areas. come from the southeastern U.S. where tea from Assam can be found can be found foraging 16 – 18 out of 24 hours per As long as elephants have enough food, fresh water, on the table at almost every meal, and best loved as an ice cold day. Their great nutritional requirements drive their and space away from people, there will be hope of refreshment during the long hot days of summer. My first introduction hunger, and when they take a rest in tea estates they continued coexistence between people and Asian Ito the connection between tea and elephants was in 2010. I was living in are escaping the near-constant stress of interactions elephants. Bhutan and working on a project to help develop ways that communities with humans, and often baby elephants are born Our newest effort in partnership with the Wildlife could reduce human-elephant conflict. at these times. They don’t eat tea plants, so resting without access to natural forage during the day has Friendly Enterprise Network, the development of In researching information about Bhutan’s elephants, which reportedly TM its costs, and crop and home raiding at night gives an Elephant Friendly Tea certification program, is were spending a part of their year across the border in India, ~ Lisa Mills elephants a bad reputation in the tea growing areas open to tea companies interested in taking steps to I stumbled upon news of the conflicts between elephants and people University of of Assam. At night, under the cover of darkness, the support elephant conservation and human-elephant that accompanied their movements into India. Notably, tea estates were elephants often enter the tea workers’ Lines, crop conflict reduction. We expect a price premium for Montana reported to be destinations for elephants seeking refuge as they moved fields, and nearby villages seeking food. This leads tea from estates that implement the certification USA about their range. The stories of baby elephants being born in the tea to man-elephant conflict that can have devastating standards and expect a retail sales percentage to gardens intrigued me, while the frightening accounts of conflict between consequences. Through our project with Elephants come back to tea growing communities for elephant man and elephant when elephants moved into nearby villages sent shivers on the Line, we developed some elephant safety conservation and human-elephant conflict reduction up my spine. suggestions for tea growing communities to help activities.

52 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 53 Betelnuts Those Wonderful Years

~ Satyakam Hazarika Guwahati Yam

nitially, we could not accept my transfer from with the other in roughness and cruelty to the Herds of elephants crossed the river from the reserve tiger or two if they get in my way, but I have absolutely Dehing T.E. to Bhooteachang T.E. on a very happy plying vehicles and their users! It so happened that, forest on the other bank and stayed in our forest for no enmity towards you. Therefore, please leave my note. After five long years at Romai, Dehing was unknowingly, I took the worst one! After traversing days together. One could never tire of watching these path and don’t compel me to use the gun against you.” Isuch a nice break, which we never thought would end a distance of as little as 12 km from Balipara to graceful animals. According to him the wise animal listened and cleared the road for him to continue his journey deeper into the in just two and a half years. Rangapara in more than forty minutes over endless With typical riverine topography, the Sections close to jungle. Luck was not on his side that day, as there was Though my personal effects were sent as scheduled to potholes, this final part of the journey was definitely the forest had narrow roads with twists and turns, ups no sign of any deer. Instead, a little later, he spotted a Bhooteachang, later developments changed my place not welcome! and downs and ‘hullas’ in between. While driving on huge tiger at some distance. He reached for his gun and of posting to Tarajulie T.E. where I arrived on the these roads it was difficult for someone new to guess The days at Tarajulie started on a low note due to this realized that the cartridges loaded were not lethal ones appointed date. which way to take, so one might accidentally have got initiation. Gradually, however, our love for the place for the big cat. He checked his ammunition bag but very close to the elephants sitting in the ‘hullas’ hidden The drive to Tarajulie from Balipara was pretty rough grew due to its sheer beauty. It had two lovely lakes and could not find the right ones, so he decided against firing from sight. Therefore, I initially took one of the Babus on my new Esteem car. This entry-level sedan was a as a wounded tiger would be much more dangerous to one beautiful forest of tall Cassia trees on the banks of (Staff members) with me while driving around those handle. Without losing any time he climbed onto a tall prized possession in those days. The final challenge the Gabhru River. This big river continued to amaze us Sections. actually lay in the last bit of road from Rangapara throughout the year with its fury in the summer and tree and waited for the tiger to leave. But the tiger did The picture of Tarajulie will remain incomplete without town to Tarajulie. There were three roads connecting serenity in winter. The tall Cassia trees in the forest set not leave as it had also spotted him! Seeing no other way the stories about this particular Babu. He told me that Tarajulie to Rangapara and each one was competing yellow flames in the sky during the flowering season. out, he got hold of the hanging creepers and swung from his knowledge of the place dated back to the days when one tree to another in the thick forest, until he reached the vicinity was entirely covered with thick forest. In the safety of Bhalukpong, a few kilometres away! those days, he used to go out hunting quite often and That evening, I told this story to the other executives of also guided many British planters on their hunting trips the estate and we all had a good laugh. All of them knew into the thick jungle. (Hunting, in those days, was an that he was a compulsive, but harmless, liar. This made accepted sport.) Even after the British left he continued him happy while providing free entertainment to others. with his passion for hunting while the forests were not He was also believed to have said that the betel nuts that fully destroyed. He said that on one of his trips, as he grew in his village home were as big as coconuts while the went a little deeper into the jungle, he found a huge ‘Kath Aloos’ (a kind of yam) were so huge that once dug tusker in front of him, blocking his way. When I asked out of the ground, the craters they left made ponds to breed what he had done at that point, the Babu looked at me fish in! and, probably remembering that just the day before I had asked the workers to perform Ganesh Puja to avert any We fondly remember those days in different estates, elephant depredation, he tuned into my wavelength and when we lived so close to beautiful Mother Nature and told me that he had knelt in front of the elephant, gun could interact with so many interesting people who, in in hand, and prayed, saying, “Hey Gajraj, I have come their own ways, contributed immensely towards our here only to hunt deer and perhaps I will have to kill a happiness and brightened up those wonderful years.

54 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 55 d Aro leader, Chiang Kai-Shek, after General Joseph improved relations between India and China, there orl un W d W. Stilwell, an American who was the Deputy is an increase in travel and the Pangsau Pass also

e U Supreme Commander of the Allied Forces. gets a fairly large numbers of tourists. The part of h s the road in Assam and Arunachal is in very good T The invasion of condition but once in Burma, it is, unfortunately, Burma (Myanmar) barely motorable. As we approach the Ledo Road, by the Japanese the drive through the lush green tea plantations forces, led to the of Upper Assam is beautiful. The drive gives us a closure of the view of the open coalfields of Ledo, as also of the Burma Road which was the only route to war-torn China The Stilwell from India. Thus, the Ledo Road was built. As Burma was Road controlled by the Japanese, the information on topography, soil and rivers could not be acquired beforehand and these problems were dealt with as the construction went on. It is said that when flying over the Hukawing valley in Burma during the monsoon, Lord Mountbatten asked Lekhapani Railway his staff the name of the river below them. An Starting at Ledo, 8 km from our estates in Station known as ~ Arati Banerjee officer replied, “It is not a river. It is the Ledo Margherita Circle, Assam, the road passes through the Railways’ Last Road.” Bogapani T.E. Burma, reaching Kunming in China. The building Frontier, once a of this road which was once termed ‘impossible’, The First Survey major coal loading is a story about determination and bravery in the terminal of India. times of great danger and difficulty. The Chinese army, Indian soldiers and civilians toiled side by side, fighting the tough terrain in which a number of lives were lost. On 11 February 1945, it was the drive on the Stilwell Road which led the Allied forces to victory over the Japanese army. Since the

Oldest measures are the safest… One of the boldest steps in engineering was the one taken in the construction of the Stilwell Road, during World War II in the year 1942. It was initially named Ledo Road and later renamed by Chinese Nationalist

56 JANUARY 2017 JANUARY 2017 57 The small town gives us a glimpse of the Burmese way of life. We Doctor at our Doorstep see sandalwood-smeared faces of women manning s children, when the small shops where we suffered from various ailments one can get a variety Asuch as colds, fever, cough, of local knives in different sizes, some Burmese bruises, and so on, our brands of sweets and soaps, as well as local beer parents and grandparents and cigars, not forgetting the delicious ethnic food. would tend to us with It was very surprising to see the people there could simple remedies made from manage to converse in Nagamese along with a little herbs and medicinal plants, and we would soon be back English. One can buy colourful ‘Htamein’ worn by on our feet. Sure, one does the women and “Longyi” by the men, in Burma. need medication, but why don’t we also look around The only vehicles that can be seen are the Chinese us and utilise the numerous indigenous medicinal herbs dirt bikes which seem to be used the most, as also which grow with such gay abandon? We can make use the trishaws which are locally known as ‘saiq-ka’, of these for immediate relief, as has been done from time available for locals as well as for tourists. immemorial. The other day I had this agonising body ache due to flu. In Jairampur there is a World War II cemetery, Friends from the neighbouring garden sent over this herbal iceberg… now I leave the rest to you, to discover and to which was discovered only in 2010, reminding us concoction made by their ‘mali’, to counteract it. Bitter as marvel at the tiny miracles surrounding us, just waiting it was, I swallowed the mixture and would you believe it, of the lives lost in China, Burma and India. Once to be found! we enter Arunachal, we cross beautiful streams and after a nap, I found the pain had miraculously disappeared! So, while admiring Mother Nature’s beauty all around pass by small ethnic houses before we reach the last Yes, I did identify a few ingredients which went into it –herbs and fruits readily available here. Then there was us, one should take advantage of her gift to us, of all her check-post of the Indian Army at Nampong. After a this time when a roadside ‘samosa’ wreaked havoc with plants which heal. short uphill drive we reach the place where stands my digestive system. My mother picked these leaves from “These people have learned not from books, but in the a board with the words, her kitchen garden and with a pod of garlic she steamed fields, in the wood, on the river bank. Their teachers have ‘The Union of Myanmar’. them and had me eat it with some plain rice after adding a been the birds themselves, when they sang to them, the A short rugged drive to dash of lemon juice, as the smell was definitely ‘fishy’! Hey sun when it left a glow of crimson behind it at setting, the Myanmar (Burma), takes Planters and their families in the Margherita estates presto, my stomach was as good as new after that. Yes, I’m very trees, and wild herbs.” (Anton Chekhov – ‘A Day in now acquainting myself once again with the herbs I was us to the nearest settlement love the Stilwell Road and it has become a part of the Country’) familiar with during my childhood. of the Burmese also known our lives. We are grateful to the army personnel who as Pangsau village. From arrange for our passes and without whose help the I often find the leaves of my Aloe Vera plants snapped off at the tips, and I know it’s the bungalow help who there we can view ‘The Lake of No Return’. The place would have been unexplored. are the culprits. Can’t blame them, since this plant has Americans gave the lake this name on account of A picnic in winter or a drive away from everyday life, multiple, miraculous properties – healing cuts, bruises, the many airplanes which vanished into its depths. most often bragging to our guests that we can drive burns, rashes and even sunburn – all packed into its jelly- THE WM TIMES TEAM Local folklore has it that aircraft flying over it never them to the Pangsau Pass at Myanmar where they can water package. Now I follow their lead and the results are return. Many myths surround this lake still. visit a foreign country without a passport… all this truly amazing. Similarly, the leaves of the marigold hold Editor : Sarita Dasgupta antiseptic properties. The next time you nick your finger, via the historic Stilwell Road. Assistant Editor : Rupa Saikia just apply some juice from its leaves. Then there are certain Coordinator : Sunny Uthup fruits and herbs which control inflammation; heal boils, eczema and other skin diseases; encourage hair growth, arrest dandruff…the list is endless. For instance, hibiscus leaves soaked in a little water makes for an excellent hair cleanser – no chemicals. Likewise, a few drops of onion juice in the ear, stems earaches – I know, for I have used it on my family as well as our doggies! There is indeed a wide spectrum of plant medicine and a growing awareness of the importance of the use of herbs and medicinal plants in our everyday life. I have but touched just the tip of the

58 JANUARY 2017 Frogs on a Log

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