WINTER 2015

The Best Begins in Conference Coverage ABOUT THE COVER Boston (L-R) Front row: Anne Hopkins, Reta Martin, Lucille Giovino, Karen Moss. Second row: Lisa Ekus, Leslie Lamb, Isabel Chesak. Third row: Erin Tracy, Susan Chused Still, Guida Ponte. Fourth row: Judith McDonough, Judith Akerman, Robin Cohen. Fifth row: Gloria Cabral, Juliana Lyman, Roberta Dowling, Jennifer Wolcott. Sixth row: Rose Ann Francis, Ellen Callaway, Julie Burba. Seventh row: Anne Rarich, Lee Napoli (Boston President), Toni Manning. Back row: Ellie O'Keefe, Louisa Kasdon, Judy Mattera, Joan Sweeney.

from the editor The Ties That Bind WINTER 2 O15 The Best Begins in Boston! In 1959, Les Dames des Amis d’ Escoffi- er formed as a confederation of wives and friends of Boston’s all-male Les Amis d’ Escoffier. In 1992, the women’s group became affiliated with the professional women’s society, Les Dames d’ Escoffier Interna- In This Issue tional (LDEI), founded in New York by Carol Brock. In a salute to LDEI, the Boston Chapter hosted the 2014 Annual Conference, attracting a record number of attendees. FEATURES The rich and varied programing centered on strategic planning, Welcome to Boston leadership, philanthropy, and work-life balance. 's 4 keynote speech and collaborative discussions on gender equality 5 Opening Speeches issues for women culinary professionals resonated with Dames. Solutions and inspiration flowed like fine wine in the fast-paced 6 Pre-Conference Tours sessions; many covered in this issue. Dames ARE shattering personal glass ceilings, thanks to visionaries like Carol Brock and 8 Leadership Forum , who mastered French cooking when few American chefs of either gender had done so. 9 gCI Breakfast Philadelphia Chapter’s 30th anniversary bash is featured on Partner Luncheon page 28. Five chapters will celebrate 2015 anniversary mile- 10 stones: San Antonio (20), Hawaii and Miami (15). Charleston 12 Conference Sessions (10), and London (5). Thanks to the Dame-contributors and photographers in this 16 Chapter Photos issue. Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia) is our new Member Mile- stones editor, replacing Hayley Matson-Mathes, now LDEI 18 Legacy Awards Luncheon Third Vice President. Thanks especially to our partner's for conference support. President Lori Willis says, “Partners can ac- 20 M.F.K. Fisher Banquet complish their vision and mission through us.” Charleston––site of this year’s conference––has many historic 28 Philadelphia 30th Anniversary ties to Boston. Both are at the epicenter of American history with numerous "firsts." Boston and “Charles Towne” were regarded DEPARTMENTS as sister cities in colonial times; the gentry summered in Boston and wintered in Charleston. As the seeds of Revolution were 22 Chapter News sown, “Charles Towne” residents were busy confiscating British Member Milestones tea while Bostonians were busy dumping it. When Parliament 26 enacted the Boston Port Act and closed the city to shipping, 31 Submission Guidelines “Charles Towne” quickly sent aid in the form of rice. Thank you, Boston Dames, for a stellar conference and for a firsthand look at your distinguished history. I hope all of our Dame sisters visit Charleston in October. Let's take this sister act on the road, and keep the momentum going! —Susan Slack, Editor, Winter Quarterly

2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International PResident's Message 2015 LDEI Board of Directors The mission of the LDEI Board is to Dames Spark Inspiration and Hope foster the growth and success of the organization by supporting the Across the Globe development of new and existing chapters and by implementing program initiatives. It provides leadership, guidance, It is a privilege to offer my first address as Presi- education, connectivity, and effective dent and provide a recap of some of our finest communication among LDEI members. work at the 2014 conference. President Founder Carol Brock once said the LDEI Lori Willis Annual Conference is more than education and Director of Communications Schnuck Markets, Inc. information sharing, “It’s that wonderful enthu- 11420 Lackland Rd. siasm and joy that the members take back with Ballwin, MO 63146-3559 them––the synergy––it’s like lighting a sparkler, (314) 994-4602 | [email protected] you know?” I thought that was an appropriate First Vice President way to describe what the 2015 Board and I plan Maria Gomez-LAURENS Manager, Hospitality, HelmsBriscoe to do in the next year. I want to light a spark of 11241 Avenida del Gato inspiration and common purpose within all of San Diego, CA 92126 our 1900 members. (858) 633-7515 | [email protected] You’ll hear more about our ideas, but first Second Vice President Ann Stratte things first! Boston, the self-proclaimed “City Owner, My Personal Chef of Firsts” can add another to the list. A record- 100 Severn Avenue, #506 breaking 250 Dames converged on the Royal Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 Sonesta Hotel for the 2014 Annual Conference (410) 903-2682 | [email protected] of Les Dames d’Escoffier International (LDEI)! Third Vice President Hayley Jo Matson-Mathes Congratulations to Former President Beth Owner/Culinary Consultant Allen, Boston President Lee Napoli, Co-Chairs 2333 Kapiolani Blvd #3516 Judy Mattera and Joan Sweeney, and Educa- Honolulu, HI 96826 (808) 941-9088 | [email protected] tion Coordinator Louisa Kasdon for a unique Secretary conference experience that showcased Boston Sharon M. Olson talent and introduced new targeted education Executive Director, Culinary Visions® Panel 345 North Canal Street, Apt. 1407 tracks for seminars. highlights, including Quarterly Co-Editor CiCi Sara Moulton and the roundtable were rivet- Chicago, IL 60606 Williamson’s presentation on taking better pho- (312) 280-4573 | [email protected] ing, and I couldn’t agree more with Sara’s ob- tos––it was positively pixelating! Treasurer servation that while opportunities for “women The Council of Delgates welcomed a new Stacy Zeigler in white,” have improved over the past two chapter in Nashville, approved with 46 found- Director of Sales, Bold American Events decades, “it’s not the best.” Thanks, in large part, 2929 Surrey Lane ing members! Congratulations to Nashville Atlanta, GA 30341 to women like Sara who continue to command President Nancy Knoepfel (also a New York (678) 302-3232 | [email protected] respect as pacesetters in the food world, oppor- Dame) and LDEI First Vice President Maria Chapter Board Liaisons tunities increase for us all. Gomez-Laurens for their work in chartering Deborah Mintcheff Project & Ckbk Editor/Food Writer/Copy Editor/ We thank all of our valued partners, returning our 30th chapter! and new, who helped make this conference a Recipe Devel/Co-Active Life Coach Mark your calendars for October 29-Novem- Live Forward Coaching unique opportunity to learn about new prod- ber 1, 2015. The Charleston team is already at 129 East 69th Street ucts, equipment, and services while delivering New York, NY 10021-5000 work tailoring an experience unique to their (212) 879-0383 | [email protected] a superb dining experience. We could not do it region and to the needs of our members. I’ve without you! Deborah Orrill tried to give you a good overview, but confer- Culinary Consultant Legacy Awards scholars and hosts helped ence is something you have to experience for 64 Vanguard Way remind us of our purpose, while M.F.K. Fisher yourself. And, when you do, you will find that Dallas, TX 75243 (214) 343-0124 | [email protected] honoree Nina Mukerjee Furstenau, author of it energizes you, and it helps you reach the goals Bev Shaffer the award-winning book Biting through the you’ve set for yourself and for your chapter. Skin: An Indian Kitchen in America’s Heartland, Corporate Chef, Vitamix World Headquarters If you attended the Boston conference, try to 3433 Blake Road shared how she discovered hers. The Columbia, recapture and sustain the energy that we all felt. Seville, OH 44273 Missouri teacher captivated us with her story of Let's send it out across all the chapters, as if we (440) 781-7202 | [email protected] how a banana casually tossed from one child to are passing a sparkler into the night––its tail Immediate Past President another set her out on her life’s path. Beth Allen trailing from one exceptional member to anoth- Founder/President, Beth Allen Associates Inc Chapter Board Liaisons (CBLs) led a stimulat- er, connecting through powerful partnerships 347 W 22nd Street, Suite #9 ing Leadership Roundtable that allowed for the and changing the lives of people in its path. New York, NY 10011-4683 sharing of information and best practices. At- (212) 206-1138 | [email protected] torney Jackie Henson was back by popular Executive Director Greg Jewell demand! She provided guidelines on operat- President, AEC Management Resources ing chapters as businesses and updated us on Lori Willis P.O. Box 4961 new 501c3 guidelines. And check ldei.org for President, Les Dames d’Escoffier International Louisville, KY 40204 (502) 456-1851 x1 | [email protected]

WINTER Quarterly 2015 3 The Best Begins in Boston CONFERENCE Coverage Boston Conference Lead Team Dear Dames, (L-R): Louisa Kasdon, Chef We are so thrilled to Judy Mattera, Joan Sweeney receive all the “love” coming CFP®. our way after the Annual Conference in Boston Chapter Boston. As a chapter we were up for the challenge that made the conference a joy to execute. President Lee Napoli of hosting our sister Dames in our home city. As all Come back and see us! We think we kept you so chapters before us, we worked long and hard for a busy (we were a little busy too) that you might have year or more to make the conference happen. As all missed some of the richness and tradition that is the LDEI chapters that have hosted a conference Boston. Call us! Come to Boston! We’d love to see before us, we hoped… We hoped it would be well you––and now the baton passes to Charleston. done and well received. We can’t thank each of you Best, enough for your engagement, your warmth and Lee, Joan, Judy and Louisa intelligence––and for your irrepressible sense of fun

HOSPITALITY Opening reception

The Opening Reception for the 2014 Boston Annual Conference was hosted by the Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute, Carolina Rice and Mahatma Rice, and Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. We thank our partners, who helped make the evening memorable, and a huge success.

4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Opening speeches Women in Whites: Where Would the Food World be Without the Women? By Susan Slack (Charleston) The star chef hardly needed an introduction, but Tanya A Roundtable of Women, Holland took great pleasure in presenting television personality Sara Moulton as keynote speaker. We know Food, and the Media Sara as a defining personality from ’s Cooking Live; as executive chef for Gourmet magazine; By Kathy Gottsacker woman in our industry; you never as food editor for on the ABC (San Antonio) know who she is going to grow up television network, and as host The Boston Chapter opened the to be. of American Public Television’s 2014 conference by combining Sara • Network and surround yourself Sara’s Weeknight Meals. Sara Moulton’s keynote address with a classic with experts who can support you. also co-founded the New York New England-style town hall meeting. • "We are entitled to be out front in Women’s Culinary Alliance. The roundtable focused on carrying for- a charming and assertive way." This That’s just for starters! ward the discussion of how women in isn’t the time for shrinking violets. The former LDEI scholarship food can have an impact that resonates • Present your ideas boldly; strive recipient went on to an illustri- louder. to be heard at every stage of your ous career, garnering millions A diverse panel was assembled, to career. of loyal fans. A protégé of Julia include restaurant chefs Jody Adams, • Become the media's go-to-person. Child, Sara is known for her Lydia Shire, and Tanya Holland, along Bring your story to the media; accessibility and friendly teach- with Media and Marketing Executives always be accessible. ing style. Lisa Ekus, Marlo Fogelman, and Lau- • Look for jobs that empower women Sarah addressed complex issues rie Donnelly. (Due to illness, Lydia was and by the same token, a women face in the culinary unable to participate.) work environment that empowers industry, including struggles Photo by Susan Slack The panelists opened the dialogue by women. to break into male-dominated imparting stories that reflected on their • Recognize the value of your ideas kitchens, and why women receive less media attention than early days in the industry. Eerily, they re- and ask for equitable pay for your male counterparts. Sara said there were few role models for vealed a collection of similar experiences, work. women early in her career; students were all male, and the namely, cold hard facts challenging • We are experts at multitasking, and chefs and teachers were older, European men. She heard women breaking into male-dominated we run businesses and families at comments like, “Women don’t belong in the kitchen,” or, kingdoms of professional kitchens and the same time, for goodness sake! “You can’t lift heavy pots.” Ever upbeat, Sara shared an an- corporations. The panel quickly focused • Thank yourself for your success. ecdote about working in a restaurant kitchen in France, and its broader view to working through and "Look it, and be it!" having to deal with unwelcome pursuit from the “seasoned” around these obstacles. The pioneering road of women in food chef/owner. She said Julia later commented, “Oh, dearie, A common thread of thought and may have left a trail covered with flour what did you expect? They are all like that. Get over it! Sara observation seemed to shine throughout dust and tears camouflaged by chopping said, “I use to think that Julia was a feminist!” the morning session, on how to get me- onions, but now we are on the speed- Being a bit of a rebel, Sara did get over it, and is success- dia and industry recognition for women way. That first rough layer of gravel has ful today, doing things her way. Still, she cautions that al- in food. Here is a summary, with 10 been laid, now comes the smooth, slick though the work environment for women is better, it’s not "golden nuggets" of wisdom: cement. Ladies, put your petal to the yet ideal. She advised, “Keep doing what YOU do best… • As Oscar Wilde once wrote, "Be metal and watch out for the curves. As and never stop learning.” Ironically, the first restaurant yourself. Everyone else is taken." Sara Moulton concluded "It's so much kitchen Sara ran––in Boston––employed all women. She Keep your integrity intact. better, but not the best." Conversations cautioned, “It was a disaster! The best working environ- • Mentor and be mindful of a new like this confirm the value of LDEI to ment should be a mix of females and males.” women in this dynamic industry.

President's Dinner

(L-R): Beth Allen––2014 LDEI President and dinner host, Conference Co-Chair Judy Mattera, Harvest restaurant Chef/Dame Mary Dumont, and Braiden Rex-Johnson. Photo by Lori Willis. 2015 LDEI President Lori Willis and Mary Dumont. Photo by Renie Steves. (L-R): Renie Steves, Carol Brock, and Abigail Kirsch. Photo by Renie Steves. Conference Co-Chair Joan Sweeney and Boston Chapter President Lee Napoli. Photo by Lori Willis.

WINTER Quarterly 2015 5 PRE-CONFERENCE TOURS

Higher Ground Farm

Boston’s First Rooftop Farm Farmer John Stoddard holds a cilantro berry! By Marie Kelley ies via bicycles! The farm produced ing money. We both have full-time (San Diego) over one ton of food in 2013 and jobs in addition to farming.” doubled that in 2014. The harvest Zoning for rooftop gardens re- Ascending a steep spiral staircase sells out every week. quires significant structural integrity from the top floor of the massive Higher Ground Farm’s found- for heavy loads, adequate drainage, Boston Design Center, we reached ing farmers and environmental- and roof sides for safety. Benefits of the roof’s Higher Ground Farm–– ists, John Stoddard and Courtney rooftop farming include protecting Boston’s first rooftop garden––lo- Hennessey received community and extending the life of the roof cated in the Seaport “Innovation funding and the help of over 100 membrane and a reduction in heat- District” of South Boston. Higher volunteers to launch the garden. ing and cooling costs. A green roof Ground Farm occupies over an They built and filled planters with insulates in the winter and cools in acre of space with a 2500-square- soil on the ground level, then lifted the summer. Higher Ground Farm foot garden of 18 feet by 18 feet them onto the roof by crane, and hopes to develop the remainder of planter beds. Established in 2013, planted them. As we nibbled on five the 60,000-square-foot roof into Dame Stacy Zeigler samples the commercial farm grows greens, varieties of basil, arugula, chervil, an expanded, fully functioning an Italian bakery treat. microgreens, an extensive variety of cilantro, kale, dill seeds, and cilan- garden, greenhouses, a farm stand L’aragosta––nicknamed tomatoes and herbs, edible flow- “lobster tail”––is a variation tro berries, John shared that the and CSA programs. John exclaims, ers, and vegetables. They sell to 14 of the classic Neapolitan farm is a labor of love and a work “Right now we’re building some- Boston restaurants and direct to the pastry La Sfogliatella. The in progress. “It’s learning as you go! thing important. We believe we are flaky, layered treats, stuffed community through a farm stand Our goal is to become a sustainable definitely at the beginning of a big with custard-cream, were a in the lobby of the Design Center. hit with the Little Italy tour business. The hardest thing is mak- movement!” group. Photos by Renie Boston chefs receive their deliver- Steves. North End Chinatown Market Tour By Danielle Wecksler (Charleston) devoured the five-spice lacquered pork called char Market Tour siu. The bakery was up next, where we licked our On a beautiful, crisp fall morning, our group fingers after eating moon cakes and red bean curd of Little Italy set out to explore Boston’s Chinatown––the pastries. The next stop was the Chinese pharmacy third largest in the country. Our tour guide was Michele Topor, trained where Jim talked about Chinese philosophy and Jim Becker of Michelle Topor’s, “Boston Food as a professional chef, how it relates to health and medicine. We were Tours.” Jim, a former chef, is fluent in Mandarin guided Dames on a all so intrigued, that many of us purchased the and Cantonese. He presented an insightful and market tour of the North remedies he discussed, such as the White Flower most delicious tour of the area. End––the site of Boston’s Analgesic Balm that rids one of headaches. The We started at the gates to Chinatown for a quick Little Italy. She provided last stop was the Sun Sun Market, an Asian gro- introduction, and then off we went wandering up rich, historical insight into cery store that has been in business for 72 years, and down the streets. Jim shared little morsels of the community and the through three generations. We marveled at the knowledge with us as we walked. For example, did Italian food culture. The sights and smells of the foods essential to Chinese you know that the word ketchup comes from the neighborhood is where cuisine, some familiar and some new to us. Cantonese word for “tomato sauce?” silversmith Paul Revere’s By this time, we were starving, so we headed to the Stopping at a few of Jim’s favorite shops along the house stands, and Old Hei La Moon restaurant for traditional Dim Sum way, we tasted some of the foods that teased us, North Church (“One, if for lunch. Dim Sum means “point to your heart”, while displayed in the store windows. Since Bos- by land, and two, if by as in point to what your heart desires from the carts. ton’s Chinatown is really geared toward the area’s sea,” coined by Henry As the carts rolled around the room, Jim pointed working families (and not necessarily tourists), it W. Longfellow). Twin out a wide variety of dishes for us to try. From tradi- was so helpful to have an expert amongst us! lanterns briefly hung here tional pork-filled dumplings to turnip cake and even Our first stop was the Great BBQ shop, where we on a night 1775, alerting chicken feet, we truly ate to our heart’s content! patriots that British troops were invading. The group Atlanta Dame Barbara Pires visited food shops along stands in front of roasted poultry in a market in the way, sampling a variety Boston’s Chinatown. The of Italian specialties. Chinatown Dames enjoy Afterwards, the Dames a Dim Sum lunch, which enjoyed Pranzo al Sacco– includes steamed dumplings and buns, turnip cake, –a delicious picnic lunch, chicken feet, and hot tea. made up of treats from all Photos by Danielle Wecksler. the shops they visited.

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Ye Olde Boston Verill Farm By Susan Slack (Charleston) By Ann Stratte Denise Graffeo guided our group of Dames and (Washington) guests to the Boston Tea Party Ships and Museum on the Congress Street Bridge. Upon entering the A bounty of pumpkins in Meeting House, each of us “switched hats” to as- all colors and sizes welcomed sume the identity of an 18th century colonist who us when we arrived at took part in, or supported the Boston Tea Party. Jennifer Verrill's 200-acre Our Patriot guides, all character actors, instructed farm located one hour from us on the proper way to take part in a town meet- Boston in Concord, MA. ing in 1773. Through re-enactment (and scripted Jennifer greeted us as we en- flash cards), we entered into a spirited debate tered the retail area of Verrill with several of the “Sons of Liberty” over Parlia- Farms, where they have a ment’s Tea Act. With any mention of taxation, we wonderful selection of local waved long feathers (our “Mohawk disguises”) and produce, meats, and cheeses, delivered rowdy “hisses” from the pews! “Boston as well as in-house prepared Harbor––a teapot tonight!” Talk of dumping East foods and baked goods. Our India Company’s tea shipments inspired unfet- group toured the farm on tered shouts of “HUZZAH!” The matter wasn’t a hay wagon with Jennifer resolved, of course, so we adjourned then boarded and her father and business an authentically restored 18th century ship, where partner, Stephen. They grow two of our most energetic Dames volunteered to beautiful produce for thirty toss several tea chests overboard. restaurants, their retail facil- The original Tea Party took place December 16, Tea overboard! Dames visit the deck of a tea party ship ity, and a weekly CSA. We 1773. Three American vessels held around 340 tea and the dark hold below where tea was stored. Lunch was returned to the greenhouse chests, and all were dumped into Boston Harbor. in The Heritage Room of The Union Oyster House. The and sampled five varieties of We learned that after the harbor became “caffeinat- walls displayed three-dimensional dioramas depicting each squash and a wonderful beef ed,” the fish population went down for about three stop along Boston’s Freedom Trail. Photos by Susan Slack. stew presented in a pumpkin months. George Washington wasn’t happy the tea history, it was established in 1826, although the that was prepared by Guida was destroyed, since he greatly valued the private charming brick building dates back to Pre-Revo- Ponte. The grand finale was property rights of others. However, he did support lutionary days. We feasted on Oysters Rockefeller; a fascinating lesson in the the cause. The incident was not called the “Boston Golden Corn Bread––cakelike and scrumptious; art of making fresh moz- Tea Party” until about 1830. rich, creamy clam chowder; Broiled Fresh Boston zarella cheese by Lourdes After a fascinating visit to the adjacent museum, Scrod Crusted with Seasoned Breadcrumbs; and Smith. Lourdes’ family was we strolled through the beautiful Rose Fitzgerald Warm Apple Cobbler. The restaurant has always known in New Jersey as the Kennedy Greenway with its gardens, plazas and been popular with local politicians, including 19th "first family of mozzarella" tree-lined promenades. We stopped at Faneuil Hall century statesman Daniel Webster, President John and she is carrying on this Marketplace, which includes Faneuil Hall, Quincy F. Kennedy and Secretary of State John Kerry. legacy as she provides local Market, North Market, and South Market. We We enjoyed the superb New England cuisine, restaurants and specialty met for lunch at the Union Oyster House, which along with a visit from Americo DiFronzo, the stores with small batch holds the distinction of being America’s oldest, restaurant’s renowned executive chef. Our tour was cheese under the label Fiore continuously operating restaurant. Rich with memorable and well “steeped” in American history! Di Nonno.

The Best of Beacon Hill The Beacon Hill Tour, led by in each episode of the series. Judith Ackerman, was a great Owner Tom Kershaw conducted success! The neighborhood was a private tour of the property, decorated for Halloween, and showing Dames the original the weather brisk, but beautiful. bar and the area where filming The first stop was at the residence took place. Afterwards, everyone of British Consul General Suzie strolled to Boston’s Public Gar- Kitchens, where she greeted the den, the first botanical garden in Dames in front of her home. The America. There was a quick stop The pre-conference tour group gather in front of the famous Cheers Beacon residence is a Bulfinch, Federalist- at a favorite Boston landmark, Hill bar––inspiration for the long-running television series. (L-R): British Consul style building that is over 200 Make Way for Ducklings––bronze General Suzie Kitchens greets the Dames, standing beside tour guide Dame years old. The walk continued sculptures of a duck family. The Judith Ackerman. Photos by Braiden Rex-Johnson. to Beacon Street’s Hampshire highlight of the day was a private House, the home of Cheers, a tour of three stunning homes was uniquely decorated. Winding Charles Street Jail––for a lovely popular American sitcom televi- on Beacon Hill. The homes their way around Beacon Hill, little lunch at Clink. The restau- sion series that ran for 11 sea- were shown by their owners, Judith led the Dames to the front rant is named for the actual cells sons. The familiar exterior of the which made the visits even more of John Kerry's home, then on to visible in the restaurant; some house was shown several times special. Each charming house the Liberty Hotel––formerly the even form cozy nooks for dining.

WINTER Quarterly 2015 7 Leadership Forum Sommelielr Smackdown

By Nichole Bendele, Chapter Leadership (San Antonio) Forum roundtable. Photo by Braiden Rex-Johnson. The Sommelier Attorney Jackie Henson Smackdown kicked presents a PowerPoint off with Becky Sue presentation on “Run- Epstein demon- ning Your Chapter like a Business.” Photo by strating the art of Susan Slack. Leadership sabrage––using a attendees. Photo by saber to slice the Hayley Matson-Mathes. neck off a bottle of Champagne or sparkling wine. Becky chose Leadership Forum Numbers G-R-O-W a bottle of Chateau Ste. Mi- chelle sparkling wine to open By Braiden Rex-Johnson (Seattle) Board Liaisons Stacy Zeigler, Hayley Matson- in this dramatic fashion. Mathes, and Deborah Orrill. This year’s key She and Jo-Ann Ross co- Last year's Chapter Leadership Forum (CLF) takeaways included the following: moderated the event; Chateau in Austin attracted 60 chapter presidents, MEMBERSHIP INVOLVEMENT (How to Ste. Michelle sponsored the presidents-elect, and chapter members aspiring wines. Boston Sommeliers to leadership roles. get inactive and longtime members to re-engage with chapter activities) Lauren Daddona of L'Espalier This year, at the LDEI Annual and Young Won of Rialto were Conference in Boston, 80 Dames *A personal phone call can make all the differ- ence. For example, an elderly member wasn't com- the competitors. The attendees packed the Thursday meeting to were each given a small plate of soak up information and find ing to meetings because she could no longer drive. After a friendly phone call, she once again became food and a sampling of wines answers to chapter issues. chosen by Lauren and Young, LDEI President Beth Allen active when she was offered rides to meetings. *The Dot-to-Dot Program seeks to create “sig- to best pair. kicked off the afternoon by reviewing the four Pairing #1: Lauren chose an O goals of the 2014 Board of Directors—Growth, nificant” connections between chapter members. Dames receive “dots” after at least a 30-minute Wines Chardonnay 2011, and Financial Stability, Connectivity/Communica- Young chose Indian Wells Cab- tions, and Member Benefits. phone call or face-to-face meeting. By year’s end, the Dame with the most dots wins a ticket to the ernet Sauvignon 2012 to pair Jacqueline (Jackie) L. Henson, a Washington- with the Seasonal Squash and based nonprofits lawyer and principal with the chapter’s annual dinner. *"Dames Who" or "Dames Do" events, such as Apple Soup Shot with Aged law firm of Ober, Kaler, Grimes & Shriver, Cabot Cheddar and Pepitas. P.C., answered questions and gave a PowerPoint Dames Who Drink/Dine, Dames Who Sin, and Dames Do Opera. The acidity of the Chardonnay presentation entitled, "Running Your Les Dames cut through the creaminess of Chapter Like a Business, Part III" (posted at SCHOLARSHIPS, PARTNERSHIPS, the soup while Cabernet Sau- www.ldei.org. and SPONSORSHIPS vignon was too heavy, and too In addition to her many salient points, Jackie • Endowments run by universities or outside smoky. The Chardonnay was stressed the importance of keeping and maintain- companies. my choice. ing good, corporate documentation (such as de- • Endowments named for chapter members. Pairing #2: Lauren picked tailed Board of Director and membership meeting • Dames earn points in order to attend conference. a Horse Heaven Vineyard minutes and financial records). Documentation Sauvignon Blanc 2013, and is important for demonstrating chapter compli- FUNDRAISING • Culinary garage sales. Young chose a Canoe Ridge ance with applicable federal, state, and local laws; Estate Merlot 2012 to pair defending third-party claims; and withstanding • Holding events at local international embassies. • Raise money during monthly meetings at raffles with the Roasted Coho Salmon IRS scrutiny in the event of an audit. with Parsnip Purée, Kale, and Quarterly CiCi Williamson Su- and use the money to send chapter members to LDEI editors, and Pistachio Garlic Pesto. san Slack conference. , did a PowerPoint presentation entitled, Lauren said she chose the Sau- "Cameras and Computers: How Resolution Relates SUCCESSION PLANNING (How to transi- vignon Blanc because of similar to Printable Photographs and How to Tell If Your tion your chapter leadership and board) characteristics. "Sauvignon Image is High Resolution” (posted at ldei.org). • Open board meetings to ALL members. Blanc has green grass and the CiCi described a "real" digital camera as a • Invite new members to do a "dog-and-pony pistachios are green.... " computer whose “eye” is capable of 20/20 vision. show" at a board meeting to familiarize them Young said that when By comparison, the typical iPhone possesses only with board members. making her choice she asks 20/200 vision, so photo quality suffers. • Hold board meetings in homes. herself, "What is the flavor "A photo is worth 1,000 Kilobytes," CiCi said. • Instead of the usual First Vice President/Presi- like? How will it linger? Our Quarterly “When submitting photos for the , make dent/Immediate Past President three-year line palates are always evolving." sure they are at least 1,000 Kilobytes (1 Mega- of succession, appoint three vice presidents The Sauvignon Blanc was a byte), the minimum size for quality printing.” (Philanthropy, Communications, and Pro- classic pairing I enjoyed. I think attach Susan reminded Dames that they should grams) so that you have three to choose from. a lighter-bodied Merlot would embed photos to their emails, not then, since that This year’s Chapter Leadership Forum was such also have worked in the pairing. lowers resolution. a success, LDEI incoming President Lori Willis, For the second year in a row, the CLF featured said, “The CLF gets better each year! Now, how continued ON PG 21 a “speed-dating” session organized by Chapter do we top THAT in Charleston?” 8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Global Culinary Initiative Breakfast

The fabulous Global Culinary Initiative Breakfast was hosted by Blue Marble Brands. (L-R): Katherine Newell Smith, Nichole Bendele, and Rollie Ann Blackwell. Photo by Susan Slack.Welcome from 2014 LDEI President Beth Allen. Photo by AEC. (L-R): Deborah Mintcheff, Joan Bloom, and Margaret Happel Perry. Photo by AEC.

Serving Up the World! Creating Strategies We know, inherently, that studying global for Success cuisines and cultures is invaluable to a culi- nary career. Our Global Culinary Initiative By Cindy Jurgensen programs codify the exploration. (Minnesota) But what specifically are the benefits? Kara Just four weeks from hip sur- Nielsen, Culinary Director at Sterling-Rice gery, speaker Allison Rimm, Group, a Boulder, Colorado-based, brand- the chief executive officer of building firm, shared her perspective at the Allison Rimm and Associates, GCI breakfast on Saturday. Kara prepared sensory experiences, like finding the next didn’t sit down once to rest. this global review summary following her She kept the morning crowd engaged as she talk in Boston. Sandy Hu (San Francisco) hot sauce. What follows sriracha? Ghost chiles, peri-peri sauces? Or gochujang, shared her Business of Life™ workshop “to set Keeping up with food trends around the found on those bibimbap bowls? us on an organized path of self-discovery in world not only makes Earth First––Focusing on sustainability our professional and personal lives.” The Joy of Strategy: A Business Plan for Life us better culinary is a big culinary pursuit, especially for professionals, but it entrepreneurs creating new foods from is a book that the is a requirement in insect protein. Linking bug cuisine to their award-winning today’s “Flat Earth” cultural origins is a way to assuage squea- educator/coach society. Despite the mish consumers. authored to inspire current emphasis on In 2015, expect to see more global trends individuals and local, there is still an grow including: leaders to create imperative to have our fingers on the global Advanced Asian Cuisine––New styles of a vision for life–– pulse because “global” may soon be your Thai, Japanese, and more Filipino dishes. then plan how to “local,” as many global trends find their Matcha Madness––Matcha tea in con- make that vision way into our multi-cultural society. venient formats geared to health, refresh- come to life. She Culinary professionals in all fields can draw ment, and energy. reminded us that life is serious business. Our from global trends: in menu planning, as Incendiary Charcoal––More Asian grill- dreams shouldn’t be left to chance, and they a cooking class, for food features, recipe ing over this super-hot hardwood that is won’t be if we are mindful and focused. Here’s development, and more. By tapping into odorless and smokeless. Allison’s Joy Formula: Purpose & Presence & the native culture of a trend, we provide the Coconut Sugar Sweetness––A lower-gly- Priorities & Perseverance & Plan & Perform necessary context for translating that trend. cemic, natural sweetener for both healthful will leave to Success & Joy. Trends are most powerful when tied to diets and Southeast Asian cooking. It’s critically important to be judicious in the consumer drivers of our own society. Ugly Fruit & Vegetable Movement–– what you do and do not do. Set goals and Sterling-Rice Group frames these with its Utilizing misshapen produce to combat make priorities that are smart, balanced, and proprietary Culinary Shifts 3.0. They are: food waste. figure out your definition of success. Allison Global Embrace––Our interest in mul- Resources for tracking global trends explained that it’s not enough to think the ticultural experiences, such as exploring include issues-oriented magazines (Smith- great thoughts; you have to do something! but but Korean bibimbap bowls. Expect new, fast- sonian Magazine, National Geographic); Get off your “buts”–– I’m too busy; I but casual restaurant concepts where patrons international bloggers; global market don’t know how to do that; I don’t know build their own bowl, in the same way you research companies like Mintel and Innova; whom to contact. can build a burrito. reports on global trade shows, such as Allison left Massachusetts General Hospital, Authentic Connection––We seek to Anuga and SIAL; global food retailers; and where she was the senior vice president of connect to foods that are rooted in tradi- global newsletters such as Food Navigator strategic planning and information man- tion, heritage, or passion, and personal and Nutra-Ingredients. agement for 16 years, deciding to take her expression. Authentic culinary experiences, Editor’s Notes: Special thanks to Blue Marble own advice to others. She made a personal flavors, and recipes appeal to consumers Brands, who hosted the GCI Breakfast. Kara strategic plan for her life so she wouldn’t have looking to engage with “the real thing.” Nielsen’s material was edited by Sandy Hu, to look back with regret. “Live on purpose, Sensationalism––Our desire for elevated chair of the Global Culinary Initiative with a purpose.” This is what she’s doing and advises us to do as well.

WINTER Quarterly 2015 9 Partner showcase LunchEON

The Hottest VIP Ticket in Boston!

If your company The plan was to transform the Partner Showcase Luncheon valuable knowledge that this group of women leaders could is interested in into a theater in the round with all the drama and excite- take back with them and act on.” becoming a ment that comes from peeling back the curtain and letting New partner SodaStream had hammered into place an partner in 2015, the talent shine. And, thanks to our conference partners and elaborate bar from which they demonstrated how they or if you know of AEC Management team, that’s exactly what happened! turn still water into sparking and flavored water. Longtime a company who With all the flavor and excitement of a street fair and the partners Alaska Seafood and Kikkoman teamed up to put would benefit hospitality of a VIP reception, the Partner Showcase was a some “kick” into their seafood offerings, while innovative from showing sight to behold! Held in the Grand Ballroom of the Royal new recipes from Beville and Mahatma Rice allowed the their products Sonesta Hotel, and in dramatic contrast to the backdrop group to rediscover their products. The smells of Sysco’s or services at of the calm waters of the Charles River, the showcase came deconstructed stir-fry–punctuated with Boyajian oils–– conference, alive! Corks were popping, water swooshing, woks siz- wafted through the room, and the WHUSTOFF booth please contact zling and everywhere you looked, Dames were engaged in was turned into a carving station. The complete menu Greg Jewell at learning about the newest flavors, products, options, and paired nicely with delicious wines from longtime partner AEC Manage- services offered by our conference partners. Wente Family Estates, from Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, ment Resources: Brian Calvert, AEC’s on-site coordinator for partner and Cakebread Cellars. 502.456.1851 development said, “This year we worked on showcasing Lori explained, “Partners provided special purchase dis- x1. our partners in ways that would resonate with the buyers counts and even contributed to the auction at the banquet Just provide the and influences in the room.” Lori Willis, then-first vice which, incidentally, netted $2,500! Perhaps the best part contact infor- president said, “It was amazing what happened when we is that all of our partners were pleased with the event, and mation and the decided to generate conversation and allow partners to cel- some are already discussing plans for next year! That type team will take it from there. Feel ebrate their successes, and tell us exactly what they wanted of lead time gives us a year to come up with new and excit- free to share the us to know about their company and its offerings. It was all ing ideas for partner engagement in Charleston.” 2015 Partner Brochure, which Wente Family Estates Kikkoman Sales, USA Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute is updated and online now with packages start- ing at $3,500 (Customization is encouraged and special consider- ation offered to Dames!).

(Silver Sponsor) (Silver Sponsor) (Copper Sponsor) (L-R): Jane Lee and Patice Yee Dame Helen Roberts––Manager of Seattle Dame Amy Muzyka-McGuire Green of Wente Family Estates. Culinary Development at Kikkoman, and Karl Johan Uri of the Alaska The longtime LDEI sponsor is where naturally brewed soy sauce is Seafood Marking Institute promote the oldest continually operated, the flagship product. The seasoning wild, natural and sustainable Alaska family-owned winery in the coun- has the power to enhance the taste seafood. (Tricia Sanguinetti not try. They poured an outstanding of each ingredient, so the entire dish shown.) Karl Uri serves Alaska Snow assortment of wines during con- tastes better. Kawaii (“cute”) rubber Crab Claws with Kikkoman Dipping Partner Photos ference.Katherine Newell Smith duck promotes Kikkoman’s Teriyaki Sauces.to Charleston Dame Jennifer by Susan Slack enjoys a glass of Wente wine. Sauce, used to season the mouthwa- Goldman. and AEC tering glazed salmon.

10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Cabot Creamery Cooperative Cakebread Cellars Candace Karu of Grande Dame Dolores Cabot Creamery Cakebread is on hand Cooperative offered to share information lunch guests tast- about her world-class ings of hand-rubbed wines, and to greet Cheddar and a silver her many admirers. chafing dish of “Best Cakebread Cellars built Pimento Cheese” its success on quality, sandwiches. The New consistency and conti- England farm-family nuity of grapes, wines, dairy cooperative people, and winery produces award-winning cheeses, including, “The World’s Best operations. Cheddar.” Bagel-flavored, hand-rubbed Cheddar from Cabot. Wüstoff-Trident of America, Inc. Sysco Corporation Julia Stambules of Wüstoff- Boston Chef Brian Trident of America, Inc., and O’Leary and Sysco Denise Baron Herrera of Bur- Corporation–– tons Grill. The 200-year-old global leader in German company sets the selling, marketing, standard for designing and and distributing manufacturing precision- food equipment forged and stamped knives. and supplies––cre- Denise serves Roasted Pork ate drama with an with Apple Cider Doughnut Action Station of Stuffing. stir fried vegetable Blue Marble Brands dishes, arranged Blue Marble with savory bites of beef, poultry, shrimp, and mounds of cooked Brands energizes quinoa and grains. Dame Ann Stratte samples the irresistible variety its customers of foods. and inspires the Sodastream public with over SodaStream turns plain water 600 organic, into sparkling water and into natural, and your favorite carbonated specialty food beverage. They are the world’s brands. Patrick largest manufacturer, dis- Gabrish serves San Francisco Dame Sandy Hu a special rice dish. tributor and marketer of home carbonation systems. Dames Pakal Direct Trading love the fizzy, flavorful drinks San Antonio Dame produced by SodaStream. Susan Jamie of Pakal Direct Trade, and Breville USA Ferra Coffee, served Breville USA small cups of rich, designs and en- smooth, hot cocoa gineers kitchen made from cocoa tools that nibs. Attendees deliver com- appreciated and mercial-quality enjoyed Susan’s amazing coffee, with beans sourced from hundreds performance. of small organic coffee farms in six Latin American countries. Seerena Wright and Alejandra Carolina and Mahatma Rice Lin conduct product demonstrations and provide fabulous food tast- Houston ings. Philadelphia Dame Dottie Koteski and Alejandra Lin chat about Chef/Dame Breville products. Debbie Wheeler’s Ste. Michelle Wine Estates Coconut Lime Ste. Michelle Wine Estates wine Rice Pudding flows at the Boston conference. and Deep Their extensive portfolio represents Fried Rice and wineries from around the globe, Mozzarella including O Wines, established in Balls were made with Mahatma rice, the number one selling rice 2006 with a mission to fund college brand in America. Recipes available at www.mahatmarice.com/en- scholarships for low-income, capable us/default.aspx. Dame Lori Willis chats with Debbie Wheeler about young women. Mahatma Rice products.

WINTER Quarterly 2015 11 Conference Sessions

(L-R): Leigh Belanger, Social Media 3.0: Tricia Sanguinetti, What You Need to Know NOW Jared Auerbach, By Sue Carter ish to ignore such a vital part of Jen Levin. promoting you and your “brand.” Photo by CiCi (London) Lynne spoke with authority on Williamson. It was standing room only in one how to use nontraditional media, of the conference’s most popu- and how to maximise impact by Seafood & Sustainability: lar sessions––no surprise really, using an integrated strategy across when the reality of social media multiple channels, and gave some The New England Case (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, excellent tips, among them these: LinkedIn and Vine, etc.) and its By CiCi Williamson (Washington) • Check your competition to influence continues to grow. For see what social media channels On Halloween, it was trick or treat from panelists speaking many, especially those over 50, they use. about sustainable seafood. The trick: Northeast fisheries were (and, ahem, there were more than • Know your target audience. recently declared a federal disaster. The treat: We were urged a few of us there) the phenomenon • Establish a brand “voice.” to eat more fish—not exclusively the threatened cod but other is challenging to say the least. Just • Create an editorial strategy–– comparable, lesser-known lean white fish such as hake, haddock, as the Mad Men television series of don’t leave content creation to sablefish, pollock, and redfish. the ‘50s helped to create product the intern! Jen Levin, Sustainable Seafood Project Manager, Gulf of Maine demand, social media is shaping a • Post at least three times week- Research Institute, explained that “Cod are spawning at an all- new generation with a modern ap- ly––ideally, everyday. time low level because the North Atlantic is getting warmer, and proach to consumerism, and it will • Hashtags––use them! they are changing locales north to colder waters.” Unfortunately, pay to learn the language. • Always respond to tweets––you 91 percent of seafood sold in the U.S. is imported, which causes Lynne Viera, founder and CEO will lose followers if you fail to a $11.2 billion U.S. trade deficit. If more fish were harvested of Rival Marketing started with the engage in the dialogue. domestically, there’s a potential income of $186 million instead figures––1.3 billion users of Face- • Link your social channels, and of $33.5 million currently,” she said. book, over 1 billion on Twitter, keep social media content on Jared Auerbach, Chief Executive Officer and Owner, Red’s Best, 200 million users on Instagram, your website so that it stays alive. buys seafood from 1,000 local fishermen. Some catch 10 pounds 300 million on LinkedIn and Social media is a fast-moving world and some, much more. “I strive to keep the story of the fishermen already 50 million on Vine, a new but, just as for Mad Men’s character with the fish.” He has 14 refrigerated trucks to pick up and deliver short form video sharing plat- Don Draper, it’s still about getting the catch while leaving ice for the next day’s fishing. Traceability is form––to illustrate the importance the message out to the right people, via QR code and specially developed software. of “new” media and how it is fool- Tricia Sanguinetti, Corporate Sustainability Advisor for the and keeping it relevant. Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute, said, “Alaska has been the blueprint of sustainability since 1959 when it became a state. Its constitution requires that ‘fish be utilized, developed, and main- tained on the sustained yield principle.’” No stocks are threatened or endangered, and all are wild-caught seafood. Alaska has no fish farming, but there is no wild commercial salmon fishing in the Atlantic, so if a package says “Atlantic Salmon,” it is from fish farms. Alaska accounts for 56 percent of U.S. commercial fisheries production. Regarding imported seafood, Tricia said, “We are ex- porting our high-Omega 3 fish to make people of other countries smarter while importing fish that makes us stupid.” Moderating the panel was Leigh Belanger, Deputy Director, The social media session drew a full house. Dame Lynn Viera. Photos by AEC. Let’s Talk About Food LLC

“Food is a right and not a privilege,” said “Waste Not, Want Not”––Food Waste in the U.S. Ashley. “Hunger is a problem of local distri- bution. One-third of the world’s food supply By Cynthia Schuster Eakin Not,” addressed problems of food waste is being tossed, yet there are 49 million (Cleveland) and food insecurity in the U.S. The speak- hungry Americans. We could fill the Rose ers included Ashley Stanley, founder and Bowl with fresh food every day and set it on Food, a most valuable executive director of Lovin’ Spoonfuls Food fire, and that is the amount of food being commodity, is being wasted Rescue, and Edith Murnane, director of wasted nationwide.” Ashley went on to say at an incredible rate in food initiatives for the City of Boston. Emily that discarded food is the largest source of this country, while a good Broad Leib, deputy director of the Food Law solid waste in our landfills. Lovin’ Spoonfuls portion of our nation’s and Policy Clinic at Harvard Law School, rescues outdated food and distributes it to populace goes hungry. addressed some of the legal issues that con- hunger agencies the same day. The informative session “Waste Not, Want tribute to food waste and distribution. continued ON PG 13

12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International The Boston Tea Party: From Colonial Tea Punch to Modern Tea Cocktails

By Teresa Farney (Colorado) Cocktails using steeped tea was the topic for Panelists for the session Craft Brewing. Photo by Julie Chernoff. Boston Dame Brandy Rand this session, led by tea sommelier Cynthia Gold moderated the session on craft brewing. Photo by Susan Slack. of the Boston restaurant, L’Espalier, One of only six in the world to hold that title, she covered tea, tea brewing, tea cocktails, and tea etiquette. Craft Brewing: New England Cider, After studying the tea fields of China and Sir Spirits and Beer Lanka, Cynthia brought home what she calls a culinary approach to tea: “the idea of combin- By Julie Chernoff cise batches, but Maggie Will and his brother ing tea with recipes, especially using tea with (Chicago) summed it up best when Dave (“We’re two broth- cocktails,” she said. she said, “Craft equals ers, but totally run by During This sold-out and highly high-quality, handcrafted women!”) made sweet the meeting informative session fea- products from a closely cider with their grandfa- we sampled tured a panel of four craft held company. The arti- ther as kids, but eventually several brewers/distillers from sanal product is a reflec- graduated to a real still. cocktails New England: Michele tion of where it comes Making a personal con- using tea: da Silva of Bantam Cider; from.” That, to my mind, nection “builds trust with Fish House Martha Paquette of Pretty means terroir, a theme that the consumer,” said Will. Punch, Things Beer & Ale Project; was revisited often. Sampled: HUB Punch (a Gimlet Will Willis of Bully Boy Bantam makes modern rum cordial flavored with 24 and Distillers; and Maggie American cider with fruit raspberries and botanicals). Southern Campbell of Privateer sourced from the Route “We distill every drop Earl Grey. Rum. Brandy Rand of 2 corridor just outside of we sell,” said Maggie of But what really stuck out for me was learning Richer Pour (who brightly Boston. Michele reminded Privateer Rum. “This is about punches whose recipes actually date back exclaimed, “I drink for a us that in terms of process, why I got into it––to make to colonial times. living!”) acted as modera- cider is a wine, not a beer. something; to craft some- “There are records of refreshing tea punches as tor. Sampled: Wunderkind thing. It’s very expensive early as 1632,” Cynthia said. “The golden age The panel started with Cider. to do what we do, but we of punch was in the 17th and 18th centuries. a basic question from Pretty Things started do what is right.” What is These punches should not be confused with the Brandy: “What is craft to “small and slow,” eventu- it like being a woman in neon stuff of the 1970s.” She explained that the you?” Michele mentioned ally growing from 200 the distilling world? “It’s word “punch” is Hindi meaning five ingredi- small batch––the hu- barrels to 3000 in their a challenge to be seen as ents. All colonial punches included spirits (usu- man component,––and fifth year of production. an authority; to be seen ally rum in 18th century England); something natural products as her Martha, who is British and as skilled. It’s a challenge sour like citrus, vinegar, tamarind, or verjuice benchmarks, while Martha has a degree in virology, to be seen! But you do it (a highly acidic juice made by pressing unripe simply stated, “Craft is described the brewing because you love it.” grapes, crab-apples, or other sour fruit); sugar; when my husband and I process from barley to Doing what you love. It’s water; and spice (tea). brew beer together.” bottling. Sampled: St. what craft is truly about. “Punch was sold and drunk in taverns from Will made a plug for Botolph’s Town Rustic a wooden or brass communal bowl,” she said. artistic freedom and con- Brown Ale. “It would hold two-to-three quarts, and it was picked up to drink from.” Punch was popular be- cause “alcohol was not as refined in those days,” she said. “Distilling equipment was not so good.” The punch we tasted during the session was Fish House Punch. It was created in 1732 at Emily Broad Leib helps provide law stu- Edith Murnane said the City of Boston the Philadelphia gentleman’s club called The dents with an opportunity to work with is promoting urban agriculture by grow- Schuylkill Fishing Company. The formula for it policymakers and food advocates, using ing food in vacant lots, on rooftops, and is still secreted away at the “Fish House,” as the the law to improve the food system. She other unused places and by launching a club is referred to. Many recipes and variations noted that confusion over food expiration composting program in the city. Putting have circulated over the last 282 years. It’s usu- dates is a leading cause of waste. There are healthier, better-tasting food in schools ally diluted with water or tea. no federal standards for expiration dates, would reduce food waste, she said. Edith “All written records of variations refer to black except for infant formula. Emily said not noted that about 60 percent of the 55,000 or green tea, available at that time,” Cynthia said. a single outbreak of foodbourne illness students in Boston public schools receive The recipe she made was adapted by David has been linked to an expiration date. Yet, free or reduced-cost food. Plate waste Wondrich for Esquire magazine. I’d suggest serv- 90 percent of consumers throw outdated studies indicate that, if tastier, chef-in- ing the punch in a lovely cut crystal bowl, instead food away. Her students are working to spired dishes are created, students will eat of a wooden one, and passing cups of the refresh- establish a uniform food dating system. the food and not throw it away. ing beverages instead of communal sharing.

WINTER Quarterly 2015 13 Conference Sessions

A Tutorial on Molecular Gastronomy By Barbara Samson (Philadelphia) Think liquid olives, flexible ribbons of shrimp, or ice cream prepared tableside. These are a few of the innovative dining experiences possible when cooking meets technology. In this fascinating session, Chef Tony Messina (Uni Sashimi Bar) and Chef Monica Glass (Clio) pulled back the veil of mysticism surrounding Molecular Gas- tronomy. They shared tips on how to create a range of elements from foams, gels, and powders using ingredients and equipment already in our kitchens Photos by CiCi Williamson and Susan Slack. and pantries, and some borrowed from the science lab. An important group of ingredients used in molecu- lar, or “modernist,” gastronomy are hydrocolloids–– DIY Food Photography: think gelatin and pectin. Others such as carrageenan, methyl-cellulose, and konjac flour may be less familiar. From Pinterest to Professional Used sparingly, in some cases as little as .01 percent, By Janet Burgess shoot. Is the photograph supposed to these ingredients help create beguiling food presenta- (LA/OC) project wholesome, healthy food or tions that deliver unique textures and flavors. They Food photographer Nina Gallant something else? To decide the layout, can also address growing consumer demand for transported her photography studio to both have to know what the client is healthy and natural foods. Monica offered samples of a meeting room at the Royal Sonesta trying to project with the food image. a wonderful eggless meringue that rivaled a traditional Hotel for her session. All the compo- There are three important tasks with egg white meringue in flavor, texture, and appearance. nents were there––lighting, comput- each job: have a clear, easily under- Then there is sous vide, the technique/device for ers, diffusers, tripods, and digital stood recipe; source the food; and cooking pouches of vacuum-sealed food in a tem- cameras for Dames to see. prep the food. perature-controlled water bath. The vacuum sealing Nina was team-teaching along with Denise emphasized plating the dish, can also make porous fruits and vegetables denser; Denise Drower Swidley, Boston-based such as a cascade of lettuce leaves we tasted syrup-infused watermelon with the texture culinary producer and food stylist. over a bright red tomato. Attention is of tuna. No, your home sealing machine does not Denise brought the food: chicken, paid to dimension and space, as well provide enough compression. Sous vide allows food squash, sage, pasta, and cheese. She as freshness. Always have back-up for to be cooked at much lower temperatures, for a much also brought an arsenal of food styl- the back-up! In food styling there is a longer time, than traditional methods. The precision ing items—props, water, oil spritzer, lot of playing with the food. Adding, of sous vide results in better texture, moisture, and butane lighter, toaster oven, wedges, subtracting, or changing one ingredi- flavor, and allows restaurants fewer returns. We also baster, brushes, tweezers, shears, ent can make a perfect shot. As the tasted carbonated orange segments, created with a atomizer, and eye droppers. food is styled, Nina looks through her traditional whipped cream siphon. Nifty! Nina defined commercial and edito- lens and makes suggestions. She loves Cooking instructors in the audience were eager rial shoots. Commercial shots have to using natural light and working in for any final tips to pass on to their students. In his be precise and look appetizing, as it open shade. This often can't happen charming Boston accent, Tony offered a final piece may be a photograph that will be on a in studio lighting so diffusers are used. of advice, “Learn the basics before you try to light ice food package for years. Editorial shots Components of the dish are impor- cream on fire!” are in magazines, blogs, cookbooks, tant: individual ingredients should be and used by foodies to post on Insta- visible and go well together. gram, Pinterest, and Facebook. Nina mentioned depth of fields–– Denise explained that nowadays, ev- background items are slightly out of eryone seems to be taking and posting focus in contrast to sharp focus on the food photos, which of course, are not food. She suggested the free, down- studio perfect. She explained that it's loadable app Tadaa, a fast, powerful much more casual now than 25 years high definition editor for iPhones. ago. And because it's not perfect, or She recommends buying a digital expected to be, it's more liberating to camera from your local camera pro. work in the world of food styling and It's easier to develop a relationship at photography. the local level. Denise and Nina both said that in Denise’s styling tip for perfect grill marks on meat is to sear it with hot the field of food photography, one has Dame Carol Brock. Photo by Barbara Samson. to sift through the objectives on every skewers. (L-R): Chef Tony Messina and Chef Monica Glass. Photo by AEC.

14 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Shooting Cold Exploring and Becky Paris Turner (British Columbia) Cooking with Some seminars inform, while others in- spire. Photographer Ellen Callaway's ses- Ancient Varieties sion encouraged participants to “break of Wheat the ice mold,” and to even transcend it! In a vibrant, collaborative session with By Barbara Cook food stylist Sunny Ricks and prop stylist (Houston) Verne Cordova, Ellen led participants Maria Speck is very passion- through the steps of an icy photo shoot, ate about grains. Her tradi- from setting the tone with client confer- tion while growing up with a ence calls and mood boards, to the use of Greek mother and a German professional equipment, unofficial tools, father was to eat whole grains props, and creative fakery. She embraced and whole-grain breads. rule-breaking from every angle, while According to Maria, in the emphasizing shadows and transparency to last 150 years, the industrial create a cohesive mood and setting. Ellen food mill was the first food encouraged us to walk around set tables so invention that didn’t improve we could examine props, “food,” equip- our food nutrition. The new ment, and styling tools. After the session, grains have been bred to have several of us ordered a Rolykit Toolbox higher yields, and they are like the one Sunny used. Sunny was in- easy to harvest by machine. credibly generous with her fake ice cream The hard, bitter bran falls off recipes, and scooping and garnishing easily, and they have more tricks. Everyone agreed that her granita gluten to make fluffier breads fake-out, using large flake salt and wine, in commercial mixers, using was beautiful and convincing. Shooting industrial yeast. Ancient grains Cold was one hot session! Purchase props have higher protein contents and/or fakes at: http://www.trengovestu- than the new grains, but most dios.com/greatfakes/ Faux lemon sorbet photo: Ellen Callaway––CallawayPhoto.com. of the protein is not gluten, so people with gluten intolerance can eat them. Ancient grains require differ- Where Do You Go From Here? ent cooking techniques than Growing Your Brand….Exit Strategies and Reinvention current commercial grains. A great deal of knowledge about By Martha Morgan (Kansas City) service, personal involvement, and knowing how cooking with ancient grains to listen. As the brand grows, Simone is designing has been lost, but Maria The annual conference confirms that a Dame's dishes for the company and producing high- and others are working to career rarely ends at 60. Options include more profile events that are outside the box. revive it. She has written the creativity, specialization, and Mary-Catherine Deibel and Deborah Hughes cookbook “Ancient Grains for inspiration for those who follow. were former co-owners of the Cambridge restau- Modern Meals,” and appears In this session, five successful rant, Upstairs on the Square. Mary-Catherine in the documentary, The Dames described how they heard revived her past musical life as a classical music Divide of the Grains. their “Next Thing” calling and manager and concert producer for a new role Ancient grains require pre- how they listened, trusting their as associate director of donor relations at Longy soaking for ease in cooking instincts to move forward. School of Music of Bard College. To do this, she and digestibility. They are Mary Ann Esposito, creator of Ciao, Italia! focused on her real goals, became strategic about naturally sweet, and many kept her goals of passion and relevance as she activities and volunteering, and respected advice have flavors of cinnamon and transitioned from teaching and traveling to co- of peer mentors. vanilla. Maria demonstrated branding with partners and selling their products Emily Green is a software engineer who runs a grain pudding with faro on infomercials. Smart Lunches, providing food for schools and piccolo, using the first pot she Ilene Bezahler moved from pre-9/11 internet groups without on-site lunch programs. Her brought from Germany. The success to a Boston-area farm. At age 50 she was best advice: stop telling people you don't know grains were first cooked with ready for the “Next Thing,” and acquired the stuff! Partner your skills and knowledge with a cinnamon stick. Honey, va- franchise for Edible Boston. Her latest rebrand- others, confidently! nilla, lemon zest, and cream ing focuses on the people who make local food The panel navigated “bends in the road” with were added when the grain possible: the farmers and artisans, and markets, the critical thinking, planning, survival skills, and was two-thirds cooked. The reflecting the philosophy, Eat. Drink. Rethink! courage that had brought them success. All rec- pudding was a simple, deli- Simone Williamson, CEO of Be Our Guest ognized the bump that signaled change, and that cious, and healthy treat. linen and party rental company, rebuilt the change was inevitable. Their openness was inspir- company by hiring qualified, motivated people, ing! More than one participant was taking detailed and focusing on the key principles of customer Session 10, Feeding Our Kids, notes in preparation for her own “Next Thing!” will appear in the spring Quarterly.

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1. WASHINGTON (L-R) Front: CiCi Williamson, Eileen Dykes, Nancy Hart Mola. Second row: Ann Stratte, Janet Yu, Katherine Newell Smith, Drew Faulkner. Back row: Teresa Farney, Judy Rusignuolo, Linda Joyce For- ristal, Theresa Morrison. 2. SAN ANTONIO Front: Rollie Blackwell, Cathy Tarasovic, Kathy Shearer. Second row: Nichole Bendele, Kathy Gottsacker. Back row: Nancy Fitch, Susan Jaime. 3. HAWAII Front: Dorothy Colby, Nancy Edney, Hayley Matson-Mathes. Middle Row: Jan Yap, Jocelyn McCann, Kai Cowell. Back row: Dianne Vicheinrut, Clare Bobo, Kathi Saks. 4. SAN DIEGO Front: Karen Contreras, Marie Kelley, Sharon Van Meter. Back: Marie Gomez-Laurens. 5. MIAMI Front: Cindy Lasky, Clair Tomlin. Back row: Dorothee Rubin, Ana Plana. 6. LA/OC Front: Nancy Eisman, Janet Burgess. Middle: Ida Rodrigues. Back: Maria Gomez- Laurens. 7. CLEVELAND Front: Bev Shaffer, Beth Davis-Noragon. Back row: Cynthia Eakin, Carol Hacker. 8. MINNEAPOLIS Front: Merrilyn Tauscher, Carole Buchanan-Brown. Middle row: Ingrid Gangestad, Barb Strand. Back: Cindy Jurgensen. 9. HOUSTON Front: Priti Vakil, Barbara Cook. Second row: Jacquie Clark, Jan- ice Crockett. Back: Debbie Wheeler. 10. SEATTLE Front: Braiden Rex-Johnson, Beverly Gruber, Diana Dillard. Second row: Deba Wegner, Tricia Gelles, Marilyn Carlson. Back row: Anne Nisbet, Martha Marino, Katherine Kehrli. 11. AUSTIN Front: Carla Williams, Kitty Crider, Amy March. Back row: Cathy Cochran-Lewis, Carol Past Board (L-R) Front row: Past Fowler Huntsberger, Beth Vlasich Pav. 12. DALLAS Front: Tara Anderson, Renie Steves, Karel Ann Tieszen. Middle row: Deborah Orrill, Nikky Phinyawatana, Sharon Van Meter. Back row: Janet Cobb, Dotty Griffith. President Beth Allen, Lori Wil- 13. CHARLESTON Front: Jennifer Goldman, Danielle Wecksler, Deidre Schipani. Back row: Susan Slack, Na- lis, Maria Gomez-Laurens. Second thalie Dupree, Jeanne de Camilla. 14. CHICAGO Front: Julie Chernoff, Veronica Hastings, Patty Erd. Second row: Braiden Rex-Johnson, Hayley row: Judith Hines, Sharon Olson, Toria Emas. Third row: Brenda McDowell, Mary McMahon. Back row: Shan- Matson-Mathes, Mary Ellen Griffin. non Kinsella, Karen Levin. 15. SAN FRANCISCO Front: Sandy Hu, Grande Dame Dolores Cakebread (2014- Third row: Cathy Cochran-Lewis, 2015), Tanya Holland. Second row: Arnell Hinkle. Back row: Amy Myrdal Miller, Sue Huffman-Robinson, Helen Roberts. 16. ATLANTA Front: Shelley Pedersen, Tamie Cook, Holly Chute. Second row: Gayle Skelton, Stacy Zeigler, Deborah Orrill. Back Barb Pires, Becky Minchew. Third row: Gena Berry, Mary Moore, Patty Ziegenhorn. Fourth row: Vicky Murphy, row: Ann Stratte. Gaye Anderson, Debi Loftis. Fifth row: Stacy Zeigler, Virginia Willis, Boston Dame Lisa Ekus. Back row: Lenada Merrick, Ashley Mitchell, Kelly Hornbuckle. 17. NEW YORK Front: Alison Awerbuch, Mary Ellen Griffin, Beth Allen. Second row: Carol Brock, Suzen O’Rourke, Joan Carris. Third row: Abigail Kirsch, Rita Jammet, Joan 2015 Board of Directors (L-R) Bloom. Fourth Row: Marsha Palanci. Fifth row: Deborah Mintcheff, Roberta Morrell, Jonell Nash. Sixth row: Front row: Marie Gomez-Laurens. Jacqueline Ehlert-Mercer. Back row: Jennifer O'Flanagan, Vanessa Trost, Jane Kettlewell. 18. NORTHEAST President Lori Willis, Beth Allen. Front: Sarah Kline, Nancy Matheson-Burns, Victoria Taylor, Laura Grabski. Back row, Lisa Webster, Barbara Second row: Deborah Mintcheff, Spencer. 19. KANSAS CITY Rebecca Clark, Martha Morgan. 20. LONDON Susan Carter, Jacqueline Pickles. Stacy Zeigler, Ann Stratte. Back 21. BRITISH COLUMBIA Becky Paris Turner, Cate Simpson. 22. COLORDO Teresa Farney, Beverly Cox. 23. BIRMINGHAM Angela Rene Schmidt. 24. PHILADELPHIA Front: Linda Forristal, Lynn Buono, Bar- row: Sharon Olson, Hayley Matson- bara Samson. Second row: Kathy Gold, Manette Richardson, Adrienne Abramson. Back row: Charlotte-Ann Mathes, Bev Schaffer, Deborah Orrill. Albertson, Ann-Michelle Albertson, Dottie Koteski. 25. ST. LOUIS Front: Rose Beckerle, Lori Willis, Roberta Duyff, Middle row: Judy Bellos, Beth Heidrich, Mary Sutkus. Back row: Cecily Hoffius, Joan Ferguson, Holly Cunningham. cle Cir ck o r The Boston Chapter is pictured on the cover. B L D EI FALL Quarterly 2014 17 Legacy Awards Luncheon

Jane Lee and Patice Yee Green. Photo by Susan Slack. (L-R): Legacy Awards Co- Chair Alison Awerbuch, Jennifer Bradley, Lisa Ramsey, By Susan Slack (Charleston) Housekeeping NYC Journalism Experi- White Ginger, and Crispy Shallots with Meghan ence–Catherine Smart); Stacy Ziegler, Lime Ponzu Vinaigrette. The main course Seradsky, Legacy Awards Committee Co-Chairs Charlotte Swancy, Judith Winfrey was Castilian Herb-Grilled Chicken with Gretchen Alison Awerbuch (New York) and Sue McKay, (Atlanta Farm Experience–Meghan Wasabi Mashed Potatoes. Dessert was Cit- Huffman-Robison (San Francisco) Catherine Seradsky); Lesley Hill (Hawaiian Farm rus “Brown Bread” with Orange Caramel introduced six 2014 Legacy Awards Smart, Jane Experience–Jane Anderson); Lisa Du- Sauce and Crème Fraîche Ice Cream. recipients during the Legacy Awards Anderson, par (Seattle Catering Experience–Jenni- The dishes were perfectly paired with Luncheon in Boston. The winners are: and Co-Chair fer Bradley); and Shari Carlson (Dallas excellent wines: Wente Wineyards Reliz Jennifer Bradley (New York City); Lisa Sue Huffman- Pastry Experience–Lisa Ramsey). And Creek Pinot Noir 2011, Arroyo Seco, Robison. Ramsey (La Vergne, TN.); Gretchen thanks to the Awards Committee for Monterey; and Wente Vineyards Small Dame Helen McKay (Pittsburg, PA); Jane Anderson your invaluable work. Lot Eric’s Chardonnay 2013, Livermore Roberts. Pho- (Sacramento, CA); Meghan Seradsky Hosts for the lovely fall luncheon Valley. Attendees also enjoyed the Ferra tos by AEC. (New York City); and Catherine Smart included Kikkoman Sales USA with Coffee Organic Ice Tea and Honduraz (Somerville, MA). Culinary Development Manager Helen Specialty Coffee. Each winner spoke briefly during the Roberts; and Wente Family Estates Hosted annually, the Legacy Awards luncheon, sharing sentiments and inspi- with Marketing Managers Jane Lee and were established in 2009 and are sup- rations on what it meant to be men- Patice Yee Green. ported by the Julia Child Foundation tored by such talented, distinguished Each dish of the exciting menu was for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts. Dames––leaders in the fields of food, expertly seasoned with a Kikkoman Watch for the LDEI spring Quarterly beverage, and hospitality. product. Even the dessert was enhanced when each of the 2014 winners will share Special thanks to the 2014 hosts: by the complex, subtle seasoning, which is the personal story of her one-week extern- Carolyn Wente and Amy Hoopes naturally brewed and aged like fine wine. ship with her generous Dame host. There (Wente Winery California Wine Experi- The first course was Burmese Ginger will also be an update from Alison and ence–Gretchen McKay); Susan West- Salad with Nappa Cabbage, Pickled Sue on the 2015 awards program. moreland and Sharon Franke (Good

LDEI Council of Delegates (COD Meeting

The Council of Delegates sionally diverse group of women accepted bids from Los Angeles/ was slated to expire, and in order meeting of approximately 100 who will continue to work to Orange County and Miami to limit disruption to the 2014 targeted leaders from each put the Nashville food commu- to be considered as conference or 2015 conference, the Board chapter reinforced the success nity on the charts! hosts. Washington is set to follow voted to turn the responsibility of the record-breaking Boston Beth Allen, then president of Charleston with a 2016 event. over to AEC Management, our Conference. The highlight of the LDEI, presided over the meeting The Partner support was consid- current association management meeting was the addition of a and shared that the Board contin- erably lower this year, due in part company, as an extension of their new chapter to the LDEI family. ues to work in advance to book to business transitions, economy existing contract. In addition, the In one vote of the Council of dates for conferences and compli- and weather-related crises. Sev- contract has been changed to re- Delegates, the LDEI member- mented Maria Gomez-Laurens, eral partners opted not to return flect an emphasis on bringing in ship grew by 46 women who out-going LDEI secretary and in 2014, but are planning to new partner opportunities as well comprise the founding mem- an employee of HelmsBriscoe, return in Charleston. The 2014 as serving the needs of our exist- bers of the Nashville Chapter! for saving the organization a Board took steps this year to re- ing partners. You can expect the Nashville, our 30th chapter, is significant amount of money by configure the traditional partner nature of our partner relation- under the leadership of New negotiating great hotel pricing. development position, bring it ships to become more mutually York Dame Nancy Knoepfel. The gathering heard highlights “in-house” so to speak, at least beneficial as we go forward. Congratulations to this profes- of the Charleston conference and temporarily. The existing contract

The AEC Management team: Brian Calvert, Greg Jewel, and Nick Vaccaro.

Greg Jewell AEC Management Resources 502.456.1851 x1 | www.aecmanagement.com

18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Halloween party

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1. (L-R) Front: Nathalie Dupree, Jennifer Goldman, Deidre Schipani. Back: Danielle Wecksler and Susan Slack; all wearing Charleston Halloween millinery by Danielle. Photo by Susan Slack. 2. Chef Lidia Shire transforms New England comfort food Indian Pudding into a festive dessert, topped with a golden meringue crown and ice cream. Photo by Susan Slack. 3. Dames Guida Ponte, Maryann Muller, and Jennifer Wolcott. Photo: by Susan Slack. 4. Lucille Giovino and Lee Napoli present the Saccone Award to chef/instructor Susan Logozzo on behalf of the Boston Chapter. The award––given to “unsung heroines of the hospital- ity industry,” honors Boston Chapter Grande Dame Eda Saccone. Photo by Susan Slack. 5. (L-R): Hayley Matson-Mathes , Lori Willis, and Cathy Cochran-Lewis. Photo by Mike Mathes. 6. Judy Bellow, Grande Dame Dolores Cakebread, Janet Burgess, and Maria Gomez-Laurens. 7. Who's hiding behind the mask––it’s spring Quarterly editor, CiCi Williamson! Photo by Susan Slack. 8. Kathi Sacs (masquerades as Hawaiian Shinsato pork), and pirate /Dame Toria Emas. Photo by Mike Mathes. 9.Boston Dames’ create a tribute to culinary icon, Julia Child. 10. (L-R): Cate Simpson, Becky Paris Turner, Katherine Newell Smith, and Judy Rusignuolo, with “Captain Jack Sparrow.” Photo by Mike Mathes. Spirits, Soul and Season A Spooktacular Halloween Celebration By Brenda McDowell ful masks awaited, because after all, it was ing us. You would have thought Sinatra and (Chicago) Halloween. There were plenty of witches the Rat Pack were in the house! and frightful-looking Halloween characters And then, there was dinner—an awe- The Boston Chapter hosted a bewitching milling about and, some delightfully fun some feast, a wickedly, wonderful twist on a Halloween party like no other at the Pruden- ones too, like the sea captain in her jaunty traditional clambake, created by Chef Mark tial Center Skywalk Observatory on Hallow- cap and natty stripes, and the pajama-clad Porcaro. Two buffets were set, laden with een night. Donez Cardullo-Tavilla, with the Dames. Smart––they could just go back to one fabulous dish after another. There was help of conference Co-Chairs Joan Sweeny the hotel and fall into bed! Ruthie Larkin, New England clam chowder with corn bread; and Judy Mattera, and President Lee Napoli, the renowned Bean Town Medium, provided steamed lobster tails with drawn butter; a sal- planned the hauntingly magical evening from psychic readings. Meanwhile, Captain Jack ad of sweet Gem lettuce, blue cheese, apples start to finish. Sparrow swaggered amongst us, regaling some and cider vinaigrette; maple-glazed pork belly; After leaving the buses and ascending via special recipients with long-stem red roses. braised top neck clams with Cheddar grits; elevators to the 50th floor, Donez’s sister And to cast good spells upon one and all was roasted beet salad with whipped Calabria Francesca Sibble, who was also in charge of the Good Witch, Marjorie Fedele. ricotta and tangerine honey; stewed collard the awesome party decorations, greeted the As we gazed out on the clearest of clear greens; boiled new potatoes with herbed Dames. On display was a touching tribute nights to take in the beautiful Boston skyline butter and Andouille sausage; and a Gruyere to Julia Child––“What’s for Dinner.” And via our 360 degree panoramic view, we sipped cheese, chanterelle mushrooms, bacon, and of course, front and center in the display was wine and spirits including our specialty drink brioche combo served from a spectacular a copy of the beloved Mastering the Art of of the evening, Le Spooky Dame, a blend of carved-out pumpkin. The great feast was French Cooking,” along with other books she pumpkin vodka, Kahlua and milk. A cheese accompanied by outstanding wine selections. wrote. There were photos, pots and pans, and board laden with myriad cheeses beckoned For dessert, Lydia Shire’s Indian pudding, favorite foods like butter, a can of escargot, while waiters passed stunning appetizers such topped with a golden meringue crown and a wheel of creamy French Brie, and lots of as bite-sized crab salad in cucumber cups, and ice cream was a perfect finale. No tricks…. seasonal vegetables. steamed bao bread holding fried oysters, aioli, all treats at the Les Dames d’Escoffier Harvest Upon entering the skywalk, just in case pickled onions, and slaw. And all the while, Halloween Celebration in Boston! you were not in costume, an array of color- the celebrated Rich DiMare Trio was serenad- WINTER Quarterly 2015 19 M.F.K. Fisher Awards Banquet

Below: Beth Allen, winner Nina Mukerjee Furstenau, and CiCi Willamson. Photo by AEC.

Awards Gala Features M.F.K. Fisher Award Grand Prize Winner By Toria Emas (Chicago) Jane Lee from Wente Family Estates guided Tuscany with six journalism students. For it us through the wine pairings, then presented was in her mother’s closet where she absorbed Always a bright spot of the LDEI conference a special large-format bottle of Wente wine her Indian culture though touching and is the closing gala. This year was no different. to the Royal Sonesta Hotel chef and his crew. feeling her mother’s Indian clothes. Can you Beth Allen welcomed LDEI and thanked the Sysco Corporation donated the generous imagine how frustrating it was for her family Boston Chapter for a tremendously success- portions of the Mushroom Crusted Sirloin. to travel from Kansas to Chicago to pick up ful conference. LDEI Founder Carol Brock A favorite of the dessert trio was the Maple the necessary spices and special ingredients presented Lucille Giovino a photo from the Gingerbread Cake. for their Indian cuisine or wait until Hal- early days of Les Dames, who in turn, told a The M.F.K. Fisher Award presentation was loween to buy cinnamon sticks that could be story about one of the first Les Dames des Les the highlight of the evening. The exciting stockpiled for the rest of the year? Amis d’Escoffier events that Carol attended in news is that the award will be an annual Only our incoming president, Lori Willis Newport, Rhode Island, and how Carol trav- event. CiCi Williamson, M.F.K. Fisher chair, would be able to hold the members’ atten- eled by bus and changed her skirt onboard regaled us with her myth-busting theories tion after a satisfying meal, lovely wines, port, the bus. of Paul Revere’s famous ride and cry, “The and Nina’s inspiring story. After thanking the Not to be overshadowed, Carol stepped up British are coming, the British are coming.” LDEI board and Greg Jewell and his staff, to the microphone and stated that not only Perhaps there is an SNL writer waiting in the Beth Allen passed the gavel to Lori. did she tell Lucille that she changed her skirt wings since CiCi retired this year from the Lori outlined her goals for the following behind the bus seat, but one of the esteemed U.S. Department of Agriculture. year, and she challenged each chapter and members of Les Amis d’Escoffier asked her Nina Mukerjee Furstenau took the stage and each member to quantify “volunteerism.” the same question, and when he heard the quietly, confidently and lovingly expressed her These hours become meaningful when telling answer proceeded to pass the word among food writing journey which began as a four- the LDEI story to potential partners as influ- the 125 seated at the table. In spite of that or year-old visitor to India that became the title encers in our community and in the culinary perhaps due to Carol’s moxie, each year we of her award-winning book “Biting through world. The LDEI sparkle that Lori ignited salute our founder’s vision with joy, pride, the Skin: An Indian Kitchen in America’s will continue as the year progresses. good food and camaraderie. Heartland. Nina’s life embodies LDEI’s vision As the conference came to a close, Boston’s Karl Johan Uri, Foodservice Marketing Spe- and guiding principles. She teaches wine and hospitality continued at the afterglow party cialist for Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute, food writing and continues her commitment where the chapter’s gracious president Lee thanked the Royal Sonesta Hotel Boston for to food security, sustainable agriculture, and Napoli and conference Co-Chairs Joan the excellent execution of each meal. He was food policy serving as a project director for Sweeney and Judy Mattera greeted the guests especially pleased with the presentation of a USAID project for soybean innovation in while the band played on. Cheers to the the scallops. The Alaskan seafood fishermen Africa. Boston Chapter for their warmth and profes- meticulously handle their scallops by im- It was ironic that Nina took the call from sionalism and to paraphrase CiCi, a warning mediately freezing them and sending them Beth Allen announcing the award while in to Charleston, “The Dames are coming, The dry-packed to their final destination. a closet in Italy during a food-writing trip in Dames are coming.” 20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International cle Cir ck o r Brock Circle Reception cle B Cir ck (L-R): Shelley o Pederson–– r representing B the Atlanta Chapter, Sta- L cey Zeigler, D and Carol E Brock. Photo I by Lori Willis.

By Lori Willis (St. Louis) highlight, we acknowledged our 39th and 40th members: Stacy Zeigler (Atlanta) L The Brock Circle Reception, hosted by and Abigail Kirsch (New York). Con- then-President Beth Allen, was held prior gratulations to Stacy and Abigail and to to the Friday night Harvest Halloween all who have made The Brock Circle a Celebration. Because it was Halloween, D priority in their financial planning. This the elite gathering took on a very interest- year, the 2015 Board will be looking for ing look! The Brock Circle now has 40 the first innovative cause to which we can members. Invitees included all individual apply a portion of the funds accrued. For E members and one representative from more information on how to join The each member chapter. Sponsored by Brock Circle, please look on-line at LDEI. I Wente Family Vineyards, the event was org or contact Greg Jewell or Lori Willis. the perfect kick off to the evening. As a

Brock Circle Members Carol Brock, Dolores Snyder, Jeanne A. Voltz, Claire Boasi, Julie Dannenbaum

Members Chapter Members Beth Allen Melissa's Produce Atlanta Chapter Janet Burgess Hayley Matson-Mathes Austin Chapter Dolores Cakebread Mary S. Moore Boston Chapter Eileen Dubose Marsha J. Palanci Chicago Chapter Toria Emas Braiden Rex-Johnson Dallas Chapter Patty Erd Aileen Robbins Houston Chapter Alice Gautsch Foreman Dolores Snyder New York Chapter Linda Joyce Forristal Ann Stratte Philadelphia Chapter Patricia Gelles Ronna Telsey Seattle Chapter Maria Gomez-Laurens Vanessa Trost St. Louis Chapter Mary Ellen Griffin Sharon Van Meter San Francisco Chapter Crickett Karson Carolyn Wente Holly Arnold Kinney Lori Willis Abigail Kirsch Stacy Zeigler

Sommelielr Smackdown continued from PG. 8 Pairing #3: Lauren picked an O Wines Red Wine Trivia with the attendees. Those who Wine blend 2010, and Young picked the Cha- answered first and correctly won prizes. teau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling 2013 for the The results of the Sommelier Smackdown Hoisin-Glazed Duck Breast, Scallion Pancake, were the following: Pairing #1––a Tie; Pairing Cucumber, Cilantro and Five-Spice Powder. I #2––Young won; and Pairing #3––Lauren felt the hoisin made the red too tannic, and it won. When the total votes were tallied, Lauren made the Dry Riesling too sharp in its acid- won the Sommelier Smackdown by six points. ity. The wines were excellent on their own, but This event was supported by Ste. Michelle I was not a fan of either pairing. Wine Estates, Alaska Seafood Marketing Insti- The attendees cast their votes. While the tute and Cabot Creamery Cooperative. votes were being counted, Jo-Ann played (L-R): Becky Sue Epstein, Jo-Ann Ross, and Lori Willis. Becky Sue Epstein demon- strates sabrage, a tradition started by cavalry officers in Napoleon’s army. Photos by Susan Slack

WINTER Quarterly 2015 21

KK 1641 Orange Sauce Ad_final.indd 1 12/17/14 2:10 PM chapter NEws Janet Burgess (LA/OC) Atlanta | Austin | Birmingham | Boston | British Columbia, Canada | Charleston | Chicago Cleveland/Northeast Ohio | Colorado | Dallas | Hawaii | Houston | Kansas City/Heart of America London, England | Los Angeles/Orange County | Miami | MINNESOTA | Monterey Bay Area | NASHVILLE New York | Northeast | Palm Springs | Philadelphia | Phoenix | San Antonio | San Diego San Francisco | Seattle | St. Louis | Washington

ATLANTA At the auction launch, Michele Shelley Pedersen, CPCE moderated a “food feud,” pitting experienced members against During a lovely fall evening on October 21, Atlanta new ones with culinary ques- Dames, armed with sips of wines and waters, mingled tions about Austin. It was a tight with colleagues from Wholesome Wave Georgia contest, but the “experienced” (WWG) at Preserving Place, one of Atlanta's newest team won the priceless towering culinary retail and experience shops. WWG is one of trophy built of children's plastic the chapter's seven philanthropic beneficiaries. Atlanta play food. We’re just living up Dames produce their annual Culinary Yard Sale at to our city's motto, ”Keep WWG's Grant Park Farmers Market. During the Austin Weird.” 2013/2014 seasons they donated $24,000 to WWG through the chapter's philanthropy program. BOSTON Lucille Giovino What a way to open the 2014 Boston Conference! On the eve of hosting the conference, Boston Dames were invited to the presen- tation of a proclamation Helen Chen unveils a “Celebrity Chef issued by City of Cam- Forever” stamp commemorating Julia Child, bridge Mayor David Maher while Mayor Mahe looks on. Lucille Giovino to honor the legacy of long unveils a stamp honoring Helen’s mother, time Cambridge resident Chef Joyce Chen. Photo: Steven Chen. Atlanta Dames networking at Preserving Place––no one and culinary guru, Julia does it better! Photos by Mr. Travis S. Taylor. Atlanta. Child. The proclamation WWG's Executive Director, Sara Berney, offered cited her devotion to local chefs, the culinary industry and her member- an overview of the organization’s history, programs ship in LDEI. and mission. Members of the board of directors She, along with four other honored chefs, James Beard, Joyce Chen, shared how LDEI Atlanta's support over the years has Edna Lewis and Felipe Rojas-Lombardi, were chosen by the United positively impacted Georgia families in need, and how States Postal Service as the five chefs on their new Celebrity Chefs the chapter's continued involvement with WWG not Forever Stamp. President Lee Napoli, Joan Sweeney, Juliana Lyman, only affects the day-to-day lives of adults and children, and Lucille Giovino attended the city hall celebration and the unveil- but also the farmers who produce the foods purchased ing of the life-size poster of the Julia Child stamp. This was displayed within the program. along with the official proclamation in the hospitality suite at confer- The venue, Preserving Place, was a flawless backdrop ence headquarters at the Royal Sonesta Hotel. Special thanks to Steven for this program. It's a unique farm-to-store retail Chen, Joyce Chef Foods, for permission to reprint accompanying concept focusing on food preservation and preserv- photo. (joycechenfoods.com) ing the Southern “sense of place.” In the spirit of the season, Martha McMillin, a lawyer-turned-canner and British Columbia store owner, shared her story as well as a lively canning Susie Meister tutorial. She prepared light appetizers for the gathering, Gala Chairs Susie Meister and Margaret Chisholm, along with their featuring many of the products and flavors in the store. committee, put in many hours of expertise to pull together a magi- cal night of food, wine, and culinary heroes. The evening raised over AUSTIN $49,000 for the chapter. All funds go to support the outreach and Kitty Crider scholarship programs of the BC Chapter, including Project Chef and The Austin Chapter raised $12,757 in its sixth Growing Chefs. annual Food Fight!, an online culinary auction. The This year's theme, “Into the Garden with John,” paid tribute to Van- event featured more than 75 items, with Franklin's couver’s iconic Chef John Bishop––owner of Bishop’s restaurant, slow Barbecue Dinner for 30 bringing in the highest bid food proponent, and the person who created the farm-to-table move- at $3,080. Oh yeah! That's the way the smoke blows ment in Canada's restaurant scene. He played a pivotal role in changing in Central Texas. And we are so grateful to Stacey the way Canadian chefs prepare meals. Franklin and her husband Aaron for the donation. At a stunning, single long table for 100 guests at the Four Seasons Ho- Cathy Strange chaired the auction again and tel, industry luminaries, guests, and family joined television host––and brought Dames Tiffany Cunningham and Michele longtime Bishop’s fan, Fanny Keefer at an elegant champagne reception Haram on board to learn and lead the committee for hosted by Moet & Chandon. The reception was followed by a multi- next year. course dinner to honor John.

22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Joining Les Dames for this extraordinary culinary celebration were some At the conclusion of dinner, Terry demonstrated the process of Canada's top chefs under the leadership of award-winning Executive of making fresh almond milk in the Vitamix, then she gave the Chef Margaret Chisholm of Culinary Capers Catering, and the event Dames a tour of the new facility. host, Executive Chef Ned Bell of the Four Seasons Hotel. Bishop’s alumni chefs included Ron Shaw, Michael Allemeier, Jeff VanGeest, Adam Busby, Dallas and Dames Andrea Carlson, Claire May, Lesley Stowe, and Wendy Boys. The wines of British Columbia also played a pivotal role in the Jennifer Brightman Moschel evening, representing the very best of the local vintages alongside some of On a warm, September Sunday afternoon, we prepared for the world's best old-world wines. our annual fundraiser, The Raiser Grazer, normally held in the spring. Dames made a splash at the newly opened Shed 1 at the Dallas Farmers Market. Janet Cobb––from one of the families CHARLESTON supporting the market’s new direction––helped co-chair the Teresa Taylor event along with Lynn Mattie. Charleston had a fall to remember, raising $16,345 for culinary and The festive venue showcased Dames paired with local farm- hospitality scholarship funding at its annual Autumn Affair––more ers and growers in their “space.” The evening cooled down to a delightful temperature––even by Dallas standards––and Shed 1 came alive with great food, wine, and music. On October 12, Janice Provost put together an all-female live auction for the infamous Cattle Baron’s Ball benefiting cancer research. The participating Dames were: Tiffany Derry, Dunia Borga, Joanne Bondy, Hayley Hamilton Cogill, and of course, Janice. These fine ladies raised $13,000! Charleston’s newest members: Jeanne de Camilla, Ann Marshall, Cassondra Our induction and annual dinner was held late in October at Hall-Bushey, Gillian Zettler, Nikki Root, Jamee Haley, Carol Rice, Rhonda Dun- the Arlington Hilton. What a great evening of getting to know ning, Maggie White, Marilyn Markel. our new Dames and enjoying the fine cuisine that Chef Michael West prepared! We dined family style on appetizers such as than double the amount raised in 2013. Scallop Carpaccio, Braised Rabbit and Fried Root Vegetable The event, only in its fourth year, is held at historic Lowndes Grove Spring Rolls. Our main course was served à la carte, and options Plantation, thanks to the generous support of President Jennifer included Black Bass with Spanish Chorizo Chimichurri, Grilled Goldman and Patrick Properties. And what a splendid stage for the Quail with Persimmon Puree, and Pasilla Braised Pork Shoulder food, wine, music, and silent auction of this special evening! The plan- with Sweet Potato Gnocchi. The meal was surpassed only by the tation, a National Historic Landmark, dates to 1786 and is downtown fine company. Charleston’s last great waterfront estate. Set on 14 acres on the banks of the Ashley River, its lawn is resplendent with live oaks dripping Hawaii Spanish moss. As the sun set over the river, glasses clinked and nibbles were served Hayley Matson-Mathes by Charleston’s top artisan food producers. Around 200 guests gath- The Hawaii Chapter gathered on the Big Island of Hawaii for ered around an impressive display of silent auction items–50 in all, farm tours and the annual Escoffier dinner on November 22- Lesley Hill and bidding began in earnest, urged on by passionate and gregarious 23. and Michael Crowell hosted a tour of the Wailea celebrity Chef Bob Waggoner. Agricultural Group, their 110-acre, diversified farm operation Auction items included chefs’ dinners, a pig pulling, a class with Nathalie Dupree, and a cocktail party setup featuring locally made spirits from High Wire Distillery. New this year was a special VIP Reception inside the main house, hosted by Cassondra Hall-Bushey of Moet-Hennessey. Rare wine and spirit tastings were offered from the portfolio, paired with small bites from Chef Michelle Weaver of Charleston Grill. Kudos for a very successful launch! Autumn Affair will be back in 2015 at the same time of the LDEI Dinner at Big Island Bees. Front Row (L-R): Patti Kimball, Pam Cooper, conference in Charleston. It’s not to be missed––y’all come! Kathi Saks, Lorna Larson-Jeyte, Dorothy Colby, Cheryl To, Lori Wong, Jean Hull, Hayley Matson-Mathes, Possie Badham. Second row: Dianne Vicheinrut (face partially obscured), Carol Whitaker, Nancy Edney, Sandy Cleveland Barr-Rivera (glasses). Back row: Tracy Reddekopp, Laurie Carlson, Lesley Shara Bohach Hill, Liz Anderson, Joan Namkoong, Holly Hadsell-el-Hajji (partially obscured), Clare Bobo, gentleman guest, guest and Barbara Campbell. On November 3, we enjoyed an informative, delicious evening of demonstrations with tips for healthy vegan and gluten-free cooking, on the Hamakua Coast. They restored former sugar cane lands served with vegan wine. The event was hosted by Terry Frick ––the to produce Hawaiian Heart of Palm, tropical flowers, fruits, and owner of Frickaccio’s, and Chef Todd Rothman at their new facility on spices. Lesley hosted 2014 Legacy Awards winner Jane Anderson the West Side of Cleveland. This facility houses a new café open to the for a weeklong Hawaii Farm Experience. public, and it is where Frickaccio's does the baking for its West Side The tour proceeded to Joan Namkoong's picturesque Market store and retailers. Waimea home for a 100 percent, locally sourced lunch including Dinner consisted of an abundant, progressive tasting menu that artisan bread and sweets from Kevin and Kay Cabrera's Sand- balanced lighter and heartier dishes, with explanations of flavors, wich Isle Bread Company. John and Nancy Edney provided a ingredients, and processes along the way. Dames tasted various gluten- tour of their Tropical Dreams Ice Cream store and we enjoyed free and vegan breads with spreads; organic veggie pizza bagels; vegan luscious tastings of super-premium ice cream. Kevin and Kay, crabcakes made with shredded hearts of palm; portobello bisque; both passionate bakers, also gave us a tour of their baking facil- strawberry/hazelnut salad; vegan paprikash; and almond milk "ice ity, which is in the same location. cream" with flourless chocolate cake. The evening concluded with a locally sourced dinner prepared

WINTER Quarterly 2015 23 by Fairmont Orchid Executive Chef Hubert des Marais. Lesley Antonio community by helping to establish educational Hill created the centerpieces, provided heart of palm and exotic culinary programs and produce gardens in local schools, fruits for the seven-course feast. Amy Ferguson orchestrated the as well as changing state policy to develop healthy school exceptional wine pairings for the evening. food programs for children. On Sunday morning, the Dames traveled to Whendi Grad's The chapter was busy helping relocate and build new Big Island Bees for a tour and sweet lunch. garden beds for Wilson MIAMI Elemen- tary School. Ellen Kanner It was a nice, Our summer membership drive crisp morn- earned us 14 new members and 5 ing and the returning members. LDEI Miami hardworking is bigger, more diverse, and more kids, parents, energized than we've ever been. That's a great reason to party! and teachers On November 14, our annual Achievement Award Escoffier wore beautiful Dinner honored Michelle Bernstein, Miami's own James Beard, smiles as they award-winning chef and returning Dame. One hundred and fifty carried blocks, Dames and friends attended the glittering event at The Ritz-Carl- spread soil, and ton in Coconut Grove, with a five-course meal prepared by new shaped the Dame and Ritz chef Ashley Stanton. The glamour, great food, garden beds. San Antonio's new members: Dya Campos, wine, and fun also served an important cause. The Escoffier Din- Ming Qian, Charlotte Samuel, Kathleen The children ner is the chief source of raising money for our scholarship fund. Mayes, Dion Turner, Crystal Dady, Denise planted the The event was co-chaired this year by Alejandra Bigai and Susan Mazal, Tanji Patton, and Jennifer Beckmann. beds with a Not pictured: Anne NG Lorraine. San Antonio Brustman, and assisted by President Dorothee Rubin, wide variety Chapter celebrated its new members with a To keep up with all the activities within our chapter and all the of vegetables, Latin-themed dinner. The San Antonio Dames events and appearances by individual Dames, we've launched a (wearing dark blue aprons) and the Sysco Cor- which will monthly e-newsletter. We enjoyed our annual holiday party at poration feed wounded warriors through the make their way the home of our treasurer, Lucila Jimenez. Wounded Warrior Project®. Photo courtesy of to the school Stephen Higgs. cafeteria after New York they mature Margaret Happel Perry Ten new members were welcomed into the San Antonio September came in fast and furious to launch LDNY's busy sea- Chapter in September. The diversity and experience of our son. On September 16, thanks to Hiroko Shimbo and the Rock- new members is very exciting as we continue to develop in' Ramen tasting, we learned about and enjoyed the perfection of informative events, productive gardens, and fundraise for three distinct styles of ramen, as they are known only in Japan. On our community. September 23, we welcomed nine new LDNY members. Dorothy Cann Hamilton was invited to be the keynote speaker—a first for San Francisco the occasion. Her dynamic speech focused on the capabilities of Fran Gage women. She also told of her role as president of the U.S. Pavilion, San Francisco Dames and their guests were treated to a which is part of the upcoming EXPO 2015 in Milan, Italy. We ap- fig-centric day on August 16, when we visited the Wolf- plaud Dorothy in leading the way and proving women rule! The skill Germplasm Repository, a USDA agricultural research first of October’s two outstanding events featured a tea tasting at facility in Winters, California. The repository preserves a Harney & Sons, a long-established store in Soho, with Jan Hazard staggering variety of crops––figs included, and makes them and Joanna Pruess co-chairing the event. Later in the month Bay available for research. Our group wandered among the fig Wellington and Renee Marton staged a women and wellness trees, sampling as many as we could muster, then retired to event, to understand food mood connections and how Mediter- nearby Preserve restaurant for a fig-in-every-course lunch. ranean food lifestyles can contribute to better health. Michele Three new Dames, Cindy Daniel, Lane Giguiere, and Scicolone was one of the featured speakers. The LDEI-Carol Andrea Nguyen, were inducted at the September Induc- Brock-Fales Library project came to a magnificent conclusion with tion Dinner at Wente Vineyards. Jessica Battilana received Rozanne Gold organizing a celebration at New York University a $2,500 check as the recipient of the Karola Saekal Craib where Carol Brock was honored. All the books purchased by this Food Journalism Fellowship. great initiative were on display. LDEI has left its mark for poster- Deborah Rogers led a group on a tour of the McEvoy ity at Fales. The traditional end-of-year party at Pamela Morgan's Ranch and explained the process that turns olives into gracious Fifth Avenue apartment was a joyous occasion at which olive oil. We made our way through the olive groves to a we welcomed Linda Lawry, the new LDNY president. pavilion at the top of the property for a tasty lunch and a sampling of the ranch's wine, a new venture for them. San Antonio Our chapter celebrated its 25th anniversary on October Blanca Aldaco 25 with a scrumptious lunch hosted by Grande Dame Dames Susan Johnson, Susan Jaime, Elizabeth Johnson, and Dolores Cakebread at her winery in the Napa Valley. Heather Hunter are part of the newly formed San Antonio Farm- Jerry Di Vecchio estimated that we have had about 165 to-School Work Group. This committee was formed under the um- members over the years, including M.F.K. Fisher and four brella of the Food Policy Council started by newly appointed U.S. Grande Dames—Dolores, Jerry, Alice Waters, and Marion HUD Secretary Julian Castro––then-mayor of San Antonio. The Cunningham. work group's vision is to grow a healthy school food environment. In November, Jerry hosted what is becoming an annual The local chapter's Green Tables committee is active in the welcome lunch for our new Dames in her home. movement to change and prevent “food deserts” in the San 24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International LDEI Ad 2014_Layout 1 9/25/14 10:59 AM Page 1 Seattle Braiden Rex-Johnson and Nicole Aloni Our Global Culinary Initiative Committee sponsored an inspirational monthly meet- ing in mid-September with Project Feast at the Pike Place Market Atrium Kitchen. Project Feast is an ambi- tious new nonprofit organization with the mission of helping refu- gee and immigrant women cooks find employment in Seattle. During the program, guest chefs & demonstrated cooking techniques You can always depend on Mahatma and from Eritrea, and served Dames Outgoing President Anne Nisbet (L) Carolina Rice for Great Taste, and women-professional guests and Dame Kari Leitch, Vice President of Communications of Ste. Michelle Wine Texture and Flavor! an exotically delicious dinner Estates, at Seattle’s Annual General with dishes from Eritrea, Burma, Meeting in October. Photo by Kather- and Iran such as Iraqi Kubba and ine Kehrli. The Seattle Chapter’s Annual Burmese Laphet Thoke. General Meeting included a tour of Chateau Ste. Michelle’s impressive In late October, rows of decora- production facilities. Photo by Braiden tive grapevines welcomed Seattle Rex-Johnson. Dames to Woodinville, Wash- ington, and Chateau Ste. Michelle, one of Washington State's most iconic wineries, for the chapter's 25th Annual General Meeting. Thirty-five women gathered in the winery's warm and welcoming re- ception area to toast the evening. Several Dames enjoyed a quick tour of the winery, which was built on the 1912 estate owned by Seattle lumber baron Frederick Stimson. Dinner was a lovely Sole and Scallop Mousse, Cabernet-Braised Short Ribs, and Tarte Tatin, all paired with CSM wines including the top-tier For this Tandoori Chicken with Spiced Pilaf and Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Artist Series Meritage and CSM & Dr. Cucumber Riata recipe and more visit Loosen 2006 Eroica Ice Wine. mahatmarice.com or carolinarice.com Outgoing President, Anne Nisbet, passed the gavel to incoming Presi- dent, Katherine Kehrli, in the traditional ceremony. And, in a historic vote, the chapter overwhelmingly voted to amend the process by which it invites qualified women to become members. “And now we are off,” President Kehrli said. “How exciting for us to welcome new members with a brand-new process this spring!” in memoriam where restaurants are thriving. parents owned a Chinese restaurant in Sue Ling Gin (Chicago) But it was an encounter with a bad, Aurora), Gin was interested in immigrant half-frozen sweet roll on a business flight issues and sat on the board of the Chi- By Carol Mighton Haddix in 1982 that launched her journey to cago Council of Global Affairs. She also Sue Lin Gin was a real estate maven, CEO of a multi-million dollar firm, Flying served on the boards of many charities restaurateur, CEO, and one of the most Food Group, Inc. As she related to Crain’s and businesses, including Chicago Botanic powerful business women in the Chicago Chicago Business recently, she felt airline Gardens, DePaul University, Exelon, The area. She died September 23 at age 73 after food could be better, so she wrote to the Field Museum, The Foundation for the suffering a stroke. chairman of Midway Airlines to say so, National Archives, Washington, D.C., and A true entrepre- and ended up with a contract to supply Rush University Medical Center. neur, Gin began meals to the airline. Some 30 years later, She also headed the board of the William her career with Flying Food serves more than 70 interna- G. McGowan Charitable Fund, which ad- odd jobs after tional airlines, including British Airways, vances the legacy of her late husband, who college, including Air France-KLM, Quantas, and Royal was chairman of MCI Communications. a short stint as a Jordanian, as well as retail outlets such as The Fund’s board statement described Gin: Playboy Bunny Starbucks. Crain’s reports her firm had “Sue felt great responsibility to her hus- waitress. But she $435 million in revenue in 2013. band’s legacy, and her relentless passion for eventually found As an early member of Les Dames Chi- creative initiative—backed by her refusal a career in real es- cago, Gin enjoyed discussing food trends, to ever take ‘no’ for an answer—pushed tate in the 1980s, searching for ways to always improve the the Fund in new directions. Though she including owning several restaurants, such quality and selection of food from her is irreplaceable, the Fund can commit to as Café Bernard in Lincoln Park. She was company’s 20 kitchens around the country. emulating her ‘can-do spirit,’ scrupulous an early investor in loft properties in the Coming from an immigrant family (her standards and essential generosity.” now-hot Randolph Street Market area

WINTER Quarterly 2015 25 Member Milestones Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia) Austin On December 10, the Charleston Food spoke on the rock- Toni Tipton-Martin was the recipient of and Wine Festival honored Nathalie as eting revival of the a John Egerton Prize from the Southern founding chairman with a fundraiser at heirloom fruit since Foodways Alliance. It is awarded to some- the restaurant, Slightly North of Broad. the publication of one whose work addresses issues of race, Simply Quince in class, gender, social and environment CHICAGO 2009. justice through the lens of food. Toni’s Sharon Olson published a new study by forthcoming book is The Jemima Code: Culinary Vision’s Panel and presented New York 150 Timeless African-American Cookbooks highlights at the International Flavor Ex- JoAnne Cloughy Barbara Ghazarian and Their Extraordinary Legacy. perience Conference in Newport Beach, chaired SUNY CA on millennial and boomer snacking Cobleskill’s Annual Culinary Extrava- Iliana de la Vega , behaviors throughout the day in nine dif- ganza, a food and wine tasting event chef of El Naranjo, ferent foodservice and retail venues. featuring NYS wines and local chefs/ received the Ohtli alum chefs, with over 250 in atten- Award from the Cleveland dance. The event raised $13,000 for Mexican Consul. Beth Knorr was one of 25 appointed scholarship endeavors. This is one of the members to the U.S. Department of Claire Criscuolo highest distinctions Agriculture Fruit and Vegetable Industry , who established her the Mexican gov- Advisory Committee, which will advise New Haven, CT vegetarian restaurant, ernment gives to the secretary of agriculture on issues af- Claire’s Corner Copia, in 1975, was community leaders Iliana de la Vega fecting the fruit and vegetable industry. honored by the North East Organic who live abroad. In Farming Association of Connecticut on fall 2014, Iliana was Gloria Cipri-Kemer July 18. Claire authored four vegetarian named Hispanic owner of Emerald cookbooks. Her restaurant was rated Female Entrepre- Necklace Inn and among the top 10 healthiest in the neur of the Year by Tearoom hosted country by MSNBC. a Gala Afternoon the Greater Austin Nora Favelukes Tea October 3 in , wine expert and part- Hispanic Chamber ner to CUNY City Tech, received a of Commerce. celebration of the 100th anniversary of highly merited award from the college. Erika Bongort Carla Williams the 1914 Cleveland Lynn Fredericks, founder of Fam- recently passed suffrage march in Gloria Cipri-Kemer ily Cook Productions, received funds the test to become a Certified Cheese remembrance of suf- from the American Dairy Associa- Professional for the American Cheese frage legend, Josephine Saxer Irwin, who tion Council to develop a curriculum Society. Erika is a cheesemonger for helped women win the right to vote. and programs for teen-aged youth Whole Foods Market and a chef instruc- to address health food access in their tor for Austin Community College. DALLAS community. Twelve NYC schools Carla Williams was inducted into the Liz Brown and husband, Jim Baron, will be chosen to conduct the project Disciples d’Escoffier des Hauts de France opened Tacos and Tequila in San Anto- activities. nio and another at the Quadrangle in as an Epicure by Michel Escoffier, great- Jane Kettlewell Uptown, Dallas. , co-founder of Cre- grandson of Auguste Escoffier. Carla is ative Palate, a public relations and career services director and farm-to-table HAWAII marketing firm for vintners and wine coordinator of the Auguste Escoffier Whendi Grad, importers was featured in a June 23 School of Culinary Arts in Austin. co-owner of Big BBC.com article about high-powered women professionals who are redefin- BOSTON Island Bees, was ing success. www.bbc.com/capital/ Lydia Shire the recipient of , chef/ story/20140623-a-matter-of-time owner of Scampo, the 2014 Ho’okela has a new restau- Award for The Fast- Karen Page is launching The Vegetar- rant on the horizon; est Growing Retailer Whendi Grad ian Flavor Bible, with photographs by location is a Boston of the Year. her husband and co-author, Andrew suburb. Although Audrey Wilson, a 2014 YWCA Big Is- Dornenburg. her restaurant is land Remarkable Person, and director of Carole Walter launched School of known for its fois Lydia Shire Big Island Wellness Solutions nonprofit, Baking, on-line courses for amateurs gras and crackling, received a grant to address childhood and professional alike, at a fraction of it ranked highly in a recent national top obesity. Her book, Hawaii Healthy Me, the cost of in-person lessons. www. 100 pizza survey with its lamb, ricotta, was distributed to 4th graders. www. carolewalter.com/school parmesan, sriracha, and mint version. hawaiihealthyme.org Carole was selected to write an in-depth article on the “History of Charleston Monterey Bay Meringue” for The Oxford Companion Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree and Barbara Ghazarian celebrated the “Year to Sweets, to be published early 2015. Atlanta Dame Cynthia Graubart have a of the Quince” with orchardists at a con- new book coming out in the early spring ference hosted by the Home Orchard Philadelphia titled, Mastering the Art of Southern Society, North American Fruit Explorers Christina Sygnecki, Wine Director for Vegetables (Gibbs Smith, March 2015). and California Rare Fruit Growers. She Traino’s Wine & Spirits, was featured in

26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International “The Best of the Best honors the legacy of Auguste Escoffier. The Magazine named the Academy’s One 2014” issue of South ceremony was held at the Clement in Mon- World Restaurant as the “Best of the West: Jersey Magazine. This terey, CA. Best Lunch Deal.” SCA was described as was the second year in the older cooking school west of the Mis- a row that she received San Francisco sissippi and one of the most progressive. Georgeanne Bren- the distinction of the Renee Erickson, owner/founder of several Best Wine Selector in nan announces the launch of La Vie Rustic, successful Seattle restaurants and busi- this region. nesses, has been receiving rave reviews for Christina Sygnecki culinary and garden SAN ANTONIO products that celebrate her first cookbook, A Boat, a Whale & a Susan Johnson and Susan Jaime, Green sustainable living in the Walrus. Not only was the book recom- Tables Committee LDEISA, successfully French style. Many of mended by The Seattle Times, but Renee finished the training to become Certified the products incorpo- was featured in a cover story in the news- Junior Master Gardeners. This certification rate ingredients grown paper’s Pacific Northwest magazine. allows them to teach children how to start on her small farm in Georgeanne Brennan Fran Bigelow, founder of Fran’s Choco- a produce garden in their school using the Northern California, lates, received excellent press coverage on JMG Curriculum, which also correlates with such as Sel de Figue. www.lavierustic.com the relocation of her company’s factory the 4H learning skills used in math, science Jeanette Ferrary’s presentation at the and retail store to the old Seattle Brewing and language. San Francisco Book Club Symposium on and Malting Co. site. San Diego Gastronomy and Fine Print in October was Bridget Charters, well-respected chef Candy Wallace was titled “Everything Reminds Me of Sex.” It instructor, is the director of Hot Stove inducted by Michel featured the humor of M.F.K. Fisher and her Society, a year-round cooking school oper- Escoffier and Dame elegiac words on food as well as her stint as a ated by Tom Douglas Restaurants. She Mary Chamberlin, gag writer for Paramount pictures. is also a culinary producer for an Emmy Monterey Bay Chapter Candy Wallace award-winning cooking show and several Seattle wine and food festivals around the U.S., into the prestigious Karen Jurgensen, Fourth Quarter Fine international gastro- including Aspen, South Beach and Food Dining Chef Instructor at Seattle Culinary Network NYCWFF. nomic society, Disciples of Escoffier, which Academy (SCA) was honored when Sunset

WINTER Quarterly 2015 27 (L-R): Philadelphia President Barbara Samson, LDEI Immediate-Past President Beth Allen (New York), Philadelphia Immediate-Past President Kathy Gold, and Carol Brock (New York).

(L-R): Guest Ane Marie Kiss, Auction Co-Chair Janet Chrzan, and Anniversary Party Co-Chair Dottie Koteski. This festive Chocolate Cake with Chocolate Mousse and fondant is topped with the LDEI logo. Dame Amy Beth Edelman––chef/bakery owner.

Happy 30th Anniversary, Philadelphia Chapter! By Beth Allen (New York) tonight: Dames Claire Boasi, Susanna Foo, Aliza Green, and Kathleen Mulhern.” On that beautiful fall day of October 12, 2014, Our founders chartered the fifth chapter of Les celebrating was in the air, and especially inside the Dames d’Escoffier in 1984, enabling Les Dames Moonstruck Restaurant in the Fox Chase section d’Escoffier International to be formed. Today, of Northeast Philadelphia. About 80 members and our chapter has grown from 16 to 69 members… guests had gathered for a gala celebration to wish and LDEI, to an international organization of 30 the Philadelphia Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier chapters, with over 1800 members.” a very Happy 30th Anniversary. Two guests from the New York Chapter joined in We were warmly welcomed by Claire DiLullo the celebration. Beth Allen (now LDEI immedi- and her husband Toto Schiavone–– the owners ate past president) brought “congratulations from of Moonstruck. Their grand Milan-style restau- LDEI’s Board of Directors.” LDEI Founder Carol rant is famous for its exquisite Northern Italian Brock shared stories and a special photograph taken cuisine. Joe DiLullo originally opened it in 1979 in the lobby of the New York Daily News building, as Ristorante DiLullo, under the guidance of from the official 1986 gala, launching LDEI and cookbook author Marcella Hazan. Today, the honoring our first five founding chapters.” traditions of the family’s impressive heritage and The anniversary celebration evolved into a exemplary cuisine continue. The lovely cake with "lavender sprigs" festive, elegant, spectacular affair, featuring a This “Happy Anniversary” event had been was from a culinary student at The five-course menu––each complemented with a Restaurant School, mentored by Dame many months in the planning. Kudos to Co- wonderful wine, plus an artisan chocolate and Marie Stecher. A seasonal Harvest Gala Chairs Dottie Koteski and Claire DiLullo; Nina cheese tasting. The grand finale was the des- Sponge Cake with Red Wine Gelée and Sygnecki, wine chair; Kelly Morrison, auction sert course, featuring anniversary cakes used as Citrus Butter Cream. Pat Ward–food chair––and their committees! The moment we the table centerpieces. Each one was uniquely stylist. Chocolate Raspberry Dream Cake arrived, the celebration began with a festive re- with LDEI Logo–Devil’s Food with Layer designed, deliciously created, and professionally ception and an auction, which successfully raised of Cheesecake Enrobed in a Raspberry decorated by Philadelphia Dames, friends and/or about $4,000 for the scholarship fund and Julie Fudge Icing. Dame Nancy Morozin–– pastry students. It was truly a gala celebration! Restaurateur. Rich, dark chocolate Dannenbaum Endowment fund. A bounty of thanks was given to the sponsors: cascaded down the side of this Coconut, “Tonight we are celebrating a remarkable Red Velvet and Marble Layered Cake. Opera Wine Import, LLC; Primordia Farm milestone––30 years as a chapter,” announced Mushrooms; Mocha Artisan Chocolates; and Valley Dame Lynn Buono––chef/caterer. Barbara Samson President . “We thank the 16 Milkhouse Cheeses owned by Stephanie Angstadt. Pumpkin Cake with Vanilla Old Fash- founding chapter members and all those who ioned Icing and French macarons on top. The program book was created by Jennifer Hoff of Whipped Bake Shop. have followed. Four of our founders are present Hoff Communications Inc. 28 Les Dames d’Escoffier International T WO C REEKS V INEYARDS Pinot Noir

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30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Aloha! Please join me in welcoming LDEI's Social Media administrator Tara Anderson. We are fortunate to have her talent, enthusiasm, and expertise. I encourage you to follow LDEI on Facebook and Twitter. Join the conversation. Submission Guidelines Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii) Deadlines 2015 SPRING ISSUE - JANUARY 10, 2015 Stay Connected 2015 SUMMER ISSUE - APRIL 10, 2015 Through 2015 FALL ISSUE - AUGUST 1, 2015 Social Media Photography/Images Electronic images must be properly focused and in color with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). Cell phone photos are acceptable if they By Tara Anderson meet resolution requirements. Do not send photos taken off the Internet or (Dallas) embedded with text in Word files or PDF files. Please identify individuals in Our social media presence is photos from left to right in the message of your email. Include photo credits, if required, and captions. ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST COME WITH CAPTIONS growing thanks to our mem- TO BE PUBLISHED. ber’s interest. My goal by Member Milestones January 2015 LIST DAME’S NAME and XXX CHAPTER. Each Dame may submit up to 50 forAloha! Facebook Please join me words about honors or important business-related activities, as preferred, isin 1000welcoming follow - LDEI's to appear in print. You may email a quality headshot to accompany your ers––weSocial Media are adminis- news. Press releases and cookbook covers are not accepted. Email your justtrator over Tara 900 An- derson. We Member Milestone and photo to Member Milestone Editor, Dottie Koteski at now.are fortunate If you to have her [email protected] by the deadline listed above. Entries received after these dates may appear in a following issue. Photos of Dames networking at wanttalent, toenthusiasm, see our conferenceand expertise. I encourage you to follow LDEI on Facebook and Twitter. conferences or other chapter events may also be sent to this section. Note: Due buzz, put this into your search to space constraints, only two Member Milestones will be published per Dame engine and see for yourself: per year. #ldei2014 Chapter News Please take time to like us CHAPTER XXX (By, the submitter's name, office-or title, if any). Each chapter on Facebook and follow us may submit 250 words as you would like to see it in print. You may include on Twitter. There are a cou- photos to accompany your news, noting photography requirements above. ple pages out there but the Submissions that exceed the word count will be edited. (A lengthy submission official one does not require on a special chapter event could be considered for a feature; contact the editor us to accept you. Please in advance.) Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don't have space to print full menus but menu items can be included in the copy. Submissions not follow the links below for conforming to this format may not be printed due to deadlines and volunteer’s the correct one. lack of time. Email to Janet Burgess at [email protected] by the deadline date. Entries received after this date may appear in the following issue. Note: "Chapter News" and "Member Milestones" may be dispersed through LDEI social-media channels, as well as in print and online. https://www.facebook.com/ LDEIdamesdescoffier E-News This bimonthly publication will keep you informed about events in other chapters and encourages networking. Press releases are not accepted. Include an email contact, date, time, and cost for chapter events. Lack of space prevents member milestones, product news, listing of cooking classes, https://twitter.com/ or tours. You will receive a reminder call for “E-News” email. Respond to DamesdEscoffier E-News Editor, Shelley Pedersen, at [email protected] If you have something to FRONT COVER: Boston scenes: Susan Slack. contribute that is social media PAGE 2: Hayley Matson-Mathes, Marie Upcoming worthy, why not include a Kelley, Dorothy Colby. Photo: Mike Mathes. in the photo since it will get much Mary Moore, Jane Lee, Marie Gomez- more attention. List your spring issue Laurens. Photo: AEC. Mushroom-Crusted preference as to social media • Dame Dorothy Cann outlet. Currently, LDEI only Sirloin. Photo: CiCi Williamson. PAGE 4: Hamilton Helps Raise manages our Facebook and Quincy Market & Hospitality. Photos: Twitter pages. Thanks so Susan Slack. Boston scene: Mike Mathes. $60 Million for U.S. much! Reception photos: AEC & Mike Mathes. Pavilion at 2015 World's Fair in Milan Tara Anderson PAGE 20 Renie Steves and Toria Emas. Social Media Administrator Photo: Susan Slack. Washington Chapter & • 2015 Board of Directors Local Beet Salad. Photos: CiCi Willamson. [email protected] • The 2014 Legacy Beth Allen & Lori Willis. Nina Mukerjee Recipients Furstenau. Photos: AEC. FALL Quarterly 2014 31 Atlanta PREsorted Austin First Class Birmingham u s Postage Boston P.O. Box 4961 British Columbia, Canada paid Charleston Louisville, KY 40204 Louisville KY Chicago Permit #1051 Cleveland/Northeast Ohio Colorado Dallas Hawaii Houston Kansas City/Heart of America London, England Los Angeles/Orange County Miami Minnesota Monterey Bay Area Nashville New York Northeast Palm Springs Philadelphia Phoenix San Antonio San Diego San Francisco Seattle St. Louis Washington

Deidre Schipani (Charleston) drugstore in 1783; and the first golf course in 1786. On OCTOBER 29, 2015 the first Les Charleston, South Carolina lives history. Dames d’Escoffier conference will travel south Charming three hundred-year-old to this historic city along the banks of the cobblestone streets wind past her antebellum Ashley and Cooper Rivers. mansions and an upward glance sees a skyline Here you will find Spanish moss trailing live of steeples, not skyscrapers. oak trees; tea olive and Carolina jessamine She is a city preserved by the constant perfuming the air with heady sweetness hung retelling of her past and protected by the in humidity. Here, antiques and boutiques passion of her people. First to establish the enchant with equal pleasure. Heirloom and oldest community-based historic Preservation heritage, both seeds and recipes, define a Ordinance in 1920, this is an American port city of innovation and inspiration. In the city of firsts: home to the first European fall of 2015, Charleston charm is all yours attempt at settlement in 1526; home to to experience––one sweet, civil smile at a the first free library in 1698; the first opera time. From the Dames who brought performed on American soil in 1735; Dock you tiaras and Halloween Street Theatre–the first theater built in the haberdashery, American Colonies in 1736; the first formally LDEI––it is time to landscaped garden planted at Middleton “Do Charleston”–– Place in 1741 (which still enchants); the first October 29-November 1, public museum in 1773; the first prescription 2015.