FROM THE CHIEF MINISTER’S DESK

WASH A’AATKEY!

On behalf of the people of Balochistan, I take great pride in warmly welcoming the distinguished international delegates attending the Asian Parliamentary Assembly’s Standing Committees’ meetings hosted by the Senate of to , the future of Pakistan.

Balochistan has a proud history that stretches back to 7000 BC. The people who resided here 9000 years ago were well ahead in terms of arts, crafts, medicine, etc. Choosing Gwadar as the host city is a testament to one of APA’s core objectives i.e. regional cooperation. I sincerely appreciate the efforts undertaken by the forum in nearly two decades for the realization of its objectives.

I pray for the success of the meetings that will take place in the city that is on the verge of shaping not only the future of Pakistan but will act as fulcrum point for regional cooperation. It is also my hope that deliberations that will take place during your stay here will further the core objectives of APA. The people of Gwadar are proud to host you in their city and I hope their hospitality will become one of the good memory of your time here. Once again, I welcome you all to our city and wish you a successful stay and experience.

CHIEF MINISTER BALOCHISTAN Jam Kamal FROM THE SENATOR’S DESK

SALAM!

It is my most profound privilege to welcome our distinguished guests on behalf of the residents of Gwadar city and myself.

It is indeed an honour for this city to host international delegates from across the world who are here to attend the meetings hosted by the Asian Parliamentary Assembly Standing Committee, under the auspices of the Senate of Pakistan. Given the role of APA as a forum which facilitates an elaborate and multi-faceted exchange of diverse and invaluable ideas and narratives, I am certain that this endeavour will be vital in arriving at potent strategies towards instilling peace and prosperity in the entire region.

My people and I are humbled by the opportunity given to us to open our hearts and homes for our guests for this mutually rewarding engagement.

SENATOR PAKISTAN Kahuda Babar FROM THE PRESIDENT’S DESK

GREETINGS! The magazine in your hand today is testament to the value that my policy institute, the Centre for Strategic and Contemporary Research, accords to Balochistan. Motivated by the gap that can restructure the soft narrative image of the province spread over more than 40 percent of Pakistan’s territory, this socio cultural magazine has been launched to celebrate and cherish the distinctive Balochistan province by producing quality nomenclature.

The discourse coming out of Pakistan since the past 15 years has alienated the international community. Pakistan had been represented as a place beset by terrorism, militancy and religious zealousness. This narrative has been a skewed one, seeking to amplify internal problems out of proportion. During this time, a conflagration was started in the restive fringes of Balochistan fuelled by the external vested interests. State utilities were sabotaged, the executive arm of the government and the security forces were critically targeted, while people of different ethnic and religious identities were killed. Peace has been restored now due to the immense valour and sacrifices of the security and administrative forces, but these experiences have tarnished the lofty image of Pakistan.

The absence of narrative from Balochistan in the mainstream discourse gave birth to various misconceptions at the local and international levels. This issue was dealt with by giving space to Balochistan’s soft narrative through digital media platforms, which helped not only in demystifying myths about the province, but also in knowing the views of the people residing in the largest province of the country. In this regard, CSCR has contributed significantly and continues to do so, as it is our belief that a soft narrative works through the communication of cultural settings and values that can become an integrating factor within a national context.

Given the interaction that blossomed due to shared work settings with the people of Balochistan, the realisation of a people to people disconnect, particularly of the Baloch populace with other regions, came to our notice. Our notions were further validated by the institute’s research conducted in the universities of Balochistan. This realisation prompted us to do focused work within Balochistan, using culture as a tool in interprovincial student exchanges to foster cohesion between Balochistan and the rest of Pakistan. Special topic based literature was specifically curated and designed to bridge the knowledge based vacuum. And our efforts bore fruit.

This magazine is an extension of the earlier efforts. It is my hope that it enhances your awareness about a little known region, and creates room for you to relate with the social and cultural construct of Balochistan, as well as with the people of this brave land. Our experience of and in this region has been rewarding, and we now seek to share it with you.

God bless Balochistan. God bless Pakistan.

PRESIDENT CSCR Anas Abdullah FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK

DEAR READER This publication, the first of its kind dedicated exclusively to the province of Balochistan, is a labor of love. We bring it to you in service of the Baloch people, in acknowledgement of their unrelenting perseverance and strength, and as a testament to the beauty and potential of a richly endowed region.

Balochistan, despite its centrality to the country’s economic progress, as well as to regional peace and development, remains a relatively unknown entity to the rest of the country. Even with its diverse populace, varied topography, and rich history, very little is known about Baloch society and culture, its tangible and intangible heritage, its contemporary heroes, and its potential for socio economic progress. As a region poised to become a mega hub of regional development, we believe Balochistan needs to be brought into the limelight as a critical component of Pakistan’s diplomacy. This is fast becoming an essential requirement, not only in view of the need to build a narrative for international consumption, but also to raise awareness within the rest of Pakistan for all that Balochistan has to offer. The name ‘Colours of Balochistan’ has been chosen to highlight all these factors. Every two months, we plan to bring you a fresh issue which incorporates a myriad of themes, each piece carefully selected to highlight a specific aspect, be it the multi-cultural diversity, breathtaking geographical features, economic opportunities and ongoing infrastructural development, the potential for tourism, or the work being done by various entities and individuals for the socio-economic uplift of the Baloch people. We will discuss Baloch literature and poetry, travel and cuisine, the arts, history, architectural heritage and preservation, conservation and the environment, sports, and economic potential and investment.

In our first issue, we undertake a journey along the scenic coastal highway setting off from , and pay a visit to an ancient hindu temple and pilgrimage site known as ‘Nani Mandir’, nestled deep in the recesses of the . We analyze the water needs of the port city of Gwadar, and how the recently opened desalination plant will impact the lives of local residents. In the arts, we look at the history and meaning signified by traditional Baloch dances, while also delving into the contemporary in a conversation with Baloch rapper Sami Amiri who has been making waves on the Pakistani music scene. Finally, we look at the history of one of the country’s oldest institutions and one of our greatest sources of pride, the Command and Staff College in .

It is our hope that this inaugural issue of ‘Colours of Balochistan’ inspires you to accompany us on a journey we believe is long overdue. And we look forward to traversing this path together.

VICE PRESIDENT CSCR Aiza Azam The Ancient & the Living Nani Mandir Baloch Traditional Dances and the Legend of Mata Courage & Defiance 8 Exploring Nani Mandir, Balochistan’s hidden gem!

Destination Balochistan From Karachi to Gwadar by Road Experiencing Balochistan’s raw beauty on a journey along 12 the Coastal Highway

Rising Region Gwadar Desalination Plant Command and Staff College Sustaining Life and Livelihoods A History of Excellence

Addressing Gwadar’s chronic water shortage through desalination 16 plants and offering hope for a sustainable tomorrow Identities Baloch Traditional Dances Courage & Defiance Discovering the roots of ‘Lewa’, ‘Chaap’ and ‘Attan’ in Baloch tradition and culture 20

The Creative Vein Sami Amiri of Turbat A Dream of Song The story of victory of a Baloch millennial’s passion for music in face of social and financial adversities 23

Pride of Our Past Gwadar Desalination Plant Command and Staff College Sustaining Life and Livelihoods A History of Excellence

Tale of one of the most coveted military training institutes with a reach as vast as its history 26 The Ancient and the Living NANI MANDIR AND THE LEGEND OF HINGLAJ MATA

COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN 10 October 2018 The return journey from any road trip, is also a ‘trip’ in itself, in the full emotional sense of the word. Like many travelers, I come back hoarding countless memories, experiences, and a renewed sense of self; most importantly, my camera cards filled with photographs act as a return ticket to moments that left me speechless.

On our way back from Gwadar, we witnessed one of the most beautiful and raw terrains along the ; with the bluest waters of on one side, and the gigantic naturally carved rock formations of the Hingol National Park on the other. The road curling through this magnificent landscape was a spectacle in itself. If one is accustomed to the lofty mountains of the north that are blanketed by clouds, or its undulating plains, this barren yet bold and intimidating NANI MANDIR topography of desert sand and glistening stone in Balochistan would present a jarring contrast, but it is in no way any less AND THE LEGEND OF HINGLAJ MATA exquisite and striking. Like many travelers, I come back hoarding countless memories, experiences, and a renewed sense of self; most importantly, my camera cards filled with photographs act as my return ticket to moments that left me speechless.

Pulling over to stretch our legs at a local tea stall – which is a rare find along this part of the highway – we climbed a lone mound opposite the Hingol National Park Entrance to explore some old graves. It is interesting to note that these graves had been built in the same architectural style, and carried the same carvings as the ones found in the Chawkandi & Makli Necropolis. For those interested, one can trace thousands of years of invaders’ history embedded in the region. I firmly believe in the mantra that in every journey one should leave room for the unexpected, and on this trip there was definitely more in store for us as we headed into the Hingol National Park to visit the legendary Hinglaj Mata, also known as Nani Mandir. Covering an area of 6,100 square km the Hingol National Park is Pakistan’s largest national park and showcases a diverse topography, ranging from drifting sands to sub- tropical forests. It also includes the estuary of the Hingol River which supports a large variety of wildlife. Zigzagging through a 20km patch inside the park, steep vertical facades of pale yellow and brown rocks surrounded us, with naturally sculpted stones rising from the sand beds against the crisp blue sky. A calm Hingol River flowing along us left us in awe of the view. In that moment, the photographer in me couldn’t help imagine having the process of these rock formations on a time lapse! As I gathered my thoughts, brightly coloured strips of cloth, tied against scattered bushes, announced that the Hinglaj sanctuary was approaching. These strips lined our path all the way to the Mandir. We spotted a few traditional Hindu shops outside the sanctuary that were offering a humble variety of trinkets and souvenirs. Inside the Mandir Nestled in a narrow gorge of the Kheerthar hills, a mountain Image by Amna Zuberi COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN October 2018 11 Mandir of Hinglaj Mata, also known as Nani Mandir Image by Amna Zuberi

cavern along the Hingol stream, is the Mandir of begged to be forgiven and requested the goddess Hinglaj Mata, a powerful Hindu deity who brings to name the place after him, which she granted. good to her devotees. Concealed by tall mountains, We were surprised to hear that Shah Abdul Latif the peace and stillness of this place is a pleasant Bhittai had also visited the Hinglaj Mata Mandir, departure from the chaos of one’s daily life. and called her Devi Nani out of respect. It was he Upon reaching the Mandir we were greeted by the who named this place Nani Mandir. As Gree Jee showed us around and divulged I firmly believe in the the details about the Mandir, we were fortunate mantra that in every journey enough to see a pair of Ibex approaching from the side of the mountain. As the ibex stood one should leave room for the and stared at us from just a few meters away, I unexpected. wondered if it was real or just a hallucination. I reached for my camera, and three others joined in as if waiting to be photographed from my lens! very welcoming Gopal Gree Jee, a Hindu priest, who is also the caretaker of the sanctuary. Narrating the temple’s history, he informed us that the Nestled in a narrow gorge of legend goes 3.2 million years back in time when the Kheerthar hills, a mountain this region was inhabited by the Hingoli people, led by King Vichitra Hingol. Legend holds that King cavern along the Hingol stream, Hingol tormented his people and kidnapped their is the Mandir of Hinglaj Mata, a women, and upon hearing the cries of the Hingoli powerful Hindu deity who brings people, Hinglaj Mata took King Hingol to the cave and executed him. Before his execution, the King good to her devotees.

COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN 12 October 2018 I had heard that Hingol National Park is rich in wildlife and forms an excellent habitat for wild Ibex, Baluchistan Urial Gazelle, crocodiles, and a variety of birds, but I had never imagined my luck as a photographer, which was surely shining that day. Each year in April, approximately 250,000 Hindus from all over the region arrive at Hingol for the 4 day Utam Yatra pilgrimage. During the days of the pilgrimage, Muslims are not allowed to enter the premises of the temple, however, one can experience the Hindu rituals through photographs. The local Muslim population residing in surrounding areas also regard Hinglaj Mata with consideration and they have taken the responsibility of providing security to the Mandir as well. Over the last couple of years, the sanctuary has gained immense attention and has become one the most frequently visited sites for the tourists, especially from Karachi which is a manageable day trip. The best time to visit the place is from November to March, as the desert heat is bearable and will allow you to explore in detail. As we drove back home, along the Hingol River, I gazed endlessly at the pointed stone peaks forming a razor-sharp silhouette against the spring sunset. I couldn’t be happier about how the day had turned out! What was to be merely a return trip to routine life ended with the discovery of another gem in Balochistan. Contrary

Each year in April, approximately 250,000 Hindus from all over the region reach Hingol for the 4 day Utam Yatra pilgrimage. to popular opinion that portrays the province’s backwardness, Balochistan is a treasure hiding in plain sight. I am already planning to go back again this winter and discover more!

Amna Zuberi is a freelance travel & street photographer, building visual narratives from across Pakistan through her eye. Her work has been published in a number publications, including books. Amna Zuberi Hingol River Image by Amna Zuberi

COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN October 2018 13 KARACHIDestination Balochistan TO GWADAR BY ROAD

Makran Coastal Highway Image by Johar Photography COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN 14 October 2018 Road trips have fascinated me since childhood. The thrill of discovering various tales and finding secrets to a location that locals know, can only be experienced on road trips. Living in Pakistan, I have travelled across the country without any fear or insecurity. With negative reviews dominating the news channels, foreign and local adventure travelers as well as bloggers have taken to social media to showcase the marvel that Pakistan is. The port city of Gwadar, located on the southwestern coast of Balochistan, boasts one of the largest deep sea ports in the world and is currently being developed under the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor. My two-day trip with family to the Baloch wonderland left me stunned, and has been one of the most memorable trips of my life so far. As we gulped down our crisp ‘parathas’ along with ‘karak chai’, the aroma of the warm, fresh breeze from Sonmiani beach further added to our delight.

Beginning our journey from Karachi at around 7 am, we could barely contain our excitement thinking about all that was to come. Navigating through the traffic of Hub, we headed towards Balochistan, a land still unknown to many. Our first stop was at Winder, where the South-North Highway breaks off westwards towards the Makran Coastal Highway. As we gulped down our crisp ‘parathas’ along with ‘karak chai’, the aroma of the warm, fresh breeze from Sonmiani beach further added to our delight. Visitors may shop for snacks and fuel-up their vehicles at this point as there are no stores or fuel stations for a considerable distance ahead. Passing through Hingol, , and all the way to Gwadar, the 653 km long Makran Coastal Highway was built during the Musharraf era to provide better connectivity along the coast. On first turning towards this strength of road, we felt a complete change in scenery as vast flat lands, with some cultivated green patches, replaced the cityscape. While we spotted camels sauntering on both sides of the road, our vehicle cruised smoothly through the deserted area. Later, we started noticing tall, sculpted mountains on one side of the road and the Arabian Sea on the other, ahead of us; however, it took us a while to actually reach that point. As the scenery along us transitioned in silence, our interest and excitement continuously increased at the thought of seeing the mud volcanoes. The scenery was both fascinating and delightful to gaze at. We had a local guide accompanying us who helped us understand the surrounding Sunset at Beach Image by Johar Photography COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN October 2018 15 geography much better. We were told that the mud volcanoes are rare and are only found in this part of the country. “These volcanoes have been active since decades but have never erupted,” he added. After an hour’s drive from the mud volcanoes we reached the calm and serene waters of “These volcanoes have been active for decades but have never erupted.”

Kund Malir beach. In recent years Kund Malir has become a favorite weekend destination for Karachiites who are often seen camping out here with families. The sand here is much cleaner compared to Karachi beaches and the water has a greenish-blue tinge to it if seen under the bright, sparkling sun. Luckily, we had the time to stay a while and got to see the dolphins playfully jumping in and out of the water. This experience was so refreshing for all of us, and without a doubt, made it to my top In recent years Kund Malir has become a favorite weekend destination for Karachiites who are often seen camping out here with families.

moments of the trip! As we resumed our journey from here towards the Buzi Pass (the highest point on the Coastal Highway), the gradient of the road started rising. Along the way we admired the interesting and grotesque rock formations which had come into being due to sea and wind erosion across the area. Our next stop was the famous and most frequently visited natural rock formation, the ‘Princess of Hope’, which according to locals was named by the Hollywood actress Angelia Luckily, we had the time to stay a while and got to see the dolphins playfully jumping in and out of the water.

Jolie when she visited the place. After spending some time there we descended towards the town of Ormara. Located almost halfway from Karachi, it presents a perfect stop-over for lunch. Ormara is widely known for the variety of fish and seafood available

COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN 16 October 2018 here. We made a stop at a local restaurant just off the highway and devoured ourselves in the mouthwatering taste of their fish! From Ormara we crossed , which is a hilly area; the same landscape continues till Gwadar. Due to the shortage of time, we could not stop here and were unable to visit the Bird Sanctuary Gwadar is an amalgamation of two Balochi words, ‘Gwat’ meaning wind, and ‘Dar’ meaning gateway; hence it is also called the ‘Gateway to Winds’.

that attracts thousands of birds from Serbia during winters. This is the perfect moment in time to visit Gwadar as you would get a chance to experience its development first-hand. There are plenty of attractions to explore in the port city itself, including the Hammerhead, Omani Fort, Fish Harbour, Boat Making Yard and the much talked about . Our guide introduced us to the city’s history and mentioned that Gwadar is an amalgamation of two Balochi words, ‘Gwat’ This is one trip that should be on every travel enthusiast’s bucket list, and I assure you, you will not be disappointed!

meaning wind, and ‘Dar’ meaning gateway; hence it is also called the ‘Gateway to Winds’. One of the major concerns of travelers in this region is security, but we found the entire length of the highway safeguarded by the Pakistan Coastguards’ check posts and watchtowers. Security officers can also be seen patrolling throughout the day and night, and the locals are always very helpful. This is one trip that should be on every travel enthusiast’s bucket list, and I assure you, you will not be disappointed!

A marketer by profession who loves to create magic through her words.

A View of Pasni at Night Image by Johar Photography Saadia Bakhtawar COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN October 2018 17 Fresh water availability in Pakistan has decreased by 800 per cent since the 1950s. Currently, 21 million people in Pakistan do not have access to clean drinking water, the poorest of them being the most vulnerable as the little water available to them is unfit for consumption. With a constant increase in population the demand for water is also steadily rising. Various regions in Pakistan, including Balochistan, are GWADAR already experiencing drought like conditions and the unavailability of water is adding to the local population’s difficulties. In the case of Balochistan, even an urbanised city like Quetta is facing water shortages. Similarly, Gwadar, despite being the at heart of CPEC, also lacks access to clean drinking water facilities. Many women and DESALINATION children walk daily, as far as eleven kilometres on average, to get a single bucket of water. Water pollution is another serious problem in the province where both surface and groundwater sources of drinking water are being contaminated with toxic metals, pesticides, and coliform, subsequently leading to numerous PLANT deaths. Approximately 6000 tube wells, placed in various parts of the province, are currently lifting groundwater but no long term storage option has been designed for them. Adopting unsustainable means of obtaining water has resulted in Balochistan becoming severely groundwater stressed; the sea-level has dropped by more than 2000 feet, while groundwater has no means of getting recharged because of limited rainfall and recurrent droughts. The poor quality and decreasing quantity of groundwater has also negatively impacted agricultural activity, which is the main occupation and source of income for the locals. Approximately 6000 tube wells, placed in various parts of the province, are currently lifting groundwater but no long term storage option has been designed for them.

Under the purview of the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor, a desalination plant was installed in Gwadar earlier this year by China Overseas Port Holding Company (COPHC). It is Pakistan’s first fully functioning desalination plant, providing 4000 households in Gwadar with 254,000 gallons of clean drinking water, and constitutes a first serious attempt towards addressing the city’s chronic water shortage. Water stressed countries across the globe are looking for sustainable means of obtaining water,

COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN 18 October 2018 GWADAR DESALINATION PLANT SUSTAINING LIFE AND LIVELIHOODS

Aerial View of Gwadar Image by CSCR COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN October 2018 19 and in over 150 countries, desalination plants are agricultural and industrial activity. In a region that providing millions of people with desalted water is continuously affected by droughts and where for daily use. This is the only source of water that is water pollution is a serious threat, desalted water not influenced by climate change and 60 per cent is the most dependable solution. Even though of the global desalted water is used for human the use of desalination plants is considered an consumption. In these countries, agricultural and expensive means of obtaining fresh water, it is reliable and can help ease water shortages if used It is Pakistan’s first fully efficiently. However, it is important for the Government to functioning desalination plant, practise caution and not use these plants as a providing 4000 households in backup measure only. To ensure sustainability, Gwadar with 254,000 gallons complementary projects like sewage treatment and modern irrigation technologies, among other of clean drinking water, and a considerations, also need equal attention so as first serious attempt towards to ensure every drop of freshwater is accounted for. Additionally, even though the mechanism addressing the city’s chronic is seen as drought proof, it is an electricity hog. water shortage. Luckily, Gwadar has a high potential for solar energy generation, and desalination plants that industrial processes that require clean water also are allowed to run on solar power can even earn make use of desalination plants to avoid any profits by producing cheap desalinated water. hindrances in their work. Borrowing from their Another desalination plant is being installed model, the people of Balochistan can use desalted in Killi Batto, with the assistance of the Swiss water for consumption as well as for boosting their and UAE governments under the ‘Khushaal

Mini Port Jetty Image by Flying JIB Studio COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN 20 October 2018 Even though the use of a final solution to water problems, and should desalination plants is considered definitely not be used as an infinite water source since its coming from the sea. Given Pakistan’s an expensive means of obtaining history of reckless use of water, desalination fresh water, it is reliable and can should not be used as an excuse to enhance help ease water shortages if used development, rather what the country needs the efficiently. Proper planning and monitoring mechanism of the Balochistan’ programme. The project is expected desalination plants is crucial to to be completed by the end of this year; it will have the capacity of producing 4.4 million gallons ensure the success of these plants of water daily, and is expected to further increase and positive social impact. in capacity to 8.8 million gallons. Proper planning and monitoring mechanism of most is a sense of responsibility and the change the desalination plants is crucial to ensure the in attitude towards saving and efficiently reusing success of these plants and positive social impact. water. Despite being a resource rich province, Balochistan has suffered at the hands of poor governance and political institutions. To reap the benefits of With an MPhil in Development this investment, serious attempts will have to be Studies, she is a researcher and made to keep the plant operational and in the policy analyst by profession. best working condition. Moreover, desalination should not be seen as Zahra Khan Durrani

COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN October 2018 21 Identities BALOCH TRADITIONAL DANCES COURAGE AND DEFIANCE

Celebrations around the world call for a little a beautiful example of diversity within the country. dance and music, and Balochistan is no different. If you’re out for a stroll in Quetta, you will get to Be it a wedding, birthday, or a graduation party, hear not just Balochi, but Pashto, Brahwui, Sindhi, any celebration without traditional dances is Siraiki, Punjabi, Hindko, and of course, ! In this considered incomplete. The ‘dhol walah’ (drum part of the country (which is 44% of Pakistan’s total player) is well-trained in all the rhythms from landmass) when it comes to celebration, modern- ‘Balochi Lewa’ or ‘Chaap’, to the ‘Pashtun Attan’. day movie scores stand no chance against the While these dances start off slow, they eventually rhythm of the local ‘dhol walah’. Almost half pick pace until the performers get knocked- the population of the province is Baloch, with a out and take a break to catch their breath. At strong presence of Pushtun, Brahwui, and Punjabi this point a strong cup of tea works like a magic ethnicities, and because of their inter-marriages potion: energizing the performers and their ‘dhol this diversity has only strengthened over the walah’ within five minutes, to bring them back to centuries. Growing up, their children listen to the the dance floor with the same zest and zeal. Their same music and develop similar interests, and as celebrations continue throughout the evening and these dances are such an integral part of every well into the night. household, the children start learning them from Balochistan, Pakistan’s largest province by area, is a very young age. One way to categorize the indigenous Baloch Celebrations around the dances is their entertainment factor. While the world call for a little dance and performers find ‘chaap’ more amusing, ‘lewa’ is considered a great entertainer by those only music, and Balochistan is no viewing the performance. ‘Lewa’ is also called different. the camel dance as it derives influence from the movements of a camel. Those performing ‘lewa’ COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN 22 October 2018 BALOCH TRADITIONAL DANCES COURAGE ‘Lewa’ is one of the most commonly performed dances in Balochistan. AND DEFIANCE Image by Voice of Balochistan

In this part of the country the ground. It is believed that the origins of ‘lewa’ (which is 44% of Pakistan’s total can be traced back to the deserts of Arabia and Africa, while in Balochistan, it is most common in landmass) when it comes to the southern regions. celebration, modern-day movie Along with the Pashtuns scores stand no chance against of Khyber Pakhtunkhuwa and the rhythm of the customary Afghanistan, the Balochistani ‘dhol walah.’ Pashtun also perform ‘attan’ as follow the rhythm of the ‘dhol’ and their hand part of their celebrations. and body movements imitate those of a camel; however, this dance requires great flexibility. It As mentioned earlier ‘chaap’ or ‘do-chaapi’ is a is usually performed in a circle where hand and dance form more entertaining for the performers body movements switch with the beat of the compared to the audience. Supported by the ‘dhol’. Conversely, professional ‘lewa’ performers ‘dhol’ beat in the background, a group of men prefer to stand in a straight formation facing forms a circle around the ‘dhol walah’ and begins the audience; while the singer, with his string- to clap together with synchronized head and instrument, sings the epic fables of Baloch from neck movements. ‘Chaap’ is generally considered the past, about their victories, gallant war heroes, to be slower compared to ‘lewa’ or the Pashtun and of their romances. The performance also dance of ‘attan’ but it is fun to perform because involves the troupe sitting down slowly (imitating the whole group faces each other, claps and sings the camel again) and then continue dancing to a together which reinforces their sense of unity and faster rhythm with their bodies almost touching brotherhood. COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN October 2018 23 Every time the ‘dhol’ starts dance interesting (and complicated) is when the performers, while clapping, take a 360 degree turn beating, Gloria Estefan’s words and sit on the floor, and repeat the step. echo in my thoughts: “The It is rumored that the famous ‘Sufi Whirling’ (the rhythm is gonna get you”. dance of the whirling dervish) also drew influence from ‘attan’ in Afghanistan. Whether this is true or not, this dance form is purely entertaining for those Other Baloch dances also include ‘latti’ and performing, as well as those who are watching. ‘hambo’ but one of the more common traditional Except for in death, dance and music is customary dances in Balochistan would definitely be the in Balochi culture and tradition. Every time the Pashtun ‘attan’. Pashtuns comprise a large ‘dhol’ starts playing, Gloria Estefan’s words echo portion of population in Balochistan, and along in my thoughts: “the rhythm is gonna get you”. with the Pashtuns of Khyber Pakhtunkhuwa Starting slow, it picks pace and one cannot help and Afghanistan, the Balochistani Pashtun also but feel lost in the beauty of the rhythm. perform ‘attan’ as part of their celebrations. Like the Pashtu language there are minor variations in the dance as well, as we move from one village to another. The ‘attan’ in Balochistan is a little softer than the one performed in tribal areas. It’s An LL.M Graduate from University of a quick four-step dance: using both hands, the Kent, interested in International Law and International Relations, and a performers start snapping from their left, moving native of Balochistan. through the center, then to the right and ending with a clap at the center again. What makes this Faraz Khan Yousafzai

Locals performing ‘Chaap’ at a family ceremony. Image by Faraz Khan Yousafzai COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN 24 October 2018 Umeed-e-Karawan Image by Sami Amiri Studios

SAMI AMIRI OF TURBAT A DREAM OF SONG

COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN October 2018 25 In recent years, many unique Pakistani songs have hit the charts, bringing the much needed diversity to our local music scene and to the existing eventually I did save enough to buy a computer pop, classical Sufi, and rock genres. Pakistan and a mic for myself,” he declared beaming with has been oozing out talented musicians since excitement. Sami tried his luck with singing but decades. Our latest discovery, Sami Amiri from soon realized he lacked the skills, and that is Turbat in Balochistan, is a young song-writer who has garnered a following for his rapping skills. “But people don’t want to “Despite an increase in musical platforms in the country, even the most brilliant musicians from learn life lessons through music, Balochistan still struggle to make their debut they just listen to it for the to the world,” said Amiri. At 20 years of age and beat.” brimming with hope, he represents the talented Baloch youth who are willing to do what it takes to make their mark on the world. when he discovered his talent for rap. At the tender age of 10, Sami and his family After years of struggle, Sami’s first big break came when he was contacted by Patari – a Pakistani Being only 20 years of music streaming service – for their ‘Somewhat age, Sami is a prime example of Super’ series, and since then he has gone from success to success. He also went on to perform Baloch youth, who are talented, at the glamorous PSL final in Karachi, alongside brimming with hope, and willing Atif Aslam in March 2018. Sami’s passion for music to do what it takes to make their and his desire to bring positive social change are evident from his conversation. “Pop and rap mark on the world. are very different forms of music, and to me rap isn’t just music – you can change mindsets with moved from Turbat to Karachi in search of better rap.” He feels that his music should send out a opportunities. Despite shifting to a thriving message to his listeners which they can relate metropolitan city, his family’s views on music to. “But the problem is that people don’t want to remained consistent. “My family has never been learn life lessons through music, they just listen supportive of my career in music, as they believed to it for the beat.” Talking about the difficulties he it was a profession for those from an inferior faces while tweaking the message in his music for caste,” he explained. Despite the discouragement his audience, he shared, “Most of my songs are a from those closest to him, Sami did not bury reflection of my own life, and I share my struggle his dreams under the burden of his family’s and success through music to inspire my peers expectations. While he continued with school to break free from their societal constraints like I during the day, he spent his nights learning did.” Giving an example of his song ‘Marchi Boro’ about music from YouTube tutorials. “I have been Sami talked about what a family goes through passionate about music since a very young age, but since I had little moral and financial support, the task of pursuing a career in the field has “Throughout life we will been daunting,” he reminisced. “I worked as a face problems, the key is to not plumber, sold vegetables at a stall, volunteered for 12th Rabi-ul-Awwal activities, all with the hide from them.” sole intention of raising some extra money. And when their landlord bangs on their door seeking the month’s rent. “I worked as a plumber, sold Recalling an incident from his past, Sami highlighted vegetables at a stall, volunteered how difficult it is for a young, struggling artist to for 12th Rabi-ul-Awwal activities, make ends meet. “I heard of an opportunity to perform in Lahore, and since I couldn’t make all with the sole intention of prior arrangements, I had to sell my smartphone raising some extra money, and to purchase a ticket to Lahore,” he said, “But I eventually I saved enough to knew I couldn’t miss the opportunity, so I took off.” Performing in front of that buoyant crowd in buy a computer and a mic for Lahore has been one his fondest memories. myself.” “Throughout life we will face problems, the key

COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN 26 October 2018 “Music changed me in ways I cannot explain, and if it weren’t for music, I might have even given up on life!”

is to not hide from them,” he said. From constantly struggling to provide for his family, and having to lose close ones along the way, Sami has had a rough life compared to other children of his age in Karachi. “Everyone leaves, and in the end you’re left with yourself and a God you yearn to believe in,” he pondered. One of Sami’s greatest regrets remains not pursuing his studies alongside his music, as he dropped out of school after Matriculation exams. He advocates that no one should give up on their dreams, and must always continue despite the hurdles. “Music changed me in ways I cannot explain, and if it weren’t for music, I might have even given up on life!” When asked about his inspiration, Sami confided to us that he has been listening to Tupac Shakur since his younger days. He feels that his style matches that of the famed African-American rapper and he aspires to be as great as him one day. Talking about the future of his genre in Pakistan, Sami felt that it will take some time for Pakistani rappers to carve out their niche, and musicians like him will have to continue to work harder to produce better music. He expressed his strong desire to continue his music career, while also hoping for a future where financial and familial constraints won’t hold him back. He shared that he is currently working on a remix of the song ‘Hum Hain Pakistan’, having added a touch of hip-hop to this version, and is anxiously waiting for its release.

Currently a third- year student at Habib University studying Social Development and Policy.

Hustle Image by Sami Amiri Studios Rameen Shakil

COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN October 2018 27 Pride of Our Past COMMAND AND STAFF C OLLEGE A HIST ORY OF EXCEL LENCE

It was the turn of the century, and a giant was Before its transfer to Quetta in 1907, the years born. Across the lands, tales were told of a mighty at Deolali helped lay down a firm foundation entity, filled with wisdom and knowledge, resting for the traditional, academic and professional amidst imposing mountains, right underneath a wonder of nature, the Sleeping Beauty. They said no one who went there came back the same. The path was difficult and the climb steep, but it came The path was difficult and to be one of the most coveted places on earth. the climb steep, but it came to be This was Quetta Command and Staff College. one of the most coveted places on Established under the British Raj in 1905 in Deolali near Bombay, the institution had the motto “Tam earth. Marte Quam Minerva” (By the Pen, as much by the sword). The establishment was set up after a aspects of the College. Today, after over a century gestation period of 30 years when the idea was of establishment of the institution, traditions first floated in 1875. The aim of the institution set in its early years are still observed, while was to provide training to the middle tier of the new ones continue to be added. One of these is leadership hierarchy. COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN 28 October 2018 COMMAND AND STAFF C OLLEGE A HIST ORY OF EXCEL LENCE Custodians of Life Image by CSC Quetta

“Tam Marte Quam College Library on Partition’s eve in 1947 to protect Minerva” (By the Pen, as much the books from being removed. In another historic moment at the College, Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad by the sword). Ali Jinnah visited the institute in 1948, a few months before his demise. During his address, he named the officers “the custodians of the life, property the Pantomime, an activity marking the end of and honour of the people of Pakistan.” curriculum year where officers shed their stoic personas and take the stage. In its initial years, the College saw many remarkable British military officers as its commandment and During the Quaid’s address, faculty members, most notably Brigadier General A.W.L. Bayly, Brigadier General T. Capper and Major he named the officers “the General H. L. Davies. But as time progressed, more custodians of the life, property Muslim officers joined the ranks. Of these was and honour of the people of General Yahya Khan, a prominent member, who, as legend has it, guarded the doors of the Staff Pakistan.” COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN October 2018 29 In the time that followed, the Quaid’s visit to the Today, in 2018, with over a century since the College was followed by many other prominent establishment of the institution, it continues to visits. The institution hosted His Imperial Majesty transform and enrich the lives of those who learn Raza Shah Pehalvi of Iran, King Faisal II of Iraq, Chief and serve within it. A year at the college is not of Imperial General Staff Field Marshal Sir William only an opportunity to rise higher in the Army, but Slim, and Queen Elizabeth II accompanied by is an inclusion to a brotherhood that sustains Prince Phillip. The College has also hosted officers long after the course has ended. Long nights spent from many allied countries, including those from burning the midnight oil together and running the UK, Canada, Australia, the US, France, Turkey, through the hurdles of ’Sandstorm‘ and ’Ravi Iran and Iraq. The onset of 1956 proved to be the precipice of change, when Pakistan becoming an Islamic The wives, much to their Republic set the tone for the evolution of the motto and emblem of the College. The crown in chagrin, find out that their the original emblem was removed and the Owl husbands are theirs only in name. was replaced by a much more potent epithet For most part of their conscious “Iqra” (“Read”), a symbol for the first command of the Almighty to the Holy Prophet (pbuh). The and unconscious hours they are motto was changed to “Biamooz Pir Sho, Saadi” easily lot to strange sounding (“Grow Old Learning, Saadi”), and to learning was added the objective of applying learning acquired terms like TDs, MDs, IEs and through the changing times. Doc.

COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN 30 October 2018 With the icy Khojak wind magazine and a cook book. The magazine, since its inception in 1983, the magazine has blossomed blasting in all directions, the into a fine forum for expression of thoughts and institute could not have been ideas of the College ladies. placed in a more befitting With Takatu, Murdarghar and Chiltan towering over the College and with the icy Khojak wind embracing environment, one that sends the it from all directions, the institute could not have message of resilience in the face been placed in a more befitting environment, one that sends the message of resilience in the face of adversity. of adversity, of being at home in the most difficult of circumstances, of confidence and strength, and Blitz‘ (operational war games) forge a strong bond of strategic competence; characteristics that are between the officers. ingrained in each officer that has the honour of The College, however, is not merely an institution; being enrolled here. it is also a community of all the families that come in with the officers. The wives, with their husbands’ unyielding schedules, find sanctuary in Al Nisa An anthropology enthusiast with a Club, a community for on the College grounds. Over special interest in socio-political history, Bisma is currently the the years, Al Nisa has progressed beyond simply managing partner at design firm being a reprieve from the dullness of an inactive dsgnd.xyz. schedule to a functional society hosting charity events and soirees, also publishing an annual Bisma Shahzad

Command College Delegation Image by PSX COLOURS OF BALOCHISTAN October 2018 31