Birding A Week at the Spectacular Pico Bonito Lodge November 11–18, 2017 Leaders: Rob Gibbs & Local Guides

The large Pico Bonito National Park, over a quarter million acres in size, lies about midway along the northern coast of Honduras, protecting pristine forests in a transect from low foothills near the coast to high mountain peaks. Refuges along the coast are just a few miles away. At the park’s edge lies The Lodge at Pico Bonito, a wonderfully comfortable lodge that has become one of the latest hot destinations for nature enthusiasts. National Geographic Traveler magazine listed this lodge among its top 50 eco-lodges of the world. The Audubon Naturalist Society is pleased to offer our 2nd trip to this lodge giving our members chances to see a great variety of and other tropical wildlife while enjoying the comforts and excellent food of this highly regarded destination.

Some comments from our 2015 Pico Bonito travelers:

"The local guides exceeded all expectations. The lodge, food and service were outstanding."

"It was lovely staying in one place and not moving every few days. Another wonderful aspect was the variety of outings, boat trips, train trips, snorkelling."

You’ll arrive at the spacious reception area and then follow gravel paths to your cabin, each tucked into the luxuriant tropical forest. Every cabin is made of beautiful tropical hardwood and features comfortable furnishings, large louvered and screened windows, with cooling options of air conditioning or efficient ceiling fans.

The lodge has an excellent restaurant adjacent to the reception area, and all breakfasts and dinners will be served here, with lunches some days here and on other days at locations nearer to the field trip destinations. All meals from dinner on Nov. 11 through breakfast on Nov. 18 are included. Choose from an extensive set of choices on the menu, with extra special dishes (such as a lobster dinner) available for a small surcharge. Beautiful gardens and a pleasant swimming pool surround the main lodge buildings, with well-maintained trails leading out into the forests of the National Park.

You’ll have time to explore the grounds and trails of The Lodge with your leader, on your own, or some of each. There are hummingbird feeders and fruiting trees right next to the restaurant and reception area where many birds can be seen every day. There’s a lot of other wildlife here, and you’re sure to enjoy the lizards, mammals, , and butterflies you’ll be seeing each day. We feel that The Lodge at Pico Bonito provides one of the nicest, most comfortable bases we’ve seen for exploring and learning about birds and other elements of Latin American natural history.

The following day-to-day itinerary represents an outline of our plans. Details may be changed at the leaders’ discretion for any reason that, in the leaders’ judgment, will increase the safety and enjoyment of the majority of the participants.

Saturday, Nov. 11 After an midday arrival into San Pedro Sula International Airport, you’ll meet your local guide and head east along Honduras’ North Coast towards The Lodge at Pico Bonito, the highly acclaimed birding/rain forest resort within 270,000 acre Pico Bonito National Park. The drive takes about 2½ hours and leads through a fascinating mix of forests, farms, and small towns. We will stop for restrooms and a snack along the way, and a late afternoon arrival at The Lodge will afford everyone time to unpack, refresh, and enjoy some light birding of the grounds before dinner. (You’ll choose your meals throughout the week from a surprisingly extensive and varied menu.)

Sunday, Nov. 12 Our first morning at The Lodge at Pico Bonito will begin at 6:00 AM, with an early breakfast and then an orientation on the spacious, front deck of the Lodge’s Itzama Restaurant. For the next several hours our guide will lead us through The Lodge grounds, spotting numerous that are common in the early hours. A climb to the top of the “Toucan Tower” observation platform offers a bird’s eye view of the forest canopy that often includes heart-stopping views of the coveted Lovely .

Throughout the morning we will enjoy a leisurely stroll through tropical forests and plantation areas along the Rio Coloradito. This area is home to a great diversity of birds, and species we might find include Lovely Cotinga, Masked Tityra, Blue-crowned Motmot, Keel-billed Toucan, Collared Aracari, Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Black-cowled Oriole, Black-headed , Red- Legged Honeycreeper, and up to a dozen species of Hummingbirds, including Crowned Woodnymph, Blue-throated Sapphire, Violet Sabrewing, Purple-crowned Fairy, Stripe-tailed Hummingbird, Brown Violet-ear, Green Violet-ear and White-necked Jacobin.

After lunch and a light siesta, we’ll head further along on The Lodge’s loop trail system in search of forest interior birds. In addition to the Toucan Tower at the trail’s beginning, this route offers an elevated ridge platform, which overlooks the Rio Coloradito and surrounding forested slopes. Well also visit observation Tower #3 along the way, set amidst an area of bird-rich secondary forest and overgrown plantation. White-collared and Red-capped Manakin occur at various locations here, and the Gray-headed Piprites may (rarely) be seen as well. Both Keel-billed and Tody Motmot are frequently encountered along this route. Other species we have the chance to find here include the Great Curassow, Crested Guan, Slaty-breasted Tinamou, Scaly-throated Leaftosser, Yellow-eared Toucanet, a host of flycatchers, including the impressive Royal Flycatcher, and many of the trogon, woodpecker, woodcreeper, tanager and oriole species on The Lodge’s bird list, which has over 420 species. In addition to superb viewing from The Lodge’s towers, this route passes several overlooks along the Rio Coloradito. Sightings of many raptors can often be made here. Great and Northern are also possibilities; we’ll search for these supremely camouflaged birds up in the trees that line the trails.

Monday, Nov. 13 Cuero y Salado Wildlife Refuge is named for the Cuero and Salado Rivers, which meet the ocean here. The Refuge comprises over 35,000 acres of rivers, lagoons, mangroves, and forests that are home to diverse wildlife and a variety of birds exceeding 350 species. We’ll meet our guide early for breakfast, and depart for the refuge by 6:30am. Access into this wilderness is via a small motorized train, which takes us along a century old track through bird-rich ranchlands, marshlands, and small plantations, ultimately arriving at the mouth of the Salado River and the Refuge itself. Birding from the train is always fun and exciting, as the conductor is eager to stop and point out species of interest along the way. Depending on season, a variety of raptors, wading birds and edge-habitat species abound along the railway.

Once at the Refuge, we will explore the various aquatic and forest habitats from a small, motorized skiff. Our guides and boat handlers are superbly trained spotters and when needed, prefer to silence our boat’s motor and quietly paddle in for a better look. Agami Heron, Boat- billed Heron, Bare-throated Tiger Heron, Yellow-crowned Night-Heron, Tricolored Heron, American Pygmy-Kingfisher, Boat-billed Heron, Laughing Falcon, Bat Falcon, Lesser Yellow- headed Vulture, Gray-necked Wood Rail, and Sungrebe are but a few potential highlights of a visit to Cuero y Salado. Other tropical wildlife species commonly seen here include Black Howler Monkeys, White-faced Monkeys, Lesser Anteater, Central American Coati, Raccoon, Green Iguana, American Crocodile, and Spectacled Caiman.

We’ll return for unch at The Lodge, and an afternoon to relax, visit the Lodge’s butterfly farm, or bird from the Lodge’s decks, gardens, or trails. After dinner, we’ll be guided around the Lodge’s gardens and plantation areas where Mottled Owl, Vermiculated Screech Owl, Black and White Owl, and both Great and Northern Pootoo may be found. A stop by The Lodge’s ponds nearly always delights with the sounds and sights of a breeding Red-eyed Treefrogs. A lighted white board at the edge of the forest attracts an amazing variety of , , and other each night.

Tuesday, Nov. 14 Rio Santiago Nature Resort is a 150 acre, private preserve located 30 kilometers west of The Lodge at Pico Bonito. Its secluded, rain forest location and impressive numbers of hummingbird feeders has earned it the name of, “Hummingbird capital of Honduras”. Throughout most of the year, Santiago’s trails and main garden areas abound with bewildering numbers of some of Honduras’ most well-known hummingbird species. Rufous- tailed Hummingbird, Cinnamon Hummingbird, Brown Violet-ear, Band-tailed Barbthroat, Violet Sabrewing, Crowned Woodnymph, Stripe-throated Hermit, Long-billed Hermit, Stripe-tailed Hummingbird, White-bellied Emerald, and Scaly-breasted Hummingbird are but a few of the species that frequent Santiago’s feeders. Black-crested Coquette is also often seen on Santiago’s main trail.

We’ll have lunch at Rio Santiago Nature Resort and spend part of the afternoon here. Keel- billed Motmot and Rufous-tailed Jacamar are frequently seen along Santiago’s trail system. Many other birds may be found here, with possibilities including Red-capped Manakin, White- collared Manakin, Amazon Kingfisher, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Golden-hooded Tanager, and an assortment of migrants from . We return to Pico Bonito in time for an early dinner and an early bedtime, in to be ready for a very early start on Wednesday.

Wednesday, Nov. 15 We’ll begin this full day of birding Honduras’ unique dry forest habitat with an early breakfast at The Lodge, and departure by 4:30 am. The target of our search, the beautiful but critically endangered Honduran Emerald, is a hummingbird that survives only in remaining pockets of tropical dry forest to the south of Pico Bonito National Park. Descending the “rain shadow”, or southern side of the Park, cloud forested peaks and pine studded slopes give way to an arid, almost desert-like plain, once dominated by tropical thorn or dry forest. Although endangered, the Honduran Emerald is considered common within its habitat. As such, regardless of season, our chances of seeing the Honduran Emerald are very good.

Our ride into “Emerald country” can be equally exciting, as a surprising number of bird species inhabit dry forest. Along the way, we’ll also visit localized wet areas within this arid region. These sites can be magnets for wading birds and other species. We’ll hope to find many birds that aren’t expected around Pico Bonito, with possibilities including Double-striped Thick-knee, Lesser , Lesser Ground , Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet, White-lored Gnatcatcher, White-throated Magpie-jay, Banded Wren, White-bellied Wren, and Stripe-headed Sparrow, and Salvin’s Emerald, among others. We’ll enjoy lunch in the nearby ranching town of Olanchito, and return to The Lodge by late afternoon.

Thursday, Nov. 16 We’ll meet our guide for another early breakfast, and travel west to the Lancetilla Botanical Gardens. Set amidst a coastal valley flanked by low, rain-forested hills, The United Fruit Company founded Lancetilla as a station where tropical fruit and wood trees were studied for commercial value. The Gardens were founded in 1925, and some of that work continues. However this diverse tropical treasure, composed of a mosaic of forest and edge habitats, is today best known for its superb birding. Honduras’ annual Christmas Bird Count is held at Lancetilla, and every December, bird watchers flock to confirm, and add to, the Garden’s growing list of colorful, tropical species. The current bird list reads like a Who’s Who of tropical birds, and includes motmots, manakins, woodcreepers, warblers, woodpeckers, toucans, tanagers, and scores of others. Migrant warblers, vireos, flycatchers, and grosbeaks from the north are also frequent at Lancetilla.

Thanks to this diversity, a typical day of birding here could yield many of these species: Little Tinamou, Common Black Hawk, White-tailed Kite, Ruddy Crake, White-fronted Parrot, Olive-throated Parakeet, Squirrel Cuckoo, Gartered Trogon, Turquoise-browed Motmot, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Great Antshrike, Barred Antshrike, Tawny-winged Woodcreeper, Long- billed Gnatwren, and others. After our morning at Lancetilla we head to the beach-side town of Tela for lunch, and here we have a good chance to see Royal Tern, Sandwich Tern, Neotropic Cormorant, and shorebirds on a stroll along the edge of the Caribbean Sea. We return to The Lodge by late afternoon.

Friday, Nov. 17 We depart right after breakfast for the true tropical island paradise known as “The Cayos Cochinos”. This small, Caribbean archipelago is a group of 15 remote islands located about 9 miles north of the Honduran mainland and due south of the island of Roatan. The entire system of pristine islands and surrounding coral reef is designated as a biological reserve. From The Lodge, we travel to the Garifuna village of Sambo Creek to board our boat and enjoy the 1 hour ride to the islands. Often, the boat ride itself is an adventure as you may see dolphins, sea turtles or even whales along the way, along with gulls, terns, and other water birds.

We’ll explore and snorkel over a stunning variety of beautiful reef structures, where marine life is abundant and all sorts of reef fish, invertebrates, and often sea turtles can be seen. In- between snorkeling stops, we’ll also pause for a short hike on one of the larger keys, in hopes of getting a glimpse of the islands’ remarkable pink boa constrictor and a variety of birds. Our island adventure will finish off with a delicious, traditional Garifuna lunch on the white sand beach of one of the inhabited keys named “Cayo Chachahuate”, before heading back to the mainland, and the Lodge. Those who don’t wish to swim or snorkel will still find this to be an enjoyable day, as you’ll see wonderful wildlife above the water and beautiful scenery.

Saturday, Nov. 18 Our journey concludes with transfer back to the airport at San Pedro Sula in time for afternoon flights back to the US.

Leadership

Rob Gibbs

Rob Gibbs has worked as Wildlife Ecologist for the Montgomery County Department of Parks and Planning for the past 13 years. Prior to his current position, he worked as a naturalist for 15 years for Montgomery County Parks and other organizations. Rob has been leading natural history classes and field trips for over 25 years for Montgomery Parks, the Audubon Naturalist Society, the Smithsonian Institution, the National Park Service, the National Wildlife Federation and other organizations. His lifelong passion is learning and teaching others about the natural world. Recent ANS trips led by Rob include Yellowstone, Alaska, and .