INSIDE: Barilla’s New Culinary Venture 3 Gelato Guide 6 ’s Best Beaches 7 Stay in Milan’s Modern Shopping District 8 Art Among the Vines ou don’t expect to see a master- piece of contemporary art amid dream of Y rows of choice vines in Italy’s Piemonte region. That’s exactly what you’ll find, though, atop a hill just outside the town of La Morra — a tiny chapel, called the Capella di Sol LeWitt — David Tremlett, whose colorful abstract exterior might seem more at home in New York’s Museum of Modern Art. ITALYVolume 3, Issue 7 www.dreamofitaly.com July/August 2004 But to the workers who earn their liv- ing in the surrounding vineyards of the Langhe district, the area famous for Italy Meets the Nebbiolo grape found in Barolo, Barbaresco, Dolcetto and Barbera wines, this paradoxical structure is a tribute in a Corner of to the long winemaking tradition of this land. hough January was merely ahead. There was a sign, alright, but I days behind us almond trees wasn’t able to read it — it was written Credit brothers Bruno and Marcello were already in blossom. The in Greek. It announced our arrival in Ceretto — two of Italy’s most promi- T wind was still chilly but the Gallicianò. nent wine producers — and two con- sun felt warm enough to melt ricotta as temporary artists, one American and Giovanni and I drove through the We followed a mercilessly weaving one British, for envisioning the unlike- winding roads up from the road through rocky hills that ly symmetry between modern art and Ionian coast on a beautiful day became mountains overlooking the Langhe heritage of winemaking. in Calabria, at the toe of Italy’s a wide wash full of scattered boot. stones. We passed a variety of trees: When the Cerettos purchased the sur- oaks, eucalyptus, olive, mimosa, and rounding vineyard in 1976, the chapel, I was teaching English to more almond trees exploding though not old by Italian standards, Giovanni, a thirty-year-old pub with white blossoms. Oranges was dangerously close to ruin. Santa owner in , and he and lemons glowed brightly in Maria della Grazie, as it was known was teaching me about life in southern the sun. then, had been constructed in 1914 as Italy. During a lesson he told me about a small church as well as a shelter for an amazing cultural anomaly just And when we arrived in a small vil- workers from the thunderstorms that south of town. “I can take you there,” lage tucked into the slope, we smelled occasionally pummel the hills and he offered. In fact, it was new territory bergamot — the lemon-like fruit unique valleys of the Langhe. Never conse- even for Giovanni, and so he had to to Calabria that gives Earl Grey Tea its crated and rarely visited, the neglect- stop for directions. An old woman in a essence. Whispering breezes carried ed chapel deteriorated from decades black sweater and heavy wool skirt the clanging of tin bells and bleats of of exposure to the alternating hot told Giovanni to look for a sign up continued on page 4 continued on page 2 Mountains cover 40% of Calabria. Modern Art Among the Vines continued from page 1

summers and cold winters of the area. Tremlett to restore and dec- melds into yellow and Its crumbling façade became a poten- orate the decaying chapel. then into orange, and you tial danger to the workers passing by sense the changing sea- on their way to the adjacent vineyards. Tremlett immediately enlist- sons and life-giving sun. Its demolition seemed imminent. ed his friend, American At the far end of the artist Sol LeWitt, to assist chapel, a triangle of pale The decision to save the chapel was with the project. LeWitt The Barolo Chapel, before (above) blue represents, perhaps, made, appropriately enough, over a shared both Tremlett’s pas- and after (below). the nourishing rain. And glass of wine. In 1997, David Tremlett, sion for wine and his vision for a overhead, the most fervent reds an internationally acclaimed British contemporary interpretation of symbolize the pinnacle of the artist who happened to have a passion the winemaking tradition. harvest — the deep-colored for excellent wines, was visiting with Barolo wine produced from the the Cerettos after having participated “The two artists were conquered surrounding vineyards. in an exhibition of contem- by the simplicity and porary art at nearby respect of the tradi- Perhaps as proof that for some Castello di Barolo. When tion of my family people appreciation of contem- Bruno Ceretto asked and the people that live on porary art is an acquired taste, the Tremlett what he should those hills,” Roberta chapel’s makeover wasn’t without its do with the chapel, the Ceretto explains. She is the critics when it was completed in 1999. artist proposed transform- Il Cubo daughter of Bruno and, According to Roberta Ceretto, some of ing it into a symbol celebrating the along with her brother and cousins, is the locals considered it a bit too extrav- vineyards, wines and people of the now actively involved in running the agant at first. But now, she assures, it Langhe. family’s wineries. “The philosophy at has become accepted as a symbol for 2 the base of the project with Sol and the Langhe. Like the wines it cele- The Cerettos aren’t strangers to the David was to create a place, unique brates, the Capella di Sol LeWitt — harmony between modern art and tra- and joyful as the chapel is, to share David Tremlett is bold and one of a ditional culture. The architectural focal with the whole community, and we kind. point of their winery Bricco Rocche is a think that we reached this goal.” large glass and steel sculpture, called Il And if you doubt the artists’ passion Cubo. The family readily commissioned The exterior, designed and decorated behind their creation, consider this: For by LeWitt, strikes you with its vibrant their restoration of the chapel, they geometric forms — all painted in were paid with bottles of wine! rich blue, green, yellow, orange or The Details red and framed by the natural “Both LeWitt and Tremlett bricks of the chapel. Horizontal love wine, so we proposed to The Capella di Sol LeWitt — David scallops evoke the surrounding pay them simply in Barolo,” Tremlett, sometimes known simply as hills of vineyards. Bold rectan- Roberta says, “One bottle a the Barolo Chapel, is open daily. gles and vertical lines accentuate week for the rest of their lives The Ceretto wineries occasionally the chapel’s architecture. The vivid of Barolo Bricco Rocche Brunate. sponsor concerts and other special colors express celebration. It’s one of our best Barolos and events on the chapel’s grounds. the one that grows in the vine- Tremlett’s contribution, the interior, yard around the chapel.” ◆ Wine tastings and tours of the family’s captures the more spiritual nature of wineries are available by appointment the winemaking tradition. On one —Michael Slagle only, Monday through Friday, and large panel, tones of brown and green Michael Slagle is a freelance writer residing in Fort must be booked at least a week prior — the colors of the soil and vines — Wayne, Indiana. He travels frequently to Italy and to your visit. For more information, harmonize into one another. Opposite, considers Piemonte one of the country’s most “under- call (39) 0173 282582 or visit a muted red gains intensity on another discovered” and rewarding tourist destinations. www.ceretto.com panel and suggests the maturing grapes. On the adjacent walls, white “Good wine is a good familiar creatu Only the Best for ACADEMIA BARILLA ith its sleek, modern surprisingly, prosciut- Balsamico selling for design and state-of-the- to cutters made by a Upcoming Courses in English about 30€. At the W art technology, this cook- Dutch manufacturer. Futurist Cuisine: moment these ing school might be found anywhere in The kitchens were The Italian Futurist Movement delicacies are only the world. But the fact that it’s in designed with September 17, 2004 available at a store Parma, Italian and now European food ergonomic styling; near the school. capital, and that it’s backed by one of the flow of the Italian First Courses the most recognizable brand names in kitchens follows the September 13-14 or 21-22, 2004 Every corner of the Italy, makes all the difference. The flow of the meals. Italian Holiday Menus Barilla facility seems dream child of the brothers behind November 13-15 or 22 -24, 2004 to hold something Italy’s most famous pasta, Academia Safety is intriguing. A 30,000- Barilla, a cooking academy for profes- supreme at Academia volume gastronomic library will open sionals and enthusiasts Barilla. The knives and later this summer. Under the library, alike, opened in April. cutting boards are color-coded there will be a wine cellar. There’s a to keep vegetables and meats private restaurant for the students. The school is part of the separate. Knives are put in There’s even a wood oven for pizza Barilla Center, a modern special sterilization holders. making, a rarity for a cooking school. shopping and entertain- The school’s air system filters Academia Barilla combines the best of ment venue designed by Rienzo Piano, and circulates the air in such a way traditional culinary instruction with positioned just outside Parma’s beauti- that even if every stove were to leak 21st century innovation. ◆ ful historic center. No expense has gas, the facility would remain safe. been spared. The head chef was given 3 carte blanche in designing the 16 prac- There’s a 90-seat auditorium, room for dream of tice kitchens and handful of demon- 20 students in a lecture/demonstration stration kitchens. He was told to buy kitchen and generally 8 to12 in partici- only the best tools. He chose German pation classes. Classes are taught ITALY knives, made by Dick, American mainly in Italian, with about one-third Kathleen A. McCabe mixers by Kitchen Aid and most of them offered in English. The school Publisher and Editor-In-Chief is actually equipped to accommodate THE DETAILS speakers of any language with simulta- Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe Design: Leaird Designs neous translation services. While there www.leaird-designs.com ACADEMIA BARILLA are set dates and times for classes, Largo Piero Calamandrei, 3/A Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering Barilla is happy to set up private Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. Barilla Center sessions on request. Some of the Delivery by mail is $79 per year in the United States Parma and $95 abroad. An Internet subscription (download- offerings in English include: Italian able PDF) costs $69 per year. Subscriptions include (39) 0521 264060 Rice, The World of Chocolate, The Art online access to back issues and regular e-mail updates. www.academiabarilla.com of Italian Entertaining, Cooking with Three ways to subscribe: Wild Mushrooms, Tasting the Italian 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, Washington, DC, 20016 GRAND HOTEL DE LA VILLE Cheeses. 2. Call 1-877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-237-0657 Largo Piero Calamandrei, 11 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa and Mastercard accepted) (39) 0521 0304 In conjunction with the launch of the Editorial feedback is welcome. www.grandhoteldelaville.it school, Barilla has introduced a line of E-mail: [email protected] This brand new, 5-star hotel culinary staples under the Academia Advertising opportunities are available. offers 110 rooms just steps from Barilla label. There’s Parmigiano cheese E-mail: [email protected] Academia Barilla. If you attend and prosciutto. Five award-winning Copyright © 2004 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights the cooking school, ask about Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- olive oils include two from . mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide special rates at the hotel. Perhaps the most interesting and information that is accurate and reliable; however, expensive product is Academia Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com Barilla’s well-aged Condimento re, if it be well used.” —Shakespeare Italy Meets Greece in a Corner of Calabria continued from page 1

goats down from the An Italian from the north wouldn’t breaking labor of piling stones. The slopes. “Welcome to make heads or tails of it; to me it simple white or gray houses and their Magna Grecia,” Giovanni sounded more like Spanish in red-tiled roofs rest almost on top of said. some ways. Giovanni asked each other and either share a wall with him some questions, and the neighbors or are separated by a More than seven centuries although the man did- small garden with perhaps a goat or before the birth of Christ, n’t smile, he raised two staring out through a gate. had yet to himself up with some see the Romans. It was the pride and In the center of town is a simple who occupied the shores of exchanged a church, the placard out front written in Calabria and Eastern Sicily forming few more words Greek: ΟΑΟΣ ΠΑΝΑΓΙΑΣ ΤΗΣ Magna Grecia or Great Greece. The that remained a blur to me. Giovanni’s ΕΛΛΑ∆ΑΣ Dromo Patruna Ti Grecia, area was home to such renowned face brightened and he turned to me which translates as “The Street of La characters as poet Theocritus and for my reaction. “Greek!” he cried. Signora from Greece.” There are just mathematician and inventor 80 people living in the village and , and it remained part of Like curious children who come across surrounding area, down from 400 a the Greek Empire until the Romans a foreigner we rambled through a list few years ago, and not all of them annexed it in the third century B.C. of words. “How do you say ‘water’?” speak Greek. The elderly and middle- aged speak Greek at home, but the The Romans brought their own settle- “Nerò.” He replied in the local Greek. children are left only with scraps of it. ments but remained respectful of the Greeks allowing them to maintain their Then we asked him about the local Well into the last century, Gallicianò’s own language and culture. In fact, in youth: What do they do? What do they pastoral life and lack of good roads 4 Rome, Greek was treated as a second like? What do they know of Greek? kept the town and its language isolated language and the city maintained a He said nenti (“nothing” in Calabrese from outsiders. Now, a few satellite sizeable Greek minority into the ) and shook his head slowly the dishes make it clear that the modern Christian era. way an old man does who is too tired world has encroached on Gallicianò. to really get worked up about Local professor Franco Mosino has even something. The Romans brought Latin to the land, argued that it was in fact the Western and the Calabrian dialect of Italian Greeks who developed the Greek Picking through the Calabrian olives, eventually became the dominant local alphabet and wrote The Odyssey. (Many his thick fingers were stained tongue. Even today most geographical names in the area are purple. He had a white Calabrians, but especially the prominent figures in the tale: the mon- moustache and wore a wool elderly, are “bilingual” choos- ster Scylla is now the town of Scilla cap over his wiry white hair. ing Calabrese over pure overlooking the Strait of , and His skin was tanned, and the Italian at home. But Greek Aeolus, keeper of the winds, gave his wrinkles were large and has hung on through it all, name to the just North smoothed, as if even they too tucked into several remote of Sicily.) had worked hard somehow. towns; it even gained some strength when the Byzantine While this was interesting to me on an “There is no work here Empire took Calabria in the academic level, it couldn’t compare to for the young people.” He 6th century and brought the the old man we found sitting with his pointed to a flawlessly constructed Neo-Hellenic language of , a legs crossed alongside a whitewashed stone embankment that supported the more recent form of Greek. wall sorting a burlap sack full of tiny next level of houses. “I built that wall. olives in the sun. Giovanni greeted him Forty years ago.” In fact, the Byzantines brought the and the man answered back. I didn’t name Calabria itself. Tema tis Calavrias, understand a word of it. “Calabrian Gallicianò, in fact, isn’t much more was the western outpost of the empire, dialect,” Giovanni explained. than a few terraces cut into the hillside so there is academic disagreement to and supported by yesteryear’s back- the nature of the current language. In 1861, 90% of Calabria’s towns l There are words that allegedly go all guess. Part of the law calls for some done about that? I asked. the way back to the beginning of kind of census. Do you know that the Magna Grecia, but the critical issue total number of speakers in all these Apodiafazzi is working with the today is a possible ending. communities is estimated to be about University of Messina, just across the the same as the number living here in narrow strait of the same name in near- “There used to be three teachers here, Reggio? Many moved to the larger city by Sicily, to offer a master’s degree elementary teachers. There used to be a for work years ago, so Reggio has the course, he told me. Graduates will be doctor. Now there’s largest Greek-speaking eligible to teach, the money for their nothing. The young peo- population of them all. salaries coming from the government. ple don’t want to learn And it has yet to apply But Dr. Nocera’s goal is not simply to anything. The only thing for inclusion in the law.” maintain an archaic tongue among the they want to learn is to hills of Calabria. drive,” the old man told “Most people don’t know us. or don’t believe it, but “We don’t want to teach a dead lan- many of us are descended guage. The children should learn survives primarily from the Greeks. Look at the surnames. . They should be able to through an oral tradition, a language Thirty percent of them are Greek in ori- go to Athens and speak and be under- of shepherds and villagers, though gin.” He looked up at the ceiling as he stood.” He showed me a dictionary of some written examples survive, thought of some examples. “Crea. It Calabrian Greek and its modest con- usually in . Nineteenth cen- means ‘meat.’ Romeo. It means ‘from tents. “It is better for them to learn a tury folklorists transcribed local songs Constantinople.’ Chila, ‘man with fat useful modern language and include for posterity and more recently local lips.’ Chardia, ‘heart.’ Monorchio,” he the truly Calabrian words.” writers have created original works chuckled and held up his index finger, that seek to preserve the language. “‘man with one testicle.’ Even the for- “This year is the Olympics in Greece,” 5 mer mayor’s name, Falcomatà meant he told me. “I would like to see A week after visiting the village I met calderaio, ‘coppersmith.’ So you see? Calabria recognized as part of that her- with Carmelo Giuseppe Nucera, the It’s not just a few speakers in some itage. In fact, in August we will take a president of an organization called villages.” local group of Greek singers to Athens. Apodiafàzzi (www.apodiafazzi.com). What most people don’t realize is that The name means “the light before the The legislation simply lays the ground- the Greeks here were renowned cham- dawn,” appropriate for a group trying work for a process that must pions when the Olympics first to spotlight Greco-Calabro culture. be taken up by the people began.” He drew out a pam- themselves, and phlet with a picture of two Until Parliament changed the law in Apodiafazzi is leading the ancient coins on it. “You see 1999, the Italian Constitution hadn’t way. One article of the law these? They are in commemo- included Greek speakers in the regions allows for public broadcast- ration of an Olympic victory. of Calabria and Puglia as protected ing time for the language; Anassila di Reggio, the ‘’ minorities. These “protections” come on certain Saturdays there of Reggio in 480 B.C., was a in the form of government funding for are short bits in Greek on champion racer.” projects and educational programs the local television channel. designed to maintain a minority Apodiafazzi is also publish- Today Calabria is undertaking culture. Apodiafazzi is helping ing some tourist brochures and another Olympian challenge and as Calabria’s estimated 5,000 Greek historical works in Greek. I left Dr. Nucera, I felt optimisitc, speakers get these protections. despite the odds, it may just emerge Another element of the law makes victorious. ◆ “There are nine communities which Greek optional in the elementary —Kevin Revolinski have applied for inclusion in the schools. Families will need to encour- regional law of October 2003. I told age their kids to learn. But even more Kevin Revolinski is a writer living in Reggio you that 20 percent of these communi- importantly, teachers need to be Calabria where he is at work on a collection of stories about his experiences there. ties speak Greek, but truly that is just a trained and hired. What was being He can be reached at [email protected] acked internal and external roads. News, Tips, Deals New at THE MALL Cozy Cairoli Offers he outdoor shopping complex handbags were tagged at about half off Roman Hideaway housing the outlet stores of design- the original prices. Also new at The T ome’s Locanda Cairoli can be a bit ers such as Gucci, Armani and Mall is La Perla, one of Italy’s Valentino just keeps growing. finest lingerie brands. At this hard to find, but that’s part of its The building that once outlet, you can buy beautiful- charm. Only a small brass sign in housed The Mall’s surpris- ly made bras, panties and R front of a huge wooden door notes the ingly good café is now home nightgowns, at a significant to a Hogan/Tod’s outlet. And discount, similar to the prices location of this small 4-star hotel at the back there are some real bargains you might pay at home at of an old palazzo on Piazza Cairoli just blocks to be had there, which isn’t Victoria’s Secret. For more from the monument to Vittorio Emmanuele. always the case at these information, call (39) 055 designer outlets. Recently, 8657775 or e-mail info@ With a warm décor and equally warm serv- Tod’s ladies driving mocs design-management.it were selling for just 75€ a (For more on The Mall, see ice, this 13-room gem feels like a country pair. That’s a third of their DOI’s January/February inn in the middle of the city. Cairoli’s beauti- regular price. Gorgeous soft 2003 issue.) ◆ ful wood furniture is complemented by a leather Hogan and Tod’s 6 blue and white color scheme.The owner is 1 € = $1.24 at press time clearly an art collector as paintings and sculptures are on generous display in the We All Scream For…Gelato! common rooms and guest rooms alike. hen investment banker Michael explains the history of gelato and how The palazzo’s high ceilings add to the airy, W McGarry’s wife received a year- it is to be eaten properly. He also relaxing atmosphere. long art history fellowship in Bologna includes a glossary of over 75 flavors, and Rome, he wasn’t sure what he which is very helpful for any serious Each guest room has a television with VCR, would do while she was gelato lover/traveler. La CD player, hair dryer and coffeemaker, as working. A visit to Sorbetteria is still one of well as an eclectic mix of guides to Rome. In Bologna’s La Sorbetteria McGarry’s favorite - convinced him that his terias but he also has a the hotel’s sitting room, a gigantic wood calling was gelato. And special place in his heart farm table provides the perfect setting for so began a year of first- for the legendary Roman the daily buffet breakfast. Cairoli’s staff mem- hand research that culmi- gelateria, Gioliti. “Half of nated in his book Gelato: Finding Italy’s it is the experience. It is always packed bers are friendly and helpful, yet discreet. Best Gelaterias (Fancy Pants Press, and there is always a scene,” he says. And best of all, a stay here comes with an $10.00). Gelato changed McGarry’s life. He has affordable price tag.The rate for a double McGarry reviews over 50 gelaterias in left investment banking and started his room is 240€ per night including breakfast. northern Italy as well as Rome and own publishing company. His books on . He plans a follow-up volume American ice cream should be available For more information, call (39) 06 6880 on southern Italy and Sicily. by next summer. For more information, 9278 or visit www.locandacairoli.it ◆ Interspersed with reviews, McGarry visit www.happybellyguides.com ◆ “The world is a book, and those who do not and Events G ITALY’S Best Beaches Why Didn’t We Think of This? ourists looking for pristine these ratings, scoring two and There’s nothing quite like a drive through the beaches in Italy would be three out of a possible five T rolling hills and stunning landscape of Tuscany. wise to head south respectively. Ratings But so many questions come up along the way. this year. take into account What’s that castle over there? Is it worth it to stop natural beauty, con- Legambiente, an at this town or that one? The new company tamination but also Italian environmen- Hear’s A Journey offers the answers to these questions in the tourist structures, tal group, publishes form of two driving tours that you can listen to in your car’s noise levels and an annual beach tape player as you set out from Siena into the Tuscan coun- environment-friendly guide, which uses 128 parame- tryside. waste systems. ters to comb 243 coastal spots Each audio tour lasts for a total of 90 minutes, but you can in a yearly quality test.This year, Ten spots received a perfect five make a day of it by stopping at the various towns and sites it again gave southern Italy or out of five “sails” rating: pointed out on the tape. The driving tour discusses each place the Mezzogiorno top marks. Not Calabria: Tropea before you reach the town or site and provides directions on all of Italy’s 1,000+ miles of Campania: Pollica Acciaroli, how to get there. You can stop or continue as you like. coastline makes the grade, but Pioppi the good news is that figures Each tour tape comes with a booklet that includes a driving Liguria: Cinque Terre are improving. map with directions, town maps, places of interest and a Puglia: , Isole Tremiti calendar of festivals and events. Hear’s A Journey offers 7 The list can be used to decide : Arbus, Buoso, Orosei South of Siena and Northwest of Siena driving tours at $15.95 where to go, but also where to Tuscany: Castiglione della each. For more information, call (973) 403-8989 or visit expect crowds. In a recent poll Pescaia www.hearsajourney.com 41% of Italians said they plan to Sandy spots with a “four-sail” vacation in 2004 by sunning on rating include: Italian beaches. Campania: Anacapri, Positano On the Web: There has been some jostling Marches: Sirolo over the previous years’ top Tuscany: Isola del Giglio Finding a Cooking School ten, but southern beaches con- Gourmetget.com: Marlene Iaciofano’s site features her own tinue to dominate better-known For a free, searchable database cooking tours as well as detailed information on the several dozen locales in Liguria and Tuscany. of Italy’s beaches, visit Italian cooking schools she represents in the U.S. Famous beach spots Rimini and www.legambiente.com Riccione on the Adriatic coast —Nicole Martinelli, Italycookingschools.com: Mama Margaret’s search engine were towards the bottom of zoomata.com includes over 100 schools throughout Italy.This site also has some helpful articles on how to choose a cooking school and get the most out of the experience. Coming in Shawguides.com: If you can’t find it on this Web site, it probably doesn’t exist. Shaw Guides is the granddaddy of cultural travel September… search engines. It has listings for 17 professional cooking schools in Italy as well as an astounding 766 A Special recreational programs. Shaw Guides also publishes a 398-page Report on print version of its guide to world- wide cooking schools which can CHIANTI be ordered from any book store. travel read only one page.” —St. Augustine Special Stays in Milan’s Shopping District

Blowout Choice: I often judge hotels on the quality of The Bulgari Hotel, Milano their bathrooms. Although it may sound cliché, when I walked into mine, With the backing of a luxury goods I thought I had died and gone to company, a location in the heart of one heaven. The well-lit and airy marble of Milan’s most exclusive neighbor- bathroom featured a large tub, bronze- hoods, bell hops who could (and prob- accented shower, separate toilet area, ably do) double as male models and Budget Choice: thick white towels and a slew of sweet- elegant, modern décor, I expected the smelling bath products from Bulgari's Hotel Manzoni brand-new Bulgari Hotel to be, well, Green Tea line. There was also a large how can I say this, a bit cold. I was For those who want to stay in the mid- window overlooking the garden. Next completely wrong. dle of the shopping district, but who to the tub was a bath menu, in case I don’t want to pay the equivalent of a No matter that I inadvertently arrived wanted a staff member to whip me up Prada bag for the privilege, the Hotel in the sleek, modern, black marble a relaxing aromatherapy bath (for an Manzoni is an ideal choice. On a quiet lobby in jeans and running sneakers additional fee). street just off of Via Montenapoleone, the (yikes, can you say American?), I was Even luxury travelers who are paying Manzoni offers one of the best deals in treated to a warm welcome and a gen- a small fortune per night, don’t like to the entire city. A double room with uine interest in my stay in Milan. The € be nickel-and-dimed and I was pleased breakfast is 193 year-round. This 52- hotel had been open for just 10 days that the hotel offered free Internet room hotel offers comfort without the and while this might have accounted access on the plasma TV as well as frills. There’s a bar and television 8 for the enthusiasm of the staff, the complimentary use of a laptop lounge just off the lobby. The guest I like to think they will be just computer. rooms are small but functional with as friendly a year from now. simple, yet attractive décor. Some of I knew this hotel was truly I knew this hotel stay was going the rooms have balconies. All have tel- focused on the details when to be different when my taxi evision, hair dryers and air condition- the chocolates I received at driver turned on to a private ing. Don’t expect bath menus here as turn-down were so luscious that road and checked in with a the bathrooms contain showers only. I saved the wrappers on the side security guard. Set next to Travelers renting cars and heading off table so that I could remember Milan’s botanical gardens, to the Lakes or other destinations the brand name, Babbi. The yet just steps from Armani’s should take note that the Manzoni has housekeeper noticed my flagship store, the Bulgari is a an attached garage where guests can enthusiasm and returned to my room resort oasis in the middle of a bustling park for an additional fee. If you’re one night to give me a few extra. This city. Most of the guest rooms have planning a visit to Milan, make your winning combination of detail and views of the hotel’s lovely back garden reservation at Hotel Manzoni as soon service extended to the bottle of water which turns into an already-popular- as possible. The word is out on this the front desk clerk handed me as I left with-the-chic-locals outdoor lounge in affordable gem. One travel agent I for the airport. It was like she had read the evenings. know has never been able to book a my mind. room here, while I was able to secure a My surprisingly cozy room was Bulgari Hotel last-minute reservation at the decorated in a palette of black, beige, Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7b beginning of June. white and tobacco. It had a walk-in (39) 02 8058051 closet (there’s a free unpacking and Hotel Manzoni www.bulgarihotels.com packing service), a black leather desk, Via Santo Spirito 20 Rates: Through August, the a movable flat-screen television, a (39) 02 76005700 introductory rate for a superior Tivoli CD player and two plush, www.hotelmanzoni.com double room is 450€ per night. pillow-strewn beds. Rates: A single room with breakfast costs 135€ per night; a suite is 260€ per € 1 = $1.24 at press time night, including breakfast.◆ Milan is northern Italy’s richest city.