INSIDE: Barilla’s New Culinary Venture 3 Gelato Guide 6 Italy’s Best Beaches 7 Stay in Milan’s Modern Shopping District 8 Art Among the Vines ou don’t expect to see a master- piece of contemporary art amid dream of Y rows of choice vines in Italy’s Piemonte region. That’s exactly what you’ll find, though, atop a hill just outside the town of La Morra — a tiny chapel, called the Capella di Sol LeWitt — David Tremlett, whose colorful abstract exterior might seem more at home in New York’s Museum of Modern Art. ITALYVolume 3, Issue 7 www.dreamofitaly.com July/August 2004 But to the workers who earn their liv- ing in the surrounding vineyards of the Langhe district, the area famous for Italy Meets Greece the Nebbiolo grape found in Barolo, Barbaresco, Dolcetto and Barbera wines, this paradoxical structure is a tribute in a Corner of Calabria to the long winemaking tradition of this land. hough January was merely ahead. There was a sign, alright, but I days behind us almond trees wasn’t able to read it — it was written Credit brothers Bruno and Marcello were already in blossom. The in Greek. It announced our arrival in Ceretto — two of Italy’s most promi- T wind was still chilly but the Gallicianò. nent wine producers — and two con- sun felt warm enough to melt ricotta as temporary artists, one American and Giovanni and I drove through the We followed a mercilessly weaving one British, for envisioning the unlike- winding roads up from the road through rocky hills that ly symmetry between modern art and Ionian coast on a beautiful day became mountains overlooking the Langhe heritage of winemaking. in Calabria, at the toe of Italy’s a wide wash full of scattered boot. stones. We passed a variety of trees: When the Cerettos purchased the sur- oaks, eucalyptus, olive, mimosa, and rounding vineyard in 1976, the chapel, I was teaching English to more almond trees exploding though not old by Italian standards, Giovanni, a thirty-year-old pub with white blossoms. Oranges was dangerously close to ruin. Santa owner in Reggio Calabria, and he and lemons glowed brightly in Maria della Grazie, as it was known was teaching me about life in southern the sun. then, had been constructed in 1914 as Italy. During a lesson he told me about a small church as well as a shelter for an amazing cultural anomaly just And when we arrived in a small vil- workers from the thunderstorms that south of town. “I can take you there,” lage tucked into the slope, we smelled occasionally pummel the hills and he offered. In fact, it was new territory bergamot — the lemon-like fruit unique valleys of the Langhe. Never conse- even for Giovanni, and so he had to to Calabria that gives Earl Grey Tea its crated and rarely visited, the neglect- stop for directions. An old woman in a essence. Whispering breezes carried ed chapel deteriorated from decades black sweater and heavy wool skirt the clanging of tin bells and bleats of of exposure to the alternating hot told Giovanni to look for a sign up continued on page 4 continued on page 2 Mountains cover 40% of Calabria. Modern Art Among the Vines continued from page 1 summers and cold winters of the area. Tremlett to restore and dec- melds into yellow and Its crumbling façade became a poten- orate the decaying chapel. then into orange, and you tial danger to the workers passing by sense the changing sea- on their way to the adjacent vineyards. Tremlett immediately enlist- sons and life-giving sun. Its demolition seemed imminent. ed his friend, American At the far end of the artist Sol LeWitt, to assist chapel, a triangle of pale The decision to save the chapel was with the project. LeWitt The Barolo Chapel, before (above) blue represents, perhaps, made, appropriately enough, over a shared both Tremlett’s pas- and after (below). the nourishing rain. And glass of wine. In 1997, David Tremlett, sion for wine and his vision for a overhead, the most fervent reds an internationally acclaimed British contemporary interpretation of symbolize the pinnacle of the artist who happened to have a passion the winemaking tradition. harvest — the deep-colored for excellent wines, was visiting with Barolo wine produced from the the Cerettos after having participated “The two artists were conquered surrounding vineyards. in an exhibition of contem- by the simplicity and porary art at nearby respect of the tradi- Perhaps as proof that for some Castello di Barolo. When tion of my family people appreciation of contem- Bruno Ceretto asked and the people that live on porary art is an acquired taste, the Tremlett what he should those hills,” Roberta chapel’s makeover wasn’t without its do with the chapel, the Ceretto explains. She is the critics when it was completed in 1999. artist proposed transform- Il Cubo daughter of Bruno and, According to Roberta Ceretto, some of ing it into a symbol celebrating the along with her brother and cousins, is the locals considered it a bit too extrav- vineyards, wines and people of the now actively involved in running the agant at first. But now, she assures, it Langhe. family’s wineries. “The philosophy at has become accepted as a symbol for 2 the base of the project with Sol and the Langhe. Like the wines it cele- The Cerettos aren’t strangers to the David was to create a place, unique brates, the Capella di Sol LeWitt — harmony between modern art and tra- and joyful as the chapel is, to share David Tremlett is bold and one of a ditional culture. The architectural focal with the whole community, and we kind. point of their winery Bricco Rocche is a think that we reached this goal.” large glass and steel sculpture, called Il And if you doubt the artists’ passion Cubo. The family readily commissioned The exterior, designed and decorated behind their creation, consider this: For by LeWitt, strikes you with its vibrant their restoration of the chapel, they geometric forms — all painted in were paid with bottles of wine! rich blue, green, yellow, orange or The Details red and framed by the natural “Both LeWitt and Tremlett bricks of the chapel. Horizontal love wine, so we proposed to The Capella di Sol LeWitt — David scallops evoke the surrounding pay them simply in Barolo,” Tremlett, sometimes known simply as hills of vineyards. Bold rectan- Roberta says, “One bottle a the Barolo Chapel, is open daily. gles and vertical lines accentuate week for the rest of their lives The Ceretto wineries occasionally the chapel’s architecture. The vivid of Barolo Bricco Rocche Brunate. sponsor concerts and other special colors express celebration. It’s one of our best Barolos and events on the chapel’s grounds. the one that grows in the vine- Tremlett’s contribution, the interior, yard around the chapel.” ◆ Wine tastings and tours of the family’s captures the more spiritual nature of wineries are available by appointment the winemaking tradition. On one —Michael Slagle only, Monday through Friday, and large panel, tones of brown and green Michael Slagle is a freelance writer residing in Fort must be booked at least a week prior — the colors of the soil and vines — Wayne, Indiana. He travels frequently to Italy and to your visit. For more information, harmonize into one another. Opposite, considers Piemonte one of the country’s most “under- call (39) 0173 282582 or visit a muted red gains intensity on another discovered” and rewarding tourist destinations. www.ceretto.com panel and suggests the maturing grapes. On the adjacent walls, white “Good wine is a good familiar creatu Only the Best for ACADEMIA BARILLA ith its sleek, modern surprisingly, prosciut- Balsamico selling for design and state-of-the- to cutters made by a Upcoming Courses in English about 30€. At the W art technology, this cook- Dutch manufacturer. Futurist Cuisine: moment these ing school might be found anywhere in The kitchens were The Italian Futurist Movement delicacies are only the world. But the fact that it’s in designed with September 17, 2004 available at a store Parma, Italian and now European food ergonomic styling; near the school. capital, and that it’s backed by one of the flow of the Italian First Courses the most recognizable brand names in kitchens follows the September 13-14 or 21-22, 2004 Every corner of the Italy, makes all the difference. The flow of the meals. Italian Holiday Menus Barilla facility seems dream child of the brothers behind November 13-15 or 22 -24, 2004 to hold something Italy’s most famous pasta, Academia Safety is intriguing. A 30,000- Barilla, a cooking academy for profes- supreme at Academia volume gastronomic library will open sionals and enthusiasts Barilla. The knives and later this summer. Under the library, alike, opened in April. cutting boards are color-coded there will be a wine cellar. There’s a to keep vegetables and meats private restaurant for the students. The school is part of the separate. Knives are put in There’s even a wood oven for pizza Barilla Center, a modern special sterilization holders. making, a rarity for a cooking school. shopping and entertain- The school’s air system filters Academia Barilla combines the best of ment venue designed by Rienzo Piano, and circulates the air in such a way traditional culinary instruction with positioned just outside Parma’s beauti- that even if every stove were to leak 21st century innovation. ◆ ful historic center.