Northeast HiddenExploring the Western Front and beyond in Meuse, Aisne, Somme and Pas-de-Calais INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTION

"For this tour, we trace the Western Front with one Discover four of the best eye on history and the other on pure holiday pleasure" From battlefields to beautiful countryside, splendid architecture and great food, the northeast has it all In Pas-de-Calais (Hauts-de- France), the now-obsolete mining industry has yielded to fresh, Visiting Meuse, Aisne, Somme passionate, knowledgeable tour futuristic projects such as the new and Pas-de-Calais – four diverse, guides to tech-driven interactive Louvre-Lens museum. fascinating and very welcoming displays, each demands our time Aisne (Hauts-de-France) has départements in France’s northeast and attention. architectural beauties to rival any in corner that served as grisly, Western In terms of Remembrance, the France, from Art Deco gems in Saint- Front theatres of war from 1914 to 2018 centenary of the Armistice Quentin to Laon’s medieval streets 1918 – means so much more than may have attracted huge numbers and Gothic cathedral; and paying your respects to brave of visitors, but the moral obligation in the Somme, just take a stroll soldiers from all sides (and many to remember the lost continues at around Amiens’s lively Saint-Leu innocent French residents) killed, impeccably-maintained, intimate quarter on a warm summer’s wounded or missing during the cemeteries and colossal, landscape- evening or witness the cathedral’s Great War. redefining memorials. astonishing light show for a truly Verdun in Meuse (Grand Est) However, beyond the battlefields life-enhancing experience. and Somme (Hauts-de-France) and memorials, life today in this For this, our south-to-north are household names for visitors part of France goes on with a spring tour of the towns, villages, because of the battles that took in its step. Just as, post-World War landscapes, museums and key place here, and there are many One, the forests were replanted – on war sites of the four départements, stories to honour. soil scorched and scarred by endless we trace the Western Front with one Museums play a key role in each shelling and artillery fire – so the eye on history and the other on pure département, offering humbling regions also move forward with Clockwise from top left: A spectacular aerial holiday pleasures: slow tourism, view from the belfry in ; Amiens Cathedral glimpses into the endurance of their rich cultural, culinary and celebrates its 800th anniversary this year; war green escapes, city break ideas, fun the human spirit in the face of tourist offerings. artefacts displayed at the impressive Caverne du activities, superb gastronomy and atrocity and destruction. From Visit Meuse in summertime, Dragon in Aisne; one of many Art Deco details to art and history galore, plus great be spotted in Saint-Quentin; enjoy a stylish stay

M HARMEL; R LE BIDEAU; HORIZON BLEU; S CAMBON; LA PEYLOUSE; H BALESSE BLEU; S CAMBON; LA PEYLOUSE; HORIZON M HARMEL; R LE BIDEAU; small, personal collections of when golden wheatfields and bright places to stay. © at the Belle-Époque Manoir de la Peylouse near wartime memorabilia to behemoth, yellow mirabelle plums are all Béthune, Pas-de-Calais; the American First World For the true Francophile, the

IMAGES IMAGES state-of-the-art historials, and from sunshine and regrowth. War cemetery at Belleau in Aisne rewards are rich and many...

2 3 MEUSE MEUSE

The magic of Meuse

As a starting point, the town of Bar-le-Duc is hard to beat. Providing a majestic step back to the 16th century, this quaint, quiet and easy- on-the-eye former capital of the Monument américain aux morts Duchy of Bar has some of the most de Pennsylvanie in Varennes-en- beautifully preserved Renaissance Argonne (built in 1927). The Argonne architecture in France. In its upper Museum in Varennes currently has town, look up at the pediments an excellent collection of World and gargoyles peering down onto War One 3D images on display the rue des Ducs de Bar, then head (seven hours’ worth!), while the to the stunning place Saint-Pierre town’s clock tower is notable, too. to admire the Gothic style and Meuse is a true gem for lovers of Clockwise from above: The peace Here, King Louis XVI and Marie and tranquillity of the open road in Renaissance details of Saint-Étienne the French countryside, and getting Meuse make for a delightful driving Antoinette were nabbed in June 1791 church. Inside, spot two major around by car is a delight – you are experience; art-spotting in the Vent by Revolutionaries after fleeing Paris. sculptural works by Ligier Richier more likely to see a tractor than a des Forêts; the Fort de Douaumont; A must-see close by is the – Lorraine’s greatest Renaissance car on most of the country roads. the area's emblematic poppies; the Romagne 14-18 museum, where mirabelle plum is a juicy Meuse icon; in artist – one of which is Transi de toast or to accompany foie gras. former courthouse that now Bar-le-Duc, redcurrant jam is prepared Dutchman Jean-Paul de Vries has René de Chalon, a striking skeletal En route from Bar-le-Duc to houses exhibitions, or the amazing Remembrance in Meuse by hand using a goose feather to gathered an eclectic collection representation of a tormented soul Saint-Mihiel (about 35km), make a Benedictine library upstairs in the In September 1914, with Meuse in remove the pips; the town is brimming of war artefacts, including many dating from 1547. stop at Vent des Forêts, an outdoor former Abbey. Of its 8,780 volumes, the front line, German forces pushed with eye-catching architectural detail weapons from the local area, which from the Renaissance period The juicy, yellow mirabelle plum contemporary art hub in the forest 74 are manuscripts dating from the 20km beyond French defences near he first visited on holiday as a is an iconic fruit in Meuse and you with trails of varying lengths. It is ninth to the 16th centuries. Saint-Mihiel to form what became child. The collection depicts daily can find it in umpteen guises – in perfect for those with an appetite The town is also a handy base for known as the Saint-Mihiel salient life for a soldier in an area that desserts, jam, liqueur... Another for combining a walk with wide- outdoors pursuits – kayak along the (‘bulge’ or land that juts out). Monument, 377m up on the Butte witnessed vicious and prolonged fruity delight to sample in Bar-le- eyed wonder. Meuse river from here or at nearby This scene of fierce fighting is de Montsec). fighting. The charming café next Duc is the luxurious confiture de Once in Saint-Mihiel, enjoy more Lake Madine, or ride a hired bike today marked by remaining trenches, Among many other door offers pause for reflection and groseilles, made lovingly by hand spectacular Ligier Richier works, along the new EuroVelo 19 route. If dug and inhabited by both sides. commemorative sites in this part refreshment. Leaving Argonne and (the redcurrant seeds are removed including The Entombment, a set you have a flat, the tourist office can Franco-US forces finally liberated of Meuse are the Meuse-Argonne heading southeast, you reach the

MICHEL PETIT; GUILLAUME RAMON; JAN VETTER, FOTOWORX.DE; GIL GIUGLIO VETTER, FOTOWORX.DE; RAMON; JAN GUILLAUME MICHEL PETIT; using a goose feather!). This ‘fruit of 13 characters cut in limestone help – they have an ‘accueil cycliste’ it in September 1918 (lost US American Cemetery; the battle- Verdun battlefield, scene of © caviar’, favoured by Alfred blocks in Saint-Étienne church. service and will pump up your tyres troops are commemorated at the scarred hill at Butte de Vauquois the longest battle of all, from

IMAGES IMAGES Hitchcock himself, can be used on Elsewhere, don’t miss the splendid for free! immaculate Montsec American (a village razed in 1915); and the February to December 1916. For

4 5 EYEBROW AISNE

and see a 155mm gun turret, pay tribute to these tragic ‘ghost A sparkling adventure in Aisne barracks, historical films, villages’. If visiting the area photographs and use detailed in summer, try to catch Des multimedia guides. Over 600 Flammes à la lumière. This full- Germans are buried here. cast light and sound spectacular Finally, witness the sacrifice of has over 300 actors and is run French communities during the war by the Connaissance de la Meuse at one of nine ‘destroyed villages’. Association. The narrative follows Places such as Beaumont- life from the trenches to post- en-Verdunois, Fleury-devant- war and its themes of hope and Douaumont and Haumont-près- reconciliation chime nicely with Samogneux were obliterated modern day Verdun. Translation by shelling and lost forever. headsets are available. Plaques and memorial chapels www.tourisme-meuse.com Eat and sleep...

From top: American troops are commemorated at the moving and immaculately-maintained Montsec Memorial; a detail from the superb Ligier Richier sculpture inside the Saint-Étienne church in Saint-Mihiel

an all-round perspective, visit a Aisne produces 10 per cent of all champagne – enjoy tastings, tours and vineyard visits at producers such as Météyer clutch of four sites locally. First, the brilliantly-conceived Verdun Leaving Meuse and heading west, depictions of oxen, whose efforts Mississippi River Valley in the US. Memorial museum offers a concise then north, on the A4/A26 you reach in lugging the limestone up the hill Around 45km north of Laon is historical background to the war; the historic town of Laon, one of the for the cathedral’s construction are Saint-Quentin, whose resurrection a replica (noises and all) of the 1916 Enjoy a pampered stay at the stunning Château des Monthairons Aisne département’s showstoppers, honoured. Next door, meanwhile, following 80 per cent destruction battlefield; and everyday objects and its capital. the former Hôtel-Dieu houses the during World War One (it was on used by soldiers such as mess tins WHERE TO STAY IN MEUSE WHERE TO EAT IN MEUSE Sitting majestically atop the tourist office. the Hindenburg Line, and all of and cigarette packets. As big-ticket In Bar-le-Duc, stay at the chambre In the heart of Saint-Mihiel, Montagne Couronnée (Crowned Laon’s narrow, medieval streets its occupants left in March 1917) is museums go, it is exceptional. d’hôtes Au Lévrier d’Argent, in Boulangerie Félix Mageot is a Mountain) in wheatfield country, the are a joy to explore: seek out especially significant thanks to the Next is Douaumont, where an the Renaissance upper town, for lively pâtisserie serving excellent eye-pleasing nook initially enjoyed the Museum of Laon, used as a abundance of Art Deco buildings epic-scale ossuary shelters the a warm welcome, charming sandwiches and homemade burgers great wealth thanks to its wine makeshift synagogue for German that came to prominence during remains of 130,000 unknown French courtyard and homemade – ideal for a quick lunch in between industry (ruined by phylloxera at Army Jews during World War One, the 1920s. and German soldiers. The 137m-long jam on the breakfast table. site visits. +33 (0)3 29 89 01 44 the end of the 19th century) and and beside it a rare Templars’ chapel. Spot the blend of brightly- cloister has 42 interior alcoves, while aulevrierdargent.fr Grill de la Tour, 15 rue du Baile was also a garrison town. There are lovely boutiques to browse coloured edifices lining the main the climbable tower is 46m high. Château des Monthairons is a in Bar-le-Duc serves, as its name Its skyline is dominated by and restaurants to enjoy – try local square: mixed in with Art Deco are The 20 minute film, The Heroism of gorgeous 19th-century castle on the suggest, fire-cooked meats and local the spectacular Notre-Dame Picardy speciality, ficelle picarde, Flemish- and Baroque-style façades. Soldiers in Verdun, is captivating. Meuse river, with a spa and superb specialities. +33 (0)3 29 76 14 08 Cathedral, completed in 1235 and a ham and mushroom pancake A look around the Hôtel de Ville The mighty Fort de Douaumont restaurant – a place to treat yourself. In Verdun, Chez Mamie serves one of the first primitive Gothic slathered in cheese. (1509) is essential – the flamboyant was captured four days into the chateaudesmonthairons.fr simple local cuisine in a homely church buildings in the world. Its Also noteworthy: the town was Gothic exterior with 173 sculptures is Battle of Verdun by the Germans, In Verdun, Maison Mirabeau atmosphere with checked statues were renovated from 1854 home to Suzanne Noël, one of the impressive enough, and the regular

C. RIGOLOT; MICHEL PETIT; CHAMPAGNE METEYER CHAMPAGNE MICHEL PETIT; C. RIGOLOT; who used it to house troops before is a lovely guesthouse with funky tablecloths. Be sure to book ahead. to the start of World War One, first plastic surgeons, and another chiming of the carillon bells is © it was recaptured in October 1916. You décor and table-d’hôtes cooking. 52 Avenue de la 42ème Division; when the cathedral served as a Laonnois, Jacques Marquette, was delightful. But most eye-catching is

IMAGES IMAGES can wander the cold, damp corridors maisonmirabeau.com +33 (0)3 29 86 45 50 field hospital. Look out for stone the first European to explore the the Louis Guindez-designed Art

6 7 AISNE AISNE

Deco woodwork and ironwork in the insights into events such as the in wheat, during the advance on the room used for the Conseil Municipal famously doomed Nivelle Offensive village of Bouresches. meetings. It is truly magnificent. and the Second Battle of the Aisne Also unmissable for US visitors The Art Deco-spotting continues in April-May 1917. This failed attack is the new Interpretation Centre in many places around town (it pays on German lines had a huge effect at Côte 204, near Château-Thierry. to look up). on French army morale and led to This small museum charts America’s Saint-Quentin is a lively place mutiny. To appreciate the courage involvement in the war. Finally, with big-name shops, some great and sacrifice of American fighters, the Château de Blérancourt is a bars and lots of cultural spots head to the Aisne-Marne US must-visit. It houses the Museum of to enjoy. Make time to tour the Cemetery next to Belleau Wood, site Franco-American Cooperation and Antoine Lécuyer museum, which of heavy losses in June 1918 (there served as the headquarters of the houses pastels by Louis XV’s official are 2,289 graves here, though many American Committee for Devastated portraitist, Maurice Quentin de La more died). Look out for the tomb of France, founded by Anne Morgan Tour. The Place de l’Hôtel de Ville is Weedon E. Osborne of the US Navy, (daughter of financier JP Morgan), transformed into a big beach during a Medal of Honour recipient. He was who helped rebuild the Aisne the summer. killed trying to rescue his captain département post-war. from an under-fire field, waist-deep www.jaimelaisne.com "Saint-Quentin is a lively place with big- name shops, some great Eat and sleep... bars and lots of cultural spots to enjoy" banks of the Sambre-Oise canal in November 1918, just a week before Aisne produces around 10 per the war ended. An hour from cent of all champagne and many Saint-Quentin is the Caverne du producers open up their cellars for Dragon, an underground quarry tours and a jolly sip. The Météyer that served as a barracks (for both family business – run today by French and German soldiers). It sits producer Franck Météyer and his on a limestone ridge on the frontline super-friendly wife Anna – was sector known as the 40km stretch formed in 1860 and in 2017 was of the Chemin des Dames, a key the first to receive UNESCO’s Western Front strategic stronghold Patrimoine Mondiale recognition. on the route to Paris, and the ridge Its Trélou-sur-Marne base houses a where trench warfare began in quaint museum of old winemaker’s September 1914 after the first Battle tools and the pair hosts food and of the Marne. Treat yourself to a luxurious stay, including a spa, at the splendid Château de Fère wine pairing sessions. And visitors The British Expeditionary Force get a chance to buy a bottle or three, took part in the follow-up offensive, WHERE TO STAY IN AISNE WHERE TO EAT IN AISNE bien sûr. the First Battle of Aisne, soon after Hôtel du Golf de L’Ailette on the In Laon, the cosy and welcoming (September 12-15) – a battle which Chemin des Dames provides an L’Estaminet Saint-Jean serves Aisne war stories Clockwise from top: ultimately ended in stalemate. elegant lakeside stay with very well- up daily specials and local treats The British war poet Wilfred Owen The spectacular Louis Guindez- Today, poppies flutter serenely appointed rooms and an excellent such as goyère au maroilles, designed Conseil Municipal meeting served in the Saint-Quentin area in the breeze as you approach the a quiche-like baked flan. room at Saint-Quentin town hall is restaurant, L’Albatros. twice and his time there left an an artisanal masterpiece; Caverne brand new visitors' centre, from www.ailette.fr estaminetsaintjean.com indelible mark on his subsequent du Dragon, as seen from the air; hear where guided tours take you deep For a sumptuous five-star stay, Grab a great-value lunch at work. His July 1918 poem 'Spring some tales of extraordinary bravery into the cave network to reveal the head to Château de Fère. It features the Hôtel Île-de-France in the at the Aisne-Marne US cemetery; the Offensive' references an attack on town of Château-Thierry – very Monument américain de la Côte 204 former field hospitals, command 29 rooms and suites of the highest

S CAMBON; CDT AISNE; HORIZON BLEU; COLIN; AS FLAMENT BLEU; COLIN; AS AISNE; HORIZON S CAMBON; CDT Saint-Quentin by his 2nd Battalion, near Château-Thierry; a visitor highlight posts and even a chapel. comfort, a spa and gastronomic handy for a visit to the Belleau © Manchester Regt on April 14, 1917. in historic Laon is its cathedral A guided visit of the area is also restaurant. The service is faultless. Wood site and cemetery.

IMAGES IMAGES He was killed in action on the recommended – notably for its www.chateaudefere.com hotel-iledefrance.com

8 9 SPECIAL SUBSCRIPTIONS OFFER SPECIAL SUBSCRIPTIONS OFFER

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10 11 SOMME SOMME

the many and varied Great War Sample the best of Somme museums and memorials that mark the Somme Offensive, which took place between July 1 and November 18, 1916. If you have a car, Somme you can make day trips around the Sample the best of département to pay your respects to those who died in one of the bloodiest battles in human history. You can also take advantage of the Somme Battlefields’ Partner network – 140 professionals who can advise on places to visit, accommodation and more to help you get the most from your experience, plus guides. An apt place to begin is the all-encompassing, expertly conceived Historial de la Grande Guerre in Péronne, a town occupied by the Germans for almost the duration of the war.

"An apt place to begin is at the expertly conceived Historial de la Grande The capital of Somme is historic and it took just 68 years to finish throughout the year with festivities Guerre in Péronne, a town Amiens, and as a city-break what remains the tallest completed and a special son et lumière: Chroma. occupied by the Germans" destination it offers an exceptional cathedral in France (42m at its For the sake of juxtaposition and range of attractive options: peak). It is located on a small ridge more contemporary architectural proximity to Paris (just an hour overlooking the Somme River. thinking, take a look at Tour Perret The museum guides visitors using by train), historical intrigue and It underwent restoration in the (completed in 1952) opposite the a 360-degree perspective, with a architectural appeal (a resplendent 19th century. Details to look out for train station; both were designed timeline from pre- to post-war (1870 UNESCO-listed Gothic cathedral, include the flying buttresses and by the architect Auguste Perret. For to the 1930s), elements from the Jules Verne’s house), a lively night- ribbed vaults that let light flood in; some time the biggest ‘skyscraper’ Home Front (18,000 objects in total, time ambience (the Saint-Leu its three-tier interior elevation; and in Western Europe, today it contains marshland, called Les about five per cent exhibited at any district is totally buzzing, and pretty the fine display of sculptures on flats and offices. Hortillonnages. These ‘floating’ one time), uniforms and propaganda to boot), plenty for kids to do, plus the main façade (count 750 in total Next to the cathedral is a peaceful gardens have been exploited by items. There are even guidebooks many green spaces – including around the whole exterior!). For a garden while beyond that is the market gardeners for over 800 to towns such as Arras, used by the the famous water gardens, Les view and a half, climb the 307 steps picture-perfect rue de Metz – take a years and today your barque trip Germans when on leave. Hortillonnages. The city is also of the north tower. stroll down here at dusk and admire around the maze of rieux (canals) A permanent exhibition of works compact, giving it a village feel and When the cathedral was the wide array of building styles. Clockwise from top left: Close-up of reveals everything from fruit and by Otto Dix reveals the shocking ease of exploration. laser-cleaned in the 1990s, experts Down the hill is the Saint-Leu the stunning Thiepval Memorial to veg for sale to an array of ever- psychological effects of war, while Amiens was a Gallo-Roman city discovered that the western façade district. Abandoned until 35 years the Missing of the Somme; Amiens's changing art installations (thanks the visit concludes with a superb rejuvenated Saint-Leu quarter; made prosperous thanks to the was originally painted in multiple ago, this riverside quarter has been to the art & jardins – Hauts-de- display detailing how family and Newfoundland soldiers' bravery and advent of the woad industry in the colours – this sensory impression reborn and is a real hive of activity loss is marked at Beaumont-Hamel; France organisation). local life changed inexorably in the 13th century. This, and a lengthy is now recreated at sundown thanks to its bars and restaurants. colourful and creatively inspired post-war years. period of peace, meant that plenty during the summer, as well as at Not far from here, towards gardens at Amiens's Les Hortillonnages Somme offensive: Some 25km northwest of Péronne, the displays at the Historial in Péronne

A.CARRIER; SOMME TOURISME/F. LEONARDI/ GARRY SOMME TOURISME/F. A.CARRIER; of money was available to fund Christmas, via state-of-the-art sound the Saint-Pierre quarter, is the Lest we forget near La Boisselle, is the 21m deep © are expertly conceived and moving; the the cathedral’s construction. Local and light displays. The cathedral's surprising, unique 300-hectare Lochnagar crater (La Grande Mine) is a A major benefit of Amiens is that Lochnagar crater (called La Grande

IMAGES IMAGES chalk with flint and wood were used 800th anniversary will be marked network of canals on reclaimed 21m deep scar on the landscape it serves as a base for exploring Mine on road signs), formed

12 13 SOMME PAS-DE-CALAIS

Memorial (to the missing) and photographers, Louis and museum at Thiepval. Antoinette Thuillier, in the village An artful outlook at What makes these sites so special, of Vignacourt. aside from their aesthetic perfection Finally, go name-spotting at the and respectful homage, is that young remarkable Underground City of Pas-de-Calais volunteers from Canada and the UK, Naours, a network of hand-dug respectively, are on hand to recount caves in a limestone plateau that tales of the brave young men who served as a refuge for locals and were lost. livestock for centuries. Today’s generation of volunteers During the Great War, many off- are a credit to the Commonwealth duty troops from Australia, Britain War Graves Commission, whose and elsewhere visited and etched dedicated team maintains the their names and regiments into the memorials so beautifully. walls for posterity. Another obligatory stop is the Sadly, ongoing research shows astonishing collection of photos, that many were killed soon after. A discovered in an attic in 2010, of guided tour will reveal inspiring yet off-duty Allied soldiers taken by tragic tales.  local couple and keen amateur www.visit-somme.com

Eat and sleep... Head north to the uppermost behemoth Louvre-Lens that opened fringes of the French Western its doors in 2012 as part of a move From top: The Tour Perret, which was completed Front (about 90 minutes by car; to improve access to significant in 1952, is a real eye-catcher; the Underground alternatively, if you are arriving via artworks outside Paris. City of Naours is a network of hand-dug caves Calais it’s just an hour away) and The Louvre Paris lends it an you come to Béthune in the Pas- evolving display of 200 exceptional when 27 tonnes of explosives were de-Calais département. It became items in the Galerie du Temps, detonated by the British on July 1, something of a British town during masterpieces from 3,500 BC to the 1916, after tunnelling under German the war due to a steady flow of mid-19th century which can be fully lines. It is a stark example of the Commonwealth soldiers passing appreciated using the top-notch Somme Offensive’s brutality and through on leave and the regiments audiovisual guides in English. Major subsequent land scarification. quartered there – you can follow the temporary exhibitions fill one of the Follow the road along the Circuit British Remembrance Trail around other wings. du Souvenir (Remembrance Trail, town to trace their story. The illuminated glass museum symbolised by poppies on road signs) La Grand'Place was largely was built on the site of a former to Albert – ideal for a lunch stop – to destroyed in the German offensive mine and while the industry is the very interesting and passionately As far as prime hotel locations go, Hôtel Le Prieuré in central Amiens is hard to beat of 1918. Thankfully, its 14th-century long gone, it still features heavily curated Somme 1916 Museum. belfry survived and to this day in the town’s identity. In fact, the Here, you will be led along a WHERE TO STAY IN SOMME www.hotelbasiliquesomme.fr still dominates the square, which local football stadium was named From top: The Louvre-Lens has put 250m tunnel that depicts life in In the heart of Amiens, the excellent In Amiens, Big Ben is a fabulous was rebuilt in the 1920s and is now after Félix Bollaert, a director of Lens firmly on the cultural map; the trenches, with a collection of Hôtel Le Prieuré sits right next to modern eatery next to the home to some stunning examples Compagnie des Mines de Lens. one of the department's most iconic Remembrance memorials, Vimy fascinating artefacts. the cathedral and is a short walk cathedral, with menus changing of Art Deco style. There is a regional You can also visit the highest Ridge, honours Canadian soldiers Two Commonwealth war from the Saint-Leu district. weekly and relaxed, friendly service. celebration of all things Art Deco mining slag heaps in Europe, and memorials nearby that demand your www.hotel-prieure-amiens.com www.restaurant-bigben.fr every spring. Foodies should make climb one for a sublime view if you attention are the Newfoundland In the bustling Saint-Leu district a beeline for the La Prairie épicerie have the energy! Memorial at Beaumont-Hamel, WHERE TO EAT IN SOMME packed with bars and eateries, to marvel at its array of more than Twenty minutes from Lens is which commemorates the In the heart of Albert, Hôtel de Le Quai offers an excellent and 200 cheeses. attractive Arras, whose landmark SOMME TOURISME; F. LEONARDI F. SOMME TOURISME; Newfoundland Regiment’s la Basilique has a great-value varied selection of local dishes and RÉMI VIMONT LOUVRE-LENS; About half an hour from Béthune main squares, La Grand’Place and La © © sacrifices (86 per cent casualty menu (from €18) and a tasty array French classics with a modern twist. is Lens, firmly on the cultural Place des Héros, also called La Petite IMAGES IMAGES rate), and the 45m tall British of dishes on its lunch formule. restaurant-lequai.fr IMAGES map thanks to the art and history Place, are things of big-scale

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"In Arras, take the lift up the 75m high Clockwise from left: Take a descent into the Wellington Quarry in Arras, belfry, for spectacular views over the home to Kiwi soldiers during the Great café-lined squares below" War; a detail from the beautiful Ring of Remembrance, Notre-Dame de Lorette; the lively Place des Héros in Arras is perfect for lunch en terrasse; Béthune boasts eclectic buildings styles and has a British Remembrance trail to follow; Notre-Dame de Lorette is the world's largest French military cemetery

beauty. Take the lift up the 75m high and serves as a beautiful homage belfry that served as a watchtower, – via engraved names – of 579,606 Eat and sleep... for spectacular views over the troops from all sides who perished café-lined squares below – they in northern France. are especially lively at weekends. On the road to Arras, look out for Elsewhere, check out Vauban’s the biggest German war cemetery in impressive citadelle, built between France at Neuville-Saint-Vaast, and 1668 and 1672, and now home to note the black crosses and how the offices and houses. trees and bushes are deliberately left Round your visit off with a beer wild in line with German tradition. – brewing is big in these parts, and Arras was the only town in France Chez Marcel is a fantastic place for to occupy a frontline position for craft ales and cheese pairings. the entire duration of the Great War. Stop at the remarkable Wellington Remembrance in Pas-de-Calais Quarry, a museum that also serves One of the most iconic as a memorial to those who died in The Hôtel Louvre-Lens provides culture vultures with a sumptuous stay right next to the museum Remembrance monuments on the the Battle of Arras. Western Front is at Vimy Ridge, Here visitors are invited to don WHERE TO STAY IN PAS-DE-CALAIS from the main squares and opposite overlooking the Douai Plain near hard hats and descend in a lift for a Near Béthune in Saint-Venant, the the train station. Lens. Set in sprawling parkland, it annotated maps that reveal key tour of the quarry, named Wellington Belle-Époque Manoir de la Peylouse www.accorhotels.com pays tribute to the 11,285 Canadian movements and battles from the by the New Zealand sappers who is an extraordinarily stylish B&B with Expeditionary Force soldiers conflict. Much of the large-scale dug it. It's a unique opportunity to a remarkable history and literary WHERE TO EAT IN PAS-DE-CALAIS reported missing when the four photography was taken by soldiers in experience life in the quarry through past. Your charming host is Didier. Within walking distance of the divisions of the Canadian Corps battle, which lends the exhibits spine- the eyes of those who sheltered www.lapeylouse.fr Memorial 14-18 museum is the in the First Army fought three tingling authenticity. in it before bravely entering the In Lens, the splendid Hôtel characterful estaminet, A l'potée divisions of the German 6th Army. Nearby at Notre-Dame de Lorette battlefield on April 9, 1917. Outside is Louvre-Lens opened in December d’Léandre, serving up local classics A 15 minute drive away are three is a necropolis, created by the state the Memorial Wall where, every year, 2018 in a row of former miners' like carbonnade with pain d’épices at more vital Remembrance sites, in right after the war, whose cemetery a Dawn Ceremony is held at 6.30am, houses next to the museum. It is reasonable prices. www.alpotee.fr close proximity at and and ossuary hold the remains of more timed to coincide with the start of modern, chic and comfortable In Arras, La Cave des Saveurs Ablain-Saint-Nazaire. than 42,000 soldiers, while over the the battle. It serves as an opportune with an excellent restaurant. serves simple, well-cooked

YANNICK CADART; CDT PAS-DE-CALAIS; M. HARMEL; HOTEL LOUVRE-LENS; AITOR ORTIZ; AS FLAMENT AS ORTIZ; AITOR LOUVRE-LENS; M. HARMEL; HOTEL PAS-DE-CALAIS; CDT CADART; YANNICK In Souchez, the Memorial 14-18 road is the Ring of Remembrance. end point to a grand tour of France’s www.hotel-louvre-lens.com French classics in a typical cellar © is a four-room museum in black Architect Philippe Prost’s 328m Western Front.  In Arras, the high-quality Mercure on the main square.

IMAGES IMAGES concrete and glass featuring circular design was unveiled in 2014 www.visit-pas-de-calais.com Arras Centre Gare is a short walk www.lacavedessaveurs.fr

16 17 Plan your visit

Aisne Tourisme Pas-de-Calais Tourism Parc Foch Route de la Trésorerie Avenue du Maréchal Foch 62126 Wimille 02007 Laon Cedex +33 (03) 21 10 34 60 +33 (0)3 23 27 76 76 [email protected] [email protected] www.visit-pas-de-calais.com www.jaimelaisne.com www.randonner.fr

Meuse Tourism Somme Tourisme +33 (0)3 29 45 78 40 54 rue Saint Fuscien [email protected] 80000 Amiens www.meusetourism.com +33 (0)3 22 71 22 71 [email protected] www.visit-somme.com

MAP: MÉLISSA HOFBAUER COVER PHOTOS: THIERRY SUZAN, GUILLAUME RAMON, S CAMBON, SAMUEL CRAMPON, LOUVRE-LENS

Agence fmg Attracting visitors to France Concept, writing and design Agence FMG, part of France Media Group, 2020