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THE DREAMLAND

Captivating glimpses of the most diverse district UTTARA

Commissioned by DISTRICT ADMINISTRATION

Editing and Text DINESH MANEER THE DREAMLAND Captivating glimpses of the most diverse district UTTARA KANNADA

Commissioned by DISTRICT ADMINISTRATION Uttara Kannada

First Edition: 2018

Number of Pages: 124

Number of Copies: 1000

Published by DEPUTY COMMISSIONER Uttara Kannada 581301, ,

Design & Printed by FLOWERGRAFIC www.flowergrafic.com

© All Right Reserved No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form of or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system,without permission in writing from the publisher

Cover photo: Just another morning for the fishermen in Mavincurve on Sharavathi river - by Nagesh Onikeri Back cover photo: Snaking road through the jungle of - by Amoghvarsha MESSAGE

Nestled in beautiful scenic locales, Uttara Kannada is one of the most sought after tourist destination in Karnataka. The very first dynasty “Chutus of ” was started in this district and was the home of the Kadamba dynasty for over a century. The towards the east and towards the west has appended a lot of geographical features like rivers, waterfalls, hill stations, beaches and evergreen jungles. Apart from this cultural imprints of the Marathas, Portuguese and the Kadambas are still visible here. Historically, for the British, Karwar was the centre for pepper and fine muslin. The distinctive spices of the district and the locally grown commodities together makes one yearn for the delicacies the place has to offer.

The longest coast of Karnataka as well as one of the biggest districts in the state has made Uttara Kannada district a great tourist spot. Everyday scores of tourists visit the district for leisure, adventure, knowledge, amusement, pleasure and thrill. The rich heritage, diverse culture, picturesque locations, and eco-tourism makes an enthralling experience. As the saying goes “A picture speaks a thousand words”, this coffee table book portrays the different aspects of Uttara Kannada district through pictures. Each page of this book will immerse you with awe, wonder and surprise.

R V Deshpande Minister for Large and Medium Scale Industries, Infrastructure Development and District In-charge Minister, Uttara Kannada

19th February, 2018

PREFACE

It is a great pleasure to be able to bring out this coffee table book which portrays the diversity of the district. Uttara Kannada district has a wide variety of flora and fauna starting from the Great Indian Hornbill, Lion Tailed Macaque, to varieties of plants and evergreen forests. The district is also geographically vast with 12 talukas. Comprising of breathtaking beaches, evergreen western ghats, historically significant monuments and major places of worship - The district has something to offer for every type of visitor. The people of different communities in the district have a rich and vibrant culture which is unique in their own manner but come together as a common thread of the district. The food culture of the district is also something very unique and extremely interesting.

In the last one year we have undertaken some very interesting projetcs such as opening up scuba diving at and also at Karwar, starting para powergliding at Gokarna and Dr beach, opening 'Nelasiri - Products of Uttara Kannada' outlets at Karwar and Murudeshwara etc., to boost tourism.

This attempt at making a pictorial representation of the district through a coffee table book is a small attempt to portray the district through the of a camera shutter and hope that this venture is able to not only spread the diverse and intricate aspects of our district but also to attract tourists from across the country to see and experience our district.

I would like to acknowledge the hard work and efforts put in by Sri Chandrashekhar Naik, IAS, Chief Executive Officer, Zilla Panchayat and Sri Prasanna, KAS, Additional Deputy Commissioner in bringing out this book.

S S Nakul, IAS Deputy Commissioner, Uttara Kannada

19th February, 2018

INTRODUCTION

hen the birds start singing with the sound of a flowing stream in the background, and when the darkness retreats to make way for the sun's daily dance with the mist, the women of the house hurriedly make their W way to the cowshed to begin milking the livestock while the men gather together to go fishing.

Kids sit in front of the fire stove while their grandmother readies hot, buttered dosas for them. Their grandfather is already in the garden fetching flowers for his morning Pooja. As the sun rises, dosas are served with black, thick and fresh ghee. Everyone in the family gathers to partake in a delicious breakfast along with fresh milk .

As sun slowly beats down in all its majesty, the men return to work, the ladies start planning for lunch and the kids get ready to go to school. A simple and delicious lunch is prepared with fresh fish, , raw , yams and a variety of fresh plants along with fried dry chillies. This usually results in an afternoon siesta before every one returns to their daily tasks.

Evenings are filled with light-hearted chatter, lingering music and before an early dinner brings the day to a close. This is what a typical day in Uttara Kannada encompasses. The people here share an inseparable bond with the nature that surrounds them. In fact, this bond is prevalent in every cultural aspect, tradition and day-to-day activity of the people from Uttara Kannada.

When the ancient poet Pampa wrote in the 10th century, “Maridumbiyagi men kogileyagi puttuvudu nandanadol Banavasideshadol”, which translates to 'I wish to be born as a bee or a nightingale in the garden of Banavasi’ little did he know that it was going to ring true even a 1,000 years later. The district of Uttara Kannada is probably the most diverse district of Karnataka. This region embraces the magnificent Western Ghats, beaches, rivers, waterfalls, forests, wildlife, flora, fauna and a wide range of people and cultures. Nobel laureate Shree Rabindranath Tagore, who stayed in Karwar for three months, called the district the 'Kashmir of '.Such is the vibrant beauty of the nature found here. Hot and humid weather, wet , green forests, vivid cultures, discrete ethnic groups, warm hospitality, intricate handicrafts, rich folklore, delicious seafood and much more all come together as one in Uttara Kannada.

Tourism is booming in the district with a huge inflow of tourists both domestic and international. Activities such as pilgrimages, heritage tours, agricultural and rural tours, trekking, hiking, bird watching, photography and water sports are increasing exponentially.

Today, there is a huge demand for both sustainable tourism as well as eco-tourism. Uttara Kannada district is probably the most conducive district in the state when it comes to eco- tourism. Many major areas and forests have been declared as conservation areas by the State Government.

The Government along with many organisations is currently working together to implement the eco-tourism model and create awareness at the grassroots level. Extensive educational programs and events are also being carried out by the Government and other organisations to educate locals and tourists alike.

This book is an effort to showcase the heavenly beauty of the Uttara Kannada district while still highlighting its ecological and cultural diversity. Huge effort has been put in to collect a plethora of interesting facts and information about the district along with the best photos from some of the finest photographers the current generation has to offer. While it may not be prudent to solely regard this book as a comprehensive guide to tourism in the district, it surely will as a reference on how fascinating touring in this heavenly district can be.

8 NATURE Coastline . Islands . Forests Rivers . Waterfalls

s one of the largest districts in the state, more than 70% of Uttara Kannada is covered by forest while 10% of the district comprises of agricultural land. It has a coastline on the west and in between the coastal line and the Aeastern margins is the Western Ghats. The coastal line is home to most of the district's population. The major part of the district consists of uplands, which are partly made up of forests and partly cleared for agriculture, while the Sahyadrian interior is more densely forested.

The Western Ghat belt is 3-54 kilometres wide and over 110 kilometres in length and consists of semi-evergreen, moist, deciduous type of forests. The in semi-ever green type are Cane, Benate, Hebbalsu, Gulma. The general The sea beach of Karwar species in this moist, deciduous region are Teak, Sissum, Honne, Nandi, Mathi,Kindal, Holedasal, Toon, Burga, Jamba, Neval, and many more. is certainly a fit place in which to realise that the There are many important sanctuaries and reserve forests found in the district such as Reserve, Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary, , Lion Tailed Macaque Conservation Reserve, Hornbill beauty of nature is not Conservation Reserve, Shalmala Riparian Eco-system Conservation Reserve. a mirage of the imagination, The west flowing rivers Kalinadi, Bedthi, Aganashini, Sharavathi, , , Navgaddehalla, Hattikerihalla but reflects the joy of the and pass through the Western Ghats giving vent to hundreds of waterfalls in the district. This feature gives infinite and thus draws us Uttara Kannada the title“land of waterfalls”. The , where the river Aghanashini plunges 116 meters, to lose ourselves in it. , where the Bedti river drops 180 meters in two leaps, , where the river Sonda drops 74 - Rabindranath Tagore meters, and Lalguli and Mailmane, all converge into the river Kali. The originates in taluk flows through the Karwar taluk while the Gangavali (Bedthi) originates in the District and flows through and taluks. The Aghanashini river, which originates in Sirsi, flows through the Siddapur and taluks. On the other hand, the originates in the district and flows through , which in turn forms the famous .

The coastal line, which is 140 kilometres in length with estuaries, agricultural lands, small towns and bigger towns, runs from Majali to the end of Bhatkal connecting and . The taluks of Karwar, Ankola, Kumta, Honnavar and Bhatkal have long stretches of coastline which are densely populated and are very active in agriculture, fishing and small industries. Islands like Kurumgad, Netrani and Devabagh are popular tourist destinations and are centres for many water related activities such as scuba diving, snorkelling and dolphin spotting.

Waves crashing on to the rocks during a fiery sunset in Majali beach. Uttara Kannada’s upper coast line ends near Majali.

10 11 (Left) The small but beautiful paradise beach, Gokarna (Right) Kids enjoying the waves at Eco beach, Honnavar (Bottom) The black sand beach,Tilmati beach, Karwar

Uttara Kannada district has 140 Kms of coastal line Width of the coast ranges from 16 to 48 Kms from village Majali to village Gorte There are more than 20 beaches in the district Tilmati beach is one of the only two black sand beaches of India. The black color is due to the waves over centuries of time hitting the basaltic rocks

12 A heavenly sunset with striking colors in Kumta beach. The rocks play a role of bystander watching the sky

13 Fishing boats sailing in front of hills that are sloping to Arabian sea, Karwar

A calm evening at Om Beach, Gokarna clouds over Bada beach

14 Monsoon clouds and the powerful winds making the sea rough and alive

Gokarna beach is mentioned in the epic Ramayana Dolphins can be spotted near Devabagh beach and Om beach

15 (Top left) Nadibag beach, Ankola

(Top right) Kurumgad islands at a distance and the Devabag beach glowing

(Bottom) Crashing wave on a beautiful morning at Tagore beach, Karwar

(Overleaf) Honey beach getting its unique colors under a glorious sunset, Ankola

16 17 Fishing boats over Murudeshwara beach, Bhatkal 18 Colors of dawn falling on rocks in Om beach, Gokarna Monsoon clouds over Bada beach Colorful rocks and stones in Kudle beach 19 Glowing sea when looked from hills above paradise beach, Gokarna

Dusk colors in Tagore beach

A panoramic view of sun setting down on Karwar islands as viewed from fort

20 Moon setting over Headbunder beach, Kumta on a full moon day

21 Kayaking in Kali river on a fine morning The District has forests covering 80% of the total Geographical Area The total forest area is 8,14,455 hectares There are five types of forests evergreen, semi evergreen,moist deciduous, scrub and thorny, unwood forests The teak wood of Dandeli is one of the finest in the world Kali, Bedthi or Gangavali, Aghanashini, Sharavathi and Venkatapur are the major west flowing rivers is the major river that flows east and joins

22 ¸ÉÆQÌzÀÝgÉ AiÀiÁt gÉÆQÌzÀÝgÉ UÉÆÃPÀtð An ariel view of the amazing Yana rocks surrounded by lush green forests of Western Ghats if you have money go to Gokarna, if you have guts go to Yana - An old saying Gopi Jolly

23 Yana rocks are composed of solid black, crystalline limestone The two peaks in Yana Bhairaveshwara and Mohini, at 390 ft and 300 ft, respectively There are 59 other rock formations around Yana Yana region , being a biodiversity hotspot, Fern species belong to 17 genres and 15 families and the noteworthy species are - Cyatheagigantea, very rare to be found in Uttara Kannada Syntheri Rock is a 300 ft tall, massive limestone rock formed due to volcanic eruptions millions years ago Syntheri rocks are named after an English lady called Ms. Cinthera who is believed to have discovered this place

Aerial view of submerged land under Kali backwaters

Sharavathi river majestically passing through Western Ghats 24 Meandering Kali river through the majestic Western ghats viewed from Sykes point, Dandeli

25 Syntheri rocks near Dandeli (Above) A picturesque Kali river

Aghanashini is one of the few rivers in India which has no A golden sunset and silently flowing and no industries on its course river Kali amidst resting hills, Dandeli An area of 299.52 sq kms has been declared as the Aghanashini Lion- tailed Macaque Conservation Reserve in the Aghanashini river basin

26 27 River Kali has a catchment area of 4,188 sq.km Kali river is also called Sadashivagad river

Panoramic evergreen forests as seen from Karikan Parameshwari temple, Honnavar Supa is the biggest while other dams built across Kali river are , , Refreshingly beautiful colors of Kurumgad island Kaneri Dam, Tattihalla Dam, Bommanahalli Dam. River rafting near Dandeli in Kali river is a very popular sport

28 Beauty of Sunrise at Kalimata Mangrove Island, Karwar

Kurumgad island which looks like a tortoise, gets its name from its shape Though inhabited there is a Narasimha temple in the island which draws huge devotees mostly fishermen, once in a year Sonda rulers stationed an army unit here to protect the fort built on Sadashivagad Artefacts in Haigunda island, formed by Sharavathi river are said to dates back to Kadamba rule in 345 AD.

29 (Right) Magod falls formed by Bedthi, falls from a height of 200 mts in two steps

(Bottom Right) Unchalli waterfalls

Unchalli falls also called as Lushington falls is named for J. D. Lushington, a District Collector for the British Government, who discovered the falls in 1845 There are more than 100 waterfalls in Uttara Kannada of which 20 are highly popular among tourists and trekkers

30 “Moonbows are an extremely rare kind of Rainbows that happen on full moon nights. These are formed under moonlight unlike the conventional rainbows which are formed in sunlight. There are only 5 locations in the entire world where moonbows are visible. The moonbow at Unchalli waterfalls near Sirsi is the first ever documentation of a moonbow from . This image is the first and only image of its kind showcasing this nocturnal wonder from Asia."

Photo and text Sriharsha Ganjam

31 ºÀ¹j£À L¹j ¸ÀÆgÉUÉÆArgÀĪÀ GvÀÛgÀ PÀ£ÀßqÀ f¯ÉèAiÀÄ°è ºÀ®ªÉÇAzÀÄ Uttara Kannada, the district where green wealth is all over, d®¥ÁvÀUÀ¼À £ÀÈvÀåPÀ¯ÉAiÀÄ£ÀÄß ¸À«AiÀÄĪÀÅzÉà MAzÀÄ ¸Ë¨sÁUÀå enjoying the dancing beauty of waterfalls is a visual treat - qÁ. ©.J¸ï. ¸À£À¢, ¥ÀA¥À ¥Àæ±À¹Û ¥ÀÅgÀ¸ÀÌøvÀgÀÄ - Dr. B S Sanadi, Pampa awardee

Vibhuti falls flows with an amazing power display, A small stream flowing in to a colourful redstone pond in Kumta Mukthi hole waterfalls glowing under evening sun in Honnavar through limestones from which it gets its name

32 A tourist enjoying a refreshing swim in Satoddi falls on a blissfull morning

33 Heavenly beauty of Burude falls, Siddapur

34 Morning light piercing through Shivaganga falls, Sirsi

35 MAzÀÄ §¢ ¸ÀºÁå¢ææ, MAzÀÄ §¢ PÀqÀ®Ä £ÀqÀÄ ªÀÄzsÀåzÀ°è CqÀPÉ vÉAUÀÄUÀ¼À ªÀÄqÀ®Ä ¹jUÀ£ÀßqÀzÀ ZÀ¥ÀàgÀªÉ £À£Àß f¯Éè E°èAiÉÄà E£ÉÆߪÉÄä ºÀÄlÄ֪ɣÀÄ £À¯Éè - ¢£ÀPÀgÀ zÉøÁ¬Ä, ¥ÀæSÁåvÀ PÀ« On one side Sahyadri, and on other side sea and in between lies areca and farms such a rich place is my district I wish to born again here my love - Dinakar Desai, popular poet

A small stream in Maneer, calmly flowing down between moss covered rocks

36 Glorious Jogfalls, dropping ferociously during monsoon which otherwise is a silent beauty during all other seasons

37 The Uttara Kannada District has four major estuaries viz. Kali, Gangavali, Aghanashini, and Sharavathi There are six edible clams, viz. Anadara granosa, Meretrix casta, Meretrix meretrix, Paphia malabarica, Polymesoda erosa, Villorita cyprinoides and some oysters present in all the estuaries of Uttara Kannada district

Different elements and colours of Aghanashini river in the morning

38 On a rainy day, a lone fishermen boat sailing across river Aghanashini where it takes a steep curve

Kali backwater near Satoddi falls during late evening

39 Fishing boats over Arabian sea near Aghanashini river estuary

Moonrise over Aghanashini estuary, Kumta Calm waters are rippled by a sand boat breaking an early morning silence in the valley

40 The Aghanashini river turns to color red during monsoon due to eroded soil

41 As per Buchanan's " Journey from Madras through the countries of , Canara and Malabar " about Netrani Island recorded in 1801 Some of the water life seen around Netrani island

Netrani was called pigeon island by Europeans as large number of pigeons found in the caves of island Local people collected coral and limestone The local fishermen and traders used to worship jataga ( a stone representing god) in the island

Paragliding at Tagore beach Scuba diving near Netrani island

42 Powered paragliding over Arabian sea in Karwar

43 Kayaking tourists in Kali river

44 Water sports are very popular in Uttara Kannada district Few of the water sports available in Uttara Kannada are Para Sailing, Snorkeling, Kayaking, Boat Ride, Water Scooter, Aqua Glide, Jet skiing, scuba diving, river rafting White River rafting in Kali river is one of the best in India , covering 9.5 kms in 3 hrs River rafting difficulty expressed in rapids. Dandeli river rafting has many grade 2-3 rapids and there are couple of grade 4 rapids as well which gives the most thrilling experience All major beaches are manned by trained lifeguards to protect tourists

Most thrilling section of a rafting session in Kali river, Dandeli

An excited tourist crashing on the waves in Murudeshwara A group of college students enjoying a water sport session in Murudeshwara

45 A black panther peaking through the woods in Dandeli Praveen Siddannavar 46 NATURE Flora . Fauna.

he three different types of topology of the Uttara Kannada district, namely the coast, the Western Ghats and the uplands are the main reasons behind its incredibly diverse ecosystem. There are thousands of species of T flora all over the district and experts discover new species even to this day! The remarkable range of climate and topography has made the district home to a great variety of . On the coast, the Arabian Sea is deep and consists of an incredible variety of marine animals. Rivers and estuaries form an important The amphibian diversity part of this unique ecosystem by harbouring diverse and unique species of flora and fauna. Sacred groves (Kattalekan) which are found in the district consist of different varieties of flora and fauna and form an important bridge between associated with the biological systems and human traditions. Myristica swamps of There are 36 recognised mammals which includes , elephants, black panthers and the endangered lion-tailed southern Siddapur, macaques. Dolphins and porpoises visit the district's coast every day. An area of 299.52 sq kms has been declared as the hardly exceeding on sq. km, Aghanashini Lion-Tailed Macaque Conservation Reserve in the district. in area is almost equal to the The bird fauna is highly rich for the size of the district with 419 taxa of birds. Out of 34 types of birds endemic to diversity (43 species) recorded Malabar region (western ghats–west coast) Uttara Kannada has all 34 types. The Dandeli forests alone are home to from the entire State of four types of hornbills including The Great Indian hornbill, Daniels et el. Circa 1993, it was estimated that the district has 1,741 recorded types of flowering plants, a good number of which are endemic to the Western Ghats. , covering over There are 45 types of zooplankton species prevalent in the coast, while there are 14 types of bivalves (clams) found in three lakh sq. km in area Aghanashini river estuary. Scientists and ecology experts feel that a great effort is required to find out the remaining - Prof. Subash Chandran M.D. types of bio-diversity which shows just how rich the district is. Trap Camera recording: A black panther and leopards in Dandeli. As many as 100 trap cameras are installed in the forests Shridhar Bhat Hebbarakantha Chevrotains, also known as mouse deer are the smallest deer family that can be seen in India. They are found in . Western Ghats of India has a very healthy population of this species. They are solitary or live in pairs. They give birth to only a single young. This species of deer doesn't have antlers and horns. Their legs are short and thin, which helps in running and foraging through the dense forests

There are 38 listed mammals in Uttara Kannada There are 24 listed and 11 amphibians 5 species Hornbills, Black Panther, King , Olive Ridley turtle and Lion Tailed Macaque (LTM) are the flagship animals of Uttara Kannada Black panther is a melanisitc and the color black is the result of excess of melanin Black panther and leopards can mate and dominant gene decides the cub is black panther or normal leopard Anashi tiger reserve is renamed as in 2015

48 Tiger Cub

49 A playful Malbar giant squirrel hopping on trees. Lion Tailed Macaque They play a substantial role in shaping the ecosystem of its habitat by engaging in seed dispersal Lion Tailed Macaque is one of the smallest and most endangered of the macaque species LTM or Lion Tailed Macaque gets its name from its distinctive silver-gray mane and a lion-like tail (tail with a tuft of fur at the end) LTM spend most of their lives on tree tops , only coming down sometimes for food (Over leaf) Kali Tiger Reserve, which is called Around 350-400 Lion-Tailed Macaques live in zoos, and less than 2,500 live in the wild as Leopard paradise, attracts many researchers, wildlife enthusiasts and tourists LTMs are diurnal, which means that they are active during the daylight hours

50 51 A massive mugger crocodile basking under the sun

52 Olive Ridley turtles hatchling crawling towards the sea. Getting their name from the Olive Green coloured shell, a mother can lay about 30 to 168 eggs at a time!

53 Indian paradise flycatcher (female)

Indian paradise flycatchers found plenty in Uttara Kannada. Black-naped monarch are small birds but they have a strking blue color. These cute little birds are very active and hard to photograph,. Also the male and female are very different in appearance The male bird has a long tail and it is a treat to watch them when flying

54 Blue Capped Rock Thrush (Male) Tickell's blue flycatcher showing its spectrum of colors on a beautiful morning . The metallic song of the bird includes a series of clicks followed by five or six notes that end abruptly

Malabar Trojan found only in the forests of India and , is famous for their Grey-fronted Green-pigeon (Pompadour Green-pigeon) Treron (pompadora) affinis endemic to Western Ghats bright plumage(especially males) with a bright red chest/abdomen with a white ring like separation from the black head. 55 Tickell's blue flycatcher

Orange Minivet (Male) Scarlet Minivet come in popping red and oranges and are very sharp, active birds Sudheendra Bhat Blue Eared Kingfisher is not so common Kingfisher Oriental dwarf kingfisher (Juvenile) inhabits densely shaded forests and hunts in small fresh (Ceyx erithaca), also known as the black-backed kingfisher or water streams. Their nest is a metre long tunnel/burrow in three-toed kingfisher. Although it is one of the smallest of the the bank(wall) of a forest stream where about five to kingfishers found here, it is the most colourful of all. They prefer seven eggs are laid small streams in densely shaded forests and tough to spot

The 25 species of bats from the district account for 62.5% of the total number of batspecies recorded from the Karnataka region Indian Hanging Parrot - True parrot of India It’s an active and acrobatic bird that gets its name from its ability to There are 419 bird varieties found in Uttara Kannada where as entire state has 375 and hang in an upside down posture while feeding.These are the only group of Maharashtra hass 540 birds in the world which can sleep upside down. They feed on seeds, Attiveri bird sactuary in attracts many bird lovers and photographers fruits and nectar.

56 Kaushik Mukherjee, IAS Great Indian Hornbill

57 Great Indian Hornbill can leave anyone awestruck ! The sound produced by wings when flying, can be heard from a distance

Hornbills are huge birds measuring up to 95-130 cm (37-51 IN) long, with a 152 cm (60 IN) wingspan Hornbills are called “farmers of forest” as they drop the seeds of the fruits they eat as they go, dispersing them over a wide area In 2011, has constituted “Hornbill Conservation Reserve” in Dandeli and Virnoli ranges When Hornbills decide to make family, both male and female search for a hollow deep in the tree trunk. The female enters the hollow seals the opening but leaves a small hole just enough for its beak The female Hornbill remains inside the nest for 40 days while the male goes in search of food and feeds the female Puttaraju Kaiga

58 Malabar Grey Hornbill (Ocyceros griseus) is a hornbill endemic to the Western Ghats Malabar Pied Hornill's habitat is evergreen and moist deciduous forests Sudheendra Bhat , State bird of Karnataka Draco or known as flying can glide using their wing like membranes to 60 meters loosing only 10 meter in height which is quite astonishing

59 Malabar Pit Viper - Green Morph

These are venomous endemic to Western Ghats and found in plenty in Uttara Kannada which are called as Happate Haavu or Male Mandala haavu in local language . There are four known color morphs of these pit vipers green, , and and makes them difficult to notice in the forests. These colors are a strategy used for survival advantage as it confuses predators. They feed on The Ceylon Cat (Boiga ceylonesis) with its striking eyes popped out , , and sometime on other snakes. They are characterized by the presence of a triangular head and heat-sensing pit organs located between the eye and the nostril on either side of the head. The pits are openings to a pair of very sensitive infrared detecting organs, which helps them to find the small warm-blooded prey on which they feed.

Kathalekan called as sacred groves found in many areas in Western Ghat belt of Uttara Kannda Sacred groves host even rarer endemic and endangered species called ‘Relic’ species more or less absent outside these Kans Wild pepper (Piper nigrum) which was one of the primary export of India from colonial era once available only in Kans or sacred groves. Kans also have a rich variety of herbs used in native medicine

Malabar pitviper green morph

60 Brown Vine Snake () Green Vine Snake

Malabar Pit Viper King Cobra

61 (Top left) Blue-eyed bush (Raorchestes luteolus) gets their name due to bright blue ring running around their eyes. The colouration of the male blue-eyed bush frog becomes more yellow and vivid during the breeding season. The female blue-eyed bush frog is likely to be slightly larger than the male

(Top right) Malabar gliding frog or Malabar flying frog is a Rhacophorid tree frog species found in the Western Ghats of India

(Bottom) Dancing Frogs (Micrixalus sps)

62 Wild Orchid Foxtail Orchid Rhynchostylus retusa (L) Blume. Beautiful epiphytic Orchid that Gloriosa superba (Gouri Hoovu) produce inflorescence consisting hundred's of small flowers. It's an integral part of the Tribals of Uttarakannada. It is called as “Seete Dande” in Kannada and Foxtail Orchid in English due to its shape of the inflorescence

Western Ghats which are older than Himalayas, have 700 known medicinal plants Devimane consisting of West coast semi-evergreen forest is one of the 13 Medicinal Plants Conservation Areas (MPCA) of Karnataka A total of 98 medicinal preparations, involving 69 species of plants, used by the of Uttara Kannada 39 medicinal plants belonging to 30 plant families to cure 21 different veterinary related diseases are in (Top left) Garcinia-Cambogia practice in the tribes of Uttara Kannada (Top centre) Kokum (Top right) Mushrooms Orange Fungi Cup (Cookeina Tricholoma) (Bottom left) Forest Fire (Bottom right) Tulsi

63 The 10 feet high Nandi statue found in Madhukeshwara temple of Banavasi, Sirsi

64 HERITAGE Temples. Monuments. Inscriptions

he Madhukeshwara temple of Banavasi, a city which is called the oldest town of the state Karnataka, and the Mahabaleshwara temple of Gokarna, which was built in the 4th century, are still standing today as a T testament to the rich heritage found in the Uttara Kannada district. The Kadambas of Banavasi were the first indigenous dynasty to use Kannada at administrative level.

The coast finds a mention in the mythological story of (sixth incarnation of God )which is supposed to have taken place during Tretha Yuga. There is a mention of Gokarna in the Ramayana, the great epic of of India. Ravana, the demon king, was granted the Atma Linga by Lord on the condition that once placed on the ground, he wouldn't be able to move it again.

Fearing a rise in his strength, Lord Vishnu and Lord Ganapathi tricked him to place the Atma Linga on the ground near Gokarna. Furious, Ravana tried to pull out the linga which broke and threw small pieces of it everywhere which eventually gave rise to many temples, namely Shejeshwara, Murdeshwara, Gunavanthe, Dhareshwara are in the Uttara Kannada district. Today Gokarna and Murdeshwara are highly popular pilgrimage places of Karnataka and the neighbouring states.

In one of the inscription, found in the Madukeshwara temple of Banavasi, is professed to belong to Simhunna Bupa of Yudhishtira's family, which dates back to 2935 B.C. Earliest recorded history states that in the year 242 B.C, Maurya emperor Ashoka sent to Vanivasi or Banavasi. Greco-Roman writer Ptolemy in the 2nd century A.D and Persian scholar Alberuni have described Banavasi in their writings. The Kadamba dynasty, the earliest native kingdom to rule in modern day Karnataka, lived in Banavasi of Uttara Kannada between the 3rd and the 6th century. The Kadambas of Banavasi region were part of many strong kingdoms and became the sole witness to the rise and fall of many kings and dynasties.

During the colonial era, the “Queen of Pepper”, Rani Channa Bhairadevi was the first female ruler of the district. After a short rule under the Bombay government the district was included under the Mysore government. Today Uttara Kannada consists of people belonging to , , and . Then there are sub-communities under each religion living together in harmony, which has led to the evolution of a unique lifestyle interms of culture, customs, tradition and food.

Today the temples at Banavasi, Gokarna, Murdeshwara, Dhareshwara and Yana are of both religious and historical importance. The Jain Basadis at , which are surrounded by dense forests, and the Basadis at Bhatkal, are visited by thousands of tourists and history enthusiasts. The fairly sizeable number of churches and mosques found there are further proof of the religious diversity and tolerance in the district. The forts at Mirjan, Sonda, Sadashivagad and are recognised by the ASI and are major tourist attractions of the district. Apart from these, there are many old, small towns, streets and old houses which are visited by history buffs from all over from the country.

Banavasi is the one of the ancient cities of India It is said that Mayura Sharma, the first king of Kadambas built the temple but it had gone under many changes under later dynasties Greek geographer Ptolemy's (1st century C.E), Huen Tsang, the Chinese monk and Alberuni, the Arab scholar all have mentioned Banavasi in their writings The mantapa and stone cot which are monolithic carvings, are the contributions of Sonda rulers Kadambothsav, the annual cultural festival organised by the Karnataka State Government at Banavasi during the month of December The current day Banavasi is also popular for its fruits apart from being a well known tourist spot .

Stone cot carved out of a single stone found in Banvasi

66 The ancient Banavasi temple , Sirsi

67 (Above) The monument where it is written as Union Indian Territory is iconinc to Om beach (Right) Packed narrow streets of Gokarna with temple of Madhukeshwara in the background

Is of such repute for its Sanctity and Meritoriousness of a Pilgrimage hither, that all sorts of Idolaters, from the remotest parts of India, come in sholes… and we found so many that the Streets were troublesome to crowd through." -John Fryer On Gokarna, an Englishman who travelled from Goa to Gokarna between 1672 and 1681

68 Different views of Gokarna streets

69 Gopi Jolly

Fort of Mirjan is of very much historical importance for everyone especially students (Top) Fort of Mirjan in the monsoon rain

Who built Mirjan fort is a debated topic but this port was an important port for overseas trade during 16th century and later Mirjan fort is spread over 11.8 acres and is a very popular tourist attraction Sonda chiefs who were branch of kings, built Sonda fort

70 Beautiful view of the Mirjan fort with the areca plantation and picturesque Western Ghats in the background

71 Sykes Point, , Dandeli

72 A train tunnel passing through the hills in Castle rock, Joida

73 (Left) Tourists walking on mornings in Murudeshwara beach (Right) Temples of Murudeshwara with the rising sun in the backdrop (Overleaf) Murudeshwara beach on a calm and delightful evening

As per mythology Murudeshwara was contemporary to Gokarna The Shiva statue is 37 M tall and the Rajagopura is 72 M high Murudeshwara is also popular for its beaches and water sports activities such as jet skiing, parasailing and scuba diving

74 75 Inside view of Marikamba temple, Sirsi

Sahasralinga, where the lingas are carved on the rocks of Shalmala river Inside the Yana cave

With a history of 1500 year old, the temple has a very unusual standing Ganesha idol Kavi art which is found on the walls of Marikamba temple, is a near extinct form of art where top player of plaster dyed with red color, etched away to show the white layer Colorful temple of Marikamba, Sirsi

76 The Bhyraveshwara shikhara, nature’s wonder in the midst of dense forest in Yana , Kumta

77 (Top left) A snake detail found on one of the Basadis of Gerusoppa (Right) Chaturmukha basadi, Gerusoppa, which is an architectural marvel with all its sides open (Bottom right) The Snake temple at Gerusoppa near Basadi area (Over leaf) Ruins of basadis in Gerusoppa. Honnavar

Gerusoppa was capital of Jain Kings from 1401 AC to 1601 AC During this time Gerusoppa was famous for trade and commerce Honnavar was a harbour for internal trade and Bhatkal was for intercontinental trade Previously Gerusoppa is known as Haive Being a center for art and music, Haduvalli of Bhatkal once called as 'Sangeethapura' The Jain temples of Chandranath basadi and Parshwanath basadi in Bhatkal are ancient structures that have stood the ravages of time There are more than 10 ASI recognised temples in Bhatkal The popular mosques in Bhatkal are Jamia Masjid, Khalifa Masjid and Noor Masjid. St. Francis Xavier Church in Chandavar, is quite a large Catholic church built in 1678 during the reign of the Nayak dynasty. It has gone under many restorations later

78 79 An interior of a typical house found in Uttara Kannada Quran museum in Bhatkal

An old window found in a house near Kumta Jumma Masjid amidst Bhatkal township

80 Playful children passing by a beautiful traditional house in Bhatkal street

81 NH17, when viewed from Sadashivagad fort

Rock garden in Karwar show us the culture of Uttara Kannada through beautifully made

During freedom struggle, “ movement” happened in Ankola which gave the name “Bardoli of Karnataka” Karwar which is one of the finest harbour even today, had sea with Arabs in the ancient days Uttara Kannada district was initially under and subsequently came under Till 1956 the district was in Maharashtra state, which later merged into

Jungle Lodges Resort in Sadashivagad fort, Karwar

82 Different views from Sadashivagad fort

83 Kaiga Generating Station in total harmony with nature INS Chapal Warship Museum in Tagore beach

INS Kadamba or Seabird in Karwar is third largest naval base of India INS Kadamba in Karwar, India's first naval base with a port controlled exclusively by the Navy The expansion of Project Seabird Phase II-A, IIB , which will be completed by 2020, will make INS Kadamba the largest naval base in India India’s only aircraft carrier whose home base is INS Kadamba (Project Seabird), Karwar

84 Deputy Commissioner’s Office in Karwar Front view of Deputy Commissioner’s House, Karwar Inside view of DC House in Karwar

The Deputy Commissioner’s bunglow at Karwar was built in 1865 and finds a mention in Bombay Gazetteer, 1882 that British government spent £995 ( Rs 9950 ) to build this laterite stone bunglow with three large rooms, two dressing rooms and three bath rooms The Deputy Commissioner’s bunglow was occupied by Satyendranath Tagore (brother of Rabindranath Tagore) who was the first Indian ICS officer from 1882 to 1884

Nobel awardee Rabindranath Tagore stayed in the Deputy Commissioner’s bunglow in the year 1884 and composed ‘Prakriti Pratishodh’ on the banks of Kali beaches of Karwar. Hence the beach is aptly named ‘Rabindranath Tagore beach’. Karwar also is fondly mentioned in his memoirs “my reminiscences”

Panoramic view of Karwar city from DC House

85 Fire-walking ritual during a Bandi Habba, which is about worshiping Earth as god.

86 CULTURE Festivals. Folklore. Food

he sweet aroma of Jaggery, the sound of traditional mortar and pestle , continuous chatter of relatives and loud playful children are the signs of a festival in Uttara Kannada house. There are hundreds of festivals in a T year. New Year starts with Sankranthi where everyone exchange Sankranthi yellu and jaggery. Mahashivaratri which is the festival of Lord Shiva sees maximum pilgrimage in flow from neighbouring states. During sapthami, in the month of February and March, many old temples celebrate Teru (Car festival) in the whole district. Sirsi Marikamba fair is one of the largest fairs of Karnataka. Suggi, celebrated during Holi is the most important festival of tribal communities such as Halakki, Marathi, Kunubi and . is an important festival, which is the new year starts as well for many communities. Men from these communities walk kilometres to visit different houses in different villages and perform their traditional dance. Come April and May, it is the season of Bandi Habba, a folk festival of farmers to seek blessings of village deities before the big sowing months during monsoon. In Uttara Kannda, Different communities take part in this and celebrate together with harmony. In the monsoon months, June and July, everyone gets busy with farming activity. Then comes variety of festivals such as Nagapanchami, Bhoomi Hunnime, we grew in an environment , Ganesha Chaturthi, Eid, Ramazan, Tulsi Pooja and many more. After September the where there is more common festivals such as Dasara, Deepavali, Moharrum, are celebrated in a great variety of traditions and importance to tradition, customs that are unique to Uttara Kannada . religion and culture Uttara Kannada has amazing set of ethnic groups such as Halakki, Hasala, Namadhari,Navayat, Siddi, Gonda ,Mukri,

- Ananth Nag, Actor Saraswatha, Patagar, Bhajantri, Gauli, Kunabi and many more. Many groups lived here from ages which led to great variety in folklore. There are many folk dance and music forms such as Suggikunitha, Hunter Dance ( Bedaravesha) , from “Nanna Tamma Shankara” Hulivesha, Siddi dance, Fishermen songs, Gonda dance, Soabane hadu, Halakki folk songs are famous and traditional. There is a Tibetian settlement in Mundgod, spread over 4000 acres, established in 1966 which is one more feather in the cap for the diversified district.

Yakshagana which is a traditional theatre form widely seen and very popular in the district. It has its own style in the departments of costume, music, dialogue, make-up, dance style. Yakshagana is considered as Karnataka’s one of the most popular theatre form and even today in the age of internet and televisions it garners its own audience. There are many literature giants born in this district who made the whole district proud with their literature. There are many national level Indian classical music artists who are born and brought up in Uttara Kannada and most of them are living in the district as well. Many legendary theatre personalities, film actors are born here which is a feather in the cap for the district.

On top of all these there are many private, government organised events such as Utsava, Kadamba Utsava, Kumta Habba, Sharavathi Utsava, Scuba Festival and many more held annually which are attended by a huge crowd coming from all parts of Karnataka. These events are full of traditional dance and music, folk dance forms, classical music and modern day dance-music performed by popular artists of the country.

Food of Uttara Kannada is very distinct in nature when compared to rest of Karnataka. In coastal areas which are the most populated areas, seafood is highly popular while there are huge number of vegetarian people as well. Some times food habits change with different communities but being the common main diet. Banana buns, Kotte , Neer dose, Uppittu are the main breakfast items while for lunch and dinner along with rice fish curry, vegetable huli, appe huli, tambuli are the popular choices. The special festival sweet dishes are prepared mainly using Jaggery rather than . Main drink is tea and often accompanied by mouth watering Happalas, Bonda, Oggarane avalakki.

The main tribes of the district are Siddi, Kunabi, Halakki, Gonda and Gouli Halakki tribes call themselves as direct descendents of Hindu God Shiva Siddis are said to have been brought by the Portuguese from South East Kunabi tribes said to have migrated from Goa region Goulis are nomadic tribes who migrated from Maharashtra (Overleaf) Gokarna temple during Lakshadeepotsava, which happens on karthika Gondas live mainly in the forest of Bhatkal taluk fullmoon day, where the devotees cover the entire It is said to have more than 50 tribal and sub communities living in Uttara Kannada district temple with aartis (oil lamps)

88 89 Countless long necklaces that a Halakki woman wears Colorful Suggi dancer

90 Every year a unique performance is given on the final day of Suggi

91 Colorful Suggi dance performed during Suggi festival in the month of March Traditional folk dance being performed by Siddi tribe

Traditional folk dance being performed by Kunubi tribe Gaja nrutya of Gauliga community

92 Halakki tribal’s suggi dance is the most colourful and even today it is celebrated with lot of pride and dedication During suggi tribal men walk more than 30 Kilometers per day for 5 days dancing at every house they visit Gauli tribe’s dance that is performed in Dasara is called Gajanrutya (dance of elephants) The other tribes of the district such as Kunubi, Siddi, Gonda also have a distinct style of folk dances and music Sirsi Marikamba fair , Chennabasaveshwara fair, Shivaratri fair of Gokarna, Bandi festivals, Car festivals are famous in Uttara Kannada Many of the fairs symbolically celebrates the surrounded nature and the customs found in those fairs are deeply associated with nature gods

Hoovina makkalu (children of flowers at Hegde fair) The colorful cart ready to be pulled by thousands of devotees

93 (Top right) Colorful night with sparkling lights and fun filled amusement during Sirsi Marikamba fair (Bottom centre) An artist performing a popular folk dance Byadaravesha (hunter dance) (Bottom right) A Kusti match in progress in Siddapur Kondli fair (Top left) Karavali Utsav (Bottom) Karavali Beach Marathon organised on second sunday of December is the only beach marathon in Karnataka

94 A feast festival happening in St. Francis Xavier church, Chandavar

95 Talamaddale, another form of yakshagana happening in the village Hegde

Fully ready Yakshagana performer

Yakshagana is a popular theatre form that originated in Uttara kannada and districts There are two types of Yakshagana “Tenkutittu” and “Badagutittu” in Uttara Kannada. “Tenkutittu” is practiced a lot There are many legendary Yakshagana artists who are from Uttara Kannada Yakshagana like in olden days, runs all night even today in many places There are hundreds of artists who are making a living out of Yakshagana Apart from this there are other variations such as Talamaddale, Yakshagana puppetry

A Harake aata (Yakshagana theatre) in progress in Bada village

96 All we need are four passionate people to set a Yakshagana performance in no time. Stage will be set with four bamboo sticks and a torn rug! - Jayanth Kaykini, from “ Bogaseyalli Male”

97 Genasle, very popular sweet made of jaggery and rice flour cooked in wild cinnamon leaves Kotte idli, idli cooked in the mold of jackfruit leaves

A simple GSB lunch prepared in Kumta car festival Misalbaji, is one of the popular breakfast that is found in local hotels of Uttara Kannada

98 Tambuli - Flavored curd or buttermilk which is part of everyday meal of the most in Uttara Kannada Todedevu - Rice batter with sugar cane juice, then baked crisp on a upside down earthen pot

Food of Uttara is closely associated with nature and its four seasons Coconut, rice, fish are the main food of Uttara Kannada people Fish, prawns, crabs, clams, tender leaves, roots, seeds, nuts, fruits and raw fruits which are available naturally are used extensively for cooking in the district Jaggery, ghee, butter, butter milk are also are an important ingredients used in everyday cooking Aromatic Appemidi, a wild mango variety available only in the Aghanashini river basin is used for making mouth watering pickle

Patrode, a popular dish cooked by stuffing spicy rice mix between colocasia leaves grown in the yard

99 A simple fish lunch Pomfret

Seashells Prawn buttergarlic

100 Silver fish King fish

Squid sukka (fry)

101 " The land may be divided in to rice land and garden ground" Francis Buchanan, 1801 A family of farmers busy with their farming activity

102 PEOPLE Professions . Ethnic groups. Lifestyle

griculture is the main occupation of people of Uttara Kannada with paddy being the main crop. The other primary crops are , cotton, ground nut and jowar. The main horticulture produce includes A coconut, areca, , , mango, pepper and . Agriculture is also one of the main professions of the district where the production of honey amounts to10,000 kg to 14,000 kg. Fishing also plays an important part in the district's economy. There are 14 minor ports in the district and there are 6 fishing centres. Edible bivalves (clams and oysters)contribute to the livelihood of many people here. Apart from these there are many traditional professions such as handicrafts, sandalwood carving, boat making, pottery and many more.

There are many industries dealing with the production of paper, textiles, rice, rubber etc. The Dandeli Paper Mill is one of the largest players in the domestic paper industry of the country. The cashew processing units are also major industries of the district and export to many countries. The Gerusoppa, Kadra, Supa, Kodsalli and I used to climb Areca trees. Ambikanagar hydro-electric power plants and Kaiga atomic power plant provides more than 50% of the electricity for So I got the best exercise the entire state. for my legs to train in The district also boasts rich diversity in culture and languages. The population is predominantly Hindu, but people of Yakshagana Navayat descent, and Christians also form an important part of the total population living together in harmony. Kannada, Konkani and are among the main languages of the district while there are many other - Chittani Ramachandra Hegde languages also in use such as Marathi and Tulu. This diverse nature has led to the growth of a unique lifestyle from “Namma Chittani” throughout the district. Agriculturists and pastoralists colonized this region between 1000 BC and 300 AD (Bhat, 1979) Today agriculture is the lifeline of about 75% of the people of Uttara Kannada Paddy, legumes and sugarcane are important agricultural crops of the district. There are more than 40 traditional varieties grown in the district Banana is also widely cultiviated and the varieties are Boodibale, Chipsbale, Currybale (Anbale), Karibale, Mitka, Mysore mitka, Nenibale, Rasabale, Pachebale, Sakkarebale Arecanut is cultivated in nearly 10,000 ha. Off land and the other cash crops of the district are cashew, coconut, pepper and cardamom Apiculture is also one of the important professions of the district producing nearly 10,000 to 14,000 Kgs of honey Kagga rice , a unique variety of rice grown in tidal wetlands of Aghanashini estuaries Kumta onion which is sweet , used for raw consumption is very popular and grown only in Kumta Gokarna green chilly is one of its kind which is used to make spicy dry chillies (Sandige) for storage

Nelasiri outlet which sell products that are unique to Uttara Kannada district

104 Local fishermen returning in the morning to river Gangavali where they have put nets previous night

105 Fishing boats have arrived and people gathered to collect fish in Murdeshwara beach

Varieties of fish and prawns

106 A fishermen throwing his net in Venkatapura river

A fisherman family in the river Sharavathi

The district has 14 minor ports, with 6 fishing and 16 main fishing centers utilizing its 140 Kms of coastline Major available fish in Uttar Kannada Coast are Indian Oil Sardine, Flat fish, Caranx fish(Kala Bangada), Carangidae (Bangada) Decapods, Prawns, Non penaeid prawns, Other Crustacian Crabs, Croakers, Anchovies, Clupeids, Seer Fish, Scombridae fish(Tuna like Fish) Cephalopods (Squid & Cuttle fish, ), Cat fish, Mullets & Elasmobrancb.es (Shark, Rays & Skates) Seafood is one of the major food of Uttara Kannada

107 Even today there are many families who earn their daily bread by transporting people across rivers and sea

108 Just an another day for the Aghanashini village ladies who spent the whole day collecting bivalves in the river

109 Arecanut plantation Fresh Jaggery getting ready in the backyard of a sugarcane farmer

Betel nut drying in a house in Sirsi An apiculturist holding a beehive

110 Workers collecting salt in , the oldest salt-manufacturing village in Karnataka

111 One of the popular Gudigargalli handicrafts workshop in Kumta A bangle seller showing his colorfull collections

An artist busy with his Ganesha idols made out of natural clay Flute making out of bamboo that is collected in the forests of Unchalli , Sirsi

112 Details of a sandalwood carved idol made by a well known artist

113 An elderly person in a house in Uttara Kannada

Baby getting ready for a hot bath Kids cooling off in a small pond

114 Group of school kids having fun on beach

115 (Top) Foreigners enjoying their vacation at the beach

(Right) One of the oldest library of Uttara Kannada, found in Gokarna has 4000 books and nearly 100 Palm leaf scripts (Talegari) which are 600 years old

As per 2011 census the population of the district is 14,37,169 with a sex ratio of 979 Languages of the district are Kannada, Konkani, Marathi, Tulu and Urdu. The population of the district is predominantly such as Bhandaris, Gramavokkaligas, Havyakas, Konkan Marathas, Goud Saraswat Brahmins, Daivajna Brahmins, Saraswat Brahmins,, Sherugars, Namadhari naiks, Nadavaras and Vaishyas (Vanis) Muslims in the district are from the Navayath descent

Pilgrims taking holy bath in Gokarna beach

116 Gleaming halakki tribal siblings from a remote village in Kumta A havyaka girl lit by golden light

Kid with the 'Eid' flag A boy from Tibetan refuge settlement of Mundagod. Tibetan settlement in Mundagod is one of the largest refuge settlements.

117 A religious ceremony in progress Group of people taking shelter under a tree while raining Local kids playing kabaddi on beach

A devotee offering his prayers to sun in Murdeshwara beach

118 Kids having fun in the monsoon rain

119 ACKNOWLEDGMENT PHOTO CONTRIBUTORS Nagesh Hegde Amoghvarsha Prof M D Subhaschandran Dhruva Suresh Vasantha Reddy, IFS Dinesh Maneer Vivek Muthuramalingam Kalagar Giri Puttaraju Kaiga Nagesh Hegde Onikeri Suhas Premkumar U T Suresh Vivek Muthuramalingam

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