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Guía De Pekín Instituto Cervantes de Pekín A1 Gongti Nanlu, Chaoyang - Pekín 100020 Teléfono: +86 10 58799666 Fax: +86 10 58799670 [email protected] www.pekin.cervantes.es 北京塞万提斯学院 北京市朝阳区工体南路甲一号 100020 电话: +86 10 58799666 传真: +86 10 58799670 [email protected] www.pekin.cervantes.es © de la actualización de la presente edición: Instituto Cervantes de Pekín © de los textos y traducciones: sus autores © de las fotografías: sus autores NIPO: 503-17-028-2 © Fotografía de Héctor Peinador Pérez GASTRONOMÍA Centro: Ciudad Prohibida, Quianmen, PREFACIO 6 Wangfujing y alrededores - Shishahai y Di'anmen - Chaoyang - Otros INTRODUCCIÓN Orientación y configuración urbana 8 - Días festivos - Clima Transporte - Moneda - Electricidad - Algunos consejos para el visitante ITINERARIOS TURÍSTICOS Visita de un día - Visita de dos días - 16 Visita de tres días - Y si todavía queda tiempo... - Fuera de Pekín - Museos DISTRITOS ARTÍSTICOS 34 798 - Caochangdi - - Otras galerías y espacios artístico NUEVA ARQUITECTURA 38 COMPRAS Mercados - Anticuarios - Sastres, telas, 42 sedas y ropa - Instrumentos musicales - 94 Librerias - Electrónica y fotografía - Té - Joyerías - Otros GASTRONOMÍA Centro: Ciudad Prohibida, Quianmen, Wangfujing y alrededores - 52 Shishahai y Di'anmen - Chaoyang - Otros INTRODUCCIÓN Orientación y configuración urbana - Días festivos - Clima Transporte 66 CAFETERÍAS - Moneda - Electricidad - Algunos consejos para el visitante 16 VIDA NOCTURNA 68 OCIO Casas de té - Ópera de Pekín 74 - Música clásica y teatro - Acrobacias - Masajes - Otros INFORMACIÓN DE INTERÉS 82 Páginas web de interés - Prensa - Urgencias médicas - Embajadas VOCABULARIO 94 Diccionario y publicaciones de interés para el viajero 6 PREFACIO Capital de la única civilización antigua que ha sobrevivido de forma ininterrumpida hasta nuestros días y de la ya segunda economía del mundo, Pekín es una ciudad vibrante y un merecido destino turístico imparable que atrae cada vez a más viajeros de todo el mundo. Desde sus característicos hutong hasta los centros comerciales de lujo dirigidos a unos ciudadanos cada vez más orientados al consumo, esta urbe de ambiciones megalómanas ofrece al turista una mirada de experiencias que combinan historia, cultura, tradición y, en un plano más prosaico, gastronomía, compras, ocio y vida nocturna, con el aliciente de perfilarse como una ciudad cada vez más cosmopolita y acogedora. Depositaria de siglos de tradición y marcada por la impronta de la cultura china y su fuerte idiosincrasia, Pekín es además el reflejo vivo de una sociedad que cambia y evoluciona a marchas forzadas, al ritmo que van marcando la globalización, la modernidad y el crecimiento económico rampante que se manifiesta en las grandes urbes chinas. Fruto de ello son las disparidades y contradicciones de una ciudad que vive a dos velocidades, la de las más humildes viviendas tradicionales o siheyuan, a cuyas puertas se celebran maratonianas partidas de mahjong, y la de los altos edificios de oficinas que se abren paso a empellones a costa de las anteriores. En cualquier caso, ambas facetas merecen ser exploradas. Esta guía, promovida desde el Instituto Cervantes de Pekín y editada con el apoyo y la colaboración de la Embajada de España, pretende facilitar al viajero hispanohablante este descubrimiento y ayudarle a superar las barreras lingüísticas y culturales para disfrutar de los paseos, monumentos y habitantes de una ciudad tan sorprendente como sugerente para el observador occidental. © Fotografía de Héctor Peinador Pérez 7 8 INTRODUCCIÓN Pekín se sitúa en una latitud similar a la de Madrid y, con sus extensos suburbios, cuenta con unos veintidós millones de habitantes (entre población inscrita y flotante). Históricamente, ha sido capital durante cinco dinastías. Los primeros asentamientos humanos en la zona se remontan al Sinantropus Pekinensis (Hombre de Pekín), hallado en Zhoukoudian, que vivió hace medio millón de años. Se convirtió por primera vez en capital de los reinos de la China del Norte al comienzo del siglo XII, con los Liao y los Jin, poblaciones de origen nómada de etnia khitan. Posteriormente llegó a ser la capital del Imperio Mongol y fue entonces cuando la visitó Marco Polo, bautizándola para Occidente con el nombre de Cambulac, “la ciudad del Khan”. Tras un intervalo de varios años, en los que la capital fue trasladada a Nanjing, volvió a ser el centro político y cultural de los Ming a partir del reinado del emperador Yongle, en 1404, recibiendo el nombre que mantiene actualmente: Beijing, es decir, “Capital del Norte”, por oposición a Nanjing (Nankín), la “Capital del Sur”. La ciudad estuvo amurallada hasta los años 50, época en la que se procedió, con el objetivo de remodelar y ampliar sus avenidas, a la demolición de las murallas, de sus puertas y de los numerosos arcos de madera, llamados pailou, que se alzaban en los extremos de muchas calles. © Fotografía de Eduardo Riley Akins Orientación y configuración urbana 9 La ciudad, asentada sobre una una superficie de 17.000 kilómetros cuadrados, está dividida en 16 distritos, de los cuales destacamos los más céntricos, los dos primeros corresponderían a la ciudad antigua: Dongcheng (centro-este): “Ciudad del Este”, se extiende al este de la plaza de Tian’anmen y en él se encuentran el Templo del Cielo, la calle comercial de Wangfujing y la Estación de Trenes de Pekín. Xicheng (centro-oeste): “Ciudad del Oeste”, incluye a la Ciudad Prohibida, el parque Beihai y Shichahai, además del antiguo barrio Xuanwu, en el que se encuentran Liulichang, el Templo de la Nube Blanca y la mezquita de la calle Niu. Haidian (extremo occidental): Acoge las universidades y el Palacio de Verano. Las montañas occidentales, donde se sitúan la Colina Fragante y el Jardín Botánico, constituyen uno de los destinos más asiduos de los pekineses que escapan los fines de semana de la vorágine de la ciudad.. Chaoyang (extremo oriental): Es el distrito más occidentalizado y cosmopolita de la capital, donde se ubican las embajadas de distintos países, el Instituto Cervantes de Pekín, el centro de negocios, las obras arquitectónicas más ambiciosas y modernas y un sinfín de bares, restaurantes y cafeterías. Días festivos Las fiestas oficiales chinas son las siguientes: Año nuevo: 1 de enero. Aunque este día es festivo, en China no se celebra el día de Año Nuevo, tampoco la gente se reúne en lugares para ver los fuegos artificiales como ocurre en otros países. Fiesta de la Primavera o Año Nuevo chino: enero o febrero Es la conmemoración del Año Nuevo chino, que se celebra en familia, y es lo que podríamos considerar el equivalente a nuestra Navidad. Suele tener lugar a finales de enero o en febrero, dependiendo del calendario lunar de cada año. Oficialmente dura siete días, según el año, aunque su “onda expansiva” comienza una semana antes y termina una semana después, de manera que resulta difícil realizar cualquier gestión administrativa o comercial en esa época. Festival Qingming o Día de los Difuntos: abril Festividad dedicada a los antepasados, la tradición consiste en barrer las tumbas de los familiares fallecidos, depositar ante ellas ofrendas y quemar papel moneda falso para que les llegue allá donde estén. Día Internacional del Trabajo: 1 de mayo El Día Internacional del Trabajo también se celebra en China, es una fecha especial para visitar un pueblo cercano. Festival del Bote del Dragón: junio Con una tradición de más de dos mil años, se celebra el quinto día del quinto mes del calendario 10 lunar para conmemorar la muerte de Qu Yuan, primer poeta conocido de China (época de los Estados Combatientes, 475-221 a. C.). En este día son tradicionales los zongzi, pequeños pastelitos de arroz glutinoso envueltos en hojas de bambú. Festival del Medio Otoño: septiembre u octubre Se celebra el decimoquinto día del octavo mes del calendario lunar. La luna llena recuerda la unidad familiar, y son propios de este día los “pastelitos de la Luna”, elaborados con una consistente masa de huevo y harina y con multitud de rellenos. Fiesta Nacional: 1 de octubre Conmemora la fundación de la República Popular China. Son festivos siete días consecutivos. Los comercios suelen estar abiertos, aunque a menudo reducen la duración de su jornada. Durante las fiestas del Año Nuevo chino cierran al público muchos restaurantes. Clima El clima de Pekín es continental, con temperaturas máximas que pueden llegar a rondar los 40 °C en los meses de verano y mínimas de hasta -10 °C en los meses más fríos. Las precipitaciones se concentran en los meses de julio y agosto, cuando la ciudad recibe la influencia del monzón de Asia Oriental. Los inviernos son fríos, ventosos y muy secos; y los veranos calurosos y húmedos, por lo que las mejores épocas para visitar la ciudad son primavera y otoño, cuando las condiciones son menos extremas y las precipitaciones poco probables. Transporte Aeropuerto Pekín cuenta con dos aeropuertos, aunque en la práctica casi la totalidad de los vuelos comerciales se realizan desde el Aeropuerto de la Capital (PEK), situado en el noreste de la ciudad, a unos 25 kilómetros de la Plaza de Tian’anmen. El aeropuerto cuenta con tres terminales, la T1, T2 y T3, esta última diseñada por Norman Foster (ver apartado NUEVA ARQUITECTURA DE PEKÍN en la página 39). Conviene asegurarse de la terminal de salida, especialmente cuando se vuele desde la Terminal 3, pues por su gran dimensión y cantidad de pasajeros, los traslados y controles de seguridad requieren más tiempo. El viaje en taxi desde el aeropuerto hasta el centro suele costar los 100 RMB, a los que hay que sumar 10 RMB de peaje de autopista. Existe además un servicio de autobús que conecta el aeropuerto y el centro de la ciudad (las paradas que más pueden interesar al visitante son Dongdan y la Estación de Trenes de Pekín), lo que supone una opción más económica (30 RMB), aunque poco práctica. En total son 18 líneas de autobuses.
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