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Home , Confluence Park, Fourteener, Red Rocks Amphitheatre

I (and So Will You)

An Opinionated Local’s Guide to and Beyond Exclusively for the 2012 AIUSA AGM Participants

Howdy? Well, Denver doesn’t have its own greeting, but it has a lot to offer! While you are in the Mile High City to learn about human rights, enjoy the area’s great attractions. This guide (which is not an official publication of Amnesty International USA) gives a crash-course on Colorado’s past, present, lingo, historical venues, natural attractions, and restaurants in the vicinity and beyond of the Denver Marriott City Center – the site of the AIUSA AGM. For more tips, visit denver.org, colorado.com, or walk to the Visit Denver Information Center on 16th and , one block south of Marriott. If you want another opinionated source of what to do, go to westword.com/bestOf/. Also, in the hotel room there are two guides to Denver (the large one has good maps). You can get a third one from the concierge desk, as well as a driving map of Colorado.

To navigate in Denver, use your cardinal directions (or a GPS). Colorado is made of mountains (West) and plains (East). When you see the mountains in the , you are looking West. The reverse is East. If you are looking at the mountains, your left is South and right is North. Capisce?

Denver is 5,280 feet above sea level. If you live in lower altitudes, you may feel dizzy and breathe with difficulty here. Stay hydrated – 8 glasses a day (alcohol doesn’t count; in fact, alcohol’s effects are stronger in higher altitudes). You can drink the tasty tap water!

Here is Colorado’s past in a glance. The land of the Arapahos, Cheyennes, Utes, and others, Colorado (which means “reddish” in Spanish) has been inhabited for at least 13,000 years. The 1000-year-old cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde, an 8-hour drive from Denver, is the first U.N.E.S.C.O. World Heritage Site (the international list that includes the Egyptian Pyramids, England’s Stonehenge, etc.) in the US. Even more famous than Mesa Verde is probably the song America the Beautiful. Its lyrics were written by Kathy Bates on the top of , near our second largest city – Colorado Springs. Colorado became a state in 1876, on the centennial (100th) anniversary of the Declaration of Independence (hence our nickname, the Centennial State). Today’s capital and largest city Denver was founded in 1858, after the discovery of gold (around today’s ) in what was then territory. It was named after the territory’s governor James W. Denver. In 1893 Colorado became the second state where women could vote!

Today, Colorado has 5 million residents, two Ute Indian reservations, 54 fourteeners, the highest mean altitude in the country, the U.S. Air Force Academy (in Colorado Springs), north America’s highest road (to fourteener Mt. Evans), the longest U.S. street (Colfax), the highest incorporated U.S. city (Leadville), the world’s largest liquor store (DaveCo in Thornton) and America’s most famous 24-year-old virgin (NFL star Tim Tebow). It is the only state to have turned down the Olympics (1976), as it didn’t want to encourage flatlanders to move in! Even so, many celebrities from President Ford to Oprah have bought homes in ski towns like Aspen, Telluride, Breckenridge, and Vail.

Colorado-speak: When We Say This, We Mean That Continental Divide – The mountainous separator of rivers flowing to the Pacific or the Atlantic Eastern Slope – Everything east of the continental divide, mostly describing the Eastern Plains Flatlander – Out-of-towner Foothills – Roughly speaking, lower mountainous areas Fourteener – One of Colorado’s 54 peaks at 14,000+ feet (none reaching 15,000) Front Range – The area east of the Rockies from Fort Collins to Pueblo, including Denver Kansas – Eastern Colorado (or Eastern Plains) Rocky Mountain Oysters – (Eat it first and then find out) RTD – The bus or light rail (ground train), run by the Regional Transportation District Western Slope – Everything west of the continental divide, mostly describing the mountains

Eating, Drinking, and Dancing around Marriott The , next to the Marriott, is THE street of Denver and has many restaurants, shops, and food carts. The shuttle that stops at every single cross-section is free. Make sure to take it to LoDo (Lower Downtown), the westernmost stops of the shuttle. There you will find wonderful but pricey Brazilian buffet-steakhouses (Fogo de Chao and Rodizio), as well as the more affordable Peruvian restaurant Los Cabos (try their lunch buffet). Many argue that even tastier (and much cheaper) eateries are the food carts, like the Armenian Shish Kabob cart on 16th and Market (unfortunately, most carts operate Monday through Friday only). Do not miss Denver’s first street Larimer Square (upper LoDo), with its chic restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. The hottest nightclub in Denver is the nearby Chloe, free for women but $20 for men. It’s 21+. Into coffee or tea? There are Starbucks all over (including in the Marriott lobby), but if you want to try a local chain, go to the Russian-themed Dazbog on 16th and Court, which means May God Give. (OK, this must be said: Starbucks tastes better.) If you want fairer trade coffee and tea and great atmosphere, try the cozy café in the bookstore or Common Grounds (15th and Wazee), which also has food and alcohol, in LoDo. Enjoy beer? You’re in the right place! Denver has more brewpubs per capita than any other U.S. city. Try the 100%-Colorado made Native Colorado, introduced only two years ago, if you can find it. If you want a fancy bar, go to The 9th Door or The Cruise Room at the Oxford Hotel in LoDo.

Eating and Drinking Beyond Marriott Denver’s best kept restaurant secrets? If one must be chosen (simply for the food; not the atmosphere) it’s the affordable Shish Kabob Grill, a Mediterranean restaurant operated by a Syrian family, directly north of the Capitol on Colfax and Grant (take the 16th Street shuttle to its easternmost stop, then walk east on Colfax). Their hummus is the best in the whole world! Another one is the fancy Buckhorn Exchange, the first restaurant/bar in Denver. It is no longer a “secret,” but still worth visiting (unless you dislike stuffed animals). It’s a pricey restaurant but you can just use the bar. Make sure to order Rocky Mountain Oysters. To get there, take any line of the southbound light rail (from 16th and Stout) to 10th and Osage station. The Buckhorn Exchange is literally across the station. Another fancy place for eating is the historic Brown Palace Hotel on 18th and Broadway, which has several expensive and excellent restaurants (lunch is relatively cheaper). You can take the free eastbound shuttle to Court Place and walk two blocks north. On the other side of the Capitol is the affordable vegetarian City O' City (13th and Sherman). Another popular spot is Le Central, a not-too- expensive French restaurant on 8th and Lincoln. You can take the public bus there. Visit www.rtd-denver.org or call 303-299-6000 to find out how to get there. If you haven’t tried the healthy-ish fast food chain Chipotle Mexican Grill, this is the place to do it, as Chipotle started in Colorado. There are franchises all over the place, including one next to the Marriott. For the best Chipotle, drive to the small restaurant where Chipotle started! It is on Evans and Gilpin by the . If you want (much) less tasty Mexican food but an amazingly entertaining atmosphere, drive to the enchanting Casa Bonita restaurant in the suburb of Lakewood. Into sushi? Stay away from the overpriced and overrated sushi places that shall remain nameless, tasteless, and shameless. Instead, go to Sonoda’s Sushi in Lodo and order their most expensive roll: rainbow. You are welcome. The best drinking place is LoDo (by Marriott). But if you want to get away from the downtown noise, take a bus or drive to the SoBo district (Broadway and 2nd), where there are many bars. For “the best” restaurants list compiled by one newspaper, visit westword.com/bestof/2011/section/food- and-drink-35100/, but beware that their rankings are sometimes (very) questionable.

Sightseeing and Museums around Marriott The closest museum to the Marriott is the Money Museum on 16th and Curtis, with free weekday admission. LoDo (the westernmost stop of the 16th Street shuttle) is a great place for sightseeing, with some of Denver’s oldest buildings (like the Oxford Hotel, which has the city’s largest urinals in the basement restroom). Further east is the beautiful Larimer Square, Denver’s first street. Or head to the Civic Center, which has the park that saw 650,000 celebrators when the Broncos won the Super Bowl in 1998, and 250,000 Barack Obama supporters at his largest campaign rally in October 2008. To get there, take the 16th Street shuttle to its easternmost stop, get off at the last station (Civic Center) and head southwest. And you may see Occupy Denver demonstrators on the sidewalk. The western part of the park has the City and County of Denver building, constructed in the 1930s. There are no tours inside and not much to see, so enjoy it from the outside. The eagle on the top of its dome was recently gilded (with real gold). Here is one rumor that even most Denverites don’t know: the artist of the eagle was angry at the commissioners, so he pointed the wings of the eagle straight up – the position of going to the bathroom! This is Denver’s best-kept-secret (unless you prefer the ridiculous Denver International Airport conspiracy theories), so please keep it to yourself. Behind the eagle is the Denver Justice Center, two structures that were recently constructed. South of the building is the , which has one of the world’s largest collection of Native American art! Next to the Museum is the (the 4th floor has good views; the 5th floor has a western exhibit; FREE). In the same area is the recently-opened Clyfford Still Museum; it’s one-of-a-kind if you are interested in Abstract Expressionism. Also nearby is the Byers- Evans House; if you are interested in intricacies of Colorado history, go there (or not). At this time, there is no Colorado History Museum (it opens in late April south of Civic Center park). There is also a museum called The Cell “that aims to educate…individuals and organizations to help combat terrorism.” The museum hasn’t been accused of having a genuine human rights agenda. On the east side of Civic Center is the golden-domed , opened in 1894. Much of the dome, made of cast iron, is covered for construction. You can tour the beautiful building and the seat of Colorado’s government for FREE during the week (10-3), and you can walk around it on the weekend. Look for the Sand Creek Massacre plaque at the base of the Civil War statue in front of the Capitol. The statue, erected in 1909, memorialized the 1864 killings of several hundred peaceful Arapaho and Cheyenne as a “battle.” The state legislature wanted to set the record straight, but not at the expense of vandalizing the statue. Instead, they placed a separate plaque below. Southwest of the Capitol is the Ralph Carr Judicial Building – still under construction. It memorializes a governor who put human rights before his career. Join the special Capitol tour to learn more. Northeast of the Capitol is the Immaculate Conception Cathedral (FREE). The western door is open. Go in and enjoy the beautiful stained glass windows and the marble interior. There is a painting of Black Madonna, a gift from Pope John Paul II during his 1993 visit, by the altar. Not too far from the cathedral (and closer to Marriott) is the Brown Palace Hotel (FREE), built in 1893. You do not need to be a hotel guest or a client at their fabulous restaurants or spa to see the hotel. Just go to the lobby and look up and around. This is a hotel where many presidents have stayed and one of them— heavyweight Taft— supposedly got stuck in a bathtub, or at least that’s what the participants of the 1908 Democratic National Convention in Denver claimed. Southeast of the Capitol, on and 13th, is the Museum. It memorializes a famous survivor of the ship Titanic (this year marks the centennial anniversary of the sinking) and pioneer suffragist.

Best parks Denver has America’s largest park system. They are all over the place. Consider going to the birthplace of Denver - Confluence Park (where gold was discovered in 1858). It is located by the Aquarium and Six Flags (also known by its original name, Elitch Gardens) around Speer Blvd and I-25. It’s a long walk – 30 minutes on 15th Ave and even longer on the Cherry Creek Trail (which you can catch from 14th and Market St). You can also visit the popular City Park with its lake, next to the and Denver Museum of Nature and Science (if you haven’t been to a major science museum, check this out) in the diverse Park Hill neighborhood. You need to take a bus or drive there. There is a statue of Martin Luther King Jr. in the park. If you can go further away, go to the flower-rich Park (7th and Franklin), which also has a lake where, depending on the weather, you can rent boats, bikes, and more. You can take the southbound H or F Light Rail line to /Pearl station.

Best shopping malls Into shopping? There are shops (including many souvenir stores) all around 16th Street Mall. Most souvenir items sold are made in China. So if you want something tasty and unique (and definitely made in Colorado), get dried Colorado peaches. The “best” (most extensive and expensive) shopping mall is Cherry Creek, a 15-minute drive from the Marriott.

Great places to skip Badlands National Park (OK, it’s not in Colorado but someone had to warn you) Four Mile Historic Park in Denver Kansas Manitou Springs Cliff Dwelling, as well as Ghost Town in Manitou Springs U.S. Mint (as you won’t be able to get in unless you made an online reservation long time ago)

Going Beyond Denver (You Need a Car) There is so much to see outside Denver, that a book wouldn’t be enough to mention them all. Yet there are not-to-be-missed highlights. Although it is officially part of Denver, the world- famous (settled in nature) is a 30-mile drive from downtown. A pricey yet gorgeous restaurant is the nearby The Fort – a replica of the historic Bent’s Fort in southeastern Colorado. Another good place to taste Rocky Mountain Oysters. If you only have a few hours, go to “America’s smartest city” - the liberal college town of (hence, The Peoples’ Republic of) Boulder (north on I-25 then take Highway 36) and walk on its Pearl Street. If you have more time, tour the tea-making company Celestial Seasonings (FREE) or even better – visit the incredible Dushanbe Tea House to grab a bite and tea, an unreciprocated gift from the people of Tajikistan. (If there is a wait, ask them if you can seat at the low tables by the bar.) Boulder also has wonderful hiking trails in the (accessible from Chautauqua Park; FREE). If you want to go to a restaurant with the best view (and possibly the highest price tag but not the best food) in Colorado, go to Flagstaff House. If you have to eat there, order the Lamb dish. If you want to see our conservative capital, head south (on I-25) to Colorado Springs, with the amazing Garden of the Gods (FREE) natural city park, the Air Force Academy (FREE), and the Cog Railway to take you to the top of Pikes Peak where America the Beautiful was born. If you want a more exciting day (but a longer one), go to the world’s tallest suspension bridge – Royal Gorge Bridge and Park and ride their skycoaster (that “throws” you into the gorge). The park and skycoaster together will cost you about $45 a person. Into skiing and snowboarding? You couldn’t be in a better place. There are dozens of resorts in Colorado, and some are them are only an hour away. Never skied or snowboarded before? You are a gorby (guy/gal on rental board) and the pros will hate you. But who cares? No matter how bad you will be, there is always someone who is worse than you; you are welcome. If you are on budget, are new to skiing/snowboarding, and don’t want to drive too much, go to Loveland Valley Ski area, an hour of drive from Denver (exit 216 on westbound I-70). Under $150, you get the whole deal: a lesson, equipment, clothing rental, and all-day lift. There are many more resorts, the fanciest and most expensive (read the best) one being Vail, a two hour drive from Denver on I-70. A one-day lift ticket (no equipment) is about $116. Further west is the beautiful town of Aspen, known for skiing, snowboarding, and celebrities. If you do make the 3.5 hour one-way trip to Aspen, make a stop at Glenwood Springs and soak in the world’s largest hot springs pool. Most importantly, stop at , the unbelievably stunning Rocky Mountain peaks by Aspen. The resort that’s not too expensive and not to busy and is the local’s choice is Arapahoe “A” Basin, also off I-70. Another local choice is Keystone. If you think you would make too much of a Gorby (trust me, you’d still be better than the author of these words), try something easier – like betting your money. We are not encouraging gambling (although in Colorado it supports higher education and historic preservation), but if you are into casinos you should visit the mountainous towns of Black Hawk and Central City (next to each other). They are about an hour drive from Denver. Black Hawk is mostly a new development. Central City is a small and beautiful historic mining town. On the way back, you can visit Red Rocks amphitheatre if the weather is good.

If this guide has been more confusing than helpful, and if you were looking for an one- sentence must-dos in Denver, here it is: go to Larimer Square and LoDo to grab food and drinks (Colorado Native beer), go to the other end of the 16th Street Mall to see the Capitol and grab food at the nearby Shish Kabob Grill, then on your way back to the Marriott stop at the Brown Palace Hotel and imagine president Taft stuck in a bathtub. Now get back to defending human rights!

Thank you for taking the time to read this guide. Welcome to Denver. Enjoy it. 