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The Canary Islands Graciosa and Lanzarote

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The Canary Islands Graciosa and Lanzarote The Canary Islands Graciosa and Lanzarote Travel letter 4 - 2011 e left you just after arriving in the beautiful Francesca Bay at the south side of Graciosa Island, the most NE island of The Canary Island Archipelago. We are once more fortunate to arrive in a place we have never been before, so time W Francesca Anchorage to discover new surroundings! The beautiful bay is packed with sailing boats of which at least 12 enormous catamarans. Some of the boats are waiting for a weather window to sail to Las Palmas at Gran Canaria to join the 2011 ARC-rally, as the huge ARC-flags show. Our first impression of Graciosa Island is fantastic and we are keen to have a look around tomorrow. To the top Next morning our attention is drawn to the nearby volcano cone. It’s no more than a few hundred meters off the anchorage. Although it is still early, a large group of people is already climbing along a steep path to get to the top. Our legs start to itch to join them but our agenda is booked for today. We have to climb to another top, the top of Zeezwaluw’ mast! The swiffel of the furling is still high up caused by as you will remember the chaffed- through top webbing. To be able to use the furling again, it has to come down. So Riens goes up in the Top-climber® to persuade the swiffel to come down. But probably he/she likes it that high up, having a wonderful view and a holiday! In the end we have to persuade the swiffel to come down by means of a pull-down line and some encouraging shoulder taps. After this job is done, Riens uses his high location to make beautiful panoramic pictures of Graciosa before he also descends. The genoa isn’t repaired jet but in the meantime we use our high aspect jib. Francesca Anchorage Graciosa, where time stands still Graciosa is 6,5km long and 3km wide and has 4 round conic low volcanic craters of which the highest is 265m. There are no roads only sand paths through the dunes or along the coastline. © SY Zeezwaluw 2017 1 The Canary Islands Graciosa and Lanzarote The only cars are local jeeps for safari tours. As a result, to buy some fresh veggies and bread you have to walk for nearly an hour to the little village Caleta del Sebo at the east side of the island. The Island Graciosa However ...it’s an amazing walk! Under a blue sky while the wind is blowing around our head, we wander along a sand trail winding through dunes covered with shrubbery while the distant horizon is lined by 3 volcano cones. The village is more or less a gathering of new houses growing directly out of the sand bottom. Sand streets separate the rows of houses, no paving at all. It feels like stepping back in time. The outskirts of the village are extremely quiet but it’s getting livelier near the “centre” where shops and restaurants encircle the old harbour. Friendly, easy going people, the small shops sell only daily necessities, like veggies, fruit, bread, frozen meat or chicken. No internet-cafe or shop to buy a pay as you go Spanish SIM-card for the internet. Consequently communication will be non-existing until we reach Lanzarote. To be honest, it has its charm, not being interrupted by telephone or being able to access the electronic mailbox. How to interpret weather forecast Luckily we have the Navtex for a weather forecast although it’s only a 24-hour period; it is superior to nothing at all. It warned us in time of the increase and change of wind-direction so we expected the swell would enter the anchorage for a little while, but would hardly disturbed our sleep. However for the majority of the boat crews it was too much. At first light, all but 5 boats left the anchorage in a hurry to find shelter somewhere else. As a result it became very quick, very quiet around us. The Francesca anchorage with view to the south © SY Zeezwaluw 2017 2 The Canary Islands Graciosa and Lanzarote We were very surprised by the sudden departure of almost all boats because the weather forecast wasn’t that bad to explain their panicking stampede. We stood our (anchor) ground, which was a good choice (in hindsight of course). At the moment most boats were leaving, the swell was already receding while the wind gradually shifted to the northwest, so we had had the “worst of the bad weather” already! However, we are not too comfortable without a 5-day weather forecast in solitude anchorages like this one. So, that’s why we thought it would be wiser to leave Graciosa the next day while the weather was still OK. The light northerly wind would not be a problem to sail around the north of Lanzarote to reach Arrecife at the east side of the island. So early morning we left the anchorage to motor through the channel between Graciosa and Lanzarote. We entered while a weak northerly blew at Zeezwaluw’ nose but the wind increased quickly to 20+kn as soon as we were halfway the channel. Conquering headway in the short steep waves was a challenge, but not too amusing! After rounding the Arrecife anchorage most NE-promontory of Lanzarote it became lovely again! We were able to sail on the headsail alone under a blue sky, in a beam wind which altered to downwind 30kn all the way to Arrecife. Underneath the Castillo San Jose we dropped anchor in absolute flat water amidst 10 other boats. Although the anchorage is next to the container terminal, it turned out to be very quiet because work stops at 6 P.M. every day. Exploration, consternation and solution For the following 3 weeks we stayed at this exquisite anchorage, whilst we explored Arrecife town by foot and the rest of the island by car. The next day, our first goal was to obtain a Spanish SIM-card for the phone and a dongle- SIM-card to gain internet access. Well, to make a long story short, to buy SIM-cards wasn’t a problem. The installation of the dongle and accessing the internet was. It took us 2 days and 2 very long walks to and fro the telephone shop as well as an hour of assistance by the shop-lady before all worked as it should be on our laptop. We were very pleased for the help we obtained where after we were able to get into contact with the outside world again. Downloading a 7- day weather forecast for planning the upcoming sailing trips was not an issue anymore. There was another urgent matter we had to attend. We had to find a sail maker to get the genoas top webbing repaired. Surfing the internet learned that there are 2 sail makers on the island. The first one was not too far to the north of Arrecife and the other one was at the south coast in Rubicon marina. The next morning after renting a car we were able to reach Costa Teguise before siesta time. But getting there and not able to find the address was annoying! We drove in circles for at least an hour in this little town but could not find the right address, not even with the help of the locals! © SY Zeezwaluw 2017 3 The Canary Islands Graciosa and Lanzarote A little disappointed we headed south to get to the other one in Rubicon marina. His shop was found easily but to our dismay it was closed. His next-door neighbour informed us that he was probably sailing, as he did so often!!!!!! Nobody knew when he would be back, but we were given his mobile phone number. For half an hour, sitting in the car in front of his shop, we tried to reach the sailing sail maker. No response at all. It was useless to wait any longer. So we made the best out of it and decided to drive via a scenic route along a volcanic moon landscape with strange rock formations back to Arrecife. An hour on our way, the sail maker called (probably used caller ID) to let us know he would be in his shop within the hour, could we be there? No way, instead we made an appointment for the next day 9a.m. The last part of our journey that day was through the valleys between the many volcanoes in the middle of the island. Sea salt mining in Lanzarote The black sloops of these volcanoes Vineyards in Lanzarote are scattered with vineyards, which is surreal! Each and every green grapevine is sitting in a semicircle stone wall protecting it against the strong winds while at the same time the wall seize as much of the rainwater as possible. This is so different from the vineyards we know of in Northern Europe. However, these volcanic island wines are delicious! At 10a.m. de next morning, an hour late, the sail maker made it to his office to meet us. We have been gritting our teeth during that period! After looking at our Genoa, he said he could repair it, but...... he was very busy and had no time to do so within the next 10 days. Too busy with sailing probably! We took our Genoa dropped it in the car again and left this uncooperative sail maker.
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