Glossary of Leather Terms Glossary of Leather Terms

Altered Leather Back Boardy Leather that has had the original surface of (1) The main portion of a hide, obtained by An adjective applied to stiff, inflexible leather. Bycast Leather the skin or hide removed, (usually due to cutting off the two bellies. This term is not to be confused with boarding, Leather that is split with a layer of polyurethane imperfections in the original grain surface), and (2) Leather made from (1) Bark Tanned Leather which is the process of softening leather. applied to the surface and then embossed - a new grain embossed into the leather. This vegetable tanned, mainly by means of the originally made for the shoe industry. is also called corrected grain. Most top-grain tannins contained in the barks of trees. leathers have altered or corrected grain. Bonded Leather Reconstituted leather that is leather fibers Cattle Hide Base Coat bonded together with latex. The outer covering of a fully grown bovine American Bison Color that is applied to a compatible crust color animal. American Bison Leather is stronger than to achieve the final color of a semi-aniline dyed Brushed Leather traditional steer hide and is also supple and product. durable. They showcase marks of a range The creation of a velvet-like nap on the grain Chamois Leather animal, the natural grain of bison hides is not surface through a process of controlled surface Very soft, flexible leather made from sheep corrected with artificial embossing or plating. Belly abrasion. hides or lambskin; usually tanned with oils. (1) Part of the hide covering the underside and the upper part of the legs of the animal. Aniline Buffed Leather Chrome Tanned (2) Leather made from this part. The name given to the particular transparent Leather from which the top surface of the grain Leather tanned with chromium salts and/or dye used to color dyed leather. has been removed by an abrasive or bladed chromium sulfate for a supple, pliable effect and Belly Grain cylinder or, less generally, by hand. In the to prevent discoloration and loss of shape when case of upholstery leather the buffing process exposed to moisture. Aniline Dyeing The tanned outer (hair or grain) layer split from is invariably carried out by machine, though The dyeing process by which transparent dyes a belly. it is sometimes incorrectly described as hand penetrate the cell layers throughout the hide, buffed. Combination Tanned producing deep, vibrant colors that preserve the Blue, In The Leather that receives chrome and vegetable hide=s natural markings and characteristics. tannage to produce suppleness and body in The state of hides or animals being chrome Buffed Top Grain the hide. tanned after they have been removed from the The process of sanding or buffing top Aniline Leather tanning solution. Chromium salts cause the grain leather to smooth the high spots of tanned hides to be light blue before they are Leather that has been dyed through with imperfection. Cordovan aniline dyes. Pure aniline leathers represent dyed. Leather made from the tight, firm shell portion approximately 5% of all upholstery leathers of horse butts. Cordovan has very fine pores produced worldwide. Buffing Blue Split and a characteristic finish, and is very durable. The process of more or less removing the grain A hide or skin which has been split into two by abrasion. Antiqued/Distressed Grain or more layers following the (chrome) tanning A surface pattern of markings or creases, in process. which the hollows are given a contrasting color to produce a two-tone effect that emulates the natural signs of aging.

2 | www.hancockandmoore.com www.hancockandmoore.com | 3 Corrected Grain Leather Embossed Leather Full Grain Grained Leather Leather from which the grain layer has been Usually corrected grain, in which a pattern The term used for the outside original skin Any leather on which the original natural grain partially removed by buffing to a depth is applied by extreme pressure in a press to or hide which has had the hair removed, but has been changed or altered by any method, governed by the condition of the raw material give a unique design or imitation of full grain otherwise has not been corrected or altered. process or manipulation; also top grain. and upon which a new surface has been built characteristics. Sometimes leathers are Full grain leather possesses the genuine original by various finishes. embossed to make them appear to be another grain of the animal. leather, such as embossing an alligator pattern Hand into a cowhide. A term used in the leather industry to describe the Cow Hide Full Hand feel, i.e., softness or fullness of upholstery leather. Hide from a mature female bovine that has Leather which is full-bodied, such as some produced a calf. Enhanced Grain combination tanned leathers and fine vegetable- Leather that is lightly buffed to improve the tanned upholstery leather. Also called round Hand Rubbing surface and embossed to simulate an attractive hand. Tone-on-tone effect created by blending colors. Crock (noun) grain or to add decorative texture. Used to add depth and character to leather. The coloring matter that rubs off of poorly dyed leather. Glazed Finish Fat Wrinkle Similar to an aniline finish except that the Heifer Wrinkles in the grain of leather caused by fat leather surface is polished to a high luster by A female bovine, under three years of age, that Crock (verb) deposits in the animal that create beauty in the the action of glass on the steel rollers under has not produced a calf. To transfer color of rubbing. leather. Fat wrinkles are not visible in imitation tremendous pressure. grain leather. Hide Grain (Leather) Crockproof (1) The outer covering of a mature or fully grown Finish Leather, suede or fabric that has been treated The outside of the hide or skin consisting of the large mammal, e.g. cattle, horse, camel and to prevent color from rubbing off. With suede, A surface application on the leather to pores, wrinkles and other characteristics which elephant. color, protect, or mask imperfections. More constitute the organic texture of the leather. this term means to treat to prevent shedding (2) Leather made from (1) which has not specifically, all processes administered to or rubbing off of fibers. been split, or f rom the grain split of such leather after it has been tanned. Grain Character hide; when used in this way the name of the animal e.g. cowhide or oxhide or the type of Crust The natural markings on the surface of the leather. Finishing leather, e.g. bag hide or case hide may be added. Leather which has been tanned but not finished. Any further steps taken after the dying Such leathers referred to as being in the crust. treatment such as rolling, pigmented spraying, Grain Embossed Leather laquering, antiquing, tipping, waxing, buffing, An artificial grain pressed into the surface of the An animal skin which has been preserved and embossing, glazing, waterproofing or flame Drum Dying top grain leather from which the original grain dressed for use. proofing in order to provide more abrasion and has been removed. The application of dye stuffs to leather by stain resistance and/or a more even surface the immersion of the leather in a drum that coloration. Liming is tumbled. This process allows full dye Grain Split penetration into the fiber. This process includes removal of the hair, The outer (wool or hair) layer of a hide or skin preparing the hides for the tanning process. that has been split into two or more layers.

4 | www.hancockandmoore.com www.hancockandmoore.com | 5 Matte Finish Nubuck Plating, Plated Leather Retan A flat or dull finish. A brushed, grain-sueded leather. Pressing leather with a heated metal plate A modifying secondary tannage applied after under high pressure. Most furniture leather is intermediate operations following the primary usually sanded, pigmented and plated to cover tanning. Metallized Leather Patent Leather imperfections. Leather given a metallic lustre by the Leather, one surface of which is covered with application of metallic foils or powders. an integral, flexible, waterproof film which has Round Hand a lustrous mirror-like surface. The coating was Printed Leather A full-handed leather, usually slightly swelled as formerly built up by the application of various Leather, bearing a surface pattern, produced with vegetable tanning. Milling daubs, varnishes and lacquers, pigmented or usually by embossing, but sometimes by other A process that produces suppleness in hides. non-pigmented, based on linseed oil. Today methods, e.g. by silkscreen printing. these may include nitro-cellulose and/or Saddle Leather synthetic resins. Laminates coated with a Vegetable-tanned cattlehide leather for Morocco plastics film less than 0.15mm thick may also be Protected Leather harnesses and saddles, usually of a natural tan (1) Vegetable tanned goat skin leather with classed as patent leather. Leather in which certain special chemicals shade and rather flexible. characteristic grain pattern developed naturally have been incorporated to render it less liable or by hand boarding or graining only. The most to deterioration through exposure to polluted Patina common and most characteristic grain is hard grain. atmospheres. Semi-Aniline A luster or shine that develops with use over (2) By long usage, especially in the fancy goods A semi-aniline leather has been aniline dyed, time. Usually associated with fine antiques and trade. Goatskin of any vegetable tannage that t h e n s l i g h t l y p i g m e n te d . B e c a u s e p i g m e n t vintage furniture. Pull-Up has been hand boarded in the damp condition, is solid , this type of leather ensures color but in the strict sense it should be limited to Describes the behavior of leather that has been co n si s ten c y w h il e h a v ing s t a in a n d sp il l goatskin tanned exclusively with sumac. treated with oils, waxes, and dyes in such a way resistance. Pearlized Leather that when the leather is pulled or stretched (i.e. Coloured leather with a pearl-like lustre. on upholstery), the finish becomes lighter in Naked Leather Pearlescent Leather Coloured leather with a the stretched areas. Considered a mark of high Shearling pearl-like lustre. quality. A dyed leather that has received no topical Wooled sheep and lambskins, tanned with the application that may mask or alter the natural wool intact. state of the leather. Perforated Pure Aniline In leather, the process of die cutting small holes Leather that is aniline dyed and receives no Shrunken Grain Leather Nappa to form a pattern. The holes can vary in size, additional coloring. Also called full aniline, A full, natural-grain leather which is shrunken to density and pattern. enlarge and enhance the grain of the leather. Soft full grain gloving or clothing leather made naked aniline or naked leather. from unsplit sheep or lambskin or kid-skin. It is usually tanned with alum and chromium salts Pigmented Side Leather and dyed throughout its substance. Raw Hide Leather that is finished with a solid pigment A hide which has only been treated to preserve Grain leather which has been cut in half, forming coating for consistency of color and texture. it prior to tanning. two sides in order to better accommodate Natural Grain Pigment may be used to cover imperfections, tannery equipment. as well as add protection. A leather which retains the full original grain.

6 | www.hancockandmoore.com www.hancockandmoore.com | 7 Skive Suede Unfinished Leather To slice or split into a thin layer, or to reduce Leathers that are finished by buffing the flesh Normally defines aniline dyed, naked leathers leather to a specific thickness. side (opposite the grain side) to produce a nap. with no additional application intended to finish, color or treat in any way that would alter the natural characteristics of the leather. Snuffed Sueding The grain surface is abraded with brushes, The process of raising fibers on the grain side of emery wheel or sandpaper. Leather is snuffed a hide or skin to give a velvet nap effect. This is Upholstery Leather for the purpose of removing defective grain, or generally called nubuck or grain suede. A general term for leather processed for use in for sueding the surface of the leather. furniture, automobiles and airplanes.

Suede Split Split Leather made from the flesh split of hide or skin Unprotected Leather A single layer from a hide or skin that has been and finished with a velvet-like nap normally on This leather does not have a protective coating. separated over its whole area into two or more the split surface. Unprotected leather features more natural layers. The layers thus obtained are termed: characteristics of the leather, it is typically (a) top grain split (outer split); (b) flesh split softer than treated or protected leather. (inner split); (c) in heavy hides there can also Table Run They are more susceptible to fading, staining be middle split. Leathers which are not graded. Cheaper, or soiling. ungraded leathers sold to manufacturers.

Split Leather Vegetable Tanning Skin sliced in layers to give uniform thickness Tanning The conversion of rawhide into leather with to the piece (grainside). Split leather (inside) is Process whereby putrescible (perishable) raw a greater body and firmness than the more trimmed and finished as suede. Cheap leathers hides and skins are converted into leather. general method of chromium tanning. are sometimes pigmented splits with embossed imitation grain. Top Coat Weight A transparent, protective coating applied to the The weight of leather is measured in ounces per Splitting leather surface. May also impart luster to the square foot. Cutting leather into two or more layers, or surface. cutting leather into two sides preparatory to tanning. Wet Blue Leather Top Grain Leather which after chrome tanning has not The term intended to define genuine grain been further processed and is sold in the wet Steer Hide leather, as opposed to split leather which has condition. A castrated bull whose hide shows a tight grain been pigmented and embossed with a new structure, making it the ideal choice for leather grain. In reality, top-grain leather usually has upholstery. had the original grain removed and an imitation grain embossed into the surface.

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