History On The Road TIMBERLINE LODGE, MOUNT HOOD, OREGON By James G. Lewis

ocated on the touches on issues that foreshadowed what with recreational pursuits. Mount Hood the U.S. Forest Service would later confront Establishment of the recreation area L National Forest on a national level. For most visitors, brought to the fore the debate among a short drive from Port- though, this National Historic Landmark locals and Forest Service employees about land, Oregon, Timber- is simply a great place to have some fun all the definition of “recreational use” on a line Lodge is a resort year round. national forest. The debate reflected one destination and gate- In 1925, the 173-mile-long Loop Road, that had been going on in other parts of way to modern recre- which starts in Portland and circles the country and other regions of the Forest ational opportunities Mount Hood itself, opened up Mount Service. In Colorado, recreation engineer ranging from basic hiking to snowboard- Hood National Forest to Portland resi- Arthur Carhart had persuaded the Forest ing. Conceived in the 1930s as a public dents seeking recreational opportunities Service in 1920 to set aside the land around works relief project to aid unemployed such as hiking and skiing. The year after Trappers Lake on the White River National Oregonians during the Great Depression, the road opened, the federal government Forest as wilderness. Aldo Leopold had Timberline is also a living museum that set aside 83,751 acres of the national for- done the same in 1924 on the Gila National houses the best of the handicraft move- est as a public recreation area and in Forest in Arizona. In Oregon, would recre- ment and features original furniture, fix- doing so declared that economic activi- ation mean solitary hiking, or winter sports tures, and furnishings. Its early history ties would not be allowed to interfere carnivals with thousands of participants? U.S. FOREST SERVICE PHOTO 361325 Timberline Lodge in Oregon, around the time it opened in 1938 and before the ski lift was built. A snow-capped Mt. Hood provides a scenic backdrop behind the lodge. Before the lift was built, skiers skied to the road below and caught a ride back up by car.

FOREST HISTORY TODAY | SPRING/FALL 2009 59 “A Map of Territory around Timber Line Lodge,” by Littleton Dryden, published in Builders of Timberline Lodge, Works Progress Administration, Portland, Oregon, 1937. Items like the toboggan run and ski jump were never constructed.

Mount Hood’s immediate popularity with at this location. But conflict foreshadowed in the mid 1930s, discussion turned to the locals and seasonal tourists who were clam- the national debate over wilderness that building’s design. As Sarah Baker Munro oring for recreational facilities and emerged after World War II. documents in her new book, Timberline overnight lodging soon ended the debate Once the site for a lodge was selected Lodge: The History, Art, and Craft of an

60 FOREST HISTORY TODAY | SPRING/FALL 2009 TEXTILE AND POST PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR WILLIAMS CHAIR PHOTO COURTESY OF GERALD W. Examples of the textiles, artwork, and furniture made for Timberline Lodge: the curtain features a local plant, a wooden newel post was carved in the shape of a native bird, and the chair is made of wood, iron, and rawhide.

American Icon, an early proposal for a large, Cascadian. He led a team of Forest Service WORK BEGINS blocky structure with a tram and cable- architects, each handling a different aspect Hopkins approved funding that December way to the summit of Mount Hood gave of the building, and supervised the cre- for “a year-round recreational center at Forest Service leaders and the secretary of ation of detailed drawings as well as con- Timber Line on Mount Hood, including Agriculture pause. They realized they struction. All that remained to be decided housing accommodations, roads, trails, were dealing with “one of the great land- in 1935 was who would fund it—and who landscaping, parking spaces, swimming marks of the continent.”1 would operate it. tanks, toboggan and ski runs, ski jumps, Design efforts quickly moved toward With the Great Depression in full tennis courts, water system, open amphi- a hotel integrated into the mountain envi- swing and money tight, it was agreed theater, barns, shelters, and a hotel of ronment. After initial plans had to be aban- that the Forest Service would develop stone and wood.” When construction doned because of high per-room costs, in and landscape the roads and grounds costs soared, however, items like the December 1935 the Forest Service hired around the proposed hotel, and the hotel toboggan runs, ski jump, ice-skating rink, Gilbert Stanley Underwood as the consult- construction would be handled by and tennis courts were never constructed. ing architect. Underwood had apprenticed another agency. Promoters turned to the After much debate about the appropriate- in Arts and Crafts architecture, which fea- federal government’s newly created ness of a swimming pool in a recreation tured the use of Native designs and natu- Works Progress Administration (WPA) area, one was built in the 1950s.4 Though ral materials. Underwood’s work for the for funding. Since the goal of WPA was no funding had been provided for a ski lift, National Park Service on the Zion and to provide jobs for the greatest possible Forest Service Chief Ferdinand Silcox over- Bryce Canyon lodges in Utah and the number of workers, the desire to build ruled his subordinates’ protests about its Ahwahnee Lodge in Yosemite held great by hand made Timberline Lodge an ideal appropriateness in a “wilderness” area and appeal for Timberline’s boosters. In fact, project. To secure the necessary loans, ordered it built in fall 1938. his designs for national park lodges the Forest Service joined with the local The Magic Mile chairlift was the sec- “became the standard for architecture on booster organization, Mount Hood ond one ever built for passengers (the first public lands.”2 Development Association, to pledge the was at Sun Valley, Idaho) and was for For Timberline Lodge, Underwood required portion of funds. In September many years the longest chairlift in the combined Rustic style with the aesthetics 1935, Oregon’s WPA director, Emerson world. Passengers rode up the mountain of the Arts and Crafts movement into an J. Griffith, submitted an application to to a stone-and-wood warming hut, which architectural style he called “environmen- Harry Hopkins, the federal WPA admin- was named for Silcox, who died unex- tal.” Promoters, wanting to avoid the istrator, for $246,893 to build a hotel. pectedly shortly before its opening in terms “rustic” and “environmental,” (Three more applications for funds 1939. After falling into disuse and disre- adopted “Cascadian” to suggest the lodge’s would eventually be filed, and the final pair after 1962, when a new lift was built, setting in the Cascade Mountain range and cost of the building, road improvements, the Silcox Hut was abandoned. The non- its echo of the shape of the mountain and landscaping would total nearly $1 profit group Friends of Silcox Hut reno- peak behind it.3 Working from Under- million.) Eager to secure funding, Griffith vated it in the late 1980s and transformed wood’s general designs, the detail work did not tell Hopkins that working draw- it into a popular overnight stay for groups fell to William I. “Tim” Turner, a Forest ings had yet to be completed for the of up to twenty-four. Like Timberline Service architect who had coined the term building. Lodge, Silcox Hut is now on the National

FOREST HISTORY TODAY | SPRING/FALL 2009 61 Register of Historic Places. Project, which ran from 1935 to 1943 and carved linoleum panels; and Virginia Work on the lodge began in earnest on was part of the WPA. Darcé, who did a glass mural for the Blue June 13, 1936, even though the plans were Oregon’s pioneer heritage provided a Ox Bar of Paul Bunyan, a popular subject not actually approved until July. The year- main theme for the Timberline Lodge fur- in WPA art in the Northwest and a natu- round resort was built to accommodate nishings. The connection was natural. Just ral choice for Timberline.8 250 overnight guests and 200 diners at one down from the lodge are Barlow Road, Crafts for Timberline Lodge included time. “The structure as designed consists the last overland segment of the Oregon ironwork, wood, and textiles. In 1976, of two wings which radiate from a cen- Trail, and perilous Laurel Hill, the most Margery Hoffman Smith said of the tral hexagonal unit some 66 feet in diam- difficult descent on the 2,200-mile trail. craftsworkers, “Carpenters became cabi- eter,” states a Forest Service document Pioneer themes were popular subject mat- net makers, blacksmiths became art metal written shortly before the lodge opened. ter in many New Deal murals and arts workers and sewing women wound up “The total overall length of the building around the country and were easily expert drapery makers.”9 The work was is roughly some 360 feet, with an average accepted by WPA officials for use in the as much about uplifting the workers and depth of 38 feet for both wings. These two lodge. Items associated with the pioneer restoring their confidence and self-esteem wings are four stories in height.”5 Later era, like ox yokes, were incorporated into as it was producing items. It had been additions and renovations have not altered light fixtures. hoped that craftsworkers would be able the main building significantly. Two other design elements may be to transfer their skills to commercial work Timberline Lodge “is built of native found in the lodge. Native American after the Timberline project. But for sev- stone, hewn timbers, and rough sawn sid- motifs can be seen inside and out. eral reasons, such as the onset of World ing, with [a] roof of heavy shakes.”6 The Interestingly, the carved designs in the lin- War II, few Timberline craftspeople later rock for the stone façade came from near tels around the lower lobby were taken made a living from their craft. the construction site, and the wood came from a Camp Fire Girls handbook belong- Iron- and woodworkers turned out fix- from area forests. There is still some debate ing to the daughter of WPA Director tures and furniture specially designed for over the source for the six enormous hand- Griffith, though it is believed that the the lodge, all under the discriminating eye hewn timber columns that support the Camp Fire Girls may have adapted the of interior designer Smith. After a visit in ceiling of the headhouse. Consensus was symbols from northern Plains Indian cul- May 1939, State Parks Superintendent S. that they all came from what is now the ture. Another element is wildlife. Inspira- H. Boardman voiced his approval: “I was Gifford Pinchot National Forest, but there tion was drawn from the area’s alpine particularly fascinated by the interior fur- is reason to believe that some may have region. Depictions of cougars, coyotes, nishings, chairs, tables, counters, rugs, come from private land in Washington owls, eagles, and other creatures can be murals, spreads, tapestries—all works of adjacent to the national forest.7 found in panels in the main lobby, dining art.”10 One contemporary Forest Service room, and stairway newel posts. Beavers, document noted how the “Handhewn rabbits, squirrels, and woodchucks are seats, tables, and other furniture…give the ART AND CRAFT incorporated into guest room fireplace feeling of massive simplicity appropriate When work began in June, it was a race andirons. Botanical watercolors of area to this setting.”11 After touring the lodge against time. Workers had to frame and plants hang on guest room walls. prior to its opening, First Lady Eleanor roof the 15,000-square-foot building before All three themes were integrated and Roosevelt exclaimed after seeing the tex- winter set in. Fortunately, the first winter elaborated upon in the interior furnish- tiles in a guest room, “This is the best thing snows did not start until December that ings by interior designer Margery Hoff- I have seen. I think it is perfectly wonder- year. By then, the framing was complete man Smith, whose vision and ideas are ful. Isn’t it possible that this might lead to and the interior finishing work well under evident throughout the décor of the a permanent arts and crafts center?”12 way. Meanwhile, in Portland, craftsmen lodge. She had a hand in selecting artwork and artists were turning out the wrought- from some of Oregon’s most prominent OPEN FOR BUSINESS iron furnishings, wooden furniture, and artists of the 1930s: Darrel Austin, Clayton textiles for rugs, draperies, and upholstery Sumner (C. S.) Price, Charles Heaney, and The First Lady saw the lodge when she to be used throughout the lodge. Funding Howard Sewall (all painters or muralists); and President Franklin Roosevelt came to for them came from the Federal Art Douglas Lynch, who produced a series of dedicate Timberline Lodge on September

Forest History Today seeks manuscripts that are 3,000 to 5,000 words long with six to eight historic photos/ illustrations. Original photos are accepted or high-quality scans (minimum 300 dpi at 5”x 7”). Manuscripts should be written for a

general audience, be historically accurate and be interpretive in nature. Authors should use Chicago Manual of Style-Humanities for

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Jamie Lewis at [email protected] or 919/682-9319 to discuss potential topics.

62 FOREST HISTORY TODAY | SPRING/FALL 2009 COURTESY OF GERALD W. WILLIAMS COURTESY OF GERALD W. The six headhouse columns and massive fire place define the main lobby, the lodge’s primary public space.

28, 1937. In the president’s remarks, he to a private operator, Timberline Lodge, everywhere.14 The Forest Service canceled mentioned future recreational benefits of Inc., which the Mount Hood Develop- the operating permit but had trouble evict- the lodge but emphasized the economic ment Association had hastily formed ing the company. Six weeks later, on value of the forests for timber, grazing, when no other prospects came through. February 17, 1955, the history of Timber- game, and water—the Forest Service’s It was a decision the Forest Service soon line Lodge reached its nadir: the electric- mission. Commenting on how the proj- would regret. ity was turned off because of a failure to ect came to fruition, Roosevelt noted, The lodge officially opened in February pay the utility bill, and guests checked out “This Timberline Lodge marks a venture 1938. First aid was provided to skiers by of the hotel by candlelight. that was made possible by WPA emer- locals who formed the Mount Hood Ski Success and stability finally came under gency relief work, in order that we may Patrol, now the oldest volunteer ski patrol the management of Richard L. Kohn- test the workability of recreational facili- in the country. Rooms filled up during that stamm, who took over two months after ties installed by the Government itself and first winter, but after the ski season ended, the lodge went dark. His management operated under its complete control.”13 they largely sat empty because of a dearth firm, R.L.K. and Company, immediately This last statement was mostly true. of warm-weather recreational facilities and began renovations and reopened the lodge Though the government would retain organized activities, a trend that continued and resort in December 1955. The success- control over the lodge, WPA Director for several years. Operated by a series of ful turnaround even landed the resort on Emerson Griffith and others had yet to poorly funded and inadequate manage- the cover of Sports Illustrated in December determine who would operate it. As work ment companies, the lodge lost money 1957. As part of the renovation of the ski continued through the winter of 1936–37 nearly every year and was struggling when operations, Kohnstamm installed a new to ready the lodge for business, the Forest it shut down for the duration of World chairlift to the 7,000-foot level and even- Service remained ambivalent about hand- War II. After the war the building and ski tually another lift from there to 10,000 feet. ing the keys over to a private operator. The operation suffered from continued inade- Opening up the upper portion of Mount agency’s recreation chief, Robert Marshall, quate maintenance and operation. In the Hood enabled Timberline Lodge to adver- had suggested that the Forest Service oper- early 1950s, lodge patrons took to break- tise itself as the first year-round ski resort ate the lodge, pay prevailing wages, and ing up furniture and burning it for heat in America. The continuity of races and include a nondiscrimination clause. because of broken windows in some of events brightened the lodge’s financial pic- Instead, the agency turned operation over the rooms. Filth and grime coated surfaces ture. Kohnstamm’s efforts attracted skiers

FOREST HISTORY TODAY | SPRING/FALL 2009 63 from around the world and put ing infrastructure itself, means a never- 3. Ibid., 44. Timberline Lodge in the vanguard of the ending list of concerns for the Forest 4. Ibid., 37. expanding regional and national ski indus- Service and its private and nonprofit part- 5. The Forest Service and the Civilian Conservation try. ners. Nonetheless, the vision for Corps: 1933–42, available online at After renewing his permit with the Timberline Lodge is rooted in its original http://www.nps.gov/history/history/ online_books/ccc/ccc/chap14.htm. Forest Service in the 1970s, Kohnstamm mission. On the occasion of the fiftieth 6. Ibid. secured federal funds to erect a mainte- anniversary of Timberline Lodge’s rescue 7. Munro, Timberline Lodge, 67. nance building and a three-story conven- by Kohnstamm, R.L.K. and Company 8. Munro provides useful inventories of the tion wing that won a prestigious design declared that its vision “is guided by lodge’s art, artists, furniture, fixtures, and award. The public-private partnership was [Timberline’s] place in history, its beauti- furnishings. further strengthened by the creation of ful setting, its dedication to quality recre- 9. Ibid., 92. the nonprofit Friends of Timberline in ation and hospitality, and its aspirations to 10. Ibid., 101. 1975. The group spearheaded restoration continue to be a place for the ‘everyman,’ 11. The Forest Service and the Civilian Conservation of the original artwork, textiles, and wood rather than to operate and promote itself Corps. and wrought-iron furniture and furnish- as an exclusive resort.”16 I 12. Munro, Timberline Lodge, 112. ings. The history of Timberline’s crafts 13. Quoted in The Forest Service and the Civilian may be explored in the Rachael Griffin Conservation Corps. Historic Exhibition Center in the lodge’s James G. Lewis is the editor of Forest History 14. Brian Akre, “Timberline Lodge still ruggedly lower lobby. The center includes a model Today and author of The Forest Service beautiful at 50,” Eugene (OR) Register-Guard, guest room and a media room where one and the Greatest Good: A Centennial September 29, 1987. 15. Munro, Timberline Lodge, 112. can view a film of the history of the History from the Forest History Society. 16. Quoted in The Forest Service and the Civilian 15 lodge’s construction. Conservation Corps. Maintenance and restoration issues in NOTES 17. Akre, “Timberline Lodge still ruggedly the aging building are now complicated beautiful at 50.” 1. Sarah Baker Munro, Timberline Lodge: The by its 1977 designation as a National 18. Munro, Timberline Lodge, 148. History, Art, and Craft of an American Icon Historic Landmark. The natural deterio- 19. Ibid., 164–165. ration of the original plumbing, electrical, (Portland, OR: Timber Press, 2009), 26. This and heating systems, as well as the build- article draws heavily from Munro’s book. 2. Ibid., 40.

From the Forest History Society…

A Hard Road to Travel: Land, Forests and People in the Upper Athabasca Region by Murphy, Udell, Stevenson, and Peterson

People have co-existed with the land in the upper Athabasca in west- ern Alberta, Canada, for the last 10,000 years. Its geology, topography, waters, climate, forests, and wildlife have all had a significant effect on the relationship between people and the land.

The authors trace the changing relationships between people and forests as humans first traveled through the area, then stayed to strug- gle, survive, and eventually flourish—first despite the forest, then in harmony with it. With extremes of temperature, drought and forest fires, deep snow, floods, muskegs, and fallen timber, it truly has been a hard road. Such a history must inform our present and future deci- sionmaking about resource use and sustainability.

Co-published with Foothills Model Forest www.foresthistory.org ISBN: HARDCOVER: 978-1-896585-10-9 $49.95 + shipping and handling or ISBN: SOFTCOVER: 978-1-896585-11-6 $29.95 + shipping and handling www.fmf.ca

64 FOREST HISTORY TODAY | SPRING/FALL 2009