Editorial Welcome

to A VISIT TO POLYNESIA IS GUARANTEED TO BE AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE . Polynesia! TRAVELING BY BOAT , YOU WILL DISCOVER DRAMATIC LANDSCAPES , TRANQUIL LAGOONS AND WELL -PROTECTED ANCHORAGES , JUST AS THE AREA ’S FIRST LEGENDARY NAVIGATORS DID MANY GENERATIONS AGO .

But you will soon come to understand that a visit to and her islands is more than just ‘sailing Contents through a picture postcard’. As you will discover, the unique Tahitian style of living reveres cultural traditions that date back centuries. Cruising 123 Polynesian waters may prove to be your most exceptional sailing experience ever! As you visit a variety of beautiful, unspoiled locations throughout the islands, you will often experience 456 that rare feeling of serenity. Ashore, local residents will welcome you, and well-equipped facilities will meet your needs. page 1 The Port Autonome de Papeete 2 From paradise to reality 2 Sailing conditions Even in Paradise, however, there are rules to Introduction & climate 5 follow! Crew and passengers must comply with all Map of 6 customs and immigration formalities. Yachtsmen guide will introduce you to the whole of Polynesia. Beaconing for each archipelago 8 must also consider the practical questions involved In it, you will find practical advice and technical PGEM & other information 9 in a visit to French Polynesia, such as: How is the information that should be helpful. 3 Administratives procedures port structured? Where can drinking water be Customs formalities 11 obtained? Where can we find phone numbers to Competitive infrastructures Sanitary & immigration formalities 13 dial in case of an emergency? Where can we find You will also discover how the Port Autonome Yachts Agents 15 ship chandleries? de Papeete has continued to improve not only 4 From archipelo to archipelago the quality of its facilities, but also the number of Introduction 17 Meeting your needs services provided to port users. This dynamic and 18 This guide has been prepared by the Port modern evolution has kept pace with French Tuamotu 19 Autonome de Papeete , whose objective is to Polynesia’s rapid economic development. The Port Leeward Islands 20 answer all the questions you may have. The guide Autonome de Papeete has also taken strong Map of Quai des Yachts 22 was made especially for yachtsmen, in order to and symbolic actions towards yachtsmen. For in Papeete and the Taina Marina welcome them and make their stay in French example, the Port Authority initiated the Tahiti Tahiti and Moorea 24 Polynesia easier. Hopefully, it will help you in Moorea Sailing Rendez-Vous , a special event 5 Directory of marine suppliers 26 dealing with bureaucratic ‘red tape,’ and will designed specifically to welcome visiting 6 Nautical life facilitate a problem-free arrival so that you can yachtsmen to our islands and introduce them to Fishing 29 enjoy the natural riches of this vast territory, Polynesian cultural traditions. With this Events & Bibliography 31 which extends over 4 million km² of the ocean’s introduction, we invite you to read through these surface. Although the Port Autonome de Papeete is pages, and we wish you pleasant cruising in French concerned primarily with Tahiti and Moorea, this Polynesian waters.

Patrick BORDET Informations General Director of the Port Autonome de Papeete desk Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 1

Created in 1996 by the Port Autonome de Papeete. Content images courtesy of: Port Autonome de Editor: Laurent Barra / Port Autonome de Papeete. Papeete, Gie Tahiti Tourism, Service de la Pêche, Editorial concept and graphic creation: Archipels Croisières, Marine Nationale, L. Laplane, Archipelagoes . C. Durocher, A. Turpin, Archipelagoes. English translation: K. Blanchard, A. Rocca, Graphic creation of Tahiti Moorea Sailing A. Turpin, E. Caradec, F. Dupré et E. Boutin. Rendezvous poster: Greg LeBacon & Archipelagoes édition Printed by: Seripol . Tahiti. Avril 2009. Special thanks to : Andy Turpin, Etienne Boutin, 2009 Advertising: [email protected] Laurent Bernaert, Dominique Morvan, Contact: [email protected] Department of Tourism, Gie Tahiti Tourism . The Port Autonome de Papeete An international INTERNATIONAL TRADE , TRAFFIC BETWEEN ISLANDS , FISHING , cruise port CRUISE TOURISM , YACHTING …: PAPEETE PORT IS AT THE HEART OF POLYNESIAN LIFE AND NAUTICAL TOURISM .

Because of its downtown location, the It is now Papeete Yachts Quay gives yachtsmen easy the symbol of a shared access and and direct access to all corner stores and cooperation of cruise ships and services of Tahiti commercial center in the private Yachts with fishing vessels, town . From Vaiete place, with its typical coasters and freighters. caravans – they are impossible to miss –, to the Since year 2000, Papeete Port invested more other places where you can experience the than 12 billion XPF – 100.5 million € – in Polynesian culture in the capital city of building new infrastructures with the aim of Polynesia… You will never be bored in Tahiti! improving not only the international and Moreover, the Papeete port had greatly inter-island trade development’s improved its infrastructures recently to conditions , but also the welcoming of welcome more yachtsmen in comfort on cruise ships , visiting yachting and fishing a special dock equiped with security vessels . These large-scale improvement were gates and patrolled by security guards financed in part with the annual cash flow 24/7 during the sailboats high season. generated by the Port Autonome de Papeete. Its modern settlements are in constant This privileged access offers them evolution and contribute to the economic the opportunity to be berthed in rapid development of French Polynesia. the heart of the city and enjoy its many attractions without security The only commercial international A lively and central port of call. concerns. port providing service Who says Tahiti was a marginal destination on all over Polynesia. the world cruise market? Specially designed infrastructures Thousand of tons of products are in transit Today, the Port of Papeete is a thriving for yachtsmen every year on the different quays of Papeete. international cruise port , big enough to The Port Autonome de Papeete has been The container traffic represents a impressive welcome four cruise ships at the same time. involved in a variety of efforts to benefit quantity of more than 70,000 EVP (20 feet Papeete port reflects an image of luxury for yachtsmen throughout the . containers) in import and export. Merchant Polynesia. Both Tahitians and visitors have The Ports efforts extend to part of Papeete ships – cargo ships, “Ro-Ro” (roll-on, roll-off) already seen many of these prestigious Harbour , to Teonetea in Papearii and to – have three dedicated berths along a 453 m “superboats” parading before their eyes, from Taina Marina in Punaauia. On Moorea, long quay. Products are stored in a container the Paul Gauguin to the Tahitian Princess and Tahiti’s sister-island, the Port Autonome de terminal with a carrying capacity greater than the Starflyer , through the Amsterdam, the Papeete is also in charge of the Vaiare Bay , 90,000 m². Seven Seas Mariner, the Regal Princess, the including the Marina and the Ferry Quay were Cargo vessels which operate between the Queen Elizabeth II , and the Queen Mary II . ferries and fast shuttles offer frequent capital city, Papeete, and outlying Polynesian Thanks to the construction of new finger pier transportation to both foot passengers and light islands have six berths at their disposal, with a in the heart of Papeete, the Port of Papeete vehicles. total of 1,000 meters for schooners... can now host the finest cruise ships from With maritime jurisdiction over an area of more Travelling through the islands, these anywhere in the world . than 800,000 m 2, the Port of Papeete provides vessels operate in an area equivalent to services to a wide variety of vessels, including the size of Europe! sailboats visiting from all over the world.

2 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia Activities

International trading The number of stopovers for long haul boats slightly increased. The total tonnage of international products increased by +5,7% with 1,071,913 tons. How is the Port structured? construction of a “House of yachting” in • With its 5 docks, the Yacht quay of Papeete 2009/2010. Feasibility studies will begin on Inter-island trading (> page 22 ) is able to accommodate up to planned infrastructure for yachtsmen on further The total traffic of inter-island products 80 sailing boats. The port maintains a security development of the marina of Vaiare in (boundary included) is decreasing by -3.0% service which guards the quay 24 hours a day, Moorea. and reach 803,641 tons. The passenger traffic 7 days a week during the high season, from between Papeete decreased by -0.6% with April to September. Every berth on the Continuous improvement 1,694,288 passengers. yachtsmen's quay is equipped with modern of yachting activities facilities including water and electricity. The Port Autonome de Papeete has become International cruising Garbage collection is performed periodically. increasingly more involved in supporting The number of cruise ships stopovers in the • The Taina Marina located in Punaauia yachting activities in French Polynesia. Port of Papeete increased significantly (+33% (> page 23) is able to accommodate about 500 Its role of welcoming visitors has made the Port with 36 stopovers), with an associated increase sailing boats or motoryachts in individual berths the initiator and partner of many different in the number of passengers (+152,6% with or “Med-moored” along a quay. One quay is promotional activities: 37,121 cruisers). Inter-island cruising based in intended for superyachts. Marina facilities • The Tahiti Moorea Sailing Rendezvous Papeete showed a slight increase in the number include a fuel dock, a laundry, a harbourmaster's is a special event for yachtsmen organised by of stopovers (+4,2%): it reached 75 moorings. office, restrooms, three restaurants, a technical the Port of Papeete. During three days of Currently, inter-island cruising is available workshop, a chandlery , wireless Internet service activities, sailors will have an ideal aboard the liners Paul Gauguin, and many convenient stores near at hand. opportunity to meet the local population and Tahitian Princess and since the end of 2007, • The marina of Vaiare in Moorea (> page learn about their age-old customs. It features a aboard the sailing cruise ship Star Flyer . The 24), is able to accommodate 120 sailing boats sailing rally from Tahiti to Moorea, combined cargo ship Aranui III is also very popular and or motoryachts. It is mainly inhabited by the with cultural festivities on Moorea’s beach. enjoyable means of cruising between Papeete permanent residents, and can accommodate • Since 2006, the Port of Papeete supports the and the Marquesas Islands. 5 to 10 boats passing through Moorea. The Tahiti Pearl Regatta (in May) in the Leeward marina provides security service 24/7. On site Islands between , Tahaa, and Yachting services include water, restrooms and . The number of foreign motoryachts’ stopovers showers, electricity and garbage collection. • It also participates in other welcoming decreased by -1.8% in the Yachtquays of Many shops are located nearby. ceremonies for trans-Pacific rallies such as the Papeete with 556 stopovers. Puddle Jump, Arc 2008, BlueWater , etc. What projects are currently in • It is the co-organizer or partner of different Fishing progress? tours and promotional operations in the main Revival in the activity of foreign fishing boats Improving and planning on the Papeete nautical boat shows and directly promotes (+65%) with 137 stopovers. The activity of the Yacht quay docks; creation of a mooring area Polynesia as a sailing destination at Port related to local fishing decreased by -3% with about 60 “water wings” on ecological yachts clubs and marinas all over the with 965 stopovers. moorings in the fairway of Punaauia; and world .

Some Need more info? figures Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 3 >> http://www.portdepapeete.pf - 758.43 ha: the total surface of land and maritime boundaries of the Port Autonome de Papeete. - 5,400 m: the total length of quays and docks. PO Box 9164 - 1,876,000 t: the weight of products that transit every Motu Uta year on the different quays of Papeete. 98715 Papeete Tahiti - 200 m: The north berth’s length, where the cruising liner Queen Elizabeth II berthed in 2007 and 2008. [email protected] - XIX°: At the end of this century the first liners quay was built in Port of Papeete.

Sailing conditions Take the tiller with serenity

AS THE OFFICIAL EMBLEM OF POLYNESIA SUGGESTS , THE OCEAN IS THE ESSENTIAL ELEMENT AT THE ORIGIN OF POLYNESIAN LIFE AND CULTURE .

Apart from transiting the passes in and out of the lagoons, and being mindful of depths in the shallows, there are no major navigational islands can go down to 10°C during the dry The tidal range challenges in French Polynesian water. The season; in the Marquesas islands, the “Austral Apart from the Society islands, in the Polynesian country’s flag is composed of a double-hulled Winter” lasts from August to December; there is archipelagoes ,there is a lunar tidal range of canoe, which symbolizes the history of the great no “rainy season” in the Tuamotu islands. between 0.5 and 2m. The tidal range creates an Polynesian navigators, and five characters standing incoming and outgoing current that washes which represent the five archipelagoes: the Society , The wind through the coral passes of the atolls. Tuamotu , Austral, Marquesas and Gambier In Polynesia, the dominant winds blow more It can reach speeds of 6 knots or higher when islands . Located in the heart of the South Pacific, frequently from the east , but they tend toward there are big tidal ranges or when it combines turning seaward, these 118 islands and atolls are the northeast or the east from November to March with a heavy swell. Thus it creates a tidal bore at spread out over 5 million km 2 of ocean surface with speeds of 5 to 15 knots. The trade winds the pass entries. It is recommended to sail and cover only 4,200 km 2 of land surface. generally blow from the east during the cooler and through the passes when the water is slack. dryer time of year (April through October), with a The Society islands, and this is one of the major The climate tendency to blow from southeast during this period. distinctions of French Polynesia, are situated on Defined as marine tropical , French Polynesia’s In July and August, the southeast trade winds, what is called an amphidromic point , where climate doesn’t vary much: temperatures range which the Tahitian call the mara’amu are some- tides are only influenced by the solar between 24°C and 30°C all year long and its high times steady and strong with speeds of 5 to ocean tide (water level difference is 20 cm, or humidity (75%) is tempered by breezes. Thus 25 knots. Famous in French Polynesia, the 8 inches, with high tides at noon and midnight, Polynesia is affected by northeast and southeast mara’amu can blow for several days, forming every day of the year) . trade winds which converge in to the equatorial rolling swells between 1.5 and 3 m. This wind zone creating two distinguished seasons: the brings also colder temperatures (20°C at night). The Rescue Center of Human Life at Sea dry season and the humid season . The dry They are affected by the contours tall islands, (MRCC Papeete) season – also called “Austral winter” – takes and venturi effects may occur in the bays. ph. : 46 53 16 • Inmarsat C 582 422 799 192 place between April and October and brings an The coastal station of Mahina Radio provides a expected coolness (24°C and 28°C), July and The swell security early warning on frequencies: August being the coolest months of the year. The A long south, southeast swell , generally - BLU: 2182 KHz et 8279 KHz humid season – also called “Rainy season” – starts weak, can easily reach 2.5 to 3 m when tropical - VHF: 156,8 MHz, canal 16 in November and ends in March. It brings higher depressions blow over the south of the Emergency numbers humidity as well as heavier and more frequent archipelagoes. When this swell meets the sea of Fire station: 18 Police: 17 rains than during the dry season. Because of the wind from the east, the sea becomes agitated and Smur (Tahiti) : 15 Harbour control: 42 12 12 distance between them, some significant difficult to navigate. From November to January, List of useful phone numbers for each archipelago differences exist. The temperatures in Austral there is a weak north swell. pages 17 to 27.

Daily information Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 5

RFO transmits weather reports on Frequency Modulation at 89 and 91,8 MHz, in French only on AM at 738 MHz, at 5:55 / 6:57 / 7:57 / 10:30 a.m. and 5:55 p.m. Météo France : tél. : 36 70 08 (forecaster on live) www.meteo.pf in English only Mahina Radio : weather reports (BMS) Frequent and complete weather reports in English: • by VHF, after a call on Channel 16, move on channel 26 (Winward islands/South channel VHF 68 Moorings ISLV, at 8: 00 a.m. Marquesas) or 27 (Leeward islands/North Marquesas) at 8:03 / 8:33 / 11:00 / 12:00 on demand, VHF 10 Sunsail ISLV, between 7:30 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. a.m. and 6:03 / 6:33 / 8:40 / 9:00 p.m.; • by BLU on 8803 KHz at 8:45 / 11:00 / 12:00 a.m. and 2:30 / 4:30 / 8:00 p.m.; and On the web on 2182 KHz and then 2620 KHz at 8:03 / 8:33 a.m. and 6:03 / 6:33 / 9:00 p.m. www.windguru.com www.buoyweather.com www.meteo.pf MÉMO CLEARANCE (> p.11)

Entry clearance formalities have to be The Official clearance formalities of Inter islands clearance formalities formally completed at the “Gendarmerie” arrival have to be completed in the Port between Tahiti and the other islands offices in the first port of arrival (> p. 11): Autonome de Papeete : (except Moorea): • Provide the list* of all passengers and crew • Provide the list* of all passengers and crew • Provide the list* of all passengers and crew • Passengers and crew’s departure or arrival by • Passengers and crew’s departure or arrival by • Scheduled itinerary in French Polynesia aircraft, with details about the flights aircraft, with details about the flights • Detailed list of regulated or forbidden • Copy of the sailboat’s registration number. Exit clearance formalities products** • Clean bill of health of sailboat captain when boats at your departure from French Polynesia, • All passports with required valid visas are more than 40 meters long mandatory to get tax free diesel oil: • Detailed list of regulated or forbidden products** • Provide the list* of all passengers and crew • All passports with required valid visas • Passengers and crew’s departure or arrival by * providing details about the names, profession, date aircraft (with details about the flights) and birthplace, nationality, passport number. • Detailed list of regulated or forbidden products ** guns, alcohols, animals, seeds... • All passports with required valid visas

Sailing conditions Adapt your

navigation between EVEN WHEN NAVIGATION IS RELATIVELY EASY , one archipelago YOU MUST BE CAREFUL AND WATCHFUL . BETWEEN ONE ARCHIPELAGO AND THE NEXT , and another ALWAYS KEEP A LOOKOUT , ESPECIALLY IF YOU WANT TO AVOID AN UNPLEASANT ACCIDENT .

The Marquesas Islands The Tuamotu The Society islands Level of navigation: easy. Level of navigation: caution . Level of navigation: easy.

Situated at the outer limit of equatorial waters, Be careful when you are navigating between This is the perfect place for yachting. There is between latitudes 8° and 10° south, the the atolls which are visible at less than no lunar tide, most large are passes and Marquesas Islands don’t suffer from tropical 10 MN only : the current can be strong in the navigation is easy at any time (excepted at depressions, and cyclones are unknown there. channels between the atolls. ). A lateral buoyage system is used The weather is nice most of the time, and the On the 76 Tuamotu atolls, only some of them in the passes and at fixed points . Moreover rainy season is not very intense. Winds are have passes where you can enter. On the the fringing coral reefs allow a safe navigation usually steady, but they may be impacted by others, when southeast wind gusts blow or because they protect you from the swell in the steep contours of these mountainous when there is a heavy swell, there can be up to the lagoons. islands. The swell may be heavy, because the 6 knots of outgoing current. In addition, a tidal The buoyage system is important in the Marquesas are not protected by coral reefs. bore can be generated outside and inside the lagoons: you will see green buoys at In every group of islands, navigators usually passes. lagoon side and red buoys at the land sail during the day. side. Generally speaking, it will be better to sail into The navigation is quite easy, the coastlines the pass when the water is slack . You will In addition, you have to be careful when the are clear cut and step-to, sea currents generally see lateral beacons in the main Tuamotu sea is choppy in the channel between two flow to the W-N-W (less than 1 knot) yet are islands’ passes and sometimes even in the islands and beware of the shallows. reinforced in the narrow passage ( Bordelais channels providing access to a village. channel Hiva Oa/Tahuata). In every group of islands, yachtsmen usually But most of the time, in the lagoons, you will sail during the day between the islands across The islands are high and the leeward coasts navigate carefully, and with the sun very short distances. It is recommended to suffer often from light winds. The Marquesas behind you or during the midday sun. leave before 9:00 a.m , in order to avoid bad Islands have numerous bays which provide You will have a better visibility of colors and visibility in the passes and choose your good shelter from the winds but are often open coralheads, so you can pick out the poito , pearl moorings at the end of the day. to the dominant swells ( Beach landings can farms’ buoys. sometimes be a challenge! ). Shallows are silty In July and August, when strong east and Special sailing instructions: and secure. southeast wind gusts blow inside some of the BETWEEN PAPEETE ET PUNAAUIA ( TAHITI ) The Marquesans live close to the sea. Boating big atolls, the wind raises an interior swell. It is Every time you move your boat (entering in infrastructure, such as quays and docks, are recommended to moor at the east. As fresh the Port, leaving it or just changing your anchorage) , available in every inhabited island. Aids to water is very rare, we advise you to stock up you must ask permission from the Harbour navigation are rare: there are only port on water in the Marquesas Islands before control station on VHF 12 or at this numbers: entry beacons into the bays where the leaving and also to collect rainwater if the boat 42 12 12 / 47 48 50, because of the proximity access to the main villages is easy. is not equipped with a watermaker. with the international Airport’s runway.

8 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia Sailing conditions Respect

and THE UNSPOILED NATURAL BEAUTY HERE IS preserve UNIQUE BUT THE BALANCE OF NATURE IS FRAGILE . I T IS NECESSARY TO PROTECT IT .

An important regulation It is a question of good sense, of respecting our Know your rights and duties with In French Polynesia, there is an environmental environment, from a sustainable development the two leaflet (PGEM Moorea and regulation to protect the lagoons: the Marine perspective: PGEM Fakarava) when you arrive Space Management Plan (PGEM) . Moorea • Be watchful when you navigate on the in French Polynesia, available from was the first local authority which approved this lagoon and limit your speed. the local authorities. conservation measure in October 2004. • 5 knots must not be exceeded near the The seaside and lagoons are for everybody. The Fakarava, Toau, Kauehi, Aratika, Raraka,Taiaro coast (70 meters) and in protected maritime public domain is free to use but on and Niau followed the example of Moorea, and marine areas, and 20 knots certain motu (small islands), some signs other local authorities are working on their own everywhere else. TABU will tell you not to moor (Tabu plans: Tahaa, Faa’a, Raroia and Takume… • Be respectful towards the people and meaning forbidden) . It means you are on These PGEMs were defined in cooperation with the natural environment. private property and you are not welcome. the local populations (fishermen, lagoon tour • Moor on sandy bottoms and not on coral operators, yachtsmen, hotels) to determine bottoms. Anchor your boat according to For each PGEM, ask at the Town Hall of operating rules to be followed in all regulation, in the areas well marked with the local authority corresponding to the islands you will sail to. the yellow PGEM buoys to windward. place you are interested in (> pages 18 to 25). In Moorea, the PGEM manages the water from • If you dive or snorkel, you can admire the Game Fisheries Department ph.: 50.25.50 the littoral to the outside reef down to 70 fauna and flora but don’t touch it! [email protected] www.peche.pf meters. Each atoll is specific, so in Fakarava the • If you fish, respect the rules about the and also: PGEM is made to measure. The objective is to places and species you may fish or not. www.ifrecor.pf optimize the enjoyment of marine resources and • Ask for an authorisation from the www.urbanisme.gov.pf manage their use intelligently. department of culture and patrimony for www.temanaotemoana.org Its application is everybody’s business! marine prospecting. moorea.berkeley.edu

Be Watchful Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 9

Especially in Fakarava, pay attention to the mooring regulation: Forbidden activities it will be a reference for you when you will move to the other No matter how long the transit may be, mooring in the channels of navigation that islands. are marked or mooring in the passes is strictly forbidden, except in case of an BOAT MOORING REGULATION emergency. Mooring on the coral or at less than 200 m from the shore is strictly Mooring forbidden. Vessels which are not being used during fishing in the fish parks areas Mooring on the coral or at less than 200 m from the shore is strictly forbidden, and must stay outside of these parks in order not to disturb this activity. near the fish parks. Ask the Town Hall of the local authority corresponding to the Obligations place you are interested in. It is allowed to anchor in the mooring zones only. These Vessels with marine toilets must be equipped with a non polluting system and must zones are indicated on the PGEM map of each atoll by sign: “ZM”. This is the location of use biodegradable detergents as from January the first, 2008. the anchor and not the boat’s location that shows where the vessel is moored. Trash, even biodegradable, must not be thrown into the water.

Customs formalities Do not

overlook EVEN IF YOU HAVE FRENCH NATIONALITY , your obligations YOU WILL NEED TO FILL OUT FORMS . HERE ARE SOME GUIDELINES TO HELP YOU WITH FRENCH POLYNESIA ’S ADMINISTRATIVE PROCEDURES ...

The status for normal temporary the control of a boat grounded in Polynesian pearls and germs, cars, moped, stamps...); admission. waters. These documents are returned to the purchase for trading purpose ( more than 10 You are a tourist and you would like to stay for a boat’s owner when he returns. For example, if units of the same item is considered as a while in the Polynesian waters ? You can import your boat is uninhabited, with absolutely no purchase for trading purpose). your boat duty free for up to 12 months, entering one on board, it is possible to stop the one- Warning: this mesure is interesting if your only once or multiple times, within an overall year-clock and make it start again only when last port of call is Papeete. If not the period of 24 months. Time when your boat is you return to Polynesia to continue your Regularization Process by retroactivity could hauled out in a shipyard is not counted. voyage! be very long and complicated. You will have to • Your stay in Polynesia is nearing an end? show your item in the same time that the form For whom? You must now fill and drop off a departure is checked by the custom services. This legal framework targets the boats declaration at the Maritime Office of registered under foreign flags, under the name Immigration in Papeete or at the Gendarmerie Supply of tax free diesel fuel of an individual or corporate body with offices in the first port of arrival, or send it As a yachtsman, you can be supplied with normal residence outside of French Polynesia by mail to the Customs Central Board no later tax-free diesel fuel for your boat , provided and with no money-making activity than ten days before your departure. that you comply with specific terms and within the territory . Or, if the boat is not conditions. Two possible scenarios exist: registered, if it belongs to an individual or a Spare parts and goods • if you don’t name anyone to legally represent corporate body whose address is out of the Spare parts can be imported duty free as well you in completing the administrative customs territory. as goods listed below. Firearms are procedures to obtain diesel fuel in Papeete, prohibited but transit is authorized after you won’t be able to get tax-free diesel until Clearance formalities declaration. A document is provided by you arrive at the Port of Papeete to get ad hoc • As soon as you arrive in French Gendarmerie offices in first port of arrival to be authorization from the PAF. Polynesia , you must come ashore and fill out returned to customs in Papeete by mail. • If you appoint someone to legally represent your customs declaration and arrival Final clearance is obtained in Papeete. It you, you can get your tax-free diesel fuel. But declaration at the Maritime Office of is not possible to buy duty free goods before first you need to show the ad hoc Immigration (PAF) in Papeete or at the departure, except fuel in Papeete. authorization that the Port of Papeete gives to “Gendarmerie ” offices in your first port of Per person over 17 years of age: your representative. arrival. - 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigares or Your duly mandated representative must You also must send your arrival 250 grams of tabacco, deliver to the PAF agents, located at the Yachts declaration to the Customs Central - 2 L of wine, 2 L of spirit, bureau of Papeete, a master mandatory Board, or drop it off at the PAF. - personal effects. document, delivered and signed by the • On demand, your authorized stay of 12 Tax-free sales forms are available in most of captain of the boat and the original months may be suspended by the Customs the shops in Tahiti, if the value of the goods customs entry declaration, completed and Central Board in case of the boat owner or you are buying is higher than 5000xpf signed by the yachtsman. user’s departure, with certified boat excluding duties and taxes. Most of the goods TO MAKE THESE ADMINISTRATIVE PROCEDURES EASIER , immobilization, or if the owner deposits at can be buy VAT-free except: consumable goods A YACHT AGENT CAN HANDLE THIS PAPERWORK FOR the Customs service all the documents and (food, beverage, tobacco...); products subjected YOU : HE CAN ALSO HELP TO DEAL WITH THE TAX FREE documentary evidence that are necessary for to a particular control (weapons, unmounted DIESEL FUEL ISSUE .

The Ports Lights of entry and flags Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 11

In the Marquesas Islands When you arrive in a port during daylight hours, You are arriving in a French Territory, so it Nuku Hiva (Taiohae), Ua Pou (Hakahau), you must exhibit the international yellow Q flag is mandatory that you fly the French flag. Hiva Oa (Atuona) or the signal D.I.F. The Polynesians appreciate when sailors also exhibit In the At night, you must turn on the day signal or the Polynesian flag, and the Marquesans will be very Tubuai (Mataura), Rurutu (Moerai), Raivavae (Rairua) show a red light upper than a white light . happy is you also exhibit the Marquesan flag! In the Tuamotu / Gambier The maximum distance between Rangiroa (Tiputa), Mangareva (Rikitea) the lights is 1m83 (6 feet). In the Leeward Islands, Society archipelago Raiatea (Uturoa), Huahine (Fare), Bora Bora (Vaitape) In the Windard Islands, Society archipelago Tahiti (Papeete), Moorea (Afareaitu)

Phytosanitary Regulation A necessity to the THE INTRODUCTION OF IMPORTED SPECIES protect MAY HAVE NEGATIVE AND FATAL ecosystem CONSEQUENCES .

The Tiare Apetahi , flower endemic to the island of Raiatea, www. biosecurite.gov.pf is endangered.

Phytosanitary regulation Health animal regulation At the end of a six-month quarantine on During a stopover, you may have collected Without your knowledge, your favorite pet can board, the animals that have been treated as plant seeds or fruit, thinking it could be a good carry serious diseases and parasites that may mentioned get permission to go ashore. idea to plant them later. Now they are in your infect human beings. It is even more likely to bag and you are about to move to the next happen if you have visited Central America, Landing after a 30-days quarantine may port. South America or even the United States in the also be possible. last 6 months. Be careful ! The importation of plant However you must provide to the competent products, plants and seeds in French For security reasons, removing your authority a certificate of anti rabies Polynesia is regulated or forbidden , animals from your boat is forbidden . vaccination with: according to the deliberation 96-43 AT • The animal identification number, proving he (February 29, 1996). According to the Your dog, your cat and any other animal sailing has been vaccinated for more than 6 months ministerial order 741CM (July 12, 1996), the with you must be confined on board unless and less than 1 year before the scheduled date transport to the islands or between the you obtain permit to take the animal ashore of landing. islands of fruit, veggies, flowers or any other from veterinarians of the Service for Rural • The test results for determining the rabies vegetables such as plants and seeds is strictly Development, according to the article n°15 of neutralisation antibody; it should be checked regulated. the deliberation 77-93 AT of the 10 th of August, in a minimum of three months after 1977. vaccination and more than three months No matter how fetching or harmless they might before the scheduled date of landing, and at a seem, the importation of non native How to get the landing authorization? level more than 0.5 UI. species may put in jeopardy the The authorization after consideration of the phytosanitary protection of our islands . following documents, originals or certified true This protection is of vital importance to protect copies: the many endemic species that exist in French The animals who are taken Polynesia. This is why the boats arriving from a • Official document proving the date of your country infested with the Coconut Beetle departure from the last country you visited ashore without permission are (Center and South America, Fidji, Samoa, Tonga, infected by rabies (all Central America, USA in violation of the regulation. Philippines…) are inspected at their arrival and included, are infected). According to the law, they will treated if necessary, as specified in the • Official document proving the date of your deliberation 99-168 APF of the 30 th of arrival in French Polynesia. automatically be seized, killed September, 1999. • Tattoo or micro-chip ISO11784 documents and destroyed at the owner’s • Updated vaccination booklet expenses. To protect our islands against crops pests, you • A French Polynesian vet certificate that must imperatively declare plant products proves that the animal was treated against and plants to the staff of the Service for Rural parasites with Praziquantel with a dose of Development (SDR) or throw them overboard 5mg/kg (effective against Echinococcus sp before your arrival in Polynesian waters. more specifically), and against ticks.

Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 13 Immigration formalities Passports,

visas, IN FRENCH POLYNESIA , IMMIGRATION RULES ARE STRICT AND SPECIFIC . bonds, etc. ALL VISITORS MUST CHECK CAREFULLY BEFORE LEAVING HOME TO BE SURE THAT THEY HAVE PROPER TRAVEL DOCUMENTATION AND THAT THEY MEET THE ENTRY REQUIREMENTS .

Tourist Visa regulations Visas formalities depending on country of origin The entry and visitation of foreign citizens in COUNTRY DURÉE DE SÉJOUR French Polynesia is subject to the French order All EEC countries and Andorre, Australia, Allowed to stay 90 jours n° 2000-372 from 04/26/2000 modified on Brasil, Honk Hong, Liechtenstein, Macao, Malte, without visa (3 month legal authorization) 11/25/2004. According to this text and to the Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Switzerland, Vatican circular letter related to the implementation of Argentina, Bolivia, Brunei, Canada, Chili, Allowed to stay 90 jours the general rule on visas: foreign citizens are Costa Rica, Croatia, Czech Republica, Ecuador, without visa (1 month legal authorization) not allowed to stay more than 90 days by Guatemala, Honduras, Hungary, Japan, Malaysia, An extension for up to 60 gays must semester in French Polynesia. The day Mexico, Nicaragua, New-Zeland, Panama, be asked to the PAF. count starts from the date of arrival on the Paraguay, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, territory. No extension of visa is possible after South Korea, Uruguay, USA 90 days. Other countries Must obtain visa prior to arrival

It is also important to know that the Visitors who plan to stay in French Polynesia up to 90 days, should request a 90-day visa from consular visas delivered by Consulates or the French Consulate in their home country prior to their arrival. Embassies can’t be extended locally, whatever the visa duration might be. Amounts admitted as After a 90-days period, your visit is considered Maritime Office of Immigration (P.A.F) as well repatriation bonds as a long stay requiring a ‘long stay visa’ . as inter islands cruises (farther than Moorea) If you don’t have any return airline ticket to However, the Maritime Office of Immigration is and final departure. your resident country, that you could use as a not the appropriate authority to deliver this bond, you can go to the bank and pay the new visa. To get a visa extension, you have to repatriation bond’s amount. This amount to be ask for a long stay permit at the DRCL’s paid, varies based on nationality: directorate. Acceptance is subject to very OFFICE OF IMMIGRATION (PAF/I MMIGRATION ): • European citizens: specific rules. Maritime office (Port of Papeete): 195 000 XPF, i.e. about 2 300 USD. Crew and passengers entering the Monday-Friday 7:00 am-3:00 pm • American citizens: Polynesian territory must be in tel.: (689) 42 40 74 • fax: (689) 42 39 73 115 000 XPF, i.e. about 1 350 USD. possession of a valid passport. Airport office (Tahiti Faa’a): • Australians, New Zealand and Monday-Friday 7:30-11:30 am and 1:30-4:30 pm South Pacific citizens: Non EC citizens must additionally have a tel.: (689) 80 06 00 • fax: (689) 81 28 34 93 000 XPF, i.e. about 1 110 USD. return airline ticket to their resident HIGH COMMISSIONER / (DRCL): • Japanese citizens: country or deposit a bond into a bank on rue Jeanne d’Arc, Papeete, Tahiti 176 000 XPF, i.e. about 2 100 USD. arrival (of the value of an air ticket to the tel.: (689) 54 27 00 • fax: (689) 43 63 91 country of origin). Bounds can be returned at CUSTOMS REGIONAL OFFICE : These prices depend on the season and on the Papeete or in a departing island with a bank Monday-Friday 7:00 am-5:00 pm rate of exchange; they are given to you only as (Bora Bora, Raiatea...). All crew changes and tel.: (689) 50 55 50 a rough guide, based on the prices in mid- boat moves must be reported to the season.

14 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia The large yachts « Tahiti,

designed for FRENCH POLYNESIA IN THE HEARTH OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC , superyachts » OFFERS A CRUISING GROUND AS LARGE AS EUROPE WITH FIVE CONTRASTED AND FASCINATING ARCHIPELAGOES .

Very few large private yachts would venture in the South Pacific before the end of the eighties, mostly because of the lack of communication infrastructures. Things have now With very competitive prices and a capacity of changed: owners can keep in touch up to 3,800 tons, Papeete floating dry-dock can with their businesses at all times on become an ideal spot to plan regular board. maintenance jobs for large yachts visiting the Pacific area. All services, modern and The first modern world tycoon to cruise our experienced, are at hand: specialized yacht waters may have been Malcolm Forbes who agents, ship chandlers, repair shops, marine sent his 151' motor yacht Highlander in 1987 engine dealers, carpenters, reefer engineers, for a nine month transpacific crossing. sail makers… Another large yacht the people of Tahiti remember is the 282' Trump Princess . She came in Tahiti in 1988 and was an impressive sight in the then quiet harbor of Papeete.

Traffic has since then increased progressively to reach a top of 50 to 60 large yachts on their way to the America’s Cup held in Auckland, New Zealand in 2000 and 2003. Nowadays, an average 40 superyachts call at Tahiti every year.

French Polynesia is certainly one of the world’s At Taina Marina, the Port Autonome de best cruising destinations for large yachts as it Papeete has created a dock reserved to large offers an exceptional collection of stunning yachts (> page 23 ) that can accommodate up to anchorages, security at all times (no 18 units at the same time and offers all the hurricanes, no pirates!), deep tranquility, services found in the Med or the Caribbean. renewed pleasures for active visitors in a preserved environment (diving, fishing, The yachts and travel agencies have developed hiking, parasailing, surfing, windsurfing, a wide range of services and supplies to assist kitesurfing…), modern communication captains and crew in offering unforgettable and transport infrastructures and an holidays to their guests and passengers . interesting culture made of mixed influences from Polynesian, French and Chinese people.

Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 15 Tirage à terre (travelift 25T) • Gardiennage à terre sur Ber • Peinture carennes ou coques • Mécanique marine • Réfrigération • Sablage • Réparation voiles et tauds • Pièces détachées • Fibre de verre • Acier & inox • Aluminium • Usinage • Menuiserie • Soudure • etc.

Haulot (25T travelift) • Longterm storage in steer cradle • Slipway • Paint topside & bottom • Mechanical work • Marine electricity • Refrigeration • Sand blasting • Sail loft • Parts • Fibreglassing • Machining • Aluminium work • Wood work • Welding • etc.

tél.: (689) 600 545 • fax : (689) 600 546 ou VHF 68 [email protected] • www.raiatea.com/carenage BP 1111 • Uturoa Raiatea Polynésie française Nautic event The Tahiti Moorea Sailing Rendezvous.

THE PAPEETE PORT AUTHORITY AND ITS PARTNERS INVITE YOU TO THIS SAILORS RENDEZVOUS IN TAHITI AND MOOREA .

The Tahiti Moorea Sailing Rendezvous is a three-day event to welcome all cruisers to our beautiful islands, and to promote friendship and understanding of the Polynesian culture. This annual event, now in it's fourth year, aims to give a warm polynesian welcome to cruising sailors, while celebrating both their successful ocean crossing and the experience of sailing in the waters of Tahiti and her sister island.

The Tahiti Moorea Sailing Rendezvous gives the opportunity to our guests to discover through a friendly rally, the charm of arranged to welcome cruisers. All activities of Services , Tahiti Yacht Agents , Hertz, the our islands, their warm-hearted inhabitants this three-day event are free of charge, except Tahiti Yacht Club, Latitude 38 magazine , etc. and the richness of Polynesian culture. the optional Tahitian lunch. The itinerary includes a sailing rally in the Register at the websites : morning and a Polynesian canoe race in the This event is organized by the Port Autonome www.portdepapeete.pf, afternoon. There will be a variety of de Papeete , together with its partners: www.tahiti-tourisme.pf, festivities, including a Polynesian dancing, Gie Tahiti Tourism , the island of Moorea , www.latitude38.com, demonstrations of traditional Tahitian sports, the Town of Papeete and several private with your yacht agent, a luncheon buffet, gifts and more. All companies: Tahiti Ocean, Polynesia Yacht or directly at [email protected] .

Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 17

One of the most beautiful ground Useful informations in the world, as large as Europe... • Currency: Pacific Franc (XPF ou CFP). • Water: drinking water in the Marquesas, Each one of the 5 archipelagoes in French Rate: 1 euro ( €) = 119,33 XPF Papeete, Bora Bora and Moorea. Everywhere Polynesia – the Society (Leeward/Windward 1 USD ($) = 90 XPF. else: no drinking water. islands), Tuamotu , Austral , Marquesas and Banks are generally open from 8:00 a.m. to We advise you to buy bottles of water. – has its own character, but 4:00 p.m. (closed for the week-end), and you • Phone: (calling code) all of them are enchanting and attractive. can find cashpoints and exchange almost France: 00 33 + number The archipelagoes you are introduced to in the everywhere. United States: 00 1 + number following pages – Marquesas, Tuamotu, • Post offices: generally open from 7:30 a.m. Chili: 00 56 Leeward and Windward islands –, to 4:30 p.m. (depending on the islands). Japan: 00 81 correspond to the most frequented navigation • Shops: generally open from 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 Spain: 00 34 circuit. Depending on the Archipelago, you p.m. with differences between the islands Information: 44 99. will find either idyllic and wild anchorages, and the type of shops • Internet: In addition to the cybercafes, or quality nautical infrastructures, with • Electricity: 110 or 220V depending on the you can log onto Internet with a wifi everything you need at your arrival. islands (220V and 380V in some marinas). connection ( Hotspot, Iaoranet, Manapass ). From archipelago to archipelago Distance from Tahiti: 1350 km Area: 330 km 2 The Islands Main town: Taiohae Marquesas Main islands: LATITUDE 7°55/10°33 S OUTH , LONGITUDE 138°35/140°43 W EST Northern group: Nuku Hiva, Ua Huka, Ua Pou THE TWO PORTS FOR ENTRY TO THE MARQUESAS ARE NUKU HIVA AND HIVA OA, Southern group: FOR ENTRY FORMALITIES WITH THE AUTHORITIES . Hiva Oa, Tahuata, Fatu Hiva Level of navigation: NUKU HIVA : UA POU : Easy (see page 8) Anchorages: from October to February, the Anchorages: Safe anchorage at Hakahau bays in the south are more sheltered. The most (shops, restaurants, infirmary, Post Office, popular is Taiohae with a stable, if often rolling bank, airport) in the bays of Vaiehu and Uapo. TAHUATA : anchorage; and a small quay for disembarking in Don’t miss it: the flowering pebbles of Hohoi; Anchorages: water supplies and provisions at a dinghy (don’t forget to drop a small stern the King’s Valley (Hakamaii) with its tiki and Vaitahu (grocery store, infirmary, Post Office, anchor). Facilities available: bathroom facilities, majestic petroglyphs. no bank). Weather permitting, the bay of non drinking water, snack restaurant, yacht Gendarmerie tel.: 91 53 05 Hapatoni is to be preferred (small quay to ► services (washing-machines, mechanical work Dentist tel.: 92 53 58 disembark in a dinghy, grocery store, arts and shop, sail-loft...). Anchorage possible in the east Infirmary, Hakahau tel.: 92 53 75 crafts centre, marae ). Splendid anchorages in of the bay. From July to September, Hakaehu in Infirmary, Hakamaii tel.: 92 52 99 front of the white sand beaches on the north- the north is a better bet (possible to disembark Infirmary, Hakatao tel.: 92 51 04 west side of the island (Bay of Hamoenoa). at the mouth of a small river) and Anaho First Aid centre, Haakuti tel.: 92 54 91 Don’t miss it: the huge Catholic church; the (restaurant, water, fruit...) excursions to the bay First Aid centre, Hakahetau tel.: 92 55 12 remains of the fort and the cemetery for French of Hatiheu (statue of the Virgin Mary at an , agency Hakahau tel.: 91 52 25 sailors. altitude of 300m, restaurant) depending on the Bank Socredo, agency Hakahau tel.: 92 53 63 Infirmary, Vaitahu tel.: 92 92 27 ► weather, anchorage in the Baie du Contrôleur on Tourist Office tel.: 92 53 86 First Aid centre, Hanatetena tel.: 92 92 62 the West coast. First Aid centre, Motopu tel.: 92 92 36 Don’t miss it: Saturday morning (4:30-7:00 HIVA OA: a.m) small quay-side market in Taiohae; hike Anchorages: Atuona has a harbour (service along the paths marked by Marquises Rando . station with wharf, drinking water, car rental, Gendarmerie tel.: 91 03 05 grocery store). At the village, 3km away, there ► Hospital, Taiohae tel.: 91 02 00 is a medical centre, restaurants, Post office, Pharmacy tel.: 91 00 90 airport… First Aid centre, Aakapa tel.: 92 04 61 For a more isolated anchorage, the Bay of Infirmary, Taipivai tel.: 92 01 42 Takauku is near-by. Infirmary, Hatiheu tel.: 92 01 43 Don’t miss it: the cultural centres dedicated Air Tahiti, agency Taiohae tel.: 91 02 25 to Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel; the Museum Bank Socredo, agency Taiohae tel.: 92 03 63 of Traditional Arts ; the archaeological sites of FATU HIVA : [email protected] Taaoa and Iipona. Anchorages: without an airport, accessible Tourist Office tel.: 92 03 73 Gendarmerie tel.: 91 71 05 only by sea, it is an authentic island where life ► Marine Diesel station Total tel.: 92 06 18 Medical centre tel.: 92 73 75 is very simple. Omoa (at the foot of the majestic Nuku Hiva Yacht services tel.: 92 07 50 Dental centre tel.: 92 78 17 Mount Touaouoho) has an infirmary, a Post Marquises Rando tel.: 92 07 13 Infirmary, Puamau tel.: 92 74 96 office, a museum and a few shops. You First aid centre, Nahoe tel.: 92 71 70 disembark on the beach at the mouth of the UA HUKA : First aid centre, Hanapaaoa tel.: 92 72 32 river. Another possible anchorage is in the bay Anchorages: the best ones are situated in the Tourist Office tel.: 92 78 93 of Hanavave (magical, also called the Bay of Bays of Haavei, Vaipee and Hane (shops, Air Tahiti, agency Atuona tel.: 91 70 90 Virgins ). Small wharf for dinghy with drinking infirmary, airport) Bank Socredo, agency Atuona tel.: 92 73 54 water, grocery shop, church, first aid centre. Don’t miss it: the Papuakeikaha Arboretum ; Gas Station Temetiu tel.: 92 71 85 Don’t miss it: the walk to the waterfall at the the Sea Museum; horse trekking, a visit to the Cyber Services Laundry tel.: 92 79 85 far end of the bay; a must: the dried bananas or sculptors’ studios. Météo France, Atuona tel.: 92 73 78 the dried fish of Hanavave. Infirmary, Hane tel.: 92 60 58 SubAtuona Plongée tel.: 92 70 88 Infirmary, Omoa tel.: 92 80 36 ► ► Tourist Office tel.: 92 60 19 Marquises Création tel.: 92 70 77 First Aid centre, Hanavave tel.: 92 80 61

18 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia From archipelago to archipelago Distance from Tahiti: 300 km islands Area (including Gambier) : Tuamotu 1 000 000 km 2 LATITUDE 14°/23° S OUTH , LONGITUDE 135°/149° W EST Main Town: Rangiroa Main atolls: THE ATOLLS OF MANIHI , F AKARAVA , R ANGIROA AND TIKEHAU OFFER INTERESTING ACCESS Rangiroa, Fakarava, Makemo and Hao AND MOORING CONDITIONS AND THERE ARE PLENTY OF SIGHTS TO VISIT . Level of navigation: Caution (see page 8) MANIHI : RANGIROA : Anchorages: entrance to the lagoon is through Anchorages: administrative port of the the Tairapa pass in the south west. Sailing in the Tuamotu Islands , its huge lagoon can become vicinity of the pearl farms is not to be recommen- a rough sea when the south-east wind blows. TIKEHAU : ded (in the south and the centre of the lagoon) Access is through one of the two northern Anchorages: an extraordinary lagoon, ideal and these can be easily reached using the shuttles passes that are named after the two villages: for fishing and diving, accessible through one that leave from the wharf situated near the village • Avatoru (deep-sea wharf, marina, station, pass in the west (entry not advisable in a NW of Paeue (grocery store; diesel fuel at the shop, no quay-side delivery for more than 100L, shops, wind), Tuheiava, where mooring is possible quayside filling; infirmary, Post Office, no bank). restaurants, medical and dental centre...). near the motu Teonai. The fishing village is Mooring near the Tetarafa islet can also be • Tiputa (wharf, small marina, shops and local situated close to the pass. recommended. market). The current can reach a speed of 8 It is possible to anchor near the village of Don’t miss it: diving in the lagoon; pearl farm. knots. Enter the pass with an incoming Tuherahera in the south (wharf, quay, Town Hall tel.: 96 42 55 current or when the current is on the turn. municipal water tank for water supplies, shops, ► Infirmary, Manihi tel.: 96 43 67 Post office and Banks can be found in both limited fuel supplies, infirmary, restaurants) First Aid centre, Ahe tel.: 96 45 01 village. Good moorings in the east are opposite but in an east wind it is not to be Air Tahiti, agency Manihi tel.: 96 43 11 the Kia Ora , at the islets of Faama, Mauahatea, recommended; or at the islet, Tavania and at Air Tahiti, agency Ahe tel.: 96 44 64 Otepipi, Naonao and Mahitu, or near the islets the motu Aua, Puarua (the bird island, not of Kiroria, Atiati, Rahi, Hauone; and in the advisable if the birds are hatching ) and FAKARAVA : west (in fair weather) near the “blue lagoon”, Hiraumaine (fishing). Anchorages: famous port of call for navigators, motu Paio and motu Pomariorio. There are five Don’t miss it: the Teonai lagoonarium classified by Unesco as a Biosphere Natural dive operators in Rangiroa. The exceptional Town Hall, Tikehau tel.: 96 22 37 ► Reserve, there are now strict anchorage density of its marine fauna accounts for its Infirmary, Tikehau tel.: 96 23 49 regulations. Anchorage is only allowed in worldwide reputation. Air Tahiti, agency Tikehau tel.: 96 22 66 zones indicated as ZN on the PGEM map (> Don’t miss it: reef island; the ‘pink sand page 9) for each atoll. As soon as you arrive, beach’; a visit to the vineyard of Rangiroa and you must inform the Town Hall of your the church of Otepipia. position and inquire about the rules and Gendarmerie tel.: 93 11 55 ► regulations. Access to Fakarava is through the Town Hall, Tiputa tel.: 96 73 27 Garue pass (not to be attempted with a northerly Town Hall, Avatoru tel.: 96 83 43 wind and an out-going current) to reach the village Infirmary, Tiputa tel.: 96 73 96 of Rotoava (deep-water wharf, infirmary, post Medical centre, Avatoru tel.: 96 03 75 office, shops – quay-side delivery of diesel oil in Dental centre, Avatoru tel.: 96 03 75 barrels of 200L). In the south, access is through Bank Socredo, agency Tiputa tel.: 96 75 57 the Tumakohua pass (not to be attempted in a strong Bank Socredo, agency Avatoru tel.: 96 85 63 southerly wind) ; anchorage is possible near the Bank de Tahiti, agency Rangiroa tel.: 96 85 52 village of Tetamanu. Air Tahiti, agency Rangiroa tel.: 93 11 00 Don’t miss it: the old church built of coral; Shell Marine Gas Station tel.: 96 83 37 the ruins if the Governor’s residence... Tahiti Wine , vineyard of rangiroa tel.: 96 04 70 Town Hall tel.: 93 40 40 ► Neighboring atolls: Medical centre, Fakarava tel.: 98 42 24 Town Hall, Mataiva tel.: 96 32 57 First Aid centre, Niau tel.: 96 93 02 First Aid centre, Mataiva tel.: 96 32 57 First Aid centre, Kauehi tel.: 96 90 27 Air Tahiti, agency Mataiva tel.: 96 32 48 First Aid centre, Raraka tel.: 96 90 83 Town Hall, Makatea tel.: 96 91 60 Air Tahiti, agency Fakarava tel.: 91 70 90 Infirmary, Makatea tel.: 96 91 62 Fuel Wealth and Supplies diversity Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 19

• In the Marquesas (water, fuel, grocer’s): Each of the archipelagos possesses The Australs, situated in the volcanic prolongation of the - Nuku Hiva: Bay of Taiohae, gas station individual characte-ristics that give French Polynesia Cook islands, is an authentic archipelago with peaceful - Hiva Oa: Tahauku Bay, gas station its extraordinary diversity. The Society Islands have traditional villages, ideal moorings, such as in the Virgin • In the Tuamotu (fuel, grocer’s): landscapes varying between the modern city and deep Bay , Rimatara. Whales can be seen during the austral - Manihi: to the grocer’s, near the darse, small fuel cans valleys, majestic bays and white sand motus in the summer in Rurutu. The Gambier Islands, the farthest away - Fakarava: in Rotoava, delivery in barrels of 200 L middle of turquoise blue water. The Tuamotu Islands archipelago, is a mixture of green pastures, magnificent - Rangiroa: in Avatoru, gas station or delivery are made up of atolls, beauty in the wild, pink sand mountains and many marae to be found on most of the in barrel of 100 L beaches and low lying land; paradise for fishing islands. The Marquesas Islands, last but not least, with their - Tikehau: to the shops, small fuel cans (beware of ciguatera ) scuba-diving, snorkelling and wild and magic beauty, are composed of vast plateaus and pearl culture. sharp peaks surrounded by surging breakers. From archipelago to archipelago Distance from Tahiti: 180 km Area: 535 km 2 islands Main town: Leeward Uturoa in Raiatea LATITUDE 16°/18° S OUTH , LONGITUDE 149°/153° W EST The 5 main islands: Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa, Bora Bora THIS 5- ISLAND GROUP CONSTITUTES , WITH THE WINDWARD ISLANDS , THE SOCIETY ARCHIPELAGO : and Maupiti INTO THE ROOT OF CULTURE AND THE MAOHI HISTORY , THE HEART OF POLYNESIAN TRIANGLE . Level of navigation: Easy (see page 8) Society archipelago made of two groups of RAIATEA : island: to the west, the Leeward islands Anchorages: in the center of town Uturoa, a (Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa, Bora-Bora…); to the dock and a marina offer useful commodities: east, the Windward islands with Tahiti and Gas stations, hospital, medical services, shops, Moorea. The Leeward Islands has the principal restaurants… Getting out of Uturoa, to the sail-boat-rental companies, the sailing west, you’ll find the Apooiti marina (Dock, condition, the landscape diversity, the access to pond, pier, water, gas, laundry-wash, the culture and nautical substructures make restaurants, shop, technical support). this place a real paradise for sailors . The technical work zone of Uturaerae (with different work shops: hull, sails…; marina – HUAHINE : water, electricity). Recommended anchorage Anchorages: Avamoa channel and Avapehi are located on Tetooroa bay (fishing, surfing), channel both bring you to the principal town the Toamaro islets (snorkelling) and Nao Nao Fare (dock, Gas station, water, medic, shops, islets (nice beach, diving), Opoa bays (wharf at restaurants, banks, and a little market on proximity of the archaeological site Saturday morning). Taputapuatea) and Faaroa (going up river). If the dock is too crowded ( you need to ask Don’t miss it: hike up to Mount Tapioi; the dock manager before docking ) anchor in dive the Nordby wreck; visit the great Marae the sand in the center, or in Haavai bay facing of Taputapuatea , and a polynesian show at the Avapehi (if south or west wind). Hawaiiki Nui Hotel (reserve anchorage at Get to Avea bay thru the lagoon, a beautiful reception)… white sand beach in the south with many Town Hall Taputapuatea tel.: 60 03 60 ► anchorages on the way (Teapaa, Bourayne, Town Hall Tumaraa tel.: 60 25 75 Haapu bay-pier, water, grocery shop). Town Hall Uturoa tel.: 60 03 80 The two other channels bring you to Maroe Gendarmerie tel.: 60 03 05 bay (wild) and Faie (marina, pier). Town police tel.: 66 44 17 Don’t miss it: amazing departures of Uturoa Hospital tel.: 60 08 00 Hawaiiki’nui Va’a end of October/beg of Uturoa health centre tel.: 60 02 01 November; marae and sacred sites; fish catch in Dental centre tel.: 60 02 09 Maeva; Eden park; sacred eels… Pharmacy tel.: 66 34 44 Town Hall tel.: 60 63 21 [email protected] ► Gendarmerie tel.: 60 62 05 Tourist Office tel.: 60 07 77 Emergency tel.: 68 82 48 Bank Socredo, agency Uturoa tel.: 60 07 00 Infirmary tel.: 68 82 48 Bank of Tahiti, agency Uturoa tel.: 60 02 80 Dental center tel.: 68 79 11 Bank of Polynesia, Uturoa tel.: 60 04 50 Pharmacy tel.: 60 61 41 Air Tahiti, airport agency Uturoa tel.: 60 04 44 Mobil Gas Station tel.: 68 81 41 Poe-ma Insurances, agency Uturoa tel.: 66 42 25 [email protected] Gas Station Port tel.: 66 31 24 Tourist Office tel.: 68 78 81 Gas Station Tapioi Marina tel.: 66 32 32 Dock Manager tel.: 68 82 11 Hawaiki Nui Hôtel (restaurant, bar) tel.: 60 05 00 Air Tahiti , agency Fare tel.: 68 77 02 Haavitiviti Services (groceries) tel.: 73 12 15 Bank Socredo, agency Fare tel.: 60 63 60 Port and marinas: VHF: 12 / 16 Bank of Polynesia, agency Fare tel.: 60 63 51 Dock Manager tel.: 66 31 52 Bank of Tahiti, agency Fare tel.: 68 82 46 Apooiti Marina tel.: 66 12 20

20 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia TAHA ’A: BORA BORA : Town Hall tel.: 60 58 00 ► Anchorages: in the lagoon, you can sail all Anchorages: you access to the “Pearl of the Gendarmerie tel.: 60 59 05 around the vanilla Island , it’s a wonderful tour. Pacific” thru the only channel in Teavanui (up Town Police tel.: 67 70 41 Prefer anchorages in Tapuamu bay (well north-west), direction Vaitape docks, quick Infirmary, Vaitape tel.: 67 70 77 covered with a dock and a gas station, water docking possible (gas stations, marina, water, Dental centre, Vaitape tel.: 67 70 61 and grocery shop…); shops, med. care, restaurants…). Pharmacy tel.: 67 70 30 in Vaitoare (village and wharf); in Haamene bay Except the amazing Yacht-Club and it’s 15 [email protected] (village, dock, pier, yacht-club, pearl farm, anchorage spots close to Fare piti point Tourist Office tel.: 67 76 36 medic center); (anchorage, water, ice, laundry room, Air Tahiti, agency de Vaitape tel.: 60 53 53 in motu Toahotu, Mahaea, Tehotu, Tautau; bathrooms, internet), you’ll notice, it’s the only Total Gas Station tel.: 67 75 22 Patio (medical and dental center, bank, post, fresh water refill spot. Station Météo France tel.: 67 74 52 shops); Tiva (dock, water, groceries, We suggest refilling in Raiatea or Taha’a. Bora Bora Yacht Club tel.: 67 77 77 restaurant); Apu bay (south point, the Best anchorages are located close to “Pointe Bloody Mary’s tel.: 67 72 86 Taravana yacht-club , marina-dock, pier, Raititi”, the north part of motu To’opua (many anchorage, electricity, laundry room, artefacts from ancient god Hiro); Faanui bay MAUPITI : bathrooms, internet, bar-restaurant. (petroglyphs, marae ); the Teveiroa motu and Anchorages: Maupiti’s charms can be Don’t miss it: visit the “vanilla house” ; south, motu Mute. discovered going thru Onoiau channel down excursion with Vanilla tours; visit the Hibiscus The channel between motu are not practicable south (cross channel early morning up to noon, foundation for turtles , then an evening party at for ships that have more than 8ft deep in water, but avoid in case of big south swells). It will Taravana Yacht Club… and motu Tupe ( Lagoonarium ), Taurere bay, bring you into the lagoon suitable only for Town Hall Patio tel.: 60 80 80 close to motu Piti Uu Uta et Piti Uu Tai are shallow hulls, and cose to the village (find ► Town Hall Tumaraa tel.: 60 25 75 great anchorage spots. water, limited amounts of gas at Electra ). The Gendarmerie tel.: 60 81 05 Then, the great Bloody Mary restaurant Island has one dock in south of pointe Patito Town Police tel.: 60 63 22 offering anchorages. and 200 yards east, a wharf (Pauma). But the Fire station tel.: 65 61 00 Don’t miss it: the Marine Museum; best anchorage spot is close to the motu Tiapaa Medical/dental centre, Patio tel.: 65 63 31 snorkelling in the famous lagoon; and Pitihahei. Medical/dental centre, Haamene tel.: 65 67 51 Paul Emile Victor’s motu ; Don’t miss it: visit the marae ; swim between Pharmacy , Haamene tel.: 60 86 08 the arrival of the race Hawaiiki Nui Va’a (in the points of Puoro’o and Tereia that end to a Bank Socredo, agency Patio tel.: 60 80 10 Nov.) at Pointe Matira; shallow aera called Baby shark trail … Bank of Tahiti, agency Tahaa tel.: 65 63 14 the traditional Heiva (in July) on the main Town Hall tel.: 60 15 56 ► Tourist Information tel.: 60 81 66 place in Vaitape; Doctors tel.: 60 15 70 Taravana Yacht Club VHF: 68 tel.: 65 61 01 or for the bravest hike up to Otemanu Air Tahiti tel.: 67 80 20 Hibiscus Hotel tel.: 65 61 06 mountain… Tourist Office tel.: 60 15 55

Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 21

The marae Taputapuatea, in Raiatea “This marae is the father of all other sacred sites. Visitors coming to assist to the great ceremonies that were Let’s mention the presence of a sacred stoned loaded of It’s composed of different lithical structures made out of occurring. Historically, Taputapuatea was the center of mana – spiritual power – called Mata Rahi (the large eye), coral blocks that were taken right on the reef with fire religious and politic power of all Polynesia when the first different tikis, a shooting platforms, a 9ft monolithic burning big pieces of coral making them blow up. Europeans arrived. Then happened the exile to Hawaii, stone called Tepapateaiatu’ia . It marks the place where Theses structures are essentially made of different New-Zealand, Easter Island that constitute the Polynesian nobles were getting the symbolic red belt, the maro'ura , platforms and are disposed on over 300 yard, facing triangle . We date this back to the XVII th century. What to be named king or queen during ceremonials…”. Te Ava Mo’a channel. From there were arriving all island ever you interest with ancient building, you can only be In « L’Archipel de la Société. Tahiti et ses îles » , guide of the Pacific abroad canoes… amazed by the size of this site. by Emmanuel and Aïu Deschamps, Editions Le Motu. i T n h

P e a

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The marina Taina

22 T h e

P a p e e t e h a r b o u r i n

T a h i t i

23 From archipelago to archipelago Area: 1200 km 2 Main towns: Windward islands: Papeete, Faa’a and Pirae Tahiti in Tahiti. Papeete is the French LATITUDE 17°/18° S OUTH , LONGITUDE 149°/150° W EST Polynesia capital city. Windward islands: TAHITI AND MOOREA ARE THE MOST POPULATED ISLANDS OF FRENCH POLYNESIA . B ESIDES Tahiti, Moorea, Tetiaroa, THE GROWING URBANIZATION , THEY ARE MAGNIFICENT ISLANDS , THAT MUST NOT BE NEGLECTED . Level of navigation: Easy (see page 8) TAHITI : The second is the Tahiti Yacht Club at Arue . Anchorages: Because Tahiti is actually made up Berthing is available for boats up to 45ft. of two islands connected by an isthmus, we talk Anchorage space available also, as well as a fuel about it as two parts, Tahiti nui (the larger part) dock. Some annual highlights are: (> page 31) and Tahiti Iti (the smaller part, the peninsula). You will find berthing and mooring areas all the Heiva during July (a cultural festival with Papeete the capital (with modern urban around Tahiti: dances, chants, traditional sports, handicrafts); infrastructure as well as authentic cultural areas • Going around the west coast of the bigger The FIFO , (International festival of Oceanian – don't miss the market place downtown); the island: Outumaoro (piers and various services movies) in February; smaller portion, or peninsula, is located in the on land, long stays are forbidden for long the Billabong Pro Surf Contest on the famous south and contains a number of worthwhile stay),Vaitupa (dock, water, safe location), waves at Teahupoo in May/early June; archaeological sites.The public docks in Papeete Venus Point (not useable when winds from Tatoonesia , a tattoo art festival in November… are accessed through its channel (this can be north to south-west) and motu Aau. dangerous with a north, north-west swell • Along the peninsula: Nansouty islet, anchorage During the sailing season, the Tahitian Sailing running), Pass through Taunoa channel with its “la Boudeuse” , or anchorage “Bougainville” Federation organizes several different events. fishing docks. You must contact the harbour (where Bougainville anchored); Faratea docks The amazing Tahiti Pearl Regatta (in Leeward master before your entry in the port (> page 8) . in Taravao (docks, fresh water, fuel, grocery Islands) and the Tahiti-Moorea Sailing You will need his authorisation before crossing store); Tautira (village with water, fuel, Rendezvous are famous sailing events (open to the airport channel, especially for boats drawing grocery stores, a river which can be explored both local and visiting sailors). more than 18 ft of water. Yachts need to fly a and a nice) and its lagoon, the anchorage is yellow flag and their captains must go located at the south end, down river Aiurua, ashore and see the port, customs and basin of Vaiau (excursions to caves, and tel.: 47 48 00 ► Port Autonome de Papeete immigrations authorities within 48 hours of famous Surfspot called Teahupoo); Vairao PAP, emergency line tel.: 42 12 12 arrival . Yachts are welcome at Yacht Quay and docks (water, fuel dock, bathroom, shops…); Harbour Control Station tel.: 47 48 50 . at Bounty Quay in the center of Papeete (water, Phaeton docks ( Tahiti Nautic Center marina, [email protected] VHF: 12 / 16 BLU: 2638 Khz . electricity, Bathrooms are available). with designated docking spots, workshops, Yachts office tel.: 47 48 51 Administrative offices for completion of chandlery, laundry room, bathrooms, fuel Immigration (PAF) , marine office tel.: 42 40 74 paperwork are nearby. From this downtown docks, restaurants). Customs tel.: 50 55 50 location you can enjoy movies theaters, • Going along this big Island to the east: you’ll Sanitary informations tel.: 54 45 85 shopping, restaurants, art galleries, and all the find anchorages in Motuovini and Puuru islet Harbour master's office tel.: 50 54 82 other attractions of the capital…In this vicinity, in Papeari lagoon, Mataiea bay, and Atimaono Harbour Police tel.: 54 19 52 you'll also find many maritime suppliers and anchorage. Gendarmerie, Papeete tel.: 46 73 67 workshops where marine equipment can be Gendarmerie, Taravao tel.: 54 73 05 purchased or repaired. A fuel dock is nearby Don’t miss it: there are many different cultural Marine Gendarmerie tel.: 46 52 95 (close to the ferry docks). Note, however, that in activities in Tahiti ( Tahiti museum, House of Nautic Squad tel.: 80 37 00 order to purchase more than 1,000 liters culture in Papeete, James Norman Hall’s house ). Mamao hospital tel.: 46 62 62 (250 gallons) you will need to go to the Fare Also, sports (surf, hikes, va’a ), places to relax Paofai private hospital tel.: 46 18 90 Ute Gas Docks. Outside of Papeete two other (spas, beaches, cinemas, theatre, concerts…), Cardella private hospital tel.: 46 04 25 marine facilities are accessible to visitors: and a wide variety of places to dine. Taravao hospital tel.: 57 76 76 Marina Taina at Punaauia with berths and Check out the “roulottes” on Vaiate Place, close Dental centre tel.: 54 95 54 quays which can accommodate vessels of to docks. [email protected] unlimited size. Facilities include: telephone, There are many festive events all year long in GIE Tahiti Tourism tel.: 50 57 12 electricity, restaurants, fuel dock and Papeete and in other areas of Tahiti (and Air Tahiti booking tel.: 86 42 42 supermarket. Moorea). Fluid - Club de Plongée tél. : 85 41 46

the Marinas Finding 24 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia of Tahiti Diesel

You will find 3 full-service marinas in Tahiti, each well water, electricity, bathrooms, laundry room, • In Tahiti located with complete equipment professional facilities: fuel dock, bars and restaurant, workshop with professional - Papeete: on the dock, ferries quay • The Tahiti Yacht club is located in Arue, PK 4 craftsmen and also 2 dive center. This facility is equipped - Marina Taina: Total gas station accessible from the Arue’s and Taunoa’s channels (Pirae). to berth very large yachts. Contact tel.: 41 02 25; VHF: 09. - Tahiti Yacht Club in Arue: Shell gas station Berthing is available for up to 160 boats on 25 moorings • The Tahiti nautic center , is in Taravao’s marina, - Hitia’a: gas station next to small dock and 4 piers. Amenities include: fresh water, electricity, located in Phaeton bay . accessible from the Tapuaeraha - Taravao: in town 1 Km from Faratea docks bathrooms, laundry room, gas station, bar, snack, sailing channel. Up to 20 boats can be accommodated on the - Mataiea: nearby Tehoro dock school and diving center. Contact tel.: 42 78 03; VHF: 06. dock and in the anchorage. Amenities include: fresh • In Moorea • Taina Marina located in Punaauia, PK 9,5, accessible water, electricity, bathrooms, laundry rooms, fuel dock, - Paopao: Mobil gas station in Cook Bay from the Taapuna channel and the Papeete channel. restaurants, sailing club, specialised work shops. - Vaiare: Mobil gas station (on land) Berthing for up to 500 boats. Amenities include: fresh Contact tel.: 54 76 16. < The Taina marina (Punaauia).

TETIAROA : This is a wonderful place. Historically, it was the royal family’s residence. Then in 1966 the atoll became Marlon Brando’s property. Even though it still belongs to his family, its lagoon is in the public domain and is accessible to sailors. Access thru the tiny channel at the east, only on clear days (no large, deep draft vessels). Anchor toward the south end close to motu Rimatuu (avoid anchorage during south wind). You can go by dingy to other motu .

Attention!: MOOREA : But watch out: no allowed in the innermost Tetiaroa is a protected area (nesting area for Anchorages: We call Moorea the “sister part of the bay! various bird species and turtles). island” because of its close proximity to Tahiti. It’s forbidden to fish along the reef. Moorea is accessible from two different • in front of Pao Pao pharmacy, in front of channels. To the east, the channel between the Mareto beach (Entry via Opunohu Bay) in two islands is subject to crossing swells from front of Teavaro’s Town Hall. MAIAO : at 75 Km east of Moorea, it’s a little the east and south, making it choppy. Plus, it is • the little dock of Papetoai allows a short stop Paradise. But sailors and non-residents are not also frequently used by local ferries and cargo (dock, grocery store, post office, a famous welcome on the island. ships. The main channel will bring you to the Octogonal temple, the oldest in Polynesia). No hotels or restaurants. docks in Vaiare (facilities include a marina, Channels are not deep enough for large vessels. fresh water, electricity, laundry, bathrooms, Don’t miss it: the show at Tiki Village ; the Permission to anchor in the lagoon must be ATM, fuel dock, restaurants, hospital, sacred carvings from Tihoti facing the Papetoai obtained from the town council and visits supermarket). Safe access can also be made temple; a visit to the tropical plantation at the without a specific purpose are not through the north and northwest Channels. agriculture high-school; the archeological site recommended (forbidden for more than a day). Attention!: Moorea has a PGEM – Marine of Titiroa; Church called “Saint famille”; the Town Hall tel.: 56 02 55 ► Management Plan (> page 9) – that regulates motu Moea and Fare One… Health centre tel.: 56 02 50 the use of lagoon space and its resources. Town Hall Moorea tel.: 55 04 55 ► Check the PGEM map, which shows the Vaiare harbour VHF: 12 tel.: 56 26 97 protected lagoon areas the different fishing Marina Vaiare tel.: 56 45 58 zones. In the lagoon and protected areas Gendarmerie tel.: 55 25 05 speed is limited to 5 knots. Town police , Afareaitu tel.: 56 36 36 Town police , Papetoai tel.: 56 14 10 Authorized anchorages are: Fire station , Paopao tel.: 56 20 18 • In Cooks Bay: Mobil gas station with a pier Hospital, Afareaitu tel.: 56 24 24 (facilities include: water, fuel, groceries, Pharmacy, Maarepa tel.: 55 20 75 restaurants, shops, gendarmerie, pharmacy). Pharmacy, Haapiti tel.: 56 38 37 • In Opunohu Bay: a wild and beautiful. Don’t Paopao health centre tel.: 56 12 03 miss the excursion up to the belvedere for an Papetoai health centre tel.: 56 14 78 exceptional view of the two bays (Also Dental centre tel.: 55 22 29 available: horseback riding, excursions, www.gomoorea.com • [email protected] marae ...). Tourism office tel.: 56 29 09

Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 25 Directory of marine suppliers Construction and repair Shipyards: Alunox Marine tel./fax: 66 46 30 Raiatea Carénage Services tel.: 60 05 45 Plomberium plumbing shop tel.: 50 04 44 [email protected] [email protected] fax: 60 05 46 [email protected] Welding shop, all types of aluminum up to 25’, aluminum www.raiatea.com/carenage Plomberium plumbing shop tel.: 66 24 71 and stainless steel structures. Travelift: 25t. Hauling capacity: 120t. Sail and cover repair, Quincaillerie Hugues tel.: 43 04 55 Boat Maintenance et Services tel.: 74 95 60 spare parts, fiberglass, steel – stainless steel, aluminum, [email protected] • www.etshugues.com [email protected] carpentry, welding, bottom and hull paint, antifouling/ Hardware shop, stainless steel nuts and bolts, fishing gears Electricity, spars, engine repair, epoxy & polyester. varnish, sanding, engine repair, electricity, gas, refrigeration, Polybois tel.: 50 83 50 Cegelec tel.: 41 41 41 watch keeping, salvage and recovery… Marine plywood, plywood, waterproof cedar, all types of [email protected] Tahiti Nautic Center Taravao tel.: 54 76 16 wood (teak, mahogany…), marine varnish. Bottom paint, hull and engine repair, electricity, refrigeration . [email protected] • www.nautisport.pf tel.: 57 76 16 Polyfix tel.: 50 01 80 Chantier naval des îles (CNI) tel.: 66 10 10 Marina, wintering, marine shipyard, bottom paint, ship [email protected] • www.polypneus.pf [email protected] fax: 66 49 87 chandlery, engine repair. Screws, stainless steel A4 marine nuts and bolts, cleaning www.raiateamarine.com • VHF 72 Technimarine tel.: 43 02 22 products, security clothe and shoes, raincoats, Mirka & Hauling capacity: 25t. Polyester, epoxy, composite, engine [email protected] • www.technimarine.pf Abralon sand paper for plastic and wood hull. repair, electricity, electronic, bottom paint, osmosis repair, solar Travelift: 70t. Construction and repair shipyard, bottom Polyform chandlery / polyester tel.: 57 96 21 and wind generator repair, life raft certification, Mercury engine. paint and maintenance. Raiatea Express tel.: 60 23 23 Chantier naval de l’Océanie tel.: 43 10 42 Chandlery and supplies, Volvo penta and Yamaha engines. [email protected] tél. : 42 92 07 Chandlery, sail maker, plumbing, Raiatea Marine tel.: 60 00 46 Epoxy, polyester, hauling and bottom paint, osmosis, carpentry carpentry and other supplies: [email protected] fax : 66 28 41 Chantier naval du Pacifique sud tel.: 50 63 90 Aline Sport chandlery tel.: 42 97 11 Marine maintenance, chandlery, polyester, epoxy, electronic, [email protected] Api Yachting chandlery tel.: 42 18 10 gas and diesel engine repair… Construction, all repairs, gas and diesel engine repair. Avei’a sail/upholstery tel.: 66 14 04 SARL Chimecal tel.: 42 69 51 Marinalu tel.: 66 25 04 Cetel tel.: 43 89 99 Foam fabrication and cut, mattresses. [email protected] Electronic, radio VHF HF SSB, antennas, guaranty work. Sin Tung Hing Marine tel.: 54 94 54 All types of aluminum boats from 20’ to 70’. Fuller Christian carpentry tel.: 48 36 01 [email protected] Nautisport Industries Taravao tel.: 54 76 30 Ghibli Sail & Canvas tel.: 75 85 87 Ship chandlery, engines, tenders, paint… [email protected] • www.nautisport.pf Sail/upholstery tél. : 66 21 73 Siou Lee hardware tel.: 42 80 22 Marine construction, repair and aluminum welding. Nautisport Papeete / Taravao tel.: 50 59 59 Soc. Polynésienne de Miroiterie tel.: 43 64 60 Océan Carénage tel.: 42 18 10 Nautisport tel.: 66 35 83 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] • www.nautisport.pf Clear and colored Plexiglas cut, mirror Plexiglas. Sails: fabrication and repair. Upholstery: tarpaulin, cover, Garmin - Simrad - Navico: sail and repair, GPS, depth Tropic Froid tel.: 43 29 84 cushion… Spars: stainless steel and other cable. Engine sounder, radio VHF SSB, radar etc. ship chandlery, Refrigeration equipment sail and repair. repair. Bottom paint. electronic supplies… sail roller furling, cables, spars, Uturoa Marine tel./fax: 60 02 35 Patrick Lecler tel.: 71 84 18 windlass, ropes… Yamaha engine sail and repair. [email protected] Nicolas l'Ebéniste Moorea tel./fax: 28 46 23 Visserie Polynésienne tel.: 83 43 10 Boat maintenance: electricity, electronic, engine, polyester, [email protected] • www.flexiteek.com Screws, chandlery, fixing, drilling, marine stainless steel (A2 spars, chandlery, sails, paint & varnish. Flexiteek decks and carpentry. and A4), brass… Polynésie Marine tel.: 58 47 47 Ocean 2000 Marine tel.: 83 83 93 Vongues Emile ship chandlery tel.: 50 93 00 [email protected] [email protected] Polyester, carpentry, metal, boat renovation and Chandlery, engines, filters, propellers, plumbing supplies, TO CALL A NUMBER IN FRENCH POLYNESIA maintenance, interior and deck repair… hoses, antifouling… FROM OVERSEAS , DIAL THE INTERNATIONAL ACCESS Port de Papeete tel.: 54 18 52 Phaéton Voiles sail maker tel.: 57 66 07 CODE + 689 + LOCAL PHONE NUMBER [email protected] (hauling) .

26 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia Tahiti Moorea Raiatea - Taha’a

Power: Autochic tel.: 43 97 27 Raiatea Marine tel.: 60 00 46 MERCURY [email protected] Mercury. Polyform tel.: 57 96 21 Starting and service batteries, maintenance products, oil, Sin Tung Hing Marine tel.: 54 94 54 Raiatea Marine tel.: 60 00 46 plumbing… [email protected] Sin Tung Hing Marine tel.: 54 94 54 Chanson Import tel.: 42 57 40 Yanmar, Mercury, Apex, Plastimo. NANNI DIESEL [email protected] Sodiva tel.: 50 87 00 Sopom tel.: 42 99 69 Solar panels, battery regulators, wind generators. Caterpillar. PLASTIMO PSA Batteries batteries tel.: 42 47 22 Sopom tel.: 42 99 69 Sin Tung Hing Marine tel.: 54 94 54 Tahiti Piles et Lumières tel.: 43 83 70 Baudouin, Nanni Diesel. SUZUKI Small batteries, service batteries, lamp bulbs… Sopomeca tel.: 45 10 55 Nautisport Papeete / Taravao tel.: 50 59 59 Technopro tel.: 82 94 98 Baudouin, Cummings Marine, Mercruiser. Nautisport tel.: 66 35 83 [email protected] Tahiti Nautic Center Taravao tel.: 54 76 16 Tahiti Nautic Center Taravao tel.: 54 76 16 Electric equipment and Unisolar solar panels. Evinrude/ Johnson, Suzuki, Volvo Penta. TOHATSU Tenesol Polynésie / Soler Energie tel. : 54 85 85 Technimarine tel.: 43 02 22 Océan 2000 Marine tel.: 83 83 93 [email protected] • www.tenesol.com Maintenance and repair, all brands. Polynésie Marine tel.: 58 47 47 Solar panels, batteries, regulators, wind generators… Teihotua Ets. tel.: 42 00 36 Vanfau tel.: 43 80 62 Fishing and diving gears: . Moteurs Lester-Petter. VOLVO ET PENTA Havai’i Sport sports and fishing tel.: 60 25 20 Uturoa Marine tel./fax: 60 02 35 Nautisport Papeete / Taravao tel.: 50 59 59 Magasin Tavita tel.: 42 99 71 Yamaha, sail and maintenance. Nautisport tel.: 66 35 83 [email protected] Vanfau tel.: 43 80 62 Raiatea Express tel.: 60 23 23 Fishing gears, stainless steel nuts and bolts. Tohatsu. Tahiti Nautic Center Taravao tel.: 54 76 16 Nautisport fishing and diving gears tel.: 50 59 59 Vongues Emile & fils tel.: 50 93 00 WARTSILA Nautisport fishing and diving gears tel.: 66 35 83 Mariner. Chantier naval du Pacifique sud tel.: 50 63 90 Tahiti Plongée diving gears tel.: 41 00 62 YAMAHA Marine engines (by brand): Chantier naval des îles (CNI) tel.: 66 10 10 Marine engines: APEX Raiatea Express tel.: 60 23 23 Api Yachting tel.: 42 18 10 Sin Tung Hing Marine tel.: 54 94 54 Uturoa Marine tel./fax: 60 02 35 Chantier naval des îles (CNI) tel.: 66 10 10 BAUDOUIN YANMAR Mercury, Yamaha. Sopom tel.: 42 99 69 Sin Tung Hing Marine tel.: 54 94 54 Chantier naval du Pacifique sud tel.: 50 63 90 Sopomeca tel.: 45 10 55 Wartsila. CATERPILLAR Various services: Nautisport Papeete / Taravao tel.: 50 59 59 Sodiva tel.: 50 87 00 Boat Maintenance and Services tel.: 74 95 60 Nautisport tel.: 66 35 83 CUMMINGS MARINE [email protected] • watch keeping, transport, provisioning. Suzuki, Evinrude/Johnson, Volvo Penta, marine and Océan 2000 Marine tel.: 83 83 93 Fluid tél. : 79 02 05 electronic chandlery… Sopomeca tel.: 45 10 55 [email protected] • Hull submarine cleaning for all boat, Océan 2000 Marine tel.: 83 83 93 EVINRUDE ET JOHNSON and private dive guide (Taina Marina). Cummings Marine, Tohatsu. Nautisport Papeete / Taravao tel.: 50 59 59 Iaoranet tel.: 20 14 86 Polynésie Marine tel.: 58 47 47 Nautisport tel.: 66 35 83 Computer installation, maintenance and repair, laptop and [email protected] Tahiti Nautic Center Taravao tel.: 54 76 16 desktop, network. On board computers, navigation software, Tohatsu outboard engines, Kipor and Honda portable and MARINER NMEA networks. soundproof power generators, fishing gears… Vongues Emile & fils tel.: 50 93 00 International express courier: Raiatea Express tel.: 60 23 23 MERCRUISER DHL tel.: 80 31 80 Volvo Penta, Yamaha. Sopomeca tel.: 45 10 55 Fed Ex (Global Air Cargo) tel.: 43 36 45 UPS (J.A. Kowan & Fils) tel.: 54 57 00 Consular représentation in Tahiti Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 27

United States , Mr. KOZELY, tel.: 426 535, Germany , Mr. FLACH, tel.: 777 100 Italia , Mrs. GROLLI, tel.: 434 501, [email protected] Ostrich , Liechtenstein , Switzerland , [email protected] Canada , Australia , Mr. SIU, tel.: 468 806, Mr. MAETZ, tel.: 439 114, [email protected] Norway , Mrs. SIU, tel.: 428 972, [email protected] [email protected] Belgium , Mr. RAYNAL, tel.: 50 65 65 Pays Bas , Mr. DEN BREEJEN, tel.: 424 937 Chili , Mrs. DIVIN DE NAVARRO, tel.: 430 481 Denmark , Me GIRARD, tel.: 540 454 Sweden , Mr. SOLARI, tel.: 475 475, China , Mr. CHANG, tel.: 45 61 79 Spain , Mr. LAO, tel.: 778 540 [email protected] Korea , Mr. BAUDRY, tel.: 436 475, [email protected] Finland , Mr. FOURCADE, tel.: 534 350 Israel , Mr. COHEN SOLAL, tel.: 424 100 Japan , Mr. FAUGERAT, tel.: 454 545 United Kingdom, Mr. ALLAIN, tel.: 706 382 New Zeland , Mrs. BOLE, tel.: 540 740

Nautical life Fishing ,

a Polynesian BOTH THE OFFSHORE WATERS AND LAGOONS OF POLYNESIA passion ARE IDEALLY SUITED TO ALL SORTS OF FISHING . BUT THE ENTIRE TERRITORY IS REGULATED IN ORDER TO PROTECT FISHERY RESOURCES .

An ocean and lagoons • Net-fishing is a form of fishing with many • Stake nets or traps for fishes are with incredible richness variations: gillnet or parava , where the fish is widespread in the Tuamotu and in the Leeward From the pearl of Tahiti, with the magnificent jammed in the meshes of the net (the surgeon Islands. They usually represent more than 80% range of colors that made it famous, to the parrot fishes, goatfishes, runners); funnel net of a day’s catch. They are often installed on the mother-of-pearl and mother-of-pearl oyster that that leads to a bow-net; surrounding net fa’a’ati sides of the fairways or in the channels the Polynesian artists and craftsmen craft into with little mesh or beach seine to catch ature , between the motu . artwork, you can admire a wide range of sealife ouma and ina’a at Tahiti and uhu raepu’u , • The potting or fishing with bow-net , in both the lagoons and deeper water offshore. marava, mata anaana and nanue at the fa’a , is used to catch surgeonfish para’i , perch Fish, crustaceans and other sea creatures are Tuamotu, or net-casting upe’a taora for young to’au , or green crab ’upa’i . part of the traditional Polynesian diet. surmullets ouma, mullets aua or runners harehare that travel along the beaches. Resources to be protected • Line fishing is done in different ways: a The lagoons shelter very important sources of hand-line with one or several fish hooks, hand- Consumption: some good advice! food for the local population, but all the line fishing, trolling, bottom line, fishing with Most of the fishes caught in French Polynesia resources are not exploited in the same way. artificial decoys, fishing with natural bait, are delicious and harmless, but you must be Some species are more coveted, and therefore fishing with living bait, fishing with lamparo, very careful with some fishes, such as Maito more threatened. The website of the fishery casting, etc. (the surgeon fish). When preparing this fish, office ( > www.peche.pf ) is quite detailed, Do not hesitate to drag a fishing line cut the sting that is at the back of its tail, containing a great deal of information about during your crossing between the which is very sharp: if there is blood, the fish underwater fauna. islands, mahi mahi, albacore and yellowfin is poisoned; if there is no blood, the fish is tuna, wahoo, are numerous. edible. In regard to big fish, found in deep Some techniques of fishing In each archipelago, you can contact charter water, if you see many flies, trying to land on Fishing has always been a favorite activity in companies that propose excursions to go it, your fish is good; likewise, give a piece of Polynesia. That is why techniques and the baits fishing, including catching sailfish. your fish to ants ashore and if they eat it, you have been adapted specifically for catching • Harpooning on a poti marara is an can do the same. specific types of fish or crustaceans. experience that cannot be ignored! Be careful of the lagoon fish that can carry Here are some examples: Ask a fisherman to go with him. It is a good ciguatera. The big carnivores (groupers, • The shellfish gathering, which is greatly chance to see a mahi mahi and to appreciate its runners, barracudas) are more frequently diversified, consists of the gathering of maoa beautiful golden colors. poisoned by this toxin and are generally on the reef, fishing for crayfish by night with The mahi mahi is a common dolphin-fish (that thrown back by fishermen in risk-prone areas. lampara , fishing with a harpoon or knife on can weigh 40 kg) and a poti marara is a typical For example, it is better to fish for orange and the reef, hand gathering of shellfishes, etc. Tahitian boat used for fishing flying fishes (the grey triggerfish than the one which is • Dive fishing can be done with bare hands marara ) and mahi mahi (it is pronounced completely grey. (gathering of sea cucumbers, the rori for example); [maï-maï ]). The Polynesians do not hesitate to Do not hesitate to ask the local fishermen with a tool (sea urchins, vana , with a hook or sail alone hundred of kilometres on their boats which fishes you can consume. giant clams, the pahua , with a screwdriver); or that measure only 7.5 meters maximum. The Polynesians know well their ocean and also with a speargun (highly appreciated species, lagoons very well. They have irreplaceable the unicornfishes ume , the soldierfishes i’ihi and knowledge and experience. the parrot fishes uhu are caught with this technique. Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 29 Regulation (size and period of fishing): Respect the minimum size of capture CRUSTACEANS minimum size forbidden authorised on conditions Freshwater prawn 6 cm from Nov to Feb from Mar to Oct and release females that have eggs. Slipper lobster 14 cm from Nov to Jan from Feb to Oct Mud crab 12 cm from Nov to Jan from Feb to Oct Spiny lobster 18 cm from Nov to Jan from Feb to Oct Mantis shrimp 18 cm from Nov to Jan from Feb to Oct MOLLUSCS minimum size forbidden Giant clam 12 cm Green snail and Trochus all the year FISH minimum size forbidden Tel.: 50 25 50 • Fax: 43 49 79 Freshwater perch 12 cm from Nov to Feb email : [email protected] • web site : www.peche.pf

Nautical life The nautical events

IN FRENCH POLYNESIA , THERE IS ALWAYS SOMETHING TO DO ON THE WATER . SURFING , PADDLING A POLYNESIAN DUGOUT CANOE , SAILING IN A REGATTA , FISHING IN A CONTEST ... T HEY ARE MANY CHOICES .

The Tahiti Pearl Regatta [TPR], The Raiatea International Billfish The surfing competitions, held in the Leeward Islands, is an annual Tournament [RIBT] and the Tahiti held here are often for professionals, but surf international regatta, which attracts sailors International Billfish Tournament [TIBT], spots are accessible all the rest of the year: from Polynesia, America, Japan, New-Zealand, are real challenges between fishermen and big Billabong Pro, Taapuna Surf Pro AM... Australia, European or elsewhere. It is both a deep-sea fishes. This fishing competition Website: www.surf.pf series of race and a festive event which ends in follows the IGFA rules, which contribute to the the Bora Bora lagoon. Sailors with any level of protection of the animals, which live in the And all the other things...! expertise can participate aboard mono-hulls or seabed. Websites: www.go-tahiti.com and The race of the sail canoes during the Heiva in catamarans, because the various categories of www.hauraclub-fishing-tahiti.com July, the commemoration of the Bounty arrival, classification enables everybody to try their the discovery of whales in the Austral Islands luck. The alternation of races within the lagoon The va’a races, or the Society Islands, the ature season that and offshore offers a wide range of Outrigger canoe racing, is the national sport, offers miraculous fishing... unforgettable experiences. and the Polynesians are the best in the whole Websites: Website: www.tahitipearlregatta.org.pf Pacific. There are races throughout the year. www.tahiti-tourisme.com The Hawaiki Nui Va’a is the supreme trial, www.papeeteonline.com Le Tahiti Moorea Sailing Rendezvous, with the Hinano Cup Va’a , the Heemoana www.tahitiguide.com Refer to the poster inserted between Race , or the Super Aito . www.fedetahitivoile.com pages 16-17. Website: www.portdepapeete.pf Website: www.hawaikinuivaa.pf www.moanaevasion.pf

Nautical life Basic bibliography

TO BEGIN OR TO CONTINUE YOUR TRIP , MANY BOOKS CAN ENABLE YOU TO BROADEN YOUR KNOWLEDGE ABOUT FRENCH POLYNESIA .

Bounty Trilogy Ancient Tahiti Breadfruit - Frangipani - Tiare Written by Charles Nordhoff and James Documents and notes collected by Reverend 3 novels written by Célestine Hitiura Vaite. Norman Hall. Little, Brown and Company. J. M. Orsmond, completed and published by Text Publishing Co. Teuira Henry; Bernice P. Bishop Museum. Typee: A Peep at Polynesian Life Guide to Navigation and Tourism Written by Hermann Melville, introduction An account of the Marquesas islands in French Polynesia and commentary by John Bryant. 1797-1799 . (Marquesas, Tuamotu, Gambier, Societies - Penguin Classics. Written by William Pascoe Crook, with Tahiti, Australs) forewords by Greg Dening, H.-M. Le Cleac'h, Written by Patrick Bonnette and Emmanuel We, the Navigators: The Ancient Art of an editorial note, a short biography by Douglas Deschamps. A. Barthélémy and Le Motu. Landfinding in the Pacific Peacocke, a preliminary discourse by Samuel Written by David Lewis. Greatheed. Haere Po. Guide des poissons de Tahiti et ses îles University of Hawaii Press. [Tahiti and her islands fish guide] Teahupoo: Tahiti's Mythic Wave Photography and notes by Philippe Bacchet, Hokulea: The way to Tahiti Photography by Tim Mc Kenna, written by Thierry Zysman et Yves Lefèvre. Written by Benn R. Finney. Dodd, Mead. Guillaume Dufau. White Star Publishers. Au Vent des îles.

Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 31