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Home , 7 Eccles Street, Benbaun, Callows, Hilltop castle, Horn Head, Mizen Head

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1 The Best of from $60 a Day

The Irish landscape remains breathtaking, its natural beauty intact, its rivers and lakes more or less pollution-free, and its people disarmingly gracious. These are the essential components of Irish tourism, and they’re what bring 3.6 million vis- itors to Ireland each year, an ever-growing number that currently equals Ireland’s population. Irish hospitality, in particular, is legendary, and deservedly so. But beyond those seemingly timeless qualities, much of the country is chang- ing rapidly. Twenty years ago, life in Ireland’s rural west resembled the 19th cen- tury more than the 20th. Small farms were still the norm, and some remote areas had yet to receive electricity and running water. These days tourism and foreign investment have brought a new prosperity, and the country is changing fast. Computer firms employ the children of farmers, and the traditional cottage is being replaced in most places by modern bungalows. New restaurants and places to stay sprout from the fields like mushrooms, and yesterday’s quiet seaside retreat is today’s bustling resort town. The whole country is lunging into the 21st century at a pace that leaves most visitors—and many natives—feeling a lit- tle bewildered. There’s so much happening in Ireland these days that it can be hard to get your bearings. Within this exciting, shifting land, we’ve worked to find some constants—some things you can count on. So consider this a starting point, a springboard for your explorations and a base from which to build your own list of Irish favorites.

1 The Best Picture-Postcard Irish Towns • Dalkey (County ): This center housed in its stables—draw charming south-coast suburb of visitors from both Ireland and Dublin enjoys easy access to the abroad. Kilkenny, however, is no city and freedom from its snarls museum and is regarded by many and frenzy. It has a hilltop , as perhaps the most attractive an island, and a few parks, all in large town in Ireland. See chap- ample miniature. With all the fine ter 6, “The Southeast.” and simple restaurants, pubs, and • (County ): Kinsale’s shops anyone needs for a brief narrow streets, dropping steeply visit or a long stay, Dalkey is a from the hills that rim beautiful tempting town to settle into. See Kinsale Harbor, all lead to the sea. chapter 4, “Dublin.” This is undoubtedly one of • Kilkenny (County Kilkenny): Ireland’s most picturesque and Kilkenny offers the best Irish picture-perfect towns, and the example of a medieval town. Its myriad visitors who crowd walls and splendidly restored the streets every summer attest to castle—with a renowned design the fact that the secret is out. The 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND FROM $60 A DAY

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8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND FROM $60 A DAY

walk from Kinsale through Scilly concentration of fine restaurants to Charles Fort and Frower Point outside Dublin. See chapter 8, is breathtaking. Another plus: “Out from Cork. Kinsale has Ireland’s greatest

2 The Best Tiny Seaside Villages • Ardmore (): from the bay. Brandon sits in the Ardmore is best known for its shadow of Mt. Brandon, Ireland’s complex of medieval ruins, second highest mountain, and just including a beautiful round tower down the road from the great and a chapel with a remarkable set ocean views at Brandon Point. See of carvings on its gable. The town chapter 9, “The Southwest: itself is clustered around a sandy .” bay between craggy headlands. See • (): chapter 6, “The Southeast.” There are outstanding beaches • and Union Hall and coastal scenery within walk- (): These two stun- ing distance of this resort town on ning port towns, which face each Ireland’s northern coast. Don’t other across the waters of beautiful miss the Drive, or the Glandore Harbour, are connected traditional music that bursts into by an intimidating one-lane spontaneous life most nights in bridge. Glandore consists of streets Dunfanaghy or nearby Falcarragh. stepping steeply to the sea, and on See chapter 13, “The Northwest.” the port, a hotel, and a locally • Glencolumbkille (County Done- renowned gourmet restaurant. gal): Modern conveniences, such Union Hall’s busy main street is as electricity, came only recently filled with humbler establish- to this village on a tiny cove ments, including a few memorable among the mountains of south- pubs. See chapter 8, “Out from west Donegal, and there’s still a Cork.” sense of stepping back in time • Brandon (County Kerry): This when you enter some of the local town is so small, you could easily pubs and shops. Don’t miss the miss it if you didn’t know it was Folk Museum, which preserves here. Grab a seat at Murphy’s Pub the past in a reconstructed village on the pier and enjoy a pint while of thatched cottages. See chap- you watch the fishermen come in ter 13, “The Northwest.”

3 The Best Free Attractions & Open Sites • National Museum of Ireland • Trinity College (Dublin): (Dublin): This is where most of Although you do have to pay to the nation’s archaeological treas- enter the Old Library, where the ures are kept—the Ardagh Chal- renowned Book of Kells is dis- ice, the Tara Brooch, the Cross of played, the rest of this historic Cong. There’s no better place to campus is free and open for you to get in touch with Dublin’s past, explore. As soon as you pass from the first Viking settlement to through the gates, you leave the the Easter Rising of 1916. On the noises of the city behind and enter same block are the (also free) another world. Watch a cricket National Gallery and Natural match in the College Park, and History Museum. See p. 138. stroll through the college’s cob- bled squares. See p. 139. 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 9

THE BEST FESTIVALS & SPECIAL EVENTS 9

• Kells (County Kilkenny): This • Black Fort (): The priory and fortified town is one of dramatic 220-foot (67m) long wall Ireland’s most spectacular medieval of this promontory fort cuts off ruins. Because there’s no visitor access to a small peninsula on center, you’re on your own to Inishmore. Its site is spectacular and explore and to interpret what you the defensive field of sharp stones see; a small book available at the that makes up its front yard is well town post office offers assistance worth negotiating. See p. 418. with the interpretation. See chap- • Carrowkeel (): ter 6, “The Southeast.” Eerily isolated atop several steep • Athassel Priory (County Tipper- hills, and connected by sight with ary): The largest medieval priory in nearby Maeve’s Tomb atop Ireland, Athassel is spread in ruins and the Neolithic over 4 acres. Although it’s not as tombs of Carrowmore, this collec- well preserved as Kells, there’s still a tion of passage tombs is among lot here to explore, and the pictur- the earliest surviving records of esque stones are sure to excite your Ireland’s prehistoric peoples. A imagination. Rarely visited, it’s in visit here is an experience not to the middle of a field, on a quiet be missed. See p. 438. back road near Cashel. See p. 240.

4 The Best Festivals & Special Events • Fleadh Cheoil na hEireann (loca- the chance to see the best in tion varies; the 2002 festival will be current Irish drama, as well as an in Listowel, County Kerry): This is assortment of international pro- an all-Ireland traditional music ductions. Several famous Irish competition, which also attracts plays, such as Brian Friel’s Philadel- performers from around the world. phia Here I Come, have premiered Usually taking place over 2 days in here and gone on to performances August, it’s well worth a detour. For throughout the world. See p. 153. information on this and the many • Wexford Festival Opera (Wex- other Fleadh (traditional music fes- ford): During the last 2 weeks of tivals) that take place throughout October, the otherwise quiet Ireland, contact Comhaltas streets of Wexford are filled with Ceoltóirí Éireann, 32 Belgrave an international crowd that flocks Sq., Monkstown, here to enjoy this curious event: (& 01/2800295). See p. 42. first-rate performances of little- • (Dublin): From June known operas in a small Irish 12 through 17 of each year, town. That’s Ireland for you—full Dubliners meet to celebrate their of delightful experiences in the city and its greatest writer, James most unlikely places. See p. 211. Joyce, whose novel • Galway Arts Festival (Galway): takes place on this day. Events The largest festival of its kind in Ire- include tours retracing the steps of land, this raucous event fills Galway and other charac- for 12 days in mid-July. The sched- ters, reenactments of scenes from ule of happenings is diverse, with the novel, lectures, and sponta- films, musical concerts, and theatri- neous gatherings at many of the cal performances taking place pubs in Ulysses. See p. 152. simultaneously in the many city- • Dublin Theatre Festival (Dublin): center venues. See p. 408. This October festival offers visitors 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND FROM $60 A DAY

5 The Best Active Vacations • Sailing Ireland’s West Coast: find comfortable and friendly Spectacular coastal scenery, inter- accommodations and an out- esting harbor towns, and an abun- standing sea-kayaking program dance of islands make the West run by Jim Kennedy. See chap- Coast a delight for cruising sailors. ter 8, “Out from Cork.” Yacht charter is available in Kil- • Bicycling in the Southwest: The rush, . See “Sailing peninsulas and islands of Cork Resources,” in chapter 3, “Ireland and Kerry are perfect for cycling, Outdoors.” with low traffic and an abundance • Horseback Riding in the Galtee of beautiful places to visit. Roy- Mountains: The gentle contours of croft’s Stores in Skibbereen, Tipperary’s Galtees offer the perfect County Cork, rent bikes that are a scenic backdrop for trail riding. notch above the usual rental You’ll be provided with all you need equipment. See chapters 8, “Out for a horse-riding holiday at Bansha from Cork,” and 9, “The South- House, a commodious B&B with west: County Kerry.” an excellent equestrian program. • Walking the Donegal Coast: The See chapter 6, “The Southeast.” cliff-rimmed headlands of Done- • Sea Kayaking in : The gal are the most spectacular in many bays, headlands, and islands Ireland, and the best way to of this wild, rocky coast provide explore them is on foot. Among innumerable opportunities for the finest walks are , kayak exploration. A great base is Glen Head, and Horn Head. See Maria’s Schoolhouse, where you’ll chapter 13, “The Northwest.”

6 The Best Beaches • Raven Point (): for walking or windsurfing, The Raven Nature Reserve, just though it’s often a bit rough for north of Wexford Harbour, is a swimming. See p. 348. place of forested dunes and • Portacloy (): With uncrowded beaches. During the a curving crescent of white sand, a winter and spring a large popula- tranquil bay, and a fleet of diving tion of migratory wildfowl cormorants, this beach is a gem makes this their temporary home. that (surprisingly) doesn’t draw See p. 220. large crowds. It is strikingly rural • Barleycove (County Cork): Barl- and shimmers a silky aquamarine eycove is an inlet at the tip of amidst sheep fields and a cluster of , a place of great farm cottages. Come here for a rugged beauty. Despite some spectacular cliffside walk as well as development in the form of a hotel a refreshing dip. See p. 386. and trailer park, the beach doesn’t • Trabane (County Donegal): get too crowded, and is a great Donegal has some of the most place to walk or swim. See p. 300. beautiful stretches of unpopulated • Kilcummin (County Kerry): beach in Ireland, and Trabane Brandon Bay on the north side of Strand near Dunfanaghy is a the offers many prime example. You have to be kilometers of pristine sand; the willing to walk, as there isn’t road beach at Kilcummin, near Strad- access, but on a fine day a stroll on bally, is especially scenic and good this glorious expanse of sea sand, 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 11

THE BEST NATURAL WONDERS 11

with the cliffs of Horn Head on • Culdaff (County Donegal): This the horizon, will amply reward the long, golden beach is one of the effort. As for swimming in these best beaches in Donegal, a county chilly northern waters, it’s best to with much more than its share of leave that to the seals and the truly glorious sea sand. Culdaff is also courageous. See p. 463. well sheltered from Atlantic tur- bulence. See p. 474.

7 The Best Bird-Watching • Shannon Callows (Counties Gal- areas of ornithological interest. way, Tipperary, and Offaly): The See chapter 6, “The Southeast.” low-lying meadows along the • Cape Clear (County Cork): This Shannon and Little Brosna River island at the southernmost flood in the winter, creating a extremity of Ireland has a bird massive temporary lake that is the observatory and resident warden. wintering grounds for many Many important discoveries species of wildfowl. In the sum- regarding patterns of migration mer, the meadows are home to have been made here. Boat tours one of the few remaining corn- for birders are available from crake populations in Ireland. See North Harbor. See chapter 8, “Bird-watching” in chapter 3, “Out from Cork.” “Ireland Outdoors.” • (County Clare): • Great Saltee (County Wexford): Remote Loop Head and the A barren and seemingly lifeless nearby Bridges of Ross are known rock during much of the year, this as great seabird-watching sites island becomes an avian paradise from late summer to early fall. See during the summer months, when chapter 10, “The West.” it fills to overflowing with nesting • Strangford Lough (County seabirds. See chapter 6, “The Down): The shores of Strangford Southeast.” Lough mark one of the premier • North Slob (County Wexford): bird-watching sites in the world. The north side of Wexford Har- Although best known for the bor is the site of the Wexford thousands of pale-bellied Brent Wildfowl Reserve, home to thou- geese that can be seen there every sands of geese from October to fall, the area offers wonders year- April each year. Its interpretive round, and hosts the family- center is open year-round and has friendly wildlife reserve, Castle exhibits on the geese, other avian Espie. See chapter 15, “Northern visitors to the Slob, and nearby Ireland.”

8 The Best Natural Wonders • MacGillycuddy’s Reeks (County greatest spectacles. See chapter 9, Kerry): One of several mountain “The Southwest: County Kerry.” ranges on the , • The Burren (County Clare): The MacGillycuddy’s Reeks boasts Burren—from the Irish Boireann, Carrantuohill, at 3,404 feet meaning “a rocky place”—is one (1,037m) the highest mountain in of the strangest landscapes you’re Ireland. Whether gazed at from ever likely to see: a vast limestone afar or explored up close on foot, grassland, spread with a quilt the Reeks are among Ireland’s of wildflowers. Its inhabitants 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 12

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include the pine marten and • Slieve League (County Donegal): nearly every species of butterfly The Slieve League peninsula found in Ireland. See chapter 10, stretches for 30 miles (48km) into “The West.” the Atlantic and is 12 miles (19km) • The Cliffs of Moher (County across at its widest point. Its Clare): Rising from Hag’s Head to wonderfully pigmented cliffs are the south, these magnificent sea the highest sea cliffs in Europe, and cliffs reach their full height of 760 can either be gazed at from Carri- feet (232m) just north of gan Head or walked along, if you O’Brien’s Tower. The views of the dare. From below or from above, open sea, of the distant Aran Slieve League serves up some of the Islands, and of the of most dazzling sights in Ireland. See Connemara are spectacular. A chapter 13, “The Northwest.” walk south along the cliff edge at • The Slieve Bloom Mountains sunset makes a perfect end to any (County Laois): Slieve Bloom, Ire- day. See chapter 10, “The West.” land’s largest and most unspoiled • (County Mayo): blanket , has been described as Rising steeply 2,500 feet (762m) a “scenic bulge” rising gently above the Mayo coast, Croagh above the midland’s peat fields. Its Patrick is Ireland’s holiest moun- beauty—comprised of gentle tain, where Patrick is said to have slopes, glens, rivers, waterfalls, retreated in penance. The place is and bog lands—is subtle rather biblically imposing. The view than dramatic, but it’s compara- from above can be breathtaking or tively untouched and you can nonexistent, as the summit is have it more or less to yourself— often wrapped in clouds, adding apart from its deer, foxes, badgers, to its mystery. See chapter 10, and an occasional marten or otter, “The West.” that is. See chapter 14, “Along the • The Twelve Bens (County Gal- River Shannon’s Shores.” way): Amidst Connemara’s central • The Giant’s Causeway (County mountains, , and lakes rises a Antrim): In case you lose count, rugged range known as the Twelve there are roughly 40,000 tightly Bens, crowning a landscape that is packed and mostly hexagonal among the most spectacular in basalt columns said to comprise the Ireland. Among the peaks them- giant Finn McCool’s path from the selves, some are bare and rocky Antrim headland into the sea while others are clothed in peat. toward the Scottish island of Staffa. The loftiest of the Bens, , This volcanic wonder, formed 60 reaches a height of 2,395 feet million years ago, can either be (730m) and lies inside the Con- marveled at from a distance or nemara National Park. See chap- negotiated cautiously on foot. See ter 12, “Out from Galway.” chapter 15, “Northern Ireland.”

9 The Best • Cahir Castle (County Tipperary): through a maze of tiny chambers, One of the largest of Ireland’s spiral staircases, and vertiginous castles, Cahir is in an extraordi- . See p. 240. nary state of preservation. Tours • Kilkenny Castle (County explain some fascinating features Kilkenny): Although parts of the of the castle’s military architec- castle date back to the 13th century, ture, and you’re free to roam the existing structure has the feel of 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 13

THE BEST OF ANCIENT IRELAND 13

an 18th-century palace. There have almost certainly get lost in the been many modifications since maze of courtyards, passages, medieval times, including the addi- walls, and barracks. See p. 286. tion of beautiful landscaping on the • Parke’s Castle (County Leitrim): grounds. See p. 251. Once an important in this • Castle (County Cork): part of the country, the now mas- Despite the mobs of visitors that terfully restored castle commands besiege the castle daily, this majes- great views over Lough Gill. tic is worth a visit. Exhibits demonstrate the life and While you’re here, check out the activities of castle inhabitants, and Badger Cave and dungeons at the the tea shop serves up some tower’s base, as well as the serpen- admirable pastries. See p. 442. tine paths that wind through the • Carrickfergus Castle (County castle gardens, set in a picturesque Antrim): This fortress on the bank rocky glen. Need we mention the of Belfast Lough is the best- Stone? You sidle in under the preserved Norman castle in Ire- upper wall with your head hang- land. It consists of an imposing ing over a 10-story drop, and tower house and high wall punctu- there it is. You kiss it. It’s a thing ated by corner towers. See p. 516. people do. See p. 278. • Dunluce Castle (County • Charles Fort (County Cork): Antrim): The castle ruins stand Located on a promontory in stun- atop a razor-sharp promontory ning Kinsale Harbor, the fort’s jutting into the sea. This was no massive walls enclose a complex doubt a highly defensible setting, array of buildings in varying states and the castle wasn’t abandoned of repair. At the entrance you’re until a large section collapsed and handed a map and then left on into the breakers one day in your own to explore, discover, and 1639. See p. 524.

10 The Best of Ancient Ireland • Newgrange (County Meath): On the east hill, a guide unlocks Poised atop a low hill north of the the door to one of the domed River Boyne, Newgrange is the tombs, answering your questions centerpiece of a dramatic mega- with an individuality not possible lithic cemetery dating from more at the larger, more populous sites. than 5,000 years ago. Archaeolog- More rewarding however, is a hike ical speculation is that this mas- up the west hill to a second, more sive, heart-shaped mound and solitary series of tombs where the passage tomb was constructed as a connections to be made between communal vault to house the cre- ruin and imaginative reconstruc- mated remains of the dead. The tion are your own. See p. 200. tomb’s narrow passage is so per- • Tara (County Meath): Of ritual fectly aligned with the equinoctial significance from the Stone Age to sunrise that the central chamber, the Christian period, Tara has seen deep within the mound, is mar- it all and kept it all a secret. This velously illuminated at each year’s was the traditional center and seat winter solstice. See p. 200. of Ireland’s high kings, who could • Loughcrew (County Meath): At look out from here and survey this little-known site, not far from their realm. Although it’s only 512 Newgrange, a series of cruciform feet (156m) above sea level, from passage tombs crown two hills. the Tara hill you can see each of 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 14

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Ireland’s four Celtic provinces on magnificent barbaric monument a clear day. The site is mostly in Europe.” Facing the sea, where unexcavated and tells its story in its three stone rings meet steep whispers. It’s a place to be walked 200-foot (61m) cliffs, Aen- slowly, with an imagination gus stands guard today over the steeped in Ireland’s past. See southern coast of the island of p. 200. Inishmore, the largest of the • Lough Gur (County Limerick): Arans. See p. 418. This lakefront site will convince • Carrowmore and Carrowkeel you that the Neolithic farmers of (County Sligo): Located on the Ireland had an estimable sense of Coolera Peninsula, these two real estate. Inhabited for more megalithic cities of the dead may than 4,000 years, this ancient have once contained well over 200 farming settlement offers a num- passage tombs. The two together, ber of prehistoric remains, the Carrowmore in a valley and most impressive of which is the Carrowkeel atop a nearby moun- largest surviving stone circle in tain, convey an unequaled sense of Ireland, consisting of 113 stones. the scale and wonder of the See p. 363. ancient megalithic peoples’ rever- • Dun Aengus (County Galway): ence for the dead. Carrowmore is No one knows who built this mas- well presented and interpreted, sive stone fort, or when. The emi- while Carrowkeel is left to itself nent archaeologist George Petrie and to those who seek it out. See called Dun Aengus “the most p. 438.

11 Remnants of the Golden Age: The Best Early Christian Ruins • (): outcropping—or rather upcrop- Nestled in “the glen of the two ping—of limestone topped with lakes,” this important monastic set- some of the most spectacular tlement was founded in the 6th ruins in Ireland, including what century by St. Kevin. Its setting is was once the country’s finest disarmingly scenic—exactly the Romanesque chapel. Socially, the opposite of the harsh environment place was in former times the seat you’d expect ascetic medieval of clerics and kings, a center to rival monks to have sought out. Tara. Now, however, the two sites Although quite remote, Glen- vie only for tourists. See p. 241. dalough suffered numerous assaults • Jerpoint Abbey (County by the Vikings and the English, Kilkenny): Jerpoint is perhaps the and it eventually dwindled into finest representative of the many insignificance. Today its pictur- Cistercian abbeys whose ruins dot esque ruins collude with the coun- the Irish landscape. Visitors are tryside to create one of the loveliest drawn to Jerpoint’s splendid spots in Ireland. See p. 182. cloister, the most richly carved in • The Rock of Cashel (County Ireland, and its impressive tomb Tipperary): In both appearance sculptures. The abbey’s tower is and name (cashel or caiseal the tallest of its kind in Ireland. means “fortress” in Irish), “the See p. 255. Rock” suggests a citadel, a place • Skellig Michael (County Kerry): more familiar with power than This stunning crag of rock, dedi- prayer. Physically, it is a huge cated to the Archangel Michael, 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 15

THE BEST LITERARY SPOTS 15

stands 8 miles (13km) offshore of stunning sight, well worth the the Iveragh Peninsula and rises effort required to reach it. See sharply 714 feet (218m) out of the p. 438. Atlantic. Early Irish monks in pur- • Clonmacnois (County Offaly): suit of self-imposed hardship and This was once one of Ireland’s exile chose this spot to build their most important religious, artistic, austere hermitage. Today, the and literary centers, a place of pil- journey to Skellig across choppy grimage and high culture. seas and the arduous climb to its Founded in the mid-5th century summit are challenging and at the axis of the Shannon River unforgettable. See p. 314. and the medieval east–west thor- • Inishmurray (County Sligo): oughfare known as the Eiscir This uninhabited island nearly 4 Riada, Clonmacnois thrived for miles (6.5km) off the Sligo coast is centuries until its prime riverfront home to a striking monastic com- location nearly proved its undo- plex, surrounded by what appear ing. In the 830s, Vikings sailed up to be the walls of an even more the Shannon from Limerick and ancient stone fort. Despite its brought a havoc that returned remoteness, this of peace- many times in the ensuing seeking monks was sought out for centuries. Today, even in ruins, destruction by the Vikings in AD Clonmacnois remains a place of 802. Today its circular ruins and peculiar beauty and serenity. See the surrounding sea present a p. 486.

12 The Best Literary Spots • Newman House (Dublin): Cardi- and longtime Dublin resident nal John Henry Newman was the who is said to have inspired Yeats’s first rector of the Catholic Univer- play Cathleen ní Houlihan, is sity in Dublin, housed in two buried in the Republican plot. See buildings on St. Stephen’s Green p. 144. in the center of the city’s south • North Dublin: The streets north side, and worked in this capacity of the Liffey are home to many of from 1852 to his retirement in the characters in ’s sto- 1859. The Catholic University ries and novels; this is a part of later became University College Dublin in which Joyce himself Dublin, and it is to this institution lived and for which he had a spe- that Gerard Manley Hopkins was cial affinity. Much has changed sent in 1884, as a professor of since Joyce’s time, and Bloom’s Greek; after 5 years of teaching house at 7 has been here, Hopkins died at the age of replaced by a new wing of the 44. James Joyce studied here from Mater Private Hospital, but there 1899 to 1902. See p. 145. are still many mementos of the • Glasnevin Cemetery (Dublin): city as it was in 1904. Tours of the Besides being the setting for part area begin from the James Joyce of the sixth episode of Ulysses, this Center. See p. 145. is the resting place of Joyce’s par- • St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin): ents and several other members of Jonathan Swift was born in his family. The English-born poet Dublin in 1667, and entered Trin- Gerard Manley Hopkins is also ity College in his 15th year. He buried here, in the Jesuit plot. later became dean of St. Patrick’s Maud Gonne, the Irish nationalist Cathedral, and is buried alongside 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 16

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Hester Johnson (Stella) in the photographs, and other memora- Cathedral’s south aisle. See p. 154. bilia, and of course Yeats’s grave in • County Sligo: It seems at times Drumcliff. See “Sligo and Yeats that every hill, house, and lake in Country,” in chapter 13, “The the county is signposted to note Northwest.” its relation to the poet W. B. Yeats, • The Aran Islands: John Milling- whose writing was informed by ton Synge set his play Riders to the the landscape, mythology, and Sea on Inishmaan, and wrote an people of this region. Many of the account of life on the islands, natural and historic monuments titled simply The Aran Islands. of Sligo appear in Yeats’s poetry, Native islander Liam O’Flaherty, including Lough Gill, Glencar known for his novel Famine, is Lake, Benbulben Mountain, and from the island of Inishmore. See Maeve’s tomb atop Knocknarea “The Aran Islands” in chapter 12, Mountain. There are also several “Out from Galway.” museums housing first editions,

13 The Best Gardens • Powerscourt (County Wicklow): leading from a formal garden to a This is one of the most grandiose rugged forest, rock-walled glen, of Irish gardens, set amidst the and riverbank walk. See chapter 6, natural splendor of the northern “The Southeast.” Wicklow Hills, yet it’s only 12 • Creagh (County Cork): Meander- miles (19km) from Dublin. The ing paths lead the visitor past a gardens and nearby waterfall make sequence of exquisite vistas, with a great day’s outing and a welcome many hidden corners to explore. respite from the noise and conges- The garden is situated on a beau- tion of the city. See p. 186. tiful . See p. 297. • Kilruddery (County Wicklow): A • Ilnacullin (County Cork): A ferry grandiose formal garden whose conveys visitors from a lovely, rho- initial plan was laid out in the dodendron-rimmed bay in the 17th century, Killruddery’s appeal town of Glangarriff to Garinish lies in places like the beech hedge Island, the unlikely site of a fine and the ornamental dairy. Italianate garden. The formal The house is also full of curious garden, with the Casita at its treasures. See p. 186. center, is linked to a “wild garden” • Butterstream (County Meath): that showcases a collection of Butterstream is renowned for its rhododendrons, azaleas, and rare splendor, spring and summer. It is trees. See p. 297. a series of delightful garden com- • Heywood (County Laois): Hey- partments whose variety attest to wood is one of just four gardens in the skill of its designer, Jim Ireland designed by English archi- Reynolds. His manipulation of tect Edward Lutyens. Its rows of floral color and texture yields lime trees, tall iron fountain, and spectacular results, from an walled garden create a tranquil austere white garden to the floral enclave in a countryside that is fireworks of brilliant herbaceous already calm, green, and soft. The borders. See p. 199. house for which Heywood was • Altamont (County Carlow): Alta- built has burnt down; neverthe- mount is a sumptuous garden. less, the garden recalls its elegance. Lush plantings set up a sequence See p. 489. 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 17

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• Mount Stewart (): character. A touch of whimsy is Built upon an elaborate plan, reflected in the statuary, topiary, Mount Stewart comprises several and planting designs. See p. 518. small gardens of distinctive 14 The Best Attractions for the Whole Family • The Ark: A Cultural Centre for • The Irish National Heritage Children (County Dublin): A Park (County Wexford): Nearly unique chance for kids to have a 9,000 years of Irish history come hands-on learning experience of alive here in ways that will fasci- art, music, and theater in work- nate visitors of every age. The shop sessions with artists. There whole family will be captivated by are also excellent theater produc- the story of ancient Ireland, from tions for families. See p. 150. its first inhabitants to its Norman • Dublin’s Viking Adventure conquerors. See p. 212. (County Dublin): This is a fun • Muckross House & Gardens learning experience where kids (County Kerry): This stunning can travel back in time and be part Victorian mansion with exquisite of Viking life with “real Vikings,” gardens is also home to skilled while working and interacting in a artisans at their work. Nearby is a model Norse town on the actual series of reconstructed traditional site where the Vikings made their farms, complete with animals and home in Dublin. See p. 150. docents, providing a gateway to • Dublin Zoo in Phoenix Park rural Ireland as it was for cen- (County Dublin): Kids love this turies. See p. 325. 30-acre zoo with its array of crea- • Marble Arch Caves (County Fer- tures, animal-petting corner, and managh): Adventurous families train ride. The surrounding are guided by boat through well- park has room to run, picnic, lit underground waterways to and explore for hours (or days!). explore caves and view amazing See p. 150. stone formations. See p. 552.

15 The Best Pubs • Abbey Tavern (County Dublin): alums are Wolfe Tone, Daniel A short outing from Dublin cen- O’Connell, and Robert Emmet, ter, the Abbey Tavern is the perfect who planned the Dublin rising of place to recover and refuel after 1803 under the Head’s low tim- exploring , Ireland’s bers. In fact, he was hanged not Eye, and the attractive fishing and far from here when everything yachting village of Howth on the went wrong. See p. 168. northern tip of Dublin Bay. The • An Bodhran (County Cork): A Abbey is known far and wide hangout for UCC (University for its ballads as well as its brew. College Cork) students serious See p. 171. about their traditional music and • The Brazen Head (County stout, An Bodhran has a lot of Dublin): Nearly qualifying as one old-style character, which recent of Ireland’s ancient sites, the renovations have only enhanced. Brazen Head, commissioned by See p. 281. Charles II, is more than 300 years • The Blue Haven (County Cork): old, and its stout is as fresh as it Everything the Blue Haven offers comes. Among its illustrious is first rate: food, drink, lodging, 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 18

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and a cozy bar with an open fire. • Smugglers Creek (County Done- This particular haven is also in the gal): This place would be worth a center of one of Ireland’s most stop if only for its spectacular cliff- appealing seaside towns, Kinsale. top views of Donegal Bay. You’ll soon measure everyone else’s Stonewalls, beamed ceilings, open traditional Irish lamb stew by fires, excellent fare, and the brew what you found here. See p. 289. that’s true are among the charms • O’Connor’s Pub (County Clare): proprietor Conor Britton has on Doolin, a dot of a town on the tap. See p. 457. Clare Coast, is a hot spot for tra- • Hargadon’s (County Sligo): This ditional Irish music, and Gus is the epitome of the Irish pub. O’Connor’s has been at the center Conversation and the gentle sip- of the action here for more than ping of Guinness reign supreme 150 years. Great music and distin- here: no televisions, radios, or guished seafood make this other- stereos disrupt an atmosphere of wise ordinary pub worth a major quiet enjoyment honed over more detour. See p. 375. than a hundred years of pulling • Moran’s Oyster Cottage (County pints. See p. 446. Galway): Famed for its seafood, • Crown Liquor Saloon (County this centuries-old thatched-cot- Antrim): This National Trust pub, tage pub on the weir also draws a across from the Grand Opera perfect pint. This may well be the House in Belfast, is a Victorian oyster capitol of Ireland. It’s 12 gem. Your mouth will drop open miles (19km) out of Galway and at its antique publican splendor well worth the drive—or the walk, even before you lift your first pint. for that matter. See p. 415. See p. 513.

16 The Best of Irish Baking • Ballinatona Farm (County scones, and pastries is fresh every Cork): Few bakers can top the day and you will want to ensure Irish soda bread, scones, and pan that you arrive in time to taste a bread of Jytte Storm, who uses tra- tart or two. See p. 403. ditional Irish recipes. Guests at • Country Choice (County Tipper- Ballinatona wake up to the com- ary): This is a cornucopia of Irish forting smell of baking bread, bet- specialties. Counters are heaped ter than coffee to get you going in with warm, crisp loaves of round the morning. See p. 303. bread. The scent alone is irre- • Goya’s (County Galway): Goya’s sistible, the texture homely and is a Galway institution, a place to satisfying, and the taste beyond sip tea and gossip. Emer Murray description. See p. 483. ensures that its selection of bread,

17 The Best Restaurants You Can Afford • Chameleon (County Dublin): there it only gets spicier. A good Step into this small restaurant on a budget bet are the early-bird side street of Temple Bar and dishes—huge, well-seasoned bowls you’ll be rewarded with an of noodles or rice with a choice of Indonesian feast. Shrimp crackers seafood, chicken, beef, or vegeta- and hot red curry paste are at bles. See p. 125. every table to begin and from 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 19

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• Steps of Rome (County Dublin): want a quick bite in Galway. The perfect antidote to rain- Steaming bowls of noodles are induced hunger lies within the spiked with cilantro and chili, and walls of this small cafe off Dublin’s you won’t want to put down your Grafton Street: a thick, satisfying chopsticks until you’ve slurped up slab of potato and rosemary pizza. every bit. See p. 403. See p. 131. • Moran’s Oyster Cottage (County • Adele’s (County Cork): This Galway): A short drive from Gal- unassuming eatery on Main Street way center, this seafood mecca is in is a bakery during the worth a drive from Dublin. For six day, serving great sandwiches of generations, the Morans have herbed Italian bread and delicious focused on what they know and local cheese. The real revelation do best, and have a menu—the comes in the evening, when you same menu, all day and every day, can come here for meals that are featuring seafood and nothing simple and astonishingly good. but—that brings the point home. See p. 307. You may not find better oysters • Da Tang Noodle House (County and salmon anywhere, and surely Galway): Spicy. spicy. spicy. This not at these prices. See p. 415. is where the locals slip in if they

18 Where to Forget Your Budget: The Best Places to Eat • L’Ecrivain (Dublin): Everything however, is what puts it on the at L’Ecrivain is accomplished with map. The chef’s eight-course tast- art and precision, from the serv- ing menu and a fine wine from ice and presentation to the food the lodge’s extensive list will leave itself. Vegetarian and lunch menus a lasting impression. See p. 274. are an especially good value. • Lettercollum House (County L’Ecrivain continues to quietly Cork): The emphasis here is on assert itself as one of the very best fresh, local, and organic ingredi- Irish restaurants. See p. 131. ents; a walled garden provides the • The Motte (County Kilkenny): vegetables, and pigs are raised on Slow delectation is the require- the premises. With these fine ment at the Motte. Everything materials, chef Con McLoughlin demands it—from the dimly concocts dishes of pure delight, glowing dining room to the simple yet surprising. There’s thoughtful staff and the exquis- always a vegetarian entree, too. itely prepared food. Chef Alan See p. 309. Walton’s concoctions of cream • Beginish Restaurant (County and fresh herbs and rich dark Kerry): A relaxed atmosphere per- chocolate desserts defy speed, vades this small restaurant on one making a delicious, lingering of Dingle’s narrow side streets. evening the only real possibility. The seafood is as fresh as it gets, See p. 260. and is always presented in its • Arbutus Lodge (County Cork): unadorned majesty—these people Formerly the home of the lord really know how to let seafood Mayor of Cork, Arbutus Lodge speak for itself. See p. 346. House is king of the hill in more • Corncrake Restaurant (County ways than one, with commanding Donegal): Such a judicious blend views of the and the sur- of fresh ingredients and culinary rounding hills. The restaurant, imagination is a rare treat. The 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 20

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nettle soup, roast lamb, and living room of a small row desserts of Noreen Lynch and Brid house has been transformed into McCartney warrant a detour to the an extraordinary restaurant. See town of Carndonagh where the p. 476.

19 The Best Offbeat Activities • Illauntannig Island Cottage with a priest, and mass is said at (County Kerry): This small island these markers. See “Country off the Dingle Peninsula promises Mayo” in chapter 10, “The West.” absolute solitude. For a very rea- • Bog Tours (County Offaly): You sonable sum, you can rent the shouldn’t visit Ireland without only house on the island, your stepping in a peat bog, without only company a herd of cows and smelling its distinctive smoke flocks of seabirds. The only way from cottage chimneys, without over is via fishing boat and cur- seeing its rich brown blocks ragh. See “The Northern Dingle heaped at the side of the road. The Peninsula” in chapter 9, “The Irish Peat Board gives railway Southwest: County Kerry.” tours of the Blackwater bog—you • Croagh Patrick Pilgrimage can even try your hand at digging (County Mayo): On the final Sun- the turf. See p. 486. day of July, join the more than • Cattle Market or Horse Sale. A 60,000 pilgrims who ascend the good way to recapture the essence 2,513-foot summit of Croagh of rural Ireland is to attend local Patrick at night—some in bare livestock auctions, which take feet. There is a 4am mass before the place throughout the country. descent. The date of this strenuous One good cattle market is held on climb coincides with that of Lugh- Tuesday mornings in Nenagh, nasa, the Celtic festival. Another County Tipperary. If you find ancient pilgrimage route com- yourself in Dublin, there’s an mences at Ballinatubber Abbey— urban horse market on the first the walk predates Christianity and Sunday of each month in the many people still undertake the Smithfield district; for more infor- 22-mile journey, which ends at the mation contact Dublin Tourism base of Croagh Patrick. The route (& 066/979-2082). See the is punctuated by several mass “Lower Shannon: The Lough rocks; groups sometimes travel Derg Drive” in chapter 14.

20 The Best B&Bs • Lennoxbrook Countryhouse farmhouse commands astonishing (County Meath): Lennoxbrook is views of the surrounding hills. Jytte a thoughtful, well-crafted place. Storm and Tim Lane, the energetic The rooms are beautiful, with bay and outgoing hosts, will direct you windows overlooking a tangled to the Coomeenatrush Waterfall forest and a magnificent beech and other beautiful spots within tree. Guests are invited to pull up walking distance of the house. See a chair in the Mullan family p. 303. sitting room. See p. 202. • Lettercollum House (County • Ballinatona Farm (County Cork): Cork): Lettercollum is a well- Set in a quiet and underrated cor- worn manor house with fine ner of West Cork, this modern stained glass and elegant common 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 21

WHERE TO FORGET YOUR BUDGET: THE BEST PLACES TO STAY 21

rooms, but despite its elegance, it’s Sheelin, a noteworthy source of a laid-back retreat and a great trout and pike. See p. 496. place for families. No guest should • The Saddler’s House and Old depart without sampling the Rectory (County Derry): Com- excellent afternoon and evening pared to the Old Rectory, the meals served in a former chapel. Saddler’s house is modest. Its See p. 304. rooms are clean and spare, • Ross Castle (County Cavan): A decorated with the simplicity that tower room in a haunted (and its merchant origins seem to centrally heated) castle awaits you demand. The Rectory rooms are here, and it won’t take too big a more lavish—high ceilings and bite out of your wallet, either. plaster roses evoke its elegant This may not be elegance, but it’s Georgian origins. Both houses, unquestionably memorable. Ross run by the inimitable Joan Pyne, Castle and nearby Ross House are are a brief stroll from the center of warm, comfortable, and a great Derry. See p. 543. place to relax beside Lough

21 Where to Forget Your Budget: The Best Places to Stay • Delphi Lodge (County Galway): Sandy has many a story to tell of This was once the country hide- their exploits. The evening meal, away for the marquis of Sligo, and prepared by Deborah Percival, is a now it can be yours, too. Inside, memorable experience. The the emphasis is on clean, bright atmosphere of casual elegance and simplicity in perfect taste, while affable unpretentiousness is truly outside the grounds and environs seductive, and chances are you’ll are among the most beautiful in want to spend more than one Ireland. Tranquility, comfort, and night. See p. 445. fishing are the operative words • Castle Leslie (): here. By renting one of the cot- A stay here is one of Ireland’s tages for a week or more, you can unique surprises, an experience well make this indulgence more afford- worth any detour required. The able. See p. 431. 1,000-acre estate, with its three • Temple House (County Sligo): lakes (famous for pike) and ancient The house is set on the shores of hardwood forests, casts its own Temple House Lake, on an estate relaxing spell, and the great of some 1,000 acres, with a gor- house—27,000 square feet of geous walled garden and elaborate history—is as comfortable as an coach houses. Sandy Percival’s old slipper. Expect the unexpected, family has lived in Temple House and enjoy. See p. 355. for more than 300 years, and