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The Best of Ireland from $60 a Day

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The Best of Ireland from $60 a Day 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 5 1 The Best of Ireland from $60 a Day The Irish landscape remains breathtaking, its natural beauty intact, its rivers and lakes more or less pollution-free, and its people disarmingly gracious. These are the essential components of Irish tourism, and they’re what bring 3.6 million vis- itors to Ireland each year, an ever-growing number that currently equals Ireland’s population. Irish hospitality, in particular, is legendary, and deservedly so. But beyond those seemingly timeless qualities, much of the country is chang- ing rapidly. Twenty years ago, life in Ireland’s rural west resembled the 19th cen- tury more than the 20th. Small farms were still the norm, and some remote areas had yet to receive electricity and running water. These days tourism and foreign investment have brought a new prosperity, and the country is changing fast. Computer firms employ the children of farmers, and the traditional cottage is being replaced in most places by modern bungalows. New restaurants and places to stay sprout from the fields like mushrooms, and yesterday’s quiet seaside retreat is today’s bustling resort town. The whole country is lunging into the 21st century at a pace that leaves most visitors—and many natives—feeling a lit- tle bewildered. There’s so much happening in Ireland these days that it can be hard to get your bearings. Within this exciting, shifting land, we’ve worked to find some constants—some things you can count on. So consider this a starting point, a springboard for your explorations and a base from which to build your own list of Irish favorites. 1 The Best Picture-Postcard Irish Towns • Dalkey (County Dublin): This center housed in its stables—draw charming south-coast suburb of visitors from both Ireland and Dublin enjoys easy access to the abroad. Kilkenny, however, is no city and freedom from its snarls museum and is regarded by many and frenzy. It has a hilltop castle, as perhaps the most attractive an island, and a few parks, all in large town in Ireland. See chap- ample miniature. With all the fine ter 6, “The Southeast.” and simple restaurants, pubs, and • Kinsale (County Cork): Kinsale’s shops anyone needs for a brief narrow streets, dropping steeply visit or a long stay, Dalkey is a from the hills that rim beautiful tempting town to settle into. See Kinsale Harbor, all lead to the sea. chapter 4, “Dublin.” This is undoubtedly one of • Kilkenny (County Kilkenny): Ireland’s most picturesque and Kilkenny offers the best Irish picture-perfect towns, and the example of a medieval town. Its myriad visitors who crowd walls and splendidly restored the streets every summer attest to castle—with a renowned design the fact that the secret is out. The 6547-8 Ch01.F2/25/0210:52AMPage6 Ireland 6 ell Lough Rathlin Island mpb Swilly To Ca North Sea Tory Island Portrush CHAPTER 1 SCOTLANDSCOTLAND North ATLANTIC Ballycastle Edinburgh Portstewart Channel OCEAN Creeslough Lough Foyle Donegal Airport NORTHERNNORTHERN Eglinton Airport IRELANDIRELAND Aran Island Letterkenny Derry DERRY ryan & Stranrae ANTRIM Cairn Dungloe To . Dublin Irish Sea Gweebarra Bay DONEGAL N O R T H E R N Larne A DAY THE BESTOFIRELANDFROM$60 r Ballymena REPUBLICREPUBLIC OFOF ENGLANDENGLAND I R E L A N D ranrae Ardara Strabane t IRELANDIRELAND ouglasT &oS Liverpool Tot D Lough WALESWALES fas Donegal el rge's U L S T E R B Bangor London Lough St. Geo TYRONE Neagh Belfast City Channel Airport Omagh Dungannon Belfast BELFAST 0 100 Mi Lower Int’l. Airport English Channel Donegal Bay Lough Erne 0 100 Km FRANCEFFRANCERANCE Portadown Enniskillen DOWN Killala ARMAGH Downpatrick Bay Sligo Bay Sligo LEITRIM FERMANAGH Upper Armagh Lough Erne Newcastle Monaghan Ballina Sligo Newry SLIGO Airport MONAGHAN Cavan Boyle Dundalk Ardee Achill Island CAVAN MAYO Carrick-on-Shannon Dundalk Bay Clare Island Clew Bay Knock LOUTH ROSCOMMON LONGFORD Westport Kells Lough Knock Airport Longford Drogheda Irish Roscommon MEATH Navan Inishbofin Mask Lough Ree Sea C O N N A U G H T Trim Mullingar Clifden Tuam WESTMEATH Dublin Airport Lough GALWAY Athlone DUBLIN Corrib L E I N S T E R To Holyhead & Douglas Galway Airport M U N S T E R SCOTLAND NORTHERN IRELAND REPUBLIC OF ENGLAND IRELAND WALES FRANCE C O N N A U G H T L E I N S T E R 6547-8 Ch01.F2/25/0210:52AMPage7 Galway City Tullamore OFFALY Naas Galway Bay KILDARE ARAN ISLANDS REPUBLIC OF IRELAND Portlaoise WICKLOW Wicklow Roscrea LAOIS Ennistymon CLARE Ennis Lough Carlow Derg Arklow Shannon TIPPERARY Airport CARLOW Thurles Kilkenny Limerick KILKENNY TOWNS THE BESTPICTURE-POSTCARDIRISH Mouth of the LIMERICK Cashel Shannon WEXFORD Tipperary Listowel New Ross Clonmel Wexford Tralee Waterford Mitchelstown Great Dingle KERRY M U N S T E R ToFishgu Blasket ard & WATERFORD Pembrok Island Waterford e y Killarney Fermoy Airport Kerry Dungarvan Dingle Ba To Rosco County Airport CORK IVERAGH Cork ff & Cherbo PENINSULA Youghal Cobh r e Cork Airport urg To S wansea St. George’s Channel mare Riv Kinsale Ken Bantry To Bantry Bay Cher Le Havre, R Skibbereen bourg & osco S t . Malo ff, Airport 0 30 Mi Ferry Route N 7 0 30 Km 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 8 8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND FROM $60 A DAY walk from Kinsale through Scilly concentration of fine restaurants to Charles Fort and Frower Point outside Dublin. See chapter 8, is breathtaking. Another plus: “Out from Cork. Kinsale has Ireland’s greatest 2 The Best Tiny Seaside Villages • Ardmore (County Waterford): from the bay. Brandon sits in the Ardmore is best known for its shadow of Mt. Brandon, Ireland’s complex of medieval ruins, second highest mountain, and just including a beautiful round tower down the road from the great and a chapel with a remarkable set ocean views at Brandon Point. See of carvings on its gable. The town chapter 9, “The Southwest: itself is clustered around a sandy County Kerry.” bay between craggy headlands. See • Dunfanaghy (County Donegal): chapter 6, “The Southeast.” There are outstanding beaches • Glandore and Union Hall and coastal scenery within walk- (County Cork): These two stun- ing distance of this resort town on ning port towns, which face each Ireland’s northern coast. Don’t other across the waters of beautiful miss the Horn Head Drive, or the Glandore Harbour, are connected traditional music that bursts into by an intimidating one-lane spontaneous life most nights in bridge. Glandore consists of streets Dunfanaghy or nearby Falcarragh. stepping steeply to the sea, and on See chapter 13, “The Northwest.” the port, a hotel, and a locally • Glencolumbkille (County Done- renowned gourmet restaurant. gal): Modern conveniences, such Union Hall’s busy main street is as electricity, came only recently filled with humbler establish- to this village on a tiny cove ments, including a few memorable among the mountains of south- pubs. See chapter 8, “Out from west Donegal, and there’s still a Cork.” sense of stepping back in time • Brandon (County Kerry): This when you enter some of the local town is so small, you could easily pubs and shops. Don’t miss the miss it if you didn’t know it was Folk Museum, which preserves here. Grab a seat at Murphy’s Pub the past in a reconstructed village on the pier and enjoy a pint while of thatched cottages. See chap- you watch the fishermen come in ter 13, “The Northwest.” 3 The Best Free Attractions & Open Sites • National Museum of Ireland • Trinity College (Dublin): (Dublin): This is where most of Although you do have to pay to the nation’s archaeological treas- enter the Old Library, where the ures are kept—the Ardagh Chal- renowned Book of Kells is dis- ice, the Tara Brooch, the Cross of played, the rest of this historic Cong. There’s no better place to campus is free and open for you to get in touch with Dublin’s past, explore. As soon as you pass from the first Viking settlement to through the gates, you leave the the Easter Rising of 1916. On the noises of the city behind and enter same block are the (also free) another world. Watch a cricket National Gallery and Natural match in the College Park, and History Museum. See p. 138. stroll through the college’s cob- bled squares. See p. 139. 6547-8 Ch01.F 2/25/02 10:52 AM Page 9 THE BEST FESTIVALS & SPECIAL EVENTS 9 • Kells (County Kilkenny): This • Black Fort (County Galway): The priory and fortified town is one of dramatic 220-foot (67m) long wall Ireland’s most spectacular medieval of this promontory fort cuts off ruins. Because there’s no visitor access to a small peninsula on center, you’re on your own to Inishmore. Its site is spectacular and explore and to interpret what you the defensive field of sharp stones see; a small book available at the that makes up its front yard is well town post office offers assistance worth negotiating. See p. 418. with the interpretation. See chap- • Carrowkeel (County Sligo): ter 6, “The Southeast.” Eerily isolated atop several steep • Athassel Priory (County Tipper- hills, and connected by sight with ary): The largest medieval priory in nearby Maeve’s Tomb atop Ireland, Athassel is spread in ruins Knocknarea and the Neolithic over 4 acres. Although it’s not as tombs of Carrowmore, this collec- well preserved as Kells, there’s still a tion of passage tombs is among lot here to explore, and the pictur- the earliest surviving records of esque stones are sure to excite your Ireland’s prehistoric peoples.
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