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Corporate Responsibility in the Fast Fashion Industry: How Media Pressure Affected Corporate Disclosure After the Collapse of Rana Plaza

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Corporate Responsibility in the Fast Fashion Industry: How Media Pressure Affected Corporate Disclosure After the Collapse of Rana Plaza CORPORATE RESPONSIBILITY IN THE FAST FASHION INDUSTRY: HOW MEDIA PRESSURE AFFECTED CORPORATE DISCLOSURE AFTER THE COLLAPSE OF RANA PLAZA Elise Marita Faret Auke Dissertation submitted as partial requirement for the conferral of Master in International Management Supervisor: Prof. Ana Margarida Madureira Simaens, Assistant Professor, ISCTE Business School, Department of Marketing Operations and General Management November 2016 PLAZA Elise Marita Faret Auke Faret Marita Elise CORPORATE RESPONSIBILITY IN THE FAST FASHION INDUSTRY: HOW MEDIA MEDIA HOW INDUSTRY: FASHION FAST THE IN RESPONSIBILITY CORPORATE RANA OF COLLAPSE THE AFTER DISCLOSURE CORPORATE AFFECTED PRESSURE Abstract This thesis aims to explore the reasons why companies themselves get involved in CSR initiatives and whether global news media attention has an effect on a company’s CSR disclosure and initiatives. The study draws upon legitimacy theory and media agenda-setting theory to explore the link between CSR disclosure and news coverage in the aftermath of the Rana Plaza collapse in 2013. Four global retails H&M, Walmart, Loblaw and Primark were deliberately chosen at the center of the analysis, for their different CSR profiles and their involvement in the Rana Plaza collapse. The thesis is divided into three parts; each part explores in an inductive approach CSR before, during and after the collapse of Rana Plaza. The result of the research and data analysis shows that the disclosures varied depending on the company's CSR profile. The media coverage was different depending on the company's CSR initiatives and pro-activity in relation to the collapse. One company got a substantial amount of positive media coverage, while another got a great deal of negative media attention. The result from the comparison with the disclosures shows that two companies did put effort to improve their disclosure and transparency in their disclosure of CSR activities, while the two other companies were less transparent. This research has shown how preexisting reputation determines how a company is portrayed to the public by the media when it comes to major events and that negative media pressure does not necessary make for more or better disclosures. Keywords: Corporate Social Responsibility, Corporate Disclosure, Rana Plaza, Media Pressure JEL Classification System: M14 Corporate Culture • Diversity • Social Responsibility L82 Entertainment • Media Resumo Esta tese pretende explorar as razões pelas quais as próprias empresas se envolvem em iniciativas de Responsabilidade Social Corporativa (RSC) e se a atenção mediática global tem efeito na divulgação e iniciativas de RSC de uma empresa. O estudo baseia-se na teoria da legitimidade e na teoria do agendamento para explorar a relação entre divulgação da RSC e cobertura mediática na sequência do desabamento do Rana Plaza em 2013. Quatro retalhistas internacionais, H&M, Walmart, Loblaw e Primark, foram especificamente escolhidos como foco da análise, devido aos seus distintos perfis de i RSC e o seu envolvimento no desabamento do Rana Plaza. Esta tese está dividida em três partes, sendo que cada uma explora, numa abordagem indutiva, o antes, o durante e o depois do desabamento. O resultado da pesquisa e análise dos dados mostram que as divulgações variaram dependendo do perfil de RSC das empresas. A cobertura mediática também foi diferente, dependendo nas iniciativas de RSC das empresas e a sua proatividade perante o desabamento. Enquanto uma empresa recebeu uma considerável cobertura mediática positiva, outra deparou-se com muita atenção mediática negativa. O resultado da comparação das divulgações mostra que duas empresas se esforçaram por melhorar as suas divulgações e a transparência das mesmas nas suas atividades de RSC, enquanto as duas outras empresas foram menos transparentes. Esta pesquisa demonstrou como a reputação preexistente determina a forma como uma empresa é retratada pela imprensa quando se trata de acontecimentos importantes e que a pressão mediática negativa não implica mais ou melhores divulgações. Palavras-chave: Responsabilidade Social Corporativa, Divulgação de informação empresarial, Rana Plaza, Pressão mediática Sistema de classificação JEL: M14 Cultura Corporativa • Diversidade • Responsabilidade Social L82 Entretenimento • Meios de comunicação social ii Index Abstract ....................................................................................................................................... i Resumo ........................................................................................................................................ i Table of Figures ......................................................................................................................... v List of Tables .............................................................................................................................. v List of Abbreviations .................................................................................................................. v 1. Introduction ......................................................................................................................... 1 1.1. Corporate Social Responsibility .................................................................................. 1 1.1.1. Corporate Social Responsibility in fast fashion industry ..................................... 2 1.1.2. Can fast fashion be sustainable? ........................................................................... 3 1.2. Prior research ............................................................................................................... 4 1.3. Object of study ............................................................................................................. 5 1.4. Research questions ...................................................................................................... 6 2. Background ......................................................................................................................... 8 2.1. Ready-made Garment Industry in Bangladesh ............................................................ 8 2.2. The collapse of Rana Plaza ........................................................................................ 10 2.3. CSR initiatives after the collapse: the Accord and the Alliance ................................ 11 2.3.1. Accord for Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh .......................................... 11 2.3.2. The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety ..................................................... 12 2.4. Company profiles ...................................................................................................... 14 3. Corporate disclosure practices before the collapse of Rana Plaza .................................... 16 3.1. Theoretical framework .............................................................................................. 16 3.1.1. Legitimacy theory .............................................................................................. 16 3.2. Methodology .............................................................................................................. 19 3.2.1. Global Reporting Initiative – GRI ...................................................................... 20 3.3. The result from the companies .................................................................................. 23 3.3.1. Standard Disclosure: Profile ............................................................................... 23 3.3.2. Standard Disclosure: Performance Indicator ...................................................... 25 3.4. Discussion .................................................................................................................. 28 3.5. Conclusion ................................................................................................................. 29 4. News coverage after the Rana Plaza collapse ................................................................... 30 4.1. Theoretic framework ................................................................................................. 30 4.1.1. Agenda-setting, priming and framing ................................................................ 30 4.2. Methodology .............................................................................................................. 33 iii 4.3. Data collection and Coding ....................................................................................... 33 4.4. Coding table ............................................................................................................... 35 4.5. Results ....................................................................................................................... 37 4.6. Discussion .................................................................................................................. 46 4.7. Conclusion ................................................................................................................. 47 5. Corporate disclosure practices after the collapse of Rana Plaza ....................................... 48 5.1. Theoretical framework .............................................................................................. 48 5.1.1. Legitimation strategies ....................................................................................... 48 5.2. Methodology .............................................................................................................
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