Submitted by Mohammad Mezbah UDDIN

Submitted at Institute of International Management

a.Univ.- Prof. Dr. Erna Szabo MBA Supervisor

a.Univ.-Prof. Dr. Elke Schüßler “IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA Co-Supervisor

SENTIMENT ON COMPLIANCE WITH August 2020 WORKPLACE HEALTH AND SAFETY STANDARDS IN THE BANGLADESHI TEXTILE INDUSTRY”

Master Thesis to obtain the academic degree of Master of Science in the Master’s Program

General management

JOHANNES KEPLER UNIVERSITY LINZ Altenberger Str. 69 4040 Linz, Austria www.jku.at DVR 0093696

STATUTORY DECLARATION

I hereby declare that the thesis submitted is my own unaided work, that I have not used other than the sources indicated, and that all direct and indirect sources are acknowledged as references.

This printed thesis is identical with the electronic version submitted.

Place, Date

Linz, 20.08.2020

------Mohammad Mezbah UDDIN

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Acknowledgements

First and foremost, I would love to thank my family members for their unconditional support since the very beginning of my studies, both from Bangladesh and Austria.

I would like to express my deepest gratitude to a.Univ.- Prof. Dr. Erna Szabo MBA for her precious feedback on my work and for her constant encouragement throughout these thesis study.

I would like to thank Univ. Prof. Dr. Elke Schüßler, who took over my mentoring and was helping me through the progress and finalizing of the thesis. I am truly thankful for my co-supervisor Univ. Prof. Dr. Elke Schüßler for her patience and persistent feedback throughout my writing, her guidance and experience did a big favour for my writing.

In terms of research interview, I have to express my gratitude to the manager and executive of Interstoff Apparels Limited, Genesis Washing Limited and M&J Group as well as M&S Bangladesh Sourcing office and AUCHAN who allowed me several hours of their precious time to conduct interviews. Besides, I would love to thank all my ex-colleagues of the Interstoff Apparels Limited, who became great colleagues and friends’ supporters along the way.

I also thank my friends back home and friends in Austria who showed support, enthusiasm, and in believing me, which gave me a major boost of motivation and inspiration.

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Table of Contents

1. Problem statement ...... 8 2. Introduction ...... 9 Theoretical framework ...... 11 3. General sentiment in social media ...... 11 3.1. Social media sentiment in workplace health and safety issues ...... 14 3.2. Nature of news media coverage impact on MNC and RMG workplace health and safety ...... 18 3.3. Sentiment of local RMG industries from different social media post ...... 21 4. Methodology ...... 24 4.1. Method of data collection - interviews ...... 25 4.2. Data analysis ...... 29 5. Findings ...... 32 5.1. Workplace health and safety issue after the Rana Plaza tragedy ...... 32 Incidents since 2005 (Before Rana Plaza) ...... 38 Lack of monitoring ...... 40 5.2. Impact of social media on workplace health and safety ...... 43 Accord, Alliance and other social organizations ...... 44 Fire and building safety...... 48 5.3. Compensation ...... 56 6. Discussion ...... 59 7. Limitations and further research ...... 66 8. Conclusion ...... 67 List of references ...... 69 Appendix ...... 77

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Table of figures Figure 1: Concept of the thesis ...... 8 Figure 2: Survey of U.S. adults ...... 13 Figure 3: News post from Facebook verified page ...... 21 Figure 4: Steps of qualitative research ...... 25 Figure 5: Rana Plaza before and after the tragedy ...... 32 Figure 6: Tags of brands in Rana Plaza collapse ...... 35 Figure 7: Incidents since 2005 (Before Rana Plaza) ...... 39 Figure 8: After Rana Plaza few changes in RMG ...... 51

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Table of tables Table 1: Facebook fan page of different organization’s about Rana Plaza ...... 22 Table 2: YouTube documentary about Rana Plaza ...... 22 Table 3: Newspaper coding according title ...... 27 Table 4: Name of companies and candidates to be interviewed ...... 28 Table 5: Process of template ...... 30 Table 6: Preliminary codes and sub codes ...... 31 Table 7: Brands linked to Rana Plaza ...... 37 Table 8: General sentiment in social media impact on workplace health and safety standard ....43 Table 9: Recommendation for brands and retailers ...... 54 Table 10: Recommendations for factory owners ...... 54 Table 11: Responsible authority and outcome ...... 55

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Abbreviations

RMG- Ready-made garments ILO-International Labour Organization GSP-Generalized System of Preferences MNC-Multinational Corporation BGMEA-Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association MFA-Multi Fiber Arrangements WHO-World Health Organization CCC-Clean Clothes Campaign ILRF-International Labour Rights Forum WRC-Worker Rights Consortium BUET-Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology NTPA-Bangladesh National Tripartite Action Plan MoLE-Ministry of Labour and Employment CPD-Centre for Policy Dialogue RAJUK- Rajdhani Unnayan Kartripakkha BNBC-Bangladesh National Building Code CSR- Corporate Social Responsibilities PPE- personal protective equipment

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1. Problem statement

The primary challenge faced by Bangladeshi Ready-Made Garments (RMG) industry occurred after the Rana Plaza incident, as an eight-story commercial building collapsed in Saver Bangladesh on April 24, 2013. 1133 out of approximate 5000 workers died and a further 2438 injured (Jacobs & Singhal, 2017). Bangladeshi RMG had previously experienced industrial accidents with the Tazreen Fashions fires killing 112 in 2012 and the Spectrum collapse of 2005 killing 64 people. After these incidents, the level of compliance got highest importance in the RMG industries. This thesis paper will tackle the substantial changes in the Bangladeshi RMG sector in-terms of compliance as well as health & safety issues after the Rana Plaza incidence due to the intervention of social media Figure 1. However, this compliance issue existed before, but after the Rana Plaza building collapsed April 24, 2013, it becomes more critical.

RANA RMG EU/U.S. Compliance PLAZA Industry pressure issues Outcome Image

Impact of social media

Figure 1: Concept of the thesis

Source: author own source

Therefore, it has become a major concern for the United States (U.S.), European Union (EU) clothing brands and simultaneously the RMG industry in Bangladesh. After Rana Plaza catastrophe, Bangladeshi garment manufacturers received compliance and auditing pressure from their buyers, government, Multinational Corporation (MNC), an International and local organisation. Evidently, many elements are involved in compliance, as an example, building construction and fire safety, workplace health and safety standard, working hour, local government infrastructure, logistics and supply chain issues, child labour, environmental protection and so on. Whatsoever, all those prone issues got all in a sudden highest priority because; social media has played a potential role to engage the world communities. At the end, the long-term industry bad practices have been drastically changed.

This thesis focuses on the impact of workplace health and safety standard issues in the context of MNC policies and practices in the RMG industries in Bangladesh, as well as social media coverage related to this situation. However, the workplace health and safety standard issues are

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got spotted after Rana Plaza crisis because media have shown that working condition in RMG not satisfactory. It could be said that, healthy workplace could be like, where both workers and management do cooperate to use a continual improvement process to shelter and promote the health and safety issues for the particular workplace (Burton, 2010).

2. Introduction

RMG industry has a pivotal role in the Bangladesh economy. Thereupon, RMG is considered as a multi-billion-dollar export industry in the territory. Since 1976, production has contributed only a 0.01 per cent to the country's total export, it has grown by 2015 over 83.79 percent of total export (Haider, 2007; Practice, 2011). For that reason, a good number of academic publications have been researched and found that the financial performance of FY (financial Year) 2013-15 was the highest earnings from BD RMG sector was around 25 Billion US Dollars (Ansary & Barua, 2015). Although, the sector o it began its journey in the late 1970s (Ansary & Barua, 2015). Since then, the RMG sector has changed the Bangladesh's export market, which has facilitated the economy of the country. In fact, during the last 49 years, the RMG industry has contributed to export earnings, foreign exchange earnings, employment creation, poverty alleviation and the women empowerment (Baral, 2010; Haider, 2007; M. A. Rahman & Hossain, 2010). In addition, United States of America (USA) and the European Union (EU) are considered as the main export market of Bangladeshi RMG; however, 90 percent of total earnings from export garments are coming from these two destinations.

As noted by Labowitz et al. (2014) the garment sector has been an incredible driver of economic growth and societal development in Bangladesh. However, present literate societies have witnessed the past several industrial accidents, political turmoil, energy crises and more importantly, the lack of compliance in RMG with national and international standards in a working environment which the garments are to be produced (Baral, 2010). Therefore, the message is clear to all that structural improvements, involving health and safety, inspection and compliance had to be made (Reddy, 2017). The term compliance refers to:

“Comply with something or yield to the wishes of another. Compliance ensures all labour rights and facilities according to the buyer code of conduct. Compliance aims to maintain the labour law strictly.” (Baral, 2010, p. 120).

The term “code of conduct” in the context of compliance in RMG has been extended to refer to different code of conduct-topics by multiple organizations, e.g. International Labour Organization’s (ILO’s) statement on child labour, whereas employment conditions includes harassment & abuse,

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wages, working hours, leave & holidays. Similarly, occupational health & safety includes workplace safety conditions, welfare, safety environment and women's rights. That is why in recent years, there has been an increasing interest among RMG importing countries and consumers are so keen to stablish internationally recognised standards. Therefore, RMG suppliers in Bangladesh have to improve factory social compliance (Baral, 2010; M. A. Rahman & Hossain, 2010). In the meantime, many textile industries did not meet the minimum requirements of building and construction legislation, therefore experiencing accidents like the Rana Plaza building collapse April 24, 2013 or fire incidence like Tazreen Fashions on November 24, 2012.

However, since the post-independence period, RMG became a giant sector in the industrial gross domestic product (GDP). Indeed, among the top five industrial sectors in Bangladesh, RMG is considered as number one and the others are respectively, pharmaceuticals, bidi (a sort of local derivative of cigarette tobacco), printing and publication, and re-rolling (Yunus & Yamagata, 2012). Specifically, over the past 40 years, there has been a significant increase in industrial growth in Bangladesh. This can be seen during the 1990s where about three-fifths of export earnings came from RMG; namely, Woven and Knit RMGs. Therefore, the dominant RMG industry has acquired the topmost position in the BD export arena in last decade. Furthermore, another most significant aspect of RMGs is creating employment scopes for more than million skilled and semi-skilled women workers.

This master thesis is qualitative research that sets out to assess the effect of social media sentiment on compliance with workplace health and safety standard in the Bangladesh RMG industry. The thesis also highlights the role of social media in the development of workplace safety issues and “the impact of social media on the outcome of a corporate crisis.”

For this objective, the following research questions have been discussed, which could be stated in a main interest point and two sub-points:

How did the general sentiment in social media impact workplace health and safety standard compliance of the Bangladeshi RMG industry after the Rana Plaza catastrophe?

“The term sentiment refers to the "opinion mining" which analyses the opinions, feelings, evaluations, attitudes and emotions of people with regard to products, service, organizations, individuals, issues, events, topics and their attributes (Liu, 2012, p. 7).”

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In this case, opinions are also key human behaviours which are relevant in the decision-making process. Usually, each organization attempts to find the customer or public opinion in the real world (Liu, 2012).

Based on the Rana Plaza case-study, the following sub-questions will be investigated:

• How does the level or nature of news media coverage affect companies like M&S, GAP, and H&M, i.e. the RMG industry, after such a catastrophic event?

• How did the local RMG industries in Bangladesh react to news posts of varying sentiment from different types of media posts?

Theoretical framework

3. General sentiment in social media

Due to the explosive growth of social media (Liu, 2012) (e.g. sharing on social networking sites, commentaries, reviews, micro-blogs, and blogs), companies and individuals are constantly using social media to make decisions. Similarly, social media is currently one of the most important means of news and information, since people are obtaining a large fraction of their daily news through social media. Most of the traditional news channels are using social media to catch the attention of users (Kumar, Nagalla, Marwah, & Singh, 2018).

Commonly, there are three types of news sources in the world, which are television, radio and print media. Generally, research shows that 62% of adults in the U.S. are reportedly getting their news from social media. Furthermore, traditional news channels have started generating and disseminating news through various social media platforms (Kumar et al., 2018). Finally, we have seen a huge growth of social media in the last few years, which is one of the fastest growing segments on the web (Parra-López, Bulchand-Gidumal, Gutiérrez-Taño, & Díaz-Armas, 2011). We have seen different categories of social media: social networking sites, social news (newspaper post), media sharing (TV, radio, Facebook, YouTube, twitter etc.), blogs and microblogging, etc.

Specifically, social networking sites (SNSs) are platforms where people can connect with each other, e.g. Facebook, Twitter and Myspace, etc. Additionally, these platforms allow users to create customized profiles within a bounded system. This is why, all popular newspapers connected with social networking sites like Facebook and Twitter, which can disseminate their news effectively to

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a large population (Bandari, Asur, & Huberman, 2012). Also, many organizations use social media technology such as blogs to communicate with their external audience. Such portals function as a self-representative extension of an organization, shape stakeholders’ perceptions, connect with audiences, solicit feedback, and engage community building (Gegenhuber & Dobusch, 2016).

“Social media includes social sharing of opinions through blogs and microblogs (i.e. Blogger and Twitter), social photo and video sharing (i.e. Flickr and YouTube), social sharing of knowledge (i.e. Wikipedia) (Parra-López et al., 2011, p. 640).”

In fact, social media has revolutionized and exposed individuals to other people's lives, not only from a business but also from an academic standpoint. Today, social media has emerged as a powerful platform, while the number of users is increasing to share and debate news online. For example, bloggers have different levels of political knowledge which demonstrate unequal social power (Wei, 2009). Furthermore, bloggers use social media platforms to communicate with common people while simultaneously influencing as many audiences as possible. Particularly, different levels of political knowledge demonstrate unequal social knowledge: research shows that 8% of internet users in the U.S. keep a blog for 39% of all internet users (Agarwal & Liu, 2012).

According to Zhao, et al. (2018) social media has emerged as an essential part of the public to voice their views, which is especially emphasized when an organisation is in crisis. As an illustration, organisations such as General Motors and the San Diego regional airport already found that blogs are the most effective tactic for managing crises (Jin & Liu, 2010).

For this thesis paper theoretical analysis, a time frame of April 2013 to April 2019 is considered, for newspaper posts two dominant newspapers publishers have been considered, for blogs and scientific articles the afore mentioned timeframe is considered. In this study, the theoretical part will depend on the accessing of longitudinal data from the online newspaper of Dhaka and U.S. along with scientific articles about Rana plaza. Furthermore, workplace safety related data that is publicly available (interactions taking place on the World Wide Web on social media platforms) also considered.

There are a number of significant advantages in using online data: “(a) longitudinal data can be obtained (year and decade); (b) researchers can go back to past for analysis of new categories because the data is available near to indefinitely; (c) the data is immune to the social desirability bias, i.e. it is not subject to the traditional response biases” (Levina & Vaast, 2015, p. 216).

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A research on Pew Research Centre shows that one-in-five U.S. adults get news via social media (Sherrer, 2018). From 2016 to 2018 social has media’s small edge over print media. on the other hand, steady declines in newspaper circulation and modest increases in smart technology as a result more people use social media Figure 2. The portion of people who get news via social media and news from print media are almost equal. The next most popular source is the news websites, followed by radio and eventually social media pages and print newspapers. Among all, the most popular platform for news consumption is television. Moreover, a Pew Research Centre suggests that, when online news use combined 43% of adults get news often from a news website or social media, whereas compared with television 49% of their information stems from television (Sherrer, 2018).

Figure 2: Survey of U.S. adults

Source: Pew Research Centre print newspaper U.S. source (2018)

The total majority who gets their information via television primarily includes the demographic of people over 50 years old. In contrast, if we look at the young generation of Americans who watch television news, it is only 16% of the population aged 18-29, which is double the amount of the generation 30 to 49 years old (Sherrer, 2018). Overall, online news websites is the most popular among 30 to 49-year-old people.

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However, Due to the inherent lack of regulation in social media, exploitation is spreading more negative, fraudulent and aggressive news. In comparison, radio and print media post more positive news compared to broadcasting channels like television (TV). Basically, this difference is not only linked to the story that is covered, but also how the same information is represented by different types of channels. Social media allows their users to express opinions about the news by sharing, liking and commenting on the post. In the first place, the newspaper strives to awake the reader’s sentiment to get his/her attention (Kumar et al., 2018).

3.1. Social media sentiment in workplace health and safety issues

In general terms, workplace safety means a safe and healthy working environment that addresses the worker’s fundamental human rights, certain standards of mental or physical health (Burton, 2010). The World Health Organization (WHO) regional office defines a healthy workplace as follows:

“A healthy workplace is a place where everyone works together achieve an agreed vision for the health and well-being of workers and the surrounding community. it provides workforce with physical, psychological, social and organizational condition which protect and promote health and safety (Burton, 2010, p. 15).”

Basically, workers should be safe from mental or physical harm. Indeed, there is no specific template of workplace health and safety that can be followed but there are a few basic guidelines for ideal workplace which will differ from industry to industry and company to company (Burton, 2010, p. 9). Certainly, the prime objective of workplace health and safety is to create a supportive work environment, health promotion and protection, by ensuring total organizational participation.

According to Burton, (2010, p. 23) in any healthy workplace program which promote five principles that must be established:

• Comprehensive: including a range of individual and organizational actions which create a healthy and safe environment furthermore behaviour change • Participatory and empowering: everyone in the organization (worker at all levels) involved to find a solution • Multisector and multidisciplinary cooperation: wide range of sectors and professionals must be involved • Social justice: include all members without regard for rank, gender, ethnic group or employment designation

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• Sustainability: change must be incorporated into the workplace culture and management practices

Coupled with the WHO guidelines, ILO has promoted community-based workplace improvement initiatives such as workplace improvement for safe home in Asian countries. This participatory action-oriented training programmes includes six principles are (Burton, 2010, p. 24):

1. Build on local practice 2. Use learning by doing 3. Appreciate exchange experience 4. Create link between working conditions with other management goal 5. Focus on achievements 6. Promote workers involvement

These participants are encouraged to share ideas and solve problems together with a series of short training course with small groups including owners or managers of companies. As a result, these training programs make significant improvements to the health and safety of the workplace.

Whereas, safety is a very serious issue, especially, if it is the concern of workers wellbeing. Therefore, safety lapses are serious matters and the authorities concerned are harshly punished by the safety regulatory authorities for any acts of omission and commission (Uddin & Hossain, 2009, p 3). RMG industry safety issues include (Accord, 2019):

• Electrical safety (bad electric wiring, wires left uncovered and overloaded electrical outlets and boxes) • Fire safety (locked and obstacle emergency exits, lack of fire alarm testing and fire drills) • Building safety, structural hazards (cracks in columns, walls, sagging floor, crumbling walls) • Machine hazards (lack of guards, poor maintenance of machines, lack of training for machine operator, lack of personal protective equipment) • Chemicals hazards (if they are not properly stored) • Hazard leading to slippery floors, obstacles on the work floor • Ergonomic hazards (long hours of work, poor lighting, lack of ventilation and cooling, excessive working positions and undue body stress)

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All things considered, worker safety in RMG demands “emergency exit in each floor, number of fire extinguishers, doctors and nurses are always available or not and electrical safety confirmation because most of the fires occur from electrical short-circuits of poor electrical wiring” (Uddin & Hossain, 2009, p 5). Similarly, chemical, machine, electrical and workplace hazards like slips and falls from heights and flying fragments need to be confirmed to avoid eye injury (Burton, 2010). In fact, “these kind of hazards can be associated with injuries in either a direct or indirect manner” (Burton, 2010, p. 25).

In November 25th, 2000, there was an incident at Chowdhury knitwear and garment factory, where at least 48 workers were killed and more than 150 injured because of factory fire. Survivors and fire fighters mentioned that the exit gate was locked and workers tried to escape from there. Even though, most of the incident in Bangladesh was happened due to the safety measures and compliance. Even then, the factory building did not have a proper fire exit and staircase. Also, there was a lack of trained workers who could help the workers. Another reason is that the air circulation is congested and restrictive, and the working space is not ventilated. According to Uddin et al (2009) the present problems of some RMG factories can be listed as follows:

• Artificial lighting and poor natural light system • Haphazardly kept combustible materials • Escape routes are crammed with workstations and stores • Illegal Circuitry, overload on electricity and electrical system electrical design and improper wiring • Careless smoking in undesignated area and spitting habits • Insufficient number of staircases • Locked or very narrow exit points at ground level • Lack of emergency lighting • Lack of smoke masks • Heat generated from steam iron and boiler section

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and Bangladesh government have taken several measures to address the safety issues in RMG industries (Uddin & Hossain, 2009).

Returning to the Rana Plaza incident, Jacobs et al. (2017) addressed worker safety to become a paramount priority for Bangladeshi readymade garment (RMG) industries. This due to retailers’ (of MNC clothing brands) demands for safe working conditions. In general, such a safety working condition requires collaboration and engagement among stakeholders, national governments,

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factory owners, buyers and Non-Governmental Organisations (NGOs). However, after Rana Plaza collapse Accord, Alliance and National Initiative work together with MNCs furthermore RMG industries in Bangladesh for the reason, become safe and stay safe for millions of workers (Accord, 2013). These are the organization has an independent, legally binding agreement between brands and trade unions to work towards a safe and healthy garment and textile industry in Bangladesh (Accord, 2013; Alliance, 2013).

According to the New York Times reporter Biraj (2012) debate that when factory fires in Pakistan and Bangladesh have killed more than 400 people. This newspaper has reported who is responsible for worker safety in abroad. Because, before the incident of a garment factory Tazreen Fashions, near Dhaka, Bangladesh that international attention was focused to government officials and global companies about labour conditions and tighten safety standards (Manik & Yardley, 2013). Nevertheless, after the Rana Plaza incident it has been shown a continued failure to take meaningful actions. As reported in The Daily Star newspaper (Bangladesh), retailers woke up after Rana Plaza building collapse and have begun to make change to way of monitoring RMG factories (“Avoiding workplace disaster: UK govt summons 20 retailers,” 2013). According D. S. Islam, (2015) a workplace for a garment worker can be worse than a prison. Later, the ILO office in Dhaka Bangladesh shows statistics that each year; about 11.7 thousand workers suffer fatal accidents. At the same time, 24.5 thousand workers die from work-related diseases and another 8 million workers suffer from injuries at work (S. Islam, 2015). Similarly, female workers suffer sexual harassment and get abused at their workplace (Raihan et al., 2017). It has been reported by Accord (2018) that in workplace need to ensure that workers (specially women) are immune sexual harassment (verbal or physical), threat of violence at workplace (pushing, slapping, fighting), Inadequate break time (long working hour), Maternity leave and pay and Freedom of choice to join associations.

Particularly, in many developed and developing countries safety of workers in workplace violence is a serious concern. Sometimes violence occurred due to the reason of imbalance between effort and reward to workers namely which is leading to feelings of anger, which may manifest itself in many ways. Especially, majority of the case women who experience far more than man. Sexual harassment is significantly higher for women at workplace (Burton, 2010).

After the Rana Plaza disaster, which claimed to improve health and safety at the workplace in Bangladesh's RMG sector. This problem also draws attention to worldwide public interest, media attention, multiple domestic and international organizations (Right, 2018). Equally, three of these organizations are the Accord on fire and building safety in Bangladesh, the Alliance for the safety of workers in Bangladesh and the National Tripartite Action Plan (NTP) on fire safety and structural integrity in the garment sector in Bangladesh (Accord, 2013; Alliance, 2013; Right, 2018). The

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primary purpose of these organizations is to ensure the safety of workers in clothing industry by ensuring the structural, fire and electrical equipment safety.

3.2. Nature of news media coverage impact on MNC and RMG workplace health and safety

Many organisations such as Labour unions, popular press and social media criticised retailers due to their inability to ensure safe working conditions in RMG industries of Bangladesh. Sinkovics et al. (2016) highlighted the consequences after the Rana Plaza incident stating that all the Bangladeshi RMGs obtain compliance and auditing pressures from MNCs as well as from local government and other human rights organisations. Johan Lubbe a legal adviser to the National Retail Federation said that when a Bangladeshi factory burns or collapses and workers die, then consumers mostly blame retailers that brought textile products from the factory (Greenhouse, 2013a). Because MNCs have legal obligations under the Accord (Greenhouse, 2013e). John C. Coffee Jr., a professor of corporate law at Columbia University, said that for all those legal obligations, U.S. retailers faced more pressure than Europe, though both courts are generally against the prohibit class action lawsuits. Professor Coffee also pointing that:

“If an accident occurred abroad for instance RMG in Bangladesh there is possibilities the American retailer could be sued in U.S. courts such lawsuits under the Alien Tort Claims Act.”

Similarly, Scott Nova, executive director of the Worker Rights Consortium (WRC), added that when a safety plan was drawn up, foreign workers sued American retailers for low wages, working hours and unsafe working conditions (Greenhouse, 2013e). Subsequently, Mr. Nova also added that retailers should pay attention to safety upgrades, possibly fire escape and working conditions, when buying clothing from the RMG in Bangladesh (Greenhouse, 2013e). Paul Lister, director of legal services at Associated British Foods acknowledged that “we urgently underline the moral and ethical issues of building and fire safety in Bangladesh” (Greenhouse, 2013e). Anna Gedda, a manager of H&M, also supports this statement (Greenhouse, 2013e).

More recent attention has focused on the provision of Hennes & Maurits (2017) that all the factories who manufactured products for the H&M group have to confirm safe workplace for every worker is the critical concerns for them. “H&M was the first company who signed the Accord fire and building safety issues.” Moreover, H&M group committed to working together with other companies, labour unions, and Bangladesh government to actively influence and contribute to

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improving workplace safety in the RMG industry (Khan & Wichterich, 2015). Furthermore, H&M, Marks & Spencer (M&S), and GAP Inc. demanded that all factories producing products for them have to maintain workplace safety like emergency exits on each floor, fire alarm installed, emergency light, evacuation plans, regular evacuation drills for all employees, etc.(H&M, 2017; Inc., 2017; M&S, 2017).

Workplace safety issues appears to be positively correlated with news media coverage. This can have a crucial role in improving social performance, compliance issue and accountability of RMG industries located in Bangladesh. Which may produce a good quality product furthermore promote ethical issues for Multinational Buying Companies (MBCs) (Deegan & Islam, 2014). Surveys such as these conducted by Labowitz et al. (2014) have shown that the relationship between the buyer and supplier (RMG industries in Bangladesh) is based on the buyer’s tacit. Typically, the buyer promises the supplier to place future order under the condition if the supplier fulfils the buyer’s expectations, such as reasonable quality, price and, more importantly and level of compliance.

When the Tazreen Fashions fair happened, Western companies had promised to act on workers' safety issues. However, later the collapse of Rana Plaza, the media continued to build pressure on worldwide apparel brands, because they were already committed to improve the working condition in RMG industries in Bangladesh. Hence, Joe Fresh -a Canadian retailer - defended that we will working with Bangladeshi RMG and understand them how to handle the situation during the crisis time (Manik, Greenhouse, & Yardley, 2013). For this purpose, approximately twenty-four retailers, including Walmart, Gap, Carrefour and Li & Fung, meet with officials of the German Government and NGOs near Frankfurt on workplace health and safety issues in RMG in Bangladesh (Greenhouse, 2013b). Therefore, companies have said that they now feel tremendous pressure from labour advocacy organizations and the media to assist create factory changes like fire escapes. Thereupon, Kalpona Akter, executive director of the Bangladesh Centre for Workers' Solidarity, said that all clothing brands should ensure that the building structure of the factory inspections is also reviewed (Greenhouse, 2013b).

Afterwards, the Bangladeshi labour union claimed that they found production documents of Disney-brand textile inside the Tazreen Fashions after the fire. In addition, the author also mentions that newly found documents inside the Rana Plaza which indicate that Rana Plaza factory products had been manufactured for Wal-Mart. Indeed, the Bangladesh Centre for Workers Solidarity supplied The New York Times with pictures and several records. Remarkably, which indicating that a Canadian contractor of Wal-Mart company had manufactured jeans at the Ether Tex Factory last year. This factory had been situated on the fifth floor of the Rana Plaza (Greenhouse, 2013c). Because of this, as American distributors face pressures from the media,

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union and other social organizations (Greenhouse, 2013c). Eventually, Wal-Mart announced to stop production at factories if the safe issues are uncovered.

According to Alderman (2013) there was a demonstration in front of the Swedish H&M headquarters. With this in mind, consumers had a placard titled “Enough Fashion Victims” and a photo of an anguished lady in the Rana Plaza rubble (Alderman, 2013). During that time, the worldwide advocacy group is creating an ad called “Avaaz” that distributed an online petition grinding over 900,000 signatures. Eventually, Avaaz's campaign to influence H&M's signing of the Fair and Building Safety in Bangladesh's RMG (Alderman, 2013). Finally, H&M, including other European brands, signed the Accord after the Avaaz campaign.

However, Different NGOs and social organizations still criticise retailers. Moreover, international coordinator for the Clean Clothes Campaign, Ineke Zeldenrust, said “this was exactly the right thing to do three years ago— but they didn't do it” (Alderman, 2013). The Bangladesh labour law bill 2013 was amended after the collapse of Rana Plaza. For this reason, a total of 87 sections of the Labour Act 2006 were amended by the new law (Society, 2013). Hence, the Law amendment including allowing trade unions to be formed without the owner of the factory knowing about it (Society, 2013). Additionally, other legislative amendments including financial arbitration, ensuring worker safety at work, mandatory workers election, and compulsory group insurance policies (Society, 2013). Indeed, the new law says that if any change needed in the factory layout plan, it must be inspected by the inspectors. In addition, Mr. Siddiqur Rahman, president of BGMEA stated that around 3,978 factories have been inspected for combined efforts of the three safety initiatives for building, fire and electrical safety. Though this effort is supported by Nazma Akter, president of Sammilito Garment Sramik Federation, she acknowledges many factories to be in an ongoing safety process not yet completed (Greenhouse, 2013e). She also said workplace health and safety processes are yet to reach their required standards.

The Rana Plaza catastrophe inspired the country’s apparel industry. For this reason, local governmental units, the European Union, the ILO and apparel retailers to improve working conditions and increasing monitoring initiatives in the RMG sector. Above all this control, two monitoring regimes have emerged: the US-led Alliance and the EU-led Accord establishing fire and building safety programmes (Greenhouse, 2013c; S. Rahman, 2016). After these programmes, ILO project designed to support the Bangladesh government as well as National Tripartite Plan of Action on fire safety and Structural Integrity. This is a third key initiative for better working conditions in Bangladesh. In response to Rana Plaza, multi-stakeholder initiatives such as the Accord and Alliance aimed at securing internationally acceptable factories, labour and environmental standards (S. Rahman, 2016). On the other hand, several policymakers (i.e. politicians, decision makers and industry expert) discovers a strained relationship between local

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government, Accord and Alliance. In addition, the finance minister of Bangladesh, Abul Maal Abdul Muhith, in a meeting in June 2015 with BGMEA and BKMEA leaders he said that Accord and Alliance “doing interfere many internal issues in RMG” (S. Rahman, 2016). Similarly, Tofail Ahmed, the commerce minister stated that government would not extend the Accord and Alliance program. According to their statement, local government wants to control the RMG industry autonomously (S. Rahman, 2016).

3.3. Sentiment of local RMG industries from different social media post

The Daily Star has a Facebook fan page with around 3,134,938 massive fans all over the world. Therefore, when a post or article that is linked to Facebook is published online, people express their sentiment, affection, respond to victims as well as to multinational brands and local textile organization.

Figure 3 revealed few comments from the Daily Star's checked fan page. On the Facebook page, Chairman of the Bangladesh Chhatra (English Student) Federation wrote that “I was never the same because we worked as volunteers during Rana Plaza” (Star, 2019). Also, Daily Star newspaper publishes a picture of a woman in tears holding a family member's photo ID card who died in Rana Plaza's collapse.

Figure 3: News post from Facebook verified page

Source: The Daily Star Facebook fan page

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Likewise, the numerous Facebook fan pages and their supporters have shared comments, pictures and videos about the safety concerns seen in Figure 3. Consequently, this social media page posts article about the tragedy of Rana Plaza and the general public's awareness of the workplace health and safety of workers (Burton, 2010). The Rana Plaza is undoubtedly the worst nightmare for the industry, and we do believe (Fitch & Ferdous, 2014). On the one hand, this tragedy is a “wake up call” for the RMG industry in Bangladesh. Because, this tragedy has helped to reorganize the RMG industry workplace health and safety. Afterwards, factory owners, government and buyers are all cautious about compliance issues.

Facebook verified and non-verified page Followers International Labour Organization 455,292 The New York Times 16,764,476 The Daily Star 3,092,034 ActionAid Bangladesh 130,888 Rana Plaza Disaster - Savar, Bangladesh 2,305 RANA PLAZA 1,132 RMG Bangladesh 236,643

Table 1: Facebook fan page of different organization’s about Rana Plaza

Source: Author own source

In brief, Table 2 shows that on the tragedy of the Rana Plaza there has been a gradual number of documentary releases. Indeed, people watched the documentary about these issues in social media such as YouTube. Hence, gave their reaction to this catastrophic event. Finally, if we look at each video's number of viewers and their share of clips, that is massive.

YouTube documentary Views 'The True Cost' 1,546,980 Rana Plaza Collapse Documentary: The Deadly Cost of Fashion 379,339 Bangladesh: the rana plaza tragedy 83,294 The Full Story of the Rana Plaza Factory Disaster 187,381 Building a culture of Occupational Safety and Health in RMG sector in 408 Bangladesh Undercover in a Bangladesh clothing factory 87,926 On the first anniversary of Rana Plaza Tragedy - A tribute from the 120,321 Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) The true cost of fast fashion The Economist 378,497

Table 2: YouTube documentary about Rana Plaza Source: Developed by Author

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Returning to workplace safety in the RMG sector in post Rana Plaza period. Mr. Wayss, (News, 2018), says that they had a list of 2000 factories on which the assigned to Accord. Similarly, Accord had committed to having initial inspections completed at by April 2014. In December 2013, the Accord have initiated large-scale inspections of these factories. This is why that was an enormous challenge (News, 2018). Moreover, Mr. Wayss also added that safety is a continuous issue; safety needs to be monitored on a continuous basis.

Afterwards, the CBC reporter Susan Ormiston asked one of the factory managers, Mamun Khan, about the demand of buyers. “He said all of his foreign buyers are now demanding protection. He said some buyers are really pressuring us not to send us orders even this security issues. He has also blamed buyer price for not rising last year.” Mr. Mahfooz Anam is editor of The Daily Star said that the “readymade garments industry came as a surprise bored; we grabbed it we try to build on it we ran with it. Besides, our over anxiety to basically make ends meet made our buyer demand. We kept on cutting on cost and cutting on the cost through the process went into a zone which was dangerous for small factory”. (News, 2015). Mr. Anam also added that there is a lot of corruption which leads in failure to comply with the basic laws of the land (News, 2015).

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4. Methodology

For this research, I intend to find several materials on compliance issues in Bangladesh RMG. However, several martials like- newspaper reports, online blogs discussions, organizational reports and publications have been studied. Moreover, availability of interesting scientific literature helps the thesis to provide useful knowledge related to the research questions, which helped to perform the theoretical and methodological approach. Besides, these may help this study to formulate the research questions, conclusively helping me to interpret the research findings. Throughout the topic, there were points and gaps essential but uncovered, though obvious and easily visible. Such discrepancies would include studies not based on social media sentiment in compliance with the introduction of occupational health and safety policies, explicitly in global RMG as worldwide.

According to Mayring (2014), one has to identify an acceptable research question and work through the theoretical background of the topic. The study questions and an outline of the theoretical history to the subject of this master's thesis can be found in the theoretical section of the first chapter. Besides this theoretical study is based on newspaper articles, various news from social organization, national and international social organization web report, social media mews and scientific articles. Moreover, newspaper articles are selected because they provide the chance of a macro-level analysis. Besides that, most political and social processes decisions and social discussions are discussed there. In addition, mass media, such as newspaper articles, are one of the most important instruments to analyse popular views, societies, and organisations, and offer an summary of public debates (Macnamara, 2010). A downside, by comparison, is that in some situations the writers and newspapers themselves may politically influence the information contained in newspaper articles. Nevertheless, newspaper articles are written not to examine specific research topics, but to inform the public about certain events and decisions (Bowen, 2009). In comparison, newspaper articles are still the most common type of mass media for publishing trustworthy news and public opinions, which has discussed before. Therefore, the quality of records in public repositories is another justification to choose posts. Eventually, the theoretical study focuses on relevant articles published in 2013 to 2019. Similarly, relevant articles have been used to get information about the Rana Plaza and the Bangladeshi RMG sector.

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4.1. Method of data collection - interviews

In this thesis, the qualitative research method was used to explore and develop implications to answer research questions. The qualitative research process is shown in Figure 4 (Bryman & Bell, 2007).

Figure 4: Steps of qualitative research Source: (Bryman & Bell, 2007, p 406f)

After reading relevant academic literature, the relevant research questions have been defined. This theoretical study will analyse the general sentiment evoked by posts about Rana Plaza catastrophe created by Bangladeshi newspaper like “The Daily Star” and U.S base newspaper like “The New York Times”. Along with other social media like YouTube and Facebook page, social debate and scientific literature. This study categorizes news posts into Rana Plaza topics to gain insight and an overview of news posts created under these topics.

It is important to analyse the impact on social sentiment to the different cluster of social structure. In this thesis paper theoretical findings part, the impact of the news post (of the Rana Plaza) on compliance with workplace health and safety standards issues are studied. Data set thus includes

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from the Bangladeshi newspaper pages (The Daily Star), U.S (The New York Times) which are daily and weekly newspaper publishers respectively, different social organization report, scientific article and YouTube documentary. The study will focus on social media sentiment about the Rana Plaza building collapse.

The chosen newspaper post from 2013 to 2019 as the unit of analysis, which help for in-depth understanding of management practice and sentiment of this event. Current investigation is focused on social media, specially newspaper article, social organization report, YouTube videos and scientific literature about Rana Plaza collapse. The considered newspaper post is also an ideal secondary data source for the theoretical part. After that a comparative newspaper article post about Rana Plaza from 2013 to 2019 have been followed, based on two newspaper, the “The daily Star” (Bangladesh), and the “The New York Times” (USA). Finally, the empirical findings, Interviews from local RMG and MNCs sourcing office Table 4.

To gain additional insights, It will include documents such as publicly available presentation, debate data about this issue, media material, press releases, document and studies about the Rana Plaza (Joutsenvirta & Vaara, 2015). The study will conduct sentiment of social media compliance with workplace health and safety standard in Bangladeshi RMG industries. Therefore, theoretical data will consist of the media texts of the leading newspapers in the two countries in question during 2013-2019: The Daily Star (Bangladesh), The New York Times (USA). These two newspapers are leading outlets of public discussion in their respective countries, and thus arguably both shape public opinion and reflect commonly held views (Joutsenvirta & Vaara, 2015). It is important to acknowledge the editorial stances of these two news outlets; The Daily Star is the biggest daily newspaper in Bangladesh, also has significant place in Bangladeshi society and politics. There are several reasons selecting newspaper as a social media source. Directly or indirectly, newspaper is source in which accounts rational for position and creating public sentiment during crisis (Patriotta, Gond, & Schultz, 2011).

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News collection News from different newspapers were categorized according to their title and date Table 3.

The Daily Star Time The New York Time

(Bangladesh) Interval times Interval

article article

Number. of of Number. of Number. Rana Plaza 2013-2019 13 Rana Plaza tragedy 7 2013-2014 tragedy Rana Plaza 2014-2019 9 Year after Rana 2 2014-2019 anniversary Plaza Workplace safety 2013-2019 5 Workplace safety 19 2012-2019 issue issue RMG Industry: 2014-2019 2 Inspection report and 3 2013-2014 post Rana Plaza agencies (Accord, Alliance and National Initiative) on Bangladeshi RMG Debate about 2013-2019 6 Pressure on MNCs 22 2013-2016 Rana Plaza Workers’ rights, 2013-2019 2 Initiative of world 9 2013-2018 labour law, Union organization Fund for rana 2014-2015 3 Fund for Rana Plaza 6 2013-2015 Plaza

Table 3: Newspaper coding according title Source: Developed by the author

For this step, some predefined categories have primarily been taken into account, followed by a study and evaluation of newspaper articles, and an analysis of coding. As a first step, the online newspaper archives search feature was used to locate all papers dealing with the tragedy of Rana Plaza. Hence, use was made of the keyword, “Rana Plaza Catastrophe” The findings were then checked for their content and coded in a separate Excel-file with the aid of a table. After analysis of the articles, the categories were described. The search process resulted in a total of 108 articles which can be seen in Table 3.

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This theoretical study will analyse the general sentiment on health and workplace security issues evoked by news coverage about the Rana Plaza catastrophe. This general sentiment produced, reactions are investigated from RMG industries in Bangladesh regarding compliance with workplace health and safety standards. Furthermore, the news sentiment impact concerning Rana Plaza in context to these compliances is studied. After having the analysis, categorizing the news posts and discussing them in detail would have been the next step. Based on the theoretical findings, formulation of interview questions for the empirical study is one of the steps. The next step would therefore be to select relevant sites and subjects. The target organizations for this thesis would be Bangladeshi RMG industries, multinational companies who produce clothes in Bangladesh. As mentioned by Bryman et al (2007) the aim of the qualitative research is to rhetorically, rather than numerically, find an answer to the research question.

Hence, the next step of the empirical part of this thesis is the company’s interviews. Where semi- structured interviews were used for the empirical part. The target group for this qualitative research interview will be executive staffs and heads of compliance (e.g. Head of HR, Admin, Compliance, Executive, supply chain managers, procurement managers) of Bangladeshi RMG industries and MNCs sourcing office. carried out by two local companies and two local sourcing agents of multinational companies (Table 4). The interview took place via WhatsApp and Skype. Those interviews were transcribed and analysed in depth.

Local Company Multinational Company Interstoff Apparels Limited Marks & Spencer (M&S) Interview person 1: Mr. Prodip Kumer Naght Interview person 3: Mizanur Rahman Head of compliance manager Compliance Manager And Rashed Mahmud Assistant Manager (Compliance) M&S Bangladesh Sourcing office Genesis Washing Limited, M&J Group AUCHAN Interview person 2: Mohammad Amir Uddin Interview person 4: Mr Saiful Alam Mallick Executive-I, HR, Admin, Compliance Compliance Manager, South Asia And Auchan Bangladesh Sourcing office Sultan Mohammad saqlian Deputy Manager HR, Admin, Compliance

Table 4: Name of companies and candidates to be interviewed Source: Author own source

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“Face-to-face verbal exchanges in which one person, the interviewer, attempts to acquire information from and gain an understanding of another person, the interviewee. The interviewee may be invited to talk about his or her own attitudes, beliefs, behaviours or experiences, as a citizen, user, consumer or employee. In research in organizational studies, management and business, the interviewee may be selected either as an individual or as a representative of their team, organization, or industry” (Rowley, 2012, p. 260).

A verbal agreement was made at the start of the interviews that permitted the recording of the interviews along with the use of the data collected in the frames of the given master thesis. Then the interviews were recorded over an eight-week period, in this case enabling interviews to be analysed and reflected for organizational development of questions and analysis. When one of the interviewees brought up something interesting, uncommon or unpredictable, it was possible to comment on it in the next interview, thus maintaining a conversational growth and achieving deeper levels of understanding throughout the study.

4.2. Data analysis

Template approach to text analysis

According to Brooks et al (2014, p. 4) that template analysis is a method of thematically organising and analysing qualitative data which has been applied in a broad range of research areas in the social sciences. Additionally, review of the template gives the idea to create a coding framework that is summaries of data set to help researchers define and organize data coding in a meaningful and useful way. Moreover, the template analysis identified the themes or codes in their textual data, which also represents the relationship among different themes. Furthermore, these themes considered as relevant to their research questions (Brooks & King, 2014). Open ended research questions involved in studies using in the form of interview. Finally, the template analysis is more concerned with interviewee talk and demonstrate objectivity and coding reliability.

As described above, for better understanding and easier interpretation, the audio-recorded qualitative data have been transcribed. The data involved in studies using template analysis are usually in the form of interview transcripts (Brooks & King, 2014, p. 4). Based on the codes in textual data and descriptions, the researcher may construct information clusters, thereby creating a trend and a deeper understanding of the information. This way the template analysis represents the relationships between different themes or codes (Brooks & King, 2014, p. 7) and these codes often represent the researcher's analysis and are hierarchically ordered. Wide and higher codes may reflect general terms, whereas smaller codes can nest under wide themes (Brooks & King,

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2014; King, 2004; Waring & Wainwright, 2008). According to Waring et al (2008, p. 86) how template analysis process of organising, connecting and corroborating involves :

Manual code or code scheme Sorting segments to get all similar text in one place Hand or computer coding the text Reading the segments and making the connections that are subsequently corroborated and legitimised.

Table 5: Process of template

Source :(Waring & Wainwright, 2008, p. 86)

On the basis of theoretical considerations or research questions and interview transcribe researchers may establish key themes (codes) in advance and apply them to the text as suggested (Brooks & King, 2014; King, 2004; Waring & Wainwright, 2008). Analysis of templates allows additional codes and themes to be added. If the text requires, it is therefore important to state that different patterns and coding systems can emerge from data analysis. As the final part of the data analysis, the patterns and emerging themes are discussed with the results of the literature review, arguing for similarities and differences, thus creating final proposals as a conclusion. As three majors’ parts have been identified by literature review, these are:

• Workplace health and safety issue after the Rana Plaza tragedy • Impact of social media on workplace health and safety • Compensation

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Final template coding for this research shown in Table 6. Before producing the final report, some considerable work to do beyond coding the data to final template.

Pr. Workplace health Impact of social Compensation main and safety issue media on code after the Rana workplace health Plaza tragedy and safety Poor working condition Monitoring agency Training Demonstration Mismanagement Certification

Monitoring Accord and Alliance Overtime and codes - wages Strength of news Legal requirement

Social responsibilities

Subcontract Preliminary sub Preliminary Social voice

Table 6: Preliminary codes and sub codes

Source: Developed by author own source

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5. Findings

In this chapter, the qualitative data with empirical findings are analysed to develop impact of social media on health and safety issues in RMG industries. The knowledge gathered from the interviews and literature review is provided in the findings section. The background of the persons interviewed is the compliance area and the individual interviews have given a good impression of compliance. Detailed coding and in-depth analysis, including quotations, is also provided in this chapter, accompanied by a final overview.

5.1. Workplace health and safety issue after the Rana Plaza tragedy

Figure 5: Rana Plaza before and after the tragedy

Source: The Daily Star

CONTINUE On the 24 of April 2013, the collapse of Rana Plaza building cost nearly 1,139 workers lives, 2,500 critically injured and others living disabled (Ali & Medhekar, 2016; Begum & Solaiman, 2016; Hepburn, Hepburn, & Richards, 2017). Above all, this “made the collapse the worst textile factory disaster in history in terms of fatalities” (Hepburn et al., 2017, p. 1). According to Begum et al. (2016, p. 778) a total of five Garment industries which manufacture apparel for world famous brands including Wal-Mart, Primark, Joe Fresh, Matalan, Cato Fashions and Bonmarche had factory in Rana Plaza Building. Particularly, Dr. Hameeda Hossain, Convener, Sramik Nirapotta Forum-SNF suspected the main factors to be corruption and performance pressure to meet targets of the global chain which led to the Rana Plaza collapse of the factories (“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018b). Thereupon, the building was permitted as a seven-story building, raising the question why it was built with nine stories (“Rana Plaza disaster, two years on,” 2015a).

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Interviewee “Three” added The New York Times reported this immediately after the collapse of Rana Plaza. Now question arise at which point did media interest begin to increase. During the interview session with Interviewee ‘three’, it was found that ‘’lack of monitoring’’ was the principle cause of the accident. Interviewee 3 reported the following:

“The media specially looked that which building had Rana Plaza was unapproved building, they had approval seven storeyed, but they set up 8 storeyed building. Which part had extended how did they do it? Where was the local authority?”

In addition, Brigadier. General. Ali Ahmed Khan, head of the national fire service, noted that the building violated codes, with the four upper floors built without permits (Manik & Yardley, 2013). Later on, Begum et al. (2016) pointed out day before the incident that fatal cracks had appeared in Rana Plaza building. Meanwhile, an engineer who had been called to inspect the structure warned that it was unsafe and identified structural flaws and misplaced generators in the building (Hepburn et al., 2017; Manik & Yardley, 2013; Yardley, 2013). Then, because of this fact, the Bank and other shops were immediately closed but Rana Plaza remained open. Based on media reports that management ordered to continue the work on the following day with threat of job loss fear and salary cut (Yardley, 2013). Finally, the building was collapsed early in the morning at that time it was rush hours working (Begum & Solaiman, 2016). When a generator switched on, and building was vibrating and collapsed (Yardley, 2013). This building collapse happed after few months later of the Tazreen Factory fire that killed 120 workers (Delaware, 2016; Sinkovics et al., 2016). Overall, it can be said that, because of the factory owner’s mentality this disaster had taken place, although they knew this building was not safe. Interviewee 3 added that in 23 April 2013, a large structural crack was discovered. Additionally, the Rana Plaza was a multi-storeyed building, where bank and supermarket was situated. After discovering the big crack on that building:

“Only the garments owners ignored it and on the upper floor they continued their productions. They said that nothing will be happened.”

Consequently, next day the workers disagreed to go their duties but, the owners made them bound forcefully to do their respective duties, it was the worst decision. In fear of losing their jobs, they are bound to go to their duties. These workers were very poor, so they would starve if they do not earn.

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Interviewee 3 also added the news of collapsing Rana Plaza social media has a great role on Bangladesh:

“In short, all the media of Bangladesh like social media, Television media, print media, online paper and newspaper all are speaking against it. The Guardian newspaper reported that the shark on your back. The Al-Jazeera reported that a picture they count in the horrors of Rana Plaza.”

The researcher asked to the interviewees about media’s points of interest on Rana Plaza Interviewee 2 added as follows:

“News media wrote too much about Rana Plaza all over the world like BBC, Guardian News, CBC, Al-Jazeera, New York Times and the newspaper of Bangladesh The Daily star and Prothom ALO etc. New York times and CBC posted many stories and news article about Rana Plaza incident.’’

Interviewee 4 also added:

“So far, I know print media and NGO’s news more. The main interest point of media was health and safety issues where safety was low standard. As well as broadcast media like Al Jazeera and CNN, continuously broadcasting news about the safety and security.”

Interviewee 1 added:

“Local and international media were much debate about workplace health and safety issues after the Rana Plaza tragedy. Along with them Bangladeshi and international labour unions showed low health and safety standard in Bangladeshi RMG to foreigners.”

According Nathan et al. (2015) Ismail Ferdous, Photojournalist of The New York times he published documentary about on The Rana Plaza collapse: The Deadly Cost of Fashion Op-Docs:

“I remember someone shouting from the rubble that he'd cut my leg off and drag me out. I saw the people, loving to huddle, hugging each other in order to live Figure 6. This image should be the voice of that people who died, nobody knows how they survived their story. Design such clothes for nation of the first world.”

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Figure 6: Tags of brands in Rana Plaza collapse Source: Now York Time YouTube page

The customers demonstrated in front of different brands show rooms and headquarters. A procession was held in front of “Mango” buyers. All brands were highlighted specially like Primark, Wall-Mart and whose level were got inside the destroyed building said interviewee 3.

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Interviewee 1 added

“Different labour union demonstrated the picture of injured worker in front of different clothes brands office. It was something like that, “shall not buy clothes from Bangladesh”; they made the campaign and showed to customers that the factories of Bangladesh are not suitable for work and they are not maintaining workplace safety for workers.”

Indeed, the Rana Plaza disaster catch the global attention about world’s second-leading exporter of clothing on unsafe work conditions also safety security conditions (Yardley, 2013). Interviewee 3 said the followings when asked how did social media impact on general sentiment, after Rana Plaza buildings collapse:

“In the RMG sector working condition are unsafe which was happened at general sentiment. It was not mean that the working condition in whole RMG were unsafe. But a message was sent to all, the social media presented it very roughly that the working conditions of entire RMG industry are bad. They have very poor working condition and due to only low wage these MNCs are making huge business in Bangladesh, and without maintaining any safety standard. It was triggered initially by newspapers and online media, then by television media and foreign media in all ways that Bangladesh's textiles industries and brand reputations are having a negative effect.”

Interviewee 1 added:

“There is a yellow journalism in our country like if they have bad relationship with the factory owner, they publish a negative news in media. Then a negative influence comes over the factory like the workers do not get safety in X factory, does never late, fire safety is not seen and if a little crack on building they say that the construction of building is not right”

For all those reasons, there was demonstration outside the global brand headquarter like Gap, Zara, Wal-Mart and so on. During that time protesters had placard with written stop corporate greed, shame, blood with cloth so on (Greenhouse, 2013e). Afterward, it’s becoming a big challenge for multinational brand and Bangladeshi RMG sector aiming at improving workplace safety in garment factories (Ansary & Barua, 2015). Interviewee 2 compliance manager of local textile industries said that social media create “social voice’’ there was no security for worker:

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“The fashionable products which we are wearing that are coming out through the system where the poor working condition is working. Several RMG industries have no security for the workers. Also, few broadcasting agencies have shown human blood found on different garments products, which has created a social voice; however, the key source of generating social voice is media.”

We can say that it is a ‘’war of social media’’ due to this social media war how does the level or nature of news media coverage affect companies like M&S, GAP, and H&M. Interviewee 4 added:

“Suppose that, there is a product of H&M is found, Swedish media took photos of that product and they posted it all the newspapers. Then the customers of that country were angry on H&M by saying that they could not maintain the worker safety. The buyers of Europe and America are much conscious. They began to buy less product their share market shrined and the sells became less.’’

Brand and companies linked to Rana Plaza factories include Table 7:

Adler Modemärkte El Corte Ingles Matalan Ascena Retail Inditex N Brown group Auchan J.C. Penney NKD Benetton Joe fresh Premier Clothing Bonmarche Kik Primark Camaieu LPP S.A PWT (Texman) Carrefour Mango Walmart Cato Fashions Manifattura Yes Zee

Table 7: Brands linked to Rana Plaza

Also, interviewee 4 added that “subcontract” issue:

“Many products of famous brand were found in the Rana Plaza. They didn't know their products were manufactured in that building, so that was done by an illegal subcontractor. For this subcontract, work is not crime but it is crime if any body works by unauthorized subcontract. Factories those had productions floor in the Rana Plaza building they have unauthorized subcontracting work.”

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Incidents since 2005 (Before Rana Plaza)

April 11, 2005 Spectrum Factory collapse, during that time about 184 workers have started working on the factory's collapse time. Even though one worker noticed “cracks in the factory wall five days before the disaster as well as, workers had tried to report concerns about the safety of their buildings before the collapse of the factory” (Campaign, 2018; Roeland, 2012, p. 23). According to Roeland, (2012, p. 23) commented another incident February 23, 2006 Fire at KTS Textile Industries, Chittagong. Mainly, the KTS textile fire was caused by a short circuit of electricity. After two days on February 25, 2006 another incident called Phoenix Building, Dhaka. The building affected was five stories high and was placed in the Tejgoan industrial area, around 22 dead, 50 injured workers.

Interviewee 1 expresses similarly, that industrial accident before the Rana Plaza collapse.

“There were some incidents before Rana Plaza, as for example, Tazreen Fashions where 117 workers died. At Rana Plaza, about 1200 people died about 2000 people injured. Before that, there were some incidents as for example smart fire incident there died 9 people. There was another incident in 2013 at Aswad Garment there died 10 people by the fire incident.”

Not only the above incident, but also some other incidents has not appear in media. RMG even MNC was not careful. It was hushed by paying some compensation, which was not come in focus in point. Not from buyers or factory and even the government did not take care. Figure 7 provides a summary of several incidents before the Rana Plaza-

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Name of the buyer produce Name of the Reason products factory

Inditex (Spain), CMT Windfield, Carrefour (France), Cotton Group (Belgium), 2005 Spectrum Building Karstadt Quelle, New Yorker, Factory collapsed (Germany), Scapino collapse (Netherlands), and New Wave Group (Sweden)

March 6, 2006 Ada Gatti, Bershka, (Spain), Electrical Sayem Wet (Australia), X-Mail (Italy), short circuit Fashions, Persival (UK)(not confirmed) Gazipur

H&M (Swedish), Otto, Ulla Popken, (Germany), Teddy (USA) (brand Terranova), El February 25, Electrical Corte Ingles (Spain), Taha 2010 Garib and short circuit Group (Turkish) (brand LC Garib Waikiki), Provera (Italian) and Mark's Work Wearhouse (Canada).

Gap, PVH Corp., VF December 14, Corporation, Target, JC 2010 That's It Penney, Carter's (Oshkosh), Electrical Sportswear Abercrombie and Fitch and short circuit (Hameem Kohl's (USA). Group)

Figure 7: Incidents since 2005 (Before Rana Plaza) Source: (Campaign, 2018; Roeland, 2012)

After the accident, Bangladesh's government has brought together the garment industry, trade unions and the international community to strengthen workplace health conditions to ensure that workers are aware of their rights (Nations, 2015). Subsequently, along with the supports from ILO teams of structural engineers, safety experts, the are-inspecting factory across the country and other changes are underway. BGMEA's vice president of finance Mohammed Nasir, Complimented RMG for factory inspection under accord, Alliance and National Plan of Action. In addition, when the incident at Rana Plaza happened then, nations across the globe were telling consumers not to purchase clothes made in Bangladesh. The buyers have restored their

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confidence because of many initiatives (“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018a). According to the ILO Country Office in Dhaka, Officer in charge Gagan Rajbhandari, Bangladeshi government had now strong monitoring capacity, more budget and stuff for compliance. Furthermore, a culture of workplace health and safety was slowly being built, and garment factories getting safer. The next step would be to educate, train and facilitate the factory workers on how to prevent industrial accidents.

Later, Mikail Shipar, Former Secretary in the Ministry of Labour and Employment has argued against the existing labour act and workplace safety issues. He said that safety at work is still poor compared to the worldwide norm. If Accord and Alliance leave Bangladesh, there is a true fear of safety surveillance (“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018a).

Lack of monitoring

As reported different media, that local authority had lacking and whose brands where they had to need monitoring, but they overlooked it. Staggeringly, it is a matter of great sorrow that a team of the government came to inspection the building few days before the Rana Plaza collapse. During that time, they declared it as a deserted building said interviewee 3

“They had to monitor it that the factory is running or not after the owner of that factory told that nothing will be happened. I shall say that the government should play role as a guardian. It needed to proactive block which was not monitored properly.”

In this point, Interviewee 2 was found to accuse that it seems to me that the “media felt the thing, the incident that had happened before, big or small, people were watching it through the media.” As people knew the incident of Tazreen Fashions, where people were burned. People have also seen the incident of Rana Plaza in the media. After the incident with Tazreen 's Fashions, people think that something has changed, but in the end, 4-5 months after another incident has occurred.

“Media shows too much interest from this point that ultimately there seen no change. Now if the incident of Rana Plaza is not focus well then, a danger may come in future.’’

Whereas, Bangladeshi RMG produces maximum products for European and American buyers. Therefore, international media think that Bangladesh textiles' working condition has to take action for human factors, otherwise catastrophic event will continue. Interviewee 3 added monitoring responsibility of local authority called Rajdhani Unnayan Kartripakkha (RAJUK), a Bangladeshi public agency they are the responsible for the Capital Development. Interviewee 3 pointed that

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media report about the Rana Plaza building there was no approval of RAJUK. As a result, about one thousand two hundred people were died as well as 2500 people were injured. Many people were in lifetime paralysed. For this reason, the brands could not avoid these liabilities.

If anything comes to media, it is considered as a pressure for the government side or the owners or from the buyer’s side. All have responsibility, for example after the incident of Rana Plaza pressure came on government, media blamed to local authority called Bangladesh National Building Code (BNBC) because they had little monitoring (Sazid, Hosen, Nizam, Bin, & Islam, 2019).

Interviewee 2 added

“A factory may establish according to the guideline of Bangladesh National Building Code (BNCC), and then everybody has to maintain the workplace health and safety that means they have fire licence building approval and so on. The pressure of media was upon the government that they had no monitoring. There was no tracking system that means there was no monitoring from input to output, responsibility or responsible department there was mismanagement.”

There was media pressure upon responsible authority that how they gave approval for example Rana Plaza which was a market how a factory can run here. Where were the RAJUK, did they have weakness. Later, the government made an instruction about factory building after the collapse of Rana Plaza. According to this government banned 30 factories on the issue of health and safety after the Rana Plaza. These were banned on the issue of structure said interviewee 1.

Interviewee 1 further added:

“Which place they (garments brands) have an outlet, they were in pressure in that place from the customers. They protested by standing in front of different corporate office by creating a human chain, raising posters/signs and criticizing different brand office. Because MNC is producing goods from Bangladesh they are not aware of the work environment and health and safety issues.”

Interviewee 3 added:

“Media openly said that government had little monitoring as well as they blamed to BGMEA. and international brands that they are giving the purchase orders to Bangladeshi RMG only get the benefit in low wage without monitoring any safety standard.”

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For this reason, the government felt pressure internationally why they did not monitor safety standard. The government could not ensure it. Due to impact of social media the attention of the whole world towards Bangladesh. As well as, public interest and political pressure happened due to media attention.

Interviewee 4 added

“When media made telecast about these matters then we understand that they are added to different communities like European Union, ILO, and other unions.”

Interviewee 1 reflected on the media pressure as follows:

“Pressure from multiple actors such as government, customer, labour union. Especially media gave much pressure to the factory’s owners for regular factory inspection. For example, there is any problem in the building, fire equipment is right or not, emergency exit pressure is ok or not. There was pressure from 2014 to 2017. In this regard, Bangladeshi TK 1000000000 thousand (118013200 USD) invested in the fire sector.”

Media blame that factory-monitoring agents have lack of standard monitoring system. Therefore, Government needs to strengthen those organizations. Interviewee 2 and 3 added:

“Due to media pressure Accord and Alliance came. If there was strong monitoring from government then accord would not form.”

Interviewee 3 added:

“In that time there was much pressure, all became anxious all were frightened that where I am working is it safe or not.”

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Poor working Basic rights Monitoring Strength of condition news Arrangement of Low wage Role of government News headlines generator and boiler Unapproved Social voice Lack of monitoring Negative news buildings Subcontract responsibilities Maintaining Live telecast standard Approval of Awareness Ignorance of Yellow journalism RAJUK authority Building structure Arrangement of mismanagement Continuity of news generator and boiler War of social media

Table 8: General sentiment in social media impact on workplace health and safety standard

Source: Developed by the author

5.2. Impact of social media on workplace health and safety

General sentiment in social media impact, interviewed employees from local textile and MNC sourcing office in Dhaka. Moreover, employees were asked how did the general sentiment in social media impact workplace health and safety standard after Rana Plaza. Basically, the government wanted that international body should monitor all issues of Bangladesh. At that time, on the one hand, there was an anxiousness that the government would not approve the Accord and Alliance. On the other hand, there was another threat and possibility to withdraw the orders of products from Bangladesh. Indeed, social media created pressure on the government and textile companies to approved Accord and Alliance.

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Accord, Alliance and other social organizations

The ACCORD The Accord is an independent, legally binding agreement between more than 200 apparel brands from Asia, Australia and North America (Galib, Khan, Kabir, & Abdullah, 2019). Coupled with, trade unions IndustriALL and UNI Global union (two global and 14 Bangladeshi) in addition, more than 2000 factories are listed (Accord, 2013; M. R. Islam & Wichterich, 2015; Right, 2018), “to work towards a safe and healthy garment and textile industry in Bangladesh” (Accord, 2013). International NGOs and civil society campaigns based on labour and consumer solidarity, “such as Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC), International Labour Rights Forum (ILRF),WRC and Maquila Solidarity Network (MSN) are witnesses to the agreement” (Accord, 2018b; M. R. Islam & Wichterich, 2015). After Rana Plaza collapse the ACCORD was established for ensuring safety working environment which means no worker needs not to fear fires, building collapses, and other industrial accidents (Accord, 2013). Since 2013, the Accord providing several safety complaints mechanism and workplace safety programs for informing workers protects their right (Accord, 2018a). According to Accord, (2018b) that the Accord protects workers’ right to:

• Deny unsafe work condition • Involving in work safety committee • If worker see a safety problem in their factory then inform compliant manager • Freedom of choice to involve with association

According to IndustriALL, (2017) about 80 per cent of the occupational hazards identified in the Accord. Additionally, IndustriALL Secretary General Valter Sanches said that the Accord is currently the only reliable alternative for health and safety in clothing factories in Bangladesh.

The Alliance

The Alliance formed in July 2013 with 29 firms from all over north America to be active for a five- year period (Right, 2018). Alliance includes biggest American apparel brand furthermore a “five year legally binding agreement between brands and trade unions to ensure a safe working environment in the Bangladeshi RMG industry” (Hepburn et al., 2017, p. 10). Accordingly, the Alliance has established collaboration between the apparel industry and stakeholders, including: Bangladesh and U.S. governments, policy makers, NGOs, civil society and labour organizations (Alliance, 2018). Whereas, most of the members of the Alliance are North American RMG importers from Bangladesh (M. R. Islam & Wichterich, 2015). Therefore, the Alliance maintains

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accountability and ensures that each of its factory employees operates workplaces that are secure for building and fire safety (Alliance, 2018). The Alliance standard has been harmonized with the criteria of the manufacturing assessment guidelines established by the Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology (BUET) especially, for the Bangladesh and National Tripartite Action Plan (NTPA) (Alliance, 2018; M. R. Islam & Wichterich, 2015). The ILO plays a crucial role in setting this standard (Alliance, 2014). Alliance, (2014, p. 6) has implemented a general requirement for building and structure based on:

“Use and occupancy to include buildings or parts used where materials are manufactured, assembled or processed. Storage buildings shall be the structure and portions used for the storage of materials, products and/or equipment. All buildings shall be equipped with automatic sprinkler system, fire detection and alarm system, exit sign, smoke control system, elevator or lift and emergency power.”

It is already been discussed that Accord is a European brand organization and Alliance is an American brand organization. Interviewee 4 said generally, the only duty of these organizations are building fire and electrical safety certificate deliver to factory. If it based on international standard or local standard. It will be checked up to satisfaction. Furthermore, after the Rana Plaza collapse, social media raised the point, why accord was not in to the matter before.

Interviewee 3 added

“Social media and international media presented it in this way, the government was failed to ensure the security and the brands lost their trust to government. At that time the government had no skilled manpower and no international experts who could audit factory standard. Though we had a national buildings code, we have no expert person who could monitor it.”

However, in any reason the monitoring or auditing was done by Accord or Alliance. It supposed to be according to authorised guideline.

The National Tripartite Plan of Action (NTPA)

The NTPA was established before the collapse of Rana Plaza on November 24, 2012 when at Tazreen Fashions incident happened (M. R. Islam & Wichterich, 2015; MoLE, 2013). As a result, 112 workers lost their lives, and many were injured due to fire.(MoLE, 2013). On January 15, 2013 a meeting took place between the tripartite partners and the Ministry of Labour and Employment

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(MoLE) for this reason, committed to working together to create a national act plan on fire safety (MoLE, 2013).

“The NTPA mission has engaged with tripartite partners and other stakeholders to identify what needs to be done to prevent such future tragedies (MoLE, 2013, p. 2).”

Moreover, NTPA's primary goal is to promote fire safety and structural integrity of the RMG. As well as, three-level process of activity consists of legislation and policy, administration and political activities. Furthermore, NTPA includes the following improvements across the textile sectors (Labowitz & Baumann-Pauly, 2014):

• National occupational health and safety policy • Review and update of fire safety regulations and establishment of a fire safety task force • Recruitment and added factory inspectors • Reviewing of the factory licensing and certification procedures • Assessment of factory-level fire safety needs improvement and training programs

Above all, these are the program which previously the responsible of several government authorities (M. R. Islam & Wichterich, 2015). After all, the NTPA recommends this authority for creating administrative certification also propose them developed a fire safety checklist, which is used by the government (Labowitz & Baumann-Pauly, 2014).

Initiative from different organisation

An IndustriALL global union is a representative of 50 million workers in 140 countries of different mining, energy and manufacturing sectors (Union, 2019). Usually, this organization took initiative for improving working conditions and trade union rights around the world (Union, 2019). The government, trade unions and textile industries agreed to develop, promote and transparent mechanisms in Bangladesh to ensure fire safety after the fire incident at Tazreen Fashions (Galib et al., 2019). IndistriALL appreciates this initiative and is committed to promoting the improvement of standards of worker health and safety. Correspondingly, Monika Kemperle, Assistant General Secretary of IndustriALL insisted that worker safety in the textile industry must be ensured by the government and delivered by employers with unions (IndustriALL, 2013b). Eventually, after the collapse of Rana Plaza approximately 5000 workers protested in Dhaka for this reason, demanding safe working conditions in RMG. In addition, IndustriALL Bangladesh Council (IBC) Secretary-General Roy Ramesh attending the Dhaka protest. Furthermore, IBC Bangladesh requiring amendments to labour law. Moreover, employers must guarantee good working conditions for employees also collective bargaining and association liberty. Equally, IndustriALL

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Global Union General Secretary Jyrki Raina fully supports the ICB and its demands for justice (IndustriALL, 2013a).

Additionally, CCC is a global alliance dedicated to improving working conditions and empowering workers in the global RMG industries (Campaign, 2018). According to Campaign, (2018), the garment industry in Bangladesh is so unsafe because the building that was built for other purposes, often without the authority’s permits. Furthermore, building owners add additional floors, increase workers and equipment beyond the building's capability (Roeland, 2012). Due to industrial accidents, the government of Bangladesh took measures including the development of a program to improve safety at work in the garment industry. The government also worked with Bangladeshi trade union, international labour law NGOs, textiles and federation of workers to improve the condition of the factory (Roeland, 2012).

The International Labour Rights Forum (ILRF) agreed to support workers and their families (Forum, 2019). Besides, this organisation works with the trade union to improve material security, construction, ventilation, fire protection, and private security in the garment sector (ILRF, 2019).

Thereupon, ILO is setting labour standards, programs and policies to encourage decent work for all men and women (ILO, 2019). The organization operates with the Bangladeshi apparel owner, government and trade union to guarantee the safety of all staff in the clothing industry and to prevent the tragedy like Tazreen and Rana Plaza (ILO, 2013). In addition, Mr Srinivas Reddy, ILO country director said, we are going to continue to encourage and support improving safety and working conditions in the clothing industry (Galib et al., 2019; M. R. Islam & Wichterich, 2015). Further, On October 22, 2013, the ILO launched the health and safety working condition program at RMG, which is also supported by other nations (ILO, 2013). While the initiative outlined how accidents like building collapse and fire can be prevented including a program for occupational health and safety. Soon, the ILO's International Training Centre (ITC) provides the occupational safety and health (OSH) package course and application of technical know-how (ILO, 2015). At the same time, course materials and other elements translate into Bengali, which is easy to understand. Furthermore, this Bengali language publication and modules help safety committees operates more effectively. Finally, this ILO “Improving Working Condition in the RMG Sector” is funded by Canada, Kingdom of the Netherlands and the United Kingdom. Which is amounting USD 24.21 million (ILO, 2014).

In the same way, the WRC is an independent labour rights monitoring organization who investigate working conditions in factories around the globe (WRC, 2019). Finally, the WRC also play a critical role in implementing and enforcing the ACCORD.

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Fire and building safety

The Wal-Mart and others European companies Carrefour, Benetton, Marks & Spencer, El Corte Inglés, H&M, and Inditex (the parent of Zara) signed the agreement on improving fire and building safety in Bangladeshi RMG industries. Furthermore, the safety program included funding to assist in fire safety upgrades. Due to safety issue, Wal-Mart, Kohls, Gap, the Children’s Place, J. C. Penney and several other top American retailers also pressure applied from U.S. Senate. Later, USA joined the International plan for safety standard in Bangladeshi RMG industries. Next, the Senators wrote their letter, where Bangladeshi RMG the transparent and enforceable standards for work safety and their rights. Then, senators also wrote to the Prime Minister of Bangladesh, Sheikh Hasina, to ensure the worker safety in all the factory (Greenhouse, 2013d).

Three years later, however, some human rights groups consoled that worker safety plan is still not satisfactory in Bangladesh's RMG sectors. Global apparel brands are still benefiting from Bangladesh's inexpensive labour rate.

Interviewee 3 added:

“In 2015 Bangladesh labour rules was published, there published a chapter about fire safety. A remarkable change was forwarded about fire safety. So many requirements were added though it is not under accord standard. They worked enough about fire safety and electrical safety.”

Furthermore, brands have pushed themselves to increase monitoring of major structural and fire repairs in Bangladeshi RMG (Abrams, 2016). Meanwhile, two coalitions of retailers were formed after the crash of Rana Plaza. On the one hand, Accord on Fire and Building Safety, dominated by European brands. On the other hand, Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, led by the American brands Gap and Wal-Mart (Galib et al., 2019). Likewise, accord has been led by the Swedish retailer H&M. Ultimately, both coalitions said that progress has been slow due to the lack of qualified staff and political unrest (Abrams, 2016).

After the Rana Plaza incident in Bangladesh, over 2,700 factories have been inspected for fire, building and electrical safety (Galib et al., 2019). Later on, investigations found that 32 factories with dangerous conditions have been closed (Bernicat, 2015). Several initiatives have been taken by Bangladeshi government (Ansary & Barua, 2015). Simultaneously, the Ministry for labour and employment has hired over 100 inspectors for safety training.

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Additionally, interviewee 2 said that Accord and Alliance have done hundreds of findings like, fire safety, fire exit and fire door imposed hard conditions. As a result, factories expend taka 10 million and safety issues was bound to investment to meet this account. Such as the workers were not conscious about safety issues before the Rana Plaza, now their consciousness have been uplifted. There is a fire, rescue, firefighter and first aid team, which may be 18 people among 100 workers. There are three parts, firstly, six members in the rescue team, secondly, six fire blowouts, and finally, six first aid teams. This team is selected from the workers they should be shown at the time of the audit. They remain at production with identifiable gear. The national defence of our country trains them in a fire drill, which is done in every month unannounced; workers are trained up on fire drill every month. These came frequently after the incident of Rana Plaza. Later, the owners are fulfilling the requirements of Accord and Alliance. Due to lack requirement, 1200 factories were closed. Accord fail means structure load capacity is not right of the factory buildings. It cannot meet up the fire safety and others. Accord and Alliance meet up means that the factory is good.

Interviewee 1 added:

“Yes, if any buyer places an order to any factory, they ask the factory that do they have Accord or Alliance certificate. They do not pass the order to any factory without Accord or Alliance certificate. It is needed to enlist and should have standard according to Accord or Alliance. The factory need mention in their report what percent they are following or not.”

Interviewee 4 added:

“If the factory does not improve working condition in certain time period then the factories will be at dissatisfied list. It means that the factory cannot export product to particular buyers for the next 3 years, they are bound to improve factory standard for next order.”

Then, Interviewee 2 said another long-time reaction, which will maintain Accord and Alliance requirement, which is a strong reaction on the fire sprinkler system. For fire safety, fire sprinkler system cost BDT 60 million which many factories did not have this amount. This auto fire sprinkler will ring the automatic alarm. Accord’s requirement is to water hose sprinkler. Before Rana Plaza collapse, it was maximum 5 per cent factory. Nevertheless, after Rana Plaza, there shall be a system which will pass by Accord and Alliance. Most of the garment’s factory was built before the Alliance and Accord come. In that, time the factory of Bangladesh was not built with safety in mind. However, now it is building after the consideration of Alliance and Accord. This leads to the following question: can social audits help improve factory conditions. The importance of audit in factory reflects in the words of interviewee 3:

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“The brands were not in platform before they had no decorum in ethical RMG products sourcing. At first, there was only a social audit and it was enough to pass it. Before it did not seen deeply in building standard, fire standard in social audit.”

Hence, after Rana Plaza incident investigations began on those issues. For this reason, the companies brought a change in the code of conduct. Subsequently, different recognized third party carries out an audit, do safety assessment like building safety, fire safety and load capacity of the building. The brands become more aware if they met the safety standard. A factory building will be green building to pass safety standard if it removes the electrical hazard. An achievable score should have for fair safety a marking by the accord, like red, green, yellow. There was a bond between them that if any building is not suitable for them, they marked it red. Otherwise, the brand took away their activities from those factories. Another point led to working hour of workers in workplace. The interviewees were asked to share opinions about working hours, which is another important point for factory audit. Interviewee 4 expressed the followings:

“How many hours will workers work every day, how many hours will they work as overtime? From our local law, one can work 8 hours and overtime 2 hours. The facility of overtime is that workers are getting more payment. On the other hand, disadvantages are they will have less holiday per week. If not, their mental health condition and physical health condition could be run down.”

Interviewee 2 added:

“As any worker is continuously working in front of the machine by standing or sitting or in the dying area their working hour. Some factories are working 16/17 hours and some factories are working 10 hours. If any worker works 12-13 hours instead of 8 hours, he must suffer from back pain, headache and mental pressure.”

Interviewee 1 added:

“We can imagine, many chemicals are being used for dying. As a result, worker have many problems wound in hands, would in legs or legs may be rotten. Also, those who work near machine, too much sound causes hearing problem. In this situation, every zone is mandatory by Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and it comes from occupational health and safety.”

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Now the buyers are conscious on occupational health and safety issues and the textile industry should have policy on occupational health and safety. Ultimately, by the pressure of media, the buyers put pressure on the factory.

Interviewee 3 added:

“BBC News reported that Bangladeshi factories have an excessive working hour. it seems that the working hour in Bangladesh is high. It is not regular in payment. They pay a poor salary to the workers. Until now in many factories’ violence, harassment, abuse and so on are seen. I would say that these are not false in some places, but the overall situation is not the same. There is same positive news that the owners of Bangladesh are working health and safety.”

Figure 8: After Rana Plaza few changes in RMG Source: Developed by author

Figure 8 shows after the Rana Plaza collapse RMG took several initiatives to improve workplace health and safety. Worker now they have training facility in the factory. Major components of training are health and safety training. Including this there are a fire team, rescue team, firefighter and first aid team training. Which may be 18 people among 100 workers. Seeing that there is fire training in every month workers training is given on evacuation. Fire training is held in 1 or 2

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months or training is held on fire service in the training factory. A fire drill is done 1-2 time in every month. Interviewee 3 expressed:

“Workers are being trained on evacuation. For example, how many exits are there and in which side workers will come out. Which exits is more safety, etc.”

Interviewee 1 added:

“Yes, the issue of fire drill it is important to the owners, but before the Rana Plaza, the owners had no headache. Because of one-hour production of the factories less for the fire drill. But it has become important after the collapse of Rana Plaza to the government and the owners. The government wants to have fire drill, for this, a record will be submitted.”

Interviewee 4 added:

“According to local law fire drill training held in a month or quarterly in a year. During the training, the instructor provides instructions to the workers that they could properly follow the exit process in the event of an accident. The total system is done by Bangladesh fire service and civil defence. It is done in the presence of them and factory representative supposed to be present. In every brand, there is a compliance department as well as audit and control it on a regular basis.”

Particularly, internal checking should make in every month for the fire equipment. In fact, government check it after three or six months or a year. Due to media pressure there is regular audit in the factory, where third party make an audit on building safety and fire safety. Usually, there are three types of audits: first, announced audits, second, unannounced audits, and finally, maybe semi-announced audits.

Interviewees were asked about building safety after Rana Plaza. All are responded that the factory workers are mostly concerned and aware about safety issues ever than before. They are highly to be concerned about damp walls, cracks in the wall, generator, boiler, electrical wiring, safeguarding of dangerous equipment and locked exits.

Interview 2 added:

“If worker observed any kind of crack in the wall as soon as possible they reported to the management.”

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Interviewee 1 added:

“Worker reporting to the authority about the defect of wall or crack in the building. If management does not take necessary steps to ensure the safety of that building, they boycott their work.”

Interviewee 4 added:

“Workers are more concerns about dangerous part machine and safeguards during the work.”

Interviewee 3 added:

“Women worker are more concern ever before. When it comes to structural safety concerns man and women workers responses equally.”

Above all, all the interviewees are agreed that after the Rana Plaza disaster, awareness is raised. Eventually, interviewees were asked whether they are satisfied with the initiative taken by RMG factories in Bangladesh after the Rana Plaza catastrophe. In addition, they replied that since Tazreen Fashions and Rana Plaza collapse, RMG have taken huge initiative to fire, building, and structural safety at workplace as well as compliance requirements. Regarding building safety interviewees said after the Rana Plaza collapse, the factory owner installed a generator to floor to the ground floor. Also, if any cracks are discovered on wall or floor of the factory, authority can decide to close the factory. However, it is instructed to all workers that if any natural disaster happens, like an earthquake, workers should leave factory area as soon as possible. For avoid such a massive incident in future, factories-maintained equipment and designed a safe area.

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According to Roeland, (2012, p. 6) United Nations has given the following guideline recommendations for brands and retailers:

RMG fire and building safety rules and Independent health and safety regulations committees Independent and open building and health Ensure that workers have inspections of all vendors in the RMG industry power to information about health and safety hazards Factory renovations and investments in Rights of association and worker safety collective bargaining Ensure that workers are trained on their rights in collaboration with trade unions

Table 9: Recommendation for brands and retailers

Source: (Roeland, 2012, p. 6)

On the other hand, factory owners themselves must be held accountable for their incompetence in maintaining appropriate health standards in the workplaces they own and operate (Ansary & Barua, 2015; Ferdous, 2015; Khan & Wichterich, 2015). “Owners have to ensure that employee and family members are compensated once an incident occurs and must take responsibility for ensuring his employees' safety by taking appropriate steps to address these issues” (Roeland, 2012, p. 7).

Recommendations for factory owners (Roeland, 2012, p. 8):

Legal requirements must meet Managers, supervisors and workers should be properly trained for fire and safety procedures Electrical equipment should be properly For the number of workers working in maintained when new buildings are build the factory, escape routes must be including any extension to factory. sufficient and must remain unblocked at all times. When employees are in the factory, factory gates should be kept unlocked. Independent inspectors ensure and review Install a Health and Safety committee all safety issues at workplaces in accordance with Bangladeshi law

Table 10: Recommendations for factory owners

Source : (Roeland, 2012, p. 8)

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Now, all the factories are agreed upon national building code and international standard and other improvements, which is taken place, are displayed in the following Table 11. Nevertheless, because of whom those improvements have taken place; although, the victims are not receiving sufficient compensation to pay their living standard. Initially, there were various initiatives to support the victims and their families. Afterwards, these measures have gradually lost momentum due to the lack of coordination and compensation guarantee. However, the victims were promised sufficient financial support to cover their monthly expenditure and medical expenses. Also, this amount varied from person to person(“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018a).

Monitoring agency Workplace safety Fire and Building safety Accord Fire safety Fire exit and evacuation Alliance Building safety Fire door The National Tripartite Plan Electrical safety Rescue team of Action Occupational safety Structural safety Load capacity IndustriALL machine Fire sprinkler system ILRF Dying area Fire drill ILO PPE cracks in the wall WRC generator, boiler BGMEA electrical wearing

Table 11: Responsible authority and outcome Source: Developed by the author

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5.3. Compensation

Due to the lack of a comprehensive rehabilitation scheme and proper monitoring, victims and their families in suffering poverty (“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018a). In this situation, advocacy groups have taken part in the concreate steps championed to help victims; a few corporations have joined them. The media also recognizes that MNC has the responsibility for the garment worker because workers also work for them. The interviewees were asked to share their opinions about does management pay compensation for injuries or occupational diseases related to work.

Interviewee 1 added:

“There is a good policy about the issue of labour law compensation. It is defined that if someone dies, government will pay two hundred thousand takas (local currency) to this family.”

Then researcher asked interviewee 1, is it equal two hundred thousand taka for all or Is it given accordingly to rank or salary? He said it is same for all, if his/her salary is taka two hundred thousand or taka two thousand. He will be paid taka two hundred thousand. This amount paid from the owner’s deposit .003% from every letter of credit. It deposits against export documents. If any factory is a member of the BGMEA, the workers of this factory will automatically enter into the biometric database system and will be funded from BGMEA automatically. Interviewee 2 shares with this assertion too.

In addition, this fund also paid compensation after Rana Plaza, where the branded side was also involved. There were 30 million in compensation. The companies were bounded to pay compensation due to media pressure, with one billion signatures in media awareness page was made by “Avazz” Foundation. In this case, championed for example compensation funds, adequate healthcare and wages (Times, 2014). Furthermore, Walmart denied to made U.S. USD 17 billion compensation of Rana plaza victims as well as, Walmart denies being an “authorized” supplier to Rana Plaza (Times, 2014). At the same time, Walmart got pressure in abroad, and at home, with labour unrest which in Chicago’s a few protesters picketed outside of Walmart Express. Due to international pressure and its initial denials of responsibility, Walmart has been forced to publicly address the conditions in Bangladesh.

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However, the Italian fashion giant Benetton agreed to pay one million Euro to Rana Plaza victims due to the pressure of media awareness page “Avazz”, which has been done through one million signatures as an “Avaaz” petition. This Avaaz petition campaign efforts by the CCC and the International Labour Right Forum (ILRF, 2015).

Interviewee 3 added Similarly, “Jago” is another social organization like Avazz foundation. Besides both are doing the program every anniversary in the Rana plaza science 2013 to till now. Thus, they got together at Rana Plaza at saver in anniversary. Moreover, they looked up at the victims who were alive, where they are. In addition, different social media did news cover, arranged talk show on television or a recall meeting. They appealed for help for treatment who were paralysed and demand punishment of the owner of Rana Plaza. News reporters visit different workers house and interviewing them. Their interview shows how they are passing their days, many of them did not get compensation until now.

According to Yardley, (2014) five worldwide apparel brands and distributors, including the brands Inditex, Zara, Loblaw, Mango and Mascot, were the first contributors to raise 40 USD for Rana Plaza victims. In addition, activists campaigned to pressure other brands for initiating donations. Moreover, these campaigns diverted the global attention towards unsafe working conditions and lack of accountability in some Bangladeshi factories. Subsequently, Den Rees a representative of the ILO said injured survivors and families of dead victims due to the factory collapse would get their lost wages additionally, medical bills paid including other compensation (Yardley, 2014).

Interviewee 1 added:

“On the issue of Rana Plaza, Primark compensated 50 million takas (local currency), Wal- Mart also compensates.”

Finally, interviewees acknowledged that the Rana Plaza victims what they received as compensation that was not sufficient to pay their medical bills or accommodation. Their medical cost increasing every day. In some cases, factories have lack of processing schemes and polices for injured worker. Due to the social media and other social organizations pressure this can be seen, compensation policy is better than before.

He also said the purpose of this is that we have a procedure that the whole sector can support. Meanwhile, the Spanish brand Mango immediately denied that they would not pay compensation. Wherefore the company executive argued that therefore, Mango had placed only a sample order with a factory inside Rana Plaza. Even though the work on the order had not started.

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On the second anniversary of Rana Plaza, the U.S. Ambassador of Bangladesh Bernicat showed her support to the Bangladesh government, workers, employees and textile owners. Furthermore, she affirmed working alongside with global brands and international partners of Bangladesh to improve worker safety in textiles industry. Moreover, she insisted together we are building a stronger and more productive RMG industry and showing the achievement of workers' rights and safety globally (Bernicat, 2015). Also, the ambassador mentioned an earlier example in history that demonstrates consequences of poor worker conditions. The Triangle shirt factory fire on March 25, 1911 in the United States claimed 146 workers. Above all, its victims included many young women who had come to the factory to earn a salary for the first time, which is nearly analogous to the tragedy at Rana Plaza. Because the owner had locked the doors to the stairwells and exits, many of the workers were not able to escape the burning building. Lastly, Bernicat reminds that this tragedy led to enormous changes in the United States overall, included legislation, factory standards and garment workers’ union.

Following the fourth anniversary of the Rana Plaza during the press conference, The Daily Star talked to three experts in the three different areas about the progress Bangladesh had made (Mahtab & Sajen, 2017). Namely, Dr. Khondaker Golam Moazzem, research director of the Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) said CPD had accomplished few significant achievements, including instant problems such as assistance, tanning, compensation and therapy. However, a few difficulties remained: short-term and medium-term impacts, compensation would be paid based on the extent of the injury. On the other hand, the donation was not enough. Another big gap was the treatment of injured workers as well as lack of psychosocial therapy. Though some deficiencies were still present in 2015, a compensation reassessment was done. However, some legal issues, reforms and immediate amendment of labour law inhibited the progress. In 2017, workers with lacklustre (Mahtab & Sajen, 2017). If we consider the labour law and minimum wage compared with the ones four years ago, then we can see a significant change in the RMG industry. Indeed, a law was amended after the Rana Plaza incident to make the process easier (Mahtab & Sajen, 2017).

There was some evidence to suggest that experience, achievement and way forward would be possible since the fifth anniversary of the Rana Plaza collapse (“Australian clothing brands won’t commit to garment workers’ safety,” 2018; “Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018a). Therefore, a debate was organised to discuss current issues of the RMG industry as well as, workers' rights and livelihood considering Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) (“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018a). Besides this discuss on “factory safety, compensation, rehabilitation, medical treatment, and arbitration of industrial disputes” (“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018a; “Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018b). In addition, the debate was arranged with different stakeholders, seeking this roundtable discussion “to address issues related to prevention of

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factory accidents, industries infrastructure, medical treatment and rehabilitation of injured workers” (“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018b). While workers usually suffer from diseases (as tuberculosis, silicosis, etc.), most female workers cannot afford proper sanitary facilities during menstruation. Furthermore, factory washrooms have been reported as unhygienic (Mahtab & Sajen, 2017).

Shirin Akhter MP, Vice President, Bangladesh Institute of Labour Studies (BILS) pointed out in turn to five years of Rana Plaza's anniversary eventually, “we are going to discuss where we went wrong” (“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018b), why this occurred, and how to stop something like this. She acknowledged the inadequacy of the compensation policy and treatment process. Moreover, she claims that improvements in occupational health and safety have been taken into consideration in factories. At the same time, Mr. Nazrul Islam Khan, Secretary-General of BILS, stated that compensation strategies or projects have not yet been sufficient. Even if, after employees have died in the factory, implying the lessons of Rana Plaza were temporary (“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018b). Also, Brigadier General Shahedul Anam Khan, associate editor of The Daily Star, said the “media can play a vital role in bringing many of these problems”. As a media person, I should say, “we have to be constructive and not reactive” (“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018b).

6. Discussion

From the above-mentioned facts and figures, it became clear that social media was able to make the impact on workplace health and safety standard in Bangladesh RMG industries. The respondents found that before the Rana Plaza collapse working condition in RMG were unsafe. Hence, social media only presented the downside of the RMG industries working conditions to the world rather presenting the good side or achievements of the RMG sectors. Moreover, social media has shown that basic rights of workers were not fulfilled in some RMG industries. Another reason, the local authority had a lack of monitoring. They need to proactive block, which was not monitored properly. Above all, because those publications social media fashioned the social voice for improving health and safety standard in Bangladeshi RMG.

Interviewee added in this context which is “news headlines”:

“If there happened any incident it continues at least one week. After the collapse of Rana Plaza all the daily newspaper, television and online newspaper reported one weeklong. The news was on the first page, newspaper and television highlight it for a week that how the occurrence has happened, how did rescue teamwork. The channels continuously

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focused it even for a month because the rescue work was done for a long time about 20- 22 days.”

After the collapse of Rana Plaza, health and safety issue focus widely than ever before. It does not mean that the issue was not before, but media even general people, government as well as buyers were not much concern with this. Infect, Bangladeshi medias 24 hours live telecast of this tragedy had drawn the attention of world media. Then Bangladeshi media showed workplace situation in full garments industry complained that 80 per cent of RMG's work situation is the same.

These findings suggest that four of the interviewed persons theoretical findings counselled that the general opinion of social media was mostly about “poor working conditions” and that few local textile industries were illegally “subcontracting work”. In general, therefore, it seems that the government and brands who represented it did not attain their “responsibilities”. The duties of them were to maintain the standard of the factories. Form government side, there was a weakness in “monitoring”. All the respondents said the responsible authority had lack of monitoring. Such as BNBC is responsible for the buildings and load calculation. If BNBC gives green signal to RAJUK about the factory building load capacity ok, then RAJUK approved that building or factory. Result in Rana Plaza and it is seen that there was approval for the setting, but they did not do it. Social media also blamed to BGMEA and other authority where they had little monitoring. Although, interviewees give credit to media said due to media pressure Accord and Alliance came in to play.

Overall, Bangladesh's RMG sector represented only low wage levels. Eventually, due to this low labour cost, the brands are operating in Bangladesh, this was another message to all the world. Furthermore, Mikail Shipar, Former Secretary in the Ministry of Labour and Employment has argued against the existing labour act and workplace safety issues. He said that safety at work is still poor compared to the worldwide norm. If Accord and Alliance leave Bangladesh, there is a true fear of safety surveillance. Dr. Moazzem is entitled to create trade unions within and outside the export processing area (EPZs) (“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018b). When employees were asked about health and safety issues first being to appear by social media.

Health and safety issues began first to appear in international media like Al-Jazeera, BBC, CNN and New York Times also print media and NGO’s continuously news. Interviewee 3 reflected that factory and multinational brand do not maintain basic rights:

“I first said when it was recognized by newspapers, consumers and non-governmental organizations. They got a clue they came to Bangladesh and visited the factories interviewed many workers. Some factories have a low level of health and safety standards.”

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The RMG industry had a positive reputation where it will impact, and the buyers will U-turn on that time it was the headline of Rana Plaza.

When employees were asked after the level of news media coverage what was the reactions of local textiles industries after having news post about safety standard. Interviewee 4 added:

“The Incident of building collapse is not new in the world it happened before in many countries, but the incident of Rana Plaza is massive.

BGMEA's vice president of finance Mohammed Nasir, Complimented RMG for factory inspection under accord, Alliance and National Plan of Action. Moreover, when the incident at Rana Plaza happened, nations across the globe were telling consumers not to purchase clothes made in Bangladesh. The buyers have restored their confidence because of many initiatives.

Workplace safety issue Post-Rana Plaza:

Even though the post Rana Plaza situation, many commitments were made by the factory owners, buyers and the government from 2013 onwards (Ferdous, 2015). Considering these facts, multifaceted reform processes are being implemented in the garments sector of Bangladesh. Hence, these issues that are being considered to range from fair wages and proper facilities besides that, standard working condition for workers (CPDBangladesh, 2016). After four years of the Rana Plaza collapse, Accord and Alliance investigated the health and safety compliance for factories in Bangladesh (Barua & Ansary, 2017). Hence, the investigation found that about 52 per cent of factories had been completed with the support of ILO (Mahtab & Sajen, 2017). In addition, there is evidence that 700 to 800 factories were not even included in the national initiative. Furthermore, these factories were mostly small, subcontracting types with lacking investment. Also, if any incident would happen, the execution of this initiative would be blamed for it (Mahtab & Sajen, 2017). At first 100 factories were under the trade union before the collapse, after which around 500 new have been registered. Therefore, the minimum wage was revised making it Taka (Tk) 5,300 from Tk 3,000 in grade 7, which was a good step (Mahtab & Sajen, 2017).

Rana plaza tragedy has been a wake-up call for both Bangladesh's RMG industry and global brands. Because, after the Rana Plaza incident, the government signed a tripartite declaration within ten days (Sazid et al., 2019). Particularly, this agreement is work for structural evaluation of all export-oriented garment factories, rehabilitation of workers who affected by industrial accidents or disabled workers. Thus, another concern pop up that is there enough funds for survivors of Rana Plaza.

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In addition, Bangladesh's government, BGMEA and charitable organizations raise few funds for victims (Saber, 2014). Besides this ILO has also set up a Trust Fund to collect compensation from Rana Plaza retailers with factories. Moreover, British retailer Primark has paid the fund USD 9 million, while the others have paid only USD 8 million. Meanwhile, the “government of Bangladesh is raising TK 12.7 million from public donations” (Saber, 2014).

Investment on structural improvement:

As an interesting finding, safety conditions in the garment industry have improved dramatically since the Rana Plaza disaster reported by international inspection agencies (Mirdha, 2018). For this purpose, the local garment entrepreneurs invested more than USD 1 billion for preventing such tragedies in future. As reported by the three inspection agencies Accord, Alliance and National Initiative mention that safety hazards were categorized into three different gaps concerning structural, fire safety and electric issues (Mirdha, 2018). Rob Wayss, the executive director and acting chief for safety inspectors of the European inspection agency at Accord, reported a dramatic improvement in RMG factory safety of their company after the Rana Plaza collapse. Moreover, Wayss’ aspect regarding safety improvement has made remarkable progress over the past five years. Meanwhile, Accord covered 1,625 supplier factories. Furthermore, Wayss claims that around 1.2 million women and men who earn a living in Alliance factories. Whereas this factory that is structurally sound, free of hazards, equipped with modern electrical systems such as fire doors and sprinklers. It was seen that they installed a sprinkler system or fire drill pump which investment million dollars Besides this 1.5 million worker and security guards received fire safety and emergency evacuation training along with access to a 24-hour helpline (Mirdha, 2018). Rajbhandari was recently interviewed for The Daily Star, likewise, stating similar improvements for the garment industry. On the other hand, yet some RMG factories are yet to go through complete remediation of cultural and practical attitudes towards occupational safety and health (Mirdha, 2018).

Interviewee 1 shared information, then it was seen that they banned 1200 factories after the arrival of Accord and Alliance. Due to the design of the buildings and load calculation of building were not right for those factories. Suppose for the building structure only 8mm rods are used, which is acceptable for four-storied building, but the building owner has made eight-storied building with these rods, which is totally unacceptable. Consequently, the Rana Plaza tragedy had taken place.

After Rana Plaza, there was a depression of Bangladesh garments. Interviewee 4 reflected that Buyers thought about from both sides, in one side financial aspect in another side Corporate Social Responsibilities (CSR) aspect. Building safety, fire safety and electrical safety came from social

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responsibility. Accord and Alliance are built base on those points. Then two points again come that are the financial aspect or CSR aspect.

CSR Issue:

Interviewees were asked whether orders less due to pressure for a factory safety standard. They replied- Yes, less order after Rana Plaza distraction and the brands gave it most important. Moreover, interviewee 2 added CSR point that media highlight to issue of Rana Plaza then CSR point making documentary on workers lifestyle. Then, what is the thinking of the owners about the standard of working condition. Media creating pressure over the buyers, what are they doing about CSR issue, are they conscious. Buyers mark the CSR issue over the requirement of the factory, like:

• Childcare facilities for worker children • Arrangement of meal in the factory • A fair price shop in factory • Health test of girl workers • Point system

A fair price shop concept is that where products are unprofitably sold to the particular factory worker. This concept is practicing in many compliance factories, which could work as one of the positive sides to impress the foreign buyers to make an purchase order to the compliance factories rather than a non-compliance factory. For this reason, they will imagine the working environment is good there. Another point is the health test of women workers are done in the factory under BGMEA. Although, workers are getting this facility after the collapse of Rana Plaza. In comparison, the textile industries are divided into two parts, workplace health and safety before or after the downfall of Rana Plaza. To improve buyers are encouraging the owners as the issues of health and safety. In this case, buyers are doing point system who will take more initiatives that factories will get more marks, those who get more marks he will get more order like there is marking system in H &M, there is a mark on total occupational health and safety, there is another marking in 100 for environmental. A certificate standard has like silver, gold, platinum, silver order for next one year. If gold for next 2 year, if platinum order is confirming for the next five years.

Many factories are doing CSR activities. Some good factories arrange lunch for the workers, food, gifts for the family members, childcare and supermarket for the workers to arrange to buy things at a low price. Furthermore, arranged medical treatment for the worker, this positive news does not come well in media as negative news come in. Interviewee 3 said we could declare to the world that Bangladesh is one of the most safety RMG industry in the world.

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Readymade Garment Sustainability Council (RSC):

On the one hand Alliance has already closed their activities in Bangladesh; on the other hand, there is an announcement that Accord will stop their functions in May 2020. BGMEA built a new organisation named Readymade Sustainability Council (RSC). To be sure, it will work as Accord and Alliance. Eventually, Accord will hand over all activities to RSC in May 2020. Basically, the RSC will be governed by BGMEA, BKMEA and representatives of different brands. Similarly, MNCs thought about finance to ensure the atmosphere of work on RMG. Furthermore, MNCs thought that after China, Bangladesh is the second-largest garments factory in the world. While the above discussion reflects, that Bangladesh is a key market for multinational textile brands. In this situation, they need to monitor this market regularly.

Positive impact on workplace health and safety:

From the above discussions, it becomes clear that worker at the working place need safety. There is negative and positive impact due to the Rana Plaza catastrophe. Now Bangladesh can beat in any country internationally with positive impact within the short period. As per safety aspect, RMG work environment is comparatively better because Bangladeshi RMG invested billion dollars in this sector last 4-5 years.

Interviewee 4 added:

“I think that about safety concern Bangladesh may be in the first or second position in the world in terms of quick improvements. There is changed in our factory due to the pressure of the buyers. Above all social media has risen up these safety issues.”

Meanwhile, Bangladesh's RMG industry is now a role model for the globe (“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018a). According to the ILO Country Office in Dhaka, Officer in charge Gagan Rajbhandari, the Bangladeshi government had now strong monitoring capacity, more budget and staff for compliance. Furthermore, a culture of occupational safety and health was “slowly being built, and garment factories would be safer” (“Five years of Rana Plaza collapse,” 2018b). The next step would be to educate, train and facilitate the factory workers on how to prevent industrial accidents.

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Interviewee 3 added:

“In 2013 after the destruction of Rana Plaza, the RMG industry of Bangladesh has a significant change. There are seven green factories in the world out of first 10 ranked. Which is led certified green factory. After Rana Plaza Bangladesh is known as a role model in the world for safety factory. In the RMG industry, more led certified factory in Bangladesh, which is not even cover by the media as a positive news.”

Interviewee 1 added:

“Due to media pressure, the factories changed overnight. The environment of work is better now. The owners and worker are both aware now.”

If there happens anything, like a problem in the electrical wire of the factory or fire in somewhere a little alarm ring, they will swiftly find out the problem area; this was not the case before, which means that now they are very safety conscious. All the interviewees agreed in one satisfactory point that the last few years there was no massive accident like the Rana Plaza.

Although, no doubt the PPE committee has become stronger after Rana Plaza. From the worker's vote, PPE is held. Therefore, the workers show their demands to the owners. Besides, PPE committee has a monthly meeting with management. PPE should be confirmed in case the building becomes damaged or set on fire. Meanwhile, during the audit period, if an auditor finds that PPE is not used in any factory, they take pictures and send it to the buyers. Finally, the buyers take action against them. Indeed, buyers impose this to the factory for media pressure.

Interviewee 3 mentioned a few points, there should be an audit in monthly on the issue of “health and safety”:

• Where is a mistake made, it should be discovered? • Proper action and audit next month. • The workers must take training on health and safety. • Code of conduct is into liable; every buyer must concern in the issue of safety.

In other words, the negative side of media is that what they have in front of their eyes they focus it, and when new news comes, they forget it. Particularly, The Daily Star covers only how many people surviving did not get compensation, or how many workers wish to come at work. But they

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did not cover who are alive their or are their condition getting worse. The daily star reported that those who are alive among them 51% of workers have no job.

7. Limitations and further research

As though this research has been done based on different news articles, organization websites and publications, although the publications are peer reviewed but the other sources are not, therefore there is a strong chance of those used information to be misinterpreted or exaggerated by the source’s authors. However, there is no easy way to filter the real information; thereupon some used information still under question mark. It was one of the prime goal during this master thesis writing to find those-anomaly and represent the real information as close as possible. Therefore, it would be one of the biggest challenge of this research to chase this shortcoming, which could influence the results of this study. In addition, interviewees were from RMG and brand sourcing office, who actually been through and experiencing the whole situation in real time. Hence, they have guided me to pick out the real information for this research.

On the one hand, the foundation of this research is qualitative, where a qualitative approach has been used to analysis newspaper archive-news and in-depth interviews for empirical findings. On the other hand, it be a would good idea to execute a new study based on quantitative approach; where data based on previous work place health and safety situation as well as the after Rana Plaza impact work place health and safety situation on RMG could be analysed statistically to find better future policies.

Finally, the empirical investigation of this thesis revealed information articles during the investigation period of 2013 and 2019 in Bangladeshi RMG. New regulation and changes were introduced after this period. It would be interesting to have further research based on the recent information to evaluate workplace health and safety concern of the industry owners and the workers. It would be more compulsive to inspect the changes in other industries on the particular territory.

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8. Conclusion

Social media is currently one of the most important means of news and information. Social media is the of fastest-growing segments on the web and so we have seen a huge growth of social media in the last few years. Social media have revolutionized and provided attention to many issues including industry and academia. Social media allows their users to express opinions about the news by sharing, liking and commenting on the post. On the other hand, social media has some weak points; lack of regulation in social media has led to spreading more negative, fraudulent and aggressive news. Most the TV channel live telecasted the Rana Plaza collapse which catches the global attention, which led to demonstration outside the global brand headquarter. Protesters had a placard with saying ‘stop corporate greed’, ‘shame’, ‘blood with a cloth’ so on. After having such pressure from the customer’s end, it is becoming a big challenge for the multinational brand and Bangladeshi RMG sector aiming at improving workplace safety in garment factories.

Workplace safety in the garment industry has always been a big challenge for multinational brands as well as local textiles industries. Thereupon, social media criticised retailers for their inability to ensure safe working conditions in RMG industries of Bangladesh. Therefore, after the Rana Plaza incident, there were compliance and auditing pressures from retailer and human rights organisations. The Rana Plaza tragedy has been a wake-up call for both Bangladesh's RNG industry and global brand, as a result Bangladeshi RMG and government signed with third party audit organization such as Accord, Alliance, Tripartite and upcoming RSC for improving workplace health and safety issues. Safety conditions in the garment industry have improved dramatically since the Rana Plaza disaster by inspection agencies. Due to the safety issues the local factories have invested more than USD1 billion for improving workplace conditions.

It seems that social media created a social voice for workplace safety. Besides, various TV channels and newspapers showing pictures and videos of poor working conditions at RMG. Workplace safety issues were news headlines and television highlights for a week after the incident, Bangladeshi media 24 hours live telecasted this tragedy and rescue activities as well as drew the attention of world media. Furthermore, social media presented the government side, which had a weakness in monitoring compliance audits. Rana Plaza was an unapproved 8 story building with approval for four stories. Social media reported that government should play a role as a guardian. International media thought that Bangladesh textiles' working conditions must be changed; action must be taken for human beings, otherwise, catastrophic events will continue. All the interviewees reported that international brands thought about from both sides financial and CSR aspects. Accord and Alliance are built based on two points: building safety, fire safety and electrical safety came from social responsibility.

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In consider to workplace safety aspect now Bangladesh RMG sector has shown a huge change, therefore the gentle breeze of benefit is already started to flow for lifting off Bangladesh RMG sector in a noticeable position. Local government and textiles factory felt media pressure locally and internationally. Moreover, social media and international media presented it that the government had failed to ensure the security and that brands lost their trust in government. However, after the Rana Plaza tragedy workplace safety conditions that massively change in Bangladeshi RMG industry. Due to media pressure, the environment of work is better now.

Compensation policy is now better than pre-Rana Plaza collapse. All the respondents agree that management pay compensation for injuries or occupational diseases related worker. Before it was paying a very little amount of compensation. The amount of compensation paid from the owner deposit from every letter of credit.

Another important issue in workplace workers need personal safety therefore, every factory has done tremendous improvement in fire safety. Seeing that there is fire training every month, as well as workers, are being trained on evacuation. This fire training is done by the factory and Bangladesh fire service and civil defence. Due to the media pressure, PPE is also improved in RMG, most factories now have progressive PPE committees.

Finally, this thesis has shown that there have been significant changes in the RMG working conditions with social media contributing significantly to this change. However, there is still scope for improvement. Code of conduct should be made more formal. Before joining the workplace, workers should be properly trained and up to date with compliance rules and regulation.

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Appendix

Before the interview:

• Contacting interviewees, explaining the situation and thesis.

• Schedule coordination

• Beginning of the interview • Verbally committing to record • Ensuring that the information given in the interview is handled confidentially. • Provide interviewees with an interview checklist with the key topics.

Interview Questions

Personal Questions: (Part 1)

1. How long have you been working in the factory / company? 2. Who are the major clients of the factory/ company?

Social Media effect (part 2)

1. . How did the general sentiment in social media impact workplace health and safety standard compliance of the Bangladeshi RMG industry after the Rana Plaza catastrophe? 2. When mass media on this topic (Health & Safety Issue) first being to appear? 3. Which media were fastest in generating an interest in the health & safety issue? 4. Which media have shown the greatest interest in the topic? 5. At what point did media interest begin to increase? 6. Have journalist ‘stances on the topic changed’ for example, in terms of their support for local textiles and MNCs, such as M&S, GAP, H&M, or in calling for increased government regulation of corporate behaviour?

7. How does the level or nature of news media coverage affect companies like M&S, GAP, and H&M, i.e. the RMG industry, after such a catastrophic event? 8. What was the reactions of local textiles industries after having news post about health and safety issues? 9. Could you please tell about the local and international media initiatives? 10. Did media pressurise to gov., RMG and MNC.

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11. Does media pressurise to RMG and MNCs? If yes? what are those initiatives after rana plaza. What about initiative from different social organization?

12. How did local RMG industries in Bangladesh react to news posts of varying sentiment from different types of newspaper posts? 13. Do you think MNCs got pressure about health & safety issue after Rana Plaza catastrophe?

14. What happen every anniversary in the Rana Plaza science 2013 to till now? 15. Does media recall the event and give pressure to RMG, MNCs and Gov.?

Wages, working hours, and vacation (part 3)

1. Could you explain the organization of working hours used at the factory before and after the Rana Plaza tragedy? 2. Does social media have any effect for wages, working hours, and so on? Could you explain the wage system of the factory now and before the rana plaza? And What is the average monthly income of the workers?

3. After Rana Plaza catastrophe what about workplace health and safety issues? 4. How this issue gets importance to media and which media was active about this?

Code of conduct auditing (part 4)

1. Do any clients perform social audits inside the factory? 2. If so, could you tell us how such an audit is conducted? (Follow up: How often do social auditors come? What would they check? Do they talk to workers? How does factory management prepare before the social auditors come?) 3. How can workers access the details of the codes of conduct (Accord / Alliance)? 4. Do you think that social audits can help improve factory conditions? 5. Does the factory buy social insurance for its workers? (Follow up: Please specify whether this includes old age, medical, unemployment, and industrial injury insurance)

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Occupational safety and health (OSH) conditions (Part 5) (does social media have effect on this issue?)

1. Could you tell me about the industrial accident situation in the factory now and before the Rana Plaza? 2. Does management pay compensation for injuries or occupational diseases related to work? 3. Have you received any occupational training, either before or during employment? 4. Is there any fire prevention training for new and current workers? 5. Are there fire drills at the workplace and in the dormitories? If so, how often? 6. Does worker know how to get to the fire exits if there is a fire? 7. Is there any formal OSH training for new and current workers? 8. What do you think about working condition before and after Rana Plaza?

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